greddy turbo timer ?

[allmotor95pgt]

does anyone know what wires and colors to use to tap in to for the turbo timer. There is a red, a black/red,yellow. The red and black/red are both constant 12 volts, and yellow seems to be acc,or ign.Dont remember. Am i on the right track? If not someone please point me in the right direction. thanks. (smash)

[allmotor95pgt]

its hard to beleave no one knows what wires to use for a turbo timer.

[b15nut]

I copied this from another forum that should not be spoken about :)

My brother in law and I installed the GReddy TT (black of course) last night in the Speed3, and I wanted to make sure anyone else out there had an Idiots Guide to the install. (Sorry no pics, I’m working on that!)

First, read through this entirely before ripping the car apart!)

Let's start with the box. We all know how to read Japanese, right? So, the next step is to log onto GReddy’s website, and they have the English version to download.
You’ll have the timer, an extension harness, double sided sticky and a couple zip ties. (Depending on where the timer will be installed will determine if you will use the harness extension-for install on the top of steering column, you will NOT need the extension!)

Disconnect the negative terminal.
On to the car (beautiful car that they are).
Disconnect the negative terminal.
Push the seat back, tilt the column up and pull out as far as she will go.
On the bottom side of the column, you will find 3 Phillips screws securing the shroud (2 in front, one tucked in the back- you will need an extension, and some patience removing the back screw!)
“Finagle” the shroud off the column (I removed completely) you will need to unplug the little red light from the shroud in order to drop it!
Remove the top plastic shroud buy pushing the 4 rubber grommets out of the shroud, and pull out of the way. (Leave the rubber tucked in the dash-it is a PAIN to reinstall this piece!)
You’re now looking at a ton of wires. This is easy, I promise.
The SPECIFIC wires we are looking for (on the Speed3) all come off of the left (Drivers side) of the column. There is a gray connector that attaches the harness to the column. Pull down on the gray bar, and wiggle out (its okay to use some force the wires are in the connector pretty well). This is where we are going to look for our 3 wires (the timer has 4-The black wire is for a ground only!)
Begin by cutting the harness off the unit (NOTE: leave the harness on if you are choosing to locate the timer in an area that the short wires will not reach! You will need to plug the extension in, and then cut the harness off the end of this, NOT the Timer Unit!). Next strip 1/4'”-1/2” of wire from the Black, Red, Blue and Green wires on the Timer unit (or harness extension). (set aside for now)
In the wiring harness we removed, we are going to need the BLACK AND RED (continuous 12V supply), PINK AND YELLOW (ignition/ON), and GREEN AND YELLOW (2nd ignition).

The pattern that we will need to solder wires is this:
Car: Unit:
Green / Yellow Blue
Pink / Yellow Green
Blk / Red Red
Bolt Black (ground)
Don’t make finding these wires harder then it is, they staring right at you (I looked, and looked…they’re right there)

Once the 3 wires have been located, you need to make a choice as to how you will attach the timer wires (i.e.-solder, butt connector, ect.)
If soldering, strip ¼” of wire from the middle back (towards the engine) of the selected wire (do not cut the wire through, only strip, and remove the vinyl insulation)
Once the wires have been securely attached to the harness (your own opinion will know how well they are attached), be sure to cover the solder with splicing tape, or a good 3+ rolls (not the whole roll…) of electrical tape. If using butt connectors, shrink tube is the best bet here (you need to remember to push this on prior to solder!)
The unit is wired. That’s it. Simple. We have now told the cars computer that there will be a key in the ignition, turned to the ON position, even after we remove the key. (Kind of like the remote starter systems for us peeps in the Deep North).
There is a test run through that GReddy has you perform prior to putting the column back together (I will not add this here it is on the website, as well as in Japanese included with the Timer).
Once you are confident that the unit is performing correctly, and you feel secure in your solder or butt (connector), let’s start to put the column back together.

NOTE- I chose to locate the unit on the top of the column, just off center (my choice, no comments please) so the put-together will reflect this!

Begin by “finagling” the lower column shroud back over the tilt handle, and under the lower dash shroud (let hang). I chose to snip the #2 grommet out (to feed the wires through) as well as the corresponding plastic plug on the top shroud. (For a cleaner look, you could choose to drill the correct diameter hole through the plastic and grommet, and prior to soldering, feed these two pieces over the wires.)
Once the correct cutting has been done, begin by feeding the remaining 3 grommets back into their respective holes. Once you have attached the top column shroud to the rubber dash piece, plug the light back in, and snap the lower shroud to the upper shroud. (Your column should now resemble stock (with a kick ass timer hanging on the top).
Proceed to reinstall the 3 Phillips screws we removed at the beginning.
Apply the sticky tape (supplied with Timer) to the TIMER first, then position and press firmly across the top to ensure a tight fit. (NOTE: Depending on dash products used to clean or care for your car, make sure the adhesion point is clean of any Armor All type products!)
Surprise! You’ve now completed the install portion of this guide.
The GReddy manual will have a couple test runs that they would like for you to perform prior to taking the car on public streets, please be safe, and make sure you are comfortable in the operation of the Timer prior to driving.

Thanks to all the guys I called (you know who you are) and all the members of the forum for their input.
Michael

PS
There are 3 other wires connected to the timer unit. The GRAY wire is not used in the USA, period. The pair of PURPLE and BROWN wires are the speed sensor wires, and the E-brake sensor wire (Purple=Speed, Brown= E brake). Simply clipping the harness, strip the BROWN E-brake wire and ground this with the black wire (to "correctly" install the ebrake feature, you will need to ID this wire (I didn't, and I dont think I would know where to start).
__________________

[allmotor95pgt]

thanks for the post. i just installed it works great.

[b15nut]

No problem. Glad to hear it went well!

[justa4banger]

Most poeple alreadsy know its a waste of money, thats why no one posted anything up. Enjoy your new toy though.

[allmotor95pgt]

yeah well it saves ur turbo so its not a waste of money or time.

[justa4banger]

yeah well it saves ur turbo so its not a waste of money or time.

Prove to me that it saves the turbo? Show me the documentation. I'm sorry but turbo timers are great for older non ball bearing, non watercooled turbos for a driver that doesn't know how to take care of his car.

Just change the oil regularly and drive the last 30 seconds of your drive like you have a brain, and the stock turbo will out last you and the next several owners.

Starve your turbo for oil, block the return line with sludge , or over work the turbo will clearly cause it to fail prematurely.

[clos561]

Prove to me that it saves the turbo? Show me the documentation. I'm sorry but turbo timers are great for older non ball bearing, non watercooled turbos for a driver that doesn't know how to take care of his car.

Just change the oil regularly and drive the last 30 seconds of your drive like you have a brain, and the stock turbo will out last you and the next several owners.

Starve your turbo for oil, block the return line with sludge , or over work the turbo will clearly cause it to fail prematurely.

+1

[allmotor95pgt]

this is out of greddys page.

Turbo Timers

Designed to prolong the life of your turbocharge, while adding connivance. GReddy Full Auto Turbo Timers allow a vehicle to idle the engine for a timed period, with the ignition key removed. This conveniently allows the engine oil and turbo center cartridge to cool down properly and prolong turbo and oil life. This can be done by two standard programmable count down presets (P-1, P-2), or the GReddy Full Auto Timer can use it’s two auto timer modes (A-L, A-H). The modes estimate the driving RPM according to the vehicle's alternator signal and then recommend a count down time. A stopwatch/lap time and attack modes along with a built in voltmeter and speedometer are also standard features. Safety options for the parking brake and speedo hook-ups can be used to disengage operation if vehicle is attempted to be moved without the key. There are also optional easy to install plug-in adapter harnesses available for most Japanese turbo vehicles.

plus every turbo car owner knows not to shut off there car right after a race or hard driving. its just a pain to sit in ur car for 30 sec to 1 min when its really hot outside and all u want to do is go in side and relax. thats my my reason for putting it on. plus it was a gift from my wonderful wife. and it looks good in my mod list.lol

[CaSHMeRe]

Prove to me that it saves the turbo? Show me the documentation. I'm sorry but turbo timers are great for older non ball bearing, non watercooled turbos for a driver that doesn't know how to take care of his car.

Just change the oil regularly and drive the last 30 seconds of your drive like you have a brain, and the stock turbo will out last you and the next several owners.

Starve your turbo for oil, block the return line with sludge , or over work the turbo will clearly cause it to fail prematurely.

u just proved your self wrong in that statement....

"Show me the ducumentation." then you state, "...drive the last 30 seconds of your drive like you have a brain." So, what happens if you drive the car hard right up until you park it yet have no time to sit ... a turbo timer would come in handy.

NOt everyone has the same driving habits, therefore, some people might find a good use for a TT and yet others who relax the throttle the last few minutes of driving don't need to.

don't be rude and obnoxious and say something like this. People mod for different reasons.

Most poeple alreadsy know its a waste of money, thats why no one posted anything up. Enjoy your new toy though.

[mazdaspeed32007]

i have to agree....although i have one so id be a bastard to have an opinion because mine would be kinda bias. i put mine in for pure convenience also. plus it comes with an O2 and A/F monitor. although that wont matter all that much once i get the boost controller....but it is nice to have i must say. having the option to just leave your car. plus in the summer its great to go into the post office and let it just run without fear of it being stolen while your a/c runs and when you get back its ice cold and then you can just take off. same for winter....but not a/c...heat. lol.

in summary....its nice to have.

p.s. im drinking my beer while you take a minute to sit in your car and diddle.

[justa4banger]

u just proved your self wrong in that statement....

"Show me the ducumentation." then you state, "...drive the last 30 seconds of your drive like you have a brain." So, what happens if you drive the car hard right up until you park it yet have no time to sit ... a turbo timer would come in handy.
NOt everyone has the same driving habits, therefore, some people might find a good use for a TT and yet others who relax the throttle the last few minutes of driving don't need to.

don't be rude and obnoxious and say something like this. People mod for different reasons.


Once in a while isn't going to hurt it, i doubt anyone drives like a bat out of hell every single momment in their MS3. even if they did the turbo will STILL out last the original purchaser, unless you keep it 10+years.
Look if people want to have a timer by all means go ahead, its your money. to say its necessary or even conivient ....well IMO its a waste of gas. turbo vehicles have been around for a long time and they don't just fail from hard driving and not cooling the car down. main cause for turbo failure is either the airfilter is dirty/missing and debris get into it, or lack of proper oil changes. If you are the type of driver thats drivers hard and doesn't let the turbo cool, then i suggest just changing the oil a little sooner each interval.


As for the greddy copy/pasted page........... what do you expect they have to market their products. do they have any statistics on how much longer your turbo will live?

I never come on this site intentionallly trying to slam an idea, and if i know the answer i'll help. I do see ALOT of misinformation on this site, especially regarding turbo systems. Some are very knowledgable and so are the vendors, but the majority just haven't learned it yet. i admit i'm a sarcastic asshole sometimes. I do try to spread GOOD reasonable information about turbos and thier systems. I'm not an expert by any means, and i would question anyone who claims to know it all, but i have a great deal of knowledge with my other hobby car and 95% of it applies here. I have learned as much as i have giving info out.

[Betelgeuse]

Once in a while isn't going to hurt it, i doubt anyone drives like a bat out of hell every single momment in their MS3. even if they did the turbo will STILL out last the original purchaser, unless you keep it 10+years.
Look if people want to have a timer by all means go ahead, its your money. to say its necessary or even conivient ....well IMO its a waste of gas. turbo vehicles have been around for a long time and they don't just fail from hard driving and not cooling the car down. main cause for turbo failure is either the airfilter is dirty/missing and debris get into it, or lack of proper oil changes. If you are the type of driver thats drivers hard and doesn't let the turbo cool, then i suggest just changing the oil a little sooner each interval.


As for the greddy copy/pasted page........... what do you expect they have to market their products. do they have any statistics on how much longer your turbo will live?

I never come on this site intentionallly trying to slam an idea, and if i know the answer i'll help. I do see ALOT of misinformation on this site, especially regarding turbo systems. Some are very knowledgable and so are the vendors, but the majority just haven't learned it yet. i admit i'm a sarcastic asshole sometimes. I do try to spread GOOD reasonable information about turbos and thier systems. I'm not an expert by any means, and i would question anyone who claims to know it all, but i have a great deal of knowledge with my other hobby car and 95% of it applies here. I have learned as much as i have giving info out.


There's a page in the owner's manual dedicated to turbo maintenance and it states clearly that damage can occur if the turbo is worked hard and not cooled sufficiently before turning off the motor. A turbo timer is cheap and convenient for those who prefer to play it safe and idle their cars. For someone like you it'll be a waste.

[allmotor95pgt]

if i remember correctly the manual that came with the car it says to let the car idle for 30 sec before shuting it of.

[mazdaspeed32007]

if i remember correctly the manual that came with the car it says to let the car idle for 30 sec before shuting it of.

sir....you are correct. thats what made me get mine to begin with. i got it off a buddy for like...50 bucks so im not stretching the bank by all means. i like it. it comes in handy and IMO, as Martha always says, "It's a good thing." and on that note, we cue the music. i leave you with a funny smiley. (humpleg)

[SPEEDYONE]

i know this is an old post but i have a question before i install mine..

Does the security system in the gt model affect the tt? I know the install above was performed on a sport model.. Thanks..thought id post this to help people out as recently wev had quite a few people having problems with bios

all the beep codes are different depending of who makes the bios , but here are some of the more common ones

What is a BIOS Beep Code?
When you power on a computer the BIOS immediately takes control of the computer and performs the P.O.S.T (Power On Self Test). At the end of the POST the computer will play an audible 'BEEP' through either the PC's internal speaker of through speakers attached to the sound card (if you have a built-in sound chip). If the POST completed successfully without detecting any problems with then system will play a single short beep to let you know the test is complete and the computer will continue to startup and load the operating system.
If during the POST the BIOS detects a problem it will normally display a visual error message on the monitor explaining what the problem is. However, if a problem is detected before the BIOS initializes the video card, or a video card is not present or not detected then the BIOS will play several 'BEEPS' through the speaker to let you know there is a problem. Depending on the type of the BIOS you have the BIOS may play beeps in a specific pattern to indicate what the problem is, or play the same beep a number of times indicating the problem. It is very important that you pay close attention to the number and/or pattern of the beeps your computer plays on startup.


Below is a table of the most common AMI, Phoenix and Award BIOS beep codes.

AMI (American Megatrends International) BIOS Beep Codes.
AMI BIOS uses beeps of the same length and pitch. The error is displayed as a number of beeps. For example, 4 beeps indicated a timer failure.
BEEP CODE MEANING POSSIBLE CAUSE
1 Beep (No video) Memory refresh failure Bad memory
2 Beeps Memory parity error Bad memory
3 Beeps Base 64K mem failure Bad memory
4 Beeps Timer not operational Bad motherboard
5 Beeps Processor error Bad processor
6 Beeps 8042 Gate A20 failure Bad CPU or Motherboard
7 Beeps Processor exception Bad processor
8 Beeps Video memory error Bad video card or memory
9 Beeps ROM checksum error Bad BIOS
10 Beeps CMOS checksum error Bad motherboard
11 Beeps Cache memory bad Bad CPU or motherboard



Award BIOS Beep Codes
Award BIOS uses beeps of varying duration. A long beep will typically last for 2 seconds while a short beep will last only 1 second. Award BIOS also uses beeps of different frequency to indicate critical errors. If an Award BIOS detects that the CPU is overheating it may play a high pitched repeating beep while the computer is running.
BEEP CODE MEANING POSSIBLE CAUSE
1 Long, 2 Short Video adapter failure Bad video adapter
Repeating (Endless loop) Memory error Bad memory or bad connection
1 Long, 3 Short Video adapter failure Bad video adapter or memory
High freq. beeps (while running) CPU is overheating CPU fan failure
Repeating High, Low beeps CPU failure Bad processor



Phoenix BIOS Beep Codes
Phoenix BIOS uses beep code patterns to indicate problems. In the table below the '-' indicates a brief pause between beeps.
Example: 1 - 1 - 2 would sound like BEEP <pause> BEEP <pause> BEEP BEEP

BEEP CODE MEANING POSSIBLE CAUSE
1 - 1 - 2 CPU / motherboard failure Bad CPU / motherboard
1 - 1 - 3 CMOS read/write failure Bad motherboard
1 - 1 - 4 BIOS ROM failure Bad BIOS chip
1 - 2 - 1 Timer failure Bad motherboard
1 - 2 - 2 DMA failure Bad motherboard
1 - 2 - 3 DMA failure Bad motherboard
1 - 3 - 1 Memory refresh failure Bad memory
1 - 3 - 2 64K memory failure Bad memory
1 - 3 - 3 64K memory failure Bad memory
1 - 3 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
1 - 4 - 1 Address line failure Bad memory
1 - 4 - 2 Parity error Bad memory
1 - 4 - 3 Timer failure Bad motherboard
1 - 4 - 4 NMI port failure Bad motherboard
2 - 1 - 1 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 1 - 2 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 1 - 3 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 1 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 2 - 1 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 2 - 2 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 2 - 3 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 2 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 3 - 1 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 3 - 2 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 3 - 3 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 3 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 4 - 1 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 4 - 2 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 4 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 4 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
3 - 1 - 1 Slave DMA failure Bad motherboard
3 - 1 - 2 Master DMA failure Bad motherboard
3 - 1 - 3 Interrupt controller failure Bad motherboard
3 - 1 -4 Slave IC failure Bad motherboard
3 - 2 -2 Interrupt Controller failure Bad motherboard
3 - 2 - 3 <RESERVED>
3 - 2 - 4 Keyboard control failure Bad motherboard
3 - 3 - 1 CMOS batter failure Bad CMOS battery
3 - 3 - 2 CMOS configuration error Incorrect setting
3 - 3 - 3 <RESERVED>
3 - 3 - 4 Video memory failure Bad video card or memory
3 - 4 - 1 Video init failure Bad video card or memory
4 - 2 - 1 Timer failure Bad motherboard
4 - 2 - 2 CMOS shutdown failure Bad motherboard
4 - 2 - 3 Gate A20 failure Bad motherboard
4 - 2 - 4 Unexpected interrupt Bad processor
4 - 3 - 1 RAM test failure Bad memory
4 - 3 - 3 Timer failure Bad motherboard
4 - 3 - 4 RTC failure Bad motherboard
4 - 4 - 1 Serial port failure Bad motherboard
4 - 4 - 2 Parallel port failure Bad motherboard
4 - 4 - 3 Coprocessor failure Bad motherboard or CPU.
9 - 2 - 1 Video adapter incompatibility Use a different brand of video cardthought id post this to help people out as recently wev had quite a few people having problems with bios

all the beep codes are different depending of who makes the bios , but here are some of the more common ones

What is a BIOS Beep Code?
When you power on a computer the BIOS immediately takes control of the computer and performs the P.O.S.T (Power On Self Test). At the end of the POST the computer will play an audible 'BEEP' through either the PC's internal speaker of through speakers attached to the sound card (if you have a built-in sound chip). If the POST completed successfully without detecting any problems with then system will play a single short beep to let you know the test is complete and the computer will continue to startup and load the operating system.
If during the POST the BIOS detects a problem it will normally display a visual error message on the monitor explaining what the problem is. However, if a problem is detected before the BIOS initializes the video card, or a video card is not present or not detected then the BIOS will play several 'BEEPS' through the speaker to let you know there is a problem. Depending on the type of the BIOS you have the BIOS may play beeps in a specific pattern to indicate what the problem is, or play the same beep a number of times indicating the problem. It is very important that you pay close attention to the number and/or pattern of the beeps your computer plays on startup.


Below is a table of the most common AMI, Phoenix and Award BIOS beep codes.

AMI (American Megatrends International) BIOS Beep Codes.
AMI BIOS uses beeps of the same length and pitch. The error is displayed as a number of beeps. For example, 4 beeps indicated a timer failure.
BEEP CODE MEANING POSSIBLE CAUSE
1 Beep (No video) Memory refresh failure Bad memory
2 Beeps Memory parity error Bad memory
3 Beeps Base 64K mem failure Bad memory
4 Beeps Timer not operational Bad motherboard
5 Beeps Processor error Bad processor
6 Beeps 8042 Gate A20 failure Bad CPU or Motherboard
7 Beeps Processor exception Bad processor
8 Beeps Video memory error Bad video card or memory
9 Beeps ROM checksum error Bad BIOS
10 Beeps CMOS checksum error Bad motherboard
11 Beeps Cache memory bad Bad CPU or motherboard



Award BIOS Beep Codes
Award BIOS uses beeps of varying duration. A long beep will typically last for 2 seconds while a short beep will last only 1 second. Award BIOS also uses beeps of different frequency to indicate critical errors. If an Award BIOS detects that the CPU is overheating it may play a high pitched repeating beep while the computer is running.
BEEP CODE MEANING POSSIBLE CAUSE
1 Long, 2 Short Video adapter failure Bad video adapter
Repeating (Endless loop) Memory error Bad memory or bad connection
1 Long, 3 Short Video adapter failure Bad video adapter or memory
High freq. beeps (while running) CPU is overheating CPU fan failure
Repeating High, Low beeps CPU failure Bad processor



Phoenix BIOS Beep Codes
Phoenix BIOS uses beep code patterns to indicate problems. In the table below the '-' indicates a brief pause between beeps.
Example: 1 - 1 - 2 would sound like BEEP <pause> BEEP <pause> BEEP BEEP

BEEP CODE MEANING POSSIBLE CAUSE
1 - 1 - 2 CPU / motherboard failure Bad CPU / motherboard
1 - 1 - 3 CMOS read/write failure Bad motherboard
1 - 1 - 4 BIOS ROM failure Bad BIOS chip
1 - 2 - 1 Timer failure Bad motherboard
1 - 2 - 2 DMA failure Bad motherboard
1 - 2 - 3 DMA failure Bad motherboard
1 - 3 - 1 Memory refresh failure Bad memory
1 - 3 - 2 64K memory failure Bad memory
1 - 3 - 3 64K memory failure Bad memory
1 - 3 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
1 - 4 - 1 Address line failure Bad memory
1 - 4 - 2 Parity error Bad memory
1 - 4 - 3 Timer failure Bad motherboard
1 - 4 - 4 NMI port failure Bad motherboard
2 - 1 - 1 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 1 - 2 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 1 - 3 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 1 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 2 - 1 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 2 - 2 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 2 - 3 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 2 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 3 - 1 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 3 - 2 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 3 - 3 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 3 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 4 - 1 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 4 - 2 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 4 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
2 - 4 - 4 64K memory failure Bad memory
3 - 1 - 1 Slave DMA failure Bad motherboard
3 - 1 - 2 Master DMA failure Bad motherboard
3 - 1 - 3 Interrupt controller failure Bad motherboard
3 - 1 -4 Slave IC failure Bad motherboard
3 - 2 -2 Interrupt Controller failure Bad motherboard
3 - 2 - 3 <RESERVED>
3 - 2 - 4 Keyboard control failure Bad motherboard
3 - 3 - 1 CMOS batter failure Bad CMOS battery
3 - 3 - 2 CMOS configuration error Incorrect setting
3 - 3 - 3 <RESERVED>
3 - 3 - 4 Video memory failure Bad video card or memory
3 - 4 - 1 Video init failure Bad video card or memory
4 - 2 - 1 Timer failure Bad motherboard
4 - 2 - 2 CMOS shutdown failure Bad motherboard
4 - 2 - 3 Gate A20 failure Bad motherboard
4 - 2 - 4 Unexpected interrupt Bad processor
4 - 3 - 1 RAM test failure Bad memory
4 - 3 - 3 Timer failure Bad motherboard
4 - 3 - 4 RTC failure Bad motherboard
4 - 4 - 1 Serial port failure Bad motherboard
4 - 4 - 2 Parallel port failure Bad motherboard
4 - 4 - 3 Coprocessor failure Bad motherboard or CPU.
9 - 2 - 1 Video adapter incompatibility Use a different brand of video card

[xdayounggx5]

Ok i recently installed a MBC n boost gauage...instead of puting the gauage on n checking stock booost..i installed the controler..so now im pondering on exactly how much stock boost is on the car...if someone could quickly help me out i would appreciate it...

cause then otherwise i gotta tak it off n drive n i dont feel like it =)

[mrlilguy157]

i know this is an old post but i have a question before i install mine..

Does the security system in the gt model affect the tt? I know the install above was performed on a sport model.. Thanks..

i hope it doesnt cause i have the gt and im going to install in the next few days.

[numbnuts22715]

i hope it doesnt cause i have the gt and im going to install in the next few days.

I believe you have to splice a few extra wires or something like that. I dont think itll let the doors lock with it running or something like that. I'm not entirely sure, try it and let us know!

[matsuda]

For those that use turbo timers: What do you have against synthetic oil?

[Haltech]

For those that use turbo timers: What do you have against synthetic oil?

(headshake

[AzMz3]

i know this is an old post but i have a question before i install mine..

Does the security system in the gt model affect the tt? I know the install above was performed on a sport model.. Thanks..

I have the Apexi TT on my 08 MS3 GT and everything is just like it was stock.
You only need to tap into 2 wires on the column instead of 3.
2 wires on the TT will tap into the same 12V constant wire in the column. And the other will tap into an Ignition wire in the column.
On the Apexi TT red and blue wire tapped into the 12V constant (red)
Green tapped into Ignition (Green/Yellow)

I'm pretty sure the colors are the same for both TT's but I would double check it.

[mrlilguy157]

I have the Apexi TT on my 08 MS3 GT and everything is just like it was stock.
You only need to tap into 2 wires on the column instead of 3.
2 wires on the TT will tap into the same 12V constant wire in the column. And the other will tap into an Ignition wire in the column.
On the Apexi TT red and blue wire tapped into the 12V constant (red)
Green tapped into Ignition (Green/Yellow)

I'm pretty sure the colors are the same for both TT's but I would double check it.

Thanks for affirming this. I'll be installing mine in the next few days, and hopefully will be getting more toys in by the end of the week ;)

[jflo]

installed my old blitz fatt dcII.

i used the black/red for 12V constant. does that make a difference if i didn't use the red wire?

also, once the timer counts down and turns off, driver's door unlocks. anyone know how i can stop that from happening? (attn)

[mrlilguy157]

installed my old blitz fatt dcII.

i used the black/red for 12V constant. does that make a difference if i didn't use the red wire?

also, once the timer counts down and turns off, driver's door unlocks. anyone know how i can stop that from happening? (attn)

thats lame.... :(

[SPEEDYONE]

Just installed my greddy today with the aforementioned method of install on my ms3 GT and noticed that you cant lock the doors with the key fob. You can unlock the doors with the fob, but in order to lock the door you need to press the button on the inside.

[mrlilguy157]

Just installed my greddy today with the aforementioned method of install on my ms3 GT and noticed that you cant lock the doors with the key fob. You can unlock the doors with the fob, but in order to lock the door you need to press the button on the inside.

ditto, no biggy

[numbnuts22715]

I have the Apexi TT on my 08 MS3 GT and everything is just like it was stock.
You only need to tap into 2 wires on the column instead of 3.
2 wires on the TT will tap into the same 12V constant wire in the column. And the other will tap into an Ignition wire in the column.
On the Apexi TT red and blue wire tapped into the 12V constant (red)
Green tapped into Ignition (Green/Yellow)

I'm pretty sure the colors are the same for both TT's but I would double check it.

So you cna arm the alarm and eveyrthing while the car is running?
That's news to me, I may have to pick one of these up.

[AzMz3]

So you cna arm the alarm and eveyrthing while the car is running?
That's news to me, I may have to pick one of these up.

Yeap, works just like it did without the TT.
At first I thought it didn't work when I tested it. The key Fob will not look the doors if a door is open and I had the driver door open. After shutting the door it worked perfectly.

[mrlilguy157]

Yeap, works just like it did without the TT.
At first I thought it didn't work when I tested it. The key Fob will not look the doors if a door is open and I had the driver door open. After shutting the door it worked perfectly.

while the car was running?????

[AzMz3]

while the car was running?????


Yes, the keyfob would not let me lock the doors with the door open and car running with the TT.
After shutting the door with the car running with the TT I could then lock the doors/unlock the doors with the key fob.

[ElBartoRex]

if i remember correctly the manual that came with the car it says to let the car idle for 30 sec before shuting it of.

a turbo timer obsolete on a modern water cooled turbocharger.

as described in the Mazda3 Quick Tips Guide:

"After driving at freeway speeds or up a long hill, idle engine at least 30 seconds to cool turbo, avoid shutting engine off after a hard or long drive, turbocharger damage may result otherwise."

Mazda is the only company that thinks so low of its consumers that they NEED to write something like this in the Quick Tips brochure. They are just covering their asses with this statement to save themselves from dumbasses who blow their turbos by being, well, dumbasses.. How many thousands of subaru WRXs are out there running around with 100k-200k on their clocks, beating the crap out of their oil/watercooled turbos, running every day without a turbo timer..plenty- and I challenge you to find me someone who has conclusively had their turbo fail due to not letting cool properly.

"But the book says you HAVE to get one!!"

You know what else the book says?

(also taken from the Mazda Quick Tips Pamphlet)

"Do NOT add aftermarket devices to alter the engine's ignition, fuel delivery, or turbo boost pressure, this may lead to serious engine damage and void your warranty"

So I guess all you guys with turbo timers are gonna remove all your turbobacks, boost controllers, intakes and boost cut defenders now, right? I mean...the book says you have to!! Right?

[AzMz3]

a turbo timer obsolete on a modern water cooled turbocharger.

as described in the Mazda3 Quick Tips Guide:

"After driving at freeway speeds or up a long hill, idle engine at least 30 seconds to cool turbo, avoid shutting engine off after a hard or long drive, turbocharger damage may result otherwise."

Mazda is the only company that thinks so low of its consumers that they NEED to write something like this in the Quick Tips brochure. They are just covering their asses with this statement to save themselves from dumbasses who blow their turbos by being, well, dumbasses.. How many thousands of subaru WRXs are out there running around with 100k-200k on their clocks, beating the crap out of their oil/watercooled turbos, running every day without a turbo timer..plenty- and I challenge you to find me someone who has conclusively had their turbo fail due to not letting cool properly.

"But the book says you HAVE to get one!!"

You know what else the book says?

(also taken from the Mazda Quick Tips Pamphlet)

"Do NOT add aftermarket devices to alter the engine's ignition, fuel delivery, or turbo boost pressure, this may lead to serious engine damage and void your warranty"

So I guess all you guys with turbo timers are gonna remove all your turbobacks, boost controllers, intakes and boost cut defenders now, right? I mean...the book says you have to!! Right?


I know quite a few highly modified turbo cars and all have some form of TT on them.
If you don't feel it is nessecary than don't get one, no one is making you or telling you should. I have had one on both turbo cars and use them when needed where it be a long highway drive or at the track.
The synthetic oil and water cooled will not prevent a damaged turbo, they only prolong it just like a TT.

[ElBartoRex]

My point is everyone wants to pull up their little book and justify the ~$200 they spent on buying/installing a turbo timer as a safety issue, when the book also says to never let your tank get below 1/4 full and also to never add any aftermarket parts to the car.. all credibility is out the window with those statements.

A turbo timer looks cool, beeps, and lets you sleep a little better at night..thats about it.

[AzMz3]

My point is everyone wants to pull up their little book and justify the ~$200 they spent on buying/installing a turbo timer as a safety issue, when the book also says to never let your tank get below 1/4 full and also to never add any aftermarket parts to the car.. all credibility is out the window with those statements.

A turbo timer looks cool, beeps, and lets you sleep a little better at night..thats about it.

I have one and never used the book as a reason to justify it. It justifies itself when I don't have to sit there and let the car cool down. I can poop the hood and get some fries and a Coke at the drag strip or I can be at the gas station on the way to Vegas getting a Pepsi while the TT does it thing. Yes I could wait in the car and save $100...yeah they cost about $100 not $200, but why?

I can never get anyone telling someone else they don't need one or they are pointless....especially with little to no credibility!

Mine doesn't beep either.

[mrlilguy157]

mine was free99.

and for 80$ i would buy it too.

[crystalmeth3]

I can poop the hood and get some fries and a Coke at the drag strip

(eek2)
we need a how-to write up with pics










j/k

[sierra248]

AzMz3, I got the Small Apexi TT for christmas from my brother is this the same one you have?

http://www.apexi-usa.com/graphics/products/1981.jpg

I plan on doing mine this weekend, This is how you said to hook it up correct?

I have the Apexi TT on my 08 MS3 GT and everything is just like it was stock.
You only need to tap into 2 wires on the column instead of 3.
2 wires on the TT will tap into the same 12V constant wire in the column. And the other will tap into an Ignition wire in the column.
On the Apexi TT red and blue wire tapped into the 12V constant (red)
Green tapped into Ignition (Green/Yellow)

Your alarm and everything still works same? Our cars you cant arm the alarm with a door open anyway, So that would be same4.

Thanks for you write up, seems like a pretty straight forward install, Did you use the included Snap on Wire Taps to tap into the wires or did you strip and solder them?
Thanks again
Tom

[AzMz3]

AzMz3, I got the Small Apexi TT for christmas from my brother is this the same one you have?

http://www.apexi-usa.com/graphics/products/1981.jpg

I plan on doing mine this weekend, This is how you said to hook it up correct?

I have the Apexi TT on my 08 MS3 GT and everything is just like it was stock.
You only need to tap into 2 wires on the column instead of 3.
2 wires on the TT will tap into the same 12V constant wire in the column. And the other will tap into an Ignition wire in the column.
On the Apexi TT red and blue wire tapped into the 12V constant (red)
Green tapped into Ignition (Green/Yellow)

Your alarm and everything still works same? Our cars you cant arm the alarm with a door open anyway, So that would be same4.

Thanks for you write up, seems like a pretty straight forward install, Did you use the included Snap on Wire Taps to tap into the wires or did you strip and solder them?
Thanks again
Tom

Yeap thats the same one I have but mine is black.
I can't take credit for the write up as I didn't figure it out just tried to make it as simple as possible.

Herb

[sierra248]

Cool thanks, so it all works good, no issues?
Tom

[AzMz3]

Cool thanks, so it all works good, no issues?
Tom


Yeap, works great.

[sierra248]

Thanks again for your help AzMz3, gonna be an easy install now. Did you install the O2 sensor wires?
Tom

[AzMz3]

Thanks again for your help AzMz3, gonna be an easy install now. Did you install the O2 sensor wires?
Tom


No. Not too crazy about tapping into the stock o2sensor wires.
I have seen people use the Apexi as a true w/b gauge with the use of the Innovate LC-1 wideband controller. I might use that option later as I don't want too many gauges visible on this car.