What should I get and Charging Problems?

[blueprotegelx]

I have a '03 Mazda Protege LX. It all started a couple months ago with my battery dieing consistently. I figured since it was old it was time for a new one, so I went and purchased a Duralast from AutoZone. After a few days of sitting my car would not hold a charge and I would have to get a jump. Occassionally that would not work therefor, I would have to charge it overnight. I got so aggravated with my alarm system, b/c it thought it was getting tampered into and I did not have the factory code to turn the system out (Clifford) that I took the alarm system out. I thought everything was fine since I drove to work everday over Christmas break, until I left my car sit for a couple days and when I went to get in it, it would not start so I took the battery over to AutoZone and had them charge it. I asked the guy there if he had any thoughts as to why this would be happening and his conclusion was "well something must be draining it!" haha, clever guy I thought. But I am completely stomped! I have not tested the alternator yet, b/c I paid my car off last week and took it back home to let it sit and take the insurance off so I can save money. Which comes to the second question? haha. I will eventually turbo my car but for now I am increasing my knowledge in the forced induction field. Anybody have any suggestions on what to purchase other than turbo parts for now?

[blueprotegelx]

bump help please!

[P-Funk!]

To find a drain on the battery:

Disconnect the battery ground and hook up a multi meter set for milliamps (DC Current) between the post and the cable you disconnected.

If it reads more than ~30mA - something (more than your clock and radio normal drain) is shorted somewhere. Pull fuses one by one until the meter suddenly drops to ~30mA. Pull the alarm fuse first- that may be the culprit!

Report back what fuse dropped the drain to acceptable levels and we will troubleshoot from there.

Also, measure the voltage (since you got it out already) of the battery (across the two terminal posts) before and after starting the car. Before starting it should read ~12VDC. After start it should jump to almost 15VDC. If not - it is either the alternator or the ECU (which is the regulator).

[CulRidr]

^Great info!

[blueprotegelx]

i haven't been able to get a reading due to my car being back home. but i just remembered i have my volt gauge power source connected to the positive terminal. i'm thinking after a couple days of sitting that gauge runs the battery down slowly enough to not turn over. i'm heading home today, and tomo morning i'm gonna fix the gauge and get a reading.

with the volt reader i should just check the voltage on the battery w/ car on and off and then check the alternator correct? *connect positive wire to post on alternator and then ground it correct? thanks guys i appreciate the information!

[Rusty]

with the volt reader i should just check the voltage on the battery w/ car on and off and then check the alternator correct? *connect positive wire to post on alternator and then ground it correct? thanks guys i appreciate the information!

Just measure at the battery. The voltage would be the same at the alternator anyway.

To find your current drain like P-Funk is telling you: set your meter to Amps. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then hook the red meter lead to the battery and the black lead to the cable. If current is continuously flowing, that's how you measure it, and find out which circuit it's bleeding through.
Also, when measuring current, to avoid frying your meter, Always set your meter to the highest setting before making your first measurement.

Edit: I just realized this post was a month old. Did you get it fixed?


To find a drain on the battery:

Disconnect the battery ground and hook up a multi meter set for milliamps (DC Current) between the post and the cable you disconnected.

If it reads more than ~30mA - something (more than your clock and radio normal drain) is shorted somewhere. Pull fuses one by one until the meter suddenly drops to ~30mA. Pull the alarm fuse first- that may be the culprit!

Report back what fuse dropped the drain to acceptable levels and we will troubleshoot from there.

Also, measure the voltage (since you got it out already) of the battery (across the two terminal posts) before and after starting the car. Before starting it should read ~12VDC. After start it should jump to almost 15VDC. If not - it is either the alternator or the ECU (which is the regulator).