Speed3 Shorten shifter travel

[Rotus8]

Today I modified my shifter for shorter travel. On the Speed3, the way the shifter is built the cable attachment is about as high as you can make it without interfering with the console and making a bump in the boot. So the alternative is to shorten the lever on the transmission. This is not for the faint of heart! It requires a significant, but not difficult, disassembly of the transmission. It's not really very hard but does require a few tools. It took me a couple of hours. I suggest carefully reading through the whole thing before starting to be sure you have all the tools and materials and are sure you want to do it. I take no responsibility for munched parts or disabled cars. Here goes.

First, remove the intercooler cover, 2 bolts, to improve access. Now remove the air box. To remove the air box, remove the MAF cable connector by pushing the release down and pull. Loosen the clamp on the big rubber hose on the air box lid, release the two lid catches, and remove the lid, twisting a bit to get the rubber hose to let go. Remove the filter. Remove the bottom part of the box by releasing the rubber loop on the passenger side and releasing the rubber mount on the driver's side - you pull the white plastic clip out then slide the rubber towards the back of the car. You can now remove the box by pulling hard to release two rubber mounts on the bottom. The transmission shift linkage is now revealed and looks like this.
http://i15.tinypic.com/2j48to7.jpg
Pop off the two cable ends with a couple of screwdrivers.
http://i5.tinypic.com/2dqips9.jpg
Shift the transmission through all seven gears to famailarize yourself with how it works. You can move the big weight forward and back, and lift up or push down on the main pivot. It goes up one step, and down two steps with the last one for reverse.

This is the point to stop if you are not sure of yourself. After this you start to take apart the real bits that could be difficult if you make a mistake. You have been warned.

Remove this bolt. This picture shows it after a couple of steps but it is best to do it now. This is a funny bolt with a pin sticking out that is the shifter guide.
http://i18.tinypic.com/2lwpqhl.jpg
Remove the two bolts that hold the shifter cross bell crank onto the transmission. Remove the bell crank - keep it clean, it's kind of greasy.
http://i12.tinypic.com/4hk3oqu.jpg
Remove the three remaining bolts that hold the shifter in. Pull the shifter mechanism out. You may have to tap on it a bit to break the sealant free. Also, you have to wiggle it around a bit to get it out, but it will come. It will be a bit drippy so have a rag handy to avoid slopping transmision oil around.
http://i12.tinypic.com/2hf4ec3.jpg
You should now see this (Eek!). Don't drop anything in the hole!
http://i19.tinypic.com/42wrqlt.jpg
This is the shifter mechanism.
http://i15.tinypic.com/3zksj8i.jpg
Wrap the shifter mechanism in a plastic bag with the lever sticking out so it doesn't get crap in it. Close up the end with some tape.
http://i12.tinypic.com/4dpckk3.jpg
Here's the part of the lever we are going to modify. The idea is to move the ball where the cable attaches, closer to the main pivot, making the amount of cable movement required less to make it shift. Remove the big weight with two bolts - remember where it goes so you can put it back later.
http://i9.tinypic.com/44i7d5w.jpg
Put the lever in a vise.
http://i12.tinypic.com/2zjhohh.jpg
and grind off the peened end of the pivot ball.
http://i5.tinypic.com/48odrwg.jpg
Use a hammer and punch and drive the pivot ball out of the lever.
http://i12.tinypic.com/3yg26g7.jpg
Drill a hole for the new position of the pivot ball. Use a letter size drill, size "O". The size of the hole is important so only use this size drill and be sure it is in good condition and sharp. Position the center of the hole at the edge of the mark where the original pivot base was, and just far enough away from the edge so there is no possibility of the hole breaking out. The hole should be about 1.8" away from the main pivot. This gives about a 20% reduction in throw. Center punch and carefully drill. Chamfer the top of the hole slightly.

[Edit: After living with the modification for a week, I think putting this hole closer to the middle of the lever might be a good idea. Where I put the hole, the neutral position of the shifter is a bit to the rear of center so a bit more forward won't hurt unless you have really short arms :). Putting the hole further away from the edge would be a little stronger.]
http://i12.tinypic.com/2ev94c4.jpg
Clean up the nub on the bottom of the pivot ball. Drill and tap the nub for a #10-32 screw. Drill with a #21 drill, about 3/4" deep.
http://i13.tinypic.com/3y78mt4.jpg
Insert the pivot ball into the new hole. The letter O drill will result in a slight interference fit so it will have to be pressed into the hole. It can be done in a vice if you are careful.
http://i15.tinypic.com/4c7z4f9.jpg
Put some loctite on a #10-32 1/2" long screw with a washer and screw it into the back of the ball mount to be sure it never comes out.
http://i15.tinypic.com/48qu3gm.jpg
Put the big weight back on the end of the shifter lever. Remove the plastic bag from the shifter mechanism. Clean up the surfaces on the bottom of the shifter cap and the mating transmission surface. Smear on a thin layer of high temperature silicone.
http://i9.tinypic.com/2rxv72r.jpg
Jocky the shifter back into the transmission. It will require a bit of jiggling and fiddling, but it will go in. Put in the three bolts you removed last with some loctite. Verify that you can shift the transmission by moving the lever like you did before taking it apart. You should be able to shift to all seven positions of the pattern. If it won't, take out the bolts and try again. (When I did it, it went right in and there didn't seem to be any way to get it wrong, but I am sure it is possible.)
http://i19.tinypic.com/3zhrt4k.jpg
Put the bell crank back and install the last two bolts with loctite.
http://i5.tinypic.com/4bjnwnc.jpg
Attach the cables by pushing them onto their respective balls.

Put the guide pin bolt back in; use some thread sealant on it because it threads into the oily part of the transmission. You don't have to make it super tight, it isn't holding anything but just has to stay there.

Reassemble the air box and intercooler cover and you are done.

By the way, if you hate the way it feels, it is reversable. Take it all apart, push the pivot ball out after removing the screw and press it back into the original hole and replace the screw.

[Edit: If you like the way it feels after driving it for a few weeks, you could pull it out and weld the pivot ball to the lever. This will alleviate any fear that it will come apart.]

[dread]

Nice write up and you have some balls for attempting this but I don't see how this shortens throws

[Rotus8]

Nice write up and you have some balls for attempting this but I don't see how this shortens throws
Since the cable attachment point is closer to the shifter pivot, it takes less cable movement for the same swing of the lever. Less cable movement translates to less shifter movement.

[bbrich57]

Nice write up and you have some balls for attempting this but I don't see how this shortens throws

I agree, he does have balls trying this w/a new car, but it is a very nice write-up.
Rotus, you trying to take the beansoldiers place?? (rlaugh)

dread,
I see exactly how it shortens the throw. By moving the cable ball mount closer to the internal linkage it's moving, you are reducing the travel it has to make. Think of the lever's movement as a circle. The tighter you make a circle, the faster around the circumference it can go. You are also reducing the mechanical advantage @ the shift lever, but w/one comes the other. It's the nature of physics.
Short throw shifters do exactly the same thing only from the other end.

My big concern here is how close the new hole is to the edge of the lever. It looks like some overzealous shifting could cause it to crack and/or break? If not right away, @ least over time. Also, how many ppl have number/letter drill bits in their tool boxes?
None the less, nice write up and well thought out. My congrats, Rotus!!

[Rotus8]

My big concern here is how close the new hole is to the edge of the lever. It looks like some overzealous shifting could cause it to crack and/or break? If not right away, @ least over time.
I thought about the strength part and the lever is quite beefy, about 1/4" thick steel. The ball mount has a large integrated washer, plus the washer and screw on the back helps distribute the force over a large area of the lefer. Moving the hole closer to the middle of the lever doesn't change the strength significantly, but moves the shifter handle further back which seemed to me not what I wanted. Time will tell.

[bbrich57]

Well, one might do a little home case hardening, if one has an oxy/Acetylene torch. WhaddoUthink? Would that help or make it worse?

[dread]

it doesn't look much closer to me that is why i don't see why it shortens throws. I agree that it is very close to the edge of the metal and would be concerned.

[Rotus8]

it doesn't look much closer to me that is why i don't see why it shortens throws. I agree that it is very close to the edge of the metal and would be concerned.
Well, it is a bit more than 20% closer, which makes the throw 20% shorter. I must say driving it, it makes all the difference. With trans mount and solid shifter bushings, the shifts are nice and positive, just too long. Now it feels right to me. Dropping the knob down an inch or so would make it really short, but I suspect it would be too stiff. It's largely a matter of taste. I am going to drive it this way for a while before changing anything more.

I don't think there will be a strength problem, but I will keep an eye on it and if it looks like it's moving or loosening up, a couple of tack welds will solve it. Makes it harder to undo though. When I get used to it if I decide it is really right, I'll probably weld it up anyway, just to make sure there are no problems.

[WetsuitxNinja]

So were you in the shower one day and think this up? Looks like a good idea, I wonder why mazda wouldnt just do that from the get go?

Does it feel notchier than before? coming from a p5 and having a SS on it, I got over how notchy it could be at times, and have put up with the stock shifter on the 3 for a year now just so I dont have to deal with that feeling.. ..

[bbrich57]

I agree that even w/my TWM SS and solid bushings the shift feels too long.
What we need is a progessive shifter... WRC style. Now THAT would be cool, IMO.
Ninj, this guys is a racer (see his Lotus7) and I suspect is used to thinking in these terms... cheaper, better mods, a little at a time.

[Rotus8]

So were you in the shower one day and think this up? Looks like a good idea, I wonder why mazda wouldnt just do that from the get go?

Does it feel notchier than before? coming from a p5 and having a SS on it, I got over how notchy it could be at times, and have put up with the stock shifter on the 3 for a year now just so I dont have to deal with that feeling.. ..
It is a bit notchy, but it's supposed to feel like a sport's car - at least mine is. Ever driven a Ferrari? This is pure butter by comparison.

Anyway, after living with it for a week, I really like it. I think it would be OK to move that hole closer to the middle of the lever as the stick position in neutral is a bit to the rear of center. If anyone else wants to try this I suggest doing that if you are worried about the strength issue.

[Rotus8]

I have edited the original post with some of the ideas since I wrote it.

[C'ville]

You are a brave..brave man,two thumbs up for the man with the big balls.(thumb) (thumb)

[MM3Canuck]

Has anyone else done this yet?

[djltoronto]

Great write up...

I Modified the opposite end of the shifter linkage...
While I was modifying mine, I thought about doing it the way you did, but I figured my way would be easier :)

Yours is ultimately better though. By moving the linkage on the shifter itself, it does touch the shifter boot. Not enough to cause concern for me..

Either way.... great write up...

Oh, and mine is a just 3 sport... not a speed3 :(

[Rotus8]

Yours is ultimately better though. By moving the linkage on the shifter itself, it does touch the shifter boot. Not enough to cause concern for me..

Oh, and mine is a just 3 sport... not a speed3 :(
Thanks for the compliment. I read your post carefully before starting mine, thinking I might do something similar. It looks like a good job. On the speed3, the cable attachment on the shifter is already higher than the one on the 3 sport so raising it much at all is not really an option. It is already pretty close to the bend in the stick and the boot. You can easily feel the cable through the boot. There are also some additional pieces having to do with the reverse lockout mechanism that makes this kind of mod difficult.

I suspect that is why TWM hasn't come out with a speed3 shifter yet. I'll be interested to see how they solve this.

[bbrich57]

I don't own a speed either, but +1 to TWM.
Very clever, Rotus. I like... especially when drilling the new hole closer the the middle.
IYO, could the feel be made less notchy by adding additional weight to the end... more counter-ballast?

[Rotus8]

I don't own a speed either, but +1 to TWM.
Very clever, Rotus. I like... especially when drilling the new hole closer the the middle.
IYO, could the feel be made less notchy by adding additional weight to the end... more counter-ballast?
I have been considering playing with the weight. First I thought I might remove it and see what it feels like. The inerta slows down the shift but helps smooth through the rough spots. It is an easy thing to play with - pull the air box out and there it is. Adding weight temporarily with duct tape & tie wraps is good enough for experimentation.

Is the tranny shift likage on the 5-speed similar to the 6? Just curious.

[MM3Canuck]

Hmmm this seems to be a great mod. I need my shifts a bit stiffer and shorter.

Just not sure what my dad is going to say when I start pulling things out of the tranny, start drilling and replacing things!!! He doesn't agree to mod's on brand new cars!! (I bought this car from my hard earned money, maybe thats why hes worried?!)

Anyone here wanna talk to my dad?!!!!

[bbrich57]

Is the tranny shift likage on the 5-speed similar to the 6? Just curious.

I'm not sure I can answer that intelligently w/o tearing out my airbox, but I think it is similar. Not sure about the weight though.
Removing it will probably make the shifts more difficult and notchy, as you indicate.
I think overcoming a little more inertia would be easier and the lesser of two evils.
You seem to know as well as I do... every thing you do has alternate effects, some good and some not so good.

[bbrich57]

Hmmm this seems to be a great mod. I need my shifts a bit stiffer and shorter.

Just not sure what my dad is going to say when I start pulling things out of the tranny, start drilling and replacing things!!! He doesn't agree to mod's on brand new cars!! (I bought this car from my hard earned money, maybe thats why hes worried?!)

Anyone here wanna talk to my dad?!!!!

Sure! I'll talk to him for you. I'm probably as old as, if not older than, he is.
I'll tell him that your kids have to make mistakes and learn on their own, not that I think this mod is a mistake mind you.
That he can't live your life for you.
All parents want to protect their kids, and the sooner he learns that no one can do that, the "less worried" he'll be, and the happier.
Ride the wave, be there when they screw up to help bail them out, but you'll catch more flies w/honey than w/vineger.

How's that?

[tsunami]

lol ^^^ nice bbrich...

very nice mod and intuitive thinking rotus... i like it a lot... i have a regular 3 and am running a mazdaspeed sts i think once it warms up i will look under my airbox and see what i can do about shortening the throws even more...

[MM3Canuck]

Ride the wave, be there when they screw up to help bail them out, but you'll catch more flies w/honey than w/vineger.

He mostly does just that!!!
He was all against putting a Greddy exhaust system on my brothers '99 Civic SIR. But after he heard the nice sound, he had a big smile on his face...lol...oh parents, just gotta love them!!!! (thumb)

[bbrich57]

He mostly does just that!!!
He was all against putting a Greddy exhaust system on my brothers '99 Civic SIR. But after he heard the nice sound, he had a big smile on his face...lol...oh parents, just gotta love them!!!! (thumb)

So, based on what you just said, I'd say do the mod. Don't tell him, or he'll worry about it, right? Then let him, better yet, ask him to drive your car and when he asks about the shifting, tell him what you did to "improve" it. He'll probably like the improvement. He sounds like he might be a bit of a motorhead... at least @ heart if not in reality.

[MM3Canuck]

Whats a motorhead?

Well, he used to mod his cars back in the days, hes pretty handy(he had his own company ((welding, blacksmith work with all sorts of metals etc)) before moving to canada) and knows quite a bit about cars.

I would do it, doesnt seem like a lot of work, BUT im afraid of it being to notchy.

[bbrich57]

Motorhead/gearhead is slang for someone that loves to "personalize" their cars, either in performance, appearence or both. The short version.

'Sounds to me like he is pretty handy. In that case why not ask him what he thinks about the mod and would he help you, should you decide to do it?

[Rotus8]

I would do it, doesnt seem like a lot of work, BUT im afraid of it being too notchy.
I have actually never understood the term "notchy", it doesn't really apply to my feelings on any shifter.

After the mod, you can certainly feel that the synchros are working. The shifting is very positive. The gate is well defined, but with easy transitions between the selectors. It takes a good shove to shift it, but it feels really good to me. It whines a bit in 1st, but that has nothing to do with the shifter. The only thing I have to get used to is the shift to 6th requres a bit of pressure to the right to keep it from dropping back to 4th, but practice will solve this.

My comparisons:
My Lotus has a highly modified 5-speed with straight cut gears, no synchros, dog selector gears, and very quick short-shifter mounted directly on the box. Shifting it is incredible - you put some pressure on the lever, touch the clutch, and Bang, you are in the next gear. Fastest shifting manual ever. The modified MS3 box has this kind of solid feel, but the synchros are clearly there and slowing things down; should get better with breaking in. The MS3 doesn't have that nice straight cut gear music though.

My friend's 80's Ferrari has this beautiful chrome plate in the shape of a comb that you have to navigate the shift lever through (are these notches?). Incredible PITA and would be one of the first things I would change if it was mine. If the Ferrari had anywhere as nice a shift as my modded MS3, it would be great.

How a shifter feels to you is highly subjective. This mod is reversable so if you don' t like it you can put it back at the cost of another hour's work.

[MM3Canuck]

Hmmm, I really want to change somehting about the way the shifts feel...want it to be more sporty. I will print this and show it to my dad, and ask him to help me. (gossip)

Is that mod bad for any parts? Will it wear down other parts faster? Gears won't slip out of "gears" right? Why wouldn't they shorten the shifts in the factory already?

I dont know much about all this, so I have many questions!!!

[MM3Canuck]

I have actually never understood the term "notchy", it doesn't really apply to my feelings on any shifter.


Maybe, just maybe what I am thinking of is:
1. Shifting feels like your hitting things, rough feeling~

Not sure if you know what I mean, then again, I have no idea what I am talking about!!!

Just thought it would feel too mechanical? Not sure how to describe it.

[Rotus8]

Maybe, just maybe what I am thinking of is:
1. Shifting feels like your hitting things, rough feeling~

Not sure if you know what I mean, then again, I have no idea what I am talking about!!!

Just thought it would feel too mechanical? Not sure how to describe it.
It is very difficult to put into words how a shifter feels. I admit I have the advantage that I have taken apart and rebuilt a number of transmissions, from FWD Saabs to full on race boxes. If you can imagine what is happening inside when you move the lever it helps you relate the feeling to the mechanical bits.

The big weight on the lever really helps smooth things out. Even so, you can feel the synchros start to engage, spin up the lay shaft, then slide on into the engagement spline. When you shorten the travel, each of these little feelings are more apparent and the effort to move the shift knob goes up. It is a simple matter of levers, you have less mechanical advantage when you reduce the throw.

Mazda designed the standard 3 for every-day drivers. They like to just move the lever with minimum force and don't care if it takes a little longer or requires a long travel. The MS3 is aimed at a more sporting driver so they shortened it up a bit, but still want the every-day driver to be happy. Some drivers prefer a quicker shift and shorter throw and that is where this mod comes in.

I am not trying to talk you into doing this mod - if it makes you nervous, don't do it. By all means, discuss it with your resident motorhead; he may like the idea or he might not; I suggest you follow his lead.

[bbrich57]

It is very difficult to put into words how a shifter feels. I admit I have the advantage that I have taken apart and rebuilt a number of transmissions, from FWD Saabs to full on race boxes. If you can imagine what is happening inside when you move the lever it helps you relate the feeling to the mechanical bits.
Saabs!! I LOVE SAABs...well, the older ones anyway. Since GM took them over... ?????
My best friend's family were into 93's (1) and 96's (???) for years when I was growing up. 'Musta' had about 8-10 of 'em during that time. It seemed everyone in the family (4 boys included) had one.
The trans was always the weak link in them too... specifically the too small for the job bearings.



The big weight on the lever really helps smooth things out. Even so, you can feel the synchros start to engage, spin up the lay shaft, then slide on into the engagement spline. When you shorten the travel, each of these little feelings are more apparent and the effort to move the shift knob goes up. It is a simple matter of levers, you have less mechanical advantage when you reduce the throw.
See? You do understand the term notchiness, in this instance. You just described it to a tee.



I am not trying to talk you into doing this mod - if it makes you nervous, don't do it. By all means, discuss it with your resident motorhead; he may like the idea or he might not; I suggest you follow his lead.

+1. I agree w/that. Excellent suggestion.
Also, what about relocating the ball somewhere inbetween where Rotus8 put it and where Mazda did? It would be a compromise...the shifts wouldn't be as short, but less notchy too. That too is a possiblity, IMO.

[Rotus8]

Saabs!! I LOVE SAABs...well, the older ones anyway. Since GM took them over... ?????
My best friend's family were into 93's (1) and 96's (???) for years when I was growing up. 'Musta' had about 8-10 of 'em during that time. It seemed everyone in the family (4 boys included) had one.
The trans was always the weak link in them too... specifically the too small for the job bearings.



See? You do understand the term notchiness, in this instance. You just described it to a tee.




+1. I agree w/that. Excellent suggestion.
Also, what about relocating the ball somewhere inbetween where Rotus8 put it and where Mazda did? It would be a compromise...the shifts wouldn't be as short, but less notchy too. That too is a possiblity, IMO.



http://www.vintagesaab.com/sonett/yt/images/yellthi90.jpg
I had a number of 96 and 97s, including a pretty capable autocrosser 97.

I guess if that is the definitions of "notchy", my se7en has none - no synchros!

About the location of the ball for the shifter mod, while you can put the ball back where it was originally, you probably only get one chance at the location of the new hole. If I was going to design an aftermarket part to do this, I would make the lever with a continuous adjustment mechanism so it could be tuned to taste. It can't be made much shorter than I did though because the two cables will interfere with eachother.

[bbrich57]

http://www.vintagesaab.com/sonett/yt/images/yellthi90.jpg
I had a number of 96 and 97s, including a pretty capable autocrosser 97.

I guess if that is the definitions of "notchy", my se7en has none - no synchros!

About the location of the ball for the shifter mod, while you can put the ball back where it was originally, you probably only get one chance at the location of the new hole. If I was going to design an aftermarket part to do this, I would make the lever with a continuous adjustment mechanism so it could be tuned to taste. It can't be made much shorter than I did though because the two cables will interfere with eachother.


Cool!! A SonnetIII, though I'd rather have a II for autoX. What year was yours? I don't know Sonnets well enough to tell. I'd guess a 71 or 72?
I still love the 3 and 4cyl. 96's though. Talk about an underrated car for Rally and Ice racing.

The internal detents (deep slots and/or strong springs @ the balls,) as well as the other linkage, can make a shifter feel notchy too, if they are not smooth.

What I was suggesting was to put the new hole in between the original and where you had put yours. The shifts will be longer than yours, still less than stock and give the driver more mechanical advantage @ the shift lever for a less notchy feel. A compromise, as I had said.
Would that do it, IYO?

[Rotus8]

Cool!! A SonnetIII, though I'd rather have a II for autoX. What year was yours? I don't know Sonnets well enough to tell. I'd guess a 71 or 72?
I still love the 3 and 4cyl. 96's though. Talk about an underrated car for Rally and Ice racing.
I had a '69 SonettII I used for autoX. Lowered, gutted, stealth 1700 motor, big Weber, welded up freewheel, and other stuff. 1400 pounds wet. I had a '70 SonettIII that was my DD for quite a while. Had a couple of parts cars too. Also had a couple of 96's as loaners/donors. 96's were dirt cheap with blown trannys and I got pretty good a fixing them. One of them got painted up hippy style at a party one day - it was a real sight! Unfortunately no pictures survive.
What I was suggesting was to put the new hole in between the original and where you had put yours. The shifts will be longer than yours, still less than stock and give the driver more mechanical advantage @ the shift lever for a less notchy feel. A compromise, as I had said.
Would that do it, IYO?
It's hard to say without trying, and trials can be expensive. Unfortunately the lever we are drilling holes in seems permantly attached to the main shifter shaft. I could imagine cutting the lever off, leaving a 1" stub. Then drilling that to mount a new fabricated lever which would then allow multiple versions for experimentation. Pretty drastic though.

The location I drilled the hole gives about a 20% change in the length of the lever. You can't do much more than that without interference problems. I suspect less than that isn't worth the trouble. You also might have problems getting too close to the original hole.

Reworking mechanisms someone else designed is a bitch.

[MM3Canuck]

Hmmm...

Yeah I will print your instruction, pass em' by my dad, and see what he says!!!

Probably more of a summer/spring project.

What about Shifter bushings. They just stiffen the shifts? I might just do that first...see how it feels. Where is a good place to buy them?


As BBrich was quoting:

When you shorten the travel, each of these little feelings are more apparent and the effort to move the shift knob goes up.


That is exactly what I was thinking.

[Rotus8]

What about Shifter bushings. They just stiffen the shifts? I might just do that first...see how it feels. Where is a good place to buy them?
I got mine from TWM. http://www.twmperformance.com/bushingkits/index.htm

[MM3Canuck]

Thanks for the link.

And thanks alot for all the great info Rotus and Bbrich, much appreciated.

[bbrich57]

Good Luck, Man. I'm sure you'll let us know how it works out for you?

[MM3Canuck]

Of course!!! Not just gonna suck up all you guys information, tips and tricks.

I'll let you know! Even post pics!!


(friday)

[MM3Canuck]

Rotus, because of you I am looking into the more expensive stuff!!!!!

What about the TWM Performance Mazda 3 Short Shifter kit?

Bushings, plus short shifter. Ultimate solution?

Does the stock shift knob fit on the short shifter?

Sorry about the questions, just read the big BOLD note about NOT asking questions in here!! Sorry

[Rotus8]

Rotus, because of you I am looking into the more expensive stuff!!!!!

What about the TWM Performance Mazda 3 Short Shifter kit?

Bushings, plus short shifter. Ultimate solution?

Does the stock shift knob fit on the short shifter?

Sorry about the questions, just read the big BOLT note about NOT asking questions in here!! Sorry
Well, I finally read your profile and see you have a standard 3, not a speed (doh! (doh)). There is no SS for a speed which is why I came up with this mod in the first place. For the standard 3, the TWM shifter is, although it costs a bit of change, the solid safe way to go. Already engineered, reversable without a trace, and well thought of in the community. I am 98% sure the standard knob fits, but you should check with them to be sure. The stick is shorter so your boot may be a bit baggy so you might consider a boot to match from TWM or Redline.

TWM touts their knobs for being heavy weight as helping smooth out notchiness (I am learing what it means now). On the 3, there is a big weight on the lever on the transmission already, and if you want you can experiment by adding more weight to it with zip-ties & duct tape, and when you are satisfied with it, come up with a more permanent attachment method.

Have fun.

(P.S. I think the prohibition on questions is for the thread starter.)

[MM3Canuck]

I am going with the TWM Short Shifter kit. (Boot and SS)
I contacted TWM and ask about the stock knob, they said that all their parts are engineered to fit stock OEM parts. Therefore, it is a 100% fit.

Which is good, because I really don't want to spend $100 just on a knob.

I will definitely play with the weight, and see how it feels! Thanks for the tip.

[bbrich57]

I have a std N/A 3 too (the only way they came on '04,) and the TWM sh shifter. It does come w/new aluminum bushings and is a bit notchier, but I am using the stock knob that does fit perfectly. A heavier knob might help, but @ $100 apiece. Besides, I like the stock knob.
I also went w/the shorter boot (TWM.) You could modify the stock boot to fit too. All you'd need to do is put the slots up further on the boot itself and reinstall.

[dcomiskey]

Rotus, cheers to you for doing this the right way. When I had a VW, all the SS kits were essentially re-done pivot mechanisms. All the guys doing it for the Mazda right now are doing it the difficult way be building an entirely new shift mechanism inside the car, which I'm really disappointed with. THIS is the way to go. Do you have any idea what these pieces (replacement OEM) cost from the dealer? If so, might be worth making a run of them.

[Rotus8]

Rotus, cheers to you for doing this the right way. When I had a VW, all the SS kits were essentially re-done pivot mechanisms. All the guys doing it for the Mazda right now are doing it the difficult way be building an entirely new shift mechanism inside the car, which I'm really disappointed with. THIS is the way to go. Do you have any idea what these pieces (replacement OEM) cost from the dealer? If so, might be worth making a run of them.
I really am not into doing something like this on a commercial basis, but you might contact Cashmere - he was thinking about it.

[BLACKMS3]

Alot of mechanical advantage is lost and the shifts should be stiffer with this mod... Do you think trimming off some of the weighted end help lighten the feel of the shift?

[Rotus8]

Alot of mechanical advantage is lost and the shifts should be stiffer with this mod... Do you think trimming off some of the weighted end help lighten the feel of the shift?
I tried removing the weight completely and didn't like the way it felt so I put it back on. Certainly playing around with different inertial masses would be interesting; it's largely a matter of taste IMO. Less weight means you feel the synchros more because you don't have inertia helping carry it through.

[bbrich57]

Yeah, I would think that it would reduce the smoothness and increase notchiness. 'Make it feel clunky.
In this case, more (counterweight) might be better. That is, make it feel more like the stock smoothness, while retaining the shortened throw.

[MazdaSteve3]

Drill a hole for the new position of the pivot ball. Use a letter size drill, size "O". The size of the hole is important so only use this size drill and be sure it is in good condition and sharp.

An "O" drill is .316". I thought that the hole was probably designed in metric units. Sure enough, 8mm = .315". It would be a bit tighter, though, so the O might be easier. Just FYI.

I removed the counterweight once to see what it felt like, and it was pretty harsh. A lot of impact transmitted to the hand.

Love the mod, Rotus! Nice work. Anyone done this w/o the disassembly? This area can be accessed from the underside after removing the plastic undertray (I removed the counterweight from below), but I don't remember exactly how much.

Rotus, I'm not clear on what you said about the position of the shifter knob and the position of the new hole. You said your knob was a bit farther back than original, right? So which way would the hole need to be moved to correct that?

So the side-to-side travel and effort is unaffected, no? This may be good, as I find that pushing the lever over into the 5/6 position is already a bit stiff, so I wouldn't want it to be stiffer. Does it feel strange at all having only the longitudinal throw shortened, or is it natural?

Thanks for pioneering this one!

[CosmicArkie]

A noob on this forum, I picked up on this mod from the other group.

That being said, THIS MOD ROCKS!!!!

The absolute best thing I've done to my 3. Makes it feel so much tighter over all. And I already had the bushings.

Way to go Rotus. (alright)

CosmicArkie

[AllLostThings]

Sweet write up but man I could NEVER do that...I think I'd rather take out my own spleen...Very nice job though!

[bbrich57]

Sweet write up but man I could NEVER do that...I think I'd rather take out my own spleen...Very nice job though!

Chicken!!!
No. Just kidding. It is a scary procedure, but I wanted to take this opportunity to again compliment Rotus on a ballsy move, followed by a really nice write-up.
Excellent thinking, Rotus.

[ms3guy22]

this was a cinch well kinda thanks for your help bud
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/ms3guy22/026.jpg

[bykeryder4life]

so MS3GUY22 did you make your hole more to the center of the lever? how is the position of the shifter is it about stock or more back/forward?

[ms3guy22]

to tell you the truth i just put the whole in the center to the best of my ability.

[bykeryder4life]

sorry for me not being more clear, is your shift knob in roughly the same position as stock or is it more forward/back when it's in neutral with where you put the hole on the shift lever as compared to where rotus originally put his hole

[ms3guy22]

oh yea its in the same place

[bykeryder4life]

thanks man thats just what i wanted to hear

[bykeryder4life]

just did the mod today, took about 3 hours and i love the way it feels. way shorter and better feeling shifts. i had to use a bunch of washers behind the bolt holding the pivot because i didnt drill/tap it deep enough but besides that everything went smooth. I am going to tack weld it into place permanently so i will never worry. thanks you guys for the help i would never think of this on my own

[dparm1984]

The location of the knob is not what's important, it's the location of the pivot point. Cheap short shifters just move the knob lower, whereas the good ones actually move the pivot point.

This picture explains it best. Credit to whoever drew this up -- dunno who it was, but I found it years ago.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v80/TheGSRGuy/0adb3a51-6dcc-4ca8-b600-c801bafc39a.jpg

[bykeryder4life]

yes you have it right but location of the knob is important, if you moved the new hole to a point where the shift knob was back too far you would hit the center console as you try to shift to 2nd, 4th, and 6th. likewise, if the new hole was put at a place where the shifty knob was too far forward you will hit the console shifting into R, 1st, 3rd, and 5th. so the location of the knob is important because you want it to sit at about the same location as it did when it was at the stock location on the trans. shift lever

[MazdaSteve3]

I did this mod today, but I did it without pulling the selector mechanism out of the transmission. My goals were a) minimize disassembly and b) get the shift knob in the right position, which for me, meant keeping the knob in the same position for the odd gears, and letting the knob not go as far back in the even gears. Here's what I did:

First, the additional things you'll need are a Dremel with a flex-shaft and grinding stone, and you'll need to make a special tool. The special tool is needed to press out the stud. It is simply a piece of flat steel, 3/16" or 1/4" thick, 1/2" or so wide, and about 2" long. Drill and tap a hole in the center. Grind the end of a screw to a blunt point. (The piece of steel in this picture is only 1/8" thick, but it bent during use.)

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Special%20tool.JPG


1. Put front end on ramps or jack stands.


2. Measure knob positions. You don't really have to do this, but it is good to know. I found that the stock throw third to fourth was about 4-1/16". Third gear:

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Third%20gear%20before.JPG


3. Select third gear and tape the shift knob in position.

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Tape%20knob%20in%20third.JPG


4. Remove the large splash shield under the engine and the air intake. Cover or plug the intake on the car so nothing will get in there. I also removed the weight on the end of the selector arm, but this may not be necessary.


5. Pry the end of the shifter cable off of the ball stud. Check that the shift knob is still taped in position.

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Pry%20off%20joint.JPG


6. Cover the area around the selector arm.


7. From underneath the car, grind rivet off flush with the arm. Don't grind away the entire dimple in the center, you'll need this later. Don't forget eye protection.

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Grinding%20with%20dremel.JPG

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Rivet%20after%20grinding.JPG


8. Install the special tool with C-clamps, vise-grips, what have you, making sure that the point of the screw engages the dimple in the bottom of the stud.

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Tool%20installed%20top.JPG

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Tool%20installed%20bottom.JPG


9. Tighten the screw to press the stud out of the arm.

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Stud%20pressed%20out.JPG


10. Clean up the end of the stud with a file and chamfer the edge a bit.


11. Drill and very carefully tap the stud. To keep everything metric, I used an metric 4.0 x 0.7 tap, predrilled with a 1/8" drill. Thread the screw all the way into the stud to ensure that the threads are deep enough. I used an M4x10 screw.


12. Check the ball stud for nicks, clean up with a file if needed.


13. Once again check that the shift knob hasn't moved and that the selector arm is still in the forward position. Move the cable over toward the driver's side until there is just a small clearance between the cable boot and the linkage as shown. (This is the closest the boot gets. It gets farther away in Neutral and the even numbered gears.) Mark the new position for the stud on the arm by eye.

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Approximate%20new%20position.JPG


14. Centerpunch the mark, then predrill and drill the new hole. Be aware that the drill will tend to catch and shoot through the hole when it breaks through, so keep a piece of wood under the arm to protect the transmission. Pick up the cuttings with a magnet as you go.

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Arm%20with%20pilot%20hole.JPG

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/New%20hole%20angled%20view.JPG

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/New%20hole%20straight%20view.JPG


15. Chamfer the hole on top and use the Dremel to deburr the hole on the bottom side.


16. Check the fit of the stud in the hole, adjust if needed. A tight fit is ok.


17. Install the stud and put the screw in and tighten. Check that the stud pulls down flat on the arm.

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Stud%20in%20new%20hold.JPG


18. Pop the end of the cable onto the ball.


19. Remove the tape on the shifter knob, run through all of the gears, and smile. You can measure the gear positions again to see how they compare. Third gear:

http://www.mindspring.com/~mazdasteve3/shortshift/Third%20gear%20after.JPG


20. Clean up the area, then replace the weight, air intake, and splash shield.


The third-fourth stroke was reduced from 4-1/16" to 3-3/16", which is a reduction of about 22%, though it feels like more. It's a bit notchy, but nice overall.

[Rotus8]

I did this mod today, but I did it without pulling the selector mechanism out of the transmission...
Excellent! I am interested in seeing your pictures.

[bbrich57]

That makes 2 of us... even though I don't own an MS3.

[MazdaSteve3]

I'm struggling getting these photos up. I can't modify my ftp sites. Don't know if my company has disabled this or what. Be patient.

[bbrich57]

It's cool. Just looking forward to seeing them when you can get them up. No rush.

[MazdaSteve3]

Okay, pics have been added. The ftp problem was with Microsoft (imagine that). With IE 7, you don't edit ftp sites within the browser any more, you have to check an advanced setting, then click the Page button and open in Windows Explorer. "Hey, lets change something that worked fine, and not tell anyone. Customers will like that."

Driving this morning, I wondered what the shift would feel like if I replaced the TWM solid shifter bushings with the original ones or some solid rubber ones. There is a bit of impact that is transmitted to the hand at the end of each stroke, and just a little give in the system might soften that without losing the direct feel. Just a thought, I probably won't get around to trying it.

[vinkalmann]

Hmmm...

Yeah I will print your instruction, pass em' by my dad, and see what he says!!!

Probably more of a summer/spring project.

Definitely ask your dad for his help even if you might not need it. Pops love that sort of thing ;)

[meicalnissyen]

Nice write up and you have some balls for attempting this but I don't see how this shortens throws

Get with Archimedes on that

[bbrich57]

(lol) (lol) (lol)

[meicalnissyen]

this was a cinch well kinda thanks for your help bud
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u235/ms3guy22/026.jpg

This photo has me thinkin about the OP's idea of more adjustability.

By grinding the ball's stud flush and retaining it with three 10-32's you could shoot an alternating pattern of tapped holes into the arm and make adjustments to the pivot ratio by picking a different set of holes.

[Ante]

Hey Rotus..

did you mod in the weekend..

I had planned to do something like this (as my VW had a similar shifter mech)

but was lucky that you had already documented a good way to do this.. thank you mr!

I also Made a New Shifter Weight and Shifter Bushes while i was at it..

Best mod to date.. car feels sportier now :)

I ike the fact i can return it to standard easily enough...

[specvspeedfreak]

it might have been mentioned but there is an adapter plate now so you do not have the make holes and potentially fuck some shit up ... check out mazda3 forums.com in the the modification section for jazzy's shifter adapter... i got it for 85shipped and i love it.. he also just revised it a bit will be sending new ones out for the people that have the old one like mine..