fuel cut, check engine light with a loud valve tap!!

[sailinMSP]

well my msp is fuel cuttin in second thru fifth gear, it does it when the rpm's get around 3k with the throttle pressed a little harder then granny drive style. i can also hear the turbo spool up, it pretty loud. and when i let off the gas it sounds like i have a ssqv blow off valve! the motor also has a vlve tap noise at idle that is louder then normal!! i am just lookin for the best answer to fix all this. and also if you guys think that i might still have warranty on the car? i also have a video of the valve noise!

[AcolyteMSP]

Im having the same issue man, check the cylinder head cover bolts, mine were loose.
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/4056/chboltspq9.jpg

Also sounds like a boost leak which im still trying to find mine aswell.
Valve tap, this engine has noisy lifters but check your oil
Im used to putting 3.5 quart in the car and now i put like 3.9 and it goes away.(hand)

Anyone else please help this is my problem right now too. :p
And I have done WGA and everything else.
I read the entire forums over and over lol.

Can we get some new answers to a new problem..

(man I love the way he described this its perfect. I didn't post cause I didn't know how to say it)

[sailinMSP]

well i went to andvance auto and had a quick diagnosis for the check engine light. the thing popped up a p0102 and a p0171. it also said one was for the MAF and other was o2 sensor. it said the motor was running lean??? i unplugged the MAF while engine was running and the engine idled like shit so i would think that means that its still working?

do you guys think the o2 sensor and MAF can cause fuel cut, and or ssqv blow off noise without a ssqv blow off valve installed?

[orng1]

If you have a leak at the BPV it could cause all these problems, but I have never seen the BPV come off on the exit end. Check to see if you don't have a crack or loose BPV. That could answer all 3 symptoms, loud turbo, CEL for lean, and O2 code.

[sailinMSP]

if i were to take the bypass valve off, what are the signs of a good bypass valve and the signs of a bad one?

[orng1]

if i were to take the bypass valve off, what are the signs of a good bypass valve and the signs of a bad one?

Usually the pipe cracks or breaks off at the base. maybe the BPV slide off the nipple. Hard to say but it's a thought of what it might be. Look around see if that's loose or anything around there, maybe the vac source to the BPV. I'm just throwing out ideas here for you.

[sailinMSP]

well the CEL turned off and has not showed back up! i think I am the reason the CEL came on because i unplugged the MAF connection! ooops!
well as far as i can feel around without takin things apart i cant see or feel any cracks or holes in any vacuum lines or tubes.

how big of a hole could cause a differance in boost?
i was also thinkin that if there is a leak in the turbo tubes some where could that cause a loud whistle and a ssqv blow off noise when lettin off the gas?

[haze20]

Do you have a boost guage? That is probaly the quickest way to see if you have a boost leak.

[sailinMSP]

no boost guage, i have not had the time to buy the essentials yet.
is there any other way to check?

[AcolyteMSP]

Im pretty sure mine is a boost leak too man, i made a boost leak detector but havent gotten around to trying it yet.

2.5 silicone coupler cap the end and put a tired stem in it make sure its all sealed real tight, then put it on the intake side of turbo and put like 15lbs pressure into the system and listen for leaks.

[sailinMSP]

what parts of the turbo system could get a crack or hole in them and cause these symptoms?

[greasemonkey524]

Does the exhaust mani. have a crack in it?

[orng1]

what parts of the turbo system could get a crack or hole in them and cause these symptoms?

Any part of the charge system, the WGA, the intake after the MAF, the recircuation turbe from the BPV.

[sailinMSP]

can this problem cause a spike in boost? because it really feels like i am experiancing fuel cut and i only know of the turbo being maxed out creating as much psi as the turbo can, to cause fuel cut! is this true? or are there other ways?

[Captain KRM P5]

how much boost is the car pushing?

[sailinMSP]

well i think my problem could be either the WGA or the BPV. i as thinkin of replacing both. i want to know if the forge alloy adjustable WGA and the forge motorsports BOV kit are good products?

And with the forge motorsports BOV kit would that take the place of the BPV?

[orng1]

Just get the ATP one for the MSP, it's already set and most people get 7psi with it.

If there is a leak in the charge pipes the ecu will read that there is extra air coming in but the engine will not see it. This can easily max out the injectors and cause fuel cut.

[sailinMSP]

If my WGA has gone out, can that cause the turbo to create max psi?

[Pirana]

let me tell you what I have gone thru...I have a little exhaust leak and that sometimes throws an lean CEL. Also I think most of us by now are going thru bad maf sensors. Its been a long time since we have had our cars...some of us are running more than stock boost and also running free flowing air filters and that might have messed up some Maf. I suggest you clean with electronic cleaner, dont rub it with a qtip, dont blow on it either...what normally happens is a small film (that sometimes cant be seen) will throw a difference load on the ecu. I went thru it and was getting fuel cut at half throttle and at 8 psi. So that is something to try.

Vic

[sailinMSP]

well to add more to this problem! every once in a while, right after gettin into boost just a little and then lettin off the gas and pressing the clutch the engine rpm's will drop from idle to a couple hundred and then recover!

[mazdaspeedson]

i had a similar problem with my protege with what felt like fuel cut but it was actually the engine sputtering and what it was, was the manifold bolts holding the turbo and manifold together had loosened and there was a huge seperation causing loud turbo noises and compressor surge the super sequential sound the problem worsened because they just kept backing out, also again i had what i thought was a similar problem but it happened to be a bad coil pack which should throw a check engine light to notify you which pack to change because your car has 2 of them


ps if your checkin your manifold yourself it isnt always just looking under the hood the heat sheild has to be removed but not just that my seperation was in the back side so just looking in the front didnt work you can take a mirror kinda like the ones dentists use they sell them at your local parts store and look in the back a sure sign will be easily seen seperation or harder to see carbon build up (black) on the engine block or on the turbo


good luck

[ob23]

Hi guys, I'm new here and I figured you guys could help me with problems I'm having with my speed. First in the morning, when I start the car it will Rev up to 2000 then drop down to 0 and shut the car down...Sometimes I have to start it twice before the car run proprely. What can be my problem ???

Second problem is that I have a check engine. The code is P2009, what does that indicate ? I read it up on the net but I have no clue what the description mean....(boom04) Can you guys help me with that ??


Third problem I'm having is, my HEATER doesn't work !! Again what can be the problem ??

[crashkelly]

Hi guys, I'm new here and I figured you guys could help me with problems I'm having with my speed. First in the morning, when I start the car it will Rev up to 2000 then drop down to 0 and shut the car down...Sometimes I have to start it twice before the car run proprely. What can be my problem ???

Second problem is that I have a check engine. The code is P2009, what does that indicate ? I read it up on the net but I have no clue what the description mean....(boom04) Can you guys help me with that ??


Third problem I'm having is, my HEATER doesn't work !! Again what can be the problem ??

1st problem sounds like you need to change your spark plugs...could be other things, but that is a problem I had and new plugs took care of it.

2nd problem...I dunno what that code is...i think it has something to do with the tumblers in your intake manifold...I might be wrong, but even if i am not I do not know how to fix that problem.

3rd problem...I also just had to fix my heater...check the wire cable and make sure it is attached to the heater door knob and that the metal clip is still holding the rubber around the wire tight to the white piece of plastic that it should be attached too. The heat only comes on if the heater door is held open by the cable...if the cable is not connected correctly you might get too much slack and it wont hold the door open. Or it might not be connected at all. (the wire is easily located by removing your glove box and looking under the dash on the passenger side of the car). It could also be a coolant issue.

[crashkelly]

P2009 - Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Solenoid Control Circuit Low Voltage

Very few threads on this...sounds like an electrical issue or a bad solenoid

[ob23]

CrashKelly, Thanks alot for the help. You were right in terms of the heater, a wire was disconnected. Now my heater works perfect. As for the problem in the morning, I'll go get me some spark plugs for sure. Any recommendations for spark plugs ??

By the way, what are the negative effects driving a car without a catalytic converter ??

[69RMSP]

I have the exact same symptoms...