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jmv
02-13-2007, 03:44 PM
So, can anyone try to put into words for me what detonation sounds like??

I'm afraid i may be getting some now with my unichip installed. This is at stock boost with the 'regular' map, FWIW. In 2nd gear, and it seems like only 2nd from what i can tell but i could be wrong, i get this weird sound thats concerning me a little bit. Its only north of like 4K rpms. I filled up with fresh 93 (thats what i always put in) from a different station than the last tank, same noise.

I sure hope its not detonation, i dunno why it would do that with the unichip???

Kansei
02-13-2007, 03:47 PM
You can check your spark plugs to see if you are getting detonation. Even detonation you can't hear will be visible. To get the most accurate reading, theoretically you should operate your engine full throttle, hitting redline and all that, and then shut down without idling or running low RPM.. then of course wait for the engine to cool and pull the plugs.

If the normally white insulator is a light brown, then you are fine. If the white insulated looks pitted, you need different plugs (not just new plugs.. different plugs).

You could be getting detonation due to a different air/fuel mixture that you are getting with the unichip, even at stock boost.

jmv
02-13-2007, 03:52 PM
I don't have the tools to check my spark plugs here at school.

FWIW, i just put in NGK ZFR7F-11's at the same time as the unichip, gapped to .030"

JDM Sam
02-13-2007, 04:12 PM
your switches might be mislabled and you have the switch for ecu power off. that needs to be ON ALL the time

JDM Sam
02-13-2007, 04:13 PM
detonation sounds like rocks in a can or rice krispies. snap, crackle, pop.

you need a wideband.

jmv
02-13-2007, 04:14 PM
Well, i know for sure which one the boost controller is.

I read some about the switch mix-up problem, and people said that if you flipped the one without the light and one of the lights came on, then they were mislabeled, but i don't have that problem.

What would you reccomend doing?? Should i try running it with the ECU reset switch (or what i presume to be the ecu reset... it has no light) in the 'off' position rather than the 'on'??


and, the sound you described may be what i'm hearing. Is it very loud??

JDM Sam
02-13-2007, 04:15 PM
have to trace the wires and test with a multimeter.

jmv
02-13-2007, 04:16 PM
can you give me more info on what specifically to do with that??

jmv
02-13-2007, 05:21 PM
well, if anyone has any suggestions as to how to figure out if my unichip is working properly, what the sound might be, or how to fix it, that'd be greatly appreciated.... i'm going into coniptions right now worrying that i might've fucked up my car and i have pretty much no money to fix it (i guess its my own damn fault, but everyone seemed to rave about the unichip.....).

JDM Sam
02-13-2007, 07:00 PM
can you give me more info on what specifically to do with that??
Honestly, if you don't know what I mean by that you should not do it yourself b/c it might damage a circuit if you do it wrong.

A drive to Dallas and I can resolve the issue for you, w/o having to diagnose it over the internet.

jmv
02-13-2007, 08:08 PM
well i can use a multimeter, i just wasn't sure what you were saying i should check. Continuity across the switches for which position is on and off?? Or check some other wires to verify which switch is which??

I'm thinking i may try and leave all the stuff in, but just plug the ecu back in the way it belongs and drive to dallas, i dunno we'll see.

JDM Sam
02-13-2007, 09:12 PM
Test the EBC wires if they are getting power when you flip the EBC switch on.
The Map A/Map B switch goes to a wire off the Unichip module the big computer, not the D module. Jump those and see which switch controls want and that leaves the last switch being the ECU reset.

The faster and easier way would be to take it up here.

jmv
02-13-2007, 11:18 PM
yeah i think i'm probably going to take it up there soon. Do you do weekends??

I'll still probably bring it up regardless to get the boost issue fixed, BUT.... i think i may be totally retarded. The metal/rock sound i think may have just been caused by the place i stuck the unichip modules.... inside the center console on some metal bracket. I think it might've just been rattling some. I knew it was a new sound and i just automatically jumped to the 'omgorz my engine is fuxored' conclusion..... I'll check it out for sure tomorrow when its light out