~ Boosting way too much, need some insight

[CitizenPro]

Not too long ago i noticed that i was boosting more than usual under WOT, 15+ psi on the stock gt25r. I tried dialing down the boost on my electronic boost controller, and again the same outcome. I recently removed my boost controller and let it run straight from the stock WGA, and again, the same outcome.

This time i purchased a Forge WGA, and i actually just now installed it. I warmed the car up and went out for a run to see if things were fixed. But again, the same outcome.....im boosting way too much! I replaced pretty much all the vac lines and there seems to be no leaking from any of them. So what should i go after next?? Im idling fine, and its driving "ok" since i dont have a good tune with the SS FTC. So again, am i missing something???

Engine Mods currently on the car: Perrin fmic (vta), injen intake, 626 mani, exhaust dump, Forge wga

Thanx guys

- Charles

[justanothermp5]

maybe ur gauge is messed up?

[69RMSP]

Does it actually feel like 15psi?

[CitizenPro]

Yea, its 15psi. As soon as i hit the throttle and it see's that much boost, i back fire and my engine light comes on. The code reads MAF too rich. I have the AEM digital gauge, so I adjusted the settings from seeing a max of 30psi, to only seeing 20psi. So my boost readings go all the way across the guage now, along with it reading digitally.

And i am reading the usual 21.0 under vaccum.

[Keno1542]

is the forge wga set right? cause i know those are rebuildable and you can change out the springs in there to vary the boost level...just a thought

[69RMSP]

is the forge wga set right? cause i know those are rebuildable and you can change out the springs in there to vary the boost level...just a thought

^

[Fudgie]

When you replaced the wastegate actuator- did you make sure that the actual wastegate on the turbo moves freely?

[ForceFed]

When you replaced the wastegate actuator- did you make sure that the actual wastegate on the turbo moves freely?Bingo..I was thinking the same thing.

If the Wastegate flapper or arm assembly is not opening up fully..you will have increased boost no matter what you do.....It should move fairly easily and move about 90* from the closed to open position.

[crashkelly]

werd on the flapper

[CitizenPro]

Yea, the flapper moved freely.....It stops at the down position (where the wga rod gets hooked up) and was fairly easy to rotate the opposite way when the wga was off.

I cant seem to get this fixed and its fustrating. Can the wastegate be fu*ked?

[ForceFed]

Where is your WGA line hooked to?
Do you have a good source.....Have you removed the Boost controller comepletely to rule it out?

[CitizenPro]

Yes, I removed the controller completely, and i have the vac line going straight from the wga to the intake manifold. I actually now have the BOV tee'd into the line, but these problems were happening before i hooked that up.

I have the line going into the nipple located on the top center of the 626 mani.

[crashkelly]

Start spraying some brake-kleen under the hood and see if there are leaks around the manifold or any of the lines. You may not hear or see any, but if the Brake-kleen hits a leak you'll know.

[ForceFed]

Man..It would have to be one hell of a leak to let enough boost out going to the Wastegate to keep it from opening.

Ok...Try this....you need to manually pressurize the WGA with a pump to whatever the factory setting is...t a gauge in to monitor and check to see if it opens under the proper boost amount (PSI).
If there isnt anything wrong with your source line..and it isn't leaking...it has to be in the actuator itself.
You need to verify its working.
I know they make Handheld vacuum pumps...do they reverse to pressurize as well?
Thats what you need to operate it manually.

[crashkelly]

Man..It would have to be one hell of a leak to let enough boost out going to the Wastegate to keep it from opening.

Ok...Try this....you need to manually pressurize the WGA with a pump to whatever the factory setting is...t a gauge in to monitor and check to see if it opens under the proper boost amount (PSI).
If there isnt anything wrong with your source line..and it isn't leaking...it has to be in the actuator itself.
You need to verify its working.
I know they make Handheld vacuum pumps...do they reverse to pressurize as well?
Thats what you need to operate it manually.

yeah that's true...Also the quick check would be to just blow in the WGA line and if it doesnt feel like your blowing in to a brick wall you have a problem.

And I hope he doesnt have a bad forge wga because I just ordered one of those to fix my WGA problem this morning...

[CitizenPro]

Ill try checking the pressure on the WGA.

...i also talked to my old Mazda tech, and he remembers working on some MSP's who had the same problem. He pointed me in the direction of a tech still working at Mazda, and that he should know exactly what it is. Ill let u guys know what happens when i go see em.

[dstmsp03]

any updates on this?

[MP3Architect]

yeah whats the deal? the speed blow up yet?


(cricket)

[MP3Architect]

oh and you didn't install the boost controller backwards did ya?

i recall a certain night when that happened before ....

[laracroft]

I'm on my 3rd wastegate actuator. The seals keep going back. If you can move it "freely" and twist the arm around, the actuator is bad... period. You need a new one.

[MSP 2731]

Im having a very similar problem and would like to hear what you found out.

[ND4MSP]

I'm on my 3rd wastegate actuator. The seals keep going back. If you can move it "freely" and twist the arm around, the actuator is bad... period. You need a new one.

Are you using aftermarket too?

[CitizenPro]

I replaced the actuator with the Forge billet actuator. Same problem is occuring, and i havent messed with it since. Im able to hit boost, but just have no control on when to cut it off.....looking to just replace the turbo with something new.

[jamesk]

did you take the s pipe off to see if the valve is actually opening?

[CitizenPro]

did you take the s pipe off to see if the valve is actually opening?

No sir. Im pretty sure its an internal problem with the actuator, but i honestly just dont want to mess with it at this time. I plan on grabbing another turbo, and when this one is off ill get it fixed, if possible.

[MSP 2731]

Did you ever go see that Mazda tech you were referred to?

[crashkelly]

I replaced the actuator with the Forge billet actuator. Same problem is occuring, and i havent messed with it since. Im able to hit boost, but just have no control on when to cut it off.....looking to just replace the turbo with something new.

I just put in a forge myself but I am having no issues with it...I have the unichip boost controller hooked up an it runs 10 psi on stock (I requested a higher boost spring from forge) and 13 psi when I hit the switch...Are you running the boost controller with your unichip? Maybe that is the problem...

[onequickmsp]

I'm looking at getting a Forge WGA. I was working on the car yesterday and noticed that it wistles a bit when it starts up from a cold start, so I took the vacuum line going to the wga and blew into it and wouldn't you know it, air was escaping. Air escaping from the wga is a sign of a finished wga, right?

I'm thinking of either an OEM one or the Forge? Do I have to adjust the Forge first or can I just install it? How long did it take you guys to install it?

Sorry for thread jacking. I've been searching like crazy, and this is the best match for want I needed to know.

As for your problem, are you running the MAF in the stock location or did you relocate? and are you running the Unichip with the boost boost controller??