Burning/Losing Oil

[jonlong]

Hey guys, I have a problem with oil loss and I can't find a good explanation. I change my oil and filter every 3k-4k miles. I always add the quantity specified in the owner's manual. After about 1500-2000 miles of driving, though, I need to add a lot of oil. Last time I checked it, the dipstick was dry and it took about 2.5 quarts to get it back to the proper level. My exhuast doesn't show signs of burning oil, and I can't find a leak anywhere. I found a piece of my valve cover gasket that was tearing off, and there appears to be some oil residue around that area (near the oil fill cap, but not due to spilled oil). I ordered a new gasket, but I don't think that it will change anything. Could I be losing that much oil through a small leak in that gasket?

Any other ideas?

Thanks a lot!

[2xsess]

Not sure how many miles are on your car but I had the same thing recently. I had just switched to mobil 1 with 85K on the clock after having used the blended synthetic since I bought it with 36K. I added some Restore to the oil and haven't had anymore problems but I am going to switch back to the blended oil next oil change.
Hope that helps.

[Mr.Ames]

i have to add a liter every 2 or 3 days. no leaks, but after my car sits all day it burns a bunch when i start it up. sticky valve maybe?

[Mazdamia]

Check you compression. I have had this problem for a while and it looks like I just lost all compression on cylinder 3 this morning...I still have to talk to the guys at the shop for info.

If it is burning, it will likely only get worse. Also, I doubt that it is leaking out at that rate as it would probably be pretty obvious to you that oil was leaking due to the look of the surrounding area.

With that much burning you will probably have little specks of black on the hatch (obvious on light-colored cars).

[Mr.Ames]

i did a compression test a while ago, 150ish all the way across

[Mazdamia]

i have to add a liter every 2 or 3 days. no leaks, but after my car sits all day it burns a bunch when i start it up. sticky valve maybe?


Your problem is identical to what mine was...after 5-6 days (300 miles) I would be down 2+ quarts. After i see the mechanic today I'll post what the problem was.

[Action Jackson]

i did a compression test a while ago, 150ish all the way across

Mine was 200'ish all the way (I'll assume the wet test).

[Mr.Ames]

Mine was 200'ish all the way (I'll assume the wet test).

well apparently i'm within spec, according to this thread (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123669075) so i dunno what to do... i ran seafoam thru the intake and gastank a while ago. i'm gonna put some in with the oil tomorrow, being as i have to change the oil anyway. see if that helps at all

[03promaz]

mine uses about 3/4 every 3k.

[Action Jackson]

I thought I had a burning oil problem too. I did not.

The problem was that I go over 120kph on the highway in which the F/A mixture becomes full rich from what I've read.

Going slower actually took care of my problem.....

It's just not as fun......:(

[thrasher]

I also have to refill at least 2x between regular oil change intervals. I have no idea where it goes. No drips and no smoke.

I just switched from a 5w30 synthetic to the castrol GTX high mileage 10w30. I'll see if that sticks around any longer.

I'll also have to do a compression test.

[jonlong]

Sounds like this is a pretty common problem (maybe not a problem?)

[Mr.Ames]

i started my car this morning and blue smoke everywhere. it was horrible. my poor baby :(

[shoughun]

Hey guys, I have a problem with oil loss and I can't find a good explanation. I change my oil and filter every 3k-4k miles. I always add the quantity specified in the owner's manual. After about 1500-2000 miles of driving, though, I need to add a lot of oil. Last time I checked it, the dipstick was dry and it took about 2.5 quarts to get it back to the proper level. My exhuast doesn't show signs of burning oil, and I can't find a leak anywhere. I found a piece of my valve cover gasket that was tearing off, and there appears to be some oil residue around that area (near the oil fill cap, but not due to spilled oil). I ordered a new gasket, but I don't think that it will change anything. Could I be losing that much oil through a small leak in that gasket?

Any other ideas?

Thanks a lot!

Main function of the valve cover is to protect the various valve train components from the elements that may cause damage on them. And as if this is a function too small, it was gifted with another function—and that is to serve as a pool for lubricant oil as it drips back to the bottom of the engine block of your Mazda. After being pumped at the top of the engine, the lubricant oil pools inside the valve cover before draining back inside the engine through the cylinder head’s drain back holes.

Damages in the valve covers would not only affect the valve train components of the engine. Essentially, all engine components such as the valve cover gasket and other parts that make use of lubricant oil will be affected. The most common effect of Mazda valve cover gasket (http://www.automotivemazparts.com/mazda-valve-cover-gasket/) damage is oil leaks and if these leaks are kept unchecked, it may result to excessive oil loss, which in turn would cause engine parts malfunction.

[Mr.Ames]

so lately when i start my car in the morning, this is what happens

[Yaggie1]

Wow, that doesn't look good at all.

[Mr.Ames]

i burnt 2.5L of oil driving from grande prairie to calgary (about 750km) so i think its time to take it to the shop before my warranty runs out

[Diehonda]

Were you all ever able to figure out what was going wrong?

[Mr.Ames]

i havent ripped apart the motor yet... maybe in the spring, but im starting to think its piston rings AND valve seals. we'll see

[Rusty]

I remember when the P5s on this forum were all new. A few of the guys thought they were taking super good care by changing the oil before the first change was due. My opinion, which I posted, was that a new engine needs to run the oil full term in order for parts to break in and seat properly, especially the rings, and that early changing would cause early oil burning. They need that initial metal slurry to help everything polish and fit. I believe this has been proven to be fact by engine builders. Hopefully this isn't the problem in any of your cars, but I'd be curious to know how those guys' cars are doing now.

[Reitrof]

I remember when the P5s on this forum were all new. A few of the guys thought they were taking super good care by changing the oil before the first change was due. My opinion, which I posted, was that a new engine needs to run the oil full term in order for parts to break in and seat properly, especially the rings, and that early changing would cause early oil burning. They need that initial metal slurry to help everything polish and fit. I believe this has been proven to be fact by engine builders. Hopefully this isn't the problem in any of your cars, but I'd be curious to know how those guys' cars are doing now.

I have always changed the oil and filter after the 1st 1000 mi on all of my new cars. Never had an issue with oil or engine trouble. Current P5 has 159,000 miles and runs great.

[MTV]

I thought I had a burning oil problem too. I did not.

The problem was that I go over 120kph on the highway in which the F/A mixture becomes full rich from what I've read.

Going slower actually took care of my problem.....

It's just not as fun......:(

That's exactly what it is. Whenever I drive over 120 on the highway to and from school, I noticed over the course of a few days I lose a lot of oil. When I keep at 110, it's fine. Weird.

[Deivett]

My P5 from 2003 had this problem a while ago, it only have 35,000 miles... first i noticed that when the P5 is not started in 3 or 4 days it starts to smoke burning oil until warms up, a few months ago the oil light brighten my face while driving and a noise from the motor.....BEARINGS damaged for the lack of oil, the motor only had 1 quarter of oil......got to throw the motor down and repair all bearings...they sound like hell when damage... Finally I got the P5 back and it still sometimes burn oil, also I noticed that the oil sensor from the back, just under the intake manifold is draining oil...just a little, but no oil stains on the floor, I asked the dealer and it is the NOC sensor or something like that, and when they are damage they drain oil only when the motor is running and hot, so there will be no stains of oil on the garage. That was what they told me on the mazda dealer. If anyone have this same problem let me know...
Tks...

[Rusty]

I have always changed the oil and filter after the 1st 1000 mi on all of my new cars. Never had an issue with oil or engine trouble. Current P5 has 159,000 miles and runs great.

Yeah, I know that a lot of people do that. If you get a chance to talk to an engine builder, ask him what he thinks. I'll do the same. I grew up with iron blocks and no sleeves, so maybe my knowlege is out dated.

[VividMP5]

Well..my car has 115K on it, and it's been burning oil for awhile now, but now its getting worse, I have to add a bottle of oil every week, and at start up in the morning the P5 will smoke for about 15-30 sec. I've been told that the valve seal on the P5 is not that great and especially if you run synthetic oil in it, it will break down the seal faster. I've ran mobile 1 for awhile and now I have 20w-50 in. Now, since it's burning so much oil, I'm thinking of either dropping an engine in, or rebuilding it, my question is what's more cost effecient? Rebuilt or engine swap? Also, I have someone here locally that has an automatic engine for sale, would it work with a manual? Thanks! ...."Gotta get the smoke out!!" Sorry for the threadjack

[dmjddm9999]

I also had a similiar problem with oil burning at a rapid speed. It turns out that I am losing compression, which in turn means that I am losing power. Check your spark plugs to see if there is any oil on them or on top of your pistons. If there is, then your piston rings are bad.

[dmjddm9999]

an enigine rebuild alone would cost over $2000. It's cheaper to just purchase a replacement motor. Definatley go with an engine swap. Yes, this engine would work on a manual trans. the trans it came off of doesnt matter.

[ho bag]

If its burning that much oil on startup then there is leak down from the valve seals.

But from the sounds of it you have multiple issue. Leaky valve cover, leaky valve seals. Not pointing fingers but the valve seal damage was probably cause by either high rpm abuse or oil starvation issues which may be due to a third issue we haven't even though about yet.

Bottom line? Cheaper to replace the motor then fix it.

[MonkeyBone]

BUMP!

How much $$ for a new valve cover gasket? I got to change mine, there is some chunks of it that are missing. I dont loose much oil, 1 liter every 5000 km but it smells bad because oil is leaking on the side of the cover.

[RABID_MP5]

Chunks missing - man that's bad. Replace it now. They run about $30, high but you need it. If it looked OK but seeped a little, I'd say try to clean it up and spread some silicone gasket sealer (O2 sensor safe only!) on it and reassemble. The thing with these gaskets is you can't really tighten them. The valve cover touches the head at the bolt holes - once the gasket loses a little flexibility, it will seep.

[MonkeyBone]

OK Thanks!

Like I said its not leaking like crazy but ill check that promptly.

[AEMMAZDA5]

Check you compression. I have had this problem for a while and it looks like I just lost all compression on cylinder 3 this morning...I still have to talk to the guys at the shop for info.

If it is burning, it will likely only get worse. Also, I doubt that it is leaking out at that rate as it would probably be pretty obvious to you that oil was leaking due to the look of the surrounding area.

With that much burning you will probably have little specks of black on the hatch (obvious on light-colored cars).

I think that's exactly what's happening to my P5. I just changed my oil and filter a week ago at most, and now I'm border-line dry on the stick. I can't find a leak anywhere, but the tip of my exhaust is thick black just on the inside, and it seems to be speckling the back hatch. You think the aftermarket muffler could be the problem??

[flat_black]

Head gasket, valve seals, oil cap seal, valve cover seal, and PCV grommet. All those tend to evacuate oil pretty handily. In the event of an overheat, too, your head could bow a little, given that it's aluminum, which can account for a drop in compression in one or all cylinders. Also, at higher RPM, it seems like the PCV system recirculates a LOT of oil, which, of course, causes the oil to burn. If you were to attach a PCV catch tank, you could monitor just how much it's forcing out.

A few thoughts for you folks. =)

[2000VRsex]

well i was gonna say valve seals but got beaten!! but that looks like good stuff to check ^

[Mike R]

I go through about 2 qts every 10K or so. Mobil 1 synthetic starting at 5K miles. 172K now.

[MazdaSpeeder]

I can't find a leak anywhere, but the tip of my exhaust is thick black just on the inside, and it seems to be speckling the back hatch. You think the aftermarket muffler could be the problem??

Nope, my exhaust is black, and it's stock...I think my valve guide seals are bad.

[flat_black]

Head number three is off getting cleaned, and milled down .030". Valve seals were dropped on at the same time. I've had some really good luck with Toga's performance seals. They're vitron rubber, and tend to seal a little better than the stockers.

My first head that was torn down had worn seals, and I think the valves could do with a good coating of anti-friction material. So, if I tear down this head again, that may be the direction I go.

Either way, try the Toga valve seals.

[MazdaSpeeder]

Thanks for the heads up!

[magnumP5]

My first head that was torn down had worn seals, and I think the valves could do with a good coating of anti-friction material. So, if I tear down this head again, that may be the direction I go.
I'm curious as to what kind of symptoms you were having with this. My car has recently developed a pretty serious oil consumption problem (gone through more than 2 qts in the last three weeks) and I'm trying to find the source. No smoke on throttle - only smokes if a turn the car on and immediately start moving without letting it really warm up or if when I'm cruising at highway speeds I let off the gas for some time to slow down and then get back on the gas to maintain speed I get a nice puff of smoke visible through the rear window. I've got three possible sources: piston rings, turbo seals or valve seals and right now I'm leaning towars the valve seals.

[flat_black]

Generally, I would consume a large gulp of oil when I throttled down, and it would stink like holy hell of unburnt hydrocarbons when someone was following me. You wouldn't SEE smoke, per se, but if someone is following you, they'll be able to tell you're burning scads of oil.

The consumption rate sounds about right, though; 2q per month or so, with only moderate levels of driving (but I hammer the hell out of my car, pretty much all the time.)

[magnumP5]

Generally, I would consume a large gulp of oil when I throttled down, and it would stink like holy hell of unburnt hydrocarbons when someone was following me. You wouldn't SEE smoke, per se, but if someone is following you, they'll be able to tell you're burning scads of oil.

The consumption rate sounds about right, though; 2q per month or so, with only moderate levels of driving (but I hammer the hell out of my car, pretty much all the time.)
Yeah I'm up at school right now (only 3 more weeks to go!) so I don't drive as much as I usually do. I first noticed it after I drove to and from Cincinnati from Blacksburg. I checked the level before we left and it was full and then when I checked it again the day after we got back the dipstick was bone dry. Two days after that is when I started to see the smoke. I really need to do a compression and/or leakdown test but I just don't have the time right now.

[Rusty]

Damn dudes, I never lose any oil. I drive it like it's stolen most of the time. I change it every 3k - 5k miles. In my wife's car, a V6 Galant, when it gets to 3k - 4k miles it'll suddenly drop a quart. If I add oil, it'll drop it right out again, but that's all, it doesn't get any lower. I consider that my signal to get off my ass and change it.

[flat_black]

I normally would change after a few races, or after 3k, whichever came first. But, as things went on, I was changing out the oil over 2.5k, due to it burning and contaminating oil faster. I'll let you all know how it goes when I get my next head back in. =)

[Sveivo]

Yeah I'm up at school right now (only 3 more weeks to go!) so I don't drive as much as I usually do. I first noticed it after I drove to and from Cincinnati from Blacksburg. I checked the level before we left and it was full and then when I checked it again the day after we got back the dipstick was bone dry. Two days after that is when I started to see the smoke. I really need to do a compression and/or leakdown test but I just don't have the time right now.

Did you ever figure out what the issue was?

[ghettoracingkid]

someone mentioned to me on another thread there oil pressure sensor wasnt leaking but it was the cuase of the problem.

[magnumP5]

Did you ever figure out what the issue was?
Nope, not yet :( The smoking has stopped altogether recently (the past two months or so) but I'm still getting blak spots all over the hatch. I did a compression test about 3 weeks ago and was around 200 psi in all cylinders (high, but acceptable). I also just pulled off the exhaust manifold last night and I didn't have any wet spots or oil dripping out (like I have seen with cars that have bad valve seals). The only thing I have noticed is that down in my IC pipes after my turbo I have some decent oil residue. I had always checked the top bend and it never showed signs of oil but down at the bottom if definitely does. I'm beginning to think it is my turbo now but unfortunately I'm going to have to reinstall it for the time being because I don't have another one lying around.

[i12drivemyMP5]

I put a PCV catch can on mine. It definitely isn't where all of it goes but does keep some out that woulda been burnt. I've gotta go with valve stem seals because there are no leaks anywhere.

[Sveivo]

someone mentioned to me on another thread there oil pressure sensor wasnt leaking but it was the cuase of the problem.
Interesting, I will look into that. My oil consumption isn't significant right now. I think the hotter weather and higher RPM driving have a lot to do with it.

I noticed that consumption happens around 6000 rpm and higher. There really isn't any need to rev that high, but it does happen at times.

Nope, not yet :( The smoking has stopped altogether recently (the past two months or so) but I'm still getting blak spots all over the hatch. I did a compression test about 3 weeks ago and was around 200 psi in all cylinders (high, but acceptable). I also just pulled off the exhaust manifold last night and I didn't have any wet spots or oil dripping out (like I have seen with cars that have bad valve seals). The only thing I have noticed is that down in my IC pipes after my turbo I have some decent oil residue. I had always checked the top bend and it never showed signs of oil but down at the bottom if definitely does. I'm beginning to think it is my turbo now but unfortunately I'm going to have to reinstall it for the time being because I don't have another one lying around.
Does the compression test indicate the condition of the rings?

I put a PCV catch can on mine. It definitely isn't where all of it goes but does keep some out that woulda been burnt. I've gotta go with valve stem seals because there are no leaks anywhere.
Do you experience more accumulation at higher RPM, have you noticed?

[i12drivemyMP5]

I'm sure it would increase with more rpm more often. I don't visit 6kland. I stay below 4ville as much as possible.

[Sveivo]

I'm sure it would increase with more rpm more often. I don't visit 6kland. I stay below 4ville as much as possible.

Yeah, 4500 rpm seems like all that's really needed for decent acceleration.

[hendru]

Hey Guys this is my first post! im From venezuela and i have a mazda protege 1998 and i have the same problema BUT THE SOLUTION IS valv seal and Piston Ring i used to burned all the 3 liters of oil in just one day and my rings where in a really bad condition also my seals! i can tell you for sure that i would solve your problem!=D i hope it help you :D

[i12drivemyMP5]

If my rings/valve seals were that bad the car wouldn't even have compression enough to run, much less push 3 liters of oil out per day. Be a lot of smokin even if it could, but thanks & welcome aboard.......

[supergti]

i got blue smoke and oil burn problem b4. The pistol ring, pistol, rod went badly. finally got rebuilt it

[hendru]

If my rings/valve seals were that bad the car wouldn't even have compression enough to run, much less push 3 liters of oil out per day. Be a lot of smokin even if it could, but thanks & welcome aboard.......

somtimes man i couldnt even start the car because when i stop in a corner and i want to start again the car doesnt have compression so i have to accelerate and desaccelerate and then my car would run other way it wont because i lost the compression

[c4racer]

Chunks missing - man that's bad. Replace it now. They run about $30, high but you need it. If it looked OK but seeped a little, I'd say try to clean it up and spread some silicone gasket sealer (O2 sensor safe only!) on it and reassemble. The thing with these gaskets is you can't really tighten them. The valve cover touches the head at the bolt holes - once the gasket loses a little flexibility, it will seep.

closer to $50 at my dealer.

[Hendrick]

Hi Guys im new here i have a mazda protege 1998 thats Has DOHC 16 valve the same that came with mx-3 and i burn oil in 3 days :( also when i want to run when the cars is gettin to 4k rpm start to do explosion i dont know if that explosion are for the GAS also somtimes the cars seems to lose the power and dont go up to 3k rpm so im losing compression? thats why sometimes the car doesnt feel with the strenght? i really dont know im going to change the piston ring ,change the valve seals i let see if i keep with the problem, but what u can say ?

[P-Funk!]

From what you describe - the timing belt has slipped. Pull the cover and see if the marks line up.

If it is burning that much oil - the compression test should tell you whether you need only a valve job or a piston ring job.

[Hendrick]

From what you describe - the timing belt has slipped. Pull the cover and see if the marks line up.

If it is burning that much oil - the compression test should tell you whether you need only a valve job or a piston ring job.

Thanks next weeks im going to repair the engine and ill change the timing belt i hope that be

[LinuxRacr]

I am seriously thinking that the valve seals are my problem....

[JDMJNKY]

I was burning oil also at startup for about 5-6 sec's then all gone.Under wot or any of the gear's I would have no smoke at all got tired of it and took the head off ordered valve seal gasket's from napa which are the felpro one's ( big mistake ) sent the head off to the local machine shop to get a full valve job done ( valve seal's,valve guide's etc ) and also get the head hot tanked.The car ran great for about two week's no smoke at all but then it start's to smoke on startup like before.Only thing I could think it could be is that the felpro seals I bought were all red and maybe the machine shop installed the intake side on the exhaust and the exhaust side on the intake that is a big no no.

So I ordered some OEM valve seal's threw the local mazda dealership to do the job myself once again.I bought a tool to do the valve work without taking off the head this time and will also be using the rope trick so my valve doesn't end up ontop of the piston.Total cost of the oem seal's for the pro5 was $148 and some change Green is exhaust and black would be the intake side.Wish me luck lol.

http://i56.tinypic.com/2e5o8zn.jpg

http://i52.tinypic.com/2usdd09.jpg

[LinuxRacr]

Where are you finding information about the "nylon rope trick?"

EDIT: Never mind, I found some good references:

http://www.5min.com/Video/Valve-Spring-and-Oil-Seal-39414079

and

http://www.lextreme.com/valve_seals.html

[MazdaSpeeder]

JDMJNKY, can you take lots of pics and post a how-to? I need to do this and would love to see how it went for you. Thanks!

[JDMJNKY]

JDMJNKY, can you take lots of pics and post a how-to? I need to do this and would love to see how it went for you. Thanks!

No problem won't do it till maybe end of Jan but I'll take lot's of picture's.

Great link's too that's the tool I have but the fat one won't work on our head's so I bought the set which bring's the thin tool also that one work's great on the protege head's..Here's a picture of the extra head I have just trying out the tool..

http://i55.tinypic.com/mvnogi.jpg

[Fatony]

I also had a similiar problem with oil burning at a rapid speed. It turns out that I am losing compression, which in turn means that I am losing power. Check your spark plugs to see if there is any oil on them or on top of your pistons. If there is, then your piston rings are bad.


This is not entirely correct. Your spark plugs could be covered with oil because of a few reasons:
1) Valve stem seals are bad leaking oil into cylinders
2) Valve guides are overly worn and need replacing
3) PCV valve is not working correctly and there is excessive oil going into the intake manifold and through the intake valves into the cylinders
4) piston rings have no compression left.

To tell where the oil is coming from, do a compression test. If the cylinders are holding a good amount of pressure (150-210psi) then there is no way the rings will cause excessive oil to get into the cylinders and burn out the exhaust. If the piston rings are bad, the compression test will show a low reading and/or you will be getting a lot of blow-by when you take the oil filler cap off and put your hand over it while the engine is running. Also will see smoke coming out the oil fill tube with the blow-by.

Another good test besides the compression test is a leak-down test. You can pick these up at Harbor Freight for $40.
Here's a video on a leak down test http://youtu.be/ofSiTGeLXvc


My motor was burning a ton of oil in the morning and going through a quart a week and the plugs looked fine!
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4478.jpg

Really bad oil leak in cyl 1
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4488.jpg

A lot of deposit on the piston head
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4530.jpg

Valves looked burned as well
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4581.jpg

After deposits cleaned
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4578.jpg

New Head ordered
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4621.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4592.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4599.jpg

[Fatony]

I also had a similiar problem with oil burning at a rapid speed. It turns out that I am losing compression, which in turn means that I am losing power. Check your spark plugs to see if there is any oil on them or on top of your pistons. If there is, then your piston rings are bad.

This is not entirely correct. Your spark plugs could be covered with oil because of a few reasons:
1) Valve stem seals are bad leaking oil into cylinders
2) Valve guides are overly worn and need replacing
3) PCV valve is not working correctly and there is excessive oil going into the intake manifold and through the intake valves into the cylinders
4) piston rings have no compression left.

To tell where the oil is coming from, do a compression test. If the cylinders are holding a good amount of pressure (150-210psi) then there is no way the rings will cause excessive oil to get into the cylinders and burn out the exhaust. If the piston rings are bad, the compression test will show a low reading and/or you will be getting a lot of blow-by when you take the oil filler cap off and put your hand over it while the engine is running. Also will see smoke coming out the oil fill tube with the blow-by.

Another good test besides the compression test is a leak-down test. You can pick these up at Harbor Freight for $40.
Here's a video on a leak down test http://youtu.be/ofSiTGeLXvc


My motor was burning a ton of oil in the morning and going through a quart a week and the plugs looked fine!
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4478.jpg

Really bad oil leak in cyl 1
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4488.jpg

A lot of deposit on the piston head
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4530.jpg

Valves looked burned as well
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4581.jpg

After deposits cleaned
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4578.jpg

New Head ordered
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4621.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4592.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4599.jpg

[Mopar92]

If that smoke goes away and stays away, it might just be valve stem seals. Which isn't that bad to change.

[i12drivemyMP5]

I'm still at 148.00 for oem set of valve stem seals. Fuckin pricey.............but necessary I suppose. There aren't some better ones that maybe cost more but last longer?