P0340 code, need advice

[jesus_man]

I was headed down the highway and accelerating normally in 5th gear when I lost all power and coasted to a stop. The car cranks, but no fire. I don't see anything loose or burnt in the engine compartment. I get some help, load it on the trailer and have Autozone read the codes.
P0340 Cam sensor Circuit
And P0037 O2 sensor (which I replaced 6 months ago)

Since I know the car will run with a bad o2, I am not worrying about that until I get it running again as I suspect that code will go away.

Anyway, the car has been running fine, no indication of issues, so this was a surprise. I had this happen in a subaru and it was the timing belt. Thank God it was a non-interference engine.

Anyway, before I start replacing parts, anyone know what ohms should read on a good CPS? Anyone care to check for me?? Would it help to measure voltage with the key on as well?

It all makes sense if the sensor or wiring was bad and there were no loud noises when it died, so I am nearly certain the timing belt is ok. Should be, only has 25k on it.

Thanks for the help! I will start pricing the CPS thru the vendors.

J.D.

camshaft position sensor

[jesus_man]

Found the problem. I found a thread on here that said the cam was visible from the oil filler cap, so I pulled the cap, had my wife crank the car and teh cam was not spinning. Took that valve cover off, the top timining belt cover to find the ribs on the belt were separating from the outer band. So I found my problem, just not looking forward to fixing it because it's so tight in there and a royal pain to get in there.

How do I check the tensioner to make sure it's good? Anything else I should look at while I am in there? Recommendations on timing belt Manufacturer?

Thanks!

J.D.

[DIYSpeed#1193]

I have replaced the old tensioners on cars before and they tend not to go "bad" but if it isn't too expensive of a part I would replace it being that it is spring loaded and a new one might prevent the new T-belt from self destruction...I know I hate doing a job over again prematurely because I got lazy or cheap..... I thought the T-belts were good for 100k miles...I am only creeping past 66k and so far so good... I would suggest turning the crank pulley by hand a few times over after the new install to make sure nothing is going to hit or rub and that you can hear compression.....it is easier to stop turning by hand than letting go of the key after a loud noise heheh..better safe than sorry...

[jesus_man]

Thanks, I'll check into the price and hopefully tonight check into the condition of the tensioner.

I hate doing things twice as well and I replaced the t-belt 25k ago for preventive maintenance reasons. But I think I bought it at Autozone, so cutting corners may have cost me.

J.D.