ATP Boost Cut Defender Q's

[RevLimitLaunch]

is the boost cut defender the same as a fuel cut defender? i'm running stock boost levels, maybe gonna up it a couple pounds, but i have a small problem with hitting fuel cut here and there shifting hard into gears (1/4 mile racing). just wanna know if it is an fcd just as much as a bcd, which in theory i believe it should be. but i'd rather be safe than sorry, couldn't find any info on site's. thanks

[jcgemt2003]

Its the same

[RevLimitLaunch]

awesome, i guess it'll be ordered tomorrow morning. thanks!

[Kooldino]

I stock these on my site. Why not order from me and get free shipping?

http://www.speedcircuit.net/product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=188

[LBV]

Lately when I've been going full-throttle and just after a shift the car bogs for 1-2 seconds before it comes back on power again - is that fuel cut or maybe a stock BOV leaking? The car's lost some of it's snap when on boost so it may be the latter ... just wonderin' what the symptoms are for fuel cut.

Thx

[RevLimitLaunch]

on the S U forum it's been discussed and a few people switched out bov's and solved their problem. i'll be installing the hks asap to find out for myself before hand.

kooldino will you match protege garage?? ill order it right after the hks is installed to see if it helps my problems first.

[Bokerparts]

Lately when I've been going full-throttle and just after a shift the car bogs for 1-2 seconds before it comes back on power again - is that fuel cut or maybe a stock BOV leaking? The car's lost some of it's snap when on boost so it may be the latter ... just wonderin' what the symptoms are for fuel cut.

Thx

Got the same problem. But only when I shift very fast into next Gear. I will throw out the Greddy Type RS and the AEM CAI to check if it is the Problem. Maybe I'll take a hybrid Blow off. The CAI makes only loud noises. It is useless in my eyes. Especialy if it rains. It is so dirty after 2000 miles that the power lost is bigger than the gain.

So will try out a K&N with stock airintake box.

[RevLimitLaunch]

cai > k&n filter, already tried it and found a huge difference. as for the filter getting dirty, it's easy to get it off, takes me about 5 minutes or so to get under and fandangle it out to clean it. cai will make its biggest gain after a tune. either way im pretty sure my problem came around when i put in the test pipe.

[Bokerparts]

cai > k&n filter, already tried it and found a huge difference. as for the filter getting dirty, it's easy to get it off, takes me about 5 minutes or so to get under and fandangle it out to clean it. cai will make its biggest gain after a tune. either way im pretty sure my problem came around when i put in the test pipe.

Do you lift up the car for cleaning it or do just fandanglie out without lifting it up?

[RevLimitLaunch]

i didn't have to lift it up, just turned the wheel all the way to the right and undid the fender liner. as long as you aren't lowered there shouldn't be a problem whatsoever. i've had to do it a few times now, k&n filter cleaner kit is cheap and easy to use definitely. fun fun, BUT i've now been doing it every time i do an oil change and i use some easy to use ride up ramps which make changing the air filter even easier. 30 bucks for plastic reinforced 8000lb rated ramps at autozone

[LBV]

Got the same problem. But only when I shift very fast into next Gear. I will throw out the Greddy Type RS and the AEM CAI to check if it is the Problem. Maybe I'll take a hybrid Blow off. The CAI makes only loud noises. It is useless in my eyes. Especialy if it rains. It is so dirty after 2000 miles that the power lost is bigger than the gain.

So will try out a K&N with stock airintake box.

I'd love to hear what you find out.

On the CAI side with the water, just fab up a splash shield out of a large plastic container or small garbage can (I used an empty round protein powder container). Cut to fit. For added protection just cover up the first 2 top rows of vents on the wheel liner too. Again, I just cut some plastic from an empty windshield washer jug and screwed it in with the plastic on the inside ... all ghetto but effective.

[Bokerparts]

I'd love to hear what you find out.

On the CAI side with the water, just fab up a splash shield out of a large plastic container or small garbage can (I used an empty round protein powder container). Cut to fit. For added protection just cover up the first 2 top rows of vents on the wheel liner too. Again, I just cut some plastic from an empty windshield washer jug and screwed it in with the plastic on the inside ... all ghetto but effective.

I will try that out (wow)

What do you think about that?

http://images.autoanything.com/images/products/large/air_intake_systems/injen_hydro.jpg

It fits to any CAI

[LBV]

People have used those but it's gotta present some kind of restriction to airflow and that's why I didn't bother.

[pHeeL tHiZ ViBe]

People have used those but it's gotta present some kind of restriction to airflow and that's why I didn't bother.

no they really don't, very breathable plastic like material

[thabigo]

so back to the topic did that Atp Fuel Cut defender work for the problem you were having??

[Rican219]

Who has the BCD installed? Worth Doing if no EMS installed?

[forrestang]

If anyone needs an ATP BCD, I've got one that I've un-installed since I installed my EMS.

[RevLimitLaunch]

did it do any good while installed??

[gerasimatos]

I like how no one has been able to comment on the dang thing.

[forrestang]

did it do any good while installed??

I can't give you an honest comment, as I never got fuel cut with that and my GT3071R on there.

But then again I had the stock airbox on there, so my fuel trims weren't being screwed up by a CAI.

So I didn't get any fuel cut with it, no matter what I did.

Many others with the cut defender did get fuel cut.

[gerasimatos]

and the score at half time is......

FCD = 0
Mazdaspeed6 = 1

[Rican219]

Fcd = Ftl?

[buit9110]

I have the atp fcd and it works perfectly, i spike at 19 and boost 17 and no fuel cut at high rpms its a very good tool if you are not getting an ems soon. I'm upgrading my turbo probably next week so I'll need it if I want to keep boost at 20psi.

[speedi3]

I have the atp fcd and it works perfectly, i spike at 19 and boost 17 and no fuel cut at high rpms its a very good tool if you are not getting an ems soon. I'm upgrading my turbo probably next week so I'll need it if I want to keep boost at 20psi.

What are the challenges to adding this? Since adding my DP I have FC all the time.

[forrestang]

What are the challenges to adding this? Since adding my DP I have FC all the time.

It's really easy to install, although you just gotta disconnect, or move one or two of the connectors out of the way to get to it.

Removing the old bolt, taking out the sensor, installing sensor into the relief valve, then reinstalling with longer bolt.

It doesn't solve fuel cut for every car though, as fuel cut comes from more than boost pressure inside manifold.

[RevLimitLaunch]

i just got it and it solved alot of backfiring i was getting driving my car fast ripping thru gears. awesome addition, i installed it in the dark and it was a pain in the ass getting it back together lol.

[speedi3]

It's really easy to install, although you just gotta disconnect, or move one or two of the connectors out of the way to get to it.

Removing the old bolt, taking out the sensor, installing sensor into the relief valve, then reinstalling with longer bolt.

It doesn't solve fuel cut for every car though, as fuel cut comes from more than boost pressure inside manifold.

So until you get EMS this is the solution? I usually get it about about 100 under spirited driving. So the limitations in 1 & 2 help as I get the most out of those gears...

[mrlilguy157]

ATP's fuel cut defender, boost cut killer, whatever you want to call it.... is amazing.

i bought it along with a manual boost controller and i run about 20psi on the stock k04. its ridiculous and amazing at the same time. i think without this product you're no where on upgrading turbo or turning the boost up. i dyno'd 264whp 332wtq with it at 4k on the dyno (the dyno was whack and the chart went to hell after that). i havent been to a dyno since to get good solid numbers, but i definately need to.

[LBV]

20 psi! Yikes.

How long have you been at that psi? I'd love to know what the limit is on the turbo & motor is.

[mrlilguy157]

20psi isn't yikes - especially on a k04-22. its pretty much at the peak of the effeciency range on the turbo, but its performing extremely safe. i've been at this level for 2 months now.

no problems(and there wont be any) - just fun :)

[LBV]

That's gotta be a BIG difference over the stock 15.6 uh?

[mrlilguy157]

most definately, and even more so now that i hit more power in the first 3 gears. we ms3 players figured out how to bypass the torque limiting feature.

[speedi3]

most definately, and even more so now that i hit more power in the first 3 gears. we ms3 players figured out how to bypass the torque limiting feature.


How did we figure that one out?

[mrlilguy157]

How did we figure that one out?


turn the key to the on position and hold the dsc button (you should see the dsc light go off then back on). while holding the button start the car, wait about a second and let go.

you should see the 'dcs off' light and traction-loss graphic/light stay lit at the same time.

there ya go. have fun spinning tires and going crazy balls fast

[LBV]

I've been frequenting the MS3 forums and I never knew that was already figured out ... nice!

[cx7pos]

umm.. i'll have to try this one the CX-7! Next question is.. does this procedure keep DCS off on every engine restart? or you have to go through this procedure everytime you start the car?

[RevLimitLaunch]

didn't work on my ms6 today. oh well

[shucky]

By holding he DSC button in when the car is started does kick on the traction control light, however it does not disable the torque limiting feature you speak of. Folks who have tried this have "reported" they can "feel" a slight difference (I've tried it also), but it does not give you full boost in 1-2 gears if thats what you mean. Just slightly removes another level of ECU nanny'ing.

mrlilguy - you have any pics of the install of your MBC?

[mrlilguy157]

By holding he DSC button in when the car is started does kick on the traction control light, however it does not disable the torque limiting feature you speak of. Folks who have tried this have "reported" they can "feel" a slight difference (I've tried it also), but it does not give you full boost in 1-2 gears if thats what you mean. Just slightly removes another level of ECU nanny'ing.

mrlilguy - you have any pics of the install of your MBC?

there isn't much to show. i have a picture of a boost controller and 2 vacuum lines going to it?

if you bought one and want a tutorial on how to install, call me! it's a bit different than any other traditional turbo car. you've gotta cap off one of the vaccuum ports on the wastegate (the top one), as well as the electronic boost solenoid (the thing the top wastegate port is connected to from factory). then intercept the bottom vaccuum port of the wastegate and that vaccuum line to tie in your manual boost controller.

[Silo]

Sounds exactly like the install in the "90's" MR2 turbos... :D

[bacarl]

Has ATP got a site..? How do I pick one of these up? (I already have a Turbosmart MBC)

[wannabe]

you can buy from Ken at ProtegeGarage

http://mazda3online.web.aplus.net/product_info.php?cPath=281_24_34_260&products_id=1038

or from Dino http://www.speedcircuit.net/product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=188

[whooosh]

turn the key to the on position and hold the dsc button (you should see the dsc light go off then back on). while holding the button start the car, wait about a second and let go.

you should see the 'dcs off' light and traction-loss graphic/light stay lit at the same time.

there ya go. have fun spinning tires and going crazy balls fast

I'm going to try this......very interesting

[whooosh]

I'm going to try this......very interesting

this DID NOT work BTW

[mrlilguy157]

this DID NOT work BTW

you're in an ms6 or ms3?

does in the ms3's for sure.

[speedi3]

there isn't much to show. i have a picture of a boost controller and 2 vacuum lines going to it?

if you bought one and want a tutorial on how to install, call me! it's a bit different than any other traditional turbo car. you've gotta cap off one of the vaccuum ports on the wastegate (the top one), as well as the electronic boost solenoid (the thing the top wastegate port is connected to from factory). then intercept the bottom vaccuum port of the wastegate and that vaccuum line to tie in your manual boost controller.


Ok. I'm ordering the parts today. I will call you next week. boost gauage, Joe P MBC, boost cut killer. Anything else needed?

[speedi3]

this DID NOT work BTW


I was skeptical too, but it does work.

insert the key
turn on
push/hold the dsc
wait for it to blink
release dsc
start car

Both the dsc and traction control lights will be lit when you start. (cheers)

[mrlilguy157]

Ok. I'm ordering the parts today. I will call you next week. boost gauage, Joe P MBC, boost cut killer. Anything else needed?


I think that's it, it wouldn't Hurt to get vacuum lines and yours going to need a bigger vacuum t for that boost gauge from the blow off valve vacuum source. A reducer fitting too, to take away needle shaking... Just call me when you're at autozone :)

[whooosh]

I was skeptical too, but it does work.

insert the key
turn on
push/hold the dsc
wait for it to blink
release dsc
start car

Both the dsc and traction control lights will be lit when you start. (cheers)

ok I'll try again....I want it to work oh yeah
also, I have the ATP boost cut module and a Vodoo III HP MBC that has basically eliminated the boost spike because it has two bleed settings instead of the traditional 1
It has a coarse and fine bleed adjustment
Look up Voodoo MBC on a Google search and look at them, they are priced the same as the one you are going for but have added ajustability
just my .02
thanks

[speedi3]

I think that's it, it wouldn't Hurt to get vacuum lines and yours going to need a bigger vacuum t for that boost gauge from the blow off valve vacuum source. A reducer fitting too, to take away needle shaking... Just call me when you're at autozone :)

Just ordered with Ken and told him to include all those parts that i would need. brought that accuboost controller rather than Joe P.

[laloosh]

Just ordered with Ken and told him to include all those parts that i would need. brought that accuboost controller rather than Joe P.

let me know how everything works out. I am in the same boat as you and would really like more opinions. Perhaps a write up?

[mrlilguy157]

if anyone has any questions call me, jonathan martin...

i originated this setup. 214 957 0461

[laloosh]

if anyone has any questions call me, jonathan martin...

i originated this setup. 214 957 0461

Is there anyway you can spend 10-15 min and take few pictures with a sentence of two of what they are showing...you know like a lil write up. This way no1 has to call you and bother you lol

[speedi3]

Is there anyway you can spend 10-15 min and take few pictures with a sentence of two of what they are showing...you know like a lil write up. This way no1 has to call you and bother you lol


Agreed. I will not be doing the work and will print off the thread be ANY additional assistance is helpful!

[pHeeL tHiZ ViBe]

By holding he DSC button in when the car is started does kick on the traction control light, however it does not disable the torque limiting feature you speak of. Folks who have tried this have "reported" they can "feel" a slight difference (I've tried it also), but it does not give you full boost in 1-2 gears if thats what you mean. Just slightly removes another level of ECU nanny'ing.

can somebody with the CP-E ems log some information for me??

i would like to know, what difference this little DSC trick makes. and i'm almost certain you would visually be able to see a difference in graphs.

edit: that is unless it doesn't actually do anything..thats what i'd like to know, is if it changes anything. or if its in their heads

[Jesse MS3GT]

I was skeptical too, but it does work.

insert the key
turn on
push/hold the dsc
wait for it to blink
release dsc
start car

Both the dsc and traction control lights will be lit when you start. (cheers)

When I try this they both lights are NOT LIT and then when I try to turn the dsc off I cant until I restart the car.. WTF?

[speedi3]

Jesse, That's one way that you know it worked is that you can't change the setting until you turn off the car.

[pHeeL tHiZ ViBe]

oh..interesting, i've must have done it wrong. i always hold the button while starting it..i gotta try it again.

[x'ed]

Jesse, That's one way that you know it worked is that you can't change the setting until you turn off the car.


So is this actually true?

[dc82]

So is this actually true?

Yes, many on the MS3 Forums say that it works. I've tried it on my brother's MS3 and it worked. So it does work, but that doesn't have anything to do with the ATP BCD or questions/help regarding it.

[Zixxspeed]

do you need a boost controller to use this?

[blackwidow]

My ATP boost cut killer is installed and i still have fuel cut at +/-5500RPM in 4,5, gears ? I will dyno test my car march 19 so i will see why ....... ?

[Rican219]

Had mine installed for more then 6 months with no fuel cut and no issues. I bought a MBC but didn't use it. Both ATP BCD and MBC will be up for sale soon.

[AWDTerror]

you have a wideband?

[Zixxspeed]

Had mine installed for more then 6 months with no fuel cut and no issues. I bought a MBC but didn't use it. Both ATP BCD and MBC will be up for sale soon.

illb interested on the atp bcd..

[Rican219]

illb interested on the atp bcd..

PM me and I will give you a price

[blackwidow]

Mine is for sale
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123700934

[alsaez]

never mind
sold