ECU relearn or what??

[dragtillidie]

Ok..well I searched and found a lot of helpful info but not exactly what I need. People have had similar problems but let me tell you about mine. Cars runs great. Idles just fine (+-750). If I am accelerating (a little or a lot) and depress the clutch, the RPMs drop waaaay down but comes back up. Once in a while the car stalls when this happens but starts itself right back up. I just changed my #2 o2 sensor and put a SLS J/midpipe and SRI on. No CEL. From what i've read on here ive checked the following.

1. All IC piping connections=tight
2. Vacuum reads +-20in=good

One of my boys said there is a strong possibility the ECU is relearning cause i had the battery out. I dunno with these cars. Bad EGR should mess up the idle but the idle is fine like i said. Also how do u check the BPV cause thats another thing i read in other threads. I have had the car for two weeks and LOVE it. Just need to work out the infamous MSP quirks!! I prolly woulda had a heart attack by now if it wasn't for u guys and ur help. Im ASE certified but this is my first turbo and my first Mazda. I really appreciate ur help and if u think it would be easier to explain on the phone PM me and ill shoot u my number or something.

PS. Also when I mash it the boost seems to go to 9 lb for a split, split second.

[MSP_4_CODY]

yeah there is a possibility that it is relearning, it does that when un hook the batt. and when you put something new on the car

[peajay]

the boost spike is pretty normal, but watch it cause you may have one that is on the higher end (mine peaks at 7 drops to 5...stock). any aftermarket boost controller that is or has at one time been on the car could mess with it a bit too. As for the idle...could be a million things, it could be relearning but that should go away rather quickly (only a few drive cycles).
any ems? what you are describing happened to me when i had my unichip in, bad timing map. There is a slim chance it's the egr or iac but i would imagine your idle would be funky too if it was your iac.

[dragtillidie]

well since I reset the ECU ive only driven a couple cycles. Drove home from work yesterday and then to the store. Thats about it. No EMS. Engine mods are SRI, SLS J/Midpipe, Greddy catback, and my HiBoost FMIC will be installed whenever it gets here. (Two weeks since I ordered it). I also just put on Krankvents and a catch can last night. Gonna change my plugs for sh*ts and giggles cause I bought the car 2 weeks ago and dunno if they were done for sure. Seller said they were done a little after 40k and I got 45k now.

[ForceFed]

I would lean highly on the EGR.
Take it off and give it a cleaning.
I do beleive there is a how to on the forum.
My MSP used to do the same crap stock...So I dont know.

[dragtillidie]

ill clean it my next day off...thanks. Heres a little fun fact though. (Mind u I bought the car 2 weeks ago) So after my turkey nap i was sittin around back at my house bored. I bought a new set of NGK Iridiums but was waitin till my catch can got here before installing them. Anyway, I decided to pull a plug and just check it out cause I had nothing better to do. Now Ive been building Hondas and Nissans for years so you can imagine my face and the words that came outta my mouth when I pulled out an Autolite plug. LOL!!!! Im ASE certified and have been workin in shops for years and Autolite is one of the cheapest plugs out there. These CANT be helping. So i said to hell with waiting for my catch can and put in the NGKs. Gotta wait till tomorrow for the drive to work to see whats up due to the fact that I had a few "beverages" with the 126lbs of food i ate! (drinks)

[BOOSTR]

Autolites work fine in Ford/Lincolns/Mercury.
Most likely your rpm dips are related to the age and condition of the plugs versus the brand. In addition to the plugs change the pcv and run some seafoam thru its vacuum source and put the rest in the tank when you go to fill up.

[B1GHAM]

more than likely its your ecu reset, but that should start to fade after the first few drive cycles... Ive found that letting the car idle for a few minutes after reset and driving the car hard for a bit helps the ECU learn a little quicker. Also, depress the clutch while accelerating under boost and allow the RPM to fall and catch itself a few times, it should slowly stop doing it.

checking the BPV is kind of hard. Mine went bad and I had slightly below normal idles and when I would release under boost, my rpms would dip like yours do. You couldnt really "hear" the issue though... the only thing I noticed is that the BPV sounded "sloppy" and slow, and you could sometimes hear air moving even 10-20 seconds later. Mine was due to the vacuum line nipple being bad.

They are really cheap to find on the website though under the FS thread... so you should find one with no problem...

[peajay]

Autolites work fine in Ford/Lincolns/Mercury.

I'm a Linc. Merc. tech and i have to tell you they dont work fine. far from it. Autolites FTL!!!
Sorry
/rant

[dragtillidie]

I'm a Linc. Merc. tech and i have to tell you they dont work fine. far from it. Autolites FTL!!!
Sorry
/rant

gotta agree with you...Ive been a tech for years. Autolites are good in maybe the 1.0 3cyl Geo.(And thats being nice) But not in a boosted car. I noticed a difference on my drive to work today for sure.