Anyway to make the MS3 more economical?

[IrishMidak]

Well, I paid $4.039 a gallong yesterday and I am to the point where I am looking at a Honda fit or some other econo box. The complete lack of speed would surely cause me a slow and painful death but I need to make real decisions here. Short of converting to another fuel source, what can I do to make the MS3 more economical? Even improving only highway mileage would be a huge help since that is mostly what I do. Also, what is the worst possible thing that would happen if I put in 87 octane instead of 93?

[Alejo_NIN]

1- SELL IT
2- don't race at all
3- tune it to use low octane fuel
4- change oil constantly
5- check tire pressure constantly
6- loose weight (you, not the car)
7- no fat people allowed in your car
8- no long trips
9-shut off the engine at red-lights
10- shut off the engine while cruising down hill
11- get rid of your girlfriend (useless extra weight)


that's all i cna think off....

other than...it is a performance car and people don't buy it to save gas...

[MS3077]

Don't put anything less than 91 octane in your MS3 as fuel of a lesser grade can cause serious damage to your motor.

As far as getting better gas mileage just shift early and often in the city and in the HWY try to cruise is 6th gear at low rpms.

If this doesn't work trade it in for a Honda Fit or something...

[SuperStretch18]

Get a boost gauge and pay attention to it. So long as you keep out of boost, you should get very good mileage...

Don't skimp on the gas though. You'll only be saving a few dollars each fill and could cause more expensive damage in the long-run...

[MS3077]

I don't think a boost gauge is going to help at all. It's really easy to tell when you're on boost, don't need a gauge to tell you that. Boost starts picking up a lot at around 3000rpms so you shift at or right below 3000rpms.

When you feel a sudden surge of power / tq that means you're hitting boost. Pretty simple.

[VermZ06]

Anything less than 93 will most likely cause detonation and severe power loss to your ms3. If you look at big picture you're only saving $3.5 to $4 every fill up using premium...yes that adds up but it's not THAT big of a hit. So that being said the MS3 can be an economical car just like many others. You just need to stay out of the turbo and stay in higher gears at lower rpm. You also want to make sure little things like tire pressure is correct and airfilters are clean. That all can make a little bit of a difference. Remember it's a four cylinder+manuel + fwd which can get very good milage as long as your a conservative driver. My MS3 averages 25mpg all day long using boost every so often. I think you'd be able to squeeze a little more out of it if you drive it like a grandma. You'd be getting better mpg with a Fit, but not as great as you probably think. If you want awesome mpg go with a rabbit tdi. Yes diesel is $4.50 a gallon but you get 40mpg...

[IrishMidak]

I can pretty much hear the turbo spooling since I have the MS CAI so no issue there. I can take it easy on it as far as shifting and speeds but do like to know that I can pull off on whoever, whenever so I'll probably not get rid of it yet. Would a CBE have any gains on fuel economy or does it do nothing but make more noise?

[GhostMercury]

I don't think a boost gauge is going to help at all. It's really easy to tell when you're on boost, don't need a gauge to tell you that. Boost starts picking up a lot at around 3000rpms so you shift at or right below 3000rpms.

When you feel a sudden surge of power / tq that means you're hitting boost. Pretty simple.

actually your wrong. Getting a boost gauge would be smart no matter what. But i can not hit boost ever and rev all the way to 6500 rpms. It has to do with how you press the peddle, getting a boost gauge would help you learn how to tell how far you can press the gas before your turbo starts suckin fuel.

[eddelgado]

Running lower octane fuel is not really the thing to do. If most of what you do is highway mileage then drive slower. We are supposed to have an overdrive in sixth gear but it still spins quite a bit.

Outside of that dont get on it often.

Ed.

[07speed3]

stay out of the boost, use cruise control, shift at like 2500rpm, drift downhill if possible dont leave your car idling for a long time.

out of curiosity what are you getting? Im getting about 26mpg and drive concervitivly for the most part. This car is wonderful considering my truck that i had to sell cost me about 100 to fill up and it get 12mpg. haha

[07speed3]

actually your wrong. Getting a boost gauge would be smart no matter what. But i can not hit boost ever and rev all the way to 6500 rpms. It has to do with how you press the peddle, getting a boost gauge would help you learn how to tell how far you can press the gas before your turbo starts suckin fuel.

isnt how much boost you see dependent on the load thats on the motor?


I can pretty much hear the turbo spooling since I have the MS CAI so no issue there. I can take it easy on it as far as shifting and speeds but do like to know that I can pull off on whoever, whenever so I'll probably not get rid of it yet. Would a CBE have any gains on fuel economy or does it do nothing but make more noise?

anything that improves air flow will increase your mpg.

[MS3077]

actually your wrong. Getting a boost gauge would be smart no matter what. But i can not hit boost ever and rev all the way to 6500 rpms. It has to do with how you press the peddle, getting a boost gauge would help you learn how to tell how far you can press the gas before your turbo starts suckin fuel.

Actually I'm not wrong sir. You just like to disagree with just about everything I say because I think the MS CAI is a waste of money.

YOu can tell when you are hitting boost without a boost gauge. It is simply not needed for this car! If you can't you have physical / mental problems, etc.

[GhostMercury]

Actually I'm not wrong sir. You just like to disagree with just about everything I say because I think the MS CAI is a waste of money.

YOu can tell when you are hitting boost without a boost gauge. It is simply not needed for this car! If you can't you have physical / mental problems, etc.

Actually what you said is wrong. Boost is hit at 3000 rpm if you are flooring it. But you can rev the motor as high as you want without boosting. Now explain to me how i am wrong and you are not

[turbolife]

Actually I'm not wrong sir. You just like to disagree with just about everything I say because I think the MS CAI is a waste of money.

YOu can tell when you are hitting boost without a boost gauge. It is simply not needed for this car! If you can't you have physical / mental problems, etc.

I'm not saying you can't get a good idea of when you are boosting w/out a gauge, but just because you can hear it spooling doesn't mean you are in boost.

Get a boost gauge, you have a turbo car. You should have one anyways, otherwise how will you notice small changes in boost or vac?


Well, I paid $4.039 a gallong yesterday and I am to the point where I am looking at a Honda fit or some other econo box. The complete lack of speed would surely cause me a slow and painful death but I need to make real decisions here. Short of converting to another fuel source, what can I do to make the MS3 more economical? Even improving only highway mileage would be a huge help since that is mostly what I do. Also, what is the worst possible thing that would happen if I put in 87 octane instead of 93?

Don't trade the MS3 in on a Fit. It will take a TON of time to break even, its not really worth it at all.

Say your MS3 gets 22mpg (average of city and highway according to listed figures), and the Fit gets 31mpg (same average of city and highway according to listed figures).

It would take you 197.93 less gallons of gas at 15k miles/year with the Fit.

If you use current Yonkers prices according to GasBuddy ($3.71 for regular, $3.99 for premium) you are only saving $925/year (approximate, $3.71 * 483.87 gallons for the Fit vs. $3.99 * 681.8 gallons for the MS3).

I am assuming you have a lien on the MS3 and are upside down, if not you are at least eating a large amount of depreciation. Either way, it doesn't make economical sense to move to a Fit, you won't see a return on your outlay for a few years. Plus, you wouldn't have the MS3 anymore.

[IrishMidak]

Not really wanting to trade it in but I hate the idea of wasting so much money on gas. I am definitely not upside down since I only financed about half and will be paid in full after 3 years of ownership. Ideal situation would be easy to do mods that would help and not completely offset the savings due to cost of said mods. From what I have read, there are little to no gains with a CBE as far as HP is concerned so is it save to assume it does not improve gas mileage either? Filter is cleaned thoroughly, tires are all at 32.5 and I am taking it easy on it when I can. What else can I do???

[SuperStretch18]

Jeez, I wasn't trying to instigate anything. I find the gauge to be helpful to pinpoint if you are in boost when you are just cruising. Yes, you can tell pretty well without, but I find the gauge a more reliable visual than simply looking at rpms. Just my .02; don't read too much into it...

[Hapa88]

After I installed my BEGI intake, I noticed my MPG actually increase (in the second tank or so, cuz I was driving crazy the first tank I had with it).

My best MPG tank before the intake was 27.5 and after the intake it was 31. It seems to be consistently 1-3mpg more than before the intake.

[Hapa88]

Anything less than 93 will most likely cause detonation and severe power loss to your ms3.

We only have 91 octane here in SoCal at the pump. 93 is nonexistent here.

Oh and the owners manual says anything less than 91 octane will cause power loss (not 93). 87 octane can be used in an emergency situation. .

I guess I can drive to Pasadena and get the 100 octane for $7+ a gallon, but I don't think it's worth it.

[IrishMidak]

What about a boost controller? Do any of them allow you to completely shut the boost off? Would this even help?

[lasermp5]

Shift blow 3k rpm, try not to exceed 70mph on the highway... stay between 60-65mph when you can. Don't take off from stop signs or red lights... accelerate slowly and smoothly. When you know a light ahead is red, don't continue to keep your foot on the right pedal and brake when you get to the light... go ahead and downshift 2-3 times using engine braking to slow yourself. Many a time you'll just get to the light as it changes. You save fuel this way and your brakes.

Basically, you gotta drive like a grandma.

[MS3077]

Actually what you said is wrong. Boost is hit at 3000 rpm if you are flooring it. But you can rev the motor as high as you want without boosting. Now explain to me how i am wrong and you are not

YOu can tell when you're boosting period! I don't need a boost gauge to tell me I'm boosting. How f'n hard is that to understand?????????

[mckraut]

actually your wrong. Getting a boost gauge would be smart no matter what. But i can not hit boost ever and rev all the way to 6500 rpms. It has to do with how you press the peddle, getting a boost gauge would help you learn how to tell how far you can press the gas before your turbo starts suckin fuel.

I agree with Ghost on this one. In addition, I think it's harder to tell when you're in boost with the stock airbox due to how quiet it is.

[MS3077]

I agree with Ghost on this one. In addition, I think it's harder to tell when you're in boost with the stock airbox due to how quiet it is.

Okay then maybe it's just me but I can certainly without a doubt tell when I'm in boost. I've driven my friends MS3 with a boost gauge and my theory still holds true. Maybe I have super-human senses or something?

[IrishMidak]

Can we get back on topic? Anyways, boost controller any help at all?

[GhostMercury]

no because to be economical you want to stay out of boost. so you would just be wasting money

[turbolife]

Can we get back on topic? Anyways, boost controller any help at all?

No, because you can't lower boost further than stock.

[mckraut]

Okay then maybe it's just me but I can certainly without a doubt tell when I'm in boost. I've driven my friends MS3 with a boost gauge and my theory still holds true. Maybe I have super-human senses or something?

I usually have to have my music off and listen for turbo spool before I can tell if I'm in boost or not when I'm NOT stomping on it. If you're slamming the pedal down to the floor, yeah, you'll be in boost before long. Not that I care too much when I am/am not in boost at this point. Ghost is just saying, it's not a horrible idea to get a boost gauge anyway. You can tell if you're boosting less than normal, which would lead you to believe something may be wrong with your car. Also, a little dial jumping around is an easier indication of when you're boosting then your ears. It's what, maybe $90 to get a boost gauge installed if you do it yourself? I think it's a worthwhile addition to the car period.


Boost starts picking up a lot at around 3000rpms so you shift at or right below 3000rpms.

This you were just plain wrong about. It depends on how hard you're stomping on the gas.

[mckraut]

Can we get back on topic? Anyways, boost controller any help at all?

I use cruise control a lot when I'm out on the highways. Keeps my itchy trigger "finger" off the gas and saves me money. Also, try to keep a lot of extra stuff out of your trunk.

[IrishMidak]

I use cruise control a lot when I'm out on the highways. Keeps my itchy trigger "finger" off the gas and saves me money. Also, try to keep a lot of extra stuff out of your trunk.
Did that yesterday on a 122 mile drive. Boring as hell but I made it through alive.

[07speed3]

you cant completely turn the boost off...however you can lower it to where the factory waste gate is set at. Im not sure if you can do that with a MBC or not but i know you can with an EBC

[Rotus]

You don't have to train your car to do anything. The computer will do it for you. I have used lower octane gas, and could not see any detonation, of course, that doesn't mean it might not occur under the right circumstances. I tried it once and the savings in money were not worth potential damage. The compter will know what octane you are running and it will adjust timing accordingly. If you do this, you could be voiding your warranty, though. Depends on how long the computer sotres that type of information.

As far as shutting off the motor, unless it's a hella long light, you will actually use moar fuel to start it than you save by shutting it off. Instead, coast down more to a stop. If you travel the same roads all the time, you have a feeling of when the lights turn and how fast you have to go to catch the next one. Instead, travel at a steady resonable rate and coast down as far as you feel comfortable (and traffic will allow) to the red light.

When you are on the freeway, use cruise control, but if there is a prolonged uphill section, turn the cruise off and input only enought gas to lose a few mph until the top of the hill, then input more gas to regain your speed. Coasting helps because the computer knows when there is a sufficient lack of load, it can shut off fuel to your engine and just let it spin with the transmission.

As far as fat ppl are concerned, you can take extra weight out of your car. If you have a big sub box in the back, you are probably losing a few mpg due to the extra weight.

Finally, for the intake, I did see a slight gain in mpg when I installed my MS CAI. Any gains you get from this mod (whatever brand or type you use) is from a leaning of the a/f mixture from a larger than stock diameter at the maf sensor.

Did you do the trip meter hack? That can help a little, even though it's calculations are a little off.

[IrishMidak]

You don't have to train your car to do anything. The computer will do it for you. I have used lower octane gas, and could not see any detonation, of course, that doesn't mean it might not occur under the right circumstances. I tried it once and the savings in money were not worth potential damage. The compter will know what octane you are running and it will adjust timing accordingly. If you do this, you could be voiding your warranty, though. Depends on how long the computer sotres that type of information.

As far as shutting off the motor, unless it's a hella long light, you will actually use moar fuel to start it than you save by shutting it off. Instead, coast down more to a stop. If you travel the same roads all the time, you have a feeling of when the lights turn and how fast you have to go to catch the next one. Instead, travel at a steady resonable rate and coast down as far as you feel comfortable (and traffic will allow) to the red light.

When you are on the freeway, use cruise control, but if there is a prolonged uphill section, turn the cruise off and input only enought gas to lose a few mph until the top of the hill, then input more gas to regain your speed. Coasting helps because the computer knows when there is a sufficient lack of load, it can shut off fuel to your engine and just let it spin with the transmission.

As far as fat ppl are concerned, you can take extra weight out of your car. If you have a big sub box in the back, you are probably losing a few mpg due to the extra weight.

Finally, for the intake, I did see a slight gain in mpg when I installed my MS CAI. Any gains you get from this mod (whatever brand or type you use) is from a leaning of the a/f mixture from a larger than stock diameter at the maf sensor.

Did you do the trip meter hack? That can help a little, even though it's calculations are a little off.

I have always coasted to lights that I know and even those I dont so no issues for me there. Also, I have the GT so no hack needed. I was actually watching the "Actual MPG" usage on my trip home last night and it was mid 30's for a good portion of it at 65. I have no issue with changing my driving habits to improve mileage but I was really hoping for something I can do with the car to improve it besides what I have already done.

[serialtoon]

I drove without mashing my pedal much my last tank and i got a lame 21.8 MPG....what the heck are you guys doing to achieve 28????

[MS3077]

I drove without mashing my pedal much my last tank and i got a lame 21.8 MPG....what the heck are you guys doing to achieve 28????

+1

[serialtoon]

+1
I think people dont know how to calculate their MPGs or that trip computer is lying on the GT peoples models. Just for reference....

1.Go to the gas station and fill up the fuel tank.

2. Record the mileage, before even pulling away from the pump. We will call this Mileage A.

3. Drive normally until the tank is less than half full.

4. Fill up the tank again (preferably at the same station using the same pump as pumps may be calibrated differently). This time, pay attention to how many gallons it takes to fill up the tank. This is usually shown at the pump.

5. Record the mileage again, just like before. We will call this Mileage B.

6. Subtract Mileage A from Mileage B. This will give you the number of miles you drove since your last fill-up.

7. Divide your answer by the number of gallons it took to fill up your tank. This will give you your car's MPG.

[MS3077]

I usually have to have my music off and listen for turbo spool before I can tell if I'm in boost or not when I'm NOT stomping on it. If you're slamming the pedal down to the floor, yeah, you'll be in boost before long. Not that I care too much when I am/am not in boost at this point. Ghost is just saying, it's not a horrible idea to get a boost gauge anyway. You can tell if you're boosting less than normal, which would lead you to believe something may be wrong with your car. Also, a little dial jumping around is an easier indication of when you're boosting then your ears. It's what, maybe $90 to get a boost gauge installed if you do it yourself? I think it's a worthwhile addition to the car period.



This you were just plain wrong about. It depends on how hard you're stomping on the gas.


Yes I realize that the 3000rpm thing I mentioned isn't totally untrue. I was thinking for peak TQ or something, lol!

[IrishMidak]

I think people dont know how to calculate their MPGs or that trip computer is lying on the GT peoples models. Just for reference....

1.Go to the gas station and fill up the fuel tank.

2. Record the mileage, before even pulling away from the pump. We will call this Mileage A.

3. Drive normally until the tank is less than half full.

4. Fill up the tank again (preferably at the same station using the same pump as pumps may be calibrated differently). This time, pay attention to how many gallons it takes to fill up the tank. This is usually shown at the pump.

5. Record the mileage again, just like before. We will call this Mileage B.

6. Subtract Mileage A from Mileage B. This will give you the number of miles you drove since your last fill-up.

7. Divide your answer by the number of gallons it took to fill up your tank. This will give you your car's MPG.

I did that for the first year of having the car. I would usually be at 22-24, once getting 28. The worst was 14...ouch!

[zim]

I noticed a slight increase in mpg with my new cobb intake. I've been trying to stay out of boost lately, sometimes I just don't see a point in flooring it unless it's for a reason. it seems like everytime I floor it I hear this noise in the background, kind of sounds like coins dropping on the ground.

[eddelgado]

The computer is inaccurate.

I have been seeing between 22.5 -24.0 mpg on my car. I have only 1800 miles so it should probably improve. This is mostly city driving although not full stop and go. The computer reports about 11-12% better than this. So if I calculate 24 the computer tells ~ 26.5.....

Ed.

[Betelgeuse]

It's really easy, just try to mimic a modern automatic: get to the highest gear possible (without bogging) for the current speed and be light on the gas. That's it!

For me that's easier said than done though.

[MS3077]

It's really easy, just try to mimic a modern automatic: get to the highest gear possible (without bogging) for the current speed and be light on the gas. That's it!

For me that's easier said than done though.

Exactly! There's been a countless # of threads on the fuel economy topic and you just summed it all up in nut shell.

Common sense FTW!!!!!!!!!!

[Super Unique]

I have the gt, it's a 2008.5 and so far I am averaging 24 to 26 with a mix of highway/city. I calculate it the old fashioned way, miles traveled since filled, how many gallons to fill, do the math :) That computer in the dash is just guessing based on throttle position / speed and fuel remaining.

[MS3077]

I've found that the trip computer generally reads +3mpg higher then actual.

So if trip computer says:

20 - Actual is 17
25 - Actual is 22
30 - Actual is 27

Been my experience anyway...

[lynx17]

If you're looking for things to do to the car, in addition to changing your driving habits, there are a few possibilities:

1. Run higher tire pressure -- slight over-inflation means slightly less rolling resistance. Balance out the wear at a few autocross events :)
2. Lighter wheels
3. Skinny tires (but it will hurt traction)
4. Remove excess weight. Spare tire is an easy 40 lbs. Back seat can't be too hard to remove. Same for the passenger-side front seat. How extreme you get is up to you.

But, like already mentioned, keeping your foot out of the gas is the key. Accelerate slowly, coast in-gear to stops or lights, and keep your speeds down on the freeway.

[GoFast]

as everyone else here said, just lay off of it. highway its gets the best mileage(atleast i do) at about 60mph. I drive about 80% highway and 20% city and average 27.5mpg(according to the proper method, not the computer) but the computer on mine is only about 1mpg off its saying i average 28.4 mpgs

[hectik1]

Actually I'm not wrong sir. You just like to disagree with just about everything I say because I think the MS CAI is a waste of money.

YOu can tell when you are hitting boost without a boost gauge. It is simply not needed for this car! If you can't you have physical / mental problems, etc.I agree...I have owned enough boosted cars to tell if I am in boost or not. For the record, mixed driving, I average 22-24 MPG getting into boost here and there. I have never driven without any boost...I am interested to see what MPG I get.(thought)

[SwampAss]

Tire pressure
alignment
don't ride around with a ton of shit in your trunk.
I get 1-2 mpg better by using top tier gas (shell is what I try to use)

Discount gas usually saves a few pennies, but wastes more in MPG.


BTW, spending money to save money is stupid. (even if it's $50-$80 on a boost gauge)

[ms3jake]

I got 27 mpg on my last tank. Around 70% highway(cruise control 70-75 mph), did not floor once on this tank but also didnt baby it. Still enjoyed my car and got great gas milage for a high performance car. When I drive it more aggresive I normaly average 21-23 mpg. I always use 93 octain and I usually dont have any passengers. I weight 190. I am also lucky to have a job that is only 12 miles away mostly highway.

[Allen]

Can you go "SMALLER" wheels? 15s/16s? That would help save on gas.

[MS3077]

Can you go "SMALLER" wheels? 15s/16s? That would help save on gas.

Possibly but you might look a little goofy riding on wheels that small.

[mordant80]

Can you go "SMALLER" wheels? 15s/16s? That would help save on gas.

That wouldn't save gas at all. That would give you a lower gear ratio. Make the wheels turn more times to go the same distance. Lighter wheels im sure would help, but not smaller.

[richmusch]

I drive about 80% highway and 20% city and on my last tank of gas I got 30MPG. The worst gas mileage I have gotten was in the winter when it was really cold and that was 24MPG.

Now, I am no Turbo genius, but I am full of common sense. If you shift before 3k RPM's and don't drive it like you stole it, you can get very good gas mileage out of these cars. The only mod I have is a Fujita CAI and don't drive my car crazy all the time, so there's your answer... :)

-Rich

[Kurt07]

Here is what I did. I started off averaging 24mpg. That is combine highway and city driving.

1. I don't let the car idle for a long time. When I stop for coffee in the morning, I turn the car off. The wife doesn't like it, but she hates the high gas prices too.

2. I shift between 2500 and 3000 rpms. Unless I am merging on the highway. Then I try to stay under 5000 rpms. I use the highest gear possible.

3. I pay close attention to the boost gauge.

4. I use cruise control on the highway.

Doing this has increased my milage to 27.9 mpg. I can live with that.

[Sacrilicious]

It's really easy, just try to mimic a modern automatic: get to the highest gear possible (without bogging) for the current speed and be light on the gas. That's it!

For me that's easier said than done though.

being light on the throttle is VERY important. this is where having a boost gauge comes in handy. i have a cobb sri, and i'll be a horse's arse before i need a boost gauge to tell me if i'm boosting, but what IS handy is knowing that i'm nearing 0psi in MAP. if you want to save gas, you should be finding a cruise speed where you can chill at -15vac or -20vac in the highest gear possible. keep in mind that this means you shouldn't necessarily be in the highest gear available.

cruising at 35mph in 6th gear is not necessarily the best choice, because if you are in a hilly area and need to apply the gas periodically, your engine is going to waste a lot of gas trying to satisfy your speed requirements because you will have to apply heavier throttle pressure to maintain speed. basically, if you are given the choice of cruising at 0psi at 2500rpms vs -15vac at 3000rpms, pick the -15vac every time! you're actually using less gas even though you are technically revving higher!

yes, can get pretty anal and complicated, and who the hell cares under normal conditions, but if you're really looking for ways to get 25mpg+, this is what you're going to have to look out for.

EDIT: your MAP is caused by a combination of things: throttle pressure, engine load, rpm, gear, etc. to figure out the details, you will likely just have to sit and experiment. you can get a general feel from engine sound and feel, but if you get a boost gauge, you will see that there's a lot of subtle differences you can easily miss. make sure you get a gauge that shows boost/vac (-30/30) and not just boost (0/30).

EDIT2: i regularly get 24-25mpg (calculated at the pump, not from our stupid trip meter) on mixed driving even though i do my share of stomping it because when i'm not stomping it, i'm taking it easy on the throttle and saving the gas that i don't need to burn just to inefficiently maintain speed...=d

[SwampAss]

I ghost ride the whip more. My body weight negatively impacts economy.

[happy and angry]

Shifting at lower and lower revs doesn't necessarily improve fuel economy. Shift too low and you take yourself so far out of the power band that accelerating up to speed uses more fuel because your engine is providing less power. You might want to cruise at a lower RPM (assuming flat roads), but to get up to speed you shouldn't be trying to stay as low in the power band as you can.

The manual provides you with shift points, and those are generally the most fuel efficient ones to use for daily driving. You don't lug, you have enough power to get up to speed without wasting fuel, you're not revving so high you're wasting fuel. The manual suggests shifting somewhere around 2,500.

[Rotus]

you're going to spend $600+ on a CBE to maybe make 1-2 mpg? (if anything)

even if it did net you a 2 mpg increase, it would take 3 1/2 years to break even on that investment (assuming $4/gal, 12k mi/year, 23mpg before)

all this talk about running regular is kinda silly - the cost differential between regular and premium is the same as it ever was, somewhere between $.20-.30 depending on the station - percentage wise, the difference is actually less significant now

the real saver is in the high MPG cars, not the ones that will run on regular

Yeah, I am still saving money over my Nissan Frontier V6 and I always put the cheapest shit in that.

[Rotus]

what just happenned thar? I replied to a post and it edited a previous post from today? I'm actually quoting a post two posts down from mine!

[PeterC]

I have never cracked 25 mpg in the MS3 with mixed driving, and I have tried hard...shifting at 2000K for an entire tank on synthetic oil and driving it incredibly soft, using cruise control, no AC, etc. I still get under 25 mpg. I don't know where you guys live, but there must be a difference in the air or the terrain. In Georgia I really doubt anyone is doing any better than me without an intake.

[Jasnall]

But i can not hit boost ever and rev all the way to 6500 rpms.

Ya i just noticed that, driving my sis to school i was tired and grandma driving and was driving up to 5k rpm with little to not boost feeling. Neato, guess its load or how much gas u give it.

I commute on the freeeway too.
1. Drive the speed limit 65-70. lower rpms + constant speed = better mpg
2. Go into neutral down hills, i was cruising 75 down a fatty hill for a while at 99.9 mpg!!! woohooo
3. Shift at 2500 ish, get through the gears fast keep the rpms low.
4. Keep AC off, windows up
5. FInd a big truck and draft it all the way to work!

I dont mind the gas in the MS3 because I wanted a sports car. I could have bought a Prius but, its a prius, and I wanted to go zoom zoom.

[nate0123]

I can pretty much hear the turbo spooling since I have the MS CAI so no issue there. I can take it easy on it as far as shifting and speeds but do like to know that I can pull off on whoever, whenever so I'll probably not get rid of it yet. Would a CBE have any gains on fuel economy or does it do nothing but make more noise?
you're going to spend $600+ on a CBE to maybe make 1-2 mpg? (if anything)

even if it did net you a 2 mpg increase, it would take 3 1/2 years to break even on that investment (assuming $4/gal, 12k mi/year, 23mpg before)

all this talk about running regular is kinda silly - the cost differential between regular and premium is the same as it ever was, somewhere between $.20-.30 depending on the station - percentage wise, the difference is actually less significant now

the real saver is in the high MPG cars, not the ones that will run on regular

[clos561]

Well, I paid $4.039 a gallong yesterday and I am to the point where I am looking at a Honda fit or some other econo box. The complete lack of speed would surely cause me a slow and painful death but I need to make real decisions here. Short of converting to another fuel source, what can I do to make the MS3 more economical? Even improving only highway mileage would be a huge help since that is mostly what I do. Also, what is the worst possible thing that would happen if I put in 87 octane instead of 93?

i just filled up 2.4 gallons a 3.97 got 74 miles out of that which equals 31 mpg at least...shift at 2k no higher. if u shift at 1.5k ull accel slower but u wil save alot of money. a boost gauge is a good way to save. stay at -10 vacuum or less and ur golden. I have tested this myself over 100 fill ups and it never fails. always get better mileage.

- btw u guys shift at such high rpms...2500-3k? get cereal, its not even needed for DD

[MS3077]

All this talk about getting a boost gauge for better fuel economy is just ridiculous!

It's a simple concept really, it's called common sense. You floor it alot you get poor MPG. You take it easy on the gas you get better MPG. Why is this thread still up??

[Sacrilicious]

All this talk about getting a boost gauge for better fuel economy is just ridiculous!

It's a simple concept really, it's called common sense. You floor it alot you get poor MPG. You take it easy on the gas you get better MPG. Why is this thread still up??

yes, it's common sense to go light on the gas, but how light is light enough, and how heavy can you get away with? the reason the boost gauge is helpful is because a given amount of throttle pressure does not necessarily mean a set MAP (varies based on engine load, etc.), so if you watch the boost gauge, you can keep yourself heavily in the vac no matter what. ya, you don't NEED a boost gauge for this, and you can just go by feel and get roughly the same results, but it's easier with a boost gauge as you learn. the important part about the boost gauge is that it gives you a visual response to every little change you make in throttle pressure, which can teach you a lot about your driving habits.

chill out...some people like to pick these things apart and learn as much as they can about their car from the experience. a boost gauge is just an aid for that goal. it gives you a good way to visually see how our cars' ECU responds based on a number of variables.

[builthatch]

i think this type of thing is crazy....

just don't drive as aggressively and roll with the punches.

i see people blow money on so much stuff that they don't even realize is such a ridiculous expense- drinks at a bar/restaurant, smokes, Starbucks, new cell phones that do everything cept work well as a phone....they don't even think twice. But as soon as gas goes up, they suddenly want to drive Hybrids.

for every 10 cents gas goes up, it's an extra $5 a month/$60 a year, assuming you drive 15K miles annually @ 25mpg. most people don't drive that in this car, so the numbers are high.

so, let's say during the next year gas sees an average increase of 30 cents from when you first bought the car. that's 180 dollars extra a year. is that really THAT big of a deal?? that is one high end dinner with two drinks, or 1.5 pairs of whatever the new nike airs are...

it's not that big of a deal. if it is, you should have never gotten the ms3 in the first place because you aren't making enough money.

[SuperStretch18]

I love when people drive 10 miles out of the way to save five cents a gallon...

[MS3077]

i think this type of thing is crazy....

just don't drive as aggressively and roll with the punches.

i see people blow money on so much stuff that they don't even realize is such a ridiculous expense- drinks at a bar/restaurant, smokes, Starbucks, new cell phones that do everything cept work well as a phone....they don't even think twice. But as soon as gas goes up, they suddenly want to drive Hybrids.

for every 10 cents gas goes up, it's an extra $5 a month/$60 a year, assuming you drive 15K miles annually @ 25mpg. most people don't drive that in this car, so the numbers are high.

so, let's say during the next year gas sees an average increase of 30 cents from when you first bought the car. that's 180 dollars extra a year. is that really THAT big of a deal?? that is one high end dinner with two drinks, or 1.5 pairs of whatever the new nike airs are...

it's not that big of a deal. if it is, you should have never gotten the ms3 in the first place because you aren't making enough money.

+1

[MS3077]

yes, it's common sense to go light on the gas, but how light is light enough, and how heavy can you get away with? the reason the boost gauge is helpful is because a given amount of throttle pressure does not necessarily mean a set MAP (varies based on engine load, etc.), so if you watch the boost gauge, you can keep yourself heavily in the vac no matter what. ya, you don't NEED a boost gauge for this, and you can just go by feel and get roughly the same results, but it's easier with a boost gauge as you learn. the important part about the boost gauge is that it gives you a visual response to every little change you make in throttle pressure, which can teach you a lot about your driving habits.

chill out...some people like to pick these things apart and learn as much as they can about their car from the experience. a boost gauge is just an aid for that goal. it gives you a good way to visually see how our cars' ECU responds based on a number of variables.

Dude, you're trying to make it sound like rocket science or something when it is not. It's not that damn complicated like I said. Lay off the gas and learn to drive properly. You don't need a freakin boost gauge to do that and it doesn't make it any easier as it's already super easy to do.

If you enjoy making things more complicated then they need to be have at it!

[Sacrilicious]

Dude, you're trying to make it sound like rocket science or something when it is not. It's not that damn complicated like I said. Lay off the gas and learn to drive properly. You don't need a freakin boost gauge to do that and it doesn't make it any easier as it's already super easy to do.

If you enjoy making things more complicated then they need to be have at it!

+1

yes, i do enjoy doing just that, because it teaches me way more than just how to save gas. simply observing the MAP under varying throttle pressures, loads, etc. can teach you a lot about how your car's ECU commands the engine. to take things farther, this is the main reason people get the Dash Hawk: to log and observe how the ECU responds to a variety of parameters.

as anal and overly-analytical as it may sound, these are the kind of things that people do to teach themselves how to tune and tweak their engines.

[lestat13]

Dude, you're trying to make it sound like rocket science or something when it is not. It's not that damn complicated like I said. Lay off the gas and learn to drive properly. You don't need a freakin boost gauge to do that and it doesn't make it any easier as it's already super easy to do.

If you enjoy making things more complicated then they need to be have at it!

I for one think there is some skill or science behind it. I have spent entire tanks trying my best to stay at a lower rpm and out of boost. Except for one tank where I was on cruise control for about 80 straight miles, I have never broken 23mpg. The long cruise only gave me 27mpg.

In my defense, I know how to drive well, I know how to drive manuals well, I know how to keep my car out of boost. I am not expecting the 30mpg I got even when I beat on my Integra, but when people say they can get 28 and I'm getting 22, I know I can improve my mileage.

[yashart_mp3]

I am in the same predicament now. I purchased an 08 GT w/Nav MS3 4 months ago, and have since put 8500 miles on the car. My daily commute significantly increased, as i probably wouldn't have purchased this car if I knew I was going to be commuting 22k+ miles a year. Unfortunately, I will be relocating soon, and my daily commute will significantly increase again. I'm guessing I'll be driving a little over 30k miles a year.

I really don't mind putting my personal info out there, so here:

I have been looking at slightly used 07-08 Honda Civic Ex's and a few 06 RSX (base model) as a possible trade in. The problem here, is that sticker price for my MS3 was $27k. After trade in, tax, tag, etc... I ended up financing 20,500. What is the trade in value of the car now? 19.5 - 20k. I owe a little over 19k on the car. So for me, I'd be taking almost a 7k loss to get into another car. Just doesn't seem right. I know i could probably get 21.5 - 22k if im lucky doing a private sale, but even still were only talking about a 2k difference.

For me, the hardest part about buying an 17-18k civic or RSX is that my payments will be almost the same for such a "run-of-the-mill" car. Going from and MS3 to a civic is more than heartbreaking, and really why i haven't pulled the trigger on one. Although I would be saving on gas, insurance, and slightly smaller monthly car note, i am taking a 7k hit right off the bat.

Also, i don't know where you guys are getting your gas numbers from. Regular gas here is about $3.68, premium is $4.08 at the cheapest shell gas station in the area. Another gripe i have is that i dont get anywhere near 28mpg on the highway. 95% of my commute is on the highway, and i've only gotten over 280 miles to the tank once since owning this car. I set cruise control on the highway @ 65-70, and i try to drive it like grandma. If I were actually getting 28mpg, i wouldn't even be posting this... but since i average about 20mpg, drive 22k+ miles a year, and have to full up @ $4.08 a gallon, i'm really starting to look else where....

[MS3077]

Using my theory (common sense) I can get 27-30 mpg easily. However, I bought this car because I like to have a fun daily driver and don't give a rat’s ass about gas mileage as I bought this car knowing that I could easily afford it. It just seems like the MS3 is causing more of a headache to own than anything for some of you and perhaps you stepped a little too far out of your price range.

I could be completely wrong but that’s just how I see it.

[yashart_mp3]

Using my theory (common sense) I can get 27-30 mpg easily. However, I bought this car because I like to have a fun daily driver and don't give a rat’s ass about gas mileage as I bought this car knowing that I could easily afford it. It just seems like the MS3 is causing more of a headache to own than anything for some of you and perhaps you stepped a little to far out of your price range.

I could be completely wrong but that’s just how I see it.

LOL, well you are seeing it wrong buddy. This was my compromise car, as I couldn't justify buying the 335i I had placed a deposit on. I'm 23 and I want to purchase a home sometime soon, so it just didn't make sense while i'm wasting money renting a Condo.

I guess im just trying to save money, since I have other goals in mind as well. Since regular gas is supposed to hit $4 gal this summer (which means premium will be around $4.50 for me), and i commute 30k miles a year averaging 20mpg, i see a lot of wasted money, and obviously want to eliminate that...

[MS3077]

LOL, well you are seeing it wrong buddy. This was my compromise car, as I couldn't justify buying the 335i I had placed a deposit on. I'm 23 and I want to purchase a home sometime soon, so it just didn't make sense while i'm wasting money renting a Condo.

I guess im just trying to save money, since I have other goals in mind as well. Since regular gas is supposed to hit $4 gal this summer (which means premium will be around $4.50 for me), and i commute 30k miles a year averaging 20mpg, i see a lot of wasted money, and obviously want to eliminate that...


I’m not saying anything wrong as my statement wasn't directed towards you personally.

[Sacrilicious]

For me, the hardest part about buying an 17-18k civic or RSX is that my payments will be almost the same for such a "run-of-the-mill" car. Going from and MS3 to a civic is more than heartbreaking, and really why i haven't pulled the trigger on one. Although I would be saving on gas, insurance, and slightly smaller monthly car note, i am taking a 7k hit right off the bat.

Also, i don't know where you guys are getting your gas numbers from. Regular gas here is about $3.68, premium is $4.08 at the cheapest shell gas station in the area. Another gripe i have is that i dont get anywhere near 28mpg on the highway. 95% of my commute is on the highway, and i've only gotten over 280 miles to the tank once since owning this car. I set cruise control on the highway @ 65-70, and i try to drive it like grandma. If I were actually getting 28mpg, i wouldn't even be posting this... but since i average about 20mpg, drive 22k+ miles a year, and have to full up @ $4.08 a gallon, i'm really starting to look else where....

your numbers seem really low for the conditions you're driving in. something must be weird, because unless you're always climbing up a gradual incline on the highway, you should be able to cruise at 65-70mph in 6th gear are WAY higher than 20mpg...=/ cruise control in 6th gear at highway speed is great...as long as you're not trying to climb a hill...:D

[yashart_mp3]

sorry, I wish I could report higher numbers, but that is honestly what i am getting. I average about 18-21mpg (although the trip computer seems to stay at 26.1 no matter what)

[Sacrilicious]

I have never cracked 25 mpg in the MS3 with mixed driving, and I have tried hard...shifting at 2000K for an entire tank on synthetic oil and driving it incredibly soft, using cruise control, no AC, etc. I still get under 25 mpg. I don't know where you guys live, but there must be a difference in the air or the terrain. In Georgia I really doubt anyone is doing any better than me without an intake.

shifting at 2krpms is not necessarily the best thing for gas mileage. it basically means that you may end up pushing down harder on the throttle than you should have to in order to get acceleration. as happy and angry says, it means that you're actually trying to push the car outside of its power band, and that's not the efficient way to use your fuel.

here's some info for a more technical explanation:

at <2krpms, if you press down moderately hard on the throttle, you will see the MAP go from -20vac to 0psi very easily. doing the same thing at >3krpms, you might hit like -10vac.

what does this mean? well, if you get a Dash Hawk, you will see that our cars run at an AFR of about 14.x most of the time (unless you're not pressing down on the throttle or you're boosting). AFR = air/fuel ratio, so if your air/fuel ratio is staying about the same, but your MAP just shot way up, your ECU will fire up the fuel injector pressure in order to squirt way more gas into the engine cylinders to maintain its commanded AFR. when you're outside of your power band, it can cost you more fuel to get the same amount of acceleration out of your engine as compared to being in a lower gear but staying within your power band. the lower gear may be running at higher RPMS (more total detonations), but because it's running at a significantly lower MAP, which means significantly less fuel is injected into the cylinder per detonation, the total fuel burned may actually be less under the same acceleration conditions.

the above conditions are why i asked yashart if he was driving slightly uphill for extended periods of time, because that is a perfect example of a cruise condition where being in a higher gear may actually hurt you, since you will have to apply more throttle pressure to maintain your speed than if you were in a lower gear.

anyways...this is just another angle for you to try. give it a shot sometime and see if it helps you, because your current method seems not to be working as well as it could...=/ this, btw, is why i think boost gauges help...because you can see exactly how far into the vac you are.

[Sacrilicious]

sorry, I wish I could report higher numbers, but that is honestly what i am getting. I average about 18-21mpg (although the trip computer seems to stay at 26.1 no matter what)

the trip computer is garbage. the only thing it might be useful for is seeing general trends.

[Betelgeuse]

sorry, I wish I could report higher numbers, but that is honestly what i am getting. I average about 18-21mpg (although the trip computer seems to stay at 26.1 no matter what)

This is what I get on average. I see some awfully high numbers posted and have to wonder if people are taking the trip comp literally. The comp is always about 2 or more mpg over in my car. It's really just a rough guide. The best way to know for sure is to do it the old fashioned way preferably at the same station, same pump. I know I could do better if I would just lay off the gas/boost but that's way too much fun!

[freebird_78]

sorry, I wish I could report higher numbers, but that is honestly what i am getting. I average about 18-21mpg (although the trip computer seems to stay at 26.1 no matter what)

I also think these numbers are off. I'm averaging close to 30 mpg with mine, 60% HWY / 40% City. That combined with your trip computer being THAT far off sounds fishy to me.

I almost hate to ask, but are you sure you're calculating correctly?

At your next fill up, reset the trip odometer. Burn up as much of that tank full as you can (at least 3/4). At the next fill up divide the number of miles on the trip odometer by the gallons required to fill it back up, and that's your MPG. Do this about 3-5 times to get your real average MPG. The closer you get to an empty tank when calculating, the more accurate it'll be. There are a lot of minor errors in this and by calculating over a longer span, it helps to negate the errors versus calculating when you still have 3/4 tank left.

[IrishMidak]

Wow, this topic snowballed way the hell outside the topic. Again, question is how do I make the car more economical, not my driving style. For the idiot who said I cant afford it, I can. Its not about the extra .05 per gallon, its the $1.50 more per gallon since I got the car a year ago and the $1.50 more we will be paying by next year so I am talking about the $3 extra per gallon I will be paying since I got the car. Now, at 20k miles average per year for me, increasing my mileage an extra 5 miles per gallon adds up. That, and I am sick and tired of paying these liars and thieves what they claim gas costs. Seems no one has any real answers here so I'm done with this one.

[nate0123]

Wow, this topic snowballed way the hell outside the topic. Again, question is how do I make the car more economical, not my driving style. For the idiot who said I cant afford it, I can. Its not about the extra .05 per gallon, its the $1.50 more per gallon since I got the car a year ago and the $1.50 more we will be paying by next year so I am talking about the $3 extra per gallon I will be paying since I got the car. Now, at 20k miles average per year for me, increasing my mileage an extra 5 miles per gallon adds up. That, and I am sick and tired of paying these liars and thieves what they claim gas costs. Seems no one has any real answers here so I'm done with this one.
If you're not willing to change your driving style, there is nothing that can be done. You can buy a 1.5l civic, drive it like an ass, and get 22 mpg.

[Sacrilicious]

If you're not willing to change your driving style, there is nothing that can be done. You can buy a 1.5l civic, drive it like an ass, and get 22 mpg.

i think that he just didn't read all our posts carefully enough and got carried away with a few that he took personally.

bottom line:

1. keep light on the throttle.
2. don't try to accelerate when you're not in the car's power band.
3. stay in the highest gear possible while still following 1. and 2.

read back if you need clarifications on any of these points.

[builthatch]

Wow, this topic snowballed way the hell outside the topic. Again, question is how do I make the car more economical, not my driving style. For the idiot who said I cant afford it, I can. Its not about the extra .05 per gallon, its the $1.50 more per gallon since I got the car a year ago and the $1.50 more we will be paying by next year so I am talking about the $3 extra per gallon I will be paying since I got the car. Now, at 20k miles average per year for me, increasing my mileage an extra 5 miles per gallon adds up. That, and I am sick and tired of paying these liars and thieves what they claim gas costs. Seems no one has any real answers here so I'm done with this one.

it's probably that there are no "real" answers; anything you do to the car to physically modify it for economy will cost too much money to genuinely offset even these $3 price increases you are predicting, let alone more realistic total increases of half that. the only real variable here is driving style, hence why i mentioned it and why it's been mentioned so many times.

Also, I used the 30 cents increase as an example for me because that is the average increase i've seen in the 4 months i've had the car, and also that is the average difference between 87 and 93- so the math for the price difference is the same for anyone who mentions using regular instead of premium.

honestly, if you buy a car that requires premium, makes alot of power, and you drive 20k a year...this is what happens; it's a perfect case of the old addage "you have to pay to play". if you can afford it like you say, don't worry about it because there is nothing you can do. you can't help the fuel costs and you can't change the fact that the car is what it is. if you can't handle the prices, and you truly believe fuel is going to go up a total of $3 from how much it was when you got the car, then this car is not the right match for you.

PS- i am pretty careful with my money, and i have a high appreciation for what it takes to earn it. i don't necessarily waste money, but i do know when it's appropriate to spend it. When i buy a lawnmower, i get the one that will last me forever, a Honda. i understand if that expense is truly worth it. do you know i don't even look at the gas prices when i pull into the station? I just filled up yesterday, i can't even tell you what it was per gallon. there is no psychology behind that, and it's not me trying to fool myself, all i know is it cost me about $45 to put fuel in the tank and that is what i needed to do to enjoy the car and get around. cars are supposed to be fun and they are if you prioritize and don't dwell on the uncontrollable or inevitable. i have never, ever complained ONCE about gas prices because if i realize if i am essentially wasting money on one thing in my life, and it's the thing that lets me enjoy my car like i do, i'm doing pretty well.

[lestat13]

if i am essentially wasting money on one thing in my life, and it's the thing that lets me enjoy my car like i do, i'm doing pretty well.

well said!! (friday)

even though I do worry about gas, a simple statement like that really puts life in perspective. forget about gas prices a minute and enjoy the car. i love driving around, music up, windows down, and enjoying life. all my worries and bills go away when i'm driving. if you love the car, the gas prices are worth it!!(iagree)

[clos561]

+1

yes, i do enjoy doing just that, because it teaches me way more than just how to save gas. simply observing the MAP under varying throttle pressures, loads, etc. can teach you a lot about how your car's ECU commands the engine. to take things farther, this is the main reason people get the Dash Hawk: to log and observe how the ECU responds to a variety of parameters.

as anal and overly-analytical as it may sound, these are the kind of things that people do to teach themselves how to tune and tweak their engines.

Sacrilicious FTW!

[MS3077]

Sacrilicious FTW!


Being anal FTL!!!!!!!!!

[Sacrilicious]

Being anal FTL!!!!!!!!!

dude, you're in a car enthusiasts forum where people are willing to spend days of their free time and pay $2k+ to mod, tune, and tweak their cars for an extra 40whp...what's wrong with being anal and overly-analytical? (dunno)

[MS3077]

dude, you're in a car enthusiasts forum where people are willing to spend days of their free time and pay $2k+ to mod, tune, and tweak their cars for an extra 40whp...what's wrong with being anal and overly-analytical? (dunno)

I like cars just as much as the next guy but I leave the "tuning" to the people that get paid for it. I mean I'll read up on shit, etc but I don't like to get too deep into it as it gives me a headache. Now if I was getting paid to be anal no problem. I'll invest in my car but the only thing I'll actually touch with it is bolt-on's.. If you are a "tuner" I suppose that would be a different story. Maybe you could make a "tech" thread and talk about technical stuff. I bet you would really enjoy that.

[MS3077]

I gotta get back to work (inout)

[Sacrilicious]

I like cars just as much as the next guy but I leave the "tuning" to the people that get paid for it. I mean I'll read up on shit, etc but I don't like to get too deep into it as it gives me a headache. Now if I was getting paid to be anal no problem. I'll invest in my car but the only thing I'll actually touch with it is bolt-on's.. If you are a "tuner" I suppose that would be a different story. Maybe you could make a "tech" thread and talk about technical stuff. I bet you would really enjoy that.

naw, i'm not a tuner, but i am an engineer, so whether i actually go crazy tuning is completely secondary...i just want to take things apart and figure out how they tick...:D

[haberdashery]

very well said builthatch. this car is a bit of a stretch for me to afford, but i am willing to take that into consideration and i am becoming increasingly careful about my money spending, keeping in mind that i work my ass off for it. pack a lunch for work rather than going out, clip coupons, hell anything that helps every little bit, and dont worry about the extra 3$ you're paying to fill up your tank with 91 octane as opposed to 93 octane. trading your ms3 in for a honda fit will end up being far more expensive than the difference in gas, considering the depreciation as well as the saturation of the market on the selling/trading of your car now.

im coming from a regular mazda3 to a mazdaspeed3 here, the mazda3 gets better gas mileage i guess, but nothing substantial. im in the opposite standpoint as you, i want to get a fun, gas guzzling (if you choose to floor it everywhere) forced induction car that i can enjoy, because if i dont now, im going to be pissed if/when we're all forced out of our cars and into fucking prius' or something to save fuel.

[builthatch]

naw, i'm not a tuner, but i am an engineer, so whether i actually go crazy tuning is completely secondary...i just want to take things apart and figure out how they tick...:D

hey- i agree with you here; there is nothing wrong with being informed, and satiating curiosity. i, like you, love technical stuff and mechanical technology, from cold war era jets to mazda DISI engines. the more you know, the better you feel as you walk around this constantly evolving world. It's nice to get your car tuned or install a part and actually know what it does and how/why...

that said, no offense, but i am not sure (where) MS077 is coming from with the last post he issued (dunno). why bash someone for explaining technical nuances? If people like Sacrilicious weren't around, we'd be stuck driving stock vehicles around, moreover, you can bet they would have holes through the floor for foot power :)

[mckraut]

that said, no offense, but i am not sure MS077 is coming from with the last post he issued (dunno). why bash someone for explaining technical nuances?

Read some of his other posts, he's a forum troll always looking to get a bash, insult or smart ass comment in.

[yashart_mp3]

I also think these numbers are off. I'm averaging close to 30 mpg with mine, 60% HWY / 40% City. That combined with your trip computer being THAT far off sounds fishy to me.

I almost hate to ask, but are you sure you're calculating correctly?

At your next fill up, reset the trip odometer. Burn up as much of that tank full as you can (at least 3/4). At the next fill up divide the number of miles on the trip odometer by the gallons required to fill it back up, and that's your MPG. Do this about 3-5 times to get your real average MPG. The closer you get to an empty tank when calculating, the more accurate it'll be. There are a lot of minor errors in this and by calculating over a longer span, it helps to negate the errors versus calculating when you still have 3/4 tank left.

Yup, I was calculating it correctly. I always drive until the light comes on (~2gal left). Unless I have forgotten how to divide, the numbers always come out around 20-21, with conservative driving.

My only other guess is that the people who are getting 28+mpg must be in areas with warmer weather. We're just starting to break 60* here, and that seems to be helping somewhat.

Also, call me retarded if you like, but by logic there really isn't any reason to "calculate" what kind of MPG you are getting (in my case anyway). I fill up the tank everytime I get gas... I pull into the gas station when the light is on. Simply looking at the trip odometer will tell you how far you've gone on that last tank of gas. Of course you could inflate the numbers by driving up and down the road, in circles to increase that number, but generally speaking, its usually going to be around the same number ~ 240-280.

[MS3077]

hey- i agree with you here; there is nothing wrong with being informed, and satiating curiosity. i, like you, love technical stuff and mechanical technology, from cold war era jets to mazda DISI engines. the more you know, the better you feel as you walk around this constantly evolving world. It's nice to get your car tuned or install a part and actually know what it does and how/why...

that said, no offense, but i am not sure (where) MS077 is coming from with the last post he issued (dunno). why bash someone for explaining technical nuances? If people like Sacrilicious weren't around, we'd be stuck driving stock vehicles around, moreover, you can bet they would have holes through the floor for foot power :)

Ha-ha! I wasn't trying to "bash" anybody. I just simply think that said dude is getting in a little too deep for the avgerage person on this forum. I don't doubt that some of you have a vast array of knowledge but I would only take what you say with a very small grain of salt. If I really wanted to learn about different technologies, etc I would go to school for it and or read up on a more reliable source than a public forum as would must others I'm sure.

[Sacrilicious]

honestly, you'd be surprised how much you can learn from public forums like this. as with life, learning about car modding/tuning is an exercise in learning how to filter the things you read using your own logic and independent research. ya, some of the stuff you pick up will be bogus claims like "OH CRAP I JUST GOT 20WHP FROM A COFFEE CAN I BOLTED ONTO MY TAILPIPE! (eek2)", but there will be plenty of other things that actually make a lot of sense and will help you figure out a lot of the details on your own.

i take some of the facts posted on here (and other public forums) seriously because i enjoy the challenge of the learning experience...that and i love tinkering...:D also, bullshit filtering is a very useful skill in many other parts of life. it never hurts to be creative with how you learn from things...=d

[FrancoNemo]

i have the solution! for those who want to save money on gas!!!
lets trade! lol i couldnt get the speed3 bc i didnt have enough for down payment! lol soo even trade anyone!? lol
look at the bright side pump 87. cheaper insurance. safer (bc u wont go fast lol). and u still have the comfort and nice looks or the 3!!
anyone?
lmao

[tripledigits]

Coasting in neutral is not the way to save fuel. When the car is at idle throttle in gear (no load), the fuel shuts off completely. When the car is idling in neutral, it's burning about .25 gallons per hour, according to my ScanGauge. This is common to most newer cars.

[Sacrilicious]

Coasting in neutral is not the way to save fuel. When the car is at idle throttle in gear (no load), the fuel shuts off completely. When the car is idling in neutral, it's burning about .25 gallons per hour, according to my ScanGauge. This is common to most newer cars.

yup...i always thought this was the case, and i just confirmed it recently with my shiny new dash hawk...engine braking 4tw! :D

[FrequentFlyer]

Also, i don't know where you guys are getting your gas numbers from. Regular gas here is about $3.68, premium is $4.08 at the cheapest shell gas station in the area. Another gripe i have is that i dont get anywhere near 28mpg on the highway. 95% of my commute is on the highway, and i've only gotten over 280 miles to the tank once since owning this car. I set cruise control on the highway @ 65-70, and i try to drive it like grandma. If I were actually getting 28mpg, i wouldn't even be posting this... but since i average about 20mpg, drive 22k+ miles a year, and have to full up @ $4.08 a gallon, i'm really starting to look else where....

I'm doing the exact opposite. Selling my '05 RSX Type-S for an MS3. I drive about 30k a year, mostly highway (up and down I-295 from South Jersey). I average 28-29mpg with the RSX. My wife and I just had a baby though, so I want something 4 door. I don't see why someone couldn't get near 29mpg in the MS3 if they drove like grandma. Just gotta stay out of boost.

Another thing to avoid is tailgating. Give yourself enough room to coast when someone steps on their brakes in front of you. I know most people in this area aren't happy unless they're 2 feet off the bumper of the car in front of them. If you're doing 70mph 2 feet off someone's bumper, you can do 70mph 4-5 car lengths behind them also. You're not getting anywhere sooner tailgating.

Anyway, if you're interested in an RSX, come across the river (Deptford, NJ area) and take a look at mine. :D

[desertrat]

I'm doing the exact opposite. Selling my '05 RSX Type-S for an MS3. I drive about 30k a year, mostly highway (up and down I-295 from South Jersey). I average 28-29mpg with the RSX. My wife and I just had a baby though, so I want something 4 door. I don't see why someone couldn't get near 29mpg in the MS3 if they drove like grandma. Just gotta stay out of boost.

Another thing to avoid is tailgating. Give yourself enough room to coast when someone steps on their brakes in front of you. I know most people in this area aren't happy unless they're 2 feet off the bumper of the car in front of them. If you're doing 70mph 2 feet off someone's bumper, you can do 70mph 4-5 car lengths behind them also. You're not getting anywhere sooner tailgating.

Anyway, if you're interested in an RSX, come across the river (Deptford, NJ area) and take a look at mine. :D

CONGRADULATIONS! My wife and I had a baby back in Jan. That was one of the main reasons I bought my MS3. 4 door, cargo space, its great. The car seat takes up some space so I hope your wife is short. lol

I very consistantly get 24 mpg, and I drive it preaty hard. I live in NM and the highest octane you can get is 91 and some stations have 90 $3.63 a gal

[clos561]

Coasting in neutral is not the way to save fuel. When the car is at idle throttle in gear (no load), the fuel shuts off completely. When the car is idling in neutral, it's burning about .25 gallons per hour, according to my ScanGauge. This is common to most newer cars.

i coast downhill only, that saves gas

[happy and angry]

Coasting in neutral never saves gas when compared to coasting in gear. Ever. At any point.

In neutral, something needs to be keeping the engine turning when you are off throttle, and that something is fuel.

In gear, something needs to be keeping the engine turning when you are off throttle, and that something is momentum. Your injectors shut off entirely and you burn zero fuel.

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

i coast downhill only, that saves gas

If you want to get your kicks on the daily commute and not get hosed by your gas bill, buy a motorcycle.
Having said that, I'm getting rid of mine because I'm tired of dodging idiots in cages that aren't paying attention or have this overblown impression of just how nimble 800 pounds of combined rider and cruiser style bike is and just assume I'll be able to adjust for whatever jackass move they make.
Okay, rant over.

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

the trip computer is garbage. the only thing it might be useful for is seeing general trends.

You think so? Mine must be the exception to the rule, because the few times I tested it by actually doing the math, it was always within .5 mpg of the calculated results.

My car doesn't seem to care how I drive it. I always get just about 25mpg. Only engine mod at this point is an MS-CAI. In all honesty, I have never deliberately burned through an entire tank ripping and running as fast as I could, so I have no idea how low it could go. I also am incapable of driving like somebody's grandmother (unless she's the inspiration for "The Little Old Lady from Pasadena") for an entire tankful, so I don't know just how good it could get. I can say that whether I make my best effort to be conservative or just drive, it makes no appreciable difference.

[builthatch]

You think so? Mine must be the exception to the rule, because the few times I tested it by actually doing the math, it was always within .5 mpg of the calculated results.

My car doesn't seem to care how I drive it. I always get just about 25mpg. Only engine mod at this point is an MS-CAI. In all honesty, I have never deliberately burned through an entire tank ripping and running as fast as I could, so I have no idea how low it could go. I also am incapable of driving like somebody's grandmother (unless she's the inspiration for "The Little Old Lady from Pasadena") for an entire tankful, so I don't know just how good it could get. I can say that whether I make my best effort to be conservative or just drive, it makes no appreciable difference.

me too on both accounts, in regard to the computer as well as the overall mileage; mine is pretty accurate compared to manual math i've done. also, i am always around 24mpg even when it seems as if i took it easy for a while or i got in it often. general driving facts for me are that i rarely ever drive longer than 10 miles a trip, and i accelerate briskly often. i think the median driving style is the same for me and it overcomes any exceptions.

another thing to think about here too is weight. while it might be negligible, i am almost 330lbs and have a 12" sub and box in the back. also, when the gas tank is full, that is like 115lbs of fuel. sometimes i have my 130lb wife in there too. all of this adds up- you gotta figure that if the tank is full, sub is in the trunk and we are both in the car we have increased the car's weight 600lbs or so.

[Sacrilicious]

You think so? Mine must be the exception to the rule, because the few times I tested it by actually doing the math, it was always within .5 mpg of the calculated results.

My car doesn't seem to care how I drive it. I always get just about 25mpg. Only engine mod at this point is an MS-CAI. In all honesty, I have never deliberately burned through an entire tank ripping and running as fast as I could, so I have no idea how low it could go. I also am incapable of driving like somebody's grandmother (unless she's the inspiration for "The Little Old Lady from Pasadena") for an entire tankful, so I don't know just how good it could get. I can say that whether I make my best effort to be conservative or just drive, it makes no appreciable difference.

ooo...that's good stuff, man. most of the other people i've heard from have had miserable accuracy (like me) from their trip meter...=/

[Sacrilicious]

me too on both accounts, in regard to the computer as well as the overall mileage; mine is pretty accurate compared to manual math i've done. also, i am always around 24mpg even when it seems as if i took it easy for a while or i got in it often. general driving facts for me are that i rarely ever drive longer than 10 miles a trip, and i accelerate briskly often. i think the median driving style is the same for me and it overcomes any exceptions.

another thing to think about here too is weight. while it might be negligible, i am almost 330lbs and have a 12" sub and box in the back. also, when the gas tank is full, that is like 115lbs of fuel. sometimes i have my 130lb wife in there too. all of this adds up- you gotta figure that if the tank is full, sub is in the trunk and we are both in the car we have increased the car's weight 600lbs or so.

ya, that may explain things. i weigh about 180lb and don't carry anything i don't need in the car...:D

[mordant80]

Here's some general techniques that are supposed to help with fuel economy... http://hypermiling.com/car-mpg.html

[nate0123]

just to remind everyone, the original poster has no intention of changing his driving style
Again, question is how do I make the car more economical, not my driving style.
he wants the car to just use less gas, by itself, with no change from him

maybe he wants 2 of his cylinders to deactivate when they're not being used (hah)

[happy and angry]

ooo...that's good stuff, man. most of the other people i've heard from have had miserable accuracy (like me) from their trip meter...=/Do you reset your average fuel economy meter and your trip calc on a tank when you want to look at numbers? The average fuel economy meter measures from the last time it was reset, which in some people's case might be thousands of miles.

For 10,000 miles, if you've averaged about 24 mpg, and then put in a tank of gas and drive it real hard, those 200 miles of 18 mpg driving aren't going to change the average number much if at all, your tank will get a fraction of what it usually does, and you might think the average fuel economy meter is a pile of crap. Could that be the problem some people are having?

[Betelgeuse]

just to remind everyone, the original poster has no intention of changing his driving style
he wants the car to just use less gas, by itself, with no change from him

maybe he wants 2 of his cylinders to deactivate when they're not being used (hah)

Well he can completely gut the interior to bare metal and use a milk crate for a seat. That should tack on a mile or two. Or take it even further, cut the roof off and make it a convertible.

[Sacrilicious]

just to remind everyone, the original poster has no intention of changing his driving style
he wants the car to just use less gas, by itself, with no change from him

maybe he wants 2 of his cylinders to deactivate when they're not being used (hah)

ya, i feel like an idiot for misreading...:D

other than running a few psi higher in the tires, there's not a whole lot of easy mods to do that i can think of...=d

[Sacrilicious]

Well he can completely gut the interior to bare metal and use a milk crate for a seat. That should tack on a mile or two. Or take it even further, cut the roof off and make it a convertible.

a convertible would have HUGE coefficient of drag! ;) he COULD just put a big plastic bubble over the top...:D

[Sacrilicious]

Do you reset your average fuel economy meter and your trip calc on a tank when you want to look at numbers? The average fuel economy meter measures from the last time it was reset, which in some people's case might be thousands of miles.

For 10,000 miles, if you've averaged about 24 mpg, and then put in a tank of gas and drive it real hard, those 200 miles of 18 mpg driving aren't going to change the average number much if at all, your tank will get a fraction of what it usually does, and you might think the average fuel economy meter is a pile of crap. Could that be the problem some people are having?

ya, i definitely reset my trip calc at the start of every tank. it seems to be getting more accurate with warmer weather, though. it's only off by 1-2mpg now when it used to be off by 3-4 in the winter...=d

[robin2660]

My gas costs have gone up astronomically since I bought such a fun car to drive. I drive more now than when I was commuting.

In my case, increasing gas prices aren't the prime factor in my car budget.

[builthatch]

In my case, increasing gas prices aren't the prime factor in my car budget.

well, duh! haha

if you tried to rationalize acquiring a turbo, 6spd, 4cyl car with "speed" in the name fr0m the fuel economy angle, that would be an interesting presentation.

[Sacrilicious]

well, duh! haha

if you tried to rationalize acquiring a turbo, 6spd, 4cyl car with "speed" in the name fr0m the fuel economy angle, that would be an interesting presentation.

well, the coffee can on the back of our car is especially effective for letting people know that we go FAST and they should GTFO of our way. this directly results in less stop and go, since we just get to GO! (drive2)

[happy and angry]

How do they see it on the back of our car and get out of our way when if they are in our way they are ahead of us?

Should we install forward facing coffee cans?

[Sacrilicious]

How do they see it on the back of our car and get out of our way when if they are in our way they are ahead of us?

Should we install forward facing coffee cans?

oh, they have no need to SEE it...they will hear it from a mile away! (eek2)

[MP5World]

My 2003 MP5 Stock with only K&N Air Filter in Stock Airbox and Nitrogen in my Kumho Tires and I average 35 MPG on Highway doing 70 MPH. That is more than the Sticker says it is suppoise to get new. and I have close to 70,000 Miles on it. I only Change the oil and check fluids every 3000 Miles. Cheap car to drive and still fun. I Love It!!! Looking to get more air in and Better exhaust, But I think that will only help More HP with less RPM,S ? I could be wrong ... Good Luck Steve

[MS3077]

My 2003 MP5 Stock with only K&N Air Filter in Stock Airbox and Nitrogen in my Kumho Tires and I average 35 MPG on Highway doing 70 MPH. That is more than the Sticker says it is suppoise to get new. and I have close to 70,000 Miles on it. I only Change the oil and check fluids every 3000 Miles. Cheap car to drive and still fun. I Love It!!! Looking to get more air in and Better exhaust, But I think that will only help More HP with less RPM,S ? I could be wrong ... Good Luck Steve

You do know that this is a Mazdaspeed3 thread right? The MS3 has a whole lot more power than a 2003 MP5 so of course it's not going to get 35mpg.

[GullyBoy21]

I got 400 miles in one Tank. I did everything from crusing @ 55-65 in the high way, accelirating slow in the city, and keeping it at low Rpms.(breakn) This means i got 30 mpg city/highway right? muahahaha(nana)

[nate0123]

I got 400 miles in one Tank. I did everything from crusing @ 55-65 in the high way, accelirating slow in the city, and keeping it at low Rpms.(breakn) This means i got 30 mpg city/highway right? muahahaha(nana)
you'd need to record the gallons required to refill to full to calculate the mileage

[PeterC]

shifting at 2krpms is not necessarily the best thing for gas mileage. it basically means that you may end up pushing down harder on the throttle than you should have to in order to get acceleration. as happy and angry says, it means that you're actually trying to push the car outside of its power band, and that's not the efficient way to use your fuel.

here's some info for a more technical explanation:

at <2krpms, if you press down moderately hard on the throttle, you will see the MAP go from -20vac to 0psi very easily. doing the same thing at >3krpms, you might hit like -10vac.

what does this mean? well, if you get a Dash Hawk, you will see that our cars run at an AFR of about 14.x most of the time (unless you're not pressing down on the throttle or you're boosting). AFR = air/fuel ratio, so if your air/fuel ratio is staying about the same, but your MAP just shot way up, your ECU will fire up the fuel injector pressure in order to squirt way more gas into the engine cylinders to maintain its commanded AFR. when you're outside of your power band, it can cost you more fuel to get the same amount of acceleration out of your engine as compared to being in a lower gear but staying within your power band. the lower gear may be running at higher RPMS (more total detonations), but because it's running at a significantly lower MAP, which means significantly less fuel is injected into the cylinder per detonation, the total fuel burned may actually be less under the same acceleration conditions.

the above conditions are why i asked yashart if he was driving slightly uphill for extended periods of time, because that is a perfect example of a cruise condition where being in a higher gear may actually hurt you, since you will have to apply more throttle pressure to maintain your speed than if you were in a lower gear.

anyways...this is just another angle for you to try. give it a shot sometime and see if it helps you, because your current method seems not to be working as well as it could...=/ this, btw, is why i think boost gauges help...because you can see exactly how far into the vac you are.

Thanks for the info! I have always wondered if even in a high gear if I floored it that it used more gas even though I wasn't going anywhere. I just assumed gas mileage was only correlated to RPM and turbo spool, not throttle application. I will adjust and see what happens.

[GullyBoy21]

Simple math you butt muncher, and yes i did the calculation.
(lol)

[nate0123]

Simple math you butt muncher, and yes i did the calculation.
(lol)
well, you were asking like you weren't sure (hand)

[stockms3]

Dont drive it just stare at it :D

[nate0123]

(mswerd)

infinite mileage

[Da 6]

LOL gauge is good to see where you are when cruising as well as initial take off. MPG or not you should have one. I can tell when I am gonna get a leak(as in lose another line again). Not 100% needed for mpg but helps alot if you got it. Who says he isn't already doing good mpg habits?

[Sacrilicious]

Thanks for the info! I have always wondered if even in a high gear if I floored it that it used more gas even though I wasn't going anywhere. I just assumed gas mileage was only correlated to RPM and turbo spool, not throttle application. I will adjust and see what happens.

ya, i confirmed this with a dash hawk, because the latest firmware allows for logging of fuel usage. it's measured in mg/cylinder of gasoline, and it goes INSANE if you go from just cruising with a light foot on the gas pedal at lower rpms to stomping it...even though you got like next to no acceleration...=/

[2000VRsex]

1- SELL IT
2- don't race at all
3- tune it to use low octane fuel
4- change oil constantly
5- check tire pressure constantly
6- loose weight (you, not the car)
7- no fat people allowed in your car
8- no long trips
9-shut off the engine at red-lights
10- shut off the engine while cruising down hill
11- get rid of your girlfriend (useless extra weight)


that's all i cna think off....

other than...it is a performance car and people don't buy it to save gas...




not sure if this has been brought up since I didnt read the rest but, doesnt your car use more gas turning it off and on then letting it sit? ive always read that you only shut off if you sitting there for more than like 10mins,which would be crazy to not move at a stop light lol...correct me if im worng but thats what ive always read

[robin2660]

not sure if this has been brought up since I didnt read the rest but, doesnt your car use more gas turning it off and on then letting it sit? ive always read that you only shut off if you sitting there for more than like 10mins,which would be crazy to not move at a stop light lol...correct me if im worng but thats what ive always read

Translation: "That's what I heard once." (spin)

[07speed3]

ya, i confirmed this with a dash hawk, because the latest firmware allows for logging of fuel usage. it's measured in mg/cylinder of gasoline, and it goes INSANE if you go from just cruising with a light foot on the gas pedal at lower rpms to stomping it...even though you got like next to no acceleration...=/

is that why theres that puff of black smoke when you stomp on it?

[Sacrilicious]

is that why theres that puff of black smoke when you stomp on it?

oh, i think you're thinking more of the puff we get when we blast it with our turbo. that's from the engine running rich and spewing out gas-rich fuses into our exhaust...:D

[IrishMidak]

just to remind everyone, the original poster has no intention of changing his driving style
he wants the car to just use less gas, by itself, with no change from him

maybe he wants 2 of his cylinders to deactivate when they're not being used (hah)

Where did I say that? I was looking for ways to make the car more economical, not my driving. Never said I did not change my driving style nor did I say I did not know how. The topic was "Anyway to make the MS3 more economical?" Not, "Anyway to make me a more economical driver?"
(fu)

[MS3077]

lol

[builthatch]

Where did I say that? I was looking for ways to make the car more economical, not my driving. Never said I did not change my driving style nor did I say I did not know how. The topic was "Anyway to make the MS3 more economical?" Not, "Anyway to make me a more economical driver?"
(fu)

y0, why so hot? you started this thread on a public forum; consider the fact that people have provided info, good or bad, and stop being so agitated for no reason...

you've entered quite a few hot responses on here directed toward the members.

[MS3077]

y0, why so hot? you started this thread on a public forum; consider the fact that people have provided info, good or bad, and stop being so agitated for no reason...

you've entered quite a few hot responses on here directed toward the members.

Probably, but he's also been insulted by members as well. Maybe not directly but indirectly

[IrishMidak]

y0, why so hot? you started this thread on a public forum; consider the fact that people have provided info, good or bad, and stop being so agitated for no reason...

you've entered quite a few hot responses on here directed toward the members.

Hot is a strong word here and it was just toward Nate who felt the need to wrongly state I refused to change my driving habbits so this is pointless. I know some of you tried to offer some decent info but I could not find any response here that actually addresses the car.
Bottom line is, I want to burn less gas, regardless of the cost. I know how to drive, been doing it for 18 years. I know how to drive conservatively when needed. What I don't know is how, if possible, I can make the car burn less gas, driving style aside. That said, there does not seem to be any real answers here so I'll just let it go.

[MS3077]

Here's some basic gas saving tips I found off the internet:

1. Take public transportation. It makes sense to take the train or the bus for your regular daily commute. Depending on where you live, you may be able to take public transportation for some of your errands as well.
2. Carpool whenever possible. Whether to work or just running the kids to their lessons and activities, you can conserve gas by arranging a carpool with coworkers or friends. When everyone takes a turn driving the whole group rather than taking separate vehicles, everyone saves money and it's better for the environment, too.
3. Use people power. For short jaunts, walk or ride a bicycle. You'll save gas, wear and tear on your vehicle, and you'll get healthier in the process!
4. Try to combine your errands into fewer trips. Instead of running out several times a week, try to make all of your stops in one well-planned trip.
5. Buy in bulk. Buy nonperishable items in bulk to save trips to the store. If you watch the sales, you will save money both on gas and on your purchases as well. You might want to consider joining a warehouse club if there is one near your home or work.
6. Work at home. Ask your employer about the possibility of telecommuting, at least for part of the week.
7. Fuel mileage matters. When shopping for a new or used vehicle, pay close attention to the all-important fuel mileage numbers. The difference of even a few miles per gallon is quite significant when you consider that you will be putting thousands of miles on your car. You may also want to consider purchasing a hybrid or alternative fuel vehicle.
8. Keep up with basic car maintenance. Getting regular tune-ups will not only make your car more reliable, it will make it burn gas more efficiently, too. Be certain that your air filters are clean--diminished air flow will cost you money at the pump.
9. Read your owner's manual and always use the manufacturer's recommended grade of motor oil--this will improve your gas mileage by 1 to 2 percent. When possible, choose an oil that is labeled "energy conserving." Those oils contain friction-reducing additives.
10. Pump up your tires. Keep your tires inflated to the manufacturer's recommendations. Soft, under-inflated tires make the car work harder, burning more gas.
11. Lighten your load. Try not to carry extra weight in your car. The lighter your load, the better your gas mileage.
12. Get some fresh air. Running the air conditioner lowers your gas mileage, so unroll your windows and enjoy Mother Nature's free air conditioning!
13. Slow down. Cruising down the highway at 55 miles per hour is much more cost efficient than racing to your destination. Even a small difference in speed makes a noticeable improvement; maintaining your speed at 55 is 15% more efficient than driving at 65. You'll conserve gas and possibly save yourself from getting a very expensive traffic ticket!
14. Start and stop gently. Ease onto the gas pedal when starting rather than punching the accelerator. When coming to a stop, ease off the gas pedal in advance and coast a little.
15. Shut off the engine. If you have to wait for more than two minutes, it is cost efficient to shut off the engine. Restarting burns less fuel that idling for that long.
16. Get the best buy at the pump. Fill your gas tank at the coolest times of day--usually early morning or late evening. Gas is denser at these times and gasoline is sold by volume, so you'll actually get more gas for your money!

[nate0123]

Where did I say that? I was looking for ways to make the car more economical, not my driving. Never said I did not change my driving style nor did I say I did not know how. The topic was "Anyway to make the MS3 more economical?" Not, "Anyway to make me a more economical driver?"
(fu)that's because there is no magic bullet that makes the car more efficient

perhaps using engine management to tune the car and lean out the AFR, but there's a large investment there, and the car is probably not running rich at partial throttle anyway

[chacon101]

If I may ask, what sort of responses did you expect to get? You were you thinking of maybe a chip that had a high mileage feature?

Besides the driver mod, I can't think of much else you can do but then again, I have never thought about it. Could you try some tires that are designed for less resistance or something?

[nate0123]

If I may ask, what sort of responses did you expect to get? You were you thinking of maybe a chip that had a high mileage feature?

Besides the driver mod, I can't think of much else you can do but then again, I have never thought about it. Could you try some tires that are designed for less resistance or something?
good point, get the smallest, lightest wheels that will fit over the calipers, and the narrowest tire that will fit on those wheels

a tire with a hard compound will grip less - bad for performance, good for MPG

[chacon101]

Right, like they do on the salt flats for less resistance.

[chacon101]

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this either but what about nitrogen in the tires?

[mordant80]

You were you thinking of maybe a chip that had a high mileage feature?


That reminds me, I was looking at some of the maps for the cobb AP for other cars and they have maps specifically for gas economy that makes the car run leaner. That would be great if they have that for our car when released.


good point, get the smallest, lightest wheels that will fit over the calipers, and the narrowest tire that will fit on those wheels, a tire with a hard compound will grip less - bad for performance, good for MPG

Just wanted to point out that you do not want any less of a diameter. That would lower your overall gear ratio which I think would hurt, not help. But everything else would help, lighter wheels, narrow tire with a harder compound.

[Sacrilicious]

Just wanted to point out that you do not want any less of a diameter. That would lower your overall gear ratio which I think would hurt, not help. But everything else would help, lighter wheels, narrow tire with a harder compound.

i think you're referring to tire diameter and not wheel diameter. the tire diameter is what would mess with you tach and whatnot...the wheel diameter would merely affect the weight distribution within the tire+wheel assembly.

[chacon101]

I know this may sound silly but couldn't a healthy coat of wax also make it cruise better on the highway? If somebody did a lot of highway crusing (for work or whatever), could a slicker surface actually increase the ease of airflow around the car?

I know this would have a small impact if any but I was thinking over the course of a few months or a whole year.

[Sacrilicious]

I know this may sound silly but couldn't a healthy coat of wax also make it cruise better on the highway? If somebody did a lot of highway crusing (for work or whatever), could a slicker surface actually increase the ease of airflow around the car?

I know this would have a small impact if any but I was thinking over the course of a few months or a whole year.

haha...not silly at all, actually. i would love for someone to put our car into a wind tunnel and see how it affects things. i would really like to see how much of a difference this makes on coefficient of drag when you compare a slick waxed-up car with one that's covered in bugs/pollen...=d

EDIT: which leads, of course, to the reason why this might be impractical for long roadtrips: you would be killing bugs like mad the whole way...:D

[mordant80]

i think you're referring to tire diameter and not wheel diameter. the tire diameter is what would mess with you tach and whatnot...the wheel diameter would merely affect the weight distribution within the tire+wheel assembly.

right right, just gotta make sure you get a taller tire to make up the difference.

[Sacrilicious]

right right, just gotta make sure you get a taller tire to make up the difference.

definitely...a good example is going from 215/45/18->215/50/17...it's really really close to our stock tire diameter...=d

[MS3Buckeye]

I don't think nitrogen in the tires does anything, nor would a wax. These simply play too small a role for a change to make a measurable difference, much less a noticable one. Remember, air is 78% nitrogen anyway!

[MS3077]

I don't think nitrogen in the tires does anything, nor would a wax. These simply play too small a role for a change to make a measurable difference, much less a noticable one. Remember, air is 78% nitrogen anyway!

+1

Some people are you entirely way way too anal about this!!!!!!!

[IrishMidak]

Well, without the turbo kicking in every 10 minutes, the car has the potential to conserve gas. Two tanks ago, just going to and from work (32 miles per day) and using cruise at 65, I got just short of 23mpg. This weekend, on a 450 mile ride, with only 3 short stops, cruise set 70-75, I made just over 30mpg. Now, maybe its just me but staying out of turbo while getting on the highway is not possible unless I take a minute or two to get to 65. That said, I am not giving serious consideration to getting one of the available computer solutions that offers an economy mode. My only concern there is that I have the MS CAI and the new mapping would further lien out the AFR. May be something I could try after warranty is up next year.

[builthatch]

This weekend, on a 450 mile ride, with only 3 short stops, cruise set 70-75, I made just over 30mpg.

this happened to me recently too; i was doing a majority of highway driving, but not uber long trips, maybe 90 miles was the longest, but with cruise set at 72, over the course of about 3/4 tank and several days, i was hovering right around 30mpg. this was with some bursts and stops and goes near my house and in the area, but the majority was deep vacuum cruising. the tank is about empty now and i'm at 27 and change.

that is about 3-4mpg over my norm, but like i've said before, i primarily do relatively short trips <10-15 miles, I go into boost pretty often, and my car is heavy with me-fuel-wife-sub-etc in it.

[lestat13]

this happened to me recently too; i was doing a majority of highway driving, but not uber long trips, maybe 90 miles was the longest, but with cruise set at 72, over the course of about 3/4 tank and several days, i was hovering right around 30mpg. this was with some bursts and stops and goes near my house and in the area, but the majority was deep vacuum cruising. the tank is about empty now and i'm at 27 and change.

that is about 3-4mpg over my norm, but like i've said before, i primarily do relatively short trips <10-15 miles, I go into boost pretty often, and my car is heavy with me-fuel-wife-sub-etc in it.

How deep is "deep vacuum" cruising? To keep my speed consistent on the highway, my dashhawk tells me I am at about 12 vac using my foot, and between 8-10 with cruise control on. So, how deep is your "deep vac" ???? ;)