Oil filter relocation

[livelyjay]

So I'm thinking about relocating my oil filter. The reasons being that it's a pain to get to, but also I want to do some additional monitoring and remote mounting the filter will help with remote mounting the electric sending units. So instead of having a bunch of fittings hanging off the block, I figure remote mount the filter and have the fittings hang off the mount, which will vibrate less than the block.

Does anyone know what size stem the oil filter connects to? I am thinking about getting this (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG4985&N=700+115&autoview=sku) or this (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D10695&N=700+115&autoview=sku) and I want to make sure it comes with the correct sized adapters. I want to make a guess and say our filter is 3/8 NPT with 16 thread, but I want to make sure.

[xelderx]

It's the same thread as the Miata. I've got a relocation kit on mine, but it take me a little while to get you the info on it. I'll get back to this thread in a little while.

[livelyjay]

Thanks for looking into it. If you point out the kit you bought that would also be helpful, because then I could just buy that one.

[xelderx]

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/remote%20oil%20filter%20kits/remote_oil_filter_kits.html

I just called them and got the parts for the Miata minus the fittings and hose. That way I could make my own hose and get the right angle fittings for where I wanted to mount the filter. I have a local shop that keeps the line and fittings in stock.

[xelderx]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=47707&d=1115754064

When I ordered my kit they used Chevy 350 filters. They might have changed to ford filters now. I would just call them to get the details.

[livelyjay]

$275 is a bit steep for an oil relocation. Do you have any more pictures of the install? I'm not so much concerned about the filter that attaches, more so the piece that screws on to the block.

[livelyjay]

After searching this forum and check out your setup, I have a good understanding of how those universal type kits work.

You pick the adapter from the kit that fits the block oil filter fitting. You then mount the oil hose coupler to that adapter. Barbs and hose go next. Then you mount the new oil filter holder somewhere in the engine compartment and hook up the hose. I think I might just get the cheaper one from Summit and see how it works. I am due for an oil change soon any ways.

[livelyjay]

According to Derale, which makes a lot of oil accessories, the threading on "most" Mazdas is 20x1.5 (http://www.derale.com/oil-filter-relocate.html). So the question now is did Mazda build the FS engine, or did Ford?

[xelderx]

Yea...they are pretty simple. I just got fancy with mine and did the SS braided lines and expensive fittings. The good thing about those is if you do them right they never leak. The only other thing is that the Summit ones are cast metal and the one I have it Billet. Not really a big deal.

[xelderx]

According to Derale, which makes a lot of oil accessories, the threading on "most" Mazdas is 20x1.5 (http://www.derale.com/oil-filter-relocate.html) (http://www.derale.com/oil-filter-relocate.html%29). So the question now is did Mazda build the FS engine, or did Ford?

It's all Mazda

[livelyjay]

Ok, cool. I think I'm either going to go with the TransDept or Derale filter kits. They are a little more expensive, but Summit is sold out of the other kits and they won't ship till the end of the month or some time in August. The only draw back is they are not universal. The adapters only come in one threaded size. That could be advantageous though, as using an adapter adds one more piece that could eventually leak.

I'll see if I can find a PermaCool kit at a place that has them in stock. If I do get one I'll detail the installation for everyone to enjoy.

Did you use nuts and bolts to do you install, or did you thread the installation point?

[xelderx]

Did you use nuts and bolts to do you install, or did you thread the installation point?

Where the filter is mounted? I drilled and tapped that.

[livelyjay]

Where the filter is mounted? I drilled and tapped that.
That's what I thought. I'll look into doing something similar when I install mine. JCWhitney has the universal PermaCool version in stock. I'm going to order that one and make sure I seal up the adapter so it won't leak. Maybe use some teflon tape and some sensor safe liquid gasket to seal it up nice and tight.

I'll go with the AN fittings and stainless hose down the road when I get my oil gauges.

[livelyjay]

One more thing, did you install that on the radiator support? The metal in the picture looks thicker than you would get on the fender wall and even the firewall.

[livelyjay]

I am still debating which one to get. I contacted Canton Racing to find out what the threading is on the adapter. I want to get the specific one, because adding a threaded spacer just adds another piece which could leak. Once Canton Racing gets back to me I will make my decision and buy the kit. I narrowed it down to three units, because SummitRacing is sold out of their universal kit until August. Here are the kits:

Trans-Dept - Sold at JEGS
Derale - Sold at JEGS
PermaCool - Sold at JCWhitney

[Shadow102]

figured i would chime in also and say that you can also use a WRX kit as we use the same oil filter

[livelyjay]

Which makes sense. I figure the smaller displacement Japanese engines would use the same oil filter threading because they probably source the filter fitting from the same companies. The Derale site says 20mmx1.5mm are used in "most" Honda, Mazda, and Mitsu engines. You could probably add Subaru and Toyota to that list as well.

[Shadow102]

Which makes sense. I figure the smaller displacement Japanese engines would use the same oil filter threading because they probably source the filter fitting from the same companies. The Derale site says 20mmx1.5mm are used in "most" Honda, Mazda, and Mitsu engines. You could probably add Subaru and Toyota to that list as well.

the toyota threads are the same but the filter is not.

[livelyjay]

Yes its the same as the miata, 20 mm x 1.5 is the thread size for the filter.
So, time to order the filter kit with 20mmX1.5mm.

[livelyjay]

FYI, JCWhitney looks to be the cheapest place to buy these from. Jegs, Summit, and CarshopInc all charge a lot for shipping/handling.

EDIT: $59 shipped. I got the TransDapt kit with model number 1158. I went with that one because it uses threaded fittings at each adapter. This means I can splice in a brass tee fitting at the block and put in the oil temperature sending unit and splice in a tee at the new filter location and put in the oil pressure sending unit. I won't have my car for another week at least and I don't feel like buying the gauges right now. I'll get the tee fittings though and put in some plugs until I do get the gauges, just so you guys can see what I am doing.

[Alejo_NIN]

updates?....


pray tell.....

[livelyjay]

No updates yet. A lack of funding has not allowed my to purchase my gauges. Luckily it's my birthday next week, so the checks have been rolling in. I should have enough to buy a boost gauge and the oil gauges. I pulled the oil relocation kit out last night to take a look at it. Pretty simple install it seems and I may tackle it Thanksgiving weekend if I have time since I have a lot of house maintenance projects that need to be addressed before it starts snowing.

[Shadow102]

figured i would also add now since i bought a honda that a honda b-series (most likly d-series as well) use the same oil filter we do as well as the 3.5L nissan VQ engines

[Alejo_NIN]

interesting

[livelyjay]

Just FYI, this is what I will be purchasing in the near future. The oil filter relocation comes with 1/2" hoses with 1/2" NPT male fittings on the ends. I'll be getting either one 1/2" NPT cross or two 1/2" NPT tees to allow for the two oil sending units. I am also wondering if I should put swivel fittings from the hoses onto the relocation adapter that goes on the engine. I'm going to talk with another forum member and see how he did it.

http://egauges.com/images/Cyberdyne/A013E061Y.jpghttp://egauges.com/images/Cyberdyne/Large_d/A010E060Y.jpghttp://egauges.com/images/Cyberdyne/Large_d/A022E061Y.jpghttp://egauges.com/images/Cyberdyne/Large_d/A020E060Y.jpg

(2) Adapter Bushing - 1/8" NPT female x 1/2" NPT male
(1) Adapter Tee - 1/2" NPT female x 1/2" NPT female x 1/2" NPT male
or
(1) Adapter Cross - 1/2" NPT female
(1) Adapter Nipple - 1/2" NPT male

[Alejo_NIN]

are those 4 different gauges?
if so..that's overkill...now, if they are all incorporated into one..that's bad ass

[livelyjay]

Four different gauges. Why overkill? Boost/Vac, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp. I already have a working A/F ratio gauge (it's narrowband, but I have a wideband to narrowband conversion box, so it works just like a wideband gauge). If you can find me a single gauge that does all of what I pictured above I would be more than interested at buying it, but only if it's less than $300.

[Alejo_NIN]

Four different gauges. Why overkill? Boost/Vac, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp. I already have a working A/F ratio gauge (it's narrowband, but I have a wideband to narrowband conversion box, so it works just like a wideband gauge). If you can find me a single gauge that does all of what I pictured above I would be more than interested at buying it, but only if it's less than $300.

aha, less than 300....that's gonna be tough


why overkill?
i dunno...i think is too much
you already have a oil pressure light, a temperature sensor.

and, what's that wideband to narrowband box thing?

more on that please

[livelyjay]

The only place I can see that does multi-gauge display is PLX Devices, and they haven't come out with the pressure sensors yet. The intelligent display thing that they have is pretty sweet, but having to buy the display and all the sensor modules on top of that is insane. You're talking over $500 easy for the entire thing, with only one gauge.

The Wideband to Narrowband conversion box no longer exists. PLX Devices had it on their web site for a while, but it was never in stock. I had to call them and have them make one for me, and they no longer have it on their site. If I remember correctly, NB goes from 0.0v to 1.0v, while WB goes from 0.0v to 5.0v. What the box does, is it take the WB reading, and steps it down to the equivalent NB reading like this:
NB WB
0.0 0.0
0.1 0.5
0.2 1.0
0.3 1.5
0.4 2.0
0.5 2.5
0.6 3.0
0.7 3.5
0.8 4.0
0.9 4.5
1.0 5.0
The box allows me to run any NB gauge and have it work like a WB gauge. It was well worth the $40 and hassle it took to get it. It's also something I will never be selling :)

[Alejo_NIN]

yea, that'ss work perfectly with the innovative motorsports o2 controller wihtout a display
could also be used tomaybe get the WB to work with the stock ECU therefore not needing a narrowband o2 anymore

[livelyjay]

yea, that'ss work perfectly with the innovative motorsports o2 controller wihtout a display
could also be used tomaybe get the WB to work with the stock ECU therefore not needing a narrowband o2 anymore

I see what you mean and I never thought about it that way. It would act in the same way as a NB output from a WBO2 box. WB output into the box, the wire the box output to a NB gauge and into the ECU. That would allow you to replace one of the stock O2 sensors with the WBO2 sensor. I never really thought about it because the MSP has a third O2 bung that isn't being used in the J-pipe, so I just used that for my WBO2 sensor. Not like I would need to, because my Zeitronix box has NB output any ways.

Since I autocross I don't think having all these gauges is a bad idea. Boost and A/F will be right in front of my face (I am building a leadfoot style gauge bezel) and the oil and water gauges will be in the top din (radio is in lower din, I'll be removing the pocket).

[Alejo_NIN]

i see...

what i'm thinking is that maybe the WB O2 would not be as forgiving as the NB O2 and perhaps would drive the eCU crazy by constantly changing the AFR's

the NB is not as quick acting as the WB...

just a thought

[livelyjay]

i see...

what i'm thinking is that maybe the WB O2 would not be as forgiving as the NB O2 and perhaps would drive the eCU crazy by constantly changing the AFR's

the NB is not as quick acting as the WB...

just a thought

Possible, but I don't think so. It depends on which O2 sensor is being replaced. If I remember correctly, if you're using the NB output from the WBO2 box (Zeitronix, Innovative, PLX, etc) then you need to replace the second O2 sensor with the WBO2 sensor, because all that sensor does is tell the ECU that the first cat is working. I contacted Zeitronix about this and they said if you're replacing an O2 sensor with the WBO2, the second one is the only one you can do it with.