sound system opinions

[joelnazab]

hey guys i was thinking of putting some subs on my car and i decided to go with a pair of 12in. L7 kickers.. or 12in. alpine type r.. i dont know wich ones and im going to keep the stock stereo by the way .. well the problem comes here alot of people are telling me to go with 10in. becouse the back of the car is going to drop and its gonna really affect the performance of my mazda i have a 2008 mazda3 2.3 automatic by the way lol

[Demi]

They both sound alright, and put out quite a bit of noise. I doubt that you will get anywhere near what the type-r's like in terms of enclosure size. Type-rs do not respond well to sealed enclosures (same with the 7s) and the consensus is that they like 2.5 cubes PER 12", just like theyre big brother the type-X. I have an X (not in the car yet) in 2.4 cubes at 31ish hz, and it sounds deep and amazing.....and it weighs about 120lbs. Thats alot of weight. If you are concerned with weight you might need to steer away from these ground pounders and get you an SQ sub that will perform well in smaller boxes, and sealed...say some sound splinter or the PG sd12ds. Two of the PGs sealed would not only sound great but would look hot too. They weigh next to nothing.

[fourthmeal]

hey guys i was thinking of putting some subs on my car and i decided to go with a pair of 12in. L7 kickers.. or 12in. alpine type r.. i dont know wich ones and im going to keep the stock stereo by the way .. well the problem comes here alot of people are telling me to go with 10in. becouse the back of the car is going to drop and its gonna really affect the performance of my mazda i have a 2008 mazda3 2.3 automatic by the way lol

Hi Joel,

I put a few links on my signature for help with this car and how to build a system with it. Feel free to look at those links if you like.

I want to comment on subs and such:

I'm not a fan of the square L7's (or other square subs) because they simply don't model well. What I mean by that is that it is nearly impossible to make them fit properly via calculations (on a program like WinISD), and what happens is that a lot of people just throw these subs into ultra-small boxes compared with what they model out to fit. This small box makes them sound peaky, and as such they'll hit only a few notes well, while the rest of the frequency range will be weak or distorted. All in all, not a good thing!

I have a single 10" Eclipse LMT sub in my car, and most people think its more then enough, so I'm not a fan of multiple subs unless you feel you need them. There is no way in hell it will sound balance with more then one good sub (powered appropriately), but some people need more bass then the rest of the musical range, and for those people, multiple subs are sometimes the answer. I say this because I used to use two 10" JL subs all the time, but lately with subs getting better and better, it is getting more and more unnecessary to build a system with multiple subs, especially in a hatchback (a design that by its very nature amplifies 60-80hz bass frequencies tremendously.)

I will leave you with those links I mentioned, and I offer my help anytime if you like. Please post on your own thread rather then PM, that way others who follow this thread will see a consistent conversation and perhaps learn something along the way (or contribute!)

[joelnazab]

well now im am dowstepping thinking of either l7 or alpine typr r but in a 10in. .. i have no idea what e;lse i need i want to keep the stock stereo will it sound good? i can get the 10in. kicker l7's for $150

[fourthmeal]

The stock head unit is fine. Once again, I encourage you to take a look at the links on my signature, as they deal directly with this issue.

If you have a non-Bose head unit, then most likely you'll need to invest in some sort of processor that can restore a flat signal output to your aftermarket gear. The stock head unit has circuitry designed to kill off all low frequencies, and most high frequencies...it looks like a plateau if graphed. This is BAD for aftermarket audio, because all the good stuff (deep bass, great high end) are missing, and no matter what nice speakers you buy, you'll still end up missing those frequency ranges. The only way to get them back (without replacing the stock head unit) is to equalize the lost frequencies back to something near flat. Its important to tell you now that the rear speaker output is almost useless even with a processor, so it is best to focus your efforts on the front outputs only.

To do this, you've got options, depending on how committed you are to good sound quality. We've covered this in great detail (on the links I provided you), so I won't get that deep into it this time around...but know that you need to do something, otherwise anything you do or buy will be in vain. Budget $100-600 depending on just how you want to fix this problem, and use the links to decide what you want route you want to take...you've got options.

All this is not as important if you have a Bose head unit, which actually plays very flat in output. So if you're lucky to have one, you don't need the processor I mentioned above.

Now, the next thing to do is make a budget for sound deadening. DON'T even do a damn thing to this car if you aren't going to put sound deadening in it. Its that important. I recommend Raammat and Ensolite, both sold by Rick at www.raamaudio.com, a great place to do business IMO. Plan on a roll of mat, and 4 yards of Ensolite (as well as 2 cans of adhesive to properly attach the Ensolite.)

After deadening, you should notice that even the stock speakers sound WAY better, so you have choices to make. If you want just bass, then simply add a sub amp, a quality subwoofer, and a good sealed box, and wire in the right processor to the front speaker outs (while not disconnecting the factory wiring, just tapping into it.)

However, its my opinion that anything worth doing is worth doing right and well, so I recommend installing a quality set of component speakers in the front end, and a subwoofer. This is covered in detail in those links I mentioned, and I won't go into it here.


Lastly, we just were talking about how the L7 isn't really a good idea for a car because the box that it needs is HUGE, despite what Kicker suggests. Real world testing of things like this prove that they're not correct if you want flat, powerful sound.

Off the top of my head, I'll recommend some brands for you:

Alumapro (for subs)
Boston Acoustics (for subs and components)
Re Audio
JBL
JL Audio
Eclipse
Diamond Audio
Polk Audio
Pioneer Premier (for amps and front speaker components...only select models)

There are many more, but as a general rule, look for something that is known in the SQ world as opposed to SPL, flash and glitz

A lot of people get somewhat fearful of what a good system will end up costing them, and truthfully you can't do much with a few hundred bucks. Typically your wiring, sound deadening, and basic materials will cost this much! My suggestion is to reserve as little as $800, as much as $2000 (depending on your goals and your system expectations, especially if you are not installing it yourself.)

One great thing about good audio, truly good equipment, is that you can typically use it again and again, and everything will work fine for a long, long time. My best amps are somewhat new to me, but they are of a mid-90's vintage. My faithful JL subs are from '98. I've been able to use the same 4 gauge power wire in 4 cars over time! Stuff lasts if you take care of it, and if you install with care and attention to detail. Care while de-installing also helps, LOL.

Audio is a subject near and dear to me, so feel free to ask if you have questions.

[SuperStretch18]

...Its important to tell you now that the rear speaker output is almost useless even with a processor, so it is best to focus your efforts on the front outputs only...

*threadjack alert!*
I apologize if you have answered this in other posts, but can you go into more detail regarding the rear speaker output? I have a pile of equipment sitting in my dining room and your statement may have some implications on how I wire everything up... (spin)

[Demi]

Lastly, we just were talking about how the L7 isn't really a good idea for a car because the box that it needs is HUGE, despite what Kicker suggests. Real world testing of things like this prove that they're not correct if you want flat, powerful sound.

Off the top of my head, I'll recommend some brands for you:

Alumapro (for subs)
Boston Acoustics (for subs and components)
Re Audio
JBL
JL Audio
Eclipse
Diamond Audio
Polk Audio
Pioneer Premier (for amps and front speaker components...only select models)

True story. Like we have both said both of your choices require much more space than what the producers recommend. They fudge the numbers to attract a larger consumer group. Im not sure who has you hooked on the hype-arrrs and the L7s, but while good subs, they are not for the purpose you are wanting to use them. Again my recommendation goes with Phoenix Gold RSd12D. Can be found here...
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17536
and can be found even cheaper on other sites. Do not let the price fool you, this is one of the best kept secrets in car audio, Ive installed 3 systems built around this sub and everyone sounds AMAZING. Ive owned type-r 10"s and 12"s and this sub is an AMAZING SQ sub that puts the Rs to shame. My buddy has an L7 in his ride and while its louder, noise is not music. Also while rated @ 500W MANY have installed these running around 1000W, and even as high as 1500w by some accounts. For more info do a forum search at,
www.caraudio.com/forum
Great sub, awesome sound, even better price, and feather weight. Hands down.

[fourthmeal]

I'll pitch in by saying that I've not had the same luck with proper box sizing on the RSd 12", the T/S params required some 3cubic/ft of room or something wild like that to get .707 Qtc. That said, if you had the room it is a great sub! I'm a bigger fan (for new or budget buyers) of the JBL GTO, Alumapro, Boston, Diamond, and Eclipse subs amongst others.

Regarding the rear speaker outputs...hate to sound like a broken record but the information you seek is in the links in my signature. It is a complex topic that I've covered (along with many other contributors!), too complex and lengthy for a discussion of it here but feel free to hop on the link and see what you need to know.

[kimcheeboy_16]

i'll pitch in by saying. that i own a 12inch type R, and the sound is clear, and it does put out a bump. my recommendations for a sub though, is the RE Subs, those subs are clean and also can put out some noise. look them up, just my advice...

[Demi]

i'll pitch in by saying. that i own a 12inch type R, and the sound is clear, and it does put out a bump. my recommendations for a sub though, is the RE Subs, those subs are clean and also can put out some noise. look them up, just my advice...

RE's are fantastic! However dont most of the models weigh in fairly heavy? Also ive found good results with the rSD12s with 1.4 cubes, which is much less room than the Rs or 7s. Seemed to like to be tune low, i cant remember just now but i think the last i built was 24-28hz...ish.

[fourthmeal]

Once upon a time, when I was constantly called on to model subs for people, I used WinISD and discovered that the T/S params of the RSd subs (I am talking about the 2005-06 line..maybe different now??) called for a large box to get .707.

Try it out on WinISD and maybe throw the screenshot on the thread...I'd do the same but no internet at home (only at work) means I can't play with WinISD and show you.

FYI my Eclipse SW8000 LMT sub is at least 30lbs...feels like more then that but that's probably because its so small relative to what it weighs. While its not great to have extra weight in the car, keep in mind that a well-designed fiberglass enclosure (or use of good lightweight woods) can keep things under control in the weight department. I mean, hell, you should be using more then 30 lbs of raammat if everything is going well...so what's a few extra pounds for the sub you want?

[Demi]

Guess thats true, for me i look at it like this....how often am i WOT? Well quite a bit, but not nearly as much as I find myself listening to music. If you are going to a track you can take the system out. Of course you cant take out the Dynamat or whatever, but hell at least it cuts down on road noise. I get a real kick out of punching my car all the way up to 140mph, but shit im going back to the states so when i can i do that?! I can listen to music all the time. I guess more than anything im trying to play up the importance of GOOD sounding subs, too many guys have ground shakers that sounds like ass. I know, i did it too. My one type-x sounds better than any sub ive heard in a while and still shakes my hair. Dont get caught up in the DB race. Get something that sounds good and you will be much happier.

[matty429]

Once upon a time, when I was constantly called on to model subs for people, I used WinISD and discovered that the T/S params of the RSd subs (I am talking about the 2005-06 line..maybe different now??) called for a large box to get .707.

Try it out on WinISD and maybe throw the screenshot on the thread...I'd do the same but no internet at home (only at work) means I can't play with WinISD and show you.

FYI my Eclipse SW8000 LMT sub is at least 30lbs...feels like more then that but that's probably because its so small relative to what it weighs. While its not great to have extra weight in the car, keep in mind that a well-designed fiberglass enclosure (or use of good lightweight woods) can keep things under control in the weight department. I mean, hell, you should be using more then 30 lbs of raammat if everything is going well...so what's a few extra pounds for the sub you want?

I'm curious, How come you are so anti-aftermarket head unit?
Sure it sounds ok, but what about adding Video, 5.1, Bluetooth, ipod touch screens, etc?

I'm asking because I truly value your opinion and knowledge on the matter.

[fourthmeal]

Thank you for the compliment. I am not anti-aftermarket on most cars, just cars that have their head unit so deeply integrated into the car. Our car has such a head unit (on the 3's), so its more of a forced issue rather then a choice. I spent about $500 on a processor that a $350 head unit could have easily beat, so if I could have installed a head unit and not lost any of the car's features, I would have. But this car isn't one of those made to replace the stocker very easily. The aesthetics of the dashboard are compromised with any current version of dash kit, and you lose the trip computer and clock function (not critical, but worth mentioning.) You also then need to spend money on a steering wheel repeater, so that's an issue.

I think that if you need a replacement head unit for one reason or another, then certainly you should go ahead and replace it. But the stock head unit has good sonic performance (at least the potential for it.) You've got a choice to make, though. I love Alpine and Eclipse head units, and I've got a few stuffed away in my closet. But this car isn't going to get one, until someone makes a good looking dash kit with an integrator for the display built into the dash.


I'm curious, How come you are so anti-aftermarket head unit?
Sure it sounds ok, but what about adding Video, 5.1, Bluetooth, ipod touch screens, etc?

I'm asking because I truly value your opinion and knowledge on the matter.

[matty429]

Thank you for the compliment. I am not anti-aftermarket on most cars, just cars that have their head unit so deeply integrated into the car. Our car has such a head unit (on the 3's), so its more of a forced issue rather then a choice. I spent about $500 on a processor that a $350 head unit could have easily beat, so if I could have installed a head unit and not lost any of the car's features, I would have. But this car isn't one of those made to replace the stocker very easily. The aesthetics of the dashboard are compromised with any current version of dash kit, and you lose the trip computer and clock function (not critical, but worth mentioning.) You also then need to spend money on a steering wheel repeater, so that's an issue.

I think that if you need a replacement head unit for one reason or another, then certainly you should go ahead and replace it. But the stock head unit has good sonic performance (at least the potential for it.) You've got a choice to make, though. I love Alpine and Eclipse head units, and I've got a few stuffed away in my closet. But this car isn't going to get one, until someone makes a good looking dash kit with an integrator for the display built into the dash.

Thanks for the explaination...

I have the Alpine IVA-D105 with the Digital Theater Amp plus another Alpine amp for the sub. both tucked under the front seats..
I have the steering wheel control adapter...I can flip the screen up and down by holding down the mute button....I do miss the trip comp though, but I'm guessing I might be able to get that back one day.

I think I may have been more willing to give the stock unit a go if the 6 Disk played MP3, or a decent Ipod solution existed...

[Demi]

Ive got a thought, and im sure some one has addressed this somewhere, but would it be possible to extend the wiring harness for the radio and move it to the trunk? That way you could keep your screen, clock, and ECS information and still install an after market unit?

[fourthmeal]

Its actually much, much tougher then that. You'd need the factory head unit or a bypass (which is made in Japan for just such a reason) to get the info.

[joelnazab]

aright i went to get an estimate the guy said that the 12in. alpine would be the same as the 12in l7 kickers (what do u say)... n e ways for two of either a 3000w amp an epicenter dont know what it is.. the lil box thing to keep the stock stereo the wireing.. the trunk kit so it wont raddle and the tube thing that helps the battery for 1000 oh and the custop encloser for the subs??????????

[joelnazab]

oh i forgot and an alpine amp for the regular 6 speakers.. all this wont blow up my h/u right?

[Demi]

first the tube thing is a capacitor. Most feel these to be largely useless and more of a scam than anything else. There is more to it than this but vaugely the reasoning is that a cap completly discharges in roughly .2 seconds after that your electrical system has to recharge it an keep the system playing (it should be mentioned that they charge very quickly too). In the instances where they do help its more of a band-aid fix as bass note such as the ones from a bass guitar, are not short bassi bursts and there for deplete the charge early leaving you with uneven output. If you need a cap, you need the "big 3",a bigger Alt, a battery upgrade or all three. Also I assume you are talking about the alpine type-r. Its a good sub but like it has been said it doesnt like sealed enclosures and seem to thrive in large boxes. Also for the amp if you could get the exact model number that would help. There is much more to an amp than its power rating. Features and design can have huge impact on your overall sound. Ask about things like crossover slope and power draw.

[joelnazab]

the guy said it wold=uld need one with 4 amps i think or something like that.. what do u mean they dont llike sealed enclosurs?... i asked about the capasitor cuz i think the battery is too small i dont want to be bumping music and the headlights dimming on each base.. im kinda worried aboout the wight as well how would one 15 comare with two 12s like a 15in. L7..

[Demi]

You may very well need to upgrade you electrical system. Start with the big 3 and then replace your battery with a yellowtop and if you still have problems you need a high output Alt. What I mean by "they don't like sealed enclosures" is that the type-rs do not perform well in them. And I'm not sure why you want two subs anyway. When you double up on subs you mutilply the enclosure space issue. If your looking to do some damage spend the money you would on two decent subs on one good one. The right box will make all the difference. Like ive said I have a type-x and in 2.4 cubes at 30hz this "sq" sub shakes my hair. Thats not a hyperbole. Why in the name of god would you need four amps?

[joelnazab]

lol not 4 amps for speakers ...the battery thing tube thing its was something about 4

[Abaddon]

lol not 4 amps for speakers ...the battery thing tube thing its was something about 4

If you have no clue what you're buying.. you shouldn't be buying it.

[Demi]

If you have no clue what you're buying.. you shouldn't be buying it.

Thats the best way to put it ive ever heard. Find out what kinda amp they are trying to chuck at ya. Forget that capacitor crap.

[fourthmeal]

Joel, I need to know -

Are you after the answers, or are you after knowledge? Which one? If you are after just the answers, then yes, we can plan an entire system for you. If you are after knowledge, then you need to read up on a few things. You are missing the very basics of car audio, from what I gather.

If you seek knowledge, and the ability to decide for yourself what you want to do, then you need to do some research (and spend a good deal of time on it.) Luckily for you, there are some really, REALLY good websites that can teach you quickly and accurately. Here are two that I know well:

http://www.bcae1.com/

http://www.caraudiobook.com/

With those two, you should be able to gather knowledge that will let you answer your own questions, and also be able to ask questions that will actually help you, instead of blindly following the suggestions of others.

[dtlmunkey]

Hey,

I just wanted to throw in here. I have an Alpine cd-9825 head unit in my 3 running two sets of Polk Audio 5.25 co-axial speakers in the front and rear doors. I left the factory tweets on the front pillars. In the back, I have a single Alpine 10" (E series I believe)in a .70ft3 ho-made box, hooked to an alpine monoblock amp @ about 200 or so watts to the sub. Granted, this is a cheapie system(less than $700), but it sounds pretty damn good IMO.(I'm not out to set off car alarms with it). In a hatch, you don't need to much bass to have it sound good, and 3's have a lot of rattles that pop up if you do. I'm in the process of ordering/installing sound deadening for the floor, trunk, and doors to finish it out. Also remember that you don't have to buy everything at once, you can do it in stages. It might help out with budget/making the right choice of components. The moral of my story is that more is not always better! This is all in an '04 3S Hatch. (alright)

[Demi]

Hey,

I just wanted to throw in here. I have an Alpine cd-9825 head unit in my 3 running two sets of Polk Audio 5.25 co-axial speakers in the front and rear doors. I left the factory tweets on the front pillars. In the back, I have a single Alpine 10" (E series I believe)in a .70ft3 ho-made box, hooked to an alpine monoblock amp @ about 200 or so watts to the sub. Granted, this is a cheapie system(less than $700), but it sounds pretty damn good IMO.(I'm not out to set off car alarms with it). In a hatch, you don't need to much bass to have it sound good, and 3's have a lot of rattles that pop up if you do. I'm in the process of ordering/installing sound deadening for the floor, trunk, and doors to finish it out. Also remember that you don't have to buy everything at once, you can do it in stages. It might help out with budget/making the right choice of components. The moral of my story is that more is not always better! This is all in an '04 3S Hatch. (alright)

Thats a good point, the problem with sound systems is that most improvements (steps up in quality is what i mean) cause an exponential increase in cost. Be it more electrical work, more sound deadening and a such, or amps to match better speakers and woofers. Even a small improvement can cost big. The previous post about knowledge vs. information is a valid one, and if your are looking to get into this yourself, maybe a smaller system to start with may be the way to go. I will warn you however, the audio bug bites hard, and it can suck your wallet pretty quickly. Its tons of fun though.

[Abaddon]

...and if you are looking to get into this yourself, maybe a smaller system to start with may be the way to go. I will warn you however, the audio bug bites hard, and it can suck your wallet pretty quickly. Its tons of fun though.


x10

[joelnazab]

hey guys i got what i think is a good deal but might bee too much for the mazda 3 its two fosgate p3's 15in. and the amp and a epicenter for 500

[fourthmeal]

Eh....

Bud its not about what you can snap up on a good deal. Planning a system involves design parameters, and I assure you that 15's aren't going in this car unless you are sacrificing the entire trunk just for one. Don't know about the amp since just about every amp has different specs, and the epicenter is nothing more then a bass-boost type of equalizer. It can do more, but that's really why its out there. To make windows of other cars shake at a certain frequency (which pisses me off.)

Also, I gotta tell you, after selling them for so long and learning what they're made of, I pretty much will boycott any Rockford subwoofer. The amps are OK, and I have one of their 3sixty.2 processors so I'm down with some of their products...but the subs are just...awful.

Now that you've bought stuff you don't need...what do you want to do now? I thought you had a clear goal (small 10" sub, good sub amp, good main 4ch amp, and a set of components, with solid sound dampening installed, all while keeping the factory Head unit.) Or, has something changed?

[Demi]

hey guys i was thinking of putting some subs on my car and i decided to go with a pair of 12in. L7 kickers.. or 12in. alpine type r.. i dont know wich ones and im going to keep the stock stereo by the way .. well the problem comes here alot of people are telling me to go with 10in. becouse the back of the car is going to drop and its gonna really affect the performance of my mazda i have a 2008 mazda3 2.3 automatic by the way lol

well now im am dowstepping thinking of either l7 or alpine typr r but in a 10in. .. i have no idea what e;lse i need i want to keep the stock stereo will it sound good? i can get the 10in. kicker l7's for $150

the guy said it wold=uld need one with 4 amps i think or something like that.. what do u mean they dont llike sealed enclosurs?... i asked about the capasitor cuz i think the battery is too small i dont want to be bumping music and the headlights dimming on each base.. im kinda worried aboout the wight as well how would one 15 comare with two 12s like a 15in. L7..

hey guys i got what i think is a good deal but might bee too much for the mazda 3 its two fosgate p3's 15in. and the amp and a epicenter for 500
We have discussed how box sizes are underestimated by manufactures, we have discussed good subs and good size choices. We have discussed how more than one sub is unnecessary ESPECIALLY in your application, and more subs typically = larger amps = more electrical draw = more $ and lastly = more weight. If you have no intention of taking any of this under advisement, why make the thread? Car audio is a hobby that is more filled with people pretending to know what the hell they are talking about than any ive ever seen, even people that do installs professionally often times have no real understanding of underlying mechanics involved. It takes time and research to plan a good system, and you can have it even on the relativity cheap, it take the same time a research to find a reputable audio shop to do the work for you if you cant yourself. I spent a week playing with box designs and sizes before i settled on an enclosure. It took weeks before that to decide on the sub, amp, and head unit. Dood its your money and if you want to flush it on a ghetto ass setup up, knock yourself out.

But just so you know here is an UNDERSIZED box for 2 15" L7s. Just a heads up.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265140&highlight=15%22s+build

[joelnazab]

hey guys is the capasitor supposed to stay on when the car is off?

[fourthmeal]

You do not need a capacitor.

BTW it doesn't turn on or off, as far as functionality goes. It is wired into the circuit using constant battery voltage. All a capacitor does is serve as a reservoir, pouring out power when there is a need for it. Problem is, they mostly serve as a gimmick.

Put it this way:

I just installed a system in my 08 Tribute - a pair of Precision Power DCX models, one rated at 500W x 1 and one rated at 100W x 4. Now, I've got that paired to a set of Blueprint 10" subs, and Canton separates in the front. I can get that system so loud, so punchy that it feels like I'm front stage at my favorite club...yet my lights remain rock steady and simply do not dim.

Point? I installed the system correctly, with 4 gauge wire, with a solid grounding point, and with consideration of how the power will transfer from the battery to the system, then to the grounding point (which then goes right back to the battery to complete the circuit.)

[joelnazab]

the guy put it on for free but when i turn the car off it doesnt turn off that is what my question was is it supposed to ?

[fourthmeal]

Is it one with an indicator on top of it? If so, I could see why that would not turn off. Otherwise, you'd never know.


I've never bothered to install one with an indicator on it, so I'm in the dark. Take a look at your instruction manual, see what it says. I bet it just reads voltage all the time.

[Abaddon]

They should turn off. They are triggered by the remote turn on wire, just like an amplifier is.

[joelnazab]

yeah its the kind with the indicator i didnt get the amp on the remote start that way i can shut the subs 0ff whenever i dont want them i got a switch for them

[dparm1984]

I think the whole problem here stems from a lack of understanding of the idea of a "system". If you Lego-build it and slap random stuff together, it'll sound like ass and you'll have wasted your money.

If you're smart, however, and you buy things that work well together...the results will be very good.

The same thing applies to engine, suspension, braking, etc. upgrades.

[fourthmeal]

Q.F.T.


I think the whole problem here stems from a lack of understanding of the idea of a "system". If you Lego-build it and slap random stuff together, it'll sound like ass and you'll have wasted your money.

If you're smart, however, and you buy things that work well together...the results will be very good.

The same thing applies to engine, suspension, braking, etc. upgrades.

[Demi]

You do not need a capacitor.

x 9081283758132013985737384732834 (carry the one)


I think the whole problem here stems from a lack of understanding of the idea of a "system". If you Lego-build it and slap random stuff together, it'll sound like ass and you'll have wasted your money.

If you're smart, however, and you buy things that work well together...the results will be very good.

The same thing applies to engine, suspension, braking, etc. upgrades.
See above

[1sty]

Hmmmm. My thoughts.

L7's and L5s suck. no other way to say it. They break, they sound like ass. They look retarded. Tripple looser :)
Type R's are nice but alpine has never impressed me.
REs build quality is lacking, perfomrance is OK.
JL I like, Polk is a nice peice too.

If you are concerned about weight then you want a sub then build the box from birtchplywood not MDF or fiberglass. Birtch ply is very light compared to the others. Also get a sub meant for a small sealed box as it will be far lighter. For this the JL W1 is hard to beat as they are light and can go in a very small box. Fourths suggestions are certainly solid too.


Capacitors are commonly useless. They are in truth always on as they connect to only power and ground. The top of the damn thing may have an LED read out or something that when linked to the vehicles constant power wire instead of the accessory wire or stereo remote wire; the stupid top will stay on.