She's starting to shimmy... new clutch help

[CHICO2003]

Fixed

[BOOSTR]

I think you flat out made a mistake. You tried to save money on the wrong part, ie a clutch used to test the break-in period. WTF does that mean, lets see how many 6000rpm drops will it hold before it starts slipping? Whatever it means, it should have been avoided. I have a Spec Stage 2 installed in my Probe GT. Followed the breakin note from Spec to the "T". Even at 15 psi and everyday abuse it does not shimmy or slip after 36,000 miles.

Just put it for sale as needing a new clutch and call it a day. Sorry man but you were had most likely.

[DH Motorsports]

The clutch, after being broken in according to SPEC, was sent back for re-evaluation. After re-evaluation, it was determined that that it had been broken in properly, and was sent back. We had this done to make sure SPEC's procedure was a good one. It had been sitting at our shop for a period of months, un-used.

The clutch was sold under those conditions, and is in like new condition. I even sent him the the like new OEM throwout bearing to avoid having to use a louder aftermarket unit. We do not use the aftermarket throw out bearings as they tend to be louder when disengaging the clutch.

The "shimmy" is most likely the fact you aren't used to a good clutch that was designed to hold power while maintain a stock pedal feel.

The clutch you have is designed to hold over 300hp without being harder to engage. The shimmy might also be a slightly stiffer pressure plate.

You are SURE the mechanic resurfaced the flywheel correctly, yes?

[TheMAN]

by "shimmy" you mean shudder or chatter? was the flywheel replaced or resurfaced? if they were then the pressure plate probably had been warped with hot spots or the clutch disc was damaged

you definately made a mistake trying to be cheap ass about the clutch.... if you wanted to save money, you should've just ordered a plain jane STOCK MSP clutch from one of the dealers on this board

[TheMAN]

oh and all warranties for ANY clutch is VOID when the flywheel has not been replaced or resurfaced properly

[DH Motorsports]

I think you flat out made a mistake. You tried to save money on the wrong part, ie a clutch used to test the break-in period. WTF does that mean, lets see how many 6000rpm drops will it hold before it starts slipping? Whatever it means, it should have been avoided. I have a Spec Stage 2 installed in my Probe GT. Followed the breakin note from Spec to the "T". Even at 15 psi and everyday abuse it does not shimmy or slip after 36,000 miles.

Just put it for sale as needing a new clutch and call it a day. Sorry man but you were had most likely.

I disagree- he didn't make a mistake, it will just take some adjusting to get used to the clutch.

[TheMAN]

there's other people with the stage 2 that don't have any problems with clutch chatter... we can only speculate it's either the driver, unmachined/poorly machined flywheel, or a bad clutch

[BOOSTR]

It is just speculation on everyones part. But a new clutch or a like new clutch whether oem or performance should not exhibit that trait when installed properly. Based on what the installer told him and this thread something is wrong. What that is who knows. I'm not trying to bash anyone at all.

So what exactly was the testing methodolgy used on this clutch? The fact that Spec sent it back as okay means nothing. Wouldn't be the first time a manufacturer denied a claim. Especially these days when the motto is deny, delay and defend.

And was this the clutch for the NA Protege or the MSP?

[shane02pro5]

Describe more specifically when this happens and how it feels. A warped flywheel is usually very obvious with a lumpy high spot in the pedal feeling when just engaging.

Like sitting on an inclined road balancing you will feel it shake. How long has your old clutch been slipping? It doesn't take long to toast a flywheel.

[kudakev615]

im going with the flywheel wasnt resurfaced. they did install a new pilot bearing, im assuming???

[o.g.sk8er]

search...

you will find people have had problems with spec. I have had nothing but trouble since installing a spec 2 crap clutch. Yes it was installed correctly by a very reputable shop, and a brand new flywheel. Sorry you are having problems...

[TheMAN]

im going with the flywheel wasnt resurfaced. they did install a new pilot bearing, im assuming???
whether the pilot bearing was replaced or not makes no big difference in the functionality of the clutch... they rarely go bad on mazdas and thus rarely need replacing anyway

[TheMAN]

search...

you will find people have had problems with spec. I have had nothing but trouble since installing a spec 2 crap clutch. Yes it was installed correctly by a very reputable shop, and a brand new flywheel. Sorry you are having problems...
what kind of flywheel did you use? stock or aftermarket?

[o.g.sk8er]

I used a stock flywheel. I have a stock exedy clutch waiting to be installed.

[CHICO2003]

Fixed

[TheMAN]

it's called clutch chatter or shudder

it is normal on some clutches but having it happen all the time up to 4000rpm doesn't sound right

did the shop resurface both the flywheel surface and the mounting points? if you don't do that, then the offset for the pressure plate is increased and that WILL burn up the clutch... I have a feeling this is what is happening... so if that is the case, get it fixed NOW before that clutch is burned up!

[CHICO2003]

Fixed

[TheMAN]

hot spots on the pressure plate that has 500 miles tells me that the clutch had been abused

you're going to have to live with the chatter or replace the whole clutch

[CHICO2003]

Fixed

[BOOSTR]

Stock MSP clutch can be had for $212.58 from Bagman1. Upgrading to an Exedy,Spec, or other brand is nice but not a must. My stock clutch is holding up well @ 67K and I'd really consider throwing another one in there based on my experience with it so far.

[CHICO2003]

Fixed

[dragtillidie]

dunno if u figured it out yet but i had this problem on my Integra. Happened when my rear main started to leak. As an ASE technician i can tell u that "shimmying" or "shuddering" under regular acceleration is a symptom of oil on clutch. Maybe its possible that he fixed his leak and sold u a clutch that was already contaminated with oil and got a new one.

[CHICO2003]

Fixed

[dragtillidie]

same thing....it might just be less contaminated then mine was

[SpeedyD]

Try replacing the front and rear motor mounts. I'd say there is a 66% chance that what you think is the clutch chattering is actually the motor moving around more now that you've changed the engagement cycle by replacing the clutch.

Buying used items is hit or miss - but it is almost never a good idea to buy used “consumable” items (filters of any kind, brake pads, clutch, etc.). Paint is a consumable item. If you ever start to get suckered into buying used consumables because of price or something - just remind yourself how silly it would be to buy used paint.

[msp35]

you realize the stock clutch is an exedy clutch right?

[shane02pro5]

Stage 1 Exedy has much higher holding power than the stock MSP Exedy clutch!