CEL: P0172 Bank 1 too Rich

[jmv]

I was sitting in my car for a decent while cleaning my steering wheel (i got leather conditioner in all the little perforations in the silver leather), with my car idling, when i look up and notice i've got a CEL. Went to autozone, he said it was code P0172 Bank 1 too rich.

Now, i just installed my unichip recently, haven't been using the high boost setting. I thought it was knocking for a while but me and a friend (susamafone) decided it was just something in the console rattling. Besides, knock and too RICH wouldn't go together, would they??

Anyone got ideas on this?? I'm getting pretty frustrated with the car.

I think i'm gonna go reset the ECU and unichip and see if the code is still there.

Thanks,
Jason

[jmv]

Well, i reset it and let it idle for quite a while, on both the regular and advanced timing maps, never got the CEL again.

Did notice however, that when i first restarted it my narrowband A/F was sitting in exactly the middle, not bouncing around like it normally does. Never moved. Eventually it started doing its thing, after maybe 5 minutes or so of just staying in the center. One thing the guy at autozone said could cause the CEL was bad O2 sensor(s). Do you think this could be a sign that my O2 is really fouled or something?? Is there any way i can check it??

Any suggestions welcome,
Thanks
Jason

[Fudgie]

Until the O2 warms up, your narrowband gauge will not move. If the cel comes back, you need to get your hands on a scantool that can give you freeze frame data and pay special attention to long and short term fuel trims. Check all intercooler and bypass valve connections. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks.

[jmv]

thanks for the input fudgie, not sure where i would get a scanner like that though, much less know how to use it and what to do with the fuel trim info.

No more CELs so far, but now the car is acting like it has a vacuum leak. I'm curious though, do most vacuum leaks cause boost spikes?? I know when i had a leak at my wastegate actuator it did, but now the idle is acting exactly the same as when i had that leak, but boost is a nice steady perfect 7. I took a look at all my vacuum lines and i can't see anything wrong.... but i mean i don't know what to look for and half the lines are covered by some protective sleeve or something anyway.

I wonder if i should take the money i was going to use for a boost tune and just spend it all on some silicone vacuum lines, or maybe to take it to Protech or some other performance shop and see if they can figure out what the hell is wrong with it.

[jmv]

okay, nother update....

took the unichip off, car runs great. And it actually feels just as fast as it did before.... ?!?

I'm planning on driving up to dallas as soon as i have a free weekend to have JDM Sam take a look at it.