I can't Get the D$%# Axle out.

[ForceFed]

I have pulled a few axle's....But for the life of me...the ones in the P5 are just seized.

I had to take the Passenger one out as one unit with the Countershaft...as they would not , in any way even think about seperating.

Now.....we can't get the Drivers to release at the Spindle..or the Tranny.
I have used a pry bar to try to pop them, a dead blow on the Spindle side...soaked it in rust buster, Heated the spindle with a torch....Nothing will make this thing free up...I mean nothing.

I am getting the Ox/Acetylene out tonight and I am going to heat the spindle with this Vs the Mapp gas I was using last night.

I hope this does it..OTher wise I am at a loss.

I am trying not to trash anything here....But At this rate..I might just cut the Axle and deal with it from there replacing whatever is needed.This would only allow me to get the motor out...I would still have to get the parts apart somehow after that.

Any input here guys.

[orng1]

I had the same problem with mine as well, what worked for us was an impact hammer. It did damage the tip of the axle but we filled it down to take the edge of. Be careful and of course use an old axle nut so as not to damage the threads. It will only move a little but spray some wd osomething tighten the axle nut and try again, it will work it's way out slowly.

[ForceFed]

I had the same problem with mine as well, what worked for us was an impact hammer. It did damage the tip of the axle but we filled it down to take the edge of. Be careful and of course use an old axle nut so as not to damage the threads. It will only move a little but spray some wd osomething tighten the axle nut and try again, it will work it's way out slowly.We have been doing that..Tightening and loosening trying to get it to budge..It wont move.
Then the second problem is the Tranny side..Its stuck in there as well...I have never seen an axle seized up as this one is.
I am going to try some more heat in a while...We'll see how it goes.

[khaosman]

I had this problem and found out I was a big pussy and had my friend do it :(

But for whatever reason... on his Honda he was having trouble and I was able to get that one out.

Try dynomite?

[ForceFed]

Me and my buddy tried..both..and at once with two prybars on it..No luck..and neither of us are pussies..SO WTH..ITs just a bastard..LOL!!

[Fudgie]

Careful with the heat. Your wheelbearing won't appreciate that much. I have a tool at the shop that looks kind of like a 3 jaw puller. Use 3 lug nuts to hold the legs then crank down on the threaded center section. Then I beat the shit out of it with a hammer while turning it in. Once you get it to pop you'll be golden. As suggested below, a strong air hammer with a tip that fits in the hole in the end of the axle may get it to go for you as well. As for the inner, I've had luck popping it from the topside with a long bar. Goodluck!

[ForceFed]

Well..Man..
I went out to the Garage....I beat on it a bit..hit it with the impact again....Smacked it around and Called it my little Whore...and it finally Gave up and broke loose...No heat...Just a bit of Pure concentration....And some good swings of the Hammer.

I even got the other one seperated from the countershaft...It wouldn't budge last night either.

I think the Break and the Rust Buster..Did the trick.

Now if I didnt forget the hooks for the Lift chain..the motor would be out and on the Stand...But no...It'll have to wait one more day while I get hooks or an Engine Tilter tomorrow.

[sephiroth]

Well..Man..
I went out to the Garage....I beat on it a bit..hit it with the impact again....Smacked it around and Called it my little Whore...and it finally Gave up and broke loose...No heat...Just a bit of Pure concentration....And some good swings of the Hammer.

I even got the other one seperated from the countershaft...It wouldn't budge last night either.

I think the Break and the Rust Buster..Did the trick.

Now if I didnt forget the hooks for the Lift chain..the motor would be out and on the Stand...But no...It'll have to wait one more day while I get hooks or an Engine Tilter tomorrow.

you're lucky that yours came out. when I did my passenger side not even 40 tons from a hydraulic press could remove the axle from the spindel..had to spend $500 on all new parts.

[ForceFed]

you're lucky that yours came out. when I did my passenger side not even 40 tons from a hydraulic press could remove the axle from the spindel..had to spend $500 on all new parts.That sucks...But thats what I thought I was gonna have to do myself....I just said "The hell with it"...If I am gonna buy new...I'll be damned if I don't try my hardest to get this one out.

[Aricjm15]

I used a pnumatic hammer last time I did one, emptied my 60 gallon compressor about two or three times.

[mspHtown]

what makes it even better is how the shop manual says to just tap it out!

[Maxx Mazda]

I think you're talking about the axle in the wheel hub? Or the tranny?

For the tranny, you need to pry it, but be forcefull you need to break the little clip that holds it in. (They can NOT be reused!) For the wheel hub, it's a CUNT! It's a 1 1/4" nut. When you put it back on, smear the flat side (and threads) with anti sieze. Did that last year, and just last weekend they came right off when I pulled the tranny. Remember to bend those tabs out of the way first, and replace the nuts with new ones.

[mspHtown]

I think you're talking about the axle in the wheel hub? Or the tranny?

For the tranny, you need to pry it, but be forcefull you need to break the little clip that holds it in. (They can NOT be reused!) For the wheel hub, it's a CUNT! It's a 1 1/4" nut. When you put it back on, smear the flat side (and threads) with anti sieze. Did that last year, and just last weekend they came right off when I pulled the tranny. Remember to bend those tabs out of the way first, and replace the nuts with new ones.

the axle in the wheel hub. both of mine were frozen. with a mallet, impact hammer, and a 5 ton gear puller i eventually broke the driver side loose. i broke the gear puller on the passenger side and could not release the axle from the hub. so i had to remove the entire assembly.

[Maxx Mazda]

Wierd... Mine just slid out of the hubs with a few gentle taps from the hammer...

[ForceFed]

Wierd... Mine just slid out of the hubs with a few gentle taps from the hammer...This makes you lucky...Salt Killed mine..I know thats what did it.
And what clips break?
I saw something in the manual about Clips that need replacing..but I didnt see anthing broken when I pulled mine.

[Maxx Mazda]

This makes you lucky...Salt Killed mine..I know thats what did it.
And what clips break?
I saw something in the manual about Clips that need replacing..but I didnt see anthing broken when I pulled mine.

The clips that hold the axle into the tranny... Uh oh... Your's didn't stay IN the tranny did they? Change your axle seals too, they need to be done.

[ForceFed]

The clips that hold the axle into the tranny... Uh oh... Your's didn't stay IN the tranny did they? Change your axle seals too, they need to be done.
Even if they did..the tranny is coing apart in the next week or so for the LSD swap...so no biggie.

[orng1]

I didn't have any issues with the clips the axle came out smooth, once it was out of the hub that is. I guess I was lucky or that I don't live where the weather is bad.

[therieldeal]

a note to everyone... COAT the splines on the spindle end with that silver anti seize stuff when you reassemble. i can swap axles in about 15 minutes, they slide right out :).

oh and for getting them out of the tranny, prying rarely works well.. you need to hit the end of the prybar with a small sledge. the quick shock will usually pop the circlip loose after just a couple blows. the axles popped right out of my '91 with 181k miles using this method :).

[WRCprotege]

i took them apart when i had the same problem, after 4 motor swaps in my car, lord knows iv done this enough...3 04 bolts that hold the half shaft up on the block, remove those, 17mm i think..remove from thanny and the hub half, them the other comes out much easier.. :)

[ItsSlow]

I had the same problem getting the driverside axle out of my trans.. Took alot of force and time to get it out though.. Havent been able to get them loose from the hubs.. I just leave them in..

[Maxx Mazda]

I had the same problem getting the driverside axle out of my trans.. Took alot of force and time to get it out though.. Havent been able to get them loose from the hubs.. I just leave them in..

Why the hell can't anyone get them out of the hubs? I just tapped mine with a ball peen (like I mean just to nudge them free) and they popped right out. My car has like 130,000Km's too. None of it in the winter though... Maybe it's the salt?

[ForceFed]

My car has like 130,000Km's too. None of it in the winter though... Maybe it's the salt?Bingo..The Salt corrodes the Hub abd the Shaft and they rust together.
If you havent ever tried to get one apart after this process....you have NO idea.

[Maxx Mazda]

Bingo..The Salt corrodes the Hub abd the Shaft and they rust together.
If you havent ever tried to get one apart after this process....you have NO idea.

Then quit driving through salt... DUH!!!!!!

[DubbyDoo]

what clips are yall talking about on the trany side of the axle the little c clip? mine didnt break and i put it back in. was a bitch to get the drivers side out bout half hour of pulling and tugging on it

[ForceFed]

Then quit driving through salt... DUH!!!!!!Hey man....Winter sucks..
and I have never even driven this car..I bought it strictly to build...Its never even been titled in my name yet..so there!
LOL!

Previous owner obviously thought it was a snow plow though...Front buper was busted and lots of corrossion I am having to clean up and deal with.

[Maxx Mazda]

what clips are yall talking about on the trany side of the axle the little c clip? mine didnt break and i put it back in. was a bitch to get the drivers side out bout half hour of pulling and tugging on it

If it came out, it did break. They're listed by Mazda as a "non reuseable item" and must be replaced. Otherwide your axle could (in theory) come loose while driving, but the odds of that are slim. More than likely though, you'll get a big 'ol leak from your axle seal.

[ForceFed]

I don't know man..I cant see what could have possibly broke on these...they are just little locking C-clips.

I will have to examine them a bit better.

[ItsSlow]

Why the hell can't anyone get them out of the hubs? I just tapped mine with a ball peen (like I mean just to nudge them free) and they popped right out. My car has like 130,000Km's too. None of it in the winter though... Maybe it's the salt?

The first time I ever had to remove my trans, it was cake getting them out of the hubs and trans.. They just popped out with a tap, ever since then its been a pain.. I hardly drive my car and I dont drive it through salt I know.. So I dont know what the deal could be..

[Maxx Mazda]

I don't know man..I cant see what could have possibly broke on these...they are just little locking C-clips.

I will have to examine them a bit better.

They're now over expanded or however you want to call it.... Compare it to a new one and you'll see. Besides, you only need one unless you seperated the axle from the intermediate shaft on the pass. side, then you'd need 2.

The dealer charged me $1.28 per clip, hardly not worth it not to replace them...

[ItsSlow]

Welp, I guess Ill change them out now that Ive gotta pull my trans again.. It has a big ass crack in the case..

[ForceFed]

They're now over expanded or however you want to call it.... Compare it to a new one and you'll see. Besides, you only need one unless you seperated the axle from the intermediate shaft on the pass. side, then you'd need 2.

The dealer charged me $1.28 per clip, hardly not worth it not to replace them...
I hear ya..True.
Got a part number for them..or do I have to search..and yeah..I took it all apart..LOL..I'll need 2.

[Kooldino]

A few months ago, I had trouble getting one of these out on a customer's 02 p5 that has never been worked on before. It took a lot of blows with a 3lb sledge, but I eventually got it loose. I ended up smacking it so hard that the metal mushroomed out and I had to grind around the perimeter to get it back to size!

[Kooldino]

PS - @Forcefed - why on earth was this posted in Forced Induction?

Moved to trans...not that it's a great fit here either.

[Protege5 Driver]

Welp, I guess Ill change them out now that Ive gotta pull my trans again.. It has a big ass crack in the case..
i have a case!

[CustomMSP]

Forcefed,

You better get new C-clips, otherwise you'll have a hell of a time getting the axle to pop back inside the tranny when reinstalling it.

[ForceFed]

Forcefed,

You better get new C-clips, otherwise you'll have a hell of a time getting the axle to pop back inside the tranny when reinstalling it.It's all good..I am gonna order them this week when I get my new WP and some other Stuff from Ken @ PG.
No worries (wink)

[ItsSlow]

i have a case!

So do I..

[Maxx Mazda]

Part number G504-25-421

2 are Needed ONLY if you took the pass. side axle off the intermediate shaft. Otherwise, you jsut need one for the driver's side. Like I said, for jsut over a buck, you can't go wrong...

[ItsSlow]

^Thanks..

[Maxx Mazda]

^Thanks..

No prob. Change your axle seals and input shaft seal as well. Mazda deems those as replace only items. Sure you can reuse them, but once again, is a $4 seal worth a trans leak and a wasted weekend to you?

[ForceFed]

Axle Seal(s)?
And Input shaaft seal?
You cant tell me this unless you list the Part #'s....C'mon man..dont you know I am lazy.

[Maxx Mazda]

Fuck me you're one lazy ass bitch...

Input shaft seal: 0603-16-103
Axle seals: F003-27-238A (need 2)

[ItsSlow]

Is the input shaft part# for the intermediate shaft or what?

[Maxx Mazda]

Is the input shaft part# for the intermediate shaft or what?

No, its for the input shaft... Hence the name "input shaft part number."

The intermediate shaft is what connects the pass. side axle to the trans. It's that one with the 3 bolts holding it's bracket onto the back of the block.

[ForceFed]

Fuck me you're one lazy ass bitch...


Thanks!

[Maxx Mazda]

Thanks!


Hahahaha you must make your mama proud! :D

[SLA]

A few months ago, I had trouble getting one of these out on a customer's 02 p5 that has never been worked on before. It took a lot of blows with a 3lb sledge, but I eventually got it loose. I ended up smacking it so hard that the metal mushroomed out and I had to grind around the perimeter to get it back to size!

Same thing happened to me on my passenger side when I recently did my 5lug swap. Driverside came out with a few taps.

[riverrunnernky1]

Whadd aapp!

Angles to make the blow, and such, I'm having one hec of atime with my BF LH axle stuck in the tranny.

What a day at the beech! lmao not really, It sluggs man!

Sum buddy hepp me!!(stooges)

David
Ky

Was not aware we can use F.U.C.K. and such verbage on this site.

Cool, I'm biligual too!



a note to everyone... COAT the splines on the spindle end with that silver anti seize stuff when you reassemble. i can swap axles in about 15 minutes, they slide right out :).

oh and for getting them out of the tranny, prying rarely works well.. you need to hit the end of the prybar with a small sledge. the quick shock will usually pop the circlip loose after just a couple blows. the axles popped right out of my '91 with 181k miles using this method :).

[riverrunnernky1]

Then quit driving through salt... DUH!!!!!!


In all due respect to anyone not living in the Buckeye, driving in winter Ohio is like diving your car through the ocean daily.

I completely disasembled a 92 Camen EGT last fall from Akron, it was truly a rust bucket without barnacles.

I torched the axles on that baby at the spindles to free them.

The trouble is now pulling my BF LH shaft from the tranny.

I've been working on it everyday (intermittently) and no luck 5 days.

I am fast coming to the find that I must be a Lezbian!(rant)

David
Ky

[MP3Performance]

Glad to see I'm not the only one with this problem. I am trying to replace my passengers side CV axle shaft but I can't get the axle nut off for the life of me. I Sprayed about 1 and half cans of liquid wrench and WD40, used an impact gun, a breaker bar, butane, mapp gas, and plain old pounding with a heavy hammer. 3 hours and and all I have to show for it is NOTHING. It was very rusted earlier, and most of the rust has come off, but still hasn't budged any. I guess I have to go try a Ox/Acetylene torch or something, I am running out of ideas.

[sam1]

Just buy a new spindle man. Torching it off is going to damage the rest of it anyways. Couldn't be to much from a junkyard...

[FunkRider]

Take the centercap out of the wheel or use the spare tire so you can get at the hub nut with the wheel on. Stick a socket and long breaker bar on it that will touch the ground. On the passenger side turn the wheel to the right and set the breaker bar on the nut so the bar is touching or close to touching the ground and drive the car forward slightly. It should either break the stocket/breaker bar or get the nut loose.

[MP3Performance]

Take the centercap out of the wheel or use the spare tire so you can get at the hub nut with the wheel on. Stick a socket and long breaker bar on it that will touch the ground. On the passenger side turn the wheel to the right and set the breaker bar on the nut so the bar is touching or close to touching the ground and drive the car forward slightly. It should either break the stocket/breaker bar or get the nut loose.

Hmmm, interesting idea. Can I assume this has ever been tried out? I think the socket would pop out though if no one is holding it at the end. If this doesn't work I will try an "operation" (ie cutting it off). I had to cut my endlinks in order to get them off, so I might try it if all else fails. I have been spraying it with liquid wrench for the last few hours, hopefully it will help in the morning if I let it sit over night.

[FunkRider]

I have done it in the past.

[MP3Performance]

I got it out on saturday. Had to cut the top of the nut off straight flush, and then had a perfect position to hit it with a hammer and chisel. After a couple hard hits it finally started to spin off. The only bad part is that my problem is still there. I replaced the cv joint, but I still get a "thunking" sound when I turn left or hold the wheel a bit to the left. I think it might be a bearing or seal in the part that holds the half shaft right behind the engine (under the intake manifold).

[Chawk]

i doubt that it is the seal that you are speaking of, i have a 99 protege and the right halfshaft goes into the tranny and there is a metal bracket that bolts onto the frame of the car. (from what i remember) I do think that the problem is probably the bearing. or maybe the bushings for the control arm. Have you done the 12 and 6 check on the ball joint to see if there is movement there?

[MP3Performance]

i doubt that it is the seal that you are speaking of, i have a 99 protege and the right halfshaft goes into the tranny and there is a metal bracket that bolts onto the frame of the car. (from what i remember) I do think that the problem is probably the bearing. or maybe the bushings for the control arm. Have you done the 12 and 6 check on the ball joint to see if there is movement there?

I replaced the bearing under the intake manifold that holds the half shaft and I still have the problem. I don't see any brackets that bolt to the frame of the car, only to the back of the engine. I did not do the 12 and 6 check, how do I do this and what should I check for? I am really stumped at this point. (shrug)

[Chawk]

I have pulled my tranny twice and I honestly do not remember where that right halfshaft bolts too. I do remember having a hard time to get the axle to pop out of the hub, but I just beat the shit out of it with a hammer and it came loose. as far as getting it out of the tranny I put a chain around the end that connects to the tranny and just yanked on some slack and it pulled right out.

Now the ball joints are tested by rasing the front left or the front right wheel. then put you hand at 12 oclock and the other at 6 oclock then start applying pressure one side at the time. if there is obvious movement then this should warrent replacing of the ball joints.

the tie rods can be tested the same way. except by putting a hand at 3 and another at 9 and check for movement.

I think that the problem could be coming from the bushings where the control arm bolts to the frame. or check for worn out bushings at the stablizer bar. If it were me i would not even replace anything unless I absolutely knew that to be the problem.

[smiley10070]

I just had to replace my transmission. everything was going fine, till i had to pull the axles, i got the inner cv separated from the intermediate shaft and everything came to a stand still. nothing worked to get the axles out. so i tied to get them out from the inside, separated the bellhousing from the transaxle housing and put a prybar in between the diff pin and the end of the axle and push them out. but nothing. sp i said to hell with it, got the oxy/acet kit out and cut the top of the planetary, and a little of the bottom. and the friggin things fell out. i didnt really care, i was replacing the tranny.

[ismellrealbad]

I'm glad to hear other people have had the same issue with the axles being seized in the hubs. I did my clutch a couple weeks ago and ran into this ridiculous problem. 130k and no rust? cmon they should slide right the fuck out.

Anyways both sides were stuck in the hubs. Tried a 3lb and all i did was mushroom the ends and couldn't get the nuts back on. Grounded off the excess and tried a propane torch and harbor freight pos 3 jaw puller. Shattered the puller. Then found a good quality 2 jaw. I stripped the threads of the 2 jaw but it did finally break it free. Coated that bitch in 2lbs of anti-seize. Driver side is still stuck. I ended up removing the trans with the axles dangling in the hub. I have to pull the trans again now that its broken and replace it so I'll be getting a better puller to get that ds out and have an easier time removing and reinstalling the trans.

a big (fu) to protege axles. never had so much trouble ever before with any car.

[orng1]

LOL all to familiar, I had to grind the axles after I mushroomed the tips from using an impact hammer on them. Took days since I could only work on it a few hrs at a time. One day one axle the next the other. Each time only moving a few MM at a time.

[jhl385]

I just did my drivers side halfshaft (axle) and had the same problem. I'd never done a job like this before so I thought it was me. And although I live in Akron, OH, I didn't have any rust issues, it was just a bitch getting it out of the spindle so I removed the spindle with the axle still intact. In fact, I took it to a machine shop and had them press the axle out and figured I'd do the wheel bearing since the spindle was in the hands of the shop.
Now I have a leak where the halfshaft joins the transaxle. And no, I didn't replace the seal. After reading the previous posts, I'll pull it apart and install a new seal and clip. Too bad I didn't catch this thread till AFTER I did the job. Oh well, it should go a lot quicker the second time around.