another problem.... bad bogging under boost

[dinicola999]

drove on vacation, 4hour trip to NJ, car ran fine on the way down, after few days of not driving, car would start up fine, no rough idle, soon as i put my foot down and hit about 4-5 PSI car would bog out and buck, i just drove it back home 4 hours and it would run great untill it was under heavy boost, it would just not go, previous owner had Unichp Installed and had car tuned, i can swich the car between 2 different maps, ive tried both and neither seem to help, i just replaced valve cover gasket, temp censor, and the plugs are a month old, the idle vac pressure is around 22-23, the car has 2 or 3 hairline cracks in header (new one on the way) and she still burns a little oil (blue out the tail pipe) waiting to get my crank vents installed, just tryin to make this car run smooth...

[tacio25]

had the same problem....never even thought that it could be my plugs and wires. just replaced all plugs and wires and car runs PERFECT!!!! But of course....just my opinion.

[franciscoescn]

What kind of plugs did you get and what you gap them to.

[dinicola999]

what i did was i went to Advanced Auto and i bought NGK plugs the gap was pre-set i asked them if i had to gap the plugs and they told me not to touch them, but how could it be the plugs if the car has been running fine for a month or so on the new plugs

[dstmsp03]

if you are running to rich.. it could foul them out..

[gadget]

if you are running to rich.. it could foul them out..

(iagree)

I'd read the plugs. Any engine light yet?

[lil_red_wagon]

could also be a boost leak after the MAF.

[gadget]

could also be a boost leak after the MAF.

interesting thought... dinicola, has your MAF been relocated or is it still in the intake pipe before the compressor?

[dinicola999]

my mass air flow is right after my air filter, i also have 3 codes
P0131-O2 sensor 1
P0140-O2 sensor 2
P0171-system too lean
my buddy also suggested that there may have been an elevation change between here and right next to the coast in NJ, so my air/fuel may have been all messed up

[Spooler]

My car does exactly the same, good idle, no apparent issue until boost condition. My car is stock except for a K&N drop in air filter (yeah.....it is stock), I am afraid the oil from the K&N has fouled part of the MAF sensor (found some on the edge of the MAF). I will try cleaning my MAF tonight and share the results.

[Spooler]

Cleaned my MAF (really easy stuff, takes 10 minutes). Car seems to pull more. I need to test it under normal condition (traffic, heat, etc) and I'll be able to tell if this solve the bogging problem. But you should do it anyway, costs like $8 and it's done in no time

[dinicola999]

doin it today, heres a pic of location of my MAF

[bradboyd80]

drove on vacation, 4hour trip to NJ, car ran fine on the way down, after few days of not driving, car would start up fine, no rough idle, soon as i put my foot down and hit about 4-5 PSI car would bog out and buck, i just drove it back home 4 hours and it would run great untill it was under heavy boost, it would just not go, previous owner had Unichp Installed and had car tuned, i can swich the car between 2 different maps, ive tried both and neither seem to help, i just replaced valve cover gasket, temp censor, and the plugs are a month old, the idle vac pressure is around 22-23, the car has 2 or 3 hairline cracks in header (new one on the way) and she still burns a little oil (blue out the tail pipe) waiting to get my crank vents installed, just tryin to make this car run smooth...

My car is doing the same thing, but no CEL. I had a CEL previously and codes revealed several problems with MAF. Used some MAF cleaner and CEL went away....but not the problem. Still bogging and bucking under full boost. I figured maybe it was a leak, but its holding boost just fine. Then figured maybe something with the coils, wires or plugs, but the car idles fine all the time; whether its a cold start, an hour of driving, or all day of stop and go driving. So makes me think its gotta be something else. I took the A/F gauge out because it was some cheapo and wasn't working anyway. I've checked my vacuum lines and they look fine, plus its reading between 18-20 at idle which from what I've read is good right? I'm at a loss. Any ideas what it could be?

[dukemoreau]

my car is also Bogging like ^^^^^. i checked the Code this weekend. got P0171-Bank 1 too lean.
i cleared it out, but it came back......
BTW, the car is BONE stock with 44k on it. (the Block, head and clutch have 11k on them)<<<<all replaced under warranty.

[tacio25]

my car is also Bogging like ^^^^^. i checked the Code this weekend. got P0171-Bank 1 too lean.
i cleared it out, but it came back......
BTW, the car is BONE stock with 44k on it. (the Block, head and clutch have 11k on them)<<<<all replaced under warranty.

Seriously guys....I had the same EXACT problem for miles!!! car ran great at normal throttle, idled perfect...held boost...but under boost bogged bad!!! Cleaned the MAF...no CEL...changed my wires and plugs out and car runs like brand new!!! Went NGK's site and bought both wires and plugs!!

[garym0510]

I had this same problem bought a new MAF still didnt fix the problem but it was in the winter months ive found out that our cars just cant handle boost in the cold the air is too cold for the sensor or something crazy but as soon as it warmed up outside my car ran fine

[dukemoreau]

Seriously guys....I had the same EXACT problem for miles!!! car ran great at normal throttle, idled perfect...held boost...but under boost bogged bad!!! Cleaned the MAF...no CEL...changed my wires and plugs out and car runs like brand new!!! Went NGK's site and bought both wires and plugs!!

have not had the time to do that yet.......

did you also have a Cel code??
i have the P0107 lean bank 1 cel

[bradboyd80]

I've been told now that even with good idle, one of the coils or wires could be on the way out, or just misfiring under boost. Ordered new coils and wires, so I'll let you guys know what happens. If its not that, then I'm thinking maybe my MAF is going bad and not reading the correct mixture and leaning it out.

[bradboyd80]

I had this same problem bought a new MAF still didnt fix the problem but it was in the winter months ive found out that our cars just cant handle boost in the cold the air is too cold for the sensor or something crazy but as soon as it warmed up outside my car ran fine

Well I guess lucky for me, I'm in Tampa, FL so I don't have to worry about the cold air. But anyway, I just put in the new coils and wow...HUGE difference. So if you're still having this problem, try replacing the coils. And they aren't too expensive either. I paid $40 at autozone for both.

[tacio25]

awesome!!!!

[dukemoreau]

have not had the time to do that yet.......

did you also have a Cel code??
i have the P0107 lean bank 1 cel

car is in the shop right now. still under warranty. turns out it was a bad stock WGA......
should have it back today.....

[dukemoreau]

just got the car back. they replaced the WGA and the charge pipe to the SMIC. total was $1256.58. i had a rental car for the week. mazda6. my total bill was $48. cover under the warranty. the car runs alot better now. no more cel code and NO MORE bogging.

[tacio25]

really?!?!?! That much for just those 2 items??? How much of that was labor???

[bradboyd80]

I think that's my problem now too. My car started bogging again. Apparently replacing the ignition parts just hid the problem. I still have bogging, and now have oil in my radiator to go along with it.

[dukemoreau]

really?!?!?! That much for just those 2 items??? How much of that was labor???

not sure

like 3xx i think

[Metallic36]

Bump.. any update on the cause of the bogging? Mine seems to die when I attempt boost at 4000 rpms, it just dies, doesn't go into boost. Checked my ic pipes and it's fine.. wondering about the chance of coils/wires.

[dinicola999]

mine stopped bogging, i replaced an O2 sensor and my WGA, but now im on a new issue, my car is as lean as it gets, and ive got a P2006 intake mani runner stuck closed....i love CEL's

[cougar10agREDUX]

what i did was i went to Advanced Auto and i bought NGK plugs the gap was pre-set i asked them if i had to gap the plugs and they told me not to touch them, but how could it be the plugs if the car has been running fine for a month or so on the new plugs

the gap advanced auto has in their computers is wrong for the mazdaspeed. they have it at the NA FS-DE spec, around .040-.044. mazdaspeed is .028-.030 I THINK. if the gap is too big there is a possibility of blowing the spark out causing a misfire

[dinicola999]

the gap advanced auto has in their computers is wrong for the mazdaspeed. they have it at the NA FS-DE spec, around .040-.044. mazdaspeed is .028-.030 I THINK. if the gap is too big there is a possibility of blowing the spark out causing a misfire

i did some research and found out that i bought plugs for stock boost the ngk zfr6f-11, i boost around 9-10 so im getting ngk zfr7f-11 they are a step colder and hopefully help my bogging issue, i guess the gap is supposed to be .28-.30

[cougar10agREDUX]

the only FSM on my computer is a 2002. my 2003 paperback is at home. the 2002 states for NGK, 1.0-1.1mm (.040-.043in) obviously for the non mazdaspeed. for the mazdaspeed i can't tell you exact, but i remember seeing it around what i stated. following what the non turbo is, i wouldn't go any tighter than .028in and no bigger than .031in. someone correct me if i'm wrong.

i forget what NGK plugs i'm running but they are a 6 heat range. i'm leaving them in there for now, but prolly gonna buy a 7 heat range pretty soon. one reason i havn't is cuz i'm going pretty rich at times and i don't want to foul the plugs. also i discovered while looking at some freezeframe data on a DTC using my scan tool, the non-mazdaspeed ECU has ignition timing set at around 12 degrees advance in boost.... i haven't heard any detonation so i don't think the ECU is pickin any up and pulling that much timing because if it is i should have heard it. although when my turbo spools i can't hear anything anyway.