New owner, few important questions.

[portaman03]

My girl just bought a 97 Protege LX for her first car. It's got 60k on the odo, Black exterior and tan/coffee interior. She scooped it for $4k out the door.

I changed the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fresh synthetic oil, oil filter, injector cleaning additive, and put a K&N cone air filter.

Any other maintenance I can do at this point for 60k miles?

Are there any recalls or TSB's for this car?

Which liter engine is the LX? It seems very sluggish compares to my 1.7 civic, but I think the problem lies within the automatic tranny... Accelerating from a stop, it seems to shift into second gear prematurely (before 3500 rpm) unless I'm giving it significant gas. I bought some tranny "restore" additive that will hopefully help it out a little.

Also, can somebody please direct me to a DIY stereo install? I need this the most!

THANKS!!!

ps- I should have some pics posted soon. We plan on first doing the complete stereo system, 17" wheels, tints, and maybe dabble in some suspension goodies.

[mannydingo]

The engine is a 1.5 liter. There are TSB's. Go to an auto parts store website called AutoZone and register yourself and add cars to your account. After that, you can click on the TSB section to see them all. There are other places on the net to get TSB's but that's what I use.

I don't know what the car market is like over there but $4K is no bargain. It's good for a car cosmetically perfect inside & out and running flawlessly. I guess from a dealer that's ok but I only buy from private parties. I guess it's the mileage that would fetch that kind of price but I can only doubt that's the correct mileage. It's possible, though, but unlikely in an 11 year old car(if bought in late 96).

Instead of adding an additive, in case the car is actually a high mileage car, you should have changed tranny fluid and new tranny filter. I would only add an additive to a transmission that's on its way out and I'm trying to get more mileage out of what's left in its life.

[sanblaster]

Congrats on the purchase. I have an auto LX as well.

[portaman03]

I don't know what the car market is like over there but $4K is no bargain. It's good for a car cosmetically perfect inside & out and running flawlessly. I guess from a dealer that's ok but I only buy from private parties. I guess it's the mileage that would fetch that kind of price but I can only doubt that's the correct mileage. It's possible, though, but unlikely in an 11 year old car(if bought in late 96).

We got the car out the door for $4k, meaning tax, title and registration included. It was a straight deal considering the mileage, which is Carfax verified to be correct with clear title no accidents etc. The car was driven very little.

I'm not sure about the rest of the members on this site, but I have a few concerns about this car.

Mainly the rough idle, poor performance (and acceleration), and not to mention SHITTY gas mileage for a 4 cylinder.

I am reading around the forums and am seeing that the causes may be due to the MAF sensor, IAT sensor, motor mounts among other things.

Can somebody give me more information or links pertaining to these issues? Particularly other forums or threads of this nature.

I don't wanna be spending a shitload of money on this car just to get it running normal. Thank you very much.

Also, when we run the AC there is a sort of wierd recirculating noise, like watery sloshing coming from it. Any ideas?

[mannydingo]

The sloshing sound could actually be a bad pulley on the A/C compressor. I'm having that issue right now. As it gets worse it won't sound like water sloshing anymore. It will sound metallic. If it is the problem, you will eventually smell burnt rubber as the pulley tries not to turn but the belt keeps running over it. Now keep in mind that the belt that turns the A/C also turns the water pump. Reiterate the other problems your car is going through, please.

[sanblaster]

Mainly the rough idle, poor performance (and acceleration), and not to mention SHITTY gas mileage for a 4 cylinder.


Rough idle is typical for the engine, I have had it on mine for a while now, even worse now, poor performance & acceleration, well you do have a 1.5L 92 hp automatic vehicle, I have the same, nothing really available to add more hp unless you do the bp swap that the 1.8L protege has, and the shitty gas mileage, again a decline every year for me, I think I am less then 20 if that and I don't even have 100k yet. Other then that they are really reliable cars. I only had to take the car in once for a bad alarm. Everything else (oil changes, new tires, fuel system flush, etc, has been done when needed.

Like mannydingo mentioned, be more specific with the problems. Manny is very knowledgeable when it comes to the vehicle. He can definitely help you out.

Santos

[mannydingo]

Like mannydingo mentioned, be more specific with the problems. Manny is very knowledgeable when it comes to the vehicle. He can definitely help you out.

Santos

Well, kind of. I know a bit about the vehicle if the problem is associated with problems I've had myself. Sometinmes a bit more from other cars I've owned. Just don't get into mods & crap. I don't do anything extra to vehicles. Change steelies to nice wheels would probably be the only thing.

[portaman03]

Okay, allow me to restate my issues. The sloshing noise is definitely scaring me if it will eventually lead to water pump failure. Ive noticed little black particles on the dashboard as well (only on the dash) that may have come from the vents.. Arg.

The idle is rough. It idles at about 750, but you can see the needle vibrating and floating up and down very acutely. I've been looking around and see that this may be caused by a cracked intake tube (which will throw off the ecu?) or perhaps an issue with the EGR valve.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788

I was also thinking that this problem could be the TPS sensor, IAC valve, or something related to the PCV valve.

Too many parts suspected! Arg...

So in summary it has a crappy rough idle vibrates the car, get crappy gas mileage for a 4 cylinder (20ish mpg compared to 30+mpg in my civic), and shifts wierd. Oh and lets not forget about the good ole sloshing noise.

I also noticed today that only 1 of the 2 fans are running, regardless of whether or not the heat or AC are on or off. One simply does not work. I checked the fuses and both fan fuses are intact.

Also, does the car have ABS? I locked the tires up to check and went skidding, checked the ABS fuse and it was blown... then my mechanic friend told me he didn't see any sensors (neither did I).

The car also shifts too early (into 2nd under 3k rpm) or too late. For example, getting on the highway, when the tranny is in 3rd gear and I have the gas pedal depressed, I will let up on the gas pedal and it still takes a good 3-5 seconds to shift into 4th gear. I'm thinking this could be the TPS sensor?

There are no check engine light or anything. If I bring it to Autozone, is it possible for them to use a code scanner thingy and find the exact problem (even though there is no check engine light?)???

Im starting to think we should sell the protege for a car with a little less BAGGAGE LoL..

HELP!!

[portaman03]

I've also read that some people found oil and sludge in their EGR valve and resonance chamber (neat the intake manifold?).

Any body have links to ANY of my listed culprits?

Seems like all the valves and sensors on this 1.5L powerplant are either faulty or cheaply made..

[mannydingo]

Okay, allow me to restate my issues. The sloshing noise is definitely scaring me if it will eventually lead to water pump failure. Ive noticed little black particles on the dashboard as well (only on the dash) that may have come from the vents.. Arg.

Black particles on your dash don't signify water pump failure.


The idle is rough. It idles at about 750, but you can see the needle vibrating and floating up and down very acutely. I've been looking around and see that this may be caused by a cracked intake tube (which will throw off the ecu?) or perhaps an issue with the EGR valve.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788 (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788)


Removal of the intake tube is one of the easiest things in life. Take off the air cleaner(where air filter is)and also where it connects to the TB. Don't twist it as you're taking it off except at the very ends to break the grip. That EGR thread is HUGE! It's up to you if you want to go through the work but I tend to think it's going to take hours and not 30 minutes as some of those guys said. I've noticed a lot of guys that say they did it in 25 minutes, etc, are using bravado in not counting wait time, i.e, going to get parts, sitting down to eat a snack from the frustration, etc. If you're not into working on your car, it will take hours--guaranteed.


I was also thinking that this problem could be the TPS sensor, IAC valve, or something related to the PCV valve.

IAC replacement or cleaning has corrected the problem for a few people but has done nothing for most. I cleaned mine on a previous Protege but without taking it apart and idle did not change. I just took out the TB with the BAC and IAC all still attached and sent TB cleaner through every opening I could until it drained out completely clean. I made no difference. That EGR clean up seems to be the only thing that works for the majority of those who try.



Too many parts suspected! Arg...Frustrating, isn't it?


So in summary it has a crappy rough idle vibrates the car, get crappy gas mileage for a 4 cylinder (20ish mpg compared to 30+mpg in my civic), and shifts wierd. Oh and lets not forget about the good ole sloshing noise.

I have no idea about the shifting: no comment. It's going to be difficult but try to isolate if the sound is coming from the A/C compressor or the water pump. Drive the car up on ramps(or jack it up), remove the righ wheel and inside plastic and check for any leaks coming from the water pump even if it's just tear drops. That would indicate pump failure. If none, move your ear from one unit to the other to see which might be making noise. I said it would be difficult because they are so close together.




I also noticed today that only 1 of the 2 fans are running, regardless of whether or not the heat or AC are on or off. One simply does not work. I checked the fuses and both fan fuses are intact.

There's more to check there. First, unplug the fan from the electrical connector. Get wires from the positive and negative of the battery and touch them to the + & - terminals of the fan. If it doesn't run, the fan, itself, is the problem. The motor is fried and you need a new motor. Usually replacing the whole fan with a used one is the better bet. Also, sometimes the motor is fine but the fan's connector has broken and will require a whole fan assembly anyway because of the way that connector is incorporated into the fan housing. A second thing to check is the fan relay. Oh, and you may have to remove the fan to access the +&- terminals on it. I can't remember for sure.


Also, does the car have ABS?

No, the LX version does not come with ABS breaks. Not impossible that they could have been added after the fact, though since it has been done.



There are no check engine light or anything. If I bring it to Autozone, is it possible for them to use a code scanner thingy and find the exact problem (even though there is no check engine light?)???

People sometimes remove the CEL bulb when selling their car so a problem doesn't show. Turn the key without starting the car and see if it turns on momentarily like the other lights do. Yes, you should have it checked at AutoZone anyway.


Im starting to think we should sell the protege for a car with a little less BAGGAGE LoL..

HELP!!

It is such a reliable car that I have a hard time recommending that. There were some lemons made of this model but yours doesn't sound like it, yet. Really bad treatment from a previous owner, now that can really make a difference. I owned a mistreated 95 for a short time and after I corrected some problems, it ran like a top.

[mannydingo]

I've also read that some people found oil and sludge in their EGR valve and resonance chamber (neat the intake manifold?).

Any body have links to ANY of my listed culprits?

Seems like all the valves and sensors on this 1.5L powerplant are either faulty or cheaply made..

That 95 I owned had oil inside that rear resonance chamber and so it would burn oil out of the tail pipe but only on fast left turns. The resonance chamber also had a broken nipple where a vacuum hose then could not be connected to. I emptied the oil out and made other repairs which made that never happen again. The MAF sensor was fried and so replaced by me and I correctly connected vacuum hoses that were all wrong. The sensors aren't really bad on these cars and there were a few of these 1.5 engines(known as the Z5)that had weak valve springs(not the valves themselves). The factory would replace those under warranty which is long over on your car.