HOW TO: Change your own oil

[dommo_g]

Note: I originally posted this in the Mazda5 section, but it's been confirmed that the procedure is the same for the Speed3, and I would guess the N/A 3.
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9/29/07: Another note, it's recommended to replace the crush washer on the drain plug. It's an aluminum washer that is apparently only good for one tightening. The drain plug doesn't have a built in rubber washer like other cars. These can be had from the dealer's parts department also. They rip you off on them, so I'm going to see about finding another source for these. A fair price would be about a quarter each, not the dollar something the dealer charges.
------------------

Some people would rather pay the dealer or a quick change place to go through the trouble of getting the dirty stuff out, and clean stuff in. For those that would rather not trust the local Grease Monkeys, here's what you'll need to do:

What you'll need:

17mm socket
10mm socket or nut driver
Small flathead screwdriver or panel clip puller
6mm Allen wrench
Oil filter wrench, rubber strap wrench, or one of these (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/OilfilterwrenchB.gif)
Jack and stands, or ramps
Oil filter kit (Mazda part# L321 14 302 9U)
6 quarts of your favorite oil. You really should be using synthetic. And no, Mobil1 ISN'T full synthetic anymore.
Paper shop towels
Rubber gloves to make clean up easier

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange020Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange020Small.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange017Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange017Small.jpg)

First thing to do is to get the car off the ground. I prefer ramps, but a jack with stands will do just fine. Use the proper jacking method outlined in the owners manual.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange003Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange003Small.jpg)

After the car is safely raised, you'll need to remove the plastic engine cover from under the engine. It is held in place by 7 10mm bolts, and 2 plastic expansion panel clips. There is also a tab/slot on each rear corner by the wheels that needs to be removed. The 10mm bolts aren't on very tight, and you may prefer to use a nut driver over the clumsiness of a ratchet on loose bolts.
There are 3 bolts along the front edge of the cover just to the rear of the bottom edge of the bumper, and 2 on the rear sides, near each wheel.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange024Large.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange024Large.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange023Large.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange023Large.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange029Large.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange029Large.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange030Large.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange030Large.jpg)


The 2 expansion clips are located on each front corner of the engine cover. They are in two parts. You'll need to pry out the center to release the clip. You can use a small flatblade screwdriver and gently pry the center, moving from side to side, or you can use an interior clip remover if you have one.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange022Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange022Medium.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange021Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange021Medium.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange026Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange026Medium.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange027Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange027Medium.jpg)

OK, now you're ready to drain the oil. I like to remove the oil filler cap just enough to relieve vacuum when the oil is draining, to let it drain easier and more thoroughly.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange002Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange002Small.jpg)

Use the 17mm socket to remove the oil pan drain plug. The drain plug faces the rear of the car.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange011Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange011Small.jpg)
Make sure to have a couple shop towels handy here.
Once you loosen it up with the first turn, put your socket down and loosen the rest by hand. You'll need to move it away quickly once it's out of the hole so the oil can stream steady into your drain pan. Make sure to keep an eye on the draining oil so that the stream doesn't move out of the way of your drain pan opening and start to spill on the floor. I usually let the oil drain for a little bit, to get the most out of the engine. It may be a good time for one of these:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/th_DSC00005.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/DSC00005.jpg)

Once the oil has stopped draining, clean off the drain plug and replace it. Get it hand tight, and give it another 1/4-1/2 turn.

Use whatever tool you have to loosen the oil filter housing about 1 to 1 1/2 turns. The cartridge filter housing is spring loaded, so the goal here is to loosen it just enough to relieve spring pressure on the filter element so the oil can drain properly. Then take the 6mm Allen wrench and remove the drain plug in the middle of the filter housing. This is where the oil from the filter will drain out, so be prepared with your oil pan. Again, once it starts draining, you can leave it for a little while to drain completely. Once it finishes, there will still be some oil in the housing. Remove it from the engine, and place it upside down on your oil pan.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange012Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange012Small.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange013Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange013Small.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange031Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange031Medium.jpg)

Remove the old filter from the housing and dispose of properly. Use shop towels to clean the inside of the housing, the drain plug, and the filter cavity on the engine. Take your new filter kit and replace both O-rings, one on the drain plug, and one on the housing. Dip your finger in a bottle of your new oil and coat the O-rings before putting them in place. A small flat head screwdriver makes getting them in place easier, but be careful not to damage them. Place the new filter element onto the housing, and push it firmly in place. Reinstall the housing to the engine, and tighten the drain plug. Torque specs are stamped on the housing.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange015Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange015Small.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange032Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange032Medium.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange034Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange034Medium.jpg)

Use a funnel to add the the oil to the engine. Most people are saying the Speed3 will take between 5.5 and 6 quarts. With most cars, I don't use a funnel, but if you spill oil, you'll have to go through the hassle of cleaning up your mess.
Tighten the filler cap, close the hood, and start the engine. Let it run for about a minute then shut it off. Check for leaks under the car. You rock, so there should be none.
Replace the lower cover using the reverse of the removal process. Lower your car from the ramps or jack stands.

Finished! Now just decide whether you ever want to do this again!

[dommo_g]

Like I said, this was originally done for a Mazda5, so let me know if any edits need to be made, and I'll change it.

[Nutari]

Weird.. my speed 3 takes 6 qts of oil..

[SharkDiver]

Weird.. my speed 3 takes 6 qts of oil..
Yup..5.7qts or something like that I think.I havent did mine yet tho.

[BuckDich]

What are some other things that are good to check while changing your oil that most dealerships/lube places will do for you? Just the basic fluids?

Also, does this void your warranty doing it yourself? I've talked to some GM mechanics and their dealership subscribed to this policy. Not sure...

[dommo_g]

In no way will changing your oil void any factory warranty. Unless you forget small things like putting the drain plug back on, then try to have them warranty your brokeded engine.

[dommo_g]

Made a couple edits. Let me know if anything else needs changed. After my first change, I'll update the pics.

[MM3Canuck]

Nice write up!

I always check the oil using the dipstick after lowering the car back on level ground. Just to have that last bit of piece of mind !! (rtfm)

[B1GHAM]

6 quarts of your favorite oil. You really should be using synthetic. And no, Mobil1 ISN'T full synthetic anymore.



so..... ummm.... where are you getting this little tid-bit of info?

Mobil1 w/ supersyn is infact fully synthetic motor oil....

if you have real proof of any different please post, I cant see where this info is coming from.

[SharkDiver]

I know mobil sued castro for saying that there syntec is full synthetic when it isnt and won.I cant see mobil doing the same thing now.
Im going to need to see some proof of this also.

[M3_Zoom]

I know mobil sued castro for saying that there syntec is full synthetic when it isnt and won.I cant see mobil doing the same thing now.
Im going to need to see some proof of this also.

Mobil went after Castrol for the Syntec Blend not Castrols full synthetic. Castrol has a Syntec Blend that is priced between conventional oil and the full Synthetic. Aparently the ratio of Regular Oil:Synthetic was not a "fair" ratio and thus should not be deemed a Synthetic Blend. Personally I've used Castrol for more years than I care to mention with no problems. Just change your oil with any of the top oil brands every 3000 miles and you will be fine.

[dommo_g]

The only reason I threw that little tidbit in there isn't because I don't like M1. I actually just put M1 into my SRT after 9 oil changes using RP. But I had been reading about the M1 reformulations, and using a group 3 base stock, as opposed to the group 4, even after they claimed that the grp3 wasn't full synthetic. And then the fact that there's a patent application by ExxonMobil pertaining to the use of Group 3 base stock blends. It's all very confusing, and got me kind of irked at Mobil, so that's why that little remark made it in there.

A guy on another board led me here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

[Ms3InMd]

Thanks for this write up, I did my oil change off of this and it worked great. After changing my trucks oil many times with a spin on filter I think I like the canister filter more.

[BlackJack]

So after the oil change, what are you supposed to do with the old oil in the bottle or pan? Just take it to the local shop?

[M3_Zoom]

So after the oil change, what are you supposed to do with the old oil in the bottle or pan? Just take it to the local shop?


They may charge you, but most auto-parts stores will dispose of it for free as long as it's in the proper type of container. I just take my oil pan to my local parts store and dump it. Also you cant take a funnel and poor it back into the new bottles of oil you just used, then drop it off at the parts store.

[BlackJack]

What's the proper type of containers? Like an empty water gallon jug or?

I know I can't reuse the new bottles, cause it's stupid :P

[SAVAGE70]

Hello fellow Spedd3ers whats crackin' ? I was just wondering if the oil filter for a stock 2.3 liter engine is the same as our Speed 3 engines?

[Rotus8]

Hello fellow Spedd3ers whats crackin' ? I was just wondering if the oil filter for a stock 2.3 liter engine is the same as our Speed 3 engines?
Yes it is.

[Sorax]

Just wanted to say thanks for the guide. Changed my oil, for the first time, entirely based off this thread. I made a few mistakes but overall it went very smoothly and in the end I felt my car was well taken care of. 1 question; What is the best way to tell when you put enough oil in? With the range given, I put 6 quarts in and the dipstick now shows a bit over the max line. Is that something I should be worried about?

[Rotus8]

Just wanted to say thanks for the guide. Changed my oil, for the first time, entirely based off this thread. I made a few mistakes but overall it went very smoothly and in the end I felt my car was well taken care of. 1 question; What is the best way to tell when you put enough oil in? With the range given, I put 6 quarts in and the dipstick now shows a bit over the max line. Is that something I should be worried about?
Don't worry about it. Drive it for a while, then let sit for about 10 minutes and check again. It will probably be dead on. A small amount over won't hurt anything.

[dalesd]

Do you think the crews at Jiffy Lube go through all this?

Do they remove the engine undertray? Do they know it needs 6 quarts?

I know it's early, but I'd like to change my oil now, with just 300 miles on the car. The dealer will think I'm nuts, or up to something. Jiffy Lube will probably just think I'm nuts. Most engine wear occurs at initial break-in. The first 200 miles, really. And I'd like to get rid of all that oil ASAP.

So I'm thinking I have to do it myself. Then the regular maintenance intervals will apply from here on out.

[creature75]

has anyone noticed how much oil your speed3 uses?
i checked my oil today due to the fact that i hit the 5000 mile mark and was amazed at how low my oil level was. I checked it after my first oil change that i had done at my local dealer, it was spot on.

[MM3Canuck]

So this is the second time my Mazda3 is leaking oil.
Last time it happened after about 5,000km since the last oil change.
Since I do my own oil changes, and did not have a proper wrench for my oil filter, i guess i did not put enough torque on her.

After that i made sure to make it snug...now again...the same thing..after just about 5,000km.

I just bought the wrench and will make sure to apply the right torque. And see if this works this time.


Anyone else with this problem?

[sephiroth]

I'm not familiar with the catriage system the 3 has, but make sure to apply fresh oil to any gaskets, not doing so may cause small leaking.

how much is leaking? Alot? a little?

if you're using conventional, some oil burning is common.

[sephiroth]

Do you think the crews at Jiffy Lube go through all this?

Do they remove the engine undertray? Do they know it needs 6 quarts?

I know it's early, but I'd like to change my oil now, with just 300 miles on the car. The dealer will think I'm nuts, or up to something. Jiffy Lube will probably just think I'm nuts. Most engine wear occurs at initial break-in. The first 200 miles, really. And I'd like to get rid of all that oil ASAP.

So I'm thinking I have to do it myself. Then the regular maintenance intervals will apply from here on out.

wait until 1000 at least, or until the manual says, and you don't want to go off running out and buying some royal purple (or even any synthetic) for the first 5,000 miles really.. most of the engine break in happens the first 1-2.5K miles, but additional break in happens after that as well, and because of that, high VI oils will prevent said break-in because of their high film stregnth, which is never a good thing.. so if you must change your oil using a good quality conventional, such as some valvoline or castrol GTX.

the OEM oil is crappy not because they cheap out on it, but because it needs to be crappy.

[MM3Canuck]

I'm not familiar with the catriage system the 3 has, but make sure to apply fresh oil to any gaskets, not doing so may cause small leaking.

how much is leaking? Alot? a little?

if you're using conventional, some oil burning is common.


I always do apply oil on the o-rings, also always use new ones.
Its leaking small amount. But it doesnt matter, it shouldnt leak what so ever!!! I hate leaky cars.....my old one did and that is why I got rid of it! (pissed)
Im going to torque it to spec tomorrow after work, and see if it continues to leak.

[dalesd]

So this is the second time my Mazda3 is leaking oil.
Last time it happened after about 5,000km since the last oil change.
Since I do my own oil changes, and did not have a proper wrench for my oil filter, i guess i did not put enough torque on her.

After that i made sure to make it snug...now again...the same thing..after just about 5,000km.

I just bought the wrench and will make sure to apply the right torque. And see if this works this time.

Anyone else with this problem?
Where is it leaking from?

If it's related to the oil change, there are a few places it could be coming from.

First is the filter housing. Did you replace the o-rings? It could leak from the little drain plug in the cap or from the cap itself. Those are o-ring seals, and they look pretty well designed to me. They shouldn't leak unless installed incorrectly or if the o-ring is damaged. I guess the cap or the sealing surface on the engine could be damaged too, but that's unlikely.

The other place is from the drain plug on the oil pan. If that's leaking, it could be loose. If it's loose, it could fall out. If it falls out, you'll have a huge mess, in more ways than one. You'll want to check that out right away.

[gr3y]

I always do apply oil on the o-rings, also always use new ones.
Its leaking small amount. But it doesnt matter, it shouldnt leak what so ever!!! I hate leaky cars.....my old one did and that is why I got rid of it! (pissed)
Im going to torque it to spec tomorrow after work, and see if it continues to leak.

and what is spec?

EDIT* 30-35 Newton Meters.

[sephiroth]

I always do apply oil on the o-rings, also always use new ones.
Its leaking small amount. But it doesnt matter, it shouldnt leak what so ever!!! I hate leaky cars.....my old one did and that is why I got rid of it! (pissed)
Im going to torque it to spec tomorrow after work, and see if it continues to leak.

if you're using aftermarket filters, I've heard they're all not exactly the same size and/or shape as the OEM one , so I could see that most would then leak a small amount . Are you using the OEM filter?

[dalesd]

if you're using aftermarket filters, I've heard they're all not exactly the same size and/or shape as the OEM one , so I could see that most would then leak a small amount . Are you using the OEM filter?

That doesn't seem right. The housing is sealed by o-rings. You could put it back together without a filter and it won't leak.

[MM3Canuck]

Well, yes I am using and replacing the o-rings!!

I bought aftermarket - Fram. I checked under the car today and it was leaking from the main o-ring, where the cartridge meets the metal (engine part). I have done numerous oil changes, and I am 100% sure that I installed the o-ring and oil filter correct. The small drain plug is not leaking...just the main part. I re-torqued it, but it is still leaking.

I bought an OEM Mazda oil filter and some Mobil1 oil to perform another oil change tomorrow. I will let you guys know if this setup with OEM parts holds up longer than 5,000-6,000km's.

[Rotus8]

Well, yes I am using and replacing the o-rings!!

I bought aftermarket - Fram. I checked under the car today and it was leaking from the main o-ring, where the cartridge meets the metal (engine part). I have done numerous oil changes, and I am 100% sure that I installed the o-ring and oil filter correct. The small drain plug is not leaking...just the main part. I re-torqued it, but it is still leaking.

I bought an OEM Mazda oil filter and some Mobil1 oil to perform another oil change tomorrow. I will let you guys know if this setup with OEM parts holds up longer than 5,000-6,000km's.
Check the plastic piece carefully. There have been reports of it cracking when the special wrench has not been used.

[gr3y]

That doesn't seem right. The housing is sealed by o-rings. You could put it back together without a filter and it won't leak.

yeah.. our filter is weird. well, different.. i can't tell if it theres any advantage to it being set up like that or not :P

[MM3Canuck]

Check the plastic piece carefully. There have been reports of it cracking when the special wrench has not been used.

I never used a different wrench, so that shouldnt be an issue. But I will examine it for cracks. It really pisses me off though, that a brand new car leaks oil. I NEVER had problems with the screw on types. If after this oil change the problem occurs again, i might just swtich to screw on type.

What do you think Rotus?

[MM3Canuck]

yeah.. our filter is weird. well, different.. i can't tell if it theres any advantage to it being set up like that or not :P

Dont know either

[Rotus8]

I never used a different wrench, so that shouldnt be an issue. But I will examine it for cracks. It really pisses me off though, that a brand new car leaks oil. I NEVER had problems with the screw on types. If after this oil change the problem occurs again, i might just swtich to screw on type.

What do you think Rotus?
Some people have changed out the filter housing to one that takes a conventional filter. It's from some other Mazda, you will have to search for it. I have no experience so I can't comment on it. I have not had any problem with the stock arrangement, always used the factory filter.

[MM3Canuck]

Some people have changed out the filter housing to one that takes a conventional filter. It's from some other Mazda, you will have to search for it. I have no experience so I can't comment on it. I have not had any problem with the stock arrangement, always used the factory filter.

Okay thanks!

I installed a Mazda filter, fingers are crossed now!

I almost think that the syn oil caused the leak on the aftermarket crap!?
Could that be?

[dalesd]

Okay thanks!

I installed a Mazda filter, fingers are crossed now!

I almost think that the syn oil caused the leak on the aftermarket crap!?
Could that be?

Again, I don't see how that could happen. The filter area is sealed by o-rings, not by the filter.

Did you replace the o-rings when you replaced the filter? How did the old o-rings look? Any cuts or nicks? Any signs of distress at all? How did the filter cap look? Did you check that for cracks?

[MM3Canuck]

Again, I don't see how that could happen. The filter area is sealed by o-rings, not by the filter.

Did you replace the o-rings when you replaced the filter? How did the old o-rings look? Any cuts or nicks? Any signs of distress at all? How did the filter cap look? Did you check that for cracks?



Geez, how many times have I said that I used NEW o-rings? 3 or 4 times....YES I replaced the o-rings. And i kow that the filter does not seal it...obviously. Old ones looked fine...the only thing i was surprised about, they were flat. Which would make sense since they are compressed in there, BUT I would think that their flexible characteristic would make them go back to their natural 'roundness' afterwards. Filter caps seemed to be in perfect shape and condition.

[rumble rider]

Check the plastic piece carefully. There have been reports of it cracking when the special wrench has not been used.

where would you buy this special wrench? and does it have a part #?

TIA

[MM3Canuck]

where would you buy this special wrench? and does it have a part #?

TIA

I bought mine from the dealer.

The first post in this thread has a link to a picture that shows the part #.

[Rotus8]

where would you buy this special wrench? and does it have a part #?

TIA
Check the very first post in this thread. It has a picture of the wrench with the Mazda part number, plus it even has some specs on the label. You can get it from one of our sponsors. At one time there was a deal if you bought several filters (6 I think) they threw in the wrench.

[Vindikacione]

Wassup Fellow Zoom-Zoom Owners,

I got a US-Spec MS3. I live in Germany. I drive fast (130-145mph) on the autobahn whenever possible. The car likes it. I like it. Everyone in the car with me likes it. All the slow Beemers and other sorry Euro cars like it too. I hate truckers though, they always force me to crisp my rotors.

Anyway, I got a Pela oil vaccuum. I haven't used it yet. I want to know if anyone else has one and used it on their MS3. Are there drawbacks to this route versus old school method. Mercedez swears by this method.

Thanks in advance

[MM3Canuck]

Wassup Fellow Zoom-Zoom Owners,

I got a US-Spec MS3. I live in Germany. I drive fast (130-145mph) on the autobahn whenever possible. The car likes it. I like it. Everyone in the car with me likes it. All the slow Beemers and other sorry Euro cars like it too. I hate truckers though, they always force me to crisp my rotors.

Anyway, I got a Pela oil vaccuum. I haven't used it yet. I want to know if anyone else has one and used it on their MS3. Are there drawbacks to this route versus old school method. Mercedez swears by this method.

Thanks in advance

Whats a Pela oil vaccuum?

[Vindikacione]

Its what guys with big diesel boats use to suck their old dirty oil from their engines. Check out www.pelaproducts.com. I got the Big Pela 650 (7 liter system). I read somewhere that Mazda doesn't require a filter change at every oil change, reducing the time it takes to take off the undercarriage cover. I'm lazy like most other people on this forum, so if I don't need to get under and I can stay on top, then life is good. You know what I mean?

[sephiroth]

Its what guys with big diesel boats use to suck their old dirty oil from their engines. Check out www.pelaproducts.com. I got the Big Pela 650 (7 liter system). I read somewhere that Mazda doesn't require a filter change at every oil change, reducing the time it takes to take off the undercarriage cover. I'm lazy like most other people on this forum, so if I don't need to get under and I can stay on top, then life is good. You know what I mean?

well, no car really requires a filter change, you can still unplug the drain and re-fill with new oil..but it's a great idea of change it anyway.

[major error]

Came across this while looking for a RP distributor: http://www.trufilter.com/

I'm curious to see if they've made one to fit our vehicles...

[sephiroth]

Came across this while looking for a RP distributor: http://www.trufilter.com/

I'm curious to see if they've made one to fit our vehicles...
umm... yes?


TFSD21 is the part number,

it goes for $162 at jegs
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_760975_-1

[Rotus8]

umm... yes?


TFSD21 is the part number,

it goes for $162 at jegs
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_760975_-1

It won't fit the 2.3 or the speed unless converted to a spin on.

[tbrocato]

does anyone know if they changed the oil filter from the one in the pic ? from mazda

[major error]

It won't fit the 2.3 or the speed unless converted to a spin on.
...and that's what I wanted to know.
I was hoping since it was a cartridge-based replacement system, one could just pop in a TF core instead of the OEM part.

I suppose I'll do a couple of oil changes myself before I decide to do a spin-on conversion.

[tbrocato]

when tighting the housing...it says 30 newtons ? How much tighting is that ? I normally tighten the housing as much as I can with my hand then tighten it like 1/2 ... 3/4 turn with the wrench tighter... should that be ok ?

[///M Compact]

when tighting the housing...it says 30 newtons ? How much tighting is that ? I normally tighten the housing as much as I can with my hand then tighten it like 1/2 ... 3/4 turn with the wrench tighter... should that be ok ?

That's a very good way to crack the housing. The o-ring provides the seal so all you need to do is snug it down. You might want to use a torque wrench until you get a feel for how tight the housing needs to be.

[pmeilakjr]

30 Newtons is 20 Foot lbs or 240 inch pound
10 newtons is 7.3 Foot lbs or 88 inch pounds

Cheers!

Peter

[dalesd]

Newtons are units of force. Newton meters are units of torque.

[Tronix102]

just changed my oil ... man its time consuming too ... I bought ramps also for 50 bux so i'm sure it helped rather than jacking the car up

[mghunt]

Wassup Fellow Zoom-Zoom Owners,
...
Anyway, I got a Pela oil vaccuum. I haven't used it yet. I want to know if anyone else has one and used it on their MS3. Are there drawbacks to this route versus old school method. Mercedez swears by this method.

Thanks in advance

I have a Pela oil extractor. It is the 6L model that looks like a little sphere. Honestly, I think it was the best tool investment I made. I've used it on my Passat 1.8t, my old Golf TDI with a cartridge filter, and numerous friends cars. It is really nice if you are doing multiple cars at once. Another bonus is that you can change the oil when the car is warm. The great thing is that the container doesn't leak like those crappy drain containers. I remember the first time I walked into the parts store to dump my oil, the parts guys were all curious what it was.

I plan to use it on the MS3 too. Haven't hit the 5k mark yet, but I will in a few weeks. I plan to use one of the Napa Gold filters (Wix).

[dommo_g]

[QUOTE=tbrocato;3385391]does anyone know if they changed the oil filter from the one in the pic ? from mazda[/QUOTE

It's the same filter.

[dalesd]

Wassup Fellow Zoom-Zoom Owners,
Anyway, I got a Pela oil vaccuum. I haven't used it yet. I want to know if anyone else has one and used it on their MS3. Are there drawbacks to this route versus old school method. Mercedez swears by this method.

Thanks in advance

The criticism I've heard for oil vacuum systems is that if there's anything that has settled in the pan, it won't get removed. It's going to leave the stuff at the bottom of the oil pan. Arguably, that's the stuff you really want to remove.

[Vindikacione]

That does makes sense, but is gravity a greater force than vacuum? I thought vacuum was stronger. Perhaps gravity retains the heavier particles and only the liquid gets sucked by the vacuum. Any physics majors out there?

[mghunt]

You are supposed to run the engine before sucking the oil out. The engine is supposed to be warm when you use the vacuum extraction method. If this is the case, any particulates should be suspended in the oil when it is sucked out.

-Mark

[Vindikacione]

I buy in to that theory.

[MM3Canuck]

just changed my oil ... man its time consuming too ... I bought ramps also for 50 bux so i'm sure it helped rather than jacking the car up

It really isnt once you neatly widen that service hole, it will allow you to change the oil and filter without having to take off the bottom plastic cover.

[blacksheepms3]

I used this how to thread when changing my oil. it was excellent and informative. Thanks a lot. The longest part of doin this was jacking up the car.

[Young Roids]

Check the very first post in this thread. It has a picture of the wrench with the Mazda part number, plus it even has some specs on the label. You can get it from one of our sponsors. At one time there was a deal if you bought several filters (6 I think) they threw in the wrench.

What sponsor has it? I know that the filter is supposed to be torqued to 20 ft-lbs but is that tighter than hand tight? Because I bought this spider type oil wrench and it only loosens not tighten so I am wondering if I need to return it and get the one from Mazda.

[MM3Canuck]

Update:
After using the OEM Mazda oil filter for 8000km, I had no leaks what so ever. So my advice, do not buy any after market cartridge filters, especially FRAM filters. They will start leaking after a few thousand kilometres.

Dennis

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

It seems to me that the only way an aftermarket filter could cause a leak in a system like that on the Speed3 is if the filter was slightly longer than stock. This would prevent the cover from sealing tightly against the base. On the other hand, if the filter was shorter than specified, you might have a situation where there were no leaks to the outside, but internally some of the oil is blowing right by the cartridge and back into the engine.
The more I think about it, the more I think I'm going to convert to spin on.

[Ronin1]

What's the proper type of containers? Like an empty water gallon jug or?

I know I can't reuse the new bottles, cause it's stupid :P
I use an old 2.5 gallon gas can for waste oil. It's painted flat black with "waste oil only" on it.
With three cars and two bikes I generate my share of waste oil.

Jim

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

I use an old 2.5 gallon gas can for waste oil. It's painted flat black with "waste oil only" on it.
With three cars and two bikes I generate my share of waste oil.
Jim

That is an excellent suggestion. With a car, truck, motorcycle, assorted yard equipment, I will definitely put that to use. Thank you.

[dabears2k]

I tried to do this today and could not get the cartridge loose for the life of me. Every time I would get the black plastic thingy on there and go to losen it, it would just slip off...

[Young Roids]

I tried to do this today and could not get the cartridge loose for the life of me. Every time I would get the black plastic thingy on there and go to losen it, it would just slip off...

What were you using to get it loose? Was it the MAzda tool?

[dabears2k]

What were you using to get it loose? Was it the MAzda tool?

No, generic tool that had the same size.

[Young Roids]

No, generic tool that had the same size.

That's what the guy at the auto parts store told me that they usally just slip off. I would say try to get the Mazda tool and hopefully that one wont slip. Here is a link to a good deal on it. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=376084&siteid=214328&catalogid=4249

[spar]

Does anyone know where I can buy oil filters in bulk?

[Falconx84]

Does anyone know where I can buy oil filters in bulk?

try clicking the link right above your post

[Falconx84]

No, generic tool that had the same size.

make sure you have the right tool. I bought a generic tool from advance auto and they had a 15 flute in a 14 flute package. The way to check and make sure its the right one, look on the inside of the cup and it should say something like:

_14
74/76

At least I believe thats the right size. My dealer quoted me $30 for the cup wrench and it was a "special order item" and I told him that was ridiculous and went to advance and paid $4.98

[fasteract]

Check on eBay or save a Search for them so eBay emails you when they show up...I got a dozen filters about 3 weeks ago for $48.00 + shipping, OEM Mazda.




Payment Details

Purchased From:http://images.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gifrspsapTransaction ID:http://images.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gif50K218110D297613E
Item #Item TitleQuantityPriceSubtotal16018934375212 MAZDA OEM OIL FILTERS FOR 2.3L mazda 3 &6&speed6 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160189343752)1$48.50 USD$48.50 USD

[Falconx84]

I hesitate to buy in bulk because I'd hate to have a few yrs worth of filter when they come out with an even better one.... cause thats my luck, you know?

[chronus377]

Just changed mine for the first time today. It went pretty smooth. I've changed oil on many cars before, but this write up helped me since the mazda is a little different than those cars.


Thanks!

[whitemp5seattle]

wow thanks for the write up! I didn't know the 3 takes almost 6 quarts! What an oil hog...the protege5 only used 4. This makes oil changes a little more expensive lol

[tubebrner]

Only the Speed3 takes 6 quarts (or 5.7, I think)

[08cosmic3]

http://www.mazdaparts.org/genuine-mazda-oilfilter.html


Does anyone know where I can buy oil filters in bulk?

[whitemp5seattle]

wow that's even cheaper than this one

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=376084&siteid=214328&catalogid=4249

[RichB]

http://www.mazdaparts.org/genuine-mazda-oilfilter.html

I know these filters work for the mazdaspeed 3, but is that wrench the right one?

[08cosmic3]

Worked for me. Nice snug fit.



I know these filters work for the mazdaspeed 3, but is that wrench the right one?

[RichB]

Worked for me. Nice snug fit.

Awsome.... Thanks

[gr3y]

Only the Speed3 takes 6 quarts (or 5.7, I think)

You use so much oil, turbo.. but I still <3 you.

[RichB]

I want to thank everyone in this thread especially dommo_g for such an awsome write up. I was able to knock out my first Speed 3 oil change quickly and efficiently. I was also able to get some filters in bulk with a free filter wrench with information posted here. Thanks guys!!!!!!!

[certz666]

It really isnt once you neatly widen that service hole, it will allow you to change the oil and filter without having to take off the bottom plastic cover.

Yeah, I widened the hole so I'm not taking off the bottom tray everytime, much easier. But why is the hole offset in the first place, fits another 3 or is the standard 3's filter located there????

[Zeya]

9/29/07: Another note, it's recommended to replace the crush washer on the drain plug. It's an aluminum washer that is apparently only good for one tightening. The drain plug doesn't have a built in rubber washer like other cars. These can be had from the dealer's parts department also. They rip you off on them, so I'm going to see about finding another source for these. A fair price would be about a quarter each, not the dollar something the dealer charges.


I'm about to do my first oil change. Can anyone shed some light on the washer mentioned in the quote above? I don't see where in the original post this washer comes into play. Also, I don't want to drain my oil and run into a situation where I can't put the drain plug back on properly due to a missing washer. Do you guys know what size the washer is? I saw some next to the oil wrenches at the auto store, so maybe I can get a pack of washers there.

Speaking of oil wrenches, I just bought a generic oil filter wrench. Will this be enough, or do I REALLY need that special mazda thing? (I also have a socket wrench and a torque wrench.)

[08cosmic3]

Get the wrench from Mazda. Below is were I got mine. The kit is a great deal but the washers seam high. I bought them anyway so I know I'm getting all my oil change parts from mazda and will not have to worry about warranty issues. These parts are from the same dealer.

http://www.mazdaparts.org/genuine-mazda-oilfilter.html

http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-pan-drain-plug-washer.html

[Zeya]

Get the wrench from Mazda. Below is were I got mine. The kit is a great deal but the washers seam high. I bought them anyway so I know I'm getting all my oil change parts from mazda and will not have to worry about warranty issues. These parts are from the same dealer.

http://www.mazdaparts.org/genuine-mazda-oilfilter.html

http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-pan-drain-plug-washer.html

Thanks. But do I REALLY need that special mazda wrench part? I mean, can someone tell me that a regular generic oil wrench will not work? I'd rather spend 6 bucks within walking distance of my place instead of driving way out and paying top dollar for four expensive mazda filters just to get some silly wrench thing.

And if someone knows of another source for these washers, please post. Or if someone knows the size or whatever...

[08cosmic3]

The wrench is FREE when you buy a set of filters. 5 filters and a FREE wrench for $23.80 plus shipping. If you can't afford that you should have bought a cheaper car. You won't find the filters any cheaper than that.

I would use the Mazda wrench due to people cracking the plastic housing on the filter cover. Your oil will leak out fast and your $22,000 car will need a new $5000 engine. It has happened many times due to using the wrong wrench and/or over tightening the filter housing.

If I were you I would go to Wal Mart and buy a cheap wrench. Whats life with out a little risk.

Good Luck.

[Rivman]

The aluminum gasket for the oil drain bolt is available in a bulk pack of 5 - Genuine Mazda # 99564-1400.
You may find nylon washers in the same size that would be cheaper and reusable each oil change.
The other thing I noticed was that the green "o" rings (large and small) supplied with filters are a little smaller than originals.
You can also use a Ford filter kit (ZZCA-23-802) in the 2.3L engine.
The filter cartridge in the container is spring loaded and must be pushed up to engage the threads in the oil filter housing.
The most time consuming part of the whole procedure is the removal and re-installation of the engine splash pan. (dunno)

[Rotus8]

The aluminum gasket for the oil drain bolt is available in a bulk pack of 5 - Genuine Mazda # 99564-1400.
You may find nylon washers in the same size that would be cheaper and reusable each oil change.
The other thing I noticed was that the green "o" rings (large and small) supplied with filters are a little smaller than originals.
You can also use a Ford filter kit (ZZCA-23-802) in the 2.3L engine.
The filter cartridge in the container is spring loaded and must be pushed up to engage the threads in the oil filter housing.
The most time consuming part of the whole procedure is the removal and re-installation of the engine splash pan. (dunno)
The reason the new green O-rings seem smaller is that they swell a bit with use so the used ones are bigger. This is a real good reason why they should be replaced with every filter change.

[Zeya]

Hmm. Okay I've heard enough warning here and elsewhere. I'm going to return my oil wrench and FRAM filter to the auto store and swing by the local mazda dealer to pick up the OEM stuff. If they're asking too much there, I'll just buy this deal online:
http://www.mazdaparts.org/genuine-mazda-oilfilter.html
http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-pan-drain-plug-washer.html

[speed858]

I just bought my used speed3 about a week ago from carmax and after hearing about all these o-rings and washers needing to be replaced do you think I should change my oil again so I know it was done right? Or should I just trust that carmax did a good job changing the oil when they certified it. All these horror stories of dealerships and oil changes are scaring me!

[Rotus8]

I just bought my used speed3 about a week ago from carmax and after hearing about all these o-rings and washers needing to be replaced do you think I should change my oil again so I know it was done right? Or should I just trust that carmax did a good job changing the oil when they certified it. All these horror stories of dealerships and oil changes are scaring me!
Why would carmax change the oil? It was probably done by the previous owner. If you didn't get the service records with the car, you should probably change it, just to make sure it is done right and can start your change intervel on your own schedule. If you did get the records, they should say what oil was put in and if it is a Mazda dealer, they probably used the correct filter & o-rings (unless they didn't of course).

[speed858]

Carmax said that they change the oil on every car they put on their lot. They weren't allowed to release any records to me because they had the previous owners name on it and would be a confidentiality issue. I think I want to change it anyway so I can start running synthetic.

[mz32quick]

Hmm. Okay I've heard enough warning here and elsewhere. I'm going to return my oil wrench and FRAM filter to the auto store and swing by the local mazda dealer to pick up the OEM stuff. If they're asking too much there, I'll just buy this deal online:
http://www.mazdaparts.org/genuine-mazda-oilfilter.html
http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-pan-drain-plug-washer.html

The prices at the site linked above sounded good until I got ready to checkout and they were going to charge me nearly $15 for UPS Standard Shipping!!!!! What a bunch of crap. Anyone know of a place that doesn't rip you a new one on shipping where you can get those washers?

[BSTD3]

Instead of buying the "special" Mazda oil filter wrench cap, we picked up one of these at VIP Auto:

"B" type oil filter wrench cap $5.99

This worked on my wife's CX-7 and will work on the Speed3 (and 6)

[fasteract]

The prices at the site linked above sounded good until I got ready to checkout and they were going to charge me nearly $15 for UPS Standard Shipping!!!!! What a bunch of crap. Anyone know of a place that doesn't rip you a new one on shipping where you can get those washers?


Harbor freight sells a box with an assortment of copper washers, 6 or so the size you need for $10.99 at their retail stores. I can usually use the same washer over the duration of several oil changes without a leak if I follow the oil drain plug torque rating (approx. 22 ft/lbs) and don't gouge the crap out of the washer by overtightening. They are a bit tougher than the OEM aluminum washers also.

[mz32quick]

^ Thanks for the tip. I'll check them out the next time I'm in Winston which is the nearest place to me with a Harbor Freight store.

I did stop by the dealership today to pick up a washer just so I could do the change this weekend and the guy behind the parts counter just gave me 3 of them. Sweet! haha Even better!!

[wmherman@mchsi.]

Funnel suggestion: Cut the bottom one inch off an empty, 1 qt plastic oil container (I used a Castrol container). Unscrew the cap & stick the makeshift funnel into the oil fill opening. Carefully pour the new oil into the makeshift funnel. All is well...

[wmherman@mchsi.]

^ Thanks for the tip. I'll check them out the next time I'm in Winston which is the nearest place to me with a Harbor Freight store.

I did stop by the dealership today to pick up a washer just so I could do the change this weekend and the guy behind the parts counter just gave me 3 of them. Sweet! haha Even better!!

I changed my speed3 oil & filter for the first time today. The metal washer on the drain plug does not look like a crush-type washer. It looks like a regular, flat-surface washer.

What did the washers the parts guy gave you look like? Most crush-type washers I've used before went on exhaust systems & were round, like an o-ring and hollow inside. When they were tightened, they compressed. The washer on my speed3 did not appear to be that type...

[Rivman]

I'm sure it's just a plain soft aluminum flat washer, and you could probably use a nylon washer that was the same size to seal the plug ! (dunno)

[wmherman]

wait until 1000 at least, or until the manual says, and you don't want to go off running out and buying some royal purple (or even any synthetic) for the first 5,000 miles really.. most of the engine break in happens the first 1-2.5K miles, but additional break in happens after that as well, and because of that, high VI oils will prevent said break-in because of their high film stregnth, which is never a good thing.. so if you must change your oil using a good quality conventional, such as some valvoline or castrol GTX.

the OEM oil is crappy not because they cheap out on it, but because it needs to be crappy.

How do you figure the OEM oil is "crappy?" Just because it's not synthetic does not mean it's crappy. You should be able to use the OEM type oil for the life of your vehicle, along with oil & filter changes at the intervals recommended by Mazda and never have a "oil induced" problem whatsoever.

Of course, after break-in, if you switched to synthetic, some folks feel there is some advantage gained in the extra expense. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything.

[wmherman]

Geez, how many times have I said that I used NEW o-rings? 3 or 4 times....YES I replaced the o-rings. And i kow that the filter does not seal it...obviously. Old ones looked fine...the only thing i was surprised about, they were flat. Which would make sense since they are compressed in there, BUT I would think that their flexible characteristic would make them go back to their natural 'roundness' afterwards. Filter caps seemed to be in perfect shape and condition.

Flat o-ring? Now we know exactly where the problem is. If the housing o-ring is flat, as you stated, it's obvious someone has installed it in the wrong position & it will leak. A properly installed o-ring will not compress.

The o-ring goes into a groove and seals against the inside surface of the housing, not the bottom surface as some folks might think. When the o-ring is properly placed, it should be fairly easy to move around. When you install the cap check to be sure the o-ring is not getting pinched, but goes "inside" the housing. When you tighten the plastic cap, it should snug up to the lower metal housing surface, with no o-ring showing. This is because the o-ring goes inside the housing & seals from within.

I hope this helps.

[wmherman]

I'm about to do my first oil change. Can anyone shed some light on the washer mentioned in the quote above? I don't see where in the original post this washer comes into play. Also, I don't want to drain my oil and run into a situation where I can't put the drain plug back on properly due to a missing washer. Do you guys know what size the washer is? I saw some next to the oil wrenches at the auto store, so maybe I can get a pack of washers there.

Speaking of oil wrenches, I just bought a generic oil filter wrench. Will this be enough, or do I REALLY need that special mazda thing? (I also have a socket wrench and a torque wrench.)

I'm still working my way thru this thread & this question may have already been answered, but just in case it wasn't, here goes...

The washer is simply a flat, aluminum washer. You should be able to reuse it multiple times unless you damage it somehow.

As far as a wrench to remove the plastic housing cap, you do not necessarily need the OEM tool. Look at the tool in the picture of the tools you will need & you will see an oil filter wrench that is a metal band with a handle on it. These come in different sizes & you will need one that covers the size you need but it should work just fine. When you put it in place & pivot the handle, the metal band tightens up fairly evenly all around the cap. You then should have enough "grip" on the cap to remove it by pushing on the handle.

You can use the same tool to reinstall the cap. Just install by hand 'till it gets too tight to turn. Finish the job with the tool. You don't have to get it overly tight as it is sealed by the o-ring that goes inside the housing. It is not sealed by the plastic cap sealing against the bottom surface of the housing.

I used the "band-type" tool & it worked just fine for my first filter change. I do plan on getting the OEM tool as I don't want to take a chance on cracking the plastic cap. I did try an aftermarket, metal "fluted" oil filter tool I use on some of my other vehicles but it just did not fit exactly right & would just slip.

Once you understand the basics of the cartridge type filter you will realize it's not that big a deal. There's no reason to have to convert to the spin-on type other than it's more familiar to some people.

I hope this helps.

[builthatch]

There's no reason to have to convert to the spin-on type other than it's more familiar to some people.

I hope this helps.

the only thing i think that should be added is it's been proven that certain types of premium oil filters, with their synthetic/synth blend media, etc are more efficient and better adapted to longer interval service with high performance synthetics than your standard paper cartridge, which was designed for shorter service life with conventional oils. i knew that i could go down to advance and get a mobil1 synth blend media filter to go along with my high performance synth oil; that was one nice selling point on the conversion.

EDIT: however, i've found that K&N seems to make what i'm assuming is a synth blend media cartridge that works for this application, so that is a viable option as well - HP-7013, though i'd still not recommend that over an amsoil or even mass market mobil1 filter.

[wmherman]

the only thing i think that should be added is it's been proven that certain types of premium oil filters, with their synthetic/synth blend media, etc are more efficient and better adapted to longer interval service with high performance synthetics than your standard paper cartridge, which was designed for shorter service life with conventional oils. i knew that i could go down to advance and get a mobil1 synth blend media filter to go along with my high performance synth oil; that was one nice selling point on the conversion.

EDIT: however, i've found that K&N seems to make what i'm assuming is a synth blend media cartridge that works for this application, so that is a viable option as well - HP-7013, though i'd still not recommend that over an amsoil or even mass market mobil1 filter.

Thanks for the info. I understand your reason for doing the conversion but are you of the opinion the standard filter will not serve it's purpose well for the 7,500 change interval using either dino or synthetic oil OR are you saying you simply feel the synth blend filter is better/recommended when one is using the synthetic oil?

Also, regarding the conversion, what all is involved?

[Rotus8]

As far as a wrench to remove the plastic housing cap, you do not necessarily need the OEM tool. Look at the tool in the picture of the tools you will need & you will see an oil filter wrench that is a metal band with a handle on it. These come in different sizes & you will need one that covers the size you need but it should work just fine. When you put it in place & pivot the handle, the metal band tightens up fairly evenly all around the cap. You then should have enough "grip" on the cap to remove it by pushing on the handle.
These wrenches actually put a lot of pressure in one point where the handle pulls on one end of the wrench. This has been known to fracture the plastic housing. It is insideous because it can crack the housing without it being obvious and you lose your oil over a period of time which can be unhealthy for your engine and turbo.

[wmherman]

These wrenches actually put a lot of pressure in one point where the handle pulls on one end of the wrench. This has been known to fracture the plastic housing. It is insideous because it can crack the housing without it being obvious and you lose your oil over a period of time which can be unhealthy for your engine and turbo.

Thanks. I agree. Even though the metal band goes around the filter, there is definitely more pressure in one area. This was my first oil & filter change on this car. I will have the proper OEM tool before my next oil & filter change as I certainly don't want to take a chance on cracking the plastic housing end cap.

[SgtP]

the spin on conversion is pretty straight forward. Replace one metal piece with another metal piece. Just make sure the car has cooled down for a bit. Hot oil does not feel too good. Not that that happened to me or anything...

[wmherman@mchsi.]

My car would not clear the ramps without using the 2x6's. I have a 45 degree angle cut on the front edge. I've added a 1x4 turned sideways so that the tire doesn't drop down when it goes off the end of the 2x6's and onto the ramp. This setup works great & makes changing the oil & filter a breeze.

I'll never have to depend on anyone else to change it for me, at least as long as my health holds out...

[hilmar2k]

My car would not clear the ramps without using the 2x6's. I have a 45 degree angle cut on the front edge. I've added a 1x4 turned sideways so that the tire doesn't drop down when it goes off the end of the 2x6's and onto the ramp. This setup works great & makes changing the oil & filter a breeze.

I'll never have to depend on anyone else to change it for me, at least as long as my health holds out...

Or you could just buy the correct Rhino ramps. They make two models, the other one works without any lumber.

[MikeHTally]

I built these a year or so ago... I use 'em on my Ram, 300C, and the MS3.

[mspeed3 617]

looks good..

DIY FTW...

I just use a jack and some jack stands...

[wmherman@mchsi.]

Or you could just buy the correct Rhino ramps. They make two models, the other one works without any lumber.

hilmark, I'm not sure but isn't the width the only difference between the two ramps? What year is your speed3? Mine is 2008. Could it be that the front end is different on our two cars so that you might not have a clearance problem with either ramp?

[hilmar2k]

hilmark, I'm not sure but isn't the width the only difference between the two ramps? What year is your speed3? Mine is 2008. Could it be that the front end is different on our two cars so that you might not have a clearance problem with either ramp?

Mine is also an '08.

The angle of the ramp is also different, which is why it won't go up the heavier duty version (steeper angle on that one).

[gtlaw]

I must have the steeper rhino ramps. today when I changed my oil I had to use pieces of wood to avoid scraping

[blacksheepms3]

looks good..

DIY FTW...

I just use a jack and some jack stands...

placing the jack and jack stand on ms3 is a bitch....all my work begins with positioning the two and it takes long as hell to position them. I have to buy that ramp. I was gonna do my oil today but friggin hydraulic jack sunk on hot asphalt. so pissed

[hilmar2k]

placing the jack and jack stand on ms3 is a bitch....all my work begins with positioning the two and it takes long as hell to position them. I have to buy that ramp. I was gonna do my oil today but friggin hydraulic jack sunk on hot asphalt. so pissed

These are the ramps you want.

http://rhinoramps.com/8000.html

[controlo]

wtf. that website is retarded. how do i buy them???

[Rotus8]

wtf. that website is retarded. how do i buy them???
I got mine at Kragen's.

[hilmar2k]

wtf. that website is retarded. how do i buy them???

Here you go.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BLI&MfrPartNumber=11903&CategoryCode=3400

[nhluhr]

The washer is simply a flat, aluminum washer. You should be able to reuse it multiple times unless you damage it somehow.The washer is not meant to be re-used. It is an annealed aluminum non-heat-treated washer. The idea here is that it deforms to match any irregularity as you crank down on the drain plug, thus sealing. This deformation is called "cold working" and it creates a finer grain structure in the metal which effectively hardens it. The problem then with re-using the washer is that it is not as soft the second time around and it may not seal as well. For $1, it is pretty cheap to just use a new one each time. Copper sealing rings are the same in that they get cold-worked and harder when you use them.


Mine is also an '08.

The angle of the ramp is also different, which is why it won't go up the heavier duty version (steeper angle on that one).No, this is not correct. Both versions of Rhino Ramps have a 17 degree incline and are the same total height. The only difference between the two versions is the width of the heavy duty version and also the top platform of the heavy duty version is slightly longer to accomodate larger diameter tires more comfortably.

If your car won't go up the HD version, it won't go up the 8000lb version either. You need to go to a shallower angle, such as the RaceRamps: http://www.discountramps.com/low_profile_car_ramp.htm or build your own out of some 2x10s from Home Depot.

[Super Unique]

any reason we couldn't find a part number for a drain plug with rubber gasket that would fit our application?

[AutoXRacer]

any reason we couldn't find a part number for a drain plug with rubber gasket that would fit our application?

I bought a magnetic tip drain plug with plastic gasket...

[AP1NEEDED]

Maybe im just missing something but do u really need the supposed engine cover on the bottom with all those clips and bolts. Other then to help aerodynamics under the car is it really neccessary?

[AutoXRacer]

Maybe im just missing something but do u really need the supposed engine cover on the bottom with all those clips and bolts. Other then to help aerodynamics under the car is it really neccessary?

Also keeps engine bay cleaner...

[Young Roids]

I bought a magnetic tip drain plug with plastic gasket...

how much does the magnet catch?

[AutoXRacer]

how much does the magnet catch?
Don't know, I just put it in... I know on my other vehicles, it catched quite a bit. I'll let you know next month or so...

[dkswim]

that tray on the bottom of the car also helps with the cooling of the engine bay

[nhluhr]

not to mention corrosion protection from limiting how much water and crap can get up there from the road.

[nhluhr]

By the way, i've been looking through this thread and don't see the official torque spec for the oil pan drain bolt mentioned. What is it?

[dkswim]

use german torque "gooden tight" dont crank on it go to where it snugs down light pressure on wrench then while holding wrench tap hand in tightning way

[AutoXRacer]

By the way, i've been looking through this thread and don't see the official torque spec for the oil pan drain bolt mentioned. What is it?

According to the service manual:

-Oil pan drain plug: 30-41 N.m {23-30 ft.lbs}
-Oil fliter cover: 30-35 N.m {22.2-25.8 ft.lbs}
-Oil filter drain plug: 9-11 N.m {79.6-97.2 in.lbs}

[ericrapp]

Maybe im just missing something but do u really need the supposed engine cover on the bottom with all those clips and bolts. Other then to help aerodynamics under the car is it really neccessary?
For lots of reasons . I agree it is a pain though.

[whitemp5seattle]

I haven't had one on my 3 since I bought it in March and I don't know how long the previous owner had the car without it. Nothing's gone wrong yet...but I'll probably be ordering one eventually. There goes $150 down the drain...

mind you I don't have a CAI or anything so water getting splashed up there isn't too much of an issue for me.

[LReyes66]

Ok well ill be doing my first oil change in about 700 miles...

Ok im gonna have to either buy some jackstands or ramps lol

Quick question... what exactly do you guys think i should put in for oil. Penzoil plat or Mobile 1.

Oh and can i just use a fram filter from autozone or do yall recommend me getting an oem oilfilter...

[AutoXRacer]

I would stay away from Mobil 1... Threads around here and other forums say that Mobil does handle the fuel dilution very well... Stick with PP if you are not going with a "true" synthetic. Regarding the oil filter, make sure it includes the two o-rings... Its not your typical metal oil filter can, its paper element. Because not to over-torque the plastic oil canister; you can crack it...

[FrequentFlyer]

I would stay away from Mobil 1... Threads around here and other forums say that Mobil does handle the fuel dilution very well... Stick with PP if you are not going with a "true" synthetic..

There also seems to be enough evidence from various member's oil analysis that this so-called "Fuel Dilution" issue is a myth or at least widespread. I would assume it may vary with driving habits. Lots of city, red light to red light WOT romps, etc...where we run pig rich, may attribute to more fuel dilution than say, someone doing 70 miles a day on the highway. I just don't believe it's as common of a problem as some of the paranoia in this forum tends to make it seem. I'll have my own oil analysis done next change. Anyway... back to how-to.

[ericrapp]

Ok well ill be doing my first oil change in about 700 miles...

Ok im gonna have to either buy some jackstands or ramps lol

Quick question... what exactly do you guys think i should put in for oil. Penzoil plat or Mobile 1.

Oh and can i just use a fram filter from autozone or do yall recommend me getting an oem oilfilter...
We have had lots of discussion on oils with a bit of good science and a fair amount of opinion. If you search around you will learn about about oil qualities and maybe oil could be something you want to be particular about or maybe not. I would recommend full synthetic, if you are able to afford to so. But regular changes will remove unwanted contaminants and that makes fossil fuel attractive. It works well and can be replaced less expensively. Enjoy the search though. Bob the oil guy. Try that one for fun!

[BSTD3]

I just did the oil change in my Speed3. Took me just over an hour from start to finish. Actually ate dinner in between while the oil drained.

The only thing I didn't put back after changing the oil was those friggin pop screws on the belly pan. I didn't manage to break them but I sure was close. Figured I'll be doing my own oil changes from this point forward (Penzoil Plat), that leaving the two plastic screws was ok.

Thanks for the write up! :)

[LReyes66]

lol the oem filter is only $6 and the k&n filter is $17 :O.... but ya


still wondering if i should get the speciial wrench thing for the filter

[BSTD3]

lol the oem filter is only $6 and the k&n filter is $17 :O.... but ya


still wondering if i should get the speciial wrench thing for the filter

My wife bought the filter wrench from Auto Zone. You need the "B" type oil filter wrench cap for a whopping $4.99. It worked on her CX-7 and my Speed3 to twist off the oil cartridge. HIGHLY recommended.

[dkswim]

you need one of those wrenches my first oil change i didnt have it it. had to do 2-3 full rotations of that slow moving full force moving total PITA

[ianmcc85]

These wrenches actually put a lot of pressure in one point where the handle pulls on one end of the wrench. This has been known to fracture the plastic housing. It is insideous because it can crack the housing without it being obvious and you lose your oil over a period of time which can be unhealthy for your engine and turbo.

Agreed. There is a tool made for the job, and a torque spec for a reason.

[LReyes66]

wait which wrench? the one made for mazda? the $20 one?

[BSTD3]

wait which wrench? the one made for mazda? the $20 one?

Re-read my post above....

My wife bought the filter wrench from Auto Zone. You need the "B" type oil filter wrench cap for a whopping $4.99. It worked on her CX-7 and my Speed3 to twist off the oil cartridge. HIGHLY recommended

[LReyes66]

ic ic

[whitemp5seattle]

I changed my oil for the first time since getting the car earlier this year. Whoever did it the last time must have WAAAAAAY overtorqued the tiny bolt that drains the oil from the filter, because as I tried to loosen the bolt it turned the whole filter housing. Not a big deal, just a little messy because I had to take out the filter housing without draining it first. Thank goodness for latex gloves.

[MikeHTally]

I just ordered the spin-on filter conversion from PG. It's coming with the K&N filter (HP2009, I think). Sure will make it easier and less nerve-wracking than dealing with a canister-type.

[ms6utah]

cake

[206B3]

I just ordered the spin-on filter conversion from PG. It's coming with the K&N filter (HP2009, I think). Sure will make it easier and less nerve-wracking than dealing with a canister-type.

MikeHTally, Name's Jim. I too have a CWP 2008.5 MS3GT delivered July 14, 08.

Can you give some critique on your spin-on mod?

PG has a web-site?

I like the spin-on idea though the spin-on filter is the same size as OEM.

Thanks

[Sims]

Mazda New Zealand were helpful today…

-ring ring-

"Hi Mazda parts"
"Yes I'd like a socket to fit the 2.3l engine cartridge oil filter"
"I'm sorry we don't sell tools"
"ermm Its not a tool, its a genuine part"
"Sorry sir we don't sell tools"
"For chrissakes i'm looking at a picture of one now, do you want the part number"
"Sir we DON'T sell tools, thank-you for your call"
-click-

"@#$! &^!@#&^% @&*"

[FrequentFlyer]

Mazda New Zealand were helpful today…

-ring ring-

"Hi Mazda parts"
"Yes I'd like a socket to fit the 2.3l engine cartridge oil filter"
"I'm sorry we don't sell tools"
"ermm Its not a tool, its a genuine part"
"Sorry sir we don't sell tools"
"For chrissakes i'm looking at a picture of one now, do you want the part number"
"Sir we DON'T sell tools, thank-you for your call"
-click-

"@#$! &^!@#&^% @&*"

Should have just called back and said, "I want to buy this part, #xxxxxx, can you look it up for me?".

[PCspeed3]

Does anybody know if I can get to the fog lights to replace them by taking off this same skid plate formentioned? Thanks

[Rotus8]

Does anybody know if I can get to the fog lights to replace them by taking off this same skid plate formentioned? Thanks
No, you can't. You have to remove the screws from the corner splash shields and bend them down for access.

[jasonjm]

According to the service manual:

-Oil pan drain plug: 30-41 N.m {23-30 ft.lbs}
-Oil fliter cover: 30-35 N.m {22.2-25.8 ft.lbs}
-Oil filter drain plug: 9-11 N.m {79.6-97.2 in.lbs}

In Further Detail:

10Nm = 7.37Lb-Ft = 88.50Lb-In
31Nm = 22.12Lb-Ft = 265.52Lb-In
35Nm = 25.81Lb-Ft = 309.77Lb-In

[speed858]

Hey Guys

So I changed my oil for the first time today and this thread was right on. The only question I had was I put 6 qts in and my dipstick still shows me at the min level. It was at this same level before I did my oil change too. Is this a bad dipstick and should I have the dealer look at this?

[FrequentFlyer]

Hey Guys

So I changed my oil for the first time today and this thread was right on. The only question I had was I put 6 qts in and my dipstick still shows me at the min level. It was at this same level before I did my oil change too. Is this a bad dipstick and should I have the dealer look at this?

There's no way you're at min level with 6 full quarts in there. If anything, you're above the max line. Seems as though the dipstick is either off mark or this car retains quite a bit of residual oil, requiring only about 5.75 quarts to get it to the max line. I throw a full 6 quarts in anyway, since I don't believe .25 quarts is going to harm anything, but the level on my dipstick is definitely at max, if not slightly above. Does anyone know if this car has the same oil pan as the N/A 2.3 motor? I'm wondering if the extra oil required is just because of the extra oil lines going two and from the turbo.

[speed858]

I'm pretty sure my dipstick is off the mark. I might have the dealer fix my dipstick so I know where my true level is.

[CTpro5]

maybe you're looking at the wrong dipstick. it might be for MTX Fluid



Hey Guys

So I changed my oil for the first time today and this thread was right on. The only question I had was I put 6 qts in and my dipstick still shows me at the min level. It was at this same level before I did my oil change too. Is this a bad dipstick and should I have the dealer look at this?

[dkswim]

no mtx dipstick.. wipe off and reinsert some reason the dipstick is always off on the first pull i have my theroys why

[oldnotdead]

I plan on changing my oil in a couple of weeks, prior to going on a 2500 mile road trip. My car will probably have only 1000 miles on it by then but I would rather change out the factory oil prior to the trip. I would like to go to a synthetic or a blend for this car. Should I stick with "regular" oil for one more change prior to switching to synthetic? Your thoughts on this are appreciated.

[Kain]

I plan on changing my oil in a couple of weeks, prior to going on a 2500 mile road trip. My car will probably have only 1000 miles on it by then but I would rather change out the factory oil prior to the trip. I would like to go to a synthetic or a blend for this car. Should I stick with "regular" oil for one more change prior to switching to synthetic? Your thoughts on this are appreciated.

Up to you. There is no "right" time to switch to synth. I did the first change @ 1,800 miles and went to Penn Plat synth. Just make sure that when you do switch, stick to it. Don't go back to dyno.

[oldnotdead]

Up to you. There is no "right" time to switch to synth. I did the first change @ 1,800 miles and went to Penn Plat synth. Just make sure that when you do switch, stick to it. Don't go back to dyno.

Thanks, the reason I asked was because somewhere I heard it is better to use regular oil to break your engine in. Not sure where I read that. They don't talk about breaking an engine in like they used to.

[Kain]

You have 1,000 miles. Your engine is broken in.



EDIT: dino, not dyno. lawl.

[206B3]

I took delivery of my CWP MS3GT mid-July. From the first oil check I observed, pulling the dipstick out first thing in the morning, that it read MIN.
Reinsert the DS and there it is Max. Does it every time on the first read of the day (or if it sits 3-4 hours).

I think there is some seal that occurs at the handle w/ o-ring preventing the oil rising within the DS tube. Once you pull the DS out 1/2" and reinsert to stop, it's MAX.

Strange but True!

I also agree with 1000 break-in miles. I have 2000 as of today and the performance is awesome.

Check out ferrarichat.com - FAQ: Motor oil articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas)
It's a great explanation of oils, centistokes and performance traits of syn's vs. mineral-petroleum products.

[BillTheCat]

Just want to say thanks in advance for the write-up & pics. I've always changed my own oil, but my back & neck are fighting me more & more on that count every time. Knowing where the bolts & clips are, etc. will help me get done more quickly & save pain & stiffness later.

I just traded an 05 MINI Cooper S for a MS3 Sport. Was hoping the oil changes would be easier, but it looks like they'll be a bit more involved. I am, however, undeterred.

(No need to remove underpanels on the Cooper S, as the drain plug is in plain sight & the filter housing is accessed thru the top of the engine bay. Mind you, the top-loading canister is a royal MESS every time, so maybe I'll have less clean-up after a change on the MS3.)

[Bonafide_Spd3]

Just wondering instead of going to the mazda dealership to get the oil filter if I could just pick up one at a local autozone or whatever

[blacksheepms3]

PG sells them for almost half what the dealer charged me. you might wanna get it from them instead.

[BillTheCat]

PG sells them for almost half what the dealer charged me. you might wanna get it from them instead.

"PG" likely refers to Protege Garage (http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/index.php), just for Bonafide's benefit.

[Speed3ForMe]

I just did my first oil change and I poured in 5QTs and when I checked the dipstick it is right at the point before the "Max" indicator. I've read through this thread and noticed a lot of people use at less 5.5QTs. Should I be worried? When I look into the engine via the port on top of the engine I can't visibly see any oil.

[sephiroth]

When I look into the engine via the port on top of the engine I can't visibly see any oil.

nor should you, the oil sits in the pan until it's injected through the cam caps onto the contact surfaces of the camshaft. Just add in 100ml's until it reads max.

[hyperpm]

first time changing oil on speed3 and thought it would be complicated due to cartridge style filter. i was wrong, it was a piece of cake.

[RUFFSTUFF]

Everytime I change my oil I find myself coming back here... Thanks again and everytime!

[khoney]

I just did my first oil change and I poured in 5QTs and when I checked the dipstick it is right at the point before the "Max" indicator. I've read through this thread and noticed a lot of people use at less 5.5QTs. Should I be worried? When I look into the engine via the port on top of the engine I can't visibly see any oil.

Did you start the engine, let it run for a minute, and stop it, and recheck? The filter will take up some of that oil.

[Bonafide_Spd3]

Just changed mine, very simple to do. 5 1/2 qts. and it was to the max... Should that be right?

[Abilor]

Yup! Welcome to the fun. I highly recommend the kwik valve if you're going to be changing your own. What juice did you use? Penn Plat?

Also, check underneath the next morning to look for drips, and check the level before starting to confirm after it drips into the pan overnight. You should be good though.

[Bonafide_Spd3]

mobile 1, I use to use castrol but heard mobile 1 was better. Not really sure which oil brand is best

[J-Villa]

Yup! Welcome to the fun. I highly recommend the kwik valve if you're going to be changing your own. What juice did you use? Penn Plat?

Also, check underneath the next morning to look for drips, and check the level before starting to confirm after it drips into the pan overnight. You should be good though.

Whats this Quik valve u talk of? I didn't read the whole thread... but is it one of those valves where u screw a base on, then have a drain top and a plug top to it? Where do they sell those now?

And Penz. Plat is soooooooo cheap @ walmart right now. I got a 5 quart and a 1 quart for >$30. good oil too.

[Kain]

www.quickoildrainvalve.com (http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com)

Valve is F-106N, adapter is ADP106.

[Hank3]

It's slightly cheaper here:

http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/shop.aspx?catid=3&parentid=0

I just ordered last week along with the oil filter conversion :)

[Abilor]

I love my kwik valve, but it drips a tiny bit, mostly at the seal. Is it just a question of tightening it like he-man?

[J-Villa]

I love my kwik valve, but it drips a tiny bit, mostly at the seal. Is it just a question of tightening it like he-man?

new seal?

[Kain]

I love my kwik valve, but it drips a tiny bit, mostly at the seal. Is it just a question of tightening it like he-man?

You might have the wrong adapter or the threads are bad.

[Abilor]

Hmm.. It's the valve and adapter you recommended Kain, I made sure of it. It seems okay. After three weeks, it was only a little bit of oil, and I tightened it up (it needed it) with a spanner. Now it's just a little moist around the seal. My point is it's not an epic drip; maybe the seals just need to break in and be tightened a bit more next time? Should I maybe use loctite?

[Kain]

Don't use loctite. The last thing you want to have happen is not be able to get the valve out and cross-thread your oil pan in the process. PITA. I would write the company and let them know, they may send a replacement.

[Mocoso]

Thank you! This saved me 100 bucks! Well this and the fact my neighbor has all the right tools and likes working on cars - we had to fight for who was going to do the dirty work!! Nice to have an online reference and neighbor with every tool in the book..... brake pads are next!

[squidmotion]

got under mine for the first look and see...

the only time i had an oil change not done by me was in homestead, fla. circa 2001... not by choice, but i was on 'super extended holiday' ....

going with valvoline full synth 5W30 at 3400 miles (all highway) as soon as i can get the right socket for the plastic filter housing. no big deal, thanks to all the input on this thread.

why do these cars demand such loose oil? i haven't run anything less than 30W in anything in se texas for years! my chevs always got 40 or 50W...

gotta have something to do with mr. turbo.

do you guys ever get concerned over bootleg filters? like other things, folks over seas making super cheap worthless copies of things and selling them in the same boxes that the real thing comes in?

i like that deal of 5 filters and a wrench for 24 bucks, but seems almost too sweet to be true???

so. the guy who designed the plastic splash guard... i'm pretty sure he has been de-moted to 'tire installer' or 'floor sweeper specialist'... or maybe bat boy for the mazda company baseball team.

so close yet so far away... swing and a MISS. i bet they even have a nickname for the screw up... of course it would be in japanese, but the translation might be something like, 'hector's hole' or 'willie's wrist wracker'

car doesn't have 5000 miles on it yet, and i'm already taking the sawsall to it?!?!? hehehhe sure hope the wife doesn't walk out and see this :)

[Mocoso]

got under mine for the first look and see...

.....
so. the guy who designed the plastic splash guard... i'm pretty sure he has been de-moted to 'tire installer' or 'floor sweeper specialist'... or maybe bat boy for the mazda company baseball team.

so close yet so far away... swing and a MISS. i bet they even have a nickname for the screw up... of course it would be in japanese, but the translation might be something like, 'hector's hole' or 'willie's wrist wracker'

car doesn't have 5000 miles on it yet, and i'm already taking the sawsall to it?!?!? hehehhe sure hope the wife doesn't walk out and see this :)

My guess is that the pastic splash guard is the same one used in the regular 3 and the hole is for that engine and they just decided it wasnt worth it to create a new part and forms for the MZ3 engine and figured MZ3 can just remove the splash guard... at least that makes me feel much better than the "close but no cigar" theory

[Kain]

If you're handy with tools, you can create a cutout right underneath the filter housing and adding a hinge.

[DaleNixon]

For God's sake Abilor, don't tighten anything!

[Abilor]

Hahahahaha. (crying inside)

[Sport6]

So what is the correct replacement size of the washer for the drain plug? I didn't replace it this last time (will keep an eye on it) but will definitely replace it the time time.

[Kain]

For God's sake Abilor, don't tighten anything!

Abilor Automotive Services, sponsored by BALCO.

[khoney]

They may charge you, but most auto-parts stores will dispose of it for free as long as it's in the proper type of container. I just take my oil pan to my local parts store and dump it. Also you cant take a funnel and poor it back into the new bottles of oil you just used, then drop it off at the parts store.

If you have indoor cats, a 40lb cat litter container makes an excellent oil storage container - I've managed to fill up a few of them before heading to AutoZone to dump them all :)

[squidmotion]

UPDATE:


the correct filter removal cup socket IS NOT a type B... that one is a 75-76MM and is 15 flutes... it might work, but is going to slip eventually..

the correct one for our cars is a TYPE D 75MM and 14 flutes... fits perfect.

the pennzoil number is 19903. $4.99 at hi-lo auto.

oil change was pretty straightforward.. just make sure you use plenty of oil on those o-rings and don't cross thread that housing!!!


full synthetic valvoline 5W30 for mine....

[TheRealDefman]

Yet another thanks for a great write up, put it to good use this morning!

[Abilor]

Kwik valve eliminates cross thread worries... Thanks Kain! AAS by Balco...

[KDiz]

glad i read this before changing my oil for 2 reasons.

1. my wife's fusion has the same cartridge style filter, but i ALWAYS forget about the allen wrench for the plug. had to go run out and get some metric allens.

2. i just bought my 07 ms3 9 days ago. i pulled the oil plug off the pan to see NO washer on it. it probably would've slipped my mind that there should be some sort of washer or rubber seal on the plug itself. had to run out and get some nylon washers for use until the next oil change.

i must say though, this was the biggest PITA oil change i've done. after pulling the plug to see no washer, i put it back in the pan after letting it drain for about 15 mins. to prevent it from possibly dripping oil while i changed the filter. after the filter change, i wanted to take the plug with me to make sure i get the right sized washer. when i pulled it, quite a bit of oil poured out onto the ground. i was able to slide my oil catch pan under it for the last bit. again, i didn't want it dripping onto the ground so i placed a shop towel (those fancy blue ones) into the hole while i ran up the the auto store to get the washers and drop off my used oil in the catch pan. came back, pulled the shop towel out and suprise! more oil on the ground. i would guess an additional half quart ended up coming out after draining the first time and replacing the filter. i guess next time, i'll watch a movie while the oil drains.

[squidmotion]

i like the way the oil just LAUNCHES itself out of this thing... hehehee i had to move quick, and still made a good mess!!

are you sure there was no washer? the one on mine looked like it was part of the plug until i wiggled it around a bit...

[hyperpm]

ok i've done my oil changes twice already on this car. 1st time followed all instructions in this thread and went fine. 2nd time around i just unscrewed the cartridge halfway and let the oil drain out then dumped the rest after it stopped. questions:1) that worked so whats the purpose of unscrewing bolt in the middle with allen when you can just unscrew the cartridge and get rid of oil that way. good hunch dealer does it this way. 2) i haven't changed the green gaskets since they still look new. no issues or leaking doing it this way as well. am i asking for trouble?

[Retrobmx63]

It's just easier to clean up.

Doing it the way you just described you would now have to wipe down the plastic housing covered in oil. The allen bolt is a drain hole to help make the process cleaner.

[Sport6]

Bump for correct size of the replacement oil drain washer?

[Metro Gray]

Has anyone used a Mityvac to suck the oil from the dipstick tube? I have one which will collect 8 Quarts which I used for my MB when I had it and it made changing oil very clean and easy.

[Russm]

Try doing a oil change outside 2 weeks ago I saw -3 on the temp. as fast as I could do the change was 45 min, darn fingers kept freezig on the pan bolts. Usually takes 20-30 min.

[bova80]

i just bought the mityvac 7201 so we'll see how it goes.

[Metro Gray]

i just bought the mityvac 7201 so we'll see how it goes.

Looking forward to getting the feedback.

Here's a link to the one I bought 5 years ago, not sure what model it is but it does work well: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200007974_200007974

[bova80]

i think thats the one i got only i paid $70 for it

[wmherman]

I think the Mazda oil filter tool is 14 flute, 75.6mm. I used a 14 flute, 76mm tool and it worked just fine. It initially had a little slack in it but I cured that by cutting a 1" x 5" piece of file folder, enough to fit inside and go half-way around the tool, I held this in place while placing the tool over the cover. This fit snug enough to where it held itself in place. I was able to remove/reinstall the cover without any slippage or damage to the cover.

Another observation was that the drain plug washer was flat on one side and very slightly deformed (from straddling the hole) on the other side. I simply flipped the washer over and reused it. I don't expect to have any leakage or other problems from reusing the washer in this manner.

Still another observation is that the new washers that come with a new Purolator One filter seem to be made from a different material that the factory washers. I believe the factory washers are superior and strongly considered reusing them as they weren't deformed whatsoever. Alas, I decided to go with the new washers as that's probably the safer bet. Looks can be deceiving.

One more thing... As I was finishing up and removing the drip pan from under the car I noticed a few drops of oil built up under the drain plug. I put my wrench on it and discovered I had not tightened it up yet. Thank goodness I had the presence of mind to check this. Moral of story, do a final check that all covers, plugs, etc. are properly tightened and that oil filler cap is in place.

[Abilor]

2 things after doing mine for the third time over the weekend. The first is that I am fostering violent hatred of the stock filter arrangement, and will be switching to spin on filter conversion the next time around. The damn thing is just too messy, and doesn't match the ease of my kwik valve. That said, I thought my kwik valve seal was leaking, when in fact it's the kwik valve itself. Not the ball joint mind you, but the metal plate that sits next to it - if you have one, you'll know what I mean. It's not bad, maybe one drip per 2 days, not a leak really, but still... I have to keep an eye on it. I will take photo and send to kwik valve people in hopes of a replacement, though I hate messing with the oil pan threads, the reason I got it to begin with. The kwik valve still made the whole process easy however, no real regrets.

[bova80]

Looking forward to getting the feedback.

Here's a link to the one I bought 5 years ago, not sure what model it is but it does work well: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200007974_200007974


changed my oil tonight with the mityvac. went pretty well. it is kind of slow, took about 25-30min to get all 5.5 quarts of oil out and had to be pumped a couple of times during this. But it makes for easy disposal of the oil because when i was all down i just pumped it back into empty containers. i know you can just pour it out of there but i thought this was easier.

[Metro Gray]

changed my oil tonight with the mityvac. went pretty well. it is kind of slow, took about 25-30min to get all 5.5 quarts of oil out and had to be pumped a couple of times during this. But it makes for easy disposal of the oil because when i was all down i just pumped it back into empty containers. i know you can just pour it out of there but i thought this was easier.

Awesome, thank you for the reply. When you pulled the filter was it empty or did this also require draining?

I usually bring it to the local autostore for disposal, pretty clean setup although I would suggest a papertowel to wipe off any drips before putting it back in the car.

Thanks again for the input.(thumb)

[bova80]

the filter was still full, had about a half quart of oil in it. But according to the measurement on the side of the mityvac it drained just a hair under 5L which is 5.2quarts so I think its safe to say I got just about all the oil out of there.

[tau]

Hi, very well explain, pictures really helps, thanks

[F430TECH]

I did my third oil change on the car this week and did the Redline MT-90 in the transmission while I was there. Whole process took me about an hour. Not bad.

This was the first oil change since I put the magnetic plug in after the last one. Pleased to report no big chunks! There was 2-3mm of very fine metal shavings that are to be expected on the tip of the magnet, so its definitely doing something...it was less than I expected which means the Mobil 1 is doing its job.

[Red08Speed3]

Mazda doesnt recommend undoing the drain screw in the filter cap. It strips easy.

[DaleNixon]

Seriously? What do you do then? Just remove the whole cartridge and get a load of oil in the face?

[Abilor]

You get the spin on.

[derrick1623]

nice write up.

still cussing that damn shroud...last nut snapped off the tab or whatever holds it in place. all the others came out fine, i had to spin the whole damn shroud out of the way like it was hinged on that nut.

grumble grumble

[DaleNixon]

You get the spin on.

Smart ass!

[NeMoGas]

Thanks for the write up. Used it to change my oil today, worked great. (drinks)

[SDSpeed3]

Great write-up!

Before next oil change I'm going to take the sawzall to that engine cover so I can access the filter without removing it everytime!

$24.01 6Qt Pennzoil Platinum (5.6Qts used)
$6.25 Mazda Oil Filter (5-pack price)
FREE 20 minutes of my time
--------------------------------
$30.26 Total

Knowing it was done properly...........PRICELESS

[Latka]

Has anybody changed the oil and filter in a new 2010 Mazda 3 2.5L yet? Just curious to see if there are any major changes (I have read that the oil filters are now the screw on type). Seems like the older versions of the 3 or mazdaspeed 3 are a little time consuming and have delicate procedures in some situations when it comes to changing oil. Can anyone else confirm? Sorry if this is in the wrong place.

[Kain]

This is the forum for the 2010 3/MS3: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=342. You'll have better luck there.

[Latka]

Thanks for trying...I have looked through there and didn't find anything (or I am just blind) and that is why I tried here.

[Poet-Tek]

I just did my third oil change, first time I've done it myself on this car. 9500 miles. I had some free time today. Supplies cost me $35 at the parts store. I used the MotorCraft Synth Blend 5W30. Purolator Filter. Picked up a 75mm/14 flute filter wrench for $5, which worked flawlessly even if it kind of got stuck on the filter. I figured that's close to what they use at the dealership and I'm doing every 3K or so. No great reason to go top shelf. With the coupon, it's less than $30 at the dealership. And they wash it.

I could see doing my summer changes at home, but I'm not doing this shit in the winter. For less money...I'll go read magazines, look at cars and yuck it up at the dealer. Build relationships for if/when I take it in for a warantee claim.

The only step I would add is:

1. Walk down alley looking in dumpsters for something to use as a drain pan.

I forgot to buy the drain pain when I went to the auto store. My old one went bye-bye during a recent move. But I found a plastic bucket and ripped the top off and all was well with the universe. I saved said bucket from the landfill and I hope that it will serve me well.

My drain plug was really on tight. I had to go get the breaker bar. So I put it back on tight. With the same washer. I figured if anything comes out of there, it isn't going to be much.

The filter is a freakin mess, out there in the hot sun smearing o-rings with oil and burning your hands on an allen wrench that sat in the sun. Crawling around on the ground. Greating various people who walk by. Mind you, I'm doing this in an alley in Central Denver outside my apt building. If I saw myself doing lots of my own oil changes, I'd get the spin on conversion. I'd get a garage too. Cartridge just seems generally more messy than spin on. Garage just seems generally more conducive to DIY oil changes than alley.

So after the change and a short test drive/check for leaks, the wind reports were looking good. I grabbed a RC glider from my quiver and headed out of Denver to the west. 2 Miles City, then 12 highway, then a glorious run up the mountain. I'm lovinf the car now with the summer rubber and a few other mods. I flew the glider for about 1/2 hour, huge pumps, aerobatics, standing at the edge of a 2000ft plus cliff wind in my hair, blah, blah, blah. Amazing view through a canyon at the start of the Rocky Mountains. Landed. Checked the oil and it was showing on the full side, but not all the way. I put about another 1/4 quart in and then I flew more and eventually drove back to the city for dinner with friends. Smeared with oil, sweat and mountain. Glad we decided on a casual pub popular with the bohemian crowd. I couldn't have been the most smelly guy in that place.

Anyway, that's my story.

-G

[tanksloth]

Hey
Got my mz3 on leave from iraq for my wife. I love the car (08 GT) Now we have a garage so why not work on the car???
Well a year or so later I have been using it for work commute and decided that $ 50 for shiytt OIL is crap. The car was changed every 3K at Jiffy Lube.
Well It seems they changed 5q every time and they stripped the drain on the filter drain. It also looks as if the crush washer of the drain plug has never been replaced. Finally the push pins on the splash guard were DEAD!

Basically I will never take anything there again. I took the 2500HD there as well. The 5.7 tahoe takes 5qts so I hope that was done right. They charged me $$$ for an extra qt of oil on it but for the MZ3 which I found to take over 5.5 qt.
Death to Jiffy Lube.

[oaklandopen]

i used to use jizzy lube when i had no tools, no knowledge, and no place to do oil changes myself. they left the oil fill cap off once, stripped my oil pan threads for the drain bolt once, left out the dipstick once, and offered me new windhsield wipers when i didn't need them 100,000 times

thank god i got the knowledge before i got this car

[BoostedSpd6]

thats really alarming.. i guess if u want something done the right way u gotta do it urslef..id make "jizzy lube" (lol2) pay for the damages that they caused.. ive never went back to the dealership after i bought the car, even though the speed tech their knew what hes was talking about, his "helpers" were garbage..

[BKK Jack]

Re-greetings Mazda People,

I just wanted to say thanks for the guide on the oil change. Up to now, I've been lazy, and just letting the dealer do it. Two oil changes ago, they left the filler cap off, and at some indeterminate time failed to reinstall the three front bolts to secure the plastic undertray. I just discovered that tonight when I crawled under the car to investigate the process. Before I saw this, I was a little on the fence about doing it myself, but the undertray was the kicker.

I finally got my garage organized and spiffed to the point where I can start doing my own maintenance, but before I do the oil, I'm going to the dealer to bitch them out and get my undertray bolts.

Besides the job, the divorce, the remarriage, and the typical daily BS, this is the reason, I haven't check in here much over the last couple of years (well this really accounts for about the last 10 months).
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/9846/p1000533w.jpg
Guess I should change my last sig line. Off to find out about the cabin air filter.

[SDSpeed3]

FYI: Walmart is running a special on Pennzoil Platinum:

In addition to costing only $20 for 5qts they will send you a $15 Walmart card in the mail!

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m234/wave180/DSC02361.jpg

Limit two per household

I'm headed there right now.

[Oneurt]

Re-greetings Mazda People,

I just wanted to say thanks for the guide on the oil change. Up to now, I've been lazy, and just letting the dealer do it. Two oil changes ago, they left the filler cap off, and at some indeterminate time failed to reinstall the three front bolts to secure the plastic undertray. I just discovered that tonight when I crawled under the car to investigate the process. Before I saw this, I was a little on the fence about doing it myself, but the undertray was the kicker.

I finally got my garage organized and spiffed to the point where I can start doing my own maintenance, but before I do the oil, I'm going to the dealer to bitch them out and get my undertray bolts.

Besides the job, the divorce, the remarriage, and the typical daily BS, this is the reason, I haven't check in here much over the last couple of years (well this really accounts for about the last 10 months).
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/9846/p1000533w.jpg
Guess I should change my last sig line. Off to find out about the cabin air filter.

Wow the lube techs are lazy everywhere. My last oil change was done by Mazda where I am living at for school and they lost a bunch of my undertray bolts as well. Luckily I have a friend who is a technician and he replaced them for me. But still how hard is it to keep track of 6 bolts lol. I'm just glad none of the other things haven't happened. The same goes for any of the 3rd rate oil change places, heard enough stories about them to just avoid them and do it myself.

I went to Walmart the two days ago for that Pennzoil oil and that offer isnt' good in Canada :(. Oh well i'm coming back home in a week so I'll pick it up when I'm back in OR.

[BKK Jack]

Changed the oil today. Yesterday was a mini-bonanza buying new jackstands and a floorjack to replace the ones that somehow went missing between leaving California in 2000 and then moving to Virginia in 2006.

When I got under the car, I found that in addition to the 2 push pins holding the under cowling (?) where just 2, count em, 2 bolts. One of which was rusted so badly, I couldn't get it out. None of the 5 other mounting locations had the either the bolt or the clip/nut. Tomorrow is going to be fun at the dealer.

[BKK Jack]

Double post.

[Tyrdstorm]

FYI: Walmart is running a special on Pennzoil Platinum:

In addition to costing only $20 for 5qts they will send you a $15 Walmart card in the mail!

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m234/wave180/DSC02361.jpg

Limit two per household

I'm headed there right now.

Just picked up two myself!

[Sp33dFr33k]

What are some other things that are good to check while changing your oil that most dealerships/lube places will do for you? Just the basic fluids?

Also, does this void your warranty doing it yourself? I've talked to some GM mechanics and their dealership subscribed to this policy. Not sure...

There have been people that bumped heads with Mazda for doing their own oil changes. The best thing to do if you change the oil yourself is keep receipts for oil and filters. Take pics or vids that are date stamped of the oil change and mileage. This way you have proof that the oil changes were done at the right time and/or mileage. Otherwise Mazda has no idea that you were performing oil changes when you should.

[khoney]

Are you tired of burning your fingers on hot oil? Do you hate going fishing in your catch pan when you drop the plug in it, saying "S**t, that's hot"? Are you too cheap to buy a Fumoto drain valve? Well, folks, have I got the product for you. For only $69.99, we'll send you this handy-dandy tool. No more muss.. no more fuss.. no more pink fingers. Act now, and we'll throw in a free set of Rhino Ramps ;)

OK, so I got to thinking how I could unscrew my hot plug without the usual problems. A 1/2" section of SCH40 PVC hack-sawed about an inch down the middle did the trick. Unfortunately my hand slipped at an inopportune moment, and I ended up getting oil all over myself anyway, but you get the idea... ;)

[Tyrdstorm]

Changed my oil today using this how-to. Worked great, thanks!!!

[DR_]

Sorry I did not search much but I am wondering has anyone just cut out a bigger hole in the plastic undertrey so that they could access the filter without removing the trey?

[oaklandopen]

Sorry I did not search much but I am wondering has anyone just cut out a bigger hole in the plastic undertrey so that they could access the filter without removing the trey?

you certainly could if you wanted to

[nypz]

Do places like jiff lube and garages have the filters needed?

[iplaythemic]

Sorry I did not search much but I am wondering has anyone just cut out a bigger hole in the plastic undertrey so that they could access the filter without removing the trey?

I did! I don't have the patience to remove that thing every time. I don't see where having that little chunk missing is really going to hurt anything anyway.

[Kain]

You could buy a hinge and latch from any hardware store and make yourself a trap door.