Stiffen your Mazda 3, Mazdaspeed 3 shifter for FREE

[enganear]

While removing my shifter to bend the lever forward and left to better suit my reach, I noticed it would be very easy to stiffen the shifter base mounting points by simply shortening the isolator sleeves. Here is what I did.

Expose the shifter assembly by removing the shift knob and snapping the panels upward starting at the front of the rear console compartment - 3 minutes, tops.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2130/2129217200_e3ff676fa3.jpg

Remove the two rear screws with a 10mm socket and extension. You will have to flex the left side of the console out a little, but easily done.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/2128439219_71679dd4e2.jpg

Remove the isolator sleeves. You will have to work them back and forth a little.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2100/2128439315_9b1457f97c.jpg

Mark 1/8" from the bottom of the isolator sleeve and remove this material. I used a grinder, but a hacksaw and vise would work if you do not squeeze the isolator sleeve excessively. This picture is after shortening the sleeve.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2018/2129217230_0acd8d7d8e.jpg

Reassemble. The isolators will now be compressed practically solid.

Note: You can do all four mounts in this manner if you wish, but you will get 90% of the effect by doing the two rear mounts which are very simple to reach.

-enganear

[Hapa88]

I think the picture links you were trying to do were these:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2130/2129217200_e3ff676fa3.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/2128439219_71679dd4e2.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2100/2128439315_9b1457f97c.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2018/2129217230_0acd8d7d8e.jpg

[Hapa88]

Ok, I fixed it from your post:
My first "How To" and I can't get the pictures to show up. What am I doing wrong?

While removing my shifter to bend the lever forward and left to better suit my reach, I noticed it would be very easy to stiffen the shifter base mounting points by simply shortening the isolator sleeves. Here is what I did.

Expose the shifter assembly by removing the shift knob and snapping the panels upward starting at the front of the rear console compartment - 3 minutes, tops.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2130/2129217200_e3ff676fa3.jpg

Remove the two rear screws with a 10mm socket and extension. You will have to flex the left side of the console out a little, but easily done.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/2128439219_71679dd4e2.jpg

Remove the isolator sleeves. You will have to work them back and forth a little.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2100/2128439315_9b1457f97c.jpg

Mark 1/8" from the bottom of the isolator sleeve and remove this material. I used a grinder, but a hacksaw and vise would work if you do not squeeze the isolator sleeve excessively.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2018/2129217230_0acd8d7d8e.jpg

Reassemble. The isolators will now be compressed practically solid.

Note: You can do all four mounts in this manner if you wish, but you will get 90% of the effect by doing the two rear mounts which are very simple to reach.

-enganear

[Hirudin]

Interesting...

Is the isolator in your bottom shot from before or after grinding?

[enganear]

Interesting...

Is the isolator in your bottom shot from before or after grinding?

It is after shortening. I was not clever enough to take a before picture. I have edited the original post to clarify this and fix the pictures.

Thanks for the assistance with the pictures. My mistake was inserting the Flickr URL for the picture instead of the actual picture location. It won't happen again!
-enganear

[niz55]

Are you a mazda engineer?

[enganear]

Are you a mazda engineer?

No, I design assembly lines for automotive airbags. My company does make some Mazda airbags, but not for the 3.

My sig name comes from a very old joke about a graduating engineer who proudly proclaimed "Four years ago I couldn't even spell enganear and now I ARE one!" :D
-enganear

[ericrapp]

intriguing, and the results please

[enganear]

intriguing, and the results please

Results? By shortening the isolator sleeves, you effectively compress the rubber isolator to a solid mass, giving the same effect as installing aftermarket bushings without spending any money. Is this what you were looking for?
-enganear

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

My sig name comes from a very old joke about a graduating engineer who proudly proclaimed "Four years ago I couldn't even spell enganear and now I ARE one!" :D
-enganear

I believe it is actually from a comedy routine (maybe Second City) poking fun at speed reading courses. As I remember it, the quote was very similar, just a little longer.
"Before I took the Evelyn Woodhead sped redin course, I couldn't even spell enganear. Now I ARE one!"

Edit: after looking at the original quote, the joke could easily have come first. Wouldn't be the first time a comedy writer stole old material for a routine.

[ericrapp]

Results? By shortening the isolator sleeves, you effectively compress the rubber isolator to a solid mass, giving the same effect as installing aftermarket bushings without spending any money. Is this what you were looking for?
-enganear

Very nearly exactly. thank you, apparently all you &*%$^ engineers aren't %^&^*# idiots.(insert smile icon here)

[billyrohm]

Results? By shortening the isolator sleeves, you effectively compress the rubber isolator to a solid mass, giving the same effect as installing aftermarket bushings without spending any money. Is this what you were looking for?
-enganear

Do you think that you could also acomplish this with some clever placement of washers?

[Rotus8]

Do you think that you could also acomplish this with some clever placement of washers?
If you can find some washer with holes big enough to go over the flange, and small enough OD to fit inside the shifter pocket, it would certainly stiffen up the rubber some.

[enganear]

Do you think that you could also acomplish this with some clever placement of washers?

Yes, you could use washers on the bottom that were large enough to clear the sleeve diameter. Keeping them lined up and in place simultaneously in 4 places while installing sounds like a real pita.

If you modify the sleeves as suggested at the beginning of this thread, you do not even have to unhook the cables to install.
-enganear

[hectik1]

I just did this mod (the back 2, and the 1 front one not covered by a cable). Feels really good despite only have 3 bolts holding it in after snapping one of the bolts with my kung fu grip. I probably should drill the bolt out.

But with 2 out of the 4, and one bolt missing it feels so much more solid. My problem gear was 3rd and went into it twice so far at the top of 2nd with no more missing.

This is another free mod worth doing.(yes)

[wldchld]

thank u for the free mod.

[5][Spyder]

This is DEFINITELY worth doing. IMO this is better than the after market bushings, because it still gives you the rock solid mounting, but also the piece of mind of having rubber isolators(which the factory felt were necessary, they just took it to the extreme of sloppiness). I just did this, and I recommend cutting off 1/4inch instead, more the better really. If you take the console off and move the shifter you can see the shifter base flexing and the rubber being manipulated.....there lies the problem. After you cut down the bushings, and but it all back together, you can watch it while shifting hard, and there is absolutely no movement.....

Also, I recommend using a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and 6inch extension + 10mm socket to avoid what the other guy above did(breaking off the bolt). Also the 1/4 drive ratchet + ext takes up less room and will allow you to reach ALL the bolts VERY easily.

The TMW bushing are obsolete IMO. Thank you so much for the write up enganear.

[Savate]

wasn't ready for the extra vibration but I'll get used to it.
Shifting is much more solid, third isn't a problem.... so far.

Thanks!

[Tooch]

doing this tommorow lol

[MikeHTally]

Does this also apply to a 2008 MS3? I just poked around on my console (very gingerly, I'll admit) and I could not get the panels to even look like they wanted to come up.

[hectik1]

Does this also apply to a 2008 MS3? I just poked around on my console (very gingerly, I'll admit) and I could not get the panels to even look like they wanted to come up.Did it on my 08.

[Tooch]

I took like 3/16 off and shifting is sooo much smoother. I can't believe the factory screwed up something so simple. I used a 3/8 dowel to impale the shifter bushing and a piece of wood to hold it in place with a belt sander. Cuts it down to size in like 15 seconds and give a consistently flat end. THIS IS A SWEETLY CHEAP MOD. oh and grab the coin bin next to the shifter and squeeze it when you pull up. and take out your ash tray. the whole thing will pull up

[enganear]

Does this also apply to a 2008 MS3? I just poked around on my console (very gingerly, I'll admit) and I could not get the panels to even look like they wanted to come up.

The pics at the beginning were all made using an 08 MS3.
-enganear

[enganear]

I took like 3/16 off and shifting is sooo much smoother. I can't believe the factory screwed up something so simple. I used a 3/8 dowel to impale the shifter bushing and a piece of wood to hold it in place with a belt sander. Cuts it down to size in like 15 seconds and give a consistently flat end. THIS IS A SWEETLY CHEAP MOD. oh and grab the coin bin next to the shifter and squeeze it when you pull up. and take out your ash tray. the whole thing will pull up

Nice technique! Square is nice, but the process is very tolerant of imperfection because the rubber is so compliant.
-enganear

[hilmar2k]

Greatest......mod......ever!!!

Okay, maybe just a bit of hyperbole. Excellent mod nonetheless. It took me longer to grind down the bushings than the total time it took to take it all apart and put it back together again. Total project took maybe 15 minutes...tops. Huge improvement in shifting.

Enganear's my hero!! Seriously, I'm growing horns and everything.

[tandman]

Easy mod to do....took about ten minutes tops.....
Now where is the mod article for shortening the throw for the shifter???

[hilmar2k]

Easy mod to do....took about ten minutes tops.....
Now where is the mod article for shortening the throw for the shifter???

Search is your friend. ;)

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123661188

[ericm]

I did this mod last night.

It took me more like an hour, but I was taking my time. I had some difficulty getting the left front bolt back in. I wound up taking out the ash tray/lighter panel to get some more room so I could use a 1/4" driver.

Shifting feel is improved. It is much less vague and rubbery. I think I need the motor mount inserts now.

[MikeHTally]

I did the most accessible three yesterday. I can feel a difference, but I'm not sure it's huge. I did probably take off less than that 1/8" and I didn't do the upper front (LF). Tomorrow morning I may take a bit more off the three and some off that one. BTW, a "wobble" extention makes the LF one fairly easy to access without taking the shifter cable loose.

[hilmar2k]

I did the most accessible three yesterday. I can feel a difference, but I'm not sure it's huge. I did probably take off less than that 1/8" and I didn't do the upper front (LF). Tomorrow morning I may take a bit more off the three and some off that one. BTW, a "wobble" extention makes the LF one fairly easy to access without taking the shifter cable loose.

I only did those three as well, but I took off more like 1/4". I noticed a huge difference.

[navyagspeed3]

enganear,
This may be a noob question, but do you think there would be any long term extra wear and tear on the shifter assembly after getting rid of some of the factory cushion? If so, wouldn't that void the warranty if they found out (if they could tell)?

[enganear]

enganear,
This may be a noob question, but do you think there would be any long term extra wear and tear on the shifter assembly after getting rid of some of the factory cushion? If so, wouldn't that void the warranty if they found out (if they could tell)?

IMHO, no. This mod should not impact any components and should not be detectable by the dealer unless they disassemble the bushings which is doubtful.
-enganear

[MikeHTally]

I went back into mine Tuesday evening. I took all the bushings out and ground 'em down that 1/8". I had to actually take the console out to get the LF sleeve back in. VERY worthwhile mod! Shifts are much better now.

[thibaug]

I did the mod last weekend and I'm pretty happy as well. Much less of a "rubbery" feeling. :-)

Question: Has anyone else noticed that all of the bushings are not the same size? Or is it just mine???

[hilmar2k]

Question: Has anyone else noticed that all of the bushings are not the same size? Or is it just mine???

Yup, mine varied some, in both size and shape.

[freebird_78]

Well, just did this mod, ground about 0.20" off each of the four bushings. Let me begin by saying thanks to the OP for this idea.

First thing I realized after doing this was "wow, people actually pay ~$40 for those bushings?" I totally misunderstood the point of the bushings until this mod. I had thought they were somehow replacing something in the shifter cup.

Second thing I realized is that while this is a great idea to save yourself the ~$40 for the bushings, it is by no means the night/day difference that people made the TWM bushings out to be. I'm 100% certain that this mod accomplishes 99%-100% the same thing as the TWM bushings. If someone else had done either mod without me knowing it, I don't think I'd be able to tell the difference, other than it is a slight bit "noisier" now when shifting. I'm sure my MM had a lot to do with that, though. I'd be PISSED if I spent $40 for the bushings, which I almost did.

Third, I think the counterweight remove idea had much more of an effect (for better or worse) on shifter than this does. I tried the counterweight removal, but preferred it back on. I think people might want to consider trying this free mod as well, as it is completely reversable, and might compliment this mod well.

Again, I am in no way trying to shit on your idea. It is great idea and great way to save people money. Greatly appreciated.

[phillyb]

BUMP - i did this mod about a month ago with my stock shifter still in the car. and it made a difference in the mushiness.

then i put in my twm sts and was pretty happy.
last night, i put in twm's bushings and took out the ones that i had grinded and the rubber part and i must say that it made even more of a difference.

the twm bushings add much more of a mechanical feel to the shifter.
in all honesty, the $40 for the bushings is worth it to avoid grinding the stock inserts down. you will still have a rubber part, which i think is the main problem. yes, with the shorter inserts will supress the rubber as much as possible, but stripping the bolts doing this is pretty easy, and still leaves you with a little bit of mushiness...

/.02

anyone who wants the grinded inserts, let me know

[coteyma]

Did this last night, took about 20 mins (including dicking around), and couldn't be happier with the results. Thanks for the idea!

[navyagspeed3]

So I took out all four of the bushings, the front left one was really tough to get out. When I looked at them they are really cheaply made and where three different sizes. I was not impressed at all with their quality. (huh) After grinding them down, I was putting the aluminum bolts back when the first one (back left) snapped in two. Basically I sheered the bolt flush with the mounting holes.(hand) All I was doing was hand tightening with a 6' socket wrench. I went to Lowe's and found four steel, 10mm bolts that are the same size, length, threads, etc., for less than a dollar. Now all I have to do is get that broken bolt tapped out. Not a fun night for me (not to mention the wife wasn't thrilled that I could have f'ed up my car).

So my recommendation is to get four steel replacement bolts before you grind down the bushings.

[phillyb]

that's funny, i stripped two of my bolts and replaced them at home depot. i didn't retap my holes though...

[Babyface13]

I did mine today. It seems alot better so far!

[xxxmonoxidechil]

if i didnt allrealy have the fusionsport solid bushings installed, id be all over this. (note, the fusion sport bushings are ALOTA cheaper then the TWM one's, and are the same thing. i only spent $25 shipped)

but im gonna do the shifter mod for sure! somehow, i had totally missed that thread and had no idea!

[FMOS Racing]

In my opinion, replacing the factory hardware with some decent 8.8 or 10.9 fasteners from your local hardware store should be considered a mandatory part of this mod.

It's a matter of shear luck if you were able to get the fasteners in and the rubber bushings completely compressed without stripping or shearing the junk factory hardware.

So, spend the $1.50 it costs and make a run to Lowes/Home Depot/TSC/OSH and get some 6mmx1.0 fasteners of the correct length, throw some washers on them, and use that.

Between this mod and a Delrin dogbone (I ordered poly, got Delrin and just installed it anyway), I missed one 2-3 powershift in 9 tries. The one I missed is because my hand slipped off the shifter.

[navyagspeed3]

So after a week of trying everthing to get the stripped bolt out I still have had no luck. I took it to the dealership and they were going to charge me $189. So i said heck no. Any body have any ideas that might help me get this dang bolt out?

[ericrapp]

PB blaster and soak the remaining bolt bit. If there is nothing left to grab on bolt shaft with you will need to do a bit more work !89 is absurd. if you can grab a bit of bolt head remains, try to rotate. Gently tighten! then gently loosen. again and again. It will barely move as a thread has broken. Spray with penetrating oil again. repeat with patience. till someone is about to get hurt. Then try this. use a prick or center punch to mark the center of the bolt and use a very small drill bit to create room for an easy out This can be done by you or another mechanic. Unless it gets ugly, which it can, should be no more than half an hour. Feel free to pm for more details or questions

[FMOS Racing]

I had enough of a stub left that I was able to get a stud extractor (Sears/Craftsman) on it and get it out. $20 in tools that you can keep.

I was nervous, though, because there wasn't much left to work with, but I managed to get enough grip on it to get it out.

[dkswim]

going to do this today

[Sims]

Did this today with washers. Need to do the front two bushings next. Feels pretty good so far

[Chaz243]

I also did this mod this morning... Two thick flat washers slipped over each insert and tightened them back until the inserts seated... This method will help alleviate the broken bolt syndrome... I think that the guys breaking bolts are not getting a good "tight" feel because they are squeezing the rubber and not seating the insert... Just MHO...

Oh yea... The shifter feels great... Best 15 minute mod to date... Thanks man!!!!

[NiteRunner]

+1 for adding washers,
.99c for a bag of four, (1/8").
I just did this in about 5 min.

Just make sure you put them in first on top of the rubber before the sleeve, as another poster said.

[Ante]

Here is another way to do a Free Stiffen... bit more time consuming :P and you need machinery available

- Lathe with Parting tool
- Centering Drill
- 6mm Drill Bit
- Vernier Caliper
- Some 27mm ish rod available Plastic Steel Alloy what ever!

Make your Own shifter bushes like i did for $00.00

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/th_DSC00816.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/?action=view&current=DSC00816.jpg) http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/th_DSC00817.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/?action=view&current=DSC00817.jpg) http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/th_DSC00827.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/?action=view&current=DSC00827.jpg) http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/th_DSC00826.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/?action=view&current=DSC00826.jpg)

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/th_DSC00830.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/?action=view&current=DSC00830.jpg) http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/th_DSC00833.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/?action=view&current=DSC00833.jpg) http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/th_DSC00835.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/?action=view&current=DSC00835.jpg) http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/th_DSC00839.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/abarbarich/MAZDAMPS/SHIFTERBUSHES/?action=view&current=DSC00839.jpg)

I bought Stainless 316

- 4 (M6 x 30mm) bolts
- 4 (M6 small) Washers
- 4 (M6 large) washers

Much better had some Plastic rod lying around at the workshop...

you might be able to get offcuts for cheap or free from someone.. :)

[Wurf]

I was going to mention why don't you whip out a few dozen sets of these and sell them in the marketplace, but you're way down in the land of the Kiwi's!

[meicalnissyen]

While removing my shifter to bend the lever forward and left to better suit my reach, I noticed it would be very easy to stiffen the shifter base mounting points by simply shortening the isolator sleeves. Here is what I did.

Expose the shifter assembly by removing the shift knob and snapping the panels upward starting at the front of the rear console compartment - 3 minutes, tops.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2130/2129217200_e3ff676fa3.jpg

Remove the two rear screws with a 10mm socket and extension. You will have to flex the left side of the console out a little, but easily done.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/2128439219_71679dd4e2.jpg

Remove the isolator sleeves. You will have to work them back and forth a little.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2100/2128439315_9b1457f97c.jpg

Mark 1/8" from the bottom of the isolator sleeve and remove this material. I used a grinder, but a hacksaw and vise would work if you do not squeeze the isolator sleeve excessively. This picture is after shortening the sleeve.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2018/2129217230_0acd8d7d8e.jpg

Reassemble. The isolators will now be compressed practically solid.

Note: You can do all four mounts in this manner if you wish, but you will get 90% of the effect by doing the two rear mounts which are very simple to reach.

-enganear

Good mod
If you want to spend a few cents, a trip to the hardware store will yeild a stack of washers which can be used to mimic the "bushing" mod quite well.

as the OP states 2 or 3 outta 4 is way gutentite

[SingleFin1969]

Just did this, both rear and front right bushings (too lazy to mess with the front left). Added two washers to each bolt to help prevent bolt breakage. Really nice and easy to do. Used 1/4 drive tools, which really helped. Shifting is much more positive now.

[pt109]

I'm a relatively new Mazda 3 owner, and I just registered so I could thank
the OP for this efficient, and easy do do mod. (hi)

[FreddyMS3]

MS3 MGM 09 owner here. Just thought I'd post a thank to the OP for the great idea. Shifts are much better now. Second to third gear was the worst. I used the method of leaving the inserts the same height but adding washers to slip the inserts into and then mounting them with high grade stainless steel M6 M6 1.0mm 30mm bolts rather than using the cheap OEM bolts.

[5-4-fighting]

Installed my E4 Performance Short Shifter along with the supplied bushings and washers to 3 of the 4 bolts. Stiffened things up real nice. Between the two mods the shifting is very crisp. I also have the TRZ Tranny and Motor Mounts installed. That coupled with the Cobb SRI and TIP, the car is scary fast. I can light up the tires in second gear all the way to red line.

Great job Enganear on the idea.