Wastegate Actuator.. Which to Get?

[Metallic36]

I'm planning to just replace my WGA because of that hesitation crap, but which one is suitable for the MSP? I saw one that is 12-14 psi, even though I'm not boosting that high.. I saw one for 6 psi but I'm boosting around 8-9 psi. Any thoughts?

[BOOSTR]

The ATP 6 psi unit is what most people have replaced there's with, unless their car is modified to the point of needing a higher psi WGA.

What type of hesitation are you experiencing and are you flashed?

[210_ZOOM]

check out *********************** JDM Sam can hook it up. PM him or check his site for contact info. He will not sell you crap, only watcha need. Get with him. About everything in my sig came from him. Great prices and outstanding service.

[Pirana]

Yeap, I got mine there too.

[Metallic36]

Not flashed, usually experiencing a jerk feeling when I'm accelerating and the boost is kicked in, foot is not all the way to the floor but half-way, feels like the turbo just stops for a second. Sometimes it will jerk the hell out of you then other times it's just a little jerk.. just really annoying.


The ATP 6 psi unit is what most people have replaced there's with, unless their car is modified to the point of needing a higher psi WGA.

What type of hesitation are you experiencing and are you flashed?

[BOOSTR]

Your wastegate should be tested before you go and replace it. If your holding boost and not boosting abnormally, its not the cause of your hesitation more than likely.

[Pmpkinhead]

If you have the stock WGA and have over 40k miles, you better test it before you damage your pistons. It will cause over boost. Been there, done that.

[Rush]

Not flashed, usually experiencing a jerk feeling when I'm accelerating and the boost is kicked in, foot is not all the way to the floor but half-way, feels like the turbo just stops for a second. Sometimes it will jerk the hell out of you then other times it's just a little jerk.. just really annoying.
That sounds very familiar. I replaced my WGA with the 6psi choice .. Unless you're gonna be running some major mods, there just isn't need for a different one.

My jerking problem hasn't disappeared .. but it's definitely much improved since replacing the WGA. I have a feeling that it's all my mods plus the fact that I still don't have on a tuned Unichip yet that's causing the remaining stuttering, so my case isn't the perfect example.

[fr0st]

i have that jerking occasianolly.. it's moire when i let go the gas a bit and then give it some.. it has doen that a few times..

when you guys say testing the wga you mean blowing in the hose right?

[alexB]

i have that jerking occasianolly.. it's moire when i let go the gas a bit and then give it some.. it has doen that a few times..

when you guys say testing the wga you mean blowing in the hose right?

I tested mine that way yesterday. There is suppossed to be resistance when you blow in. If not then you may have a problem. I have been having idleing issues lately. Thought it may be that. Probably the egr.

[Velocifero]

Hey Metallic, we are close together and I have replaced my WGA with the ATP one awhile back, if you need some help let me know. If you go to the ATP one you will boost a little more than the listed 6 psi. I have no boost controller and I am boosting 9 psi with the WGA and other mods I have. Good thing is there is little to no spiking. How did I know mine was bad, I was hitting 16-19 psi, as well as hitting boost cut, very similar to fuel cut. But you can disconnect the WGA vacuum line that is coupled with the line that goes to the BPV, disconnect it there and blow through it. resistance is good, blowing through is bad.

[fr0st]

But you can disconnect the WGA vacuum line that is coupled with the line that goes to the BPV, disconnect it there and blow through it. resistance is good, blowing through is bad.


when you mean resistance, you mean like air going through a little or no air is goin through at all?

[fr0st]

I tested mine that way yesterday. There is suppossed to be resistance when you blow in. If not then you may have a problem. I have been having idleing issues lately. Thought it may be that. Probably the egr.


my idle was terrible.. and i had a cel... got the egr done under warranty and all went well

the new egr is supposed to be more resistant

[Velocifero]

when you mean resistance, you mean like air going through a little or no air is goin through at all?
my bad, i mean like it is hitting a wall, you would have to blow pretty hard to get any through.

[alexB]

If you go to the ATP one you will boost a little more than the listed 6 psi. I have no boost controller and I am boosting 9 psi with the WGA and other mods I have. Good thing is there is little to no spiking.

Are most cases like this. I am wanting to tune my car for about 9-10 psi. If that wastegate would most likely do the same for me then I might as well replace it.Doesnt cost a whole lt either. My stock one has 52k miles on it. Wouldnt be that bad of an idea then.

[jmv]

FWIW, people say their boost has increased alot with the ATP wga, mine only increased barely 1 psi, i have a nice steady 7 now.

[alexB]

FWIW, people say their boost has increased alot with the ATP wga, mine only increased barely 1 psi, i have a nice steady 7 now.
So would it be a good thing to do or a waste off time/money. I know it isnt that expensive. But just as a figure of speech.

[Velocifero]

Like I was saying in my post it increased boost a little, and yes I believe 1 psi is the norm, but coupled with the rest of my mods I see 9 psi. And Alex I think it is very worth it.

[SergMSP]

i am installing my ATP WGA this weekend...nothing is wrong with mine but sometimes i find it boosting past 10 and i rather not even deal with the whole blowing my engine bit...inexpensive, safe, no MBC needed, i can deal with 7-9 psi...so ATP WGA FTW!

[alexB]

Like I was saying in my post it increased boost a little, and yes I believe 1 psi is the norm, but coupled with the rest of my mods I see 9 psi. And Alex I think it is very worth it.

What other mods do you have? Just curious. Cuz I have most of the basics myself.

[Rush]

Replacing the WGA is DEFINITELY worth it.

It only makes sense that how much boost increase you see depends on what other mods you have.

Before I replaced mine, I would spike to about 8psi and then bleed back to 5psi. It was bad.

Now, with it replaced, I hold a steady 8psi. That's with an SRI, FMIC, hardpipes, BOV, relocated MAF, PG intake manifold, non-cracked stock exhaust manifold, and a half-fux0red exhaust.

I think I need to clean my EGR. I haven't touched it since I bought the car in July '03. Shame on me. :( .. Maybe I'll do that on Thursday when I'm replacing my upper radiator hose.

[Velocifero]

What other mods do you have? Just curious. Cuz I have most of the basics myself.
Turbohoses SMIC, DSMConvert Hardpipes (kinda customized though), Vibrant Exhaust with cat removed and electronic cutout installed. I stay steady at 9 psi, if it is cold I'll spike to about 9.5-.75, but it will settle back at 9 and holds pretty steady throughout the powerband. On a nice 50-60* day it wont spike at all, but pulls mean as hell. gottta love a cool sunny day with a turbo car in the mountains.

[alexB]

Replacing the WGA is DEFINITELY worth it.

It only makes sense that how much boost increase you see depends on what other mods you have.

Before I replaced mine, I would spike to about 8psi and then bleed back to 5psi. It was bad.

Now, with it replaced, I hold a steady 8psi. That's with an SRI, FMIC, hardpipes, BOV, relocated MAF, PG intake manifold, non-cracked stock exhaust manifold, and a half-fux0red exhaust.

I think I need to clean my EGR. I haven't touched it since I bought the car in July '03. Shame on me. :( .. Maybe I'll do that on Thursday when I'm replacing my upper radiator hose.

I saw the pics of your cracked manifold. I too have a similar crack. Not sure if it is affecting my car though. Dont see any black markings around that would be from exhaust gases leaking out.. Did you notice a difference when you got the replacement?

[Rush]

I saw the pics of your cracked manifold. I too have a similar crack. Not sure if it is affecting my car though. Dont see any black markings around that would be from exhaust gases leaking out.. Did you notice a difference when you got the replacement? Hmm. Well, the major crack that I did have -- on the back of the heat shield, there was a VERY distinct black line (the same exact shape/location as the crack) from the exhaust gases belching out. I had a really bad leak. So after I put on the un-cracked manifold, I did feel a difference. Nothing huge, but anything that helps my car to run smoother gets a thumbs-up in my book.

If you don't see any black markings on the back of your heat shield, though .. I bet that the crack(s) in your manifold haven't made it the entire way through yet. Because you WILL see nasty black residue. It doesn't take long to appear.

Edit: You HAVE checked the back of your heat shield for black icky, right?

[alexB]

Hmm. Well, the major crack that I did have -- on the back of the heat shield, there was a VERY distinct black line (the same exact shape/location as the crack) from the exhaust gases belching out. I had a really bad leak. So after I put on the un-cracked manifold, I did feel a difference. Nothing huge, but anything that helps my car to run smoother gets a thumbs-up in my book.

If you don't see any black markings on the back of your heat shield, though .. I bet that the crack(s) in your manifold haven't made it the entire way through yet. Because you WILL see nasty black residue. It doesn't take long to appear.

Edit: You HAVE checked the back of your heat shield for black icky, right?

I havent had a heat shield on for a while.

[Rush]

I havent had a heat shield on for a while.
Uh-oh.

In that case .. then I don't know how you'd tell. The exhaust manifold itself (the cracked one, I mean) didn't have ANY trace of black ick on it -- despite the fact that it was piled on the back of the heat shield.

And since the exhaust manifold doesn't really sit up tight against anything else, to give any indication .. Do you still have your heat shield? You could pop it back on for a week or so, then check the back of it. That'd tell you.

[jmv]

well like i said my increase was only one PSI, and that was with my FMIC and hardpipes, SRI, and 2.5 midpipe.

As for whether its a good investment, or a waste of money..... well i think that depends entirely on the condition of your stock wastegate. If you get bad spikes with no MBC, or have your boost building normally but don't feel the power from it soemtimes, you should check your WGA by blowing into it. I know when i blew into my new one, i blew pretty damn hard and it didn't leak out a bit. So if yours is leaking, then hell ya its a great thing to do and could easily save your motor. If you don't see any problems with your old one, i don't see that it really makes a difference.

[Metallic36]

Yes, that would be great if I could get some help.. honestly I don't know too much about what I'm doing but want to learn. I have a TurboXS boost controller and a Greddy Turbo Timer, that's all the mods for now that I have. I did have my check engine light on a while back and it said exhaust leak.. haven't checked it out though, figured since I was wanting to upgrade the exhaust anyway that I could fix it all at one time.. My boost controller is turned one full turn, stays good at about 8 psi but will occasionally go up to 12 although it doesn't feel like it most of the time.. maybe if you had some time I could bring it down to ATL and let you drive it and you could tell me what you think? I'd really appreciate your help. Or, if you meet up with everyone on Thursday nights at that mall, I could come down that way sometime. Just a thought, I'd honestly love for someone to just tell me more of what I need and what the hell that jolting crap is.. it did it today several times when I was accelerating and just cruising along on my way to the ATL airport. It feels pointless to play around with other cars, damn jerking. When the jerking started it was after I had driven for 10 minutes, the first time it did it was a HUGE jerk, like my engine stalled or something. Then my boost gauge changed from staying at 5 psi forever, to actually going above that, going all the way to 7, 8, and 9. You couldn't feel anything though, it didn't feel any more powerful even though the gauge was reading that. Then I put on the boost controller, kinda put it up too high to begin with, then I put it to one-half turn and it felt really shitty, so I put it up one full turn and it feels really good now but has started the jerking crap again. For a couple days it didn't do it but so much for that now. Edited to add: I'm almost at 80,000 miles now..



Turbohoses SMIC, DSMConvert Hardpipes (kinda customized though), Vibrant Exhaust with cat removed and electronic cutout installed. I stay steady at 9 psi, if it is cold I'll spike to about 9.5-.75, but it will settle back at 9 and holds pretty steady throughout the powerband. On a nice 50-60* day it wont spike at all, but pulls mean as hell. gottta love a cool sunny day with a turbo car in the mountains.

[khaosman]

Which WGA are you guys getting, this one: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-011B&Category_Code=WGT
?

[jmv]

that looks like it. I know JDM Sam sells em at *************.com also.

[Velocifero]

Which WGA are you guys getting, this one: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-011B&Category_Code=WGT
?
that is it, they use it on transverse SR20 motors

[Metallic36]

Any thoughts on the Turbonetics Evolution Wastegate?