changing oil question

[SCMP3]

I have decided to change my oil on wendsday when i change the oil return line o-ring and gasket. my questions are these. what oil would you recomend? and how many quarts do i put in? is there more needed for the turbo? sorry for the newb questions, my first turbo car. thanks

[BOOSTR]

I've always used 10W30 synthetic. Brand really does not matter. Purolator Pure One filter PL14612.
3.7 quarts is the oil capacity. PS, you can change the oil and replace the o-ring/gasket at the same time. Oil will not leak out of the turbo or block where the drain line goes after the car has been sitting.

[SCMP3]

is there any danger to switch over to synthetic with higher miles? I was told it can mess with your lifters and etc. sorry for the newb questions just dont wanna mess up my motor. And for reference my car has 133000 miles

[Ricktalife]

if the guy before you didn't use synthetic he's an idiot. i used 5w30 synthetic since that's what it stated in the manual. i think they also mentioned 10w30 as boostr said he used.

[greasemonkey524]

I really don't think switching to synthetic should be a problem. I used a Fram Extended Guard filter (XG 7317, a little bigger than stock) and was able to use a full 4qts. instead of the 3.7 qts.

[SCMP3]

well how would i tell if he did or didn't use synthetic? and i should be OK to switch over which brand would you guys recommend?

[SCMP3]

double post

[theEZV]

fiy you dont have to use synthetic on these cars.

[kamon8404]

I use castrol 10w30 full synthetic in the summer and 5w30 in the winter. With a purolator pure one filter. I have never had any issue. I change it every 3-5k miles (i aim for 3k but sometimes run a little over and will never go above 5k). I also use all 4 qts.

[BOOSTR]

There really is no way to tell short of records. But as stated you do not have to use synthetic and the cars came filled with dino oil. Given your high miles I would stick with dino oil. Some engines develop leaks when switching to synthetic if they have previously rolled those high miles on dino oil. Either oil type will help you roll many miles without issue as long as you change your pcv, air filter, oil filter, oil and coolant as scheduled. Neglect and abuse is what kills engines, not synthetic vs dino.

[808MP5]

use mobile1 5w-30
And
K&N 1004 oil filter

[jamesk]

i switched over to mobil 1 with 92,000 miles. you should be fine.

[Ricktalife]

fiy you dont have to use synthetic on these cars.

rly?

[MrDiggler]

I've only run a high grade synthetic for the last 98k miles. First it was Redline, then when it wasn't carried around here anymore I started using Royal Purple. My preference was for the Redline. I run 10w30.

[theEZV]

the manual recommends regular dino oil. i dont see the need for synthetic

[Ricktalife]

what's the difference between 5w30 and 10w30? is it the temperature range?

[23dude]

am i the only one who uses Royal Purple?LOL

[Ricktalife]

i used mobil 1, but i just got the car so it might have had royal purple before who knows.

[BOOSTR]

New Oil Protects High-Mileage Engines

"Afraid to use synthetic motor oil in your high-mileage engine? ExxonMobil has news for you. Its just-introduced Mobil 1 High Mileage synthetic motor oil is specifically engineered for the special needs of higher mileage cars.
"As your engine ages, seals deteriorate, oil burn-off increases and sludge can build up, which can all result in a decrease in engine performance and, ultimately, reduce engine life," said Tom Olszewski, automotive technical advisor, ExxonMobil Lubricants and Specialties. "Mobil 1 High Mileage addresses the common concerns of the older car."
Mobil 1 High Mileage is a fully synthetic formula featuring SuperSyn, an extra-high viscosity synthetic fluid. It is designed especially for engines in which conventional oil has been used, and it has been tailored for vehicles that have endured severe service, extended oil drains, poor maintenance and multiple owners. (Hey, that sounds just like our first wife.)
Drivers can switch to Mobil 1 High Mileage at any time. It is fully compatible with engine seals and conventional oils, and it is available in two viscosities: 10W-30 and 10W-40. Its higher viscosity formula helps reduce oil burn-off, while the extra anti-wear additive protects critical engine parts and extends engine life."

[SCMP3]

so i guess ill pick up mobil1 high milage full synthetic then.

[SCMP3]

i picked up 4 quarts of Mobil1 high milage full synthetic today along with a Fram Tough gaurd Oil filter.The number on the filter is TG6607. I could not find thae other filter mintioned earlier. so how would one measure .7 Quarts? Its got Oz And ml on the side for measurement

[BOOSTR]

.70 x 32 = 22.4 ozs
After you've added 3 full quarts, just add half of the 4th quart, allow the oil to settle and check the mark on the dipstick. Add a little more if needed to reach the correct level. Its not like you are going to drain all of the oil out so adding 22.4 ozs may not be necessary.

No biggie on the Fram filter I've used that one when I couldn't find the purolator and have used them on my other cars without issue. Yes there is some dickwad with a website bashing fram filters but a complete teardown of my engines in the past with 200K miles showed nothing but normal bearing wear. So I say f-him and his bullshit.

[SCMP3]

ok cool i will be changing the oil and the Return line o-ring later today since the idiot at the mazda dealer didnt order the gasket for the return line to the block like he said he did.