View Full Version : ABS and Park Brake light on
dharman
06-19-2007, 02:44 PM
I got in my car this morning and drove away. I noticed after that both the ABS and e-brake light are on. I tried turning off the car and restarting it but they are still both lit. Anyone have any ideas of why they would be on.
Action Jackson
06-19-2007, 02:57 PM
Brake pads are low and/or brake fluid is low.
Check the pads first, rotor thickness 2nd and inspect for any leaks.
Does ur speedo work? I had that problem and it was the ground at the fuse block. Also could be a speed sensor. Do u have a CEL?
MonkeyBone
06-19-2007, 07:07 PM
ive got this problem too but if i restart the car...everything go back to normal after a matter of minutes
ive done the DRL/fog light mod so ive wired together 2 wires that concern the parking light and abs so ive check the connection and everything is good.. so this is ok but ive noticed that at high speed if I slam the brakes hard theres a "jog" kinda thing and in town when I apply the brakes theres a kwikee noise maybe brake pads are worn? and ive check the brake fluid level and everything is ok no leaking at all
i hate modern cars for that....freaking check lights everwhere anytime(gun)
P5inMD
06-20-2007, 08:49 AM
nice whip kz9
I've had that prob too. light didn't come on until I hit the brakes. then I noticed that if I hit the brakes hard enough, there'd be this clicking thing that seems to hit the brake pedal up kinda forcing you off the brake pedal. any one know what that was about? I almost had crazy accidents because of it. I fishtailed once trying to avoid an accident.
but I took car to dealership, they said I had about a week of city driving left in the brake pads. so I changed them and light is off. I gotta get new rotors tho (4 yrs and never replaced). btw, that clicking thing in the brake pedal even after I had the brake pads and fluid (or so I'm told) replaced. why? btw, I do have ABS
dharman
06-20-2007, 01:11 PM
I checked the rear pads and they do seem really low so I took the car in this morning to have them replaced. Hopefully that solves the problem. There must be some kind of sensor in the rear brakes.
MonkeyBone
06-20-2007, 07:52 PM
clicking thing is the abs that is freaking out..making this on mine....dont have the time to chek this...will do soon
dharman
06-21-2007, 03:37 PM
Took the car in. Rear callipers are seized abs sensor is shot on one side and the rotors needed to be replaced. A nice $ 1100.00 bill yeah.
Ya thata be why the lights are on.....
Hmm... I just got this on my car... they inspected my brakes 5 months ago and said I have 70% left... I'll have to check my brake pads myself now. Brake fluid is fine...
Nope, brake pads are just fine.... did a test drive last night, ABS isn't working...
MonkeyBone
07-17-2007, 07:43 PM
found what it got (half of it)
did the fog/drl mod and 2 wires where not well connected..but there is a sound from the rear brakes...the guy who had the car before me changed the calipers the discs and the pads at the rear and i think he did not remove all the scrap from the hub and they put the discs rght on the scrap so its shaking when I apply the brakes....worse on highway speeds anyway it brakes good no problem with that and the pads are like new ill be doing a full check next week (vacation time!) (headbang)
spudgun07
07-17-2007, 08:58 PM
I took my car in last week for the very same issue.
My brake pads are down to 3 mm (WHOOPS!!), as well as a broken Wheel Speed Sensor. The dealership said they wanted to change the pads and turn the rotors for $130 in the front and $130 in the rear. TURN ROTORS!? Waste of money, if you ask me. I'll take my car to my buddy's house this weekend for the pads and just get new rotors when I need to.
I know there could be an issue with uneven wearing, but I really don't think it'll be a major one. It seems to me that they just want to turn the rotors because it's a time-intensive process that they can charge me up the arse for labor.
As far as the clicking in the pedals... I'm fairly certain that's just your ABS freaking out (possibly due to a broken sensor), because mine will do that to from time to time. Basically... if the light isn't on, and I get on the brakes hard enough... they click like that and then the light comes on, and it basically shuts down the ABS. It's basically over-acting, as far as I can tell.
It's the same thing it does when you're trying to stop on ice. It's kicking the anti-locks on when they really don't need to be on. Which is basically the reason that I don't care for ABS... Less control, essentially.
That was a long post. Hope it was midly helpful.
I talked with the dealership today and he is thinking from all the symptoms I have that it is probably the speed sensor... will find out on Friday I guess.. have to drive 3 hrs to the dealership and take a day off work!
spudgun07
07-17-2007, 11:55 PM
Bummer. Good luck!
I got lucky... they opened a Mazda dealership here in town (in a convenient location, even) just a few hundres miles before my warranty expires.
tap'n'die
07-28-2007, 05:57 PM
I knew my brakes were going soon, so i ordered 4 brembo blanks, pbr pads and ss braided lines to do the job. I was hoping i would have time to have the rotors cryogenically treated but it looks like i'll be installing them as soon as they get here.
This week both parking brake an abs light came on; i assumed that meant that the pads were worn and that since the fluid level drops as the pistons sit farther out of the calipers.
Yesterday i was driving slowly and just coasting on the brakes to come to a lazy stop and the ABS kicked in a little at the beginning of braking a couple of times. This got me a little concerned so i pulled the abs fuse out of there roadside. No faulty ass abs is going to cause me to rear end some vehicle or plow straight out of a corner(gun)
Screw ABS, i never liked it anyway. I think i will be removing the ABS light sooner than putting the fuse back in.
But is this just a "warning" from my brake system or does this mean my sensors are toast? Hope my calipers are ok i don't need that expense and agravation...
I was at the dealership last week... my problem is the right rear speed sensor... Of course the dealership had the left rear in stock, not the right.. so the 6 hrs of driving never got the problem fixed...
danielschweer
07-29-2007, 12:50 PM
nice
DeadGeneration
07-29-2007, 01:04 PM
I still don't feel educated enough to figure out when my brake parts need replacing or how much life is left on them. No symptoms yet, but are symptoms a sign of "too late?"
with my car... I still have 70% brakes left... just one of the sensors are shot, so the ABS don't work..
tinfoil
01-10-2008, 12:05 PM
Hey folks, didn't want to start a new, duplicate thread.
I have an '02 Pro5. It's a Canuckistan car, so I've got ABS. My ABS and ebrake lights are on. Took it in, sure enough I have to replace pads/rotors/calipers as both back brakes were seized. Nice. While he was back there he cleaned up the sensors, but the lights are still on (though it stops fine now, yay!). The front brakes were replaced not long ago, but those were inspected as well.
Slapped on some rather expensive looking equipment onto the computermatrola thing and it's not shooting up any codes, yet the lights are on. I have tested, and ABS is certainly not working. He said I could take it to the local dealer and have them muck about with it, but they are some of my least favourite people, so I'd really rather not give them my cashish.
Normally I would just pull the fuse and be done with it, but as my wife wrecked my last car, and as it is winter, I think it would be best for my car if I had working ABS.
tap'n'die
01-10-2008, 02:57 PM
Mine does the same thing; the right rear sensor is pooched and needs to be replaced. IF you want ABS you will have to take it to the stealership, their diagnostic computer will know which one needs to be changed in minutes, note which sensor it is, say thank you and take your car and this info to your favourite mechanic (or just replace it yourself, pretty easy) they cost about 150$ per sensor, so instead, why not teach the wife how to make good use of her right foot the old school "analog" way?
If you don't replace it i suggest you disconnect the 60A ABS fuse under the hood because for some reason, the faulty sensor sometimes caused my ABS to kick in for no reason lifting me off the brakes with the wheels not even locking; scary when you want to decelerate and the car arbitrarily decides you shouldn't... I have been driving without ABS for months now and believe me there is no going back...
there is a brand new right rear sensor on my car which they wrote off a couple days ago... hah
tinfoil
01-11-2008, 08:01 AM
Mine does the same thing; the right rear sensor is pooched and needs to be replaced. IF you want ABS you will have to take it to the stealership, their diagnostic computer will know which one needs to be changed in minutes, note which sensor it is, say thank you and take your car and this info to your favourite mechanic (or just replace it yourself, pretty easy) they cost about 150$ per sensor, so instead, why not teach the wife how to make good use of her right foot the old school "analog" way?
If you don't replace it i suggest you disconnect the 60A ABS fuse under the hood because for some reason, the faulty sensor sometimes caused my ABS to kick in for no reason lifting me off the brakes with the wheels not even locking; scary when you want to decelerate and the car arbitrarily decides you shouldn't... I have been driving without ABS for months now and believe me there is no going back...
So a regular computer that the shop hooks up to the port in the dash can't tell me which it is, requiring me to go to the dealer? Bah. That's not cool.
I'll pull the fuse and black tape over the dummy lights. Thanks folks!
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