View Full Version : Endlinks....the battle to end them all!
Magus
05-07-2007, 01:31 AM
So I got a Progress rear sway bar and I am trying to put it on. I have used PB blaster as well WD-40. I have let them sit for several hours (might let it sit over night). I have a feeling I am going to have to get AWR endlinks and get these pieces of crap off. I think I could cut off the bottom nut, but I am wondering if it's safe to go after the one near the strut? I see a brake line nearby! I figure I am going to dremel them junks off, is that what most people did on here? Oh and forget the stock links, crappy design and weak looking!
Magus
jeg0024
05-07-2007, 01:37 AM
Stock endlinks can be hell to get off without an air gun or something. My rears took forever to get them off and I know next time I go in there if I have the same problems those nuts are too torn up and they wont be comming off. You can move the brake line out of the way if need be, just remove the little clip and slide the line away so you dont mess it up. The top endlink nut was acually the harder one to get off for me though, just imagine trying to get those nuts loose with already having the strut unbolted and hanging there, its not fun. I would just recomend cutting the nuts/threads off and replacing the endlinks, its probably what im gonna do next time I have a suspension job to do.
whitemp5seattle
05-07-2007, 01:51 AM
just fyi the progress rear sway bar was designed to work with the stock p5 endlinks. Might as well buy new endlinks from onlinemazdaparts.com. Or if you have access to air tools, the trick is to go back and forth on the nut soaked in PB Blaster. You really gotta work the stuff in there. Eventually it will come off.
jeg0024
05-07-2007, 01:54 AM
just fyi the progress rear sway bar was designed to work with the stock p5 endlinks. Might as well buy new endlinks from onlinemazdaparts.com. Or if you have access to air tools, the trick is to go back and forth on the nut soaked in PB Blaster. You really gotta work the stuff in there. Eventually it will come off.
Still, with the air tools... the threads also move, so if you happen to break loose the thread along with the nut the air tools are no good. I broke the nut and thread lose on one and had no choice but to sit there with an open-face wrench and an allen wrench in the thread and slowly get the nut off. 1/4 turn at a time is no fun at all!
Rome04
05-07-2007, 09:56 AM
I just installed my illuminas in the rear the other day and I ended up just cutting off the stock endlinks I knew they wouldn't come off so i prepared by getting the AWR ones. The threads broke with the nut and I was screwed, those things rust up like theres no tomorrow! I would prepare to have them not come off.
Magus
05-07-2007, 10:15 AM
I realize that the Progessive bar was made for the the P5, but for $10 more I can have the AWR adjustables that have a better bolt design and thicker bar between the strut and bar. I think I am going to be autoXing so I think it would make sense to go ahead and get them.
It sounds like I will be cutting them off. (dark)
Magus
mpvpsu
05-07-2007, 08:45 PM
Cover anything you don't want metal getting into,especially calipers, and use a good cut off wheel. I took mine off in about 2 min per side, and the ARW's were a good decision for me, you can feel the diff. right away
Magus
05-07-2007, 09:09 PM
What should you cover them with (what type of material)? Is news paper good enough?
Magus
mpvpsu
05-08-2007, 04:26 PM
I used a couple of old T Shirts. Do you self a favor and just throw them out when you're done, if you get any metal on the shirt or what ever you use, it tends to stick and can do damage if it's used to clean something else later on. But a few pages of news paper should work, or a card board box, just as long as you keed the caliper piston from getting anything on them. Good luck, post a few pics when you're done.
Magus
05-09-2007, 10:56 AM
Oh Trust me, I been taking pics.
Already there:X3 Racing CAI (Injen design) with AEM Bypass
UR UDP--installed
SLS Motor Mounts--installed
MX-6 Rear Strut Bar--waiting for install time
Progress Rear Sway Bar--waiting for Endlinks
AWR Endlinks--shipping
Next thing wanted:OBX header and RB exhaust
Magus
mpvpsu
05-09-2007, 09:20 PM
I've been looking at a UDP have you noticed anything since you put it on?
Magus
05-11-2007, 11:28 PM
mpvpsu,
Yes I have noticed a difference. I noticed that A/C does not affect my car hardly at all power wise. I have noticed it's tach flys up and down much faster. I also feel that with my CAI and this, it makes it very clear I need to get a header. I can tell the car is choking (running good) on the exhaust. With just the CAI, UR UDP, and SLS motor mounts my wife says it acting more like a sports car. Well more power is on hold till I get the handling mods on. Just make sure your accessory belts are tight enough, I had a bear of a time getting that to happen.
Magus
jeg0024
05-12-2007, 01:00 AM
mpvpsu,
Yes I have noticed a difference. I noticed that A/C does not affect my car hardly at all power wise. I have noticed it's tach flys up and down much faster. I also feel that with my CAI and this, it makes it very clear I need to get a header. I can tell the car is choking (running good) on the exhaust. With just the CAI, UR UDP, and SLS motor mounts my wife says it acting more like a sports car. Well more power is on hold till I get the handling mods on. Just make sure your accessory belts are tight enough, I had a bear of a time getting that to happen.
Magus
Where did you get your UR UDP? And how much was it? Im looking to get one, im assuming you installed it yourself?
Magus
05-16-2007, 05:09 PM
I got my UR UDP from protegegarage.com
$189.99 with free shipping
Yes I put it on myself.
Magus
jeg0024
05-16-2007, 06:07 PM
I got my UR UDP from protegegarage.com
$189.99 with free shipping
Yes I put it on myself.
Magus
Sounds like I might be doing that soon. Hows the endlinks and stuff comming around? Pics?
hotrippr
05-16-2007, 07:13 PM
I am planning on getting the 19mm AWr rear swaybar. AWR site mentions other makes and years to get different endlinks. So will I also need to replace the end links? And does anyone know if the swaybar comes with everything I will need to replace it with?
DeadGeneration
05-16-2007, 07:16 PM
I hate the AWR rear sway and end links. Garbage IMO
i12drivemyMP5
05-16-2007, 07:26 PM
If you get the endlinks off then try using antiseize stuff on them putting them back just in case they need to come off later. Make sure to do the clunk fix if going with AWR endlinks.....search. Have had all 4 endlinks off once to do lowering springs on oem struts then again when switching to illuminas years later without issue but my car is garaged & don't live where nasty salt action is issue from winter or from living at beach. Sorry, I know that helps not.
hotrippr
05-16-2007, 08:16 PM
after searching, I think I may be leaning towards the Progress bar. I am planning on eibach pro kit and havent decided on which struts yet. But seems some have had ease with progress combined with eibach pro. When and how does the clunk occur? How loud? So the Progress can use only stock endlinks?...read on another thread somewhere.
hotrippr
06-03-2007, 12:10 AM
I hate the AWR rear sway and end links. Garbage IMO
Why are the AWR end links garbage? They must at least be better (stronger) than stock.?. Please elaborate.
Familia323
06-03-2007, 12:21 AM
The ones that I have with my 21.5mm bar SQUEAK like MAD. It annoys the hell out of me. I can lightly press on the back of my car and the thing makes a noise that can easily be heard across the street, no exaggeration. Plus, the "adjustable" allen heads that connect the links to the bar have all rusted solid making it unadjustable. Do yourself a favor and buy new stock endlinks if you can't reuse the old ones. My car sounds like a POS with the AWR endlinks..... and yes I have tried numerous times, putting all different types of lubricants on the endlinks.. none have lasted longer than 6 months before they started squeaking again.
I actually have the progressive bar in my trunk with stock endlinks.. I am just waiting until I have the time to replace the AWR stuff.
hotrippr
06-03-2007, 02:07 PM
I actually have the progressive bar in my trunk with stock endlinks.. I am just waiting until I have the time to replace the AWR stuff.
Thanks, I was wondering about it beacause the stock end links look kinda whimpy to add a strong swaybar to. I am awaiting delivery for my progress bar tomorrow. Looks like if they break because of the added stress of the Progress bar I will just go back to the stock bar since AWR isn't so good.
scuzzer99
06-09-2007, 02:19 AM
So I got a Progress rear sway bar and I am trying to put it on. I have used PB blaster as well WD-40. I have let them sit for several hours (might let it sit over night). I have a feeling I am going to have to get AWR endlinks and get these pieces of crap off. I think I could cut off the bottom nut, but I am wondering if it's safe to go after the one near the strut? I see a brake line nearby! I figure I am going to dremel them junks off, is that what most people did on here? Oh and forget the stock links, crappy design and weak looking!
Magus
new adjustable links check them out...GROUP BUY!!!! no noise
DeadGeneration
06-09-2007, 09:41 AM
new adjustable links check them out...GROUP BUY!!!! no noise
I hope these work out better then the AWR do
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123671622
scuzzer99
06-09-2007, 02:01 PM
I hope these work out better then the AWR do
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123671622
2nd day & they are working fine... no noise.
Familia323
06-10-2007, 10:29 AM
2nd day & they are working fine... no noise.Let us know how it goes. Those eye bolts look very close to the ones that squeak on the AWR endlinks.
And I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but it took a little over a few months before they collected enough dirt to start squeaking. I think the biggest issue here is that ALL of the adjustable endlinks that I've seen do not have some type of protective cover around their movable parts. This allows dirt to penetrate into the cracks and crevices which will create friction and cause squeaks. anyway (stfu) I'll shut up now....
I really hope they do work out for you though. It would be nice to have some adjustables that didn't eventually sound like you had birds in your trunk.
scuzzer99
06-10-2007, 02:29 PM
Let us know how it goes. Those eye bolts look very close to the ones that squeak on the AWR endlinks.
And I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but it took a little over a few months before they collected enough dirt to start squeaking. I think the biggest issue here is that ALL of the adjustable endlinks that I've seen do not have some type of protective cover around their movable parts. This allows dirt to penetrate into the cracks and crevices which will create friction and cause squeaks. anyway (stfu) I'll shut up now....
I really hope they do work out for you though. It would be nice to have some adjustables that didn't eventually sound like you had birds in your trunk.
thats good to know! Thanks, but the guy that built them has been doing them on miatas for years & he never said anything about any noise. I will try to keep everyone posted on the noise (road dirt makes since- after a couple months driving)
scuzzer99
06-15-2007, 06:53 PM
TTT-
update:
7 days of driving & no noise (just a BUMP update)
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