Protege 5 rust [Archive]

808MP5

02-22-2008, 05:37 PM

you live in hawaii, you better not have any rust!

lol. Its not always sunny. Especially the side i live on "windward" it rains just about everyday. The wind comes off the ocean and hits the mountains. The warm moist air shoots up hits the cool air and causes rain and clouds. Now the other side of the island "leeward" is mostly sunny skies. every morning my car is covered with dew. Its so moist on this side u can smell it.

Google can find the electronic rust proofing device. Its not cheap. And according to wiki and my experience it does WORK.

br289165

02-23-2008, 01:19 AM

depends on the color and region...

what color is your car? the yellow p5s have a single stage paint and clearcoat, and are notorious for clearcoat failure.

I live near Detroit. Lots of salt here. I spray it off the day after it gets salt on it.It's a 2002 mica black. I love this little bitch, but she's letting me down with this rust problem. Does anyone know if it's worth spending some money on a good refinish job (on those areas)? I plan on keeping it for 2 more years. 74,000 miles on her and she still runs like new.

kura808

02-23-2008, 02:37 PM

hehe we can because we're a little rock surrounded by salt water xD

you live in hawaii, you better not have any rust!

Fluffy Bunny

02-25-2008, 03:42 PM

10% of the salt mined around the world each year ends up on roads in North America during the winter.

My 5 has rust on both sides along the wheel well lip. Car gets washed pretty often.

Part that really sucks is that since purchase in Oct. of 2002 - it has only been on a salted northern road for three years...hate to think of what it would look like if driven in PA all its life. My daily is a 2000 Uglyota - and it has zero rust. It has lived seven out of eight years in NE PA - go figure.

Do not worry - have heard horror stories about cars from the 50s and 60s. Some would already have rust holes through major body parts within two years - and we are talking about a thicker grade of sheet metal. Favorite one is about a guy whose family was on vacation in an early '60s Thunderbird. Heard a horrible noise and the car suddenly shut down. Looked in the rear view mirror to see the gas tank skating across the shoulder of the highway into the ditch - brackets had rusted off and tank fell off the car at 70 mph.

spirosp5

03-16-2008, 12:41 AM

i have a 2003 with rust around the wheel wells and went to Mazda. Even though she's not perforated, they'll cover it because they know it's a problem. Look into it, I believe our rust warranty is 5 yrs.

speed5hornet

03-16-2008, 10:37 AM

what, they said they wouldnt cover it. They would only cover rust through...i guess my deal doesnt know that this is a common issue!

spirosp5

03-16-2008, 11:05 AM

yeah, i went, told them the problem... they didn't even look at the car, they just booked the repair date...

speed5hornet

03-16-2008, 11:07 AM

...not cool im jealous

Redcoat

03-16-2008, 02:52 PM

That's in Canada, though...Do you think it would apply to North American dealerships? I guess I'll have to try and find out for myself as I have surface bubbling rust on the inside of one of my rear wheel wells and at the bottom of the drivers door.

spirosp5

03-16-2008, 04:04 PM

mine's going in next week, I'll ask while i'm there and get back to you...

ZOOMit

03-16-2008, 04:07 PM

What es des rust you guys speak of? I have nun on my karr..bwhahahahaha

jhillzoom

03-16-2008, 09:47 PM

Rust free in NC>>>>>(cabpatch)

joneb4evr

03-16-2008, 09:58 PM

not sure if I'm rusting, but I get water build up where the jack should be.

Korea

03-17-2008, 12:10 AM

Mine's also going into the body shop to get the pass side rear wheel well fixed up from the rust that's forming there, it's also on the pass rear door, kind of a piss off, but thank god the rust warranty will cover it.

rednecks_r_us

03-17-2008, 12:35 AM

Rust free.

We don't salt the roads when it snows. We use cinders which is basically crushed lava rock and sand. Does wonders for paint and windshields but leaves us rust free. My 1950 Chevy truck is also rust free.

Valk

03-17-2008, 01:47 AM

i have a little smudge of it in the crack for my hatch, and there is a paint chip just above the driverside headlight that ill need to attend to soonish since im afraid it will start to rust out. cant find a touchup for my color though, and i dunno how close ford colors are.

otherwise, she good. undercoated and the paint is coated. of course, my stock rims are starting to chip... found a nice big chip out of my passenger side front. T_T

Purrfectangel

03-17-2008, 01:33 PM

Most of my rust is underneath on the exhaust and whatnot do to road salt. My paint is 99% rust free though. I do have one spot forming over the rear passenger wheel well on the outside lip. I have some chips on my hood too but I seal them with clear nailpolish and I haven't had any rust form there for the two years I've had her. Fixing all that this spring/summer though.

I rinse mine as much as possible through the winter tho with just hot water. Bubbles come in the summer.

gsmooth

03-17-2008, 11:38 PM

im convinced I got the biggest lemon of them all

big rust spot with a 1.5 inch diameter on the tip of the hood near the headlight.

bottom corner (reaching furthest away from car when door is opened) of both doors, driver side is worse.

my trunks water holes are all rustied up...

bubbling on the trunk around some letters from logos (the trunk was stripped and repainted under warranty 2 years after I had it) The gas springs on the trunk rusted up and were replaced.

rust on the sun roof

the oil pan needs changing ASAP (thats what happens when you dont get your brand new car sprayed in Canada)

the "L" pipe on the exhaust rusted and broke off. replaced that too after 5 years.

i'll keep everyone posted on the rust watch

245 kms and counting!!!

chaztor

03-18-2008, 08:59 AM

you live in hawaii, you better not have any rust!

come on boston, you should know about sea (salt) mist. quite often worse rust since its up in the roof pillars and such...

my p5 has the rear wheel well lip rust breaking out now. Sunlight silver. Also any place there is a paint chip it starts rusting. Odd my '82 626 never rusted at the paint chips, bare metal, or anywhere for that mater. Must have used higher quality steel back then. (shrug)

chaztor

03-18-2008, 09:13 AM

also the fog lights can be a PITA. I just talked about that in another thread.

on the screw heads for the fog lights. They are not fun to take apart when a bulb goes out if the screw head disintegrates and the aluminum pot metal has corroded around the screw.

flynP5

03-18-2008, 02:45 PM

Anybody having rust problems around rear wheelwell lip on their P5?

I have a few little spots starting to show up after this winter. Hopefully the hole lip isn't going to rust off over time. (uhm)

808MP5

03-18-2008, 03:30 PM

I said it once so I'll say it again. Get some electronic rust proofing. The sh1t works. It will prevent the rust from spreading for those of u that already have rust. And it will prevent rust from forming for those of u who don't. I suggest getting ur rust shaved off filled and painted then "GET ELECTRONIC RUST PROOFING" yes its quite expensive but so is repeatedly fixing rust damage.

Problem solved.

Schnitzelsemmel

03-19-2008, 08:15 AM

i live in austria, and i don't have any serious rust, at least i think so. fortunately, they don't use salt in winter, as it makes the trees "sick".

the only rust is a really really tiny one on that pillar on the right rear door window (don't know how to name that thing...), and some rust on the radiator stays and engine mounts.

Purrfectangel

03-19-2008, 10:51 AM

Electronic rust proofing is not worth the money in all honesty especially for older cars. On newer cars it's more logical because the paint jobs are much better with the paint inbetween the panel seems etc but even then it's still not worth it. Does it slow rust down, when it's active yes, does it prevent rust no.

The electronic rust based system only works if you have a complete circuit and with a car there is no constant to complete the circuit. Now if you could manage to get one, you'd likely go through more batteries in one year than you would in the cars lifetime because to get a charge big enough to cover your car, you'd be draining your battery left and right.

In theory this is a very good idea but until they perfect it, it's really not economical.

808MP5

03-19-2008, 02:44 PM

not sure what your talking about. Electronic rust proofing has been perfected for over 20years now. It was originaly developed for ships/boats and is proven to work. Expensive yes but not as expensive as fixing rust. Prevents rust "yes" prevents rust from spreading "yes" complete the circuit? How do u think the sh1t works. Its very simple two wires complete the circuit.
Btw u ever heard of google or wikipedia.

Purrfectangel

03-19-2008, 05:42 PM

The CP process has been perfected for over 20 years yes indeed but for buildings, bridges, and ships, NOT automobiles. And seeing as you must have skipped high school science class let me explain. You need a constant to make your circuit work. For buildings or bridges its soil and for ships water. But seeing as your car is not sitting immersed in the ocean and you don’t park it in a dirt pit every night, you therefore have no constant. In other words you have small fragments of current roaming around but to no specific area and never all over at once. Now sure a little bit of water gets on there while driving, or when it’s raining but it’s not a solid mass. It’s sparadic therefore it does not and can not make a complete connection.

The people who promote this shit are the same people who produce infomercials. Someone comes out with a new product, a day later there’s 10 more commericals for the same damn thing all claiming they’re better when it’s the same shit different name and story and each one tries to makes there’s look and sound better with some technical lingo that evidently you fell for.

Now, cars do come straight from the factory with what is known as Zinc Electroplating which they do to the chassis to prevent rust but it only lasts so long and not to mention there was no rust to begin with. There are some good rust inhibitor products out there but you still have to be careful.

Electronic rust proofing is nothing but a money grab. You my friend as they say got swindled!

Perhaps you should take your own advice about the google and wikipedia, but first may I recommend you learn to read and comprehend because without it you’ll learn nothing.

808MP5

03-19-2008, 07:30 PM

swindled no. Got mine free. Skipped hs science no math yes. Besides I think this has more to do with "electronics" than science.
Lol vehicles have a constant. Its called chassis ground. How do you think your accesories work cuz if it wasn't constant nothing would turn on. And if thats not enough u could always bolt up a grounding strap and let it drag under ur car. I have no rust. And being there are current laws against false advertisement and the ppl are still selling their "shit" it must work.

Comprehend LOL. Sorry eh guru. Hehe hope u get rust :)

Purrfectangel

03-20-2008, 06:03 PM

Wow, that the best you can do..look I'm not gonna argue, believe what you want to but let me explain first my reasoning behind what I said.

The constant I was referring to was a conductor not the ground. The conductor for this process to work needs to contain significant amounts of moisture that are always there to work properly, at least for the original CP process. This smaller verson which comes in many different names uses what is called DCP.

Now DCP will work if you've got enough zinc panels inside or up underneath your car somewhere for the electrons to go and corrode however the zinc is what makes it exspensive. They try to confuse you or impress you with some fancy lingo about a high end electronic smart box and it does this this and this but it really does not a whole lot.

The whole process of DCP is to send electrons from the metal to a (+) charged anode in these systems (usually a zinc panel), however the only metal aside from the little nodes connected to your frame is some fancy extra strong aluminum tape. See the current goes from your battery to the round ground circle patch (node), that patch then sends out an impressed current through your frame which pushes the electrons to a (+)charged anode, the whole point that anode rusts before your metal right. Sounds great eh, only problem is there aren't any panels. If you look inside your car I highly doubt you'll find any zince panels. All that's connected to your car are those little round electronic patch circles (nodes) that aren't even solid and then a couple of wires are connected to the battery and that tiny computerized box. That's it! Theres no Zinc other than those little patches IF they contain it which there are only four maybe six of in total. Usually two in the front and two in the back on the quarter panels. No do you honestly think those little nodes which are made out of zinc are nearly big enough in size do really any good?

Also to do any good these systems generally would have to use a large amount of power which they claim they've downsized through they're little computerized box so there's no big power drains...red flag!

All in all it's a load of hogwash (huge money grab in an upcoming money making industry) IMHO and that is my opinion but obviously not yours. It's just not logical no matter which way they spin the story. Do some research into the science behind it, I mean really research it, if you don't believe me. Don't believe just some product specs or what some guy tells you. All I'm saying is it's not something I wouldn't invest money in unless they could without a doubt prove to me other wise. I'm glad you didn't pay any money for it but, I'd still be on the look out for rust.

808MP5

03-20-2008, 06:21 PM

:) btw checked out ur car domian. Nice pic. Anyhow I'll take your word for it when I get some rust. Until then I'm a believer. Hehe

Crazee D

03-20-2008, 07:00 PM

hehe we can because we're a little rock surrounded by salt water xD

Ditto, minus the rock and warmth, add sand and freezing.

I am seriously gonna consider that anti-rust device after I touch up.
Inducing a charge to your body panels to repel other charged particles sounds basic to me.

I have some RUST on the passenger rear quarterpanel and some on the driver side door corner.

:cool:

thefrog1394

03-30-2008, 01:39 PM

does anyone know what date the 5 year rust warranty starts on? My car is a 2003, and but the manufacture date is Jan 03. Does that mean the warranty expired in January? Or is it from the purchase date? (Which I don't know because I got he car used).

I've got some paint bubbling on the rear driver side wheel well, but it hasn't broken through yet. I'm just wondering if I can get that fixed because I plan on keeping the car a while longer and if I can get this fixed under warranty that would be great.

spirosp5

03-30-2008, 04:28 PM

i may be wrong but I just went to the dealer to get my work done and he checked delivery date if I am not mistaken.

thefrog1394

03-30-2008, 10:32 PM

I just got out the warranty booklet, it is the day of delivery or the first day of use of the mazda vehicle which ever comes first. So now how do I figure out what day that is? I guess I have to call up my dealer, I wonder if they will be able to tell me that.

spirosp5

03-30-2008, 10:55 PM

they checked delivery date in their system, i validated the date today...

rayffy

04-04-2008, 10:59 AM

I bought a 2002 P5 used from a private seller back in July of 06 in Calgary. I spoke to a dealership then and they said it wasnt covered. But now you guys are saying it was supposed to be. Im going to go try talk to a dealership or possibly call Mazda Canada and complain. I have some rust issues, the hatch being the worst, which really annoys me. And its such a common problem. This should have been fixed awhile ago.

Where in Canada do you live that you were able to have it covered under warranty?

thefrog1394

04-04-2008, 03:52 PM

My local dealer said there had to be a hole through the panel for them to cover it. I'm trying to decide whether i should try to yell at them until they cover it or not, right now I just have a bubble the size of a nickel on my rear fender.

MP52002QC

04-05-2008, 02:20 AM

I purchased a used MP5 2002 in 2006... Madly fell in love with the thing and drove it over 60 000 km in a little over a year. I'd still have it were it not for the RUST!

The previous owner obviously never had it rustproofed and I was living in salty Montréal. No hope there... Soon after I had purchased it, both rear wheel wells revealed deep rust problems. Mazda did replace them at no cost, but then the paint job was badly done and the clearcoat had to be repaired twice... I also had the black struts along the window in the rear doors replaced because of rust at the base.

When I moved outside the province, I figured there was no way I was bringing my rust bucket with me and replaced the car before I moved. By then, it had bubbles along the front of the hood, around the "Protegé5" sign on the hatch, and rust at the front corner of the rear door windows on the inside. The rust perforation warranty had expired a few months earlier. I just wish Mazda used less recycled steel in their cars, because they are great otherwise. This car had great style, performance, and would have given me years of enjoyment, had it not had that major rust issue.

Good luck getting dealerships to pay for rust that has not perforated. I tried.

geetee

04-05-2008, 05:38 PM

Well I did my driver side today, the Mazda underseal man should be shot in the head and then sacked!!! (notcool)
We don't get bad snow like some of you guys, but we do get salt/grit mixture spread on all our roads.
I can't really go to Mazda with mine, as I've kinda modified my arches to take RX8 rims..... we otherwise have a 6 year anti-perforation warranty, which usually means the rust has to come through the top paint.
I done all the painting with brushes, and next week I'll flat it down and spray laquer on it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/nellyeff/Rust%200408/archrust5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/nellyeff/Rust%200408/archrust8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/nellyeff/Rust%200408/archrust10.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v487/nellyeff/Rust%200408/archrust13.jpg

spirosp5

04-06-2008, 12:12 AM

the dealer here in Montreal has agreed to redo the rear fenders even tho there is no hole in them as it is a common problem.... fight it if they say no

MazdaPam

04-06-2008, 07:51 PM

hm, so there might still be a chance the dealer would fix my 2002 at this late date? Have the same rust issue on the right rear wheel well lip, plus just around the R and the O in the Protege 5 nameplate on the hatch.

spirosp5

04-06-2008, 08:00 PM

i would say so, I'll post as soon as my car goes in and I will ask the dealer how it works exactly and let you all know !

MazdaPam

04-06-2008, 08:05 PM

i would say so, I'll post as soon as my car goes in and I will ask the dealer how it works exactly and let you all know !

Thanks Spiros!

Tifun

04-07-2008, 08:34 PM

I found rust bubbles on the hood by the headlamp. Looked under the door seems and found some minor buildup. Also found some buildup in the rear wells. I clean the wells and zapped some fresh paint so that one is solved for now. I've got to do something about the other spots though. Car is first run P5. For those who don't know the steel used on the P5's is zinc coated which is a rust inhibitor and works very well.

RMinNJ

04-10-2008, 11:15 AM

Just thought I'd add myself to to the list... mine is also a blue 2002 P5.

Rusting in the exact same places. What clearly says its a Mazda problem
is the rust under the hatch "Protege 5" emblem.

Tried to get it fixed under warranty last year and year before with Mazda
usa and dealer to no avail. They said it must be rusted through. My one
rear wheel well where the paint was rubbed off by the side skirt is rusted through. I was explicity told anything remotely near the wheel well is considered stone chips that did it (including the skirt rubbing the paint off).

Most reliable car we've ever owned but its rusting to pieces now. The metal toward the rear of the car does not seem zinc coated or galvanized at all. Other color P5s I've seen have seemed better. I know they have a piece of rubber between the body and side skirt
now. My non-glavanized 12 year old saab had less rust on it.

If anyone knows a way to get Mazda to honor their warranty I'd love to hear it. While the car hasn't passed its 6 year delivery date
the company showed no interest in honoring the warranty.

mcstark

04-10-2008, 01:15 PM

Don't bank on the color theory. My black mica `03 is showing signs of car cancer in all the typical spots - rear wheel wells. I would like to see them call it stone chips, as mine has bubbled through the paint, but there's no signs on rust on the inside -- figure that one out.

Absolutely love the car. I still love the sound of the motor revving over 4000 rpm. I really don't abuse it, and have put Mobil 1 full synthetic in it since 1500 miles or so. Now have 50,000 miles on the clock, and was only to the dealer once for a leaky sunroof. It was promptly fixed and has been damn reliable since.

My rear sway bar bushings need some love, but that's just wear and tear when you're dealing with road salt 6-7 months a year. Rubber doesn't last forever!

If I have to fix it on my dime, I might just become an apprentice body man. I don't even want to know how much it would cost. I would love to mask off the rear wheel wells and spray them down with that rubberized bed liner stuff.

I think the primary fault is a crappy clear coat job. I've seen that complaint since first joining these boards. I love the car, though. It's served me well, and we're looking at a Mazda for my wife's next car -- that's what manufacturer's want to hear. So, if anyone from Mazda corporate is out there listening...take care of us, we're young and will be buying cars for the next 50+ years. Once the P5 becomes a complete rust bucket, I'll probably pick up a low mileage RX8 for summer use.

808MP5

04-10-2008, 02:58 PM

ill add myself to the zero rust list

thefrog1394

04-10-2008, 06:00 PM

Just found two more rust bubbles on the roof by the windshield when I was washing and waxing yesterday. Great. Those at least seem to be caused by rock chips so it shouldn't be to hard to sand them down and put some touch up paint on. The rust by the wheel well worries me though because it looks like its coming through from the back.

danny1rod

04-10-2008, 07:53 PM

All I can say people is if you don't have rust try to maintain it b/c you're car will rust. This past weekend I did my part and filled all my fenders with grease to help preserve my car alittle longer.

RMinNJ

04-11-2008, 12:25 PM

geetee

04-11-2008, 04:37 PM

For those who don't know the steel used on the P5's is zinc coated which is a rust inhibitor and works very well.

Are you having a laugh??? (evil)
Theres no way these cas are zinc coated. There was areas of my wheelwells I could scrape down to the bare metal with my fingernail!!!
The paint is very thin on the wheel arch lip, minimal effort required to remove it.
You'l lfind the best chip protection BEHIND the furry wheel well liner. Really tough rubbery stuff. Not much point putting it behind there IMO.... :mad:

mcstark

04-11-2008, 04:47 PM

mcstark wrote:
"It's served me well, and we're looking at a Mazda for my wife's next car -- that's what manufacturer's want to hear. "

The rust has angered and dissapointed both myself and my wife. It really
is a good car...really reliable and no big bills. But any cost savings will be
negated by the cost of fixing the rust. If the body wasn't like this I would
buy another Mazda in a heartbeat. As it is we can't.

No, the company won't stand behind it and even though the new models look
nice and shiny but I can't help but think in 3-4 years all those people will start to see the bubbles.

Yeah, that's why we're still looking while we save. I personally won't buy another new car as long as I live where we are. I'll pick up an older Audi/VW, etc that has a quality paint job. That, I think, is the biggest glaring flaw with the P5 - crappy paint.

Tifun

04-11-2008, 06:03 PM

Are you having a laugh??? (evil)
Theres no way these cas are zinc coated. There was areas of my wheelwells I could scrape down to the bare metal with my fingernail!!!
The paint is very thin on the wheel arch lip, minimal effort required to remove it.
You'l lfind the best chip protection BEHIND the furry wheel well liner. Really tough rubbery stuff. Not much point putting it behind there IMO.... :mad:
I'm pretty sure I'm right. The company I worked for back then stamped out the doors and fenders. I can promise you they were zinc coated. We annealed the coils and ran them through the line, then racked them onto the press for multiple hits. We did a lot of JDM work, especially for Honda. There are two different colors btw, silver and gold zinc for those who are unaware. They do the same thing, just different color.

d.herm

04-11-2008, 10:26 PM

My Mazda is a 2002 Red lil bucket of rust. I bought it in SW Ontario in May of 2002 new. From the jump it had problems, mainly brake related. I complained to Mazda. I supplied documentation. They denied all responsibility because I had the brakes repaired at a non Mazda dealer. Game over.
I mention this only because I have extremely low hopes of getting Mazda to do anything about the rust.The rear wheel wells have extensive bubbling and paint strips approx. 8" long by 4" wide have completely fallen off.
I took it to the best body shop in our area and the guy was AMAZED.
It was horrible and he could see it getting worse. New rear panels and work on the surrounding area would be needed, and he wouldn't guarantee anything because the metal was the worst he had seen.
His advice-do a cosmetic job on it and unload it quick.
Oh, did I mention I have only 40,000km or just over 24,000 miles on it.
I am pissed off to the nth degree. Any buyers??????

danny1rod

04-12-2008, 12:59 PM

Don't you drive the car? for a 2002 that is some really low Km's.
I say fix it right and take care of the car by oil sraying the car every year. I mean the car is not even broken in yet, and a good body shop will give some sort of a warranty on the work.

My Mazda is a 2002 Red lil bucket of rust. I bought it in SW Ontario in May of 2002 new. From the jump it had problems, mainly brake related. I complained to Mazda. I supplied documentation. They denied all responsibility because I had the brakes repaired at a non Mazda dealer. Game over.
I mention this only because I have extremely low hopes of getting Mazda to do anything about the rust.The rear wheel wells have extensive bubbling and paint strips approx. 8" long by 4" wide have completely fallen off.
I took it to the best body shop in our area and the guy was AMAZED.
It was horrible and he could see it getting worse. New rear panels and work on the surrounding area would be needed, and he wouldn't guarantee anything because the metal was the worst he had seen.
His advice-do a cosmetic job on it and unload it quick.
Oh, did I mention I have only 40,000km or just over 24,000 miles on it.
I am pissed off to the nth degree. Any buyers??????

d.herm

04-12-2008, 10:45 PM

Don't you drive the car? for a 2002 that is some really low Km's.
I say fix it right and take care of the car by oil sraying the car every year. I mean the car is not even broken in yet, and a good body shop will give some sort of a warranty on the work.

To answer your question, I was injured at work and unable to drive at all for thirteen months, and I live about 3km (both ways) from where I work.Thus the ultra low mileage. In all honesty this car is a large pile of crap.
In 40,000km I've had to put on three sets of rotors and pads on the front and
this week put on the second set of rotors and pads on the rear.
Now it sounds like a strut on the front end is going.
Mazda has been in every respect totally unco-operative and the dealership just doesn't give a damn.
As for fixing the rust, the body shop I took it to will not guarantee any work on the car because they feel UNLESS I repace the whole rear quarter panels with new metal (on both sides) the problem is going to spread.
In his own words he said he really doesn't want to put his company's rep on the line for a repair of this complexity given the severity of the problem.
Interestingly the Mazda dealer won't touch it, can't or is unable to help price new panels or even recommend a course of action.
The advice to apply some cosmetic action (meaning mud and and paint) and unloading it to a dealer (because I sure as hell won't sell it to a friend) sounds real good from here.
To Mazda, ZOOM,ZOOM is the sound of their cars rusting.(eekfu)(eekfu)

RMinNJ

04-13-2008, 10:52 AM

"To Mazda, ZOOM,ZOOM is the sound of their cars rusting"

For sure; when looking for my car I looked at the 2002-2004 Audi A4s. Do you
think those had ANY rust on them...nope. Interestingly the wheel wells on those has padding all on the inside and the outer edge comes to a lip (like a
car door edge). One can see how the wheel wells on those fight and stand
up to salt and rust.

Our P5 had the paint peeling off the wheels after 2 years ...Madza would not
replace/honor any warranty on this.

The P5 has been a great lesson in choosing a good vehicle design. For those
looking to keep a car more than 5 years I could only reccommend against them.

spirosp5

04-13-2008, 11:19 AM

Hi, I had a 2002 Audi A4... they use galvanized steel for the Audi so design has nothing to do with it, it won't rust... there is quite a price difference between a Mazda Protegé and an Audi A4 and let me tell you that as much as I loved the car it wasn't as reliable as my P5. My P5 ain't no audi, and it has a little rust but won't leave me stranded as my A4 with 35,000 kms did twice - and this is a common problem on the A4's (ignition coils)...

I am starting to think that the warranty coverage depends on the dealer and if you don't get service, call Mazda. I am considering sending Mazda an email with this link so they can see the quantity of people that love their Mazda's but didn't get good service when it came to the warranty. It doesn't make sense that my dealer honors the warranty and others don't see it looks like a dealer issue... IMO.

I am pretty sure we all agree they are great little cars overall ! Vehicle design is one thing, mechanical reliability quite another... I choose reliability... plus the P5 looks good to boot !

RMinNJ

04-13-2008, 01:59 PM

Yes, I didn't mean to compare the Audi and P5 as a whole..I was simply
comparing the bodys.

I agree the Audis are not known for their reliability. The P5 has been the most
reliable car we've ever owned. That's kind of why I'm so upset with the body.

Reliability aside, perhaps buying an all galvanized body is the way to go if a
durable rust free body is important to me. With the P5, do we continue to
put money into it as the body rusts around us, knowing the it will keep going
but may no look nice?

As for calling Mazda USA, I have done that already...they said it must rust
through..even if you see rust that is only surface rust. When I called last and
said it is rusted through they said a stone must have hit the paint there (and
the hatch behind the emblem) and that with 80K miles it was not covered not
covered in any way. I was told the body is warrantied for 35K for anything.
After that it must rust all the way through (but they can always say it was
external damage)....ie the peforation warranty will not be honored.

I take the car in this week for a wheel bearing.. I call Mazda USA while its at
the dealer and see what they say... I have a feeling they will say that while
there is no paint left on the rust one can't put one's finger through it..therefore it is not preforated...

I thought rust like this was a thing left behind in the 1970s...who knew.

EVADE

04-13-2008, 02:13 PM

got little rust coming out from the door pillars and from the little drain hole on the hatch also some on my hood dampers and the fenders getting hit them=( And in Hawaii your surrounded by salt water! some stuff i plan to do is use some rust converter and grease areas that mostly collect water or moisture to stop anymore rust from appearing. Also maybe getting a electric rust guard.

spirosp5

04-13-2008, 04:59 PM

I need to ask my dealer why they're agreeing to cover and how they will go about it because mine is only bubbled and they confirmed it will be covered by the rust warranty from Mazda. Quite confusing...

Hi-Gloss

04-17-2008, 06:47 PM

I have a 2002 Protege ES in the Family bought new.

The rust on it just disgusts me to the point where I will not look at another Mazda until I see newer models prove themselves. So far they haven't. I hear of Mazda 3 owners complaining. and tons of MPV vans out there have the exact problem. Im curious to know if the RX8's have the same problem, it would be funny to see a 6 year old sporty car rusting all over the place. You've gotta be in a region that uses salt to notice just how much these Mazdas of late rust. I am in Toronto

If you think back to the 80s and early 90s, all Japanese cars would rot right out before the engine quit. Now things have changed. You wont see much rust on a Honda or Toyota built in the last 10 years. Why? I couldn't tell you. What I can tell you is that they are doing something that Mazda IS NOT doing to fight corrosion.

I really hate to shit on Mazda's so much because like other people state, they are otherwise great cars. But if you are like me and enjoy not seeing rust bubbles that pop like zits on your car, then you've gotta look elsewhere when shopping for that shiny hunk of steel.

jjac28

04-18-2008, 02:08 PM

I have some wheel well rust as well.
I sanded it down before winter, repainted it good and now its spring time and its back again!

I see a lot of rust problems on the proteges, especially the p5's .

When Im walking my dog and i come across a protege I make sure to look for any rust, and yep, a see rust around the wheel wells.

Too bad Mazdas rust so quickly, I really like the car, but it will be a rust bucket soon (headshake What a shame to see a nice car like that rusting away...

mx-p5

04-18-2008, 02:20 PM

No wheel well rust, but, it is eating away the nose of my hood.

MazdaPam

04-18-2008, 08:32 PM

Mike R

04-18-2008, 08:43 PM

Rust free 172,000 miles...

I did have the "rustproofing" done at the dealer... lol

Lunk248

04-19-2008, 02:54 AM

I was just giving my happy little 03 P5 a once over to check for dings and dents and I find RUST?!?!?!?

What the heck? After a little more then 5 years the paint is actually flaking off!

I've got identical areas in front of the rear wheels, just above the lower trim pieces. I've also got some bubbling on the rear driver-side window frame.

I'd expect this at 9 or 10 years, but just 5????

I don't care how fun it is to drive, Mazda will have to improve their rust warranty substantially to get me back in their showroom.

Lunk248

04-21-2008, 11:54 AM

Upon closer inspection, there's a dime-sized bubble of rust in the middle of the roof just behind the sunroof.

Splendid.

WTF, it was built in 2003 not 1973.

d.herm

04-29-2008, 04:35 PM

I wish I was smart enough to post a couple pictures of my rust problem.
I did send a few to Mazda and guess what- NO REPLY. Not even a FU.
A Mazda customer rep (I'm not sure if its ok to post his name so i'll omit it for now) made me jump through hoops in order to get a problem resolved. They denied my claim. When I challenged their decision the Mazda customer rep accused me of racism.
I told him to be very careful where he was heading and reminded him that the calls were being monitored for "quality control". Only then did he half heartedly apologize.
Mazda figures that because they fly just under the radar they can get away with crap service, and poor workman ship.
I have made it a point to talk to people planning to buy a buy a Mazda and showing them my rust bucket and telling them about Mazda's total lack of care for their customers.
To date I have stopped ten people from buying a Mazda (my bank manager being one, my boss another).
Since they don't give a damn about us, spread the word about your piece of shit Mazda. Its the least we can do so some other fool doesn't waste his hard earned money.(eekfu)Mazda(eekfu).

bazooka joe

04-29-2008, 05:05 PM

he accused you of racisim? how did you go from your rust issue to racisim.....something fishy here?

Fluffy Bunny

04-29-2008, 05:26 PM

Maybe the customer rep guy meant "rustism" and it just came out wrong...

MonkeyBone

04-29-2008, 06:53 PM

Got rust on my top, on my hood, in my rear fender wells, inside my hatch, in the crack between my front bumper and my front fender, on the bottom of a front door (ask me why just one, i don't know) it's a freaking plea.

Even if late summer I sand the spots and repaint them, in spring they all pop up again! (with new spots also)

My girlfriend's brother got a 1998 corolla....NO rust at all nothing but a single dot of "rockpunchedmyhood" on the hood and he fixed it last year and it stays painted!

My car is oiled and greased up everywhere before winter comes, but here they put salts on the roads like "we don't have to use snowplows, we got salt"

In 3-4 years, when i'll change this little car, 1st it won'T be silver anymore, it will be silver and "rustorange", and 2nd of all I don'T know if i'm going to buy a mazda again. But, i think of it..my RIP '92 protege only got rust a tiny bit where i punched my rear fender and that's all!

Anyway, if Mazdas are rusting, have you seen Kia and Hyundai? That brings a bit of hope.

bazooka joe

04-29-2008, 08:42 PM

Maybe the customer rep guy meant "rustism" and it just came out wrong...
(lol)

flynP5

04-30-2008, 07:47 AM

I purchased the life time rust protection and on Monday I go for the 2 year inspection/touch-up appointment.

It should be interesting, since I also have a few rust spots starting to show up. Its probably going to be like pulling teeth to get them to fix these, especially since they are only bubbling at this point.

d.herm

04-30-2008, 03:47 PM

he accused you of racisim? how did you go from your rust issue to racisim.....something fishy here?

I had contacted Mazda previously to see about being reimbursed for brake rotors that had warped at 22,000km.
The Mazda customer service rep requested all paper work related to the brake job be faxed to him. I complied.
He responded by saying he needed verification that the mechanic was licensed, I complied. I also provided a written statement from the mechanic saying that I could not have made the trip to the dealership safely (unless towed) and his opinion (he was a Ford technician) that the original rotors were sub par.
After a lenghtly wait Mazda replied saying "they couldn't help me", I said you mean you won't help me, if your not going to help me just say so.
At this point, out of the blue I was accused of racism.
I included reference to this incident to illustrate Mazda's lack of customer service.
I apologize if I confused anyone by relating that incident. This is about rust.
Again sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

libtech

05-02-2008, 01:25 PM

My '02 is rusting in the usual spots. I even called Mazda and they said they wont help. Theres got to be a way to get this covered. Its just ridiculous. My fiance wants to keep the car, as she loves it, but I just wont get any resale value out of it when we do go to sell it if its a giant orange bucket. Her theory is just to drive it till it dies. I looked under the hood, and there is rust on some of the weld seems on the engine bay.... How ridiculous is that.

^*^BATMAN^*^

05-02-2008, 03:57 PM

I am getting rust in the usual spots. What do I do for it? Just sand the area down and get some touch up paint? What grit sand paper should I use?

MazdaPam

05-02-2008, 04:27 PM

GolerDude

05-05-2008, 06:30 PM

Mine also has rust on the driver and passenger rear lips aswell. Its also got some rust forming under the running boards so thanks for the tip about the warrenty, im bringing it in this week!

thefrog1394

05-05-2008, 10:28 PM

Don't forget to put some primer on it first if its bare metal. I actually used a screwdriver tip to get off most of the rust and then sanded it with 1000grit (just becuase thats what i had at the time). 400 grit would probably be good though to get it off. The hard part is not screwing up the paint nearby when sanding.

I am getting rust in the usual spots. What do I do for it? Just sand the area down and get some touch up paint? What grit sand paper should I use?

2002 MP5

05-05-2008, 11:14 PM

maxchao

05-06-2008, 07:19 PM

I'm not sure if this is the only place on my 5 that has rust. See pic.
Can anyone tell me what I should do to threat this area?

Thanks!

Josh

thefrog1394

05-06-2008, 07:40 PM

lol If that was the only rust on my car I'd be the happiest guy alive

I'm not sure if this is the only place on my 5 that has rust. See pic.
Can anyone tell me what I should do to threat this area?

Thanks!

Josh

bazooka joe

05-06-2008, 07:40 PM

We have a 2002 P5 and OMG, there is rust eveywhere underneath the car! The suspension and exhaust looks really bad.

There are a few pin holes on the body by the wheel wells and some on the hood.

Any ideas what to do with the rust on the suspension?
ya, there is this paint, i'll get the name for you...my body guy used on an old rusting sign pole two yrs ago and it looks like he did it yesterday...no rust poking thru at all!

my cars off to the body shop thurs for a bit of rust fixing...the drivers door has a little starting near the weep hole...

MazdaPam

05-06-2008, 07:52 PM

We have a 2002 P5 and OMG, there is rust eveywhere underneath the car! The suspension and exhaust looks really bad.

There are a few pin holes on the body by the wheel wells and some on the hood.

Any ideas what to do with the rust on the suspension?

I took a look under there earlier this year when the oil pan rusted through. OMG. The whole underneath is a rust bucket. WTH. I was just sick looking at it. I had no idea it had gotten that bad. I even took it to the car wash periodically during the winter to avoid salt problems. :(

flynP5

05-07-2008, 11:00 AM

ya, there is this paint, i'll get the name for you...my body guy used on an old rusting sign pole two yrs ago and it looks like he did it yesterday...no rust poking thru at all!

my cars off to the body shop thurs for a bit of rust fixing...the drivers door has a little starting near the weep hole...

I had my semi-annual rust protection done at the dealer this week, and they said that they will not fix my few spots of bubbling rust.

Can you either post or PM me on how much its going to cost to get a few area's touched up on you're car. I'm planning on keeping my car and do not want these area's to get really bad.

Thanks.

bazooka joe

05-07-2008, 12:26 PM

I had my semi-annual rust protection done at the dealer this week, and they said that they will not fix my few spots of bubbling rust.

Can you either post or PM me on how much its going to cost to get a few area's touched up on you're car. I'm planning on keeping my car and do not want these area's to get really bad.

Thanks.

well, i'm having other work done as well....he's also a friend so he's not charging me reg shop rates....

Redcoat

05-07-2008, 06:43 PM

I've noticed that a few people have planned to take their P5's to the dealer over the past few weeks to try to have their rust spots 'fixed' under the perforation warranty. Has anyone tried and had any success? Has anyone had success with one dealer after another refused?

thefrog1394

05-07-2008, 06:44 PM

I called mine about a month ago and they said there had to be an actual hole through the rust.

spirosp5

05-08-2008, 12:04 AM

mine said no prob to bubbling rust and my appointment is already taken.

GolerDude

05-08-2008, 03:22 PM

I had my semi-annual rust protection done at the dealer this week, and they said that they will not fix my few spots of bubbling rust.

Can you either post or PM me on how much its going to cost to get a few area's touched up on you're car. I'm planning on keeping my car and do not want these area's to get really bad.

Thanks.

I have bubbling rust in the usual spots that most P5's are getting it, both rear 1/4's over the tires and running boards and to get it fixed they said $500 to $600.

bazooka joe

05-08-2008, 03:30 PM

i'd say it would have to be around $200??? just for the small area on the inside of my drivers door(shrug)

StreetPreacher

05-08-2008, 07:24 PM

not sure if I'm rusting, but I get water build up where the jack should be.

When I pulled out my jack to put the summers back on I had to scrape rust of it before it would crank...

I also have bubbling/peeling paint on the lips of both back wheel wells, and some on the both corners of the hatch. Mine is a 2002 that's been stored outside in Toronto for most of it's life.

I didn't realize that rust was covered under warranty, but my car is over 5 years old so I guess I'm SOL.

gsmooth

05-09-2008, 10:53 AM

nothing like waking up and seeing that good ol Canadian rust blistering in the sun!

i hate it

Diehonda

05-13-2008, 01:26 PM

I didn't realize that rust was covered under warranty, but my car is over 5 years old so I guess I'm SOL.

The 5 year warranty would have been great if it was a 6 year.

I have rust on three doors, two wheel wells, bottom corner of the hatch, and undercarriage.

I stopped looking after that. (bang)

jjac28

05-14-2008, 03:29 PM

Almost every P5 I see has bad rust in the wheel well area, and some are pretty bad...(dunno)
I just removed some surface rust by sanding it down ,applying primer and then painting it...
Lets see how it holds up.

bazooka joe

05-14-2008, 03:40 PM

rust repaired! yay!!(band)

Ross03p5

05-14-2008, 03:47 PM

wow i guess im lucky lol i live in canada and have no rust on my 03 p5

AbbyVonNormal

05-15-2008, 05:18 PM

I am JUST starting to get a weeee bit of rust on the passenger side rear wheel well. But, living in Vermont it is next to impossible to not get rust after living here a few years. With that said, that is really the only rust i have. After reading though this post and looking at the under regions and inards, all looks OK.
I was going to try and preach the warranty everyone mentioned, but since i live 1,500 miles away from the dealership i originally got the car from, i am sure thats a shot in the dark. Though maybe the Dealerships in VT will be more understanding? Who knows.....

Fluffy Bunny

05-16-2008, 12:17 PM

Does anyone know/have seen this same problem with the sedan bodies as well?

Just curious because sometimes you can run into different problems if vehicles were not built at the same location...

Gabio

05-17-2008, 12:38 AM

Same stuff, I have a yellow P5 02.
Got rust on wheel wells, both rear black window rail, some buble on bottom corner of the hatch.
The under of the car is the worse. From time to time I was jacking the car to find some hanging (and rusted) metal sheet, most likely exaust heat sheild that I could torn from my car with my bare hands.

I feel very lucky that it still doesn't look that bad. For the moment there is almost not buble outside and nothing on the logo on the hatch(nana).

Will try to do a paint job this summer and an antirust treatment after. Hopefully If I can get 2 more years out of it I'll be happy.
'till I buy something else like an Impreza. I hope Subaru don't have such trouble.
Mmm Symetrical Awd...

thefrog1394

06-01-2008, 02:02 PM

Does anyone know/have seen this same problem with the sedan bodies as well?

Just curious because sometimes you can run into different problems if vehicles were not built at the same location...

I've got rust bubbling up on both rear wheel wells and like 3 spots on the roof by the front windshield on my 03 LX sedan.

I just chipped away the paint bubbles, sanded down the area, and applied some "rust converter" stuff to a few areas. Its probably going to end up looking worse than the actual bubbles were after I put on the touch up paint, but at least I will know that I got rid of a lot of rust. We'll see if it comes right back next year. I am kind of depressed now though because I found more bubbles on the other wheel well and almost the entire lip of the rear wheel well seems to have rust underneath it. And I'm not going to sand off the paint on my entire car and cover it with touch-up paint!

Damn and I'm planning on getting at least 4 years of college out of this car, plus another couple years afterwards. I can completely see the engine and mechanics lasting that long. And parts for this car are relatively cheap. I guess I'll have to resign myself to driving a car that looks like a complete piece of rusted shit.

DooMer_MP3

06-16-2008, 06:55 PM

I have a 2001 MP3, but thought I'd join in this extensive rust thread. My 2 front doors have rust at the bottom, driver side rear fender lip has rust, black window pillar has rust as well. Really irritating since I took such good care of the car.

I'm debating getting some paint/primer from paintscratch.com and repairing the majority of it myself, even though it'll likely just come right back after a year or so. Ugh. Definitely my first and last Mazda!

Rockin03mp5

06-16-2008, 08:42 PM

I love that pics from fa away don't show all of the rust.

Lest see. I drive 60-80 interstate miles to work. Lots of little chips in the hood. Starting to rust there. Just noticed this year there are like 3 bubbles starting on the roof. (no moon roof) The biggest annoyance is by the rear wheel, where the side moldings rub. On both sides the paint has rubbed off and are starting to rust. Another annoyance is on the rear bumper. Its not metal, but the paint is starting to flake off. I should take some pics, but I like the far ones where you can't see anything. I'm going to be doing some chip repair soon. Bought the touch up paint. Going to practice first on my old 98 Corolla, which is becoming a rust bucket. Thats livin up North for ya!

jjac28

07-25-2008, 04:19 PM

after sanding it down and doing some repainting the rust is back this year and much worse!

now i see bubbles and more rust and more paint peeling off! ....ouch

mx-p5

07-25-2008, 04:20 PM

Sounds like the front of my hood.

May go Carbon Fiber

bazooka joe

07-25-2008, 04:55 PM

freakin cancer man!:'(

mx-p5

07-25-2008, 06:38 PM

Has it got you too?!?!?

I know Kansei's car is soon to be a fatality to it!

Rockin03mp5

07-25-2008, 07:57 PM

I've been practicing patching things on the corolla before I attempt on the pro5. I hope i can get it to look good. Can't be worse than the previous owners blob-like attempts.

bazooka joe

07-26-2008, 04:51 PM

i had little on the inside of my door, at the weep hole...fixed for now, but it will be back!(confused)

nekio

07-26-2008, 05:33 PM

Hi everyone I just purchased a 02 Protege 5 and I would like to know what is the best way to get rid of all the rust (there is a few small spots but nothing deep). Should I go with a complete body cleaning/repainting? and what about cleaning the engine, do all garage offer this service?

This is my first car so I am not 100% sure on how to proceed, I'd like it to last as long as possible. :P

bazooka joe

07-26-2008, 06:55 PM

getting rid of the rust will cost you several hundreds of dollars...the best you can do is chase it around the car..once it starts it's almost impossible to stop without removing the sheet metal completly and installing new skins.

the engine bay you can clean yourself, simple green and a lot of elbow grease is your friend!
this is mine after a long NE winter, sand and salty roads

nekio

07-27-2008, 07:38 PM

Very nice engine, I don't mind putting a few hundreds to get rid of the rust. I guess changing pannels would up that estimate from a few hundreds to a few thousands or is it still affordable?

bazooka joe

07-27-2008, 08:24 PM

Very nice engine, I don't mind putting a few hundreds to get rid of the rust. I guess changing pannels would up that estimate from a few hundreds to a few thousands or is it still affordable?
yup

icarus69

11-02-2008, 10:59 PM

I have a 2002 P5 bought new and after the 4th year the bubbles appeared around the Protoge5 emblem and rear wheel well edge. Fortunately with a help of a friend we have repainted the whole hatch and it turned out pretty good. After 2 years still no rust on it. However I did notice a lot of rust on the bottom of the car so with my friend we have undercoated it with thick undercoating oil. Also, I would like to let everybody know about a product called Fluid Film. It's amazing stuff. It doesn't wash off and it's made of wool wax. I sprayed it inside my doors, hatch, fenders, hood and rocker panel. It's not cheap but it is cheaper than repainting or replacing body panels. You can spray it on rust and it will stop it immediately.
My other rust problem caused a major fuel leak when the bracket holding the fuel pump assembly rusted and caused the plastic housing to crack. Cost me $650.00 to fix. Needless to say I sprayed the shit out of the new metal bracked and surrounding area with Fluid Film.
Right now I'm about replace my oil pan which is about to fall apart from rust.
(p5silver)

Sliver5

11-02-2008, 11:29 PM

Damn dude, where are you from that you're getting rust like that? Do you live by the ocean or something?

bazooka joe

11-03-2008, 08:17 AM

(canada)

flynP5

11-03-2008, 12:16 PM

Damn dude, where are you from that you're getting rust like that? Do you live by the ocean or something?

We pay extra tax here in London, Ontario so that the sanders will put down more salt. (rant)

Nice job on the emblem repair, I have rust on my silver P5 in exactly the same place, plus I've been told that the oil pan is rusted out.

icarus69

11-03-2008, 10:39 PM

No, nowhere near ocean but we probably got just as much salt in winter on our roads. London, Ontario is about 2hrs North-East of Detroit.

br289165

11-03-2008, 10:50 PM

I use POR 15 rust sealant. Works great in salty Michigan. make sure ot top coat it.

Hi everyone I just purchased a 02 Protege 5 and I would like to know what is the best way to get rid of all the rust (there is a few small spots but nothing deep). Should I go with a complete body cleaning/repainting? and what about cleaning the engine, do all garage offer this service?

This is my first car so I am not 100% sure on how to proceed, I'd like it to last as long as possible. :P

icarus69

11-03-2008, 10:59 PM

We pay extra tax here in London, Ontario so that the sanders will put down more salt. (rant)

Nice job on the emblem repair, I have rust on my silver P5 in exactly the same place, plus I've been told that the oil pan is rusted out.

Thanks. All P5's in Ontario must look like mine from the bottom and I think Mazda's paint is inferior to say, Toyota's. Our 10 year old Tercel had barely any rust on it.

Grocery Getter

01-27-2009, 11:59 PM

Yellow 2003 mp5 with rusty rear wells. Rest of the car is clean, but it seems to be a common problem for these cars.

bazooka joe

01-28-2009, 09:16 AM

Yellow 2003 mp5 with rusty rear wells. Rest of the car is clean, but it seems to be a common problem for these cars.
(cryhard)yup, i know 3 yellow p5's with mega rust issues arouns the wheel wells

jjac28

01-28-2009, 12:20 PM

i've always has some rust in the weel wells, i have been sanding and repainting but it always come back in new places. i dread to think how much rust will come out again after this winter. So far , its been small spots here and there but eventually the rust will become uncontrollable ...

VP222

05-14-2009, 12:54 PM

Yellow 2003 mp5 with rusty rear wells. Rest of the car is clean, but it seems to be a common problem for these cars.

I got the same problem in a same area and it keep coming back.

Alamo1

05-14-2009, 02:51 PM

Hey, I've been driving Canadian "Salt-ways" and "Stone-chip-lanes" for over 10 years..... I still have not owned a car that did not rust..... I do have a problem with the $1200 dollar estimate to fix my badge-rust problem but such is life.... Metal is made to corrode, Cars die and America will always find cheaper and crappier ways to make cars that stupid people like us buy. I figure, if it's fun to drive, go till you can see the ground through the floorboards. Then put a 2x4 in there to cover the hole and go for a while longer! Just think of all the good laughs you've had at the rust buckets driving beside you.... The world needs laughter and I'm willing to help for a while...(rofl)

br289165

05-14-2009, 03:14 PM

America, what about your Japanese car Canuck?

Hey, I've been driving Canadian "Salt-ways" and "Stone-chip-lanes" for over 10 years..... I still have not owned a car that did not rust..... I do have a problem with the $1200 dollar estimate to fix my badge-rust problem but such is life.... Metal is made to corrode, Cars die and America will always find cheaper and crappier ways to make cars that stupid people like us buy. I figure, if it's fun to drive, go till you can see the ground through the floorboards. Then put a 2x4 in there to cover the hole and go for a while longer! Just think of all the good laughs you've had at the rust buckets driving beside you.... The world needs laughter and I'm willing to help for a while...(rofl)

onkaimax

05-15-2009, 12:07 AM

I use POR 15 rust sealant. Works great in salty Michigan. make sure ot top coat it.

there are 3 types of por 15, which one u use for exterior?should i go for sem-gloss black or just clear?

br289165

05-15-2009, 12:37 AM

I know of black and silver POR15 to protect from rust, i think the clear is a topcoat.Make sure you coat the POR15 with regular paint or clearcoat because UV will degrade and dull it.

there are 3 types of por 15, which one u use for exterior?should i go for sem-gloss black or just clear?

onkaimax

05-15-2009, 01:50 PM

I know of black and silver POR15 to protect from rust, i think the clear is a topcoat.Make sure you coat the POR15 with regular paint or clearcoat because UV will degrade and dull it.

thx a lot bro, will get the por 15 and fix the rust asap.

br289165

05-15-2009, 06:44 PM

Anytime. i'm bout to sand my rear wheel lips to metal and coat with the black por15 then spray metallic black over it. Do you inner fenderwells and undercarriage, use a wire wheel on a drill to loosen the rust then blow it off with compressed air before applying the por 15.Fuck salt and rust I hate both of em

thx a lot bro, will get the por 15 and fix the rust asap.

onkaimax

05-17-2009, 03:07 AM

Anytime. i'm bout to sand my rear wheel lips to metal and coat with the black por15 then spray metallic black over it. Do you inner fenderwells and undercarriage, use a wire wheel on a drill to loosen the rust then blow it off with compressed air before applying the por 15.Fuck salt and rust I hate both of em

i have bubble rust around the '' protege 5'' on hatch..and chipped rust on the roof...damn..

btw, how's the outcome after u diy fixed with the Por 15, looking good?

OttawablueP5

05-17-2009, 05:11 AM

Just got the rear wheel wells touched up nicely for 240$.

onkaimax

05-17-2009, 12:44 PM

Just got the rear wheel wells touched up nicely for 240$.

any pics?

br289165

05-18-2009, 04:44 AM

End of last summer I coated any place I saw rust any where on the car including undercarriage, rear wheelwells/lips, hatch inne lip, inside rear doors on the b pillar seams. So far the only reoccurrence has been slight spots on the undercarriage and the inside edge of the rear wheel lips. I am going to sand the rear wheelwell lips to bare metal, which I didn't do last summer and re-coat with Por15, then topcoat with metallic black.If you apply the POR15 over the paint without taking the area to bare metal, it will peel,as it doesn't adhere well to paint, that was my 1st time using it, so now I know it must be taken to bare metal. Any areas where I didn't use high pressure water,from the hand wash in winter,remained as they were after last summer's application. We had an extrememly harsh and heavy snowfall winter season here in Mich.last winter with excessive amounts of salt, so I had to spray the car often at the hand wash. I do have some dime sized or smaller spots on the roof from gravel hits(fuck the scumbag Mich. gravelhaulers(fu) that have also broken my windshields and fog lights)that I never treated, but will be sanding down only within the spots and apply the POR15 smoothly as possible, topcoat with black metallic and rub the entire roof out with different polish stages and my rotary polisher. To see true effectiveness of POR15's ability will be when it's looked at carefully after a long hard winter.To the guy who spent $240 on the repair, good luck, before I knew about POR 15, I had that done too and it came back, but I spent more than you did and I wont do it again, I will do it myself and save the money. I actually enjoy taking the time to correct these problems on my own. I do not (knock on wood) have rust around my emblems, but if it's not too deep you might still be able to stop it with some time and effort.

i have bubble rust around the '' protege 5'' on hatch..and chipped rust on the roof...damn..

btw, how's the outcome after u diy fixed with the Por 15, looking good?

GolerDude

05-18-2009, 11:28 AM

End of last summer I coated any place I saw rust any where on the car including undercarriage, rear wheelwells/lips, hatch inne lip, inside rear doors on the b pillar seams. So far the only reoccurrence has been slight spots on the undercarriage and the inside edge of the rear wheel lips. I am going to sand the rear wheelwell lips to bare metal, which I didn't do last summer and re-coat with Por15, then topcoat with metallic black.If you apply the POR15 over the paint without taking the area to bare metal, it will peel,as it doesn't adhere well to paint, that was my 1st time using it, so now I know it must be taken to bare metal. Any areas where I didn't use high pressure water,from the hand wash in winter,remained as they were after last summer's application. We had an extrememly harsh and heavy snowfall winter season here in Mich.last winter with excessive amounts of salt, so I had to spray the car often at the hand wash. I do have some dime sized or smaller spots on the roof from gravel hits(fuck the scumbag Mich. gravelhaulers(fu) that have also broken my windshields and fog lights)that I never treated, but will be sanding down only within the spots and apply the POR15 smoothly as possible, topcoat with black metallic and rub the entire roof out with different polish stages and my rotary polisher. To see true effectiveness of POR15's ability will be when it's looked at carefully after a long hard winter.To the guy who spent $240 on the repair, good luck, before I knew about POR 15, I had that done too and it came back, but I spent more than you did and I wont do it again, I will do it myself and save the money. I actually enjoy taking the time to correct these problems on my own. I do not (knock on wood) have rust around my emblems, but if it's not too deep you might still be able to stop it with some time and effort.

Hey man, this product looks great, I was wondering if you could tell me which products you got from POR 15 that you used and which paint you used to top coat it. Thanks man.

br289165

05-18-2009, 07:04 PM

From the website;check it out.I will be using duplicolor spray as a topcoat for the small areas
http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/
POR-15<SUP>®</SUP> is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture.
Use it to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray.
POR-15<SUP>®</SUP> is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.

<TABLE id=AutoNumber1 style="BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" borderColor=#111111 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="40%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width="38%">Pint............</TD><TD width="62%"> $29.95</TD></TR><TR><TD width="38%">Quart.........</TD><TD width="62%"> $44.95</TD></TR><TR><TD width="38%">Gallon........</TD><TD width="62%">$143.00</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Hey man, this product looks great, I was wondering if you could tell me which products you got from POR 15 that you used and which paint you used to top coat it. Thanks man.

onkaimax

05-18-2009, 09:04 PM

I think por 15 is a really good product!

check this link, someone show how to use this:

http://www.jeep-tech-tips.com/por-15.html

MarvinM02

05-23-2009, 04:37 PM

Anyone know where in Canada i could pick up this por15. Would love to do the underside. Also where is the best place to get the touch up paint?

onkaimax

05-24-2009, 01:11 AM

Anyone know where in Canada i could pick up this por15. Would love to do the underside. Also where is the best place to get the touch up paint?

i think the only way to get the Por15 is to buy it online.

br289165

05-24-2009, 01:16 AM

Painters supply co. we got em here don't know about where u are.

i think the only way to get the Por15 is to buy it online.

Kurtanius21

05-24-2009, 06:22 PM

I've followed this thread and I've become concerned. So the P5 is prone to rusting. I have a P5 in good condition and here's the situation. I plan to keep this car for at least another six years. That's a 13 year old car. Yeah, it's a long time. The car's mileage is only at 25,000 though. I do everything I can to avoid driving it, cause this car has to last me a long time. I baby the car obsessively. I don't accelerate hard. I release the clutch gently every time. Miguiar's NXT polymer wax provides a monthly coat. Oil is changed every 6000miles, synthetic only with amsoil filters. I've bought a $200 car cover for it. You can tell I love my Protege 5.

After reading all the grief of P5 rust problems, I couldn't resist facing the weakness. Ok, I've bought 24oz POR 15. I plan to apply this stuff to the wheel wells and the undercarriage. Apparently the stuff works well according to automotive resoration review sources, but with every modification made to the car, there's risk. The biggest issue being my lack of mechanical experience. I'm not to dextrous with my fingers and I could spill this stuff on my brake pads, rims, and tire. It's a very adhesive substance. The manufacturer testifies spills on skin sticking for days. Also, what if the paint covers a freely moving part? Gosh! So many ways to screw up. I don't want to hurt my P5.

I guess what I'm asking here is whether I should find a professional to apply the stuff. If I do it myself, where should I seek advice? Are there any other rust preventative measures you guys know about?

br289165

05-25-2009, 05:38 PM

1st of all where do you live? 2nd you don't want to coat painted undercarriage surfaces, it will peel off.If there is no rust showing there is no need to use it.change the oil every 3000 since it takes so long for you to put miles on the car, go by time intervals not mileage.What color is the car?

I've followed this thread and I've become concerned. So the P5 is prone to rusting. I have a P5 in good condition and here's the situation. I plan to keep this car for at least another six years. That's a 13 year old car. Yeah, it's a long time. The car's mileage is only at 25,000 though. I do everything I can to avoid driving it, cause this car has to last me a long time. I baby the car obsessively. I don't accelerate hard. I release the clutch gently every time. Miguiar's NXT polymer wax provides a monthly coat. Oil is changed every 6000miles, synthetic only with amsoil filters. I've bought a $200 car cover for it. You can tell I love my Protege 5.

After reading all the grief of P5 rust problems, I couldn't resist facing the weakness. Ok, I've bought 24oz POR 15. I plan to apply this stuff to the wheel wells and the undercarriage. Apparently the stuff works well according to automotive resoration review sources, but with every modification made to the car, there's risk. The biggest issue being my lack of mechanical experience. I'm not to dextrous with my fingers and I could spill this stuff on my brake pads, rims, and tire. It's a very adhesive substance. The manufacturer testifies spills on skin sticking for days. Also, what if the paint covers a freely moving part? Gosh! So many ways to screw up. I don't want to hurt my P5.

I guess what I'm asking here is whether I should find a professional to apply the stuff. If I do it myself, where should I seek advice? Are there any other rust preventative measures you guys know about?

Kurtanius21

05-27-2009, 11:02 PM

She's White.

gsmooth

05-30-2009, 12:24 PM

Anyone know where in Canada i could pick up this por15. Would love to do the underside. Also where is the best place to get the touch up paint?

buying online is correct.

The warehouse is in St. Hubert (on the southshore of Montreal)
http://www.por15canada.com/

order it online or call them up...

I'll be using this shortly myself...the rust is creeping up really fast!

flynP5

05-30-2009, 12:45 PM

I'm gathering information for rust repair and I'm wondering if I will need a angle grinder or power drill?
In most the video's I've been watching, they have used a power drill with a disk pad attached. I only have a 14v cordless power drill, does this have enough juice to do the job?
Also can the Protege emblem be saved if I'm doing repair to that area.

Trotter

06-01-2009, 02:11 PM

Yes, I have had to have my wheels replaced. I am in the process of having 3 other rust areas on my 2002 fixed. Called the dealer and they won't do anything but register the complaint. Body shops claim they see a lot of rust problems with this car.

kingman

07-28-2009, 11:18 PM

So I have become the latest unfortunate p5 owner to suffer from this. My rust is mainly on rear passenger wheel well (small quarter sized bubbling) and an ugly almost fully perforated 3 inch by 4 inch infection around the badge. WTF!!!!

I went in today to get a quote from Maaco.. damn, $1139!!! I went to the mazda dealership here in Ottawa and they were happy to quote me too.. however, the guy who looked at it said he would email me the quote today. Still no email...

Anyways, I picked up a few interesting tidbits from the dealership... it seems that the rust problem is far more prevelant on Mazda vehicles than realized. When the guy was quoting he mentioned that I would not be able to get into the shop until two weeks later since they were backlogged with rust repairs. I asked if they were warranty repairs (mine wasnt as it is an 02 P5) and he said mostly yes. He even nodded towards a dark blue mazda 3 next to mine and that was a late model one (I think). Anyways, I guess I am fortunate that the rust is not as bad as some poor folks on here. I had rustproofing done twice, so I hoping that has staved off some underside rust.

But I am mad.. my father in-law's Camry bought the same year as my P5 has ZERO rust. Heck even his 98 Dodge Caravan has less rust. My wife and I are in the market for a new vehicle, I think we will trade in my dear P5 and get as much as possible for it while the cancer is still localized.

I love my P5, but Im going to get a quote from a smaller shop for cosmetic work and sell.

flynP5

07-29-2009, 10:01 AM

GolerDude

07-29-2009, 03:10 PM

The way I see it, $1139 is a lot cheaper than going out and buying a new car that will probably set you back over $20,000. You're not going to get much more than $5000 for the P5 on a trade or private sale, so if its running good, Keep it.

I too have rust on both rear wheel wells, but only bubbling and some at the rear of the running boards and mine is an 03. So pissed. So I went to a body shop and they quoted me at $1100. The one thing he said to me was watch out for places that say they will GRIND the rust down. This does not fully eliminate the infected metal. So i went to macco and they said the magic words...we will grind it down... so I am no going there. The best way to get rid of rust is to actually SAND BLAST the infected area. So when your looking at shops, ask how they are going to get rid of it. Im getting mine done within the next couple of months. Hope this helps.

kingman

07-30-2009, 11:04 PM

I too have rust on both rear wheel wells, but only bubbling and some at the rear of the running boards and mine is an 03. So pissed. So I went to a body shop and they quoted me at $1100. The one thing he said to me was watch out for places that say they will GRIND the rust down. This does not fully eliminate the infected metal. So i went to macco and they said the magic words...we will grind it down... so I am no going there. The best way to get rid of rust is to actually SAND BLAST the infected area. So when your looking at shops, ask how they are going to get rid of it. Im getting mine done within the next couple of months. Hope this helps.

So I got word back from the last quote, the guy who has is own shop on farm land 5 mins from my place is offering $400 to fix my issues. The interesting point was that he said he was going to sand blast it with a new clear coat on the entire rear panel and wheel well panel. I was impressed of course skeptical at first. Then I got to talk with him and he told me he was in the auto body business for 26 years and works mostly by referral (I was referred to him by the tow truck driver who hauled my p5 when alternator died at an intersection). I have heard nothing but accolades from this guy. I'll let you know how well it turns out once he does the work on my car. I know its a case of buyer beware, but I figure it will at least look better than the crap that is currently infecting my car.

libtech

08-06-2009, 11:55 AM

Hi eeveryone, so I have rust on both rear wells as I mentioned before, the hatch emblem and it looks like the passenger strut has some too as well. That POR15 stuff you have to sand down the rust first or do you just put it over the rust? Reason I ask is, if I sand down the rust on the wells, I know the wells are two thin peice of sheet metal that are spot welded together I believe. If I sand that down they will probably seperate...

Also is there much a guy can do with the rust on the strut tower. Its not right on the tower but just to the side of it.

Wife wants to keep the car for a long time.

br289165

08-06-2009, 01:59 PM

See this site and read the instructions.https://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=16

Hi eeveryone, so I have rust on both rear wells as I mentioned before, the hatch emblem and it looks like the passenger strut has some too as well. That POR15 stuff you have to sand down the rust first or do you just put it over the rust? Reason I ask is, if I sand down the rust on the wells, I know the wells are two thin peice of sheet metal that are spot welded together I believe. If I sand that down they will probably seperate...

Also is there much a guy can do with the rust on the strut tower. Its not right on the tower but just to the side of it.

Wife wants to keep the car for a long time.

libtech

08-12-2009, 01:49 PM

Well, I have decided to take this project on and fix it myself. The body shop wants over $2000 to do the hatch rust and the rear wheel well rust spots.

So being the do it myselfer I am, I figure lets try. It's gotta look better than the rust anyway I figure right? Plus I have done a fender before on another and I really couldnt tel I had sanded and painted it.

So my first undertaking is going to be the hatch with the following steps, tell me what you guys think.

1.) Remove the emblem.
2.) Brush and scrape off as much of that rust under the emblem I can.
3.) Use the POR-15 cleaner
4.) Use the POR-15 Acid Etch
5.) Brush on POR -15 over the rusted area with a bit of overlap
6.) Just when its dry to touch use some body filler over the POR-15
7.) Let dry
8.) Sand down to contour of hatch and a little bit of exsisting good paint so I can feather it out.
9.) Tape off window and other body panels around the back of the hatch.
10.) Paint bomb using silver color matched paint.
11.) Clear Coat.

Thoughts?

Also I had another question, is that emblem put on with a hole in the body, is that why it rusts? I'm wondering even if I do this if its going to keep rusting from the inside due to the hole?. Either way I think the end result will be a bit better than what I have now.

As for the wheel wheels, Im simply going to sand them down a bit, POR-15, prime and paint I think. They will be a tad rough but not nearly like they are now.

shadowncs

08-12-2009, 02:52 PM

Ur brave man, it sounds good to me but I don't know that much anyway.

I noticed my emblem started to bubble and rust appeared on the rear wheel wells as well as in one rear bumper corner. Keeping tuned to your progress, if it works for you I might just do it... next year. Keep us updated.

br289165

08-12-2009, 06:47 PM

show me a pic.

Well, I have decided to take this project on and fix it myself. The body shop wants over $2000 to do the hatch rust and the rear wheel well rust spots.

So being the do it myselfer I am, I figure lets try. It's gotta look better than the rust anyway I figure right? Plus I have done a fender before on another and I really couldnt tel I had sanded and painted it.

So my first undertaking is going to be the hatch with the following steps, tell me what you guys think.

1.) Remove the emblem.
2.) Brush and scrape off as much of that rust under the emblem I can.
3.) Use the POR-15 cleaner
4.) Use the POR-15 Acid Etch
5.) Brush on POR -15 over the rusted area with a bit of overlap
6.) Just when its dry to touch use some body filler over the POR-15
7.) Let dry
8.) Sand down to contour of hatch and a little bit of exsisting good paint so I can feather it out.
9.) Tape off window and other body panels around the back of the hatch.
10.) Paint bomb using silver color matched paint.
11.) Clear Coat.

Thoughts?

Also I had another question, is that emblem put on with a hole in the body, is that why it rusts? I'm wondering even if I do this if its going to keep rusting from the inside due to the hole?. Either way I think the end result will be a bit better than what I have now.

As for the wheel wheels, Im simply going to sand them down a bit, POR-15, prime and paint I think. They will be a tad rough but not nearly like they are now.

P5SurchJunkE

08-13-2009, 05:04 PM

What color P5 do you have? Where do you live? I've got a brand new P5 hatch in my basement that I need to sell, in Yellow. It will be a whole lot cheaper than a dealer, and you wont have to worry about f-ing up your rusty one.

libtech

08-14-2009, 11:09 AM

I'll take a pic later. My P5 is Silver and I am in Canada. If I relaly mess it up I can get one at an autowreckers here anyway. I found a no rusted silver one for $650 CAD. But I figure I can fix mine for less myself so I am going that route first :)

jjac28

08-17-2009, 10:57 AM

These P5 have a serious rust issue. Every P5 that i see has rust problems :(

squig808

08-20-2009, 09:50 PM

I have it on the emblem and passenger rear wheel well. It's starting in the rear door seam as well as the driver door. I have a spot on the inside of the sunroof? I noticed today some rust along a seam in the engine compartment. The engine and most of the mechanical type junk under the car is moderately corroded. I had a funny rattle starting and I was able to just pull out a rusted out exhaust shield by hand.

The '93 HONDA Accord I replaced with this car has less corrosion.

I only have 100,000 kms on this car (~50k I've put on) and it looks like I've treated her like shit. I'm really not that happy with it after ~4years. I'll be buying a Toyota to replace this. I really expected better from a Japanese-made car.

Ed_PR5

08-21-2009, 07:38 AM

I've got rust bubbles on the rear passenger wheel well and the inside/outside edges of the front passenger door. I love the car... hate the rust.

wilddog

09-06-2009, 11:34 AM

My gfs P5 is rusting at the rear wheel wells. As well, I notice that every single P5 on the road has significant rust in the same areas. Her and I will never buy a Mazda every again, nor will anyone in our families.

Rockin03mp5

09-06-2009, 04:14 PM

um... i see 2000 something civics with rust all over their hoods...

mine is rusting too... it happens.

Redcoat

09-07-2009, 11:06 AM

It would not be so disheartening if the rust was localized in areas that are easily replaceable, like fenders or hoods. Rear wheel arches and door skins can be the most tricky items of sheetmetal to replace.

Anyway, mine seems to be localised in the d/s rear wheel arch (dime sized that I just finished repairing) and bubbling along the inside skin of the drivers door. I'm starting to see minute bubbles on the outside of the rear wheel arch at the meeting point of the rear bumper.

Even if you live in the rust belt, in this day and age of automotive sealents and galvanizing, a 6-7 year old car should not be rusting as much as P5's.

This, however, would give me nightmares: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/piston-slap-mazda-protege5-in-god-we-rust/

isbre

09-07-2009, 11:59 AM

...
Even if you live in the rust belt, in this day and age of automotive sealents and galvanizing, a 6-7 year old car should not be rusting as much as P5's.

This is where you are wrong. Cheap production make cars rust very fast. I have seen 3 year old Auidi's that had to replace completely rusted through parts and a 4 year old Mercedes that had to replace the entire floor due to rust. The Norwegian Mazda importer had to replace 90% of the Mazda 3 rear wheel arches due to rust before they treated every car before they was sold. Mazdas has problems with the rear wheel arches since the 80's but are rather good elsewhere.

I treated my MSP with Dinitrol when it was 3years old, and that was not a moment too late because the trunk floor had signs of rust.

flynP5

09-14-2009, 02:07 PM

Also I had another question, is that emblem put on with a hole in the body, is that why it rusts? I'm wondering even if I do this if its going to keep rusting from the inside due to the hole?. Either way I think the end result will be a bit better than what I have now.

Instructions for removing emblem:

http://www.protege5.com/vbb230/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14144

I'm not sure on the hole filling procedure he speaks of, googling could reveal a better way of filling the two small holes.

ganzhimself

09-14-2009, 03:00 PM

I did a really detailed walkaround of my car and found rust in a lot of places. Not overly excited about that at all. Right now, looks like rust in both rear wheel wells, bottom front corner of front drivers side door, bubbling on the lower part of the front passenger door, and a spot on the roof, right on the front edge. It has less rust than the Impala I traded in on it, but for a car that's only 6 years old, that seems to be a lot of areas to be rusting already.

br289165

09-15-2009, 02:39 AM

I agree, it's some bullshit, I Love this car, but they coulda done much better with the steel, startin to see them round here with some serious through rust between rear quarter/bumper gap. The fuckin new Rabbits are double galvanized or some shit, even those shitbox Focuses and Neons seem to get less rust than the Protege's.

I did a really detailed walkaround of my car and found rust in a lot of places. Not overly excited about that at all. Right now, looks like rust in both rear wheel wells, bottom front corner of front drivers side door, bubbling on the lower part of the front passenger door, and a spot on the roof, right on the front edge. It has less rust than the Impala I traded in on it, but for a car that's only 6 years old, that seems to be a lot of areas to be rusting already.

flynP5

09-21-2009, 01:39 PM

Removed the emblem on the weekend & there are two 1/8" holes with rubber inserts.

Today I sanded away the rust down to metal, painted the metal with KBS Rust Paint, then once it dries l will fill in the emblem holes and metal imperfections with bondo light bodyfiller.

2002 MP5

10-01-2009, 09:55 PM

RUST - okay, anybody have updates on how they fixed their rust bucket MP5? Or what shop charged you a reasonable amount to fix it?

Redcoat

10-02-2009, 09:21 AM

RUST - okay, anybody have updates on how they fixed their rust bucket MP5? Or what shop charged you a reasonable amount to fix it?

I just sanded down the inside lip of my d/s rear wheel arch and the inner bottom part of my driver's door down to bare metal. After masking, I sprayed several coats of Rust-O-Leum grey primer and left it at that until I can get a can of Sunlight Silver mixed. It's only been about five weeks but it's looking good so far...

For the record, the whole time I was doing this, I was cursing Mazda for me having to do this to a six year old car that's been garaged all its life. Pitiful.