Problems with Manifold Installation - help please

[Black03MSP]

I just got done installing the protege garage intake manifold, however i cant get the car to run


I reinstalled the EGR that comes with the manifold if ordered. The VICS are BOTH removed and off the car. THe sensor that was on top of the manifold that goes to the fuel rail was tapped off the nipple on the passengers side of the manifold.

The car when started will rev up to 2-3K RPM then sputter and die. It also pops occasionally when dying.

I cant for the life of me find out what the problem is.

Any and all help is greatly greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Jeffrey

[orng1]

Try tightening the manifold dowm some more, it may not be this with your car but we didn't torque it down well enough on another friends car and had a leak at the gasket. See if that helps, also might try some carb cleaner around the base to see if it is leaking. Other than that any vac lines or clamps as always.

[dirtysouth_msp]

Did you completely remove the VTCS/VICS solenoids? If I'm not mistaken, they need to be left in the car and the electrical connectors need to be connected. However, you need to just cap off the vacuum connections on the solenoid. This way, the ecu still thinks that VTCS/VICS are still there and working, but in reality, the operation of the solenoids has no effect.

[Black03MSP]

i have the VTCS/VICS totally removed. So do i have to hook it up exactly the way the other one was, except capped lines after the solonoid? (meaning the vics vacuum line from the manifold to the solonoid is connected, just the hose that goes from the solonoid to the actuator is capped since the actuator is removed?)

[Black03MSP]

i have the VTCS/VICS totally removed. So do i have to hook it up exactly the way the other one was, except capped lines after the solonoid? (meaning the vics vacuum line from the manifold to the solonoid is connected, just the hose that goes from the solonoid to the actuator is capped since the actuator is removed?)

I got the car to the point where when i start it, it'll rev up to 2-3k like before, however when it reaches idle, it struggles to stay alive (sputtering, occasional clunk..) but it'll consistantly go between idle and 2-3k RPM all the while making the noises.

Ive tightened everything, reinstalled the VICS/VTCS solonoids and capped the part that went to the actuators off.

Anything else before i pay someone to fix it?

[gone_fishin]

I got the car to the point where when i start it, it'll rev up to 2-3k like before, however when it reaches idle, it struggles to stay alive (sputtering, occasional clunk..) but it'll consistantly go between idle and 2-3k RPM all the while making the noises.

Ive tightened everything, reinstalled the VICS/VTCS solonoids and capped the part that went to the actuators off.

Anything else before i pay someone to fix it?

A quick trouble shooting:

You obviously have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Your first priority is to check whether or not the holes that the VICS and the VCTS butterfly rods go through (on the left side of the IM itself) are sealed. They should have been threaded with a 1/8 NPT and had a bolt threaded in with JB weld. If not, there's your problem.

The second thing you need to check is, like someone said, the connections to and from the VICS and VCTS actuators. Although you no longer have your VICS and VCTS as functional units, the actuators still need to be hooked up as they were before. The end of the actuator rod will just be free-- make sure it has enough clearance to move.

The third is to re-check all of your vacuum lines. Make sure all vacuum lines are where they are supposed to be. If you're not running a specific vacuum line, make sure it's capped and sealed.

The fourth is to check your throttle body. Make sure all of the sensors and and lines are where they are supposed to be. Retourque it down, and all of the bolts to the manifold itself-- especially those holding the ports to the head.

You did remember to reinstall a new gasket right? The gasket needed to have been oriented so that the convex side of the adhesive was facing the Intake manifold ports. It should have been also lubricated with the shop manual-spec lubricant.

You also need to re-check that your fuel rail is press-fit correctly. If it's not, the O-rings won't properly seal.

Lastly, make sure that both ends of your EGR pipe are secured.

[Black03MSP]

A quick trouble shooting:

You obviously have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Your first priority is to check whether or not the holes that the VICS and the VCTS butterfly rods go through (on the left side of the IM itself) are sealed. They should have been threaded with a 1/8 NPT and had a bolt threaded in with JB weld. If not, there's your problem.

The second thing you need to check is, like someone said, the connections to and from the VICS and VCTS actuators. Although you no longer have your VICS and VCTS as functional units, the actuators still need to be hooked up as they were before. The end of the actuator rod will just be free-- make sure it has enough clearance to move.

Im using the Protegegarage intake manifold. the one that is single runner with no ports for either VCTS or VICS

The third is to re-check all of your vacuum lines. Make sure all vacuum lines are where they are supposed to be. If you're not running a specific vacuum line, make sure it's capped and sealed.

double, triple checked but not saying that this couldnt be the case

The fourth is to check your throttle body. Make sure all of the sensors and and lines are where they are supposed to be. Retourque it down, and all of the bolts to the manifold itself-- especially those holding the ports to the head.

did so, I have the two coolant lines in the side and the single vacuum line going into the top

You did remember to reinstall a new gasket right? The gasket needed to have been oriented so that the convex side of the adhesive was facing the Intake manifold ports. It should have been also lubricated with the shop manual-spec lubricant.

Yup, i used a sealant although i really think that this might be the problem. unfortunately

You also need to re-check that your fuel rail is press-fit correctly. If it's not, the O-rings won't properly seal.

All seated properly, but i reused the old seals

Lastly, make sure that both ends of your EGR pipe are secured.

The EGR WAS loose on the exhuast side. Im now 100% sure that this is tight on both sides

Thanks for reponding everyone so far.

[Kansei]

Yeah, and just for clarification, you don't need the actuators hooked up to anything at all, I don't have my VTCS actuator installed anymore.

You can just have the solenoids plugged in with NO vacuum lines going in or out of them. Why even bother putting caps on the solenoids since they aren't hooked into the vacuum system at all? just make sure the vacuum lines that went to the solenoids are capped or hooked up to something else.

[xelderx]

Get a can of contact cleaner...the really flammable stuff. Crank the car and start spraying it around suspicious areas of the intake manifold...gasket areas, vacuum hoses, anywhere there could be a leak. If and when you find the leak the idle will change significantly as the contact cleaner is sucked into the intake.

[gone_fishin]

so did tightening the EGR pipe fix the problem?

[Black03MSP]

so did tightening the EGR pipe fix the problem?

it definately helped, but still have erratic idle/strange sounding clunk every so often.

I wish i had the time/energy to diagnose and fix the problem but i think im gonna take it to the highly rated local performance shop and have them take a peak at it. money < frustration in my opinion. I'll keep looking around for that vac leak with spray tomorrow afternoon maybe.

Again i appreciate those of you who've responded's time and knowledge

[djarkitek]

make sure the bolts to everything are secure. Mine did this after the install becuase the two bolts holding the egr valve came lose and the egr valve was just dangling there. it's behind the manifold and i did'nt know till i felt it. also make sure you got all new gaskets and that all the bolts are secure....it sounds like something is letting air out here and there , just like mine did when the egr was lose....so yea, and check the throttle body too those bolts might be lose, or the gasket might be fucked. if you got a new one, which you should have, make sure you got ALL of the old gasket off...or itll leak. goodluck