1.8L + unichip?

[sephiroth]

I have some spare cash, not enough to do a full MTX swap, nor enough to slap on a turbo (which would destroy my ATX tranny anyway, and I'd need EM anyway).. I have bolt on's already, I/H/E, and Since the price of a unichip has dropped to 6 bills on protege garage I have a couple questions.

1, on average, to re-map the unit from the MSP profiles to one that my engine can use, how much would that tunning session cost at a local shop (ballpark figures)
2, is expecting 9-15whp gains tunned for 93 octane un-reasonable to expect?
3, if anyone lives around me that knows of a good shop to take it to, or someplace I can mail it to be tunned can you point me in the right direction?

Thanks for any insight.

[zoompastu]

Hello it's cold in the 1.8l world. No one has any love for us even though we have 2.0l with longer rods to destroke us to a 1.8L. Witht that off my chest because of the ATX your screwed unless you do standalone engine magement. So I would recomend getting the FS-ZE intake cam and the unorthadox racing crank pulley. You can get them both from Corksport and other venders. I am doing the cam next.
Also Pull off your header and port the exaughst side of the head. Good difference in torque but don't match port it to the gasket. And do you have the longer reach spark plugs? that helps a lot too. Go to the part store and order normal NGK plugs for a 1991 honda Accord with the 2.2L 4cyl (engine code f22a1) toss those in and you'll be happy.
Mazda was IGNERANT and didn't supply our cars with a fuel fillter and our injectors are more prone to clogging up. Get The injectors cleaned with a machine called a MOTOR VAC. If the shop you go to desn't clean them by hooking up to the fuel rail then its not going to do what you want it to do.

That should put a grin on your face A LOT more then messin with the unichip even if it did work out of the box for your car. The crank pulley will free up 3-5whp and the cam is suppose to do 8-12whp so with your I/H/E you could get about 13-21whp plus what ever you get with the plugs and injectors.

Did I mention I'm A BMW Tech....PM me if you get any Questions. have fun with the 1.8!!(beer)

[zoompastu]

One more thing. AND READ THE WHOLE THING I'll explain at the end. Take the intake tempature sensor on your intake(between the MAF and the filter) and move it down to the fender right behind the headlight in that space below the headlight or if your intake is just the short style then theres a circle cut out below the coolant resivoir toss it down there. then take a old sparkplug and put it in the hole on the intake where the sensor was supposed to be.
Now unplug your battery both the positive and the negitive terminals. hold the positive in one hand and The negitive in the other. now hold the two terminals together so there making contact for 40 seconds. then plug the battery back together. This rests the ECU. You won't feel anything at first when you drive it for the first time but the computer will relearn its self and use the extra timing you gave it.
Ok the intake air temp sensor helps the ECU determin ignition timing. Mazda Retarded the timing to the extream on our cars. so this will advance the timing just like one of the things that happens when a car gets "chipped". Now this only hepls it dosen't mean that its the same thing. there's more to it than that.
But this will help with Mid range power to Redline. your welcome:)

[Shift2xlr8]

If the 1.8's are the same other than the rods...couldn't you do the JDM higher compression pistons that CorkSport or Protege Garage has for realatively cheap and gain a bit from those? And yes the intake cam will gain a butt load, along with the spark plugs. The underdrive pulley will help significantly like he said. Let us know if you do these mods and the gains you get from them.

Chris

[CaliAv8r]

what about the cam shaft for the 1.8, it seems like a cheaper upgrade for roughly the same power boost.

[CaliAv8r]

I also heard that with the crank pulley, the alternator does not create as much power so if you had a sound system thats decent, you would have problems. Also, A/c is pretty much non-existant.

[mike2225]

I have some spare cash, not enough to do a full MTX swap, nor enough to slap on a turbo (which would destroy my ATX tranny anyway, and I'd need EM anyway).. I have bolt on's already, I/H/E, and Since the price of a unichip has dropped to 6 bills on protege garage I have a couple questions.

1, on average, to re-map the unit from the MSP profiles to one that my engine can use, how much would that tunning session cost at a local shop (ballpark figures)
2, is expecting 9-15whp gains tunned for 93 octane un-reasonable to expect?
3, if anyone lives around me that knows of a good shop to take it to, or someplace I can mail it to be tunned can you point me in the right direction?

Thanks for any insight.
I have a 2002 es 2.0L, ive tried the unichip route, it wont work unless you use the mazdaspeed ecu.I went to a shop in CT that can make custom maps for the unichip and we couldnt get it to work.You could use the mpi tuner which i use, or get a standalone like Haltech or Microtech.

[Not Jo3L]

I also heard that with the crank pulley, the alternator does not create as much power so if you had a sound system thats decent, you would have problems. Also, A/c is pretty much non-existant.

Thats why Im not sure if running a UDP is wise with a 1000watt sound system for me.