Stutter Issue; 2300 in 5th & 6th

[dadasracecar]

So I’ve had this weird semi-violent stutter around 2300rpm in 5th and 6th since owning the car. I started really noticing it after installing the standback on the stock car (boost set at 16 psi). I was just noticing it more though as I was hyperobservant. Several experiments putting it back to stock with the bypass plug indicated that the stutter was there. The stutter to which I’m referring was under partial or WOT. I’ll be accelerating to merge onto the highway in 5th or 6th from about 2K rpm and as the rpms climb to about 2300 or so there’s a sharp hesitation and then it continues to accelerate. You can hear the bov blowing off. Otherwise the car drives normally.
I mentioned this long ago to Jordan and he suggested I datalog it. I could never capture the event as it was very irregular and didn’t occur all that often. After the DP install however I have been noticing it with much more consistency. I can generally make the stutter happen at will now. I upped the boost to 17 after the DP and thought that may have had something to do with it but dropping it back to 16 I could still make it happen this morning.
I have two theories about the event. 1st is that the camdriven high pressure fuel pump is unable to deliver the required fuel for 17 psi at 2280 rpm and I’m getting a lean spot-detonation-fuel cut situation. 2nd is that the ecu was programmed using some sort of graphical interface that modulated multiple variables to achieve the desire power curve and this is just a glitch.
I datalogged the event finally one morning – actually caught it five times. Here are the plots. If you want the raw data to look at you can pm me your email address and I’ll send the excel file. Don’t ask about plotting vs RPM b/c the RPM fluctuates and would cause the curves to loop over themselves making it even more difficult to read.
Looking at the actual data it seems that there are significant drops in the MAF voltage which is how I picked the rpm where the even took place. Time= 951.3, RPM=2291; Time= 974.7, RPM=2291; Time= 1002.6, RPM=2284; Time= 1033.7, RPM=2226; Time= 1093.7, RPM=2275. The RPM value immediately before each of the rpm values above are 2274, 2278, 2275, 2284, and 2263. You can see that the event is very repeatable. The MAF voltage drops sharply at each of these time/rpm points. The drops are 0.11, 0.86, 1.01, 1.00, and 0.47 V, respectively. Immediately following the voltage pops right back to something similar to what it was before and is after. The injector duty cycle and pulse width both go down at the corresponding points which makes me wonder about theory 1. I would expect that if it was running out of fuel, the PW would go up. That doesn’t happen. The TPS is pretty stable to me and doesn’t look to be a player in whole thing. The ignition timing goes way up immediately following the event which seems like the lean burn cruising condition of direct injection engines.
Going on theory 1, I added a point to the fuel tables at this rpm from 2.4 to 3.3 V on the TPS and took out a degree of timing at the same places. I was still getting the stutter so I added two points to the fuel. Still there. I think it’s a little more muted but it’s hard to say for sure. The fuel didn’t seem to do much but I’m mostly in closed loop so I wouldn’t think it would do that much – though I have my doubts about whether this car ever goes into to open loop. I’d appreciate any other hypotheses that anyone might have. It’s a pretty annoying condition. Here are the datalogs. These are closeups of the time slices where the stutter occurs. PM me if you'd like the data. I'd really appreciate some help on this.

115684

115685

115686

115687

115688

[dadasracecar]

Here's the graph of the whole run. I could only upload 5 files with the original post.
115690

[mazdaspeed32007]

im no expert when it comes to this shit but it seems when you hit the gas at those lower rpms it stutters. this could be to much load on the turbo in your last two gears while you going to slow. if your going 50 and hit it into 5th or 6th and slam the gas you creating a shit load of load on the turbo making it stutter. just my 2 cents though. like i said, just speculation. make sure you downshift when your hitting the gas at low rpms. keep your rpms around 2800-3000 if your going to hit the gas with boost. to low and your just overloading your turbo.

[dadasracecar]

Thing is, it does it under partial throttle or WOT. It's not really a matter of "slamming on the gas." From 2K-2.5K in 6th is 55-65 mph, IIRC. That's sort of normal acceleration to merge on the highway. I'm not really trying to create a problem. I've noticed this stutter under normal driving and have experimented to isolate exactly when it occurs. Also, if you look at the graphs, I've already hit max boost prior to the event. I'm set at 17 psi and have the CPE FMIC so I'm not taxing the turbo. If anything it's working less than it did stock... It is spooling faster than stock though which is why I'm wondering if the fuel pump can't keep up. Lean, knock, fuel cut, etc...

[mazdaspeed32007]

didnt notice you had the FMIC until you said so. i didnt read your sig. i dont know man. thats the only explanation i can think of. seems that under max boost your car stutters in 5th or 6th at 2000-2500 is a cause from the turbos inability to take the load thats getting put on it so it putts and burps until it gets itself righted. thats only 1 hypothesis though. maybe someone else can help a little more and hopefully know what the problem IS and not guess. good luck man. i hope all works out.

[BoostedSpd6]

i would say get it tuned.. then see what happens.. is anything else irregular that you datalogged.. im thinking its the fuel pump as well. and the motor is pulling timing and leaning out and giving u fuel cut when u put alot of load on the turbo...maybe an ATP fuel cut defender might help u out.

[aTriz]

Fuel pump FTL!

[Gandalf]

i would say get it tuned.. then see what happens.. is anything else irregular that you datalogged.. im thinking its the fuel pump as well. and the motor is pulling timing and leaning out and giving u fuel cut when u put alot of load on the turbo...maybe an ATP fuel cut defender might help u out.

But don't those graphs show the car actually ADDING a ton of timing during the "event" ?

[dadasracecar]

From the way I see it, the timing advance happens immediately after the event. If I'm not mistaken, DI engines advance the timing way up when they are in lean burn mode for cruising. If the car thought there was no gas it would move to advance the timing for this reason.

[BoostedSpd6]

try the fuel cut defender there only 75 bucks.. see where u stand after that.

[cherryspeed]

try the fuel cut defender there only 75 bucks.. see where u stand after that.

He is fully tuned using a dyno and the cpe standback.

[BoostedSpd6]

ooo ok.. yeah dont buy the fuel cut defender it wont solve the problem.. i didnt see that u had the standback, the fuel cut defender wont work with it..man im at a loss for why this is happening..

[Afroman]

When your car is studdering, do you hear a wierd clicking /metallic clicking sound.

My car is bone stock, but under similar conditions( except at 3000 RPMs) I experience studdering, power loss and a clicking sound. Once I let off the gas it stops completely.


Maybe with your upgrades it happens at lower RPMS.

[mazdaspeed32007]

not that im saying that the clicking noises are this but it might be the injectors.... i was told from the speed tech in my area that the DI makes some killer noise sometimes compared to other cars because they either want to be open or closed...??? that might have something to do with the studdering also since it is the fuel. also on another thread somebody found out that in accordance with rpms around 2500 the throttle position on the car tends to drop down to about i believe it was 50% until the boost is at full....so maybe some timing issues within your ecu are fucking up??? i dont know...just throwing shit out there....

[Gandalf]

When your car is studdering, do you hear a wierd clicking /metallic clicking sound.

My car is bone stock, but under similar conditions( except at 3000 RPMs) I experience studdering, power loss and a clicking sound. Once I let off the gas it stops completely.


Maybe with your upgrades it happens at lower RPMS.

"Clicking" could very well be detonation.

[rodney]

the same thing happens to me everynow and then..its freakin wierd, it happens at lower rpms also, not sure exactly what rpms...but its like 2500-3000.

[Afroman]

"Clicking" could very well be detonation.



I dont think its that. I only put 93 octane in, nothing else ever.

I dont know if its my imigination, could it be the fuel pump clicking? Like On / Off / ON / Off..

Really no idea.

[ZUZOOM]

Same thing happened to me today. Merging onto highway in 5th and then all of a sudden shutter and "knocking" split second then back to normal. No engine light and no loss of power afterwards. I love this car. Hopefully nothing big.

[gte024h]

Same here. I have a bone stock 07 model and between 3-4K RPM's usually shifting from 4th to 5th it will stutter and click. Happens a couple of times a month for me. If it stays that way I think I'll be OK. I think that enough people have reported this problem that we can rule out a manufacturing defect or aftermarket part cause. It's probably a design flaw... good luck finding a solution though.

[funkytuqe]

Yes, i too have the same "stutter" at approximately 2500RPM or so. Motor is stock, happens once in a while and kind of annoying when it does. I thought the CPE standback would have solved the issue but apparently not. I guess I will wait a bit on purchasing one until this issue is resolved.

[Micaspd6]

On my SPD6 I now have this happening also. My boost was staying fairly low at the first changes I had made, SRI, muffler delete, and Forge BOV. I keep track of it with a Dashawk and now after about 500 miles the boost is creeping up some in spikes. Used to be around 17-17.5 and now closer to 20. When the higher gears are used this over boost last longer than in the lower gears and I think it is triggering boost cutout. I don't know what to do to prevent this but may try the lightest spring in the Forge to help relieve the excess pressure.

[Mr. S6]

Hey I'm Lucien and this is my first post, I'm experiencing the same stutter problem, I first nocited when my car was reflashed. It seemed the non brand gas made it worst. Since then I've been putting brand name gas (chevron, shell, etc..). When my car does it, it also pops black smoke. It happens sporadically and I haven't been able to figure out what the problem is. I took it again to the dealership and they reflashed the car again but didn't fix it.

Any leads?

Thanks.

[wannabe]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=130666

there was a TSB released for this issue. apparently theres a fuel pump issue.

[Zimmer]

I have this same stutter and I'm relatively stock. Its been more pronounced the last few months. I figured it was me getting used to a turbocar and the lag more severe however I can also do it at will its almost frustrating "rolling" onto the throttle in a high gear.

I remember buying the car thinking wow you can really step on it in 6th and the car goes now it "hiccups" There's another thread on hear subject line "hiccuped this morning" or something like that.

Wannabe... do the service depts correct/check these items on their own? I've been complaining about a rough idle which seems to be getting worse which correlates to the power hesitation getting worse. I'll have to ask about this.

[wannabe]

I have this same stutter and I'm relatively stock. Its been more pronounced the last few months. I figured it was me getting used to a turbocar and the lag more severe however I can also do it at will its almost frustrating "rolling" onto the throttle in a high gear.

I remember buying the car thinking wow you can really step on it in 6th and the car goes now it "hiccups" There's another thread on hear subject line "hiccuped this morning" or something like that.

Wannabe... do the service depts correct/check these items on their own? I've been complaining about a rough idle which seems to be getting worse which correlates to the power hesitation getting worse. I'll have to ask about this.

it doesn't hurt to bring the TSB with you. i had spoken to my service dept a while back on it, and mentioned the rough idle etc, and they "couldn't replicate" i gave them the TSB and they flashed it without question. it seemed to help, but i think i need the new fuel pump...i'm just too lazy to make another appt...

[Zimmer]

thanks. I'll bring it wasn't sure if I could. scheduled maintenance in about 500 miles so that'll be next week I hope. I'll check my VIN too to see if I fall in. new pump would be nice.

I'm not sure what goes on in the service dept. Not knockin them but a similar example I have a problem starting the car almost every other time. It stutters trying to start. and they tell me they can't replicate that so that one boggles me.

[Mr. S6]

Thank you Wanabe, this is great information and I will definetly take this TSB with me when I take it in for maintenance.

[chinhock]

I finally solved the stuttering problem on my car which has plagued me since I bought it. A friend of mine owns a performance shop and he told me that the gap of .051 with the stock plugs is excessive. He told me to regap them to between .028 and .030 for a starting point. THE STUTTERING IS GONE! I installed cobb ap and reflashed a new map and I'm in love with my car again.
I hope this works for you guys. Good Luck!

[Zimmer]

wow. Did you get new plugs like one-step colder? I was going to get some new plugs! This is a great find! I'm giong to try it out. I think the aftermarkets are gapped at ~.032?

Were they the original plugs? Was there any carbon build up/ sludge that could cause a crappy spark?

Just wondering if it was the cobb AP that fixed it or dirty plugs...

[Sport6]

Yeah nice discovery! I might have to try this.

As far as 1 step colder plugs, is it bad to go 1 step colder with only a CAI?

[chinhock]

I just reached 30,000 on the odometer and I decided to change my plugs. I replaced them with OEM, but I did not check the gap before installing them. The car seemed to have more pep and I was content with the tune up. The car would still stutter with quick shifts and wot, but overall it was acceptable. I then installed the cobb ap. I have a cpe downpipe and fujita cai. So I installed the map that used the fujita cai. The car felt like it had lost a few hundred pounds and it pulled hard. The stuttering however got exponentially worse. I could take off well if I pushed the accelerator like there was an egg under my foot, but any time I tried to get on it, the stuttering returned. I then uninstalled the AP and it drove acceptably. Then I removed the new stock plugs and there was carbon all around the ceramic and around the electrode like it was fouling. I checked the gap on the 1st plug and it was .061! I will always check the gap on plugs from now on. I regapped all of them to .028 and went for a test drive. The car drove beautifully, and I could not get it to stutter. I reinstalled the AP with the new map and ........ WOO HOO!!! Very smooth, much better boost pull, hard to drive slow with reservation. The car begs you to go faster. I will give the car more testing tomorrow, but at this point I'm a very happy camper.

[Zimmer]

wow man this is great info. The carbon build up was something I was wondering because I had mine cleaned and the car ran great and the stuttering has been progressively coming back. Keep us posted on the plugs with the smaller gap.

[bova80]

the stock gap on these cars is .028-.030. so its a no wonder you were stuttering so badly without gapping them. should have gone 1 step colder with some denso's

[chinhock]

I appreciate the advice bova80. In fact the Densos were on order before I discovered the gapping problem. I went to autozone and they told me that the stock gap was .051. They even wrote it on the box. I'm wondering if the computers have the wrong plug in the system. I did see him look under mazdaspeed 6, but they originally gave me a short plug and I brought back the original to get the right ones. BTW has anyone been having idling problems with the Densos?

[bova80]

no i don't have any problems, they are awesome and all came pre-gapped at .028

[mw007]

Hey guys, first post here.

Doesn't happen often, and my 2007 MS6 doesn't blow smoke or anything, but it does stutter pretty badly in 5th grear, and sometimes very lightly in 3rd.

So, do we recommend having the TSB fixed AND replacing the spark plugs?

[Gitt24_84]

Anybody know if they'll fix my car under warranty with this TSB even though I'm over the 50k mile warranty coverage?

[MShreve]

Did you get this problem figured out?

Not sure if anybody mentioned this yet (I only skimmed the thread), but I just went through a similar issue with stuttering. My MS6 had just about the same symptoms as yours...stuttered hard while accelerating or decelerating in the lower RPM's. My car sat at the dealership for a week while they tried to figure it out (apparently they weren't getting any diagnostics info). After replacing both fuel pumps they finally found that a sensor (don't remember the name) between the low pressure and high pressure fuel pumps had gone bad. Once they replaced it the stutter dissapeared.

Hope that helps.

[MShreve]

BTW, the stutter that I experienced was a slow stutter (low frequency). It almost felt like the DSC was wigging out and pulsing a brake.

[Zimmer]

can u find out the name of the sensor from the paperwork they provided?

[MShreve]

Yeah, I just found the paperwork.

The dealership notes were:

"...Fuel pressure is stable after replacement of the high pressure fuel pump. Surging continues. After talking to tech line and more testing we came to the conclusion that there was a bad front fuel ratio sensor. Installed a new upstream fuel ratio sensor (H02S11). Test drive turned out to be good, no variation of throttle and no surging detectable."

[Rutedown]

MShreve,
That's very interesting. Does anyone know where the fuel ration sensor is?

[xxcosixprendaxx]

Brought my MS6 in today with the service write up listed above, no questions asked they changed my sensor and I was good to go, hopefully no more stutters!!

[Zimmer]

Brought my MS6 in today with the service write up listed above, no questions asked they changed my sensor and I was good to go, hopefully no more stutters!!

great ... let us know.

[Rutedown]

Subbing

[wannabe]

any updates from those that have had the fuel ratio sensor changed?

[Rutedown]

Feedback please

[Zimmer]

Yeah, I just found the paperwork.

The dealership notes were:

"...Fuel pressure is stable after replacement of the high pressure fuel pump. Surging continues. After talking to tech line and more testing we came to the conclusion that there was a bad front fuel ratio sensor. Installed a new upstream fuel ratio sensor (H02S11). Test drive turned out to be good, no variation of throttle and no surging detectable."

Did Mazda complete any other work on your car that day?

[MShreve]

Did Mazda complete any other work on your car that day?

Yeah, that week anyway. They also took care of the clutch TSB and replaced both fuel pumps while troubleshooting the stutter problem. Why do you ask?

[MShreve]

BTW, my car has been driving great since this work was done.

[Alladin]

I have similar problems and all the dealership could do was reflash my ECU. It helped but the car still stutters on moderate acceleration and I hear it knocking or pinging when it stutters.

I've also noticed in gear 3-6 if I give it 1/4 throttle the car accelerates great and quick, but under full throttle it picks up much much slower and seems to bog a little.

Any of you had that happen?

[MShreve]

I've had that happen. As far as I know that issue is caused by a ping sensor that cuts the throttle input whenever a certain number of pings (pre-ignition) are detected. There is a reflash available to increase the number of pings before throttle cut.

Low octane fuel makes this worse. Unfortunately I'm one of the unlucky ones in that department. 92 octane is the highest available in Oregon.

I don't think this is related to what this thread is about, but I could be wrong.

[wannabe]

Yeah, that week anyway. They also took care of the clutch TSB and replaced both fuel pumps while troubleshooting the stutter problem. Why do you ask?


so, do we believe that this sensor fixed the issue then? or was it one of the other TSBs? did you have those done first and still had the problem?

we are trying to figure out exactly which part fixed your problem, so it can be used to fix ours ;)

[MShreve]

so, do we believe that this sensor fixed the issue then? or was it one of the other TSBs? did you have those done first and still had the problem?

we are trying to figure out exactly which part fixed your problem, so it can be used to fix ours ;)

I smell what you're cookin. :)

I was up to date on all TSB's (except the clutch) when this problem fist started happening.

Just to be clear, I was NOT experiencing the common bog/lag/throttle-cut issue under WOT in high gears, but had a low frequency stuttering/surging problem in lower RPMs in most gears (not WOT).

[wannabe]

cool. thanks for the info.

[liquidflem]

Guys, very interesting.

I have been searching around for this "stuttering" problem that i noticed after installing my Cobb SF intake. I remembered reading this post:

"Hey I am a tech for a Mazda Dealership so far I have pulled off two of these little short cold air intakes. They cause a turbulance in the intake and MAF can't read correctly it will run fine unless you are hard at it the car will jerk a bit and give you a radom cyl misfire."

What i experience is mostly in 5th or 6th when going WOT. It basically feels like i get BOOST, little boost, BOOST, little boost. And you can really hear the turbo spooling up and down with this new intake while simultaneously feeling the car "surge". I don't remember having this problem with the stock intake, but i've only had this car a couple weeks and have been in getting used to a substantially faster car.

[FORZDA 1]

Guys, very interesting.

I have been searching around for this "stuttering" problem that i noticed after installing my Cobb SF intake. I remembered reading this post:

"Hey I am a tech for a Mazda Dealership ...........

When someone mentions they are a "tech" at a stealership, your first reaction should be to ignore and delete any information presented. You will be correct 99% of the time....

Ok, that said, there SHOULD be no problems associated with the Cobb SF intake, but your car may have some other issues that are aggravated when the OEM intake is removed. There are a few problems that can be attributed to the cold air intakes however. Is the car new or used?

[liquidflem]

Brand new. 1.5k Miles

[FORZDA 1]

Brand new. 1.5k Miles


Hmmm... Ok, If it was good before and weird after, it is likely something in the install. Did you do it or someone else?

How fast are you going (engine revs) when you floor it in 5th or 6th? If the engine is loaded up with lots of boost at low revs, you will get some problems like this.... It is difficult to diagnose from afar, so one of your local smart guys should take a look. You can keep taking it back to the dealer of course, since it is a new car.

[Rutedown]

liquidflem,
Try putting your stocker back on. You may be driving your car a little more aggressively since you have a Cobb intake on. If the stutter goes away then put the Cobb intake back on and check to make sure that your installing the Maf correctly.

[FORZDA 1]

liquidflem,
Try putting your stocker back on. You may be driving your car a little more aggressively since you have a Cobb intake on. If the stutter goes away then put the Cobb intake back on and check to make sure that your installing the Maf correctly.


Oh yeah, make sure you reset the ECU by pulling the fuse or removing the battery cable for ~15 sec or so.

[Zimmer]

hopefully you read back a few pages to read all the other possible reasons for this stutter. also flogging it at a low RPM in 5th or 6th at cruise speed is not always the best thing for your car.

[liquidflem]

Thanks for the replys guys,

I'm going to take the Cobb intake off tonight and see if it does it with the stock one. I installed it myself and and 95% sure its not an install problem, so we'll see. I removed the negative battery cable for the entire install.

I don't necessarily have to slam the gas for this to happen ( I DONT slam that gas at low RPM as i understand this isn't good for the car due to increased engine load and stress) - i can slowly let the revs go up to around 3.5k and then gradually press to WOT. Only happens in 5th and 6th. When it starts happening the car will continue to accelerate and this problem does not go away even at ~5K rpm. It's a very consistent problem that happens every time and feels like the boost pressure is varying by about the same amount (up down up down up down) all the way up the rev range.

Also can someone elaborate on this:
"Just to be clear, I was NOT experiencing the common bog/lag/throttle-cut issue under WOT in high gears."

[Zimmer]

I'm prob beating a dead horse but you checked all clamps for the intake piping?


Thanks for the replys guys,

I'm going to take the Cobb intake off tonight and see if it does it with the stock one. I installed it myself and and 95% sure its not an install problem, so we'll see. I removed the negative battery cable for the entire install.

I don't necessarily have to slam the gas for this to happen ( I DONT slam that gas at low RPM as i understand this isn't good for the car due to increased engine load and stress) - i can slowly let the revs go up to around 3.5k and then gradually press to WOT. Only happens in 5th and 6th. When it starts happening the car will continue to accelerate and this problem does not go away even at ~5K rpm. It's a very consistent problem that happens every time and feels like the boost pressure is varying by about the same amount (up down up down up down) all the way up the rev range.

Also can someone elaborate on this:
"Just to be clear, I was NOT experiencing the common bog/lag/throttle-cut issue under WOT in high gears."

[liquidflem]

Yeah I'm the kind of person that quadruple checks that kind of stuff before mark a task as finished. I'm really interested to see if this happens with the stock intake. I'll let you guys know tonight. It's just puzzling to me that it only happens in 5th or 6th.

Noah

[Zimmer]

let us know. to be honest i was skeptical that it was my intake but its been so damn cold all winter her in NE that I haven't had time. I've resolved that for the time being with new denso's but i've been keeping an eye on it.

[MShreve]

Also can someone elaborate on this:
"Just to be clear, I was NOT experiencing the common bog/lag/throttle-cut issue under WOT in high gears."

I was referring to all the other posts/threads with people slamming WOT at lower RPM's in 5th and 6th gear (with low octane fuel?) and then complaining about the results. (rlaugh)

[liquidflem]

I installed the original factory airbox today.

It doesn't seem to exhibit this fluxuation in boost pressure in 5th and 6th. I have to say though that the car feels like it has a lot less power and pull with this original intake compared to the Cobb SFI. I'm kind of amazed that i noticed such a large difference - it seems to pull less in all gears. I guess i will put the Cobb intake back on then (confused).

Another unrelated question - i was told by Mazda that if i installed an aftermarket intake - it would void certain warranties... how can they do this?!?!

[liquidflem]

Put the Cobb SRI back on and noticed instant power - no weird boost pressure fluctuation this time - no idea why not. Oh well, im happy :)

[mw007]

Has anyone had this issue and had it fixed by a dealer? If so, are you on the east coast? If so, what dealer did you go to?

I'm having the stutter / hestitation / lack of power. It's getting more regular, but by no means can I reproduce it reliably. I've taken the car to 3 speed dealerships, and all have made me take a test drive. Whaddya know, the car has no issues with the tech in the car.

This has been going on for more than a year now. Are there any dealerships out there that will just fix the issue before it gets worse?

Thanks,
Dave

[Super Shredder]

my powerloss problems, which i consider similar to what you and others are explaining, was solved by upgrading to an aftermarket BOV. I experienced minor acceleration powerloss before my mods (which was only about 6k miles ago) but after i upgraded to cobb, there was definite boost leak from the stock bpv, after replacing the BPV ALL of my acceleration problems dissapeared. i thought it may have been my spark plugs as well, but pretty much everything that i considered wrong about my car went away, and i guess when i replace my spark plugs i will get some noticeable gains if i consider my car running well at this point.

[Zimmer]

Has anyone had this issue and had it fixed by a dealer? If so, are you on the east coast? If so, what dealer did you go to?

I'm having the stutter / hestitation / lack of power. It's getting more regular, but by no means can I reproduce it reliably. I've taken the car to 3 speed dealerships, and all have made me take a test drive. Whaddya know, the car has no issues with the tech in the car.

This has been going on for more than a year now. Are there any dealerships out there that will just fix the issue before it gets worse?

Thanks,
Dave

There is a TSB for the fuel pump supposedly fixes the problems you've identified. I have it done but I don't think it fixed my issue. The only time I've felt I've ridden myself of this problem is new / cleaned plugs.

[liquidflem]

There is a TSB for the fuel pump supposedly fixes the problems you've identified. I have it done but I don't think it fixed my issue. The only time I've felt I've ridden myself of this problem is new / cleaned plugs.

For what year car?

[Zimmer]

For what year car?

2007

[tunersteve]

Has anyone had this issue and had it fixed by a dealer? If so, are you on the east coast? If so, what dealer did you go to?

I'm having the stutter / hestitation / lack of power. It's getting more regular, but by no means can I reproduce it reliably. I've taken the car to 3 speed dealerships, and all have made me take a test drive. Whaddya know, the car has no issues with the tech in the car.

This has been going on for more than a year now. Are there any dealerships out there that will just fix the issue before it gets worse?

Thanks,
Dave

I had the PCM reflashed when I was experiencing a loss of power. Hasn't happened since. The reflash is a simple solution, and if it doesn't rid it of the problem, then they can replace the CDFP as well.

[tunersteve]

Put the Cobb SRI back on and noticed instant power - no weird boost pressure fluctuation this time - no idea why not. Oh well, im happy :)

You may have had a boost leak the first time you installed it.

[mw007]

There is a TSB for the fuel pump supposedly fixes the problems you've identified. I have it done but I don't think it fixed my issue. The only time I've felt I've ridden myself of this problem is new / cleaned plugs.

I have a copy of the TSB, and have printed and taken it to the dealerships. They weren't impressed as they still could not reproduce the problem. I have taken my plugs out and checked the gap. Everything looked good there as far as gap is concerned, they were a bit burnt looking though. Did you check your gap before you replaced the plugs, or did you just replace? I mean, plugs are cheap compared to replacing an engine, so I might just try doing that, as well.

In the meantime, since there is a TSB on the fuel pump, it needs to be replaced. So I pose my question again. Does anyone know of a dealership near the east coast that will replace the pump without being rude about it? I understand they want to make sure they're not having one pulled over on them, but it's TSB for crying out loud, replace the part! lol sorry, my rant is over...

I'll try replacing the plugs.

thanks!
Dave

[liquidflem]

I have a copy of the TSB, and have printed and taken it to the dealerships. They weren't impressed as they still could not reproduce the problem. I have taken my plugs out and checked the gap. Everything looked good there as far as gap is concerned, they were a bit burnt looking though. Did you check your gap before you replaced the plugs, or did you just replace? I mean, plugs are cheap compared to replacing an engine, so I might just try doing that, as well.

In the meantime, since there is a TSB on the fuel pump, it needs to be replaced. So I pose my question again. Does anyone know of a dealership near the east coast that will replace the pump without being rude about it? I understand they want to make sure they're not having one pulled over on them, but it's TSB for crying out loud, replace the part! lol sorry, my rant is over...

I'll try replacing the plugs.

thanks!
Dave

You need to be stern and talk to the manager. It's a TSB - it needs to be replaced. Is there another dealership close to you? The one i bought my car from seems to be staffed full of assholes as well.

[tunersteve]

TSB's have to be able to be reproduced or the dealership won't work on it. It's their way of dodging a bullet if it's intermittent.

[SteveJ]

TSB's have to be able to be reproduced or the dealership won't work on it. It's their way of dodging a bullet if it's intermittent.

I guess I got lucky. My wife took my Speed6 to Jim Ellis Mazda in Marietta, GA, for the fuel pump TSB. They replaced it with no hassles. Of course, that's part of why we bypass two closer Mazda dealers to go there.

[mw007]

I guess I got lucky. My wife took my Speed6 to Jim Ellis Mazda in Marietta, GA, for the fuel pump TSB. They replaced it with no hassles. Of course, that's part of why we bypass two closer Mazda dealers to go there.

GA huh? I might be taking a trip down there! hell, if it gets the car fixed, I'd say it's worth it!

[Corvette_Brett]

lol ive had this prob. since day 1.. at 39000 miles the dealership has replaced 2 valves called purge valves... prob. still not fixed... so has any1 found a cutt and dry fix... new pump or pumps, plugs,fuel ratio sensor or all the above... need help car goes back in friday and its 2 hours 1 way