She's ill

[camerazn]

My MSP is a sick little puppy. Here's what's up:

-Whistling noise: After the engine gets hot, a whistling noise comes from the passenger's side of the engine bay only when she is under full vacuum. Hitting full boost clears the problem temporarily, but it comes back.

-Gear Changes: Either my shifting has gone bad, or changing gears has gotten harder. I probably miss two or three shifts a day. Any other Atlanta area MSPs want to let me compare?
EDIT: It's been suggested that maybe the clutch isn't disengaging all the way. I have noticed a strange little noise sometimes when I press the pedal. I'll check on this.

-Hesitation: She's been hesitating pretty bad recently. The ECU is unflashed, so I imagine this has something to do with it. But the problem has gotten worse recently. I was pulling out of a gas station, trying to get up to speed before a tractor trailer got even with me so that I could get into the left lane for a quick U turn, and I got NO power in first until I hit about 5K RPM. Other gears are little better. Possible causes include heat soak (high 90 degree day + long highway drive + pumping gas while the IC just absorbs engine heat) and a dirty air filter (cone filter that came with the AEM CAI. I haven't cleaned it off in about 20K miles).

-High boost: Oh yeah. And I'm boosting to about 7.5 psi. I'm not really complaining, but it seems high for a totally stock (+ cai) engine.

-Parking brake: One more thing. The parking brake cable is loose (rotors probably need changing as well: that's scheduled for this fall). This sudden looseness is probably because my dear sweet automatic driver friend co-drove my car around a fast autocross course with the parking brake up. I'll play with the adjustment nut by the ebrake handle later tomorrow.

I'm going in for the 60K maintenance soon. I'm thinking of having them look at the transmission as well, because I broke my 5th to R shift lock pate (entirely depending on how much time and cost that adds to the maintenance). I'll have them flash the ECU too, along with investigating the whistle.

In addition, I'm going to use seafoam during my next oil change (I'll ask the Mazda techs not to change my oil: I know Mobile kills baby seals, but I only trust Mobile1 and PureOne filters. I'm OCD that way, but I have not lost any oil between changes).

Any more thoughts?

[fr0st]

this didn't happen all at once, you seem to have not kept it up well..

these car demande ALOt of TLC.. i drove mine like 4000 miles since december and it cost me in maintenace and mods than a used corolla..

Fr0st

[camerazn]

this didn't happen all at once, you seem to have not kept it up well..


The parking brake is just something I've let go. Other than that, I first noticed the whistling in mid-July, and then all the other symptoms from there on.

[camerazn]

She's back from 60K servicing. Shifting problems are probably me getting very lazy and picking up bad habits. The ECU was flashed and the parking brake was tightened. We're still whistling when the engine gets hot. I think it's a vacuum leak. Tomorrow morning I'm going to get the car hot and start spraying starter fluid until I find the source. I'm also going to seafoam the engine and replace the plugs (and oil, but that's just 'cause it's time).

Also, an appearance "mod" (not a wash. I did that on Wednesday.)

[crackerjakx]

Whenever you figure out that whistling problem let us know. I have the same problem and it's driving me crazy. Someone suggested the turbo but I wasn't able to pinpoint it on the turbo. It sounds like it's coming from the belt/pulley area on my car. But it's probably a damn exhaust leak or something stupid.

[evilmonkeyMSP]

whens the last time you flushed and refilled the tranny w/ new fluid?

[camerazn]

whens the last time you flushed and refilled the tranny w/ new fluid?

I replaced the transmission fluid this spring. It's possible that the fluid level is a little low: there was some spillage trying to fill it.

Regarding the whistling, I think it's a vacuum leak, possibly on the intake manifold. I bought a can of starter fluid, so I'll try to find the leak myself tomorrow morning.

[evilmonkeyMSP]

was the car level when you filled it? You would fill it till it starts coming back out the fill hole when the car is level.

[camerazn]

was the car level when you filled it? You would fill it till it starts coming back out the fill hole when the car is level.

If that's the case, I might be perfect or a little too much. The car's nose was up when we filled it, as I had to be under the car holding the tube in the filler hole. We put in 3 (or was it 4? -- it was the right number) of bottles of transmission oil.

Though now that I'm thinking about that, I'll pick up some of the good GM Syncromesh fluid and redo that job this fall.

[crackerjakx]

Should be just under 3qts (2.83qts I think). If you had the nose up then you most likely overfilled it, especially if the nose was up when you drained it. Find a flat surface and let the car cool some (transmission fluid expands with heat) and take off the filler bolt. If it's over it will probably spill out an excess since the max mark is the bottom edge of the filler hole.

[DH Motorsports]

Pinch the line that comes from the WG to see if it stops the whistling. If it does, your wastegate actuator needs to be replaced. This happened to me as well- whistle only when fully hot, at about 16mmHG and higher (-16 and lower)

Definitely sounds like your WG.

[Mazda_Tech]

yea the whistling noise is your wastegate, there is a tsb i think for replacement, you can try to get the dealer to do it under warranty

[camerazn]

Pinch the line that comes from the WG to see if it stops the whistling. If it does, your wastegate actuator needs to be replaced. This happened to me as well- whistle only when fully hot, at about 16mmHG and higher (-16 and lower)

Definitely sounds like your WG.

Sounds cheaper to fix than a leaky intake manifold. I'll check it out tomorrow.

[camerazn]

Seafoam's done, along with new spark plugs, an oil change, and an ECU flash. She's running well, except she idles low. It might be all in my head, but the butt dyno says she is is a little more peppy than before.

Also, you know what's fun? Forgetting to reconnect the brake booster line and setting off down the driveway with a rock solid brake pedal.

[DH Motorsports]

Update on the whistle?

[camerazn]

Update on the whistle?

None yet. She's idling really low now, so I can't sustain the whistle long enough to get out of the car and try anything.

That being said, I haven't driven her yet yesterday or today, so I'll check it out when I run to the bank later on.

[crackerjakx]

You don't need to be in the car to give it some gas. Just push on the bronze lever on the back of the throttle body that opens the butterfly (don't just ram it open, give it a few 'test' blips to get the feel).

[Mazda_Tech]

your idle is low because there is probably still seafoam in the engine, drive the shit out of it for a couple mins and the idle should go back to normal.

[camerazn]

You don't need to be in the car to give it some gas. Just push on the bronze lever on the back of the throttle body that opens the butterfly (don't just ram it open, give it a few 'test' blips to get the feel).

I should have thought of that. Idle improved a bit. I still haven't driven the shit out of the car, but I'll get on that sooner or later (I always do).

I did check with a stethoscope, and the whistling is definitely coming from the wastegate area. I'll get it taken care of whenever I do.

Any idea if Mazda will perform TSB work under warranty if the car is over 50K miles and I didn't buy an extended warranty?

[crackerjakx]

Damn, probably my WG too then. The stock WGs are total bullshit. I started hearing that whistle probably 5k after I got a new stock turbo. Seriously, can Mazda not recognize a shitty part? (EGR comes to mind too)

As for TSB work, you need an active warranty. Or you can try calling every mazda dealership in North America and see if someone's willing to do it for free ;)

[DH Motorsports]

Stock WG? Any wastegate will do that no matter where you get it.

I replaced mine recently on my aftermarket setup for the whistling. The internal diaphragm quits working properly after a while.

[crackerjakx]

I don't consider it normal to have to replace a wastegate every 5k-30k miles

[Velocifero]

get the ATP WGA and replace it yourself, or have locals (umm hum) help you out. It is cheaper and will last you longer. plus you'll see a pound or a touch more increase in boost. Make sure you test your stock one first though. Disconnect the vacuum line that goes to the WGA at the tee where the BPV vac line meets. Blow in the WGA line and if you get resistance it is fine, if air blows through then the diaphram is shot. It would be a good time to replace the rubber vac lines with silicone and consider some vac reroutes as well. It's a $70 replacement as opposed to several hundred if you can't get it for free.

and it usually isn't the wastegate you guys are replacing, that requires a new turbo for these cars as they are internally wastegated and there is no diaphram there, more like a trap door, what you guys are replacing with the diaphram is the waste gate actuator (WGA).

[camerazn]

In what way does the breaking WGA affect performance? I tried tugging on the vac line you said, but it wasn't coming off and I didn't feel like hurting anything.

I'll look into grabbing a replacement part soon, but I'm moving into Georgia Tech over the next few days. After that, I'll try to find a good time to call in the cavalry (the good folks of the GACC).

[camerazn]

Woohoo! I bought a new WGA from Ken.

[ItsSlow]

As for TSB work, you need an active warranty.

I didnt think you needed an active warranty for TSB work..

[crackerjakx]

I didnt think you needed an active warranty for TSB work..

I think you're thinking about recalls.

[Velocifero]

I think you're thinking about recalls.

TSB are recalls of sorts. It is a known problem that is related to the smooth runnign of the car so they should fix it regaurdless of warranty. I know the TSB for the VICS screw on teh P5s came out when plenty of those guys were past warranty.


In what way does the breaking WGA affect performance? I tried tugging on the vac line you said, but it wasn't coming off and I didn't feel like hurting anything.

I'll look into grabbing a replacement part soon, but I'm moving into Georgia Tech over the next few days. After that, I'll try to find a good time to call in the cavalry (the good folks of the GACC).

the WGA opens and closes the wastegate. it can be stuck partially open, open or closed completely causing boost issues, noises. When mine went out I was hitting 19psi (got it on video), other people have had less than stock boost, and apparently some people have experienced a whining noise. Which WGA does PG offer, stock replacement? Between me and Shadow102 we can take care of you with this. I work right down by Tech, maybe we could meet up for a bite for lunch some time.

[camerazn]

Which WGA does PG offer, stock replacement? Between me and Shadow102 we can take care of you with this. I work right down by Tech, maybe we could meet up for a bite for lunch some time.

I think it was Ken himself, and not Ken via PG, that was selling his brand-new-in-the-box ATP WGA.

That would be awesome. I'll totally buy lunch for anyone who will help me with something like this.

[Velocifero]

I think it was Ken himself, and not Ken via PG, that was selling his brand-new-in-the-box ATP WGA.

That would be awesome. I'll totally buy lunch for anyone who will help me with something like this.

surely, but the install will have to be on a weekend. lunch break won't cut it timewise.

[camerazn]

surely, but the install will have to be on a weekend. lunch break won't cut it timewise.

I thought as much (or else you have amazing lunch breaks). I'll let you know once the WGA comes, and something will be decided from there.

[camerazn]

Okay, so I got the WGA. I think. It's somewhere in my apartment.

More news of my girl's illing. The faceplate is stuck slightly swung out. This may or may not have to do with having changed the battery today. I haven't tried pulling the room fuse, but I'm going to later on.

Also, the AC stopped cooling (it worked fine yesterday). Now it just makes a hissing noise.

If I get desperate, I may just do an AC delete. And a radio delete. Or I might just buy an MR2.

[camerazn]

Radio problem fixed. I pulled the ROOM fuse, put it back in, and the radio started working again. AC's still busted.

[kamon8404]

Radio problem fixed. I pulled the ROOM fuse, put it back in, and the radio started working again. AC's still busted.

Next time the radio is stuck out, just push the little button on the headunit.

[camerazn]

Next time the radio is stuck out, just push the little button on the headunit.

That button wasn't accessible. The HU was barely emerging from its hidden position, not half-way or all the way around.

[crackerjakx]

Any news on the hot whistle @ idle?

[camerazn]

Any news on the hot whistle @ idle?

I have the new wastegate actuator sitting on my desk. I'm waiting until this weekend / I don't feel like crap to install it. (sick)