Oil Change

[rwmayerjr]

Has anyone changed their oil yet or found a service manual for a 2008 cx-9

[CX9 SportOwner]

Just did our first one.

[rwmayerjr]

Do you know the torque on the pan bolt?

[CX9 SportOwner]

No. I used the old school mechanics trick of holding the ratchet close to the head and tightening it until it stops. When I get the actual torque setting Ill use that. BE CAREFUL. You must have noticed that the oil pan is in fact cast aluminum, not stamped steel.

[njerald]

20 ftlbs per the manual....

[just_phil]

I did mine about a month ago. The parts guy couldn't tell me the correct torque, so I did it kinda like CX9 SportOwner. He did tell me that the plug does not need to be replaced at each oil change, which was my first thought, since it's got the rubber gasket.

[rwmayerjr]

20 ftlbs per the manual....

Where did you find the manual? Does anyone know where it is in PDF?

[njerald]

Where did you find the manual? Does anyone know where it is in PDF?

I bought it from a dealer.

+ the Wiring Diagram manual.

[flatout]

what did they charge you for the service manual?

[njerald]

what did they charge you for the service manual?

$140 delivered..............

$75 delivered for the wiring manual.

[Rockadile]

I am always leary of aluminum oil pans as I hear the horror stories of stripping them. I am one of those types who doesn't like crawling under a car with a torque wrench. Anyways, I think I am gonna pick me up a Fumuto valve for this so I don't have to worry about it. I put one on my other car and I love it. Also, less mess if you get it with the nipple. If anyone's interested, you can see them here:

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

Also, code "YM4" gets you 10% off.

[stsmith]

I bought it from a dealer.

+ the Wiring Diagram manual.

Did you get a part number for both manuals?
Cheers
Steve

[njerald]

Did you get a part number for both manuals?
Cheers
Steve

NO...........

[OMF]

Did you get a part number for both manuals?
Cheers
Steve

2007 CX-9 Wiring Diagram: 9999-95-009G-07
2007 CX-9 Workshop Manual: 9999-95-003B-07
2007 CX-9 Service Highlights: 9999-95-001F-07
2007 CX-9 Automatic Transaxle and Transfer Workshop Manual AW6A-EL AW6AX-EL: 9999-95-0AW6-07
2007 CX-9 Bodyshop Manual: 9999-95-007F-07

[Lindyrect]

I just changed my oil and put in Mobile 1 full synthetic 5w-20. It sure is nice not to have to drive the car up on ramps to change the oil. Who needs a torque wrench? Tighten the bolt to stop and give it < 1/4 of a turn and it's good to go.

[ZoomFive]

I was looking to change my oil this weekend or next with about 1200 miles now on the odo.

Can you guys confirm a few things for me on the fly?

- What filter and part number did you use?
- Was the car synthetic oil to begin with or dino oil?
- Can you just slide under the car drain the oil w/o jacks or ramps?
- Can you easily reach the filter from top or bottom?
- Do you need a filter wrench of some sort or can you get your hand around the filter?
- Is there a washer that needs to be changed each time?

Thanks in advance...

- ZoomFive

[ZoomFive]

I was looking to change my oil this weekend or next with about 1200 miles now on the odo.

Can you guys confirm a few things for me on the fly?

- What filter and part number did you use?
- Was the car synthetic oil to begin with or dino oil?
- Can you just slide under the car drain the oil w/o jacks or ramps?
- Can you easily reach the filter from top or bottom?
- Do you need a filter wrench of some sort or can you get your hand around the filter?
- Is there a washer that needs to be changed each time?

Thanks in advance...

- ZoomFive

Anyone?

[Lindyrect]

Well I might be able to help some.

- I bought a fram filter, not sure which part num. K&N makes a filter too.
- Not sure of the org oil makeup, but I put mobile 1 synthetic in mine.
- Yes I slid underneath and changed my oil.
- the filter is easy to reach from below, unlike my old VW.
- I used a strap wrench to loosten it because mine was on a bit tight.
- no washer change as it is a canister replace, not a paper filter.

[ZoomFive]

Well I might be able to help some.

- I bought a fram filter, not sure which part num. K&N makes a filter too.
- Not sure of the org oil makeup, but I put mobile 1 synthetic in mine.
- Yes I slid underneath and changed my oil.
- the filter is easy to reach from below, unlike my old VW.
- I used a strap wrench to loosten it because mine was on a bit tight.
- no washer change as it is a canister replace, not a paper filter.

Nice. Thanks for the info.

Was there a washer on the drain plug? On my old mazda P5, there was a metal crush washer on the drain plug that needed to be replaced periodically.

[GrayCX9]

I changed mine at about 1,000 miles a few months ago. The factory drain plug had a substantial rubber washer on the plug. It looks like it should be good for several oil changes, maybe even for life of the vehicle. Prior to the oil change I purchased a filter and a drain plug washer from the dealer. The installed factory filter was slightly different than the new one from the dealer. The factory installed filter had no part number on it, and the washer the dealer provided was a metal one, which was obviously incorrect. This made me question the filter the dealer provided. An internet search revealed that the new filter had the correct part number.

[ZoomFive]

I changed mine at about 1,000 miles a few months ago. The factory drain plug had a substantial rubber washer on the plug. It looks like it should be good for several oil changes, maybe even for life of the vehicle. Prior to the oil change I purchased a filter and a drain plug washer from the dealer. The installed factory filter was slightly different than the new one from the dealer. The factory installed filter had no part number on it, and the washer the dealer provided was a metal one, which was obviously incorrect. This made me question the filter the dealer provided. An internet search revealed that the new filter had the correct part number.


The part number I see on the internet is YF09-14-302A.

[kosh2258]

You can also use a Motorcraft FL400S - it's the same filter that comes on the vehicle from the factory.

Ted

[CX9 SportOwner]

The CX-9 has a cast and machined oil pan. not the typical stamped steel type, so the need for a crushable washer is no more.

[Lindyrect]

The CX-9 has a cast and machined oil pan. not the typical stamped steel type, so the need for a crushable washer is no more.

That's cool to know the difference, Kudos.

[kosh2258]

The CX-9 has a cast and machined oil pan. not the typical stamped steel type, so the need for a crushable washer is no more.

The pan design has little to do with it, it's just an engineering choice.

Hondas have cast and machined aluminum oil pans and use crush washers on their drain plugs. Heck, they use crush washers on ALL their plugs, drain, fill, check, you name it. The crush washer approach is, apparently, a Japanese preference.

These engines, the 3.5 and 3.7, are Ford designed and they've simply chosen to go the reusable soft seal route on the drain plug, which seems to be an American engineering preference.

The soft seal is probably a little more forgiving of being overtightened because it will give a bit more than a crush washer.

Ted

[njerald]

The pan design has little to do with it, it's just an engineering choice.

Honda's have cast and machined aluminum oil pans and use crush washers on their drain plugs. Heck, they use crush washers on ALL their plugs, drain, fill, check, you name it. The crush washer approach is, apparently, a Japanese preference.

These engines, the 3.5 and 3.7, are Ford designed and they've simply chosen to go the reusable soft seal route on the drain plug, which seems to be an American engineering preference.

The soft seal is probably a little more forgiving of being overtightened because it will give a bit more than a crush washer.

Ted

+1

Good explanation to counter the old wives tales spread throughout these forums.

[CX9 SportOwner]

I wasnt disputing the USE of the crushable. Just the NEED for it.

[ZoomFive]

Is there any sort of underbody splash shield to remove before changing the oil?

[kosh2258]

Is there any sort of underbody splash shield to remove before changing the oil?

Nope.

Ted

[WaxiP5]

I have been using the Motorcraft FL400S (Ford) with Castrol Semi Synthetic 5W-20. Below are comparative pics of the stock filter and the FL400S

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_4532.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_4531.jpg

[kosh2258]

I have been using the Motorcraft FL400S (Ford) with Castrol Semi Synthetic 5W-20. Below are comparative pics of the stock filter and the FL400S

[/IMG]


Judging by the dents in the base of the old filter casing it looks like you had the same challenge getting the factory filter off that I did. Mine was on way way too tight.

I see there are some differences between the factory piece and the FL400S you had. The FL400S I bought at Wal-Mart was identical to the factory filter.

Ted

[WaxiP5]

Judging by the dents in the base of the old filter casing it looks like you had the same challenge getting the factory filter off that I did. Mine was on way way too tight.

I see there are some differences between the factory piece and the FL400S you had. The FL400S I bought at Wal-Mart was identical to the factory filter.

Ted

Yes, the original filter was a biatch to remove.

I bought mine from Advance Auto Parts. Maybe Motorcraft did a revision that consumers do not know of.

[kosh2258]

Yes, the original filter was a biatch to remove.

I bought mine from Advance Auto Parts. Maybe Motorcraft did a revision that consumers do not know of.

Entirely possible.

Ted

[TinMan]

Just did my first change w/ Mobil1 5W20. I used the motorcraft FL400S filter too.
For the record, mine looked like the photo posted by waxip5. But then we live in the same county, but I bought mine at Wallymart. Either way, it worked fine. Wish this thing held 5 US quarts instead of 5.2q, it would be a lot easier to just buy one 5q jug. I wonder of other countries sell a 5L jug of oil instead. Then you would have some left over for topping off later, instead of having to buy an extra quart just to fill it. :)

Oh, and yeah, I crushed the factory filter some getting it off. Not the worst factory filter I have had to remove though. I got it with my old pair of oil filter pliers when I couldn't locate my socket. Once I had to resort to peircing one along the axis with a long screwdriver to torque it off...

[dohc97]

I am always leary of aluminum oil pans as I hear the horror stories of stripping them. I am one of those types who doesn't like crawling under a car with a torque wrench. Anyways, I think I am gonna pick me up a Fumuto valve for this so I don't have to worry about it. I put one on my other car and I love it. Also, less mess if you get it with the nipple. If anyone's interested, you can see them here:

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

Also, code "YM4" gets you 10% off.


Has anybody actually have tried using this? I was supposed to change the oil today, but I might have to defer it to next weekend and order this first.

[CX9 SportOwner]

We had a FRAM quick change on our last car, and it worked great. Unscrew the cap and screw on the hose, which then opens the valve. Pull the hose, valve closed

[dohc97]

The wife's CX9 has 1300+ miles and I've just finished changing the oil and filter. As some have said, the oem filter is a beast to remove. I used a K&N oil filter which has a 'thingie' at the end where I can use a regular 15mm wrench the next time I do this. I also installed the Fumoto quick oil change valve. I refilled it with Mobil 1 5w-20.

And I did this on a 100 degree day!. Time for a cold one.

[badself]

The wife's CX9 has 1300+ miles and I've just finished changing the oil and filter. As some have said, the oem filter is a beast to remove. I used a K&N oil filter which has a 'thingie' at the end where I can use a regular 15mm wrench the next time I do this. I also installed the Fumoto quick oil change valve. I refilled it with Mobil 1 5w-20.

And I did this on a 100 degree day!. Time for a cold one.

I, too, purchased a Fumoto valve (with nipple and adapter for the recessed oil pan). I'll be installing it soon with my first oil change as I have only 500 miles on the factory break-in oil. Can't decide whether to do the 5W-20 Mobil 1 at 600 or 1,000 miles. I'm going with the Mobil 1 filter as well, and hoping the density of the synthetic filtering medium doesn't affect engine oil pressure too adversely.

[Roosterbite]

I don't understand. Why are so many of you changing your oil so early? Is it a piece of mind thing, or do you think your motor will be damaged if you don't. Does everyone in the States change their oil every 1300-3000 miles?

[dohc97]

I don't understand. Why are so many of you changing your oil so early? Is it a piece of mind thing, or do you think your motor will be damaged if you don't. Does everyone in the States change their oil every 1300-3000 miles?

I do an early oil change(at 1,000 miles) for the first time. I then do my succeeding oil changes at 5,000 miles. I also use Mobil1 on my cars, past and prresent. On my motorcyle, I do the first oil change at 600 miles and after 3,000 miles afterward. I use Amsoil on my Ducati.

[jabba]

I don't understand. Why are so many of you changing your oil so early? Is it a piece of mind thing, or do you think your motor will be damaged if you don't. Does everyone in the States change their oil every 1300-3000 miles?

Some people like to do their first oil change early--the thought here is that the original oil might have some metal fines, etc. Other people believe that the original oil should stay in 5000 miles, since it helps break in rubber rings, etc.

Personally, on my Audi I change my oil every 5000 miles, and that's only because it's turbo charged, otherwise I'd probably do it every 7500 miles. I use Mobil 1 synthetic, and have seen plenty of analysis of people who send their used oil to Blackstone Lab for analysis, and the oil looks perfect after 5000 miles. Heck, oil still looks good after almost 10,000 miles in many cases.

So for the CX-9, I'll only do it every 5000 miles.

[CX9 SportOwner]

5000

[clarko]

Just out of interest, what is the service shedule for the CX9 in the US manual?

Over here our service manual states it is every 10,000km (which is 16,000miles) between oil changes.

My last car was a Ford 6cylinder Turbo and the shedule for oil changes was every 15,000km, but I used to halve that and use a high quality synthetic oil.

[todd92]

You have the km/mile conversion backwards.

The manual says 7500 miles here unless you follow the 'premium' schedule which is designed to empty your wallet for no benefit.

[clarko]

You have the km/mile conversion backwards.

The manual says 7500 miles here unless you follow the 'premium' schedule which is designed to empty your wallet for no benefit.


Oh, how RED is my face?

I must have got up too early this morning and the coffee didnt have time to kick in(sssh)

Your absolutely right, and that would make my shedule service of 10,000km be equal to every 6,250miles, that sounds a bit better eh!

[todd92]

No worries.

[Rockadile]

For anyone interested in a fumoto valve who has a 2007 CX-9 with the 3.5L engine...

After searching an speaking with the manufacturer, I've confirmed that you need the 107 valve, but no adapter. It seems that only the 3.7L on the 2008+ models have a recessed oil pan. Just wanted to save you guys the $6 I spent ordering incorrectly.

[badself]

For anyone interested in a fumoto valve who has a 2007 CX-9 with the 3.5L engine...

After searching an speaking with the manufacturer, I've confirmed that you need the 107 valve, but no adapter. It seems that only the 3.7L on the 2008+ models have a recessed oil pan. Just wanted to save you guys the $6 I spent ordering incorrectly.

Quickoildrainvalve.com (formerly FumotoValve.com) clearly states on the site that the adapter is required only with the recessed pan in the '08. I purchased the 107n in order to connect a flexible hose to the valve for a cleaner job. Clearance is not an issue in either case, the 107 pertrudes 1/2 inch more than the OE drain bolt head and the 107n pertrudes 1 1/8 inches beyond the OE head.

[Rockadile]

Quickoildrainvalve.com (formerly FumotoValve.com) clearly states on the site that the adapter is required only with the recessed pan in the '08. I purchased the 107n in order to connect a flexible hose to the valve for a cleaner job. Clearance is not an issue in either case, the 107 pertrudes 1/2 inch more than the OE drain bolt head and the 107n pertrudes 1 1/8 inches beyond the OE head.

They've actually changed their wording, though it can still be a bit misleading. Prior to the change, they mentioned nothing about a 3.5L. I emailed them and they told me to get the 107 and the adapter. I then emailed the manufacturer and they told me they weren't sure if it was needed. Just wanted to give everyone a heads up.

[brightwhite]

Thanks for the tips guys, going to change the oil in our GT today and was wondering about the crush washer issue.

I picked up a WIX filter, anyone tried this one, I use them on my 3 GT and it works great.

http://www.wixconnect.com/images/filters/3810_1.gif

[badself]

Thanks for the tips guys, going to change the oil in our GT today and was wondering about the crush washer issue.

I picked up a WIX filter, anyone tried this one, I use them on my 3 GT and it works great.

http://www.wixconnect.com/images/filters/3810_1.gif

I really like Wix filters, they are a quality compromise to the more expensive K&N filter. Actually, I picked up 10 Mobil 1 filters and 50 quarts of Mobil 1 5w20 when Advance Auto had them on sale recently (one filter and five quarts for $26). I've heard Mobil 1 filters sometimes restrict oil pressure due to the synthetic filtering medium, so we'll see. But, given a choice, for the money, I'd use Wix. I would assume the Wix could go the distance with a 7,500 mile oil change interval using synthetic, because that's my intention.

[badself]

I, too, purchased a Fumoto valve (with nipple and adapter for the recessed oil pan). I'll be installing it soon with my first oil change as I have only 500 miles on the factory break-in oil. Can't decide whether to do the 5W-20 Mobil 1 at 600 or 1,000 miles. I'm going with the Mobil 1 filter as well, and hoping the density of the synthetic filtering medium doesn't affect engine oil pressure too adversely.

Finally installed the Fumoto valve, Mobil 1 5w-20, and Mobil 1 filter. My wife was away for three weeks for the birth of our twin grandkids, so the changeover from break-in oil to synthetic didn't happen till 2,150 miles.

Apparently, these Fumoto valves have sold over two million units without one reported failure. I fully expect it to last the life of the vehicle, and will never have to worry about stripping the oil pan threads. Well worth the $32 investment.

Next, I'm going to order the bodyside moldings from Sportwing. Basically, they're the cost of one paintless dent removal, and I hear Sportwing does a good paint match.

[cccx9]

Did my first oil change at about 2600 miles. Used mobil 1 and motorcraft filter. Replaced drain plug with fumoto valve. I got the extender piece that it says is required for the '08. My pan doesn't seem to have a recessed drain hole though.

My oil pan must have a ton of rough edges on it. I came away with about 5 cuts/scratches after the oil change. I didn't feel anything sharp at the time but noticed when I washed up. Is everyone else's oil pan like this?

[badself]

Did my first oil change at about 2600 miles. Used mobil 1 and motorcraft filter. Replaced drain plug with fumoto valve. I got the extender piece that it says is required for the '08. My pan doesn't seem to have a recessed drain hole though.

My oil pan must have a ton of rough edges on it. I came away with about 5 cuts/scratches after the oil change. I didn't feel anything sharp at the time but noticed when I washed up. Is everyone else's oil pan like this?

Yes, if you look closely at the pan, there are rough "serrations" all over the outer surface; presumably, they are a by-product of the casting process. I guess it would add extra cost in material, machinery, and man-hours to machine smooth the entire outer surface of the pan.

Look at the bright side. Now that you have installed the Fumoto Valve, you won't be getting your bare hands anywhere near the surface of the pan on your future oil changes. The valve with the nipple is the way to go, since you can run a hose straight from the valve to your container.

[Afsigma21]

I use the WIX filers solely on all my cars, they are a superior filter to most. I mail order them from www.fleetfilter.com IF you buy a few at a time it is really inexpensive. I am SO EXCITED to hear that the FL400S is the right filter, as this is the same filter for my Ranger and my Expedition. I now have ALL 3 vehicles using the same filter. AWESOME.

I will probably just order me up a dozen filters. I generally use Motorcraft 5w20 Synthetic blend, but I think I will go to a full synth for the CX9.

[petesamprs]

How much does the dealership typically charge for an oil change?

Self-change looks like it would be about $45-50 in parts for oil (6 qts) + filter. Assuming you trust your dealership putting in the right oil and doing the change properly (a big "IF" for some people), is it worth doing it yourself? Time spend is probably a wash (going to dealer and waiting vs. buying the parts, doing the change and dealing with disposing the oil)

These are basic questions because my prior cars were leased BMWs where oil changes were covered and I had no long-term liability, so I never considered doing it myself.

[ceric]

My local Mazda dealers want about $29~$32 for oil change, plus N-point inspections.
However, one can visit MazdaUsa.com website and register as Owner (need VIN number). Once registered, you have access some goodies from Mazda (PDF manuals, recall notices, maintenance records, etc.) One of the goodies is a set of "universal" maintenance coupons. You can print it out and take it to any Mazda dealers. I just used it last week. The same oil change, lube, N-point inspection for $24.95 with OE oil and filter.

BTW, Toyota wants $39 for a similar oil change. $32 with coupon and on Tuesday to Thursday.

[petesamprs]

My local Mazda dealers want about $29~$32 for oil change, plus N-point inspections.
However, one can visit MazdaUsa.com website and register as Owner (need VIN number). Once registered, you have access some goodies from Mazda (PDF manuals, recall notices, maintenance records, etc.) One of the goodies is a set of "universal" maintenance coupons. You can print it out and take it to any Mazda dealers. I just used it last week. The same oil change, lube, N-point inspection for $24.95 with OE oil and filter.

BTW, Toyota wants $39 for a similar oil change. $32 with coupon and on Tuesday to Thursday.

thanks. The coupon on my mymazda page shows up at $34.95 for the following:
* Change motor oil per specifications.
* Install a Genuine Mazda oil filter.
* Top off vital fluids.
* Complete a Mazda Full Circle Service Inspection.
* Synthetic Oil extra.
* Some models slightly higher - see dealer for details

Note that synthetic oil is extra, but I don't know how much. What's included in a "Full service" inspection?

[ceric]

Every oil change at Mazda dealer includes a "full-circle inspection".
It includes testing battery, brake pads, etc. in addition to topping off vital fluids.
Maybe it is a regional thing, mine still shows $24.95 at Oak Tree Mazda in San Jose.
In that case, go to the dealers' website for service special coupon. It may be lower.

[xarthan]

anyone know what bolt size the drain plug is on the cx-9?

[danz75]

I've looked at fumoto valves before and always had concerns that most OEM drain plugs have a magnet to 'catch' shavings. The fumoto has no magnet to do this.

The other concern is that I've heard of a fe isolated cases that because the valve protrudes slightly below the oil pan level and there's a slight chance that the valve can be opened or knocked off if it is hit by road debris or if offroading, gets caught on brush and ground cover.

[cccx9]

anyone know what bolt size the drain plug is on the cx-9?

15mm I believe

[Touring9]

Yes, 15mm

[xarthan]

awesome thanks guys

[cccx9]

I've looked at fumoto valves before and always had concerns that most OEM drain plugs have a magnet to 'catch' shavings. The fumoto has no magnet to do this.

The other concern is that I've heard of a fe isolated cases that because the valve protrudes slightly below the oil pan level and there's a slight chance that the valve can be opened or knocked off if it is hit by road debris or if offroading, gets caught on brush and ground cover.

I used a fumoto valve for one oil change on my CX-9. My problem with it is it flows too slow for me. I'm impatient so I took it off and it now sits in my garage. Lemme know if you want to buy it.

I wouldn't be concerned with it being hit and knocked open. The valve is pretty solid. If you're getting hit with rocks or something then you're more likely to puncture that aluminum oil pan than you are to knock that fumoto valve off or open. That valve will not open by accident. My 2 cents.

[mihalis]

My wife's CX-9 has about 4k miles on it. I looked at the service manual yesterday for the first time. It looks like I can go 7500 miles between oil changes. We don't have kids yet, and most of the driving she does is highway, and she is not agressive with it at all. I guess I can do the first oil change at 5k miles, but why waste the $? When I had my BMW it required an oil change once a year or every 15,000 miles. I used to get nervous, so I did one every 5k miles, then I realized I was throwing money out the window so I started going 7,500 miles, still wasting money.

The way I look at it is this: If Mazda is telling you perform the service at that time, and they are the ones that warranty the car to you, why would they tell you NOT to service the car? Dealers will always try and steal money from you for no reason, like checking brakes, belts, blah, blah, blah. The car is brand new, if there is a problem with any of those things, then I can just take it in for that specific reason.

PS, when I do change the oil, I will probably go with a blend.

[ceric]

Well, BMW oil change interval is long because they use full synthetic oil.
(used to own one)
Your Mazda (and mine) CX9 don't.
Mazda recommends 5000/7500 miles interval for oil change.
I stick with 5000 on the conservative side since a lot of my drives are very short.
Even if you use synthetic on the CX9 (half-blend or full), replace the oil before 7500 miles.
Otherwise, Mazda might not cover it with warranty if something goes wrong with the engine
after that.
Remember the Toyota oil sludge issue a few years back?
Back then, Toyota asked for maintenance records before engine with sludge problem was
covered for repair.

[cccx9]

PS, when I do change the oil, I will probably go with a blend.

The Motorcraft Synthetic blend is an excellent oil and can be found at WM for a really great price. Check here if you want more info:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm



Also, your BMW probably had a higher oil capacity which also aids in longer drain intervals.

[cccx9]

Just found this thread on Motorcraft oil. This guy has too much time on his hands...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1666049&page=1

[Touring9]

The Motorcraft Synthetic blend is an excellent oil and can be found at WM for a really great price.

The Motorcraft Synth Blend 5W-20 is exactly what I use, and change it every 5k.

[Pootie Tang]

Any issue going to synth at 30,000 miles? Just bought the car, it's an 08. I prefer Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 filter.

[Lindyrect]

Never an issue going synthetic. Back in the day you were advised not to go from organic to synthetic or back the other way due to lack of better refinement for lack of a better term. I use the Mobil 1 and filter because Autozone gives a good deal. Instead of Mobil 1 oil and Fram filter ($50ish) I pay $29ish.

[Pootie Tang]

Did it last night. Went with the 5W-20 and filter from Mobil 1. Makes sense to put up $7 more for a top quality filter over a minimum of 6 months. I have not decided whether I will change the filter in 6 or 12.

Incidentally, on my past cars (one I still have), which were 1995 and 1996 Volvo 850 Turbos, I went synth from dino at about 100K miles. The engines were already leaking oil, and the synth did not make it worse, but I swear the engines felt better all around. From cold startup through normal temp and during hotter summer days. Personally, I am convinced it is not psychological, even with fresh dino juice. Synth is far better- period. I went back to dino at 195K miles for the 1996 and 245K for the 1995. I am pretty sure the dino juice is what did the 1996 engine in which is how I ended up here on Mazdas247.com. My 1995 has since gone back to Mobil 1.

[cccx9]

Yup good combo. I've been running M1 5w-20 w/ the motorcraft filter and have been happy. The motorcraft filter is made by purolator to Ford's specs. It is the same as the OEM Mazda filter you would buy at the dealer. It probably isn't good for extended drains but works well for the 5K mi intervals I'm doing while under warranty.

[CX9 SportOwner]

I switched to the Motorcraft Synth Blend also.

[cccx9]

I switched to the Motorcraft Synth Blend also.

That's an excellent oil! I'm going to be using that in our protege next oil change.

[ceric]

I visited Oak Tree Mazda today for oil change.
$32.88 with coupon (from their website)
-$7 Mail-in-rebate (from Castrol with GTX 5W20)
=================
<$26 + TAX
Not a bad deal, right?
On top of that, OakTree Mazda gave it a very decent car wash.
(N-point inspection included - they gave me a full-inspection check list)

Next time, at 30K, I will do
- transfer case oil replacement (~$65)
- transmission fluid drain and refill (~$135)
in addition to the oil change.
These prices seem reasonable, but I definitely will find a 10%-15% off coupon.

[Davicho]

How often should ATF be replaced or drained and refilled?

[ceric]

According to Mazda schedule? Never.
It is life-time, if you believe such a thing.

[Davicho]

Well, what do you think I should do....my CX-9 is at 62K miles but I dont know if the previous owner did any ATF servicing. If I do an ATF service will I run into transmission shock because the ATF may be so old that the trans is used to it that way and flushing/replacing with new clean ATF cause transmission problems?

[BlackCherry06]

Transmission shock is a fallacy. What causes the problem you're referring to is when a severely neglected transmission receives a flush, it loosens sludge that later travels through the transmission and plugs passages and in severe cases, cooler lines. The transmission dies from fluid starvation.

[Pootie Tang]

62K is not that old. And if, as I recall, the factory oil is synth, it should be fine to replace (if at all). From other vehicles, and other completely different transmissions, I have learned that changing the transmission fluid every 6 months-1 year can give a trans a much longer life.

If it is dino-juice (non-synth), then I would do it at least once a year. I hate that stuff.

How practical it is to change that often is quite another thing.

[CX9 SportOwner]

Not practical, since the fluid needs to be pumped out. It will not drain more than a quart or two by gravity.

Also, unless you use the exact fluid required, you will do more harm than leaving the original fluid in place.

[Davicho]

Cool, then I better let the experts do a drain (or pump) and refill. Just as an FYI the fluid Mazda uses for our CX-9's is none other then Motorcraft Mercon-SP part number #XT-6-QSP

[Pootie Tang]

Cool, then I better let the experts do a drain (or pump) and refill. Just as an FYI the fluid Mazda uses for our CX-9's is none other then Motorcraft Mercon-SP part number #XT-6-QSP

Is that Synthetic?

My AllDataDIY.com CX-9 spec said it was a JWS3309 spec. A google of that came back with a hit from Mobil:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_ATF_3309.aspx

[Pootie Tang]

Looking into Mobil 1 synthetic, I found this:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_1_Synthetic_ATF.aspx

Check out the "Not recommended for". It lists Mercon-SP. I wonder why?

[Davicho]

I got the info on the Mercon-SP from my buddy that works at Riverside Mazda. Mercon-SP is not synthetic.

Also, it says: * Not recommend for CVT applications, Mercon® SP, Ford Type F.

But our tansmissions are not CVT, they are conventional transmissions.

[ceric]

JWS3309 is not synthetic as I found out, which is even scarier since it is supposed to stay in your tranny for life-time. Can you believe that?!
Anyway, more reason to "drain and refill" the fluid.
My schedule is 30K-15K-15k..... for it.
It is true that a big portion is locked up in the torque converter.
Thru drain and refill frequently, eventually, you replace most of the fluid.
I'd stay with the same fluid though it seems that there are better kinds of fluid out there.
(exactly because if the dilution process)

In my old BMW (also life-time fluid), the fluid was synthetic, and there were four magnets at the floor plan to catch metal debris.

I agree with BlackCherry06, flushing the transmission accelerates the dislodging of metal debris. However, eventually they will cause problem anyway. Flushing the transmission is more like a stress test, which makes bad thing happens earlier only.

Anyway, my dealer only does drain and refill when I asked.
That is what I would do at 30K.

[Pootie Tang]

EDIT: Below, it is not clear if Mercon SP SHOULD be used for the Aisin F21++ in the CX-9.

Davicho, I take the exception to mean that Mobil 1 should not be used for CVT's or Mercon SP, or Type F.

DO our units (Aisin F21++) use SP which means that Mobil 1 is not recommended?

Ceric,

I will call Amsoil and see what they say about using Synth for Mercon SP. They tend to reside on the more "loose" side of the use spectrum, good or bad.

[Pootie Tang]

Spoke with Amsoil tech department. Mercon SP is a thinner oil classified as "fuel efficient" and it is not compatible unless specifically mentioned as such.

Amsoil makes a "blue label" full synth that is an upgrade/replacement for Mercon SP.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atl.aspx

How much I should order for the flush and fill? (If that is the right oil)

[Davicho]

Pootie, I would probably order a full case (12qts.) to do a complete flush.

[Pootie Tang]

Great, thanks!

[CX9 SportOwner]

Only use the 3309 or T-IV, from my research.

I wouldn't even use Motorcraft, since it's not a Ford transmission.

[Davicho]

Toyota T-IV??

Part #00279-000T4-01
$5.04/qt

[CX9 SportOwner]

Yep

[Pootie Tang]

Only use the 3309 or T-IV, from my research.

I wouldn't even use Motorcraft, since it's not a Ford transmission.

I am confused now. So the Ford 6F IS NOT the same as the Aisin F21++.

What synth oil do we use for the Aisin?

[CX9 SportOwner]

Use JWS3309 or T-IV. You can try AMSOIL ATF, but if it damages your transmission, Mazda won't pay for it.

I would ask Mazda directly first. If they approve it, then they can't blame you for using it.

[ceric]

Ford has its own transmission.
Mazda CX9 uses transmission from Aisin, who also supplies transmission to Volvo, Toyota and Lexus among others.
JWS3309 and Toyota T-IV are probably the same with diff names. My guess only.
Neither is synthetic.

[Pootie Tang]

So using a synth that meets JWS3309 should work just fine. Such as Mobil 1 Synth ATF- which says it meets it.

Got it, thanks. Took me a while there.

[ceric]

It is very difficult to get the fluid out from the torque converter if possible.
Therefore, if you use a different fluid, make sure you understand that you will be mixing two kinds of fluid in the transmission. No one knows the effect of it. I am not risking it personally.
The benefit of using synthetic deminishes if you replace it regularly, says every 15k after first 30K replacement.

In my BMW days (hanging around BMW forums), that was what most owners did to their "life-time fuid" transmissions. Those who did not, some experienced failed transmission between 75K to 100K. My friend's '03 BMW 323i had transmission failure at only 55K. When the pan was opened, a bunch of metal debris fell down (as big as rice grains), and the fluid was very dark and dirty. The cost of replacement in BMW case was $5000!!!
(BMW warranties their vehicle for .... you guessed it! 50K miles)

Not trying to scare you, folks.
I just have a hard time believing in "life-time" XYZ. That is all.