best rotors and pads for the MSP

[MS3_KIDD]

whats everybody upgrading too?

im really leaning toward centric's slotted rotors at the moment
any one wave any feed back on these or know of other options?

oh yeah i for got to mention myin are pretty much shot right now
...i brought it in the shop today at school to have clutch pedal
adjusted by the manual trans class and the brake class in the
bay over notices my rotors are about on their last legs

so i need some feed back asap

[Rush]

I have Rotora slotted rotors and PosiQuiet ceramic brake pads.

I love 'em.

[nazgul350r]

I have EBC dimpled and slotted rotors with their geenstuff.

[StealthWyvern]

I have Rotora slotted rotors and PosiQuiet ceramic brake pads.

I love 'em.

hm... i hated the posi quiets on my p5... I think the braking suffered due to those pads with slotted rotors.

[SleepyMSP]

I have Rotora slotted rotors and PosiQuiet ceramic brake pads.

I love 'em.

Thats close to the setup i'm going to go with...Rotora slotted w/ hawk pads

[MSPM1cheLe]

if youre looking to buy cross drilled rotors for performance reasons. Dont. These rotors dont do anything for performance and its all mostly for looks. Cross Drilled rotors were made for period-correct brake pads that release gasses when hot, they dont improve performance. Cross drilled rotors were invented when brake pad compounds released gases when they were hot (called outgassing), and the gas pressure actually pushed the pad away from the rotor surface. The cross drilling allowed a passage for the gas to escape.

Also, even worse than cast cross-drilled rotors, if they are actually DRILLED the rotors are more prone to cracks.

Even slotted rotors (grooved or dimpled rotors) make brake pads less likely to glaze under high heat. But even these rotors are more for marketing than performance. They look cool, but another annoying fact is that the grooves and dimples work like a cheese grater on your pads, wering them more quickly than a smooth surface rotor. If your rotors do glaze over its probably your brake pad compund; just get a more aggresive brake pad compund. I use EBC yellowstuf pads with my stock rotors. Its perfect for daily driving and a bit of autocross and track days. But yellowstuf is for pure track, if your running ont he street greenstuf should be fine or even redstuf.


hope this helped, not trying to be negative, just hoping to help you decide waht you want :]

[BOOSTR]

Replaced my oem rotors/pads with Centric e-coated rotors(Tri-point) and Satisfied Pro Ceramic pads(partsamerica).

For me brakes cannot make noise, produce no noticeable dust and off course stop well. So far this combo delivers on all three concerns.

[SleepyMSP]

if youre looking to buy cross drilled rotors for performance reasons. Dont. These rotors dont do anything for performance and its all mostly for looks. Cross Drilled rotors were made for period-correct brake pads that release gasses when hot, they dont improve performance. Cross drilled rotors were invented when brake pad compounds released gases when they were hot (called outgassing), and the gas pressure actually pushed the pad away from the rotor surface. The cross drilling allowed a passage for the gas to escape.

Also, even worse than cast cross-drilled rotors, if they are actually DRILLED the rotors are more prone to cracks.

Even slotted rotors (grooved or dimpled rotors) make brake pads less likely to glaze under high heat. But even these rotors are more for marketing than performance. They look cool, but another annoying fact is that the grooves and dimples work like a cheese grater on your pads, wering them more quickly than a smooth surface rotor. If your rotors do glaze over its probably your brake pad compund; just get a more aggresive brake pad compund. I use EBC yellowstuf pads with my stock rotors. Its perfect for daily driving and a bit of autocross and track days. But yellowstuf is for pure track, if your running ont he street greenstuf should be fine or even redstuf.


hope this helped, not trying to be negative, just hoping to help you decide waht you want :]

that's some good info, not to say I don't believe you but I'm going to see if I can find some more material on this...subject to see if there really is a difference in performance between slotted and blank

[MSP #167]

also, most every shop will not cut slotted/drilled rotors if they become warped and need to be resurfaced.

You will need to replace them.

[MS3_KIDD]

i ordered centric's slotted rotors from PG
cant wait till they come in

thanks for all the feed back guys

[MrDiggler]

I ditched my drilled rotors and went back with the stockers. The drilled rotors made noise that drove me nuts sometimes, and they warped up on me pretty badly and pretty quickly vs. stock rotors. I think my Carbotech pads are a little aggressive for street use as well. They seem to need to come up to temp before they bite really well. Once they're hot, the bite is insane. But, they produce a ton of dust (forget keeping your front wheels clean for more than a day) and they've grooved the hell out of one of my rotors.

[MSPM1cheLe]

that's some good info, not to say I don't believe you but I'm going to see if I can find some more material on this...subject to see if there really is a difference in performance between slotted and blank

let me know what you find, i'd like to hear the contrary, bc i know the points i made are kind of disappointing, but from what i know are true.

[2.0t03speed]

sub

[rmak_14]

does anyone know if the hawk HPS pads for the rears are actually RX-7 pads? thats what i get when i search the part number from the PG site. but when i go onto hawk's site it has a different part number..says its for the regular protege. any one have the part number i need for the rears?

[Perro del Sol]

Check out this link and you all can decide for yourselves about rotors, pads, etc.

http://www.raceshopper.com/tech.shtml#slotted_rotors

[StealthWyvern]

I ditched my drilled rotors and went back with the stockers. The drilled rotors made noise that drove me nuts sometimes, and they warped up on me pretty badly and pretty quickly vs. stock rotors. I think my Carbotech pads are a little aggressive for street use as well. They seem to need to come up to temp before they bite really well. Once they're hot, the bite is insane. But, they produce a ton of dust (forget keeping your front wheels clean for more than a day) and they've grooved the hell out of one of my rotors.

that noise is normal. I have driven 3 different cars with 3 different brand of cross drilled rotors and its normal to sound lik a locas(sp?) going down the road. lol I think your pads killed your rotors.



let me know what you find, i'd like to hear the contrary, bc i know the points i made are kind of disappointing, but from what i know are true.

When I had installed the rotorworks(ebay screen name) rotors and posi quite pads on my old p5. I beleave braking suffered durign normal everyday driving conditions however in the rain I think they braked better. However I dont know if that was due to the pads or rotors itself.

I also didn't really notice much difference in brake pad wear as I put over 20k on that setup and still had plenty of pad life left.

You do have a good point in not being able to turn the rotors. However you can only turn normal rotors once and them still be within spec. Also with most cars you can get new rotors for for a few bucks mroe vs getting then turned. Obviously it depends on the shop charges....

[MS3_KIDD]

Check out this link and you all can decide for yourselves about rotors, pads, etc.

http://www.raceshopper.com/tech.shtml#slotted_rotors

this was some good reading (thumb)

[MSPM1cheLe]

this was some good reading (thumb)

;) like i said

[MS3_KIDD]

i actually think iv been on that page b4 too and read all of that back when i was upgrading my brake's on my first gen rx-7

[livelyjay]

Just get blank rotors. I bought some Wearever rotors from Autozone and they work fine for normal driving conditions. I paired them with EBC redstuff pads. The only issue is autocross. The Wearever rotors I don't think were heat treated, because they turned blue after an event last month. The front left now has a small hair line crack in the surface.

If you want good blanks, go with Centric. I love EBC pads but they are expensive and I likely won't be buying them again. Next I'm going to try Hawk pads.

[zuku26]

I'm running magnum Cross drilled with Hawk HPS pads. In all reallity They stop much better then the stockers I had on, But the stockers were shot!! I actually went to a empty parking lot and test before and after and I stopped quite a bit shorter, with the new set up. I only have about 4K on this set-up so only time will tell how long it last, but so far so good.

[MS3_KIDD]

so i got my rotors today
...what else should i be changing while im down there along the line of bearings

[livelyjay]

If the bearings aren't making noise, don't bother with them. Check the brake lines for rubbing spots and cracks. If you see anything that looks like it might compromise the line replace it. Check the ball joint boot, CV boot, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings.

[MS3_KIDD]

Yeah that's what I was thinking thanks

[69RMSP]

I have the Rotora slotted rotors and PosiQuiet ceramic pads like Rush and StealthWyvern and I think I lost breaking performance. Slotted rotors are good because u don’t lose breaking surface like cross drilled and they clean/ keep the surface of the bad even.

My suggestion is to get the 626 rotors and a nice pad, cheap and effective.

[KyRaceFan]

Ive been using EBC green pads front/rear and have had great pad life, little noise, and greater than stock stopping power and response.

I'm going to be doing rotors pretty soon as the stocks rotors now have 64k and are starting to wear out now.

[Nextruss]

stoptech slotted rotors, hawk hps pads, and corksport stainless lines, all going on end of this week!

[LASERBLUE135]

Well I FINALLY am going to need brakes sometime soonish. At 37k miles my front brakes where shot so I picked up a set of very spendy rotorworks cross drilled& slotted rotors and Axis metal masters pads for the front.

So that's 4 rotors and 2 pads (just the front pads), I left the rear stock pads there.

Today I'm at 107,000 miles and the rear stock pads are finally giving in!!! The fronts have about 1/2 life left, so this was a GREAT SETUP! I've been to a track day (road course) and I drive the heck out of these things and they lasted forever. Sadly I don't know if they make them anymore. So now I'm up for debate as to what to get as a replacement. i just wanted to post and say that I had ZERO problems with my drilled/slotted rotors for many many many miles. That's 70k miles and 3 and a half years.

[StealthWyvern]

Well I FINALLY am going to need brakes sometime soonish. At 37k miles my front brakes where shot so I picked up a set of very spendy rotorworks cross drilled& slotted rotors and Axis metal masters pads for the front.

So that's 4 rotors and 2 pads (just the front pads), I left the rear stock pads there.

Today I'm at 107,000 miles and the rear stock pads are finally giving in!!! The fronts have about 1/2 life left, so this was a GREAT SETUP! I've been to a track day (road course) and I drive the heck out of these things and they lasted forever. Sadly I don't know if they make them anymore. So now I'm up for debate as to what to get as a replacement. i just wanted to post and say that I had ZERO problems with my drilled/slotted rotors for many many many miles. That's 70k miles and 3 and a half years.




Spendy? I paid 238.96 for drilled/slotted rotors and pads for all four corners shipped. Thats rougly 60 bucks per corner...

[LASERBLUE135]

Spendy? I paid 238.96 for drilled/slotted rotors and pads for all four corners shipped. Thats rougly 60 bucks per corner...

WHERE! It was nearly 4 years ago, but I know I paid over $400 for 4 rotors and 2 sets pads. def worth it, but I don't think the company exists anymore. I'm going to be shopping new rotors/pads.