Cross Drilled Or Slotted??

[SOCAL MSP]

Okay later Im looking to get a rotter upgrade and I keep hearing slotted, no cross drilled!? I hear cross drilled wil crack over time, and then I hear that slotted dont help as much as drilled cause they let the hot air out..

What are my plans just mostly street racing and mountain runs. So what do you guys rec...Thanks

[exNeon]

i have slotted and dimpled, i did notice a braking difference , but they seem to eat pads and are louder at highway speeds.
if i had it to do over, i would have stayed with flat ones with anti-rust coating.

[SOCAL MSP]

i have slotted and dimpled, i did notice a braking difference , but they seem to eat pads and are louder at highway speeds.
if i had it to do over, i would have stayed with flat ones with anti-rust coating.

Ok so no to slotted....and anyone here with slotted rotters??

[SOCAL MSP]

Dam come on guys I need your help here............................

[mountjonas]

how about upgraded pads, lines and stock rotors?

[SOCAL MSP]

how about upgraded pads, lines and stock rotors?

I also thought about that. Cause I dont go to the track and I mostly do street runs and whenever I go the mountain with some friends for a run but thats hardly....So I would say mostly streets. Like some hawk pads and better lines and I should be good??????

[Arok22]

Rotors.... Slotted = eats up pads like a mofo! Drilled = excellent heat reductions. If you buy a good set of drilled rotors then you will be fine. Don't buy cheapies or you'll have the problems. I know that Corksport sells a couple different drilled rotors and they would be able to answer your question about the quality of product. Good luck.(doh)

[Tom03es]

Drilled rotors have less rotating mass (hence their appeal) and also have less mass to store the heat generated from braking. And since air is a better insulator than the metal used in the braking system, the excess heat will be transferred into the brake pads, the calipers, the brake fluid, the wheel bearings, the lugs, the wheels...... The heat getting transferred into the brake fluid should be your primary concern. If you get the brake fluid hot enough, it boils and becomes very compliant (read: squishy).

I'd get slotted if anything other than blank. But a good quality blank rotor with a good brake pad and fresh brake fluid should suit you fine. Upgrading the brake lines to stainless steel does nothing for actual braking performance- they do increase the pedal feel though.

[We Are Ninja]

I think a large factor in considering drilled/slotted rotors is looks (for me, anyway)... Massive, cross-drilled, slotted rotors look AMAZING on a car...

[Tom03es]

I think a large factor in considering drilled/slotted rotors is looks (for me, anyway)... Massive, cross-drilled, slotted rotors look AMAZING on a car...

There's no denying that.

[SOCAL MSP]

Rotors.... Slotted = eats up pads like a mofo! Drilled = excellent heat reductions. If you buy a good set of drilled rotors then you will be fine. Don't buy cheapies or you'll have the problems. I know that Corksport sells a couple different drilled rotors and they would be able to answer your question about the quality of product. Good luck.(doh)

Thanks.....

[SOCAL MSP]

ok so for Im still on the fence but please keep the help coming....

[fr0st]

i got these:

http://www.ebcbrakesonline.co.uk/images/ebcdgdiscs.jpg

with ceramic pads in front and OEM in back.. brakes like a mofo and even at 120 MPH to slam the brakes and have no vibration what so ever.. and at the cost they are, it better be good .


only drawback in noise.. you hear them not only when you brake but just stroling at 40 mph.. you hear like you got spiked tires on.. but at 40% of the noise level.. at first it bugged me but after that im cool..

if i was to do it again, id go with EBC plain discs instead..

oh and dont buy ebc green stuff pads if you do alot of road racing and moutain runs.. they fade out quickly... but have bite when cold.. ceramic is way better when hot.. but have less byte when cold.. like the 1st few miles of city driving.

Rotors.... Slotted = eats up pads like a mofo! Drilled = excellent heat reductions. If you buy a good set of drilled rotors then you will be fine. Don't buy cheapies or you'll have the problems. I know that Corksport sells a couple different drilled rotors and they would be able to answer your question about the quality of product. Good luck.(doh)

+1 on the cheapies..

i bought EBC because i knew i was not putting shit on the car for brakes.. they cost more and then do more..

[SOCAL MSP]

i got these:

http://www.ebcbrakesonline.co.uk/images/ebcdgdiscs.jpg

with ceramic pads in front and OEM in back.. brakes like a mofo and even at 120 MPH to slam the brakes and have no vibration what so ever.. and at the cost they are, it better be good .


only drawback in noise.. you hear them not only when you brake but just stroling at 40 mph.. you hear like you got spiked tires on.. but at 40% of the noise level.. at first it bugged me but after that im cool..

if i was to do it again, id go with EBC plain discs instead..

oh and dont buy ebc green stuff pads if you do alot of road racing and moutain runs.. they fade out quickly... but have bite when cold.. ceramic is way better when hot.. but have less byte when cold.. like the 1st few miles of city driving.


+1 on the cheapies..

i bought EBC because i knew i was not putting shit on the car for brakes.. they cost more and then do more..

Ok so how about hawk pads??? Here its never below 70 or any higher than 85 in the summer so....I just want some good rotors that dont make a shit load of noise and when I stop it dosent shake the wheel all crazy...

[fr0st]

here the temps is around that too and green stuff can't take the beating.. they says there good and all.. but there for "normal cars with normal driving"

look around.. im not the only one that had fast fading brakes with greenstuff..

go with red stuff in front or something better in the other brands.. if you would use your car diffrently, i'd say you'd be good with greenstuff.. but by what im seeing, your better off with red stuff / ceramic pads in front and carbon or OEM in back.. i had both and they were good
for rotors.. get EBC blanks.. the problem with rotors is the metal used to make them.. EBC seems to have a great formula.. just get blanks.. you ownt get more noise than OEM's..

oh and as for slotted.. there not THAT noisy. you just know there there..

but dont forget, slotted theorectically should cool off faster and if some say theres less braking surface, slam the brakes with no safety belt on and your still gonna end up with the steering wheel in your teeth :)

i gave mind one hell of a beating and nothing changed.. i never had brake fading and there were hot as hell... they just do what you ask of them...period.

don't forget, noise vs. comfort... the end justifies the needs..

[SOCAL MSP]

here the temps is around that too and green stuff can't take the beating.. they says there good and all.. but there for "normal cars with normal driving"

look around.. im not the only one that had fast fading brakes with greenstuff..

go with red stuff in front or something better in the other brands.. if you would use your car diffrently, i'd say you'd be good with greenstuff.. but by what im seeing, your better off with red stuff / ceramic pads in front and carbon or OEM in back.. i had both and they were good

How about hawk pads??? I had them before and I think they worked good. Welll that was on my expedition..

[fr0st]

How about hawk pads??? I had them before and I think they worked good. Welll that was on my expedition..
never tried them.. sorry...

if you use the brakes alot to their full potential like track , autoX and mountain runs.. get something above normal.. for above normal condition..

[orng1]

I have cross drilled and slotted rotos along with metal masters pads front and rear. I can lock up the tires at any moment. The bite is great with this set up, haven't had any issues with abut 20k miles on them. I think they are at about 20% now so I will need a new set soon. I'll get the same set up I'm very happy. Oh yeah don't get the dimpled rotors they are very noisy.

[Tom03es]

But there is one major thing that most people overlook- brakes don't actually stop the car. Tires do. So by saying that "I can lock up the tires at any moment" really doesn't impress me much. If the tires are hard POS's then big deal. Not to mention that locking the brakes, while not being the fast way to stop, also doesn't require much effort from the braking system since the impulse to lock the wheels is a quick and hard action. However, if the tires are sticky and the braking system can routinely haul the car down from speed without issues over and over again in quick succession, then you "might" impress me.

Check out THIS (http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/pulpfriction/pfpage1.html) article written by one of the most respected brake system engineers in the industry. I've seen conferences listed given by him that cost $1000 to attend.

[SavoWood]

My thoughts on brakes...simple:

Get the best you can afford.

On my P5, I have the EBC slotted/dimpled with ceramic pads. Combine that with (nearly) R compound tires and you'll stop the car with no difficulty.

Stay away from cross-drilled rotors. They look cool on show cars, but if you're going to do anything serious with your car, you'll crack them.

On my Boxster, I have Powerslot rotors and switch off between Hawk and Performance Friction pads. The PFCs will make you sound like a city bus, but you won't find better braking performance anywhere. You'll also eat through your rotors a lot faster. The Hawk pads are a lot better on noise, and about 90% there on the stopping power. With the Toyo RA-1 tires, the difference between the pads is minor.

As an instructor (at Summit Point), I push my cars to the limit on the three different tracks we have. Stock rotors will go away quickly with aggressive pads. Stock pads will fade in about 2 laps. Cross-drilled will crack after about 4 track days, and actually give you less stopping power (as there's less area for the pad to connect with). It's really about how much friction you can generate on the rotor and ultimately the road surface.

One note of concern, if you're going to be doing hard braking, get SRF or some other extremely high temperature brake fluid. DOT 4 wont' cut it. You'll boil it very quickly if you're really braking at the limit. I've boiled the brakes on both the P5 and the Boxster using DOT 4. Now I have SRF and GS610 in the cars and haven't had any problems. Even "wet", those have a higher boiling point than DOT 4 does "dry".

One final note, and not to sound like a spoilsport or "dad", but as an instructor I feel compelled to reiterate this, don't race on the street. The track is a more appropriate and much safer place to do it. It also keeps the police off your case which is hard enough without street racing.

[Tom03es]

One final note, and not to sound like a spoilsport or "dad", but as an instructor I feel compelled to reiterate this, don't race on the street. The track is a more appropriate and much safer place to do it. It also keeps the police off your case which is hard enough without street racing.

Not to mention that chasing an EVO (which has large heat sink capable brakes with wide and sticky tires) down a canyon road, you might end up either in the guard rail, the ditch or the oncoming lane.

I agree. Take it to the track.

And those Toyo RA-1 tires are great. I bought a used set at the Run Offs last year and they were still amazing. I ran those tires with Hawk Blue brake pads and ATE Super Blue fluid on my Saturn at the track (Hallett Motor Racing Circuit). Awesome combo.

[SavoWood]

I used to use SuperBlue and Typ200 (alternating so I could tell when the bleed was done) and I boiled those as well. I can run an entire season (20-30 track days) on one flush of SRF. It's truly amazing stuff. It might cost 4 times as much, but you get 8-10 times the use, and then only because I feel bad about running with year old fluid in the lines.

And about the Toyos, I love the RA-1, but they're replacing it with the R888. They don't make it in a size to fit any of my cars just yet, but the tire's new and they're supposed to replace the whole RA-1 line and add a few more sizes as well.

I hope the R888 is as great a performer as the RA-1. The fully thing about the RA-1 is that the more you drive it, the stickier it gets, almost to the cord. They're a fantastic rain tire when brand new, but each 2/32nd brings you down closer to a full slick. When they're about ready to replace, they're only about a second off the times I get with Hoosier R6 (but the Hoosier crack pipe is a bit too much money for me with the number of days I spend at the track).

[SOCAL MSP]

Ok wow that was a lot to soak upl!!! Ok first off Im not gonna do track at all really. mountain runs like twice a year if that, or anything really to put full work on my brake and rotors.Just mostly streets. Trust me if I could I wouldnt be street racing all the time. I already have enough tickets:mad:

The things is we only have one track here and before they use to have it every other fri,sat night at the Q ( charger staduim) Well some shit happen and now they cut down to who the fuck knows when every once a month or something, but they are fighting that right now they city and some other people I forget who they are. So everyone out here is hitting the streets BAD!!!! (msporange

So with that said and knowing what kinda braking Im doing out here. What would you rec????

[SavoWood]

It sounds like you don't do much hard braking at all. The stock setup would probably work well for you. If you want a better feel, try braided lines. If you want to get a good rotor, then go for the EBC slotted and dimpled. It has a good ability to keep the system cool because of the extra surface area, but the material is abrasive enough with a good pad to stop you quickly. I'd look at a ceramic pad to go with the EBC. AJUSA has a good price on the rotors (and maybe pads as well).

No matter what, I'd go for the good stuff when it comes to brake fluid. Especially if you end up doing a mountain run in hot weather and your brakes get a little hotter than usual. Knowing your brake fluid, even year old stuff, will not boil, is a good feeling. I use GS610 or Castrol SRF in all my vehicles. It's a good feeling.

So, stock or EBC rotors, ceramic pads, and real racing fluid. With what you do, you should be fine.

[SOCAL MSP]

It sounds like you don't do much hard braking at all. The stock setup would probably work well for you. If you want a better feel, try braided lines. If you want to get a good rotor, then go for the EBC slotted and dimpled. It has a good ability to keep the system cool because of the extra surface area, but the material is abrasive enough with a good pad to stop you quickly. I'd look at a ceramic pad to go with the EBC. AJUSA has a good price on the rotors (and maybe pads as well).

No matter what, I'd go for the good stuff when it comes to brake fluid. Especially if you end up doing a mountain run in hot weather and your brakes get a little hotter than usual. Knowing your brake fluid, even year old stuff, will not boil, is a good feeling. I use GS610 or Castrol SRF in all my vehicles. It's a good feeling.

So, stock or EBC rotors, ceramic pads, and real racing fluid. With what you do, you should be fine.


All right sounds good to me thanks!!!but

AJUSA has a good price on the rotors (and maybe pads as well).
Is the name of the company AJUSA. Do I just gooogle that and it will come up or what??? Sounds good and Ill probably start with some braided lines first. Since its the cheapest part to do
(drinks)

[SavoWood]

http://www.ajusa.com/

I've bought a lot of stuff from them for both my cars. Make sure to ask if things are in stock and when they'll be shipped. Sometimes, things are a week out and you don't get them when you were hoping. They're not the only company I've had that problem with. I ordered fuel injectors from a Protege specific store and it took over a month to get them.

While you're doing the braided lines, you should just go ahead and do the fluid. You're going to be replacing it anyway. You can get GS610 or SRF from OGRacing. http://www.ogracing.com/eshop/home.asp?categ=68

OGRacing also has a handy guide to the different fluids they carry:

http://www.ogracing.com/files/brakefluid.htm

[SOCAL MSP]

Thanks for the links and Ill be sure to look into both when I start this....(rockon)

[SOCAL MSP]

http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/stores/start?vendor_code=EBC&category_id=6f4922f45568161a8cdf4ad2299f6d23&category_id_check=98e899046939ccf733e42966322769ad&session_id=c1a7cfa0f59ff3105ab45383b39e5ebd#catego ry_lookup

Which brake pads theres like 3???

[SavoWood]

For what you're doing, the Greenstuff should be fine. You can get the Redstuff, but I don't think you'll need it. You might also consider the Hawk HP+ or Blue pads from TireRack.

[SOCAL MSP]

For what you're doing, the Greenstuff should be fine. You can get the Redstuff, but I don't think you'll need it. You might also consider the Hawk HP+ or Blue pads from TireRack.

Ok Ill look into that and like you said I hardly use my brakes at full force..I do from time to time but not all crazy....