Wheel Hop Problems!!!

[GullyBoy21]

I know that the mazdaspeed 3 suffers from wheel hop problems, but is it that bad? It feels like something is going to break its banging so hard. I think i've made it do it like 6 times in my one year with this car, b/c it dosn't feel right. I dont have the After market Rear Motor Mount yet. I dont have a clue if its normarl for this car to have soo much force as it hops and hits the ground. Can anyone let me know?:confused:

[Oldcabin]

Get the mount. It will help.

[RXMmazdaspeed]

motor mount eliminated the wheel hops completely for me.

[GullyBoy21]

Cool Which Rear motor mount did you get? Can anyone tell me if its normarl for this car to have soo much force as it hops and hits the ground? thank you guys for you time(rtfm)

[chacon101]

Yes, it's normal for cars with a lot of power. I have heard of road tests with Porsches that had the same issue.

[GullyBoy21]

Which rear motor mount should i get?

[mckraut]

I'm pretty happy with my Corksport motor mount inserts. $35 and 20 minutes of your time and you have less wheel hop and only slightly more noticeable vibrations, but not enough that things will start to rattle too badly on you.

[chacon101]

+1 I just got my CorkSport mount inserts installed as well and I think they are a nice improvement.

[GullyBoy21]

You think Inserts are better than a better rear motor mount? and are they inserts only for the rear motor mount, or all?

[chacon101]

It depends on what you are willing to live with. I wanted less engine movement while not having a lot of vibes in the car. So the inserts were a good compromise for me.

The inserts are just for the rear engine mount at the bottom.

[MS3077]

I have the SU MM and the vibrations are next to nothing. The improvements are astronomical, well worth $120-$140.

[guy_incognito]

How much performance advantage will the SU or TRZ poly give over the CS inserts? Do they justify the extra cost?

I want to greatly eliminate wheel hop and improve traction, but like most, want vibrations to be next to nothing. Having a hard time deciding which route to go.

[MS3077]

I've heard of people breaking the stock rear mm. This is one reason I went with a full mm upgrade

[AD07]

Ive got the TRZ poly , plus also running the Cobb springs. Helps alot, but have got the odd hop on spirited driving.

[Bravnik]

Dogbone Poly here. Love it. Get some vibes at idle and also at low RPM on the Highway but it's not bad.

[GullyBoy21]

Yeah i've been thinking about the DogBone Poly rear motor mount. I love that Sig lol

[fructus]

I've tried TRZ Poly, SU, and epoxied stock mount which probably would equal CS inserts. TRZ by far is the most vibrating mount. Unbroken SU mount gives produces less vibrations than broken in TRZ mount. Epoxied stock mount is not a big improvement over stock, though I must say that I tried this option after I drove with TRZ mount for a few hundred miles. I would say that SU mount perhaps is the most optimal choice.

[chacon101]

WHAT?

Sorry, I was too busy staring at your.....nevermind.

[1shark1]

WHAT?

Sorry, I was too busy staring at your.....nevermind.


^ i agree. appropriate avatar especially when we're talking about "DogBone Poly rear motor mount"

[chacon101]

lol! :)

[chacon101]

^ i agree. appropriate avatar especially when we're talking about "DogBone Poly rear motor mount"

Sounds like a....vibrator

[clos561]

I know that the mazdaspeed 3 suffers from wheel hop problems, but is it that bad? It feels like something is going to break its banging so hard. I think i've made it do it like 6 times in my one year with this car, b/c it dosn't feel right. I dont have the After market Rear Motor Mount yet. I dont have a clue if its normarl for this car to have soo much force as it hops and hits the ground. Can anyone let me know?:confused:

delrin trz motor mount

[chacon101]

I don't know if it's just me or whatever but I never get any wheel hop. I maybe did once when I first got the car but otherwise, I just never get it. I installed the mount inserts anyways for a more positive feel but how are you guys getting wheel hop to happen?

When I launch hard, I am keeping the level adhesion maxed out on the tires or just a hair past it by controlling gas pedal position. Are you guys just dropping the clutch or something?

[Supermex]

I was about to say that a lot of it has to do with the driver,

[MS3077]

Wheel hop has a lot to do with dropping the clutch at too high of a RPM.

280ft/tq is a lot of torque for this small car. You go faster if you just slip it at around 2000-2500rpms. I nailed a 2.07 60ft like this on current set-up with street tires. Not trying to brag just offering some advice..

[Sacrilicious]

how willing are you to deal with extra vibrations? once you answer that question, we can give you the answer you need.

[MS3077]

I think all the talk about "extra vibrations" is over-stated. I've have the SU MM and I don't even notice vibrations unless I really concentrate on it. Even then they are minimal and shouldn't be an issue with most people.

[clos561]

I don't know if it's just me or whatever but I never get any wheel hop. I maybe did once when I first got the car but otherwise, I just never get it. I installed the mount inserts anyways for a more positive feel but how are you guys getting wheel hop to happen?

When I launch hard, I am keeping the level adhesion maxed out on the tires or just a hair past it by controlling gas pedal position. Are you guys just dropping the clutch or something?

start from 0 do 1-3 correctly on the stock moutn and u will wheel hop the shit out of this car....turn your traction off too

[Sacrilicious]

I think all the talk about "extra vibrations" is over-stated. I've have the SU MM and I don't even notice vibrations unless I really concentrate on it. Even then they are minimal and shouldn't be an issue with most people.

not really. i've seen both sides of the fence for extended periods (2 months on CS inserts and a few months on the SU MM), and it's definitely noticeable at idle. the easiest metric for me is when i idle with the AC on at a stoplight: i can visibly see my GPS unit (which sits on a dash mount) vibrating when i'm using the SU MM. it's not bad enough that i feel like i'm driving some kind of dump truck, obviously, but the point is that it really depends on the driver's personal tastes. if you're all about power with refinement, don't get the TRZ mount. what you get really depends on what you value the most.

[MS3077]

not really. i've seen both sides of the fence for extended periods (2 months on CS inserts and a few months on the SU MM), and it's definitely noticeable at idle. the easiest metric for me is when i idle with the AC on at a stoplight: i can visibly see my GPS unit (which sits on a dash mount) vibrating when i'm using the SU MM. it's not bad enough that i feel like i'm driving some kind of dump truck, obviously, but the point is that it really depends on the driver's personal tastes. if you're all about power with refinement, don't get the TRZ mount. what you get really depends on what you value the most.

Okay buddy, obviously you aren't "most people" thanks for pointing that out!

No offense implied but if the vibrations from a SU MM cause you do get upset or something then you might want to check your gender (My opinion)
My point in my pervious statement is that the vibrations are so minor as to not be of worry to most people. If you are an extremely anal person then anything will bother you.

[Sacrilicious]

Okay buddy, obviously you aren't "most people" thanks for pointing that out!

dude, "most people" don't come on forums like we do. "most people" just buy their MS3 and keep it stock. i'm willing to bet that you would be surprised how much "most people" actually do care about the added vibrations from the mount...

[Sacrilicious]

Okay buddy, obviously you aren't "most people" thanks for pointing that out!

No offense implied but if the vibrations from a SU MM cause you do get upset or something then you might want to check your gender (My opinion)
My point in my pervious statement is that the vibrations are so minor as to not be of worry to most people. If you are an extremely anal person then anything will bother you.

if i were upset enough to do something about it, i would have taken my SU MM off long ago. this whole point of my post is that it all depends on the driver, and that is why i asked him in my first post "what do you want?".

[MS3077]

if i were upset enough to do something about it, i would have taken my SU MM off long ago. this whole point of my post is that it all depends on the driver, and that is why i asked him in my first post "what do you want?".

Okay and all I pointed out is that the vibrations that result from the SU MM or so minor that it really isn't anything to worry about unless you are extremely anal. What is your point sir?

*Off topic* Anybody here anything on the Cobb AP release??

[camrycev6]

I don't have issues with with wheel hop or vibrations. I am all stock except for the MS CAI. I usually don't get on it hard until 2nd or 3rd though.

[Sacrilicious]

Okay and all I pointed out is that the vibrations that result from the SU MM or so minor that it really isn't anything to worry about unless you are extremely anal. What is your point sir?

my point is that your "so minor" and "extremely anal" are completely subjective. you're a modder, so you're obviously willing to make comfort sacrifices. this guy only has a CAI + tints, so the verdict is still out on whether he's willing to put up with added vibrations. our car is marketed as refined performance. hell, every time someone compares us to a SRT4, the very first argument for us is: well, the srt4 may be faster, but the ms3 is so much more refined. shaking the car enough to visibly vibrate a nav unit is going to matter to people who value the "refinement" of our cars.

[Sacrilicious]

the AP is releasing this week or next, and Josh@Cobb posted this initial dyno on the other forums:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d32/iwannaratrod/InitialMS3Results.jpg

here's his notes for it:

"This dyno graph has been generated on our AWD Chassis dyno while running the car in AWD mode. We must do this so the traction control system does not take over and re-tune the car. We have spent extensive time trying to smooth out the throttle control, boost control, and torque control systems so this car is more enjoyable to drive. This makes the car easier to drive at part throttle conditions, allows for much smoother part throttle control, and the vehicle acts less like an on/off switch. By doing this we have significantly increased the gas mileage of the vehicle as well with our Stage1 and Stage2 calibrations.

The peak power numbers for these graphs are as follows:
Stock = 247 ft. lb. TQ / 212 WHP
Stage1 + SF = 267 ft. lb. TQ / 222 WHP (20 WTQ, +10WHP)
Stage2 + SF Intake = 279 ft. lb. TQ / 232 WHP” (32WTQ, +20 WHP)"

keep in mind that this was also run on 91 octane gasoline, so once they turn out a 93 octane map + inertial dyno at sea level (cobb's shop is at like 4000ft), it should show some pretty noticeable gains over this graph.

[07SilverSpeed6]

the AP is releasing this week or next, and Josh@Cobb posted this initial dyno on the other forums:

The peak power numbers for these graphs are as follows:
Stock = 247 ft. lb. TQ / 212 WHP
Stage1 + SF = 267 ft. lb. TQ / 222 WHP (20 WTQ, +10WHP)
Stage2 + SF Intake = 279 ft. lb. TQ / 232 WHP” (32WTQ, +20 WHP)"

keep in mind that this was also run on 91 octane gasoline, so once they turn out a 93 octane map + inertial dyno at sea level (cobb's shop is at like 4000ft), it should show some pretty noticeable gains over this graph.

Disappointing. I was expecting more at Stage 1.

Back on topic - I have the Corksport Inserts and have not been happier. I occasionally get a little hop when I pound on it hard, but it is a bounce or 2 then stick, where before it was more like bounce, clunk, bounce, clunk, bounce, clunk, let off, stick. Only drawback is 1 medium-hard vibe at startup, but notice absolutely no additional vibes while running. For me it was important to have comfort along with improved drivability. It is not perfect, but pretty darn close for $35 and change. Just my 2¢.

[clos561]

TRZ delrin FTW(drunk)

[ms3jake]

Wheel hop has a lot to do with dropping the clutch at too high of a RPM.

280ft/tq is a lot of torque for this small car. You go faster if you just slip it at around 2000-2500rpms. I nailed a 2.07 60ft like this on current set-up with street tires. Not trying to brag just offering some advice..

When you are speaking about your SU mm are you talking about the 62a or (race) 90a?

[MS3077]

When you are speaking about your SU mm are you talking about the 62a or (race) 90a?

62a, I think the 90a would be a little rough for a daily driver..

[ms3jake]

62a, I think the 90a would be a little rough for a daily driver..

Did you have to modify anything to install I read this on a SU mm review: "The only problem during install was that the original brackets had to be bent out of the way to make room for the bigger part". But maybe this was a MS6?

[MS3077]

Did you have to modify anything to install I read this on a SU mm review: "The only problem during install was that the original brackets had to be bent out of the way to make room for the bigger part". But maybe this was a MS6?

I'm not going to lie; it wasn't exactly "easy" getting it in there. However, you don't have to "modify" anything. You do need to take off the tranny latch that attaches to the actual mount though. If you don't it will not go in all the way. Use PB Blaster to help loosen the bolts on the tranny latch / mount and spray some on the SU mount so that it goes in easier.

Put car up on jack stands

Slide happy ass under car w/ 17/19mm sockets and ratchet. (You're going to need one big ratchet or torque wrench to insure them fuckers is tight)

Spray PB blaster on bolts as mentioned above.

Proceed to remove bolts on tranny bracket/ latch or whatever you call it. (You can leave the one on the end on just loosen it)

Remove the two (2) bolts that hold up the actually motor mount you are replacing (rear engine motor mount)

Spray PB Blaster in where the mount is enclosed so that you can proceed to pull it out.

Lube top and bottom of SU MM so that you can squeeze that bitch in there. (Again I used PB Blaster and worked like a charm)

Reverse above steps and you're done.

[GoFast]

i wonder why with the SU mount you have 3 bolts to remove and with the TRZ you only have to do 2?

[MS3077]

i wonder why with the SU mount you have 3 bolts to remove and with the TRZ you only have to do 2?

What do you mean 3?

The mount itself only has 2 regardless (one goes thru the fat part of the mount the other attaches crossway thru the tranny bracket) Maybe you're thinking of the tranny bracket I believe that has 3 bolts.

[GoFast]

blah...i did not read your last post correctly. my bad!

[GullyBoy21]

Yes in one month i will be getting the SU rear motor mount. In 2 months i will be getting my catback exhaust.

[yager]

i broke two stock rear mm