How To: Lowering Spring Install!

[jeg0024]

I spent a long time installing my set of goldline springs that I thought it would save others time by doing a full and in-depth write up on how to install lowering springs on a 3rd gen Protégé, I have a DX so I have rear drums, but the same can be applied to rear calipers. I didn’t make a note of what size sockets you need for each application but you will need a full set of metric sockets, a ratchet, adjustable wrench, breaker bar, coil strut spring compressors, pb blaster (WD40), jack, and two jack stands at the very least. A garage is also helpful.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring01.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring02.jpg

Before anything happens you will need to remove the front strut bar and brackets if you have one. Remove the two nuts on each end of the strut bar and remove the bar. Remove the 3 outer nuts holding down the brackets, remove the bracket and replace nuts by hand, they don’t need to be tight, they just need to be on the threads to hold the strut in place until its time to drop them out. With the breaker bar break loose the center nut on the top of the strut, only about half a turn at the most…you will be glad you did later.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring03.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring04.jpg

I only have 2 jack stands so I am doing the fronts first then the rears. Use breaker bar to break free the lug nuts on both front tires. Place the jack behind the front left tire at the jack point, jack up until the jack stand fits under and place behind the jack as close to possible to the jack point. Slowly lower the car onto the jack stand and repeat on the right front.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring05.jpg

With the tires up in the air you can now remove the lugs and wheels. Set aside and make note of which side they came off of, extra important with directional tires. Once the wheels are removed it will look like this.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring06.jpg

Remove the clip holding the break line to the strut and remove the line from the strut.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring07.jpg

Spray the top end link nut with pb blaster or WD40 to help remove rust and hopefully loosen up the nut, let soak for at least 30 mins. Remove the top end link nut connected to the front side of the strut. Pull end link back and move up out of the way from the strut. Remove the two blots holding the hub to the outside of the strut. If need be lightly tap the bolts with a screwdriver and hammer to help remove them once the nut and washer is removed. At this point the only thing holding the strut up is the top 4 nuts you left where the strut bar bracket was. While holding onto the strut reach up and remove the 4 nuts, the strut assembly will fall out and be able to be removed from the wheel well.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring08.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring09.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring10.jpg

With the strut assembly fully removed from the wheel well take it to a workbench (or in my case a stack of tires lol) so it will be easier to work with. Attach the spring compressors to opposite sides of the springs and follow the specific compressors instructions on how to compress the spring. Once the tension is off of the top of the strut you are ready to remove the nut at the very top of the strut. Remove the top plate and the spring. Remove the spring compressors in the opposite manner in which they were compressed.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring11.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring12.jpg

Remove the strut accordion piece to get to the bump stop, remove the bump stop and cut off one notch on the large end.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring13.jpg

Compress the new front springs just enough to get clearance to replace the strut top. Replace the cut bump stop and accordion piece onto the strut. Position the new spring onto the strut. The side with the larger gap in the end should be at the bottom. Place strut cap back in place and replace the top strut nut. Uncompress the new spring and your ready to reinstall the strut!

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring14.jpg

Turn the top plate so the white dot on the strut cap is facing the outside rear top strut mount hole, for those with the strut bar it should be facing the one hole that the bracket doesn’t cover. Slide strut assembly back up into place and replace the four strut tower nuts. Replace the break line and clip, the two blots for the hub and the one for the end link.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring15.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring16.jpg

Repeat process on the opposite side, once you are to this point on both fronts you can reinstall the strut bar brackets and the strut bar, making sure all nuts are tight, including the center strut nut. Reinstall both front wheels and tighten the lugs by hand. Remove jack stands one at a time in reverse order in which you put them in. Use the breaker bar and completely tighten the lugs on both wheels.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring17.jpg

Front are done! But we are only half way done with this project, this may be a good time to go pick up lunch or take the rest of the day off and finish tomorrow. Ok…time for the rears. You are going to have to get inside the car and fold foreword the back seats. There will be a few clips holding down the plastic panel above the rear speakers, pop them out as well as remove the third tail light from behind the window and disconnect it. Pull up with your hand in the hole you just found when taking the tail light off and give it a few pulls from the front, it should come right up. The two side seat belts can be slid out the sides of the panel, the center one may be left where it is. I took the panel and placed it in front of the seats so it was out of the way.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring19.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring20.jpg

You will need to remove the seatbelt assembly to access the top of the rear strut fully, just remove the one bolt and it will be loose. Be sure to pull out about 5 feet of the belt and place clothe hanger clips or the such on the belt to stop if from retracting. Set detached belts aside.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring21.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring22.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring23.jpg

Remove rubber cover in above pic and set aside so you will have access to the top strut nut. Break loose the center nut just as you did in the front, it makes it a lot easier to remove later, trust me! Loosen the three strut nuts as well just as you had on the front. Now its time to jack up the rear of the car, break loose the lugs and follow the same procedure as the fronts for placing the jack stands, placement pic below. (any extra safety that can prevent the car from falling off the jack stands wont hurt one bit)

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring24.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring29.jpg

Remove the wheel and if you have a DX like me this is what you should see. (obviously someone went crazy with the WD40 lol)

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring25.jpg

Soak the end link nuts as you did on the fronts. I didn’t have any problems with them on the front, but on the rear they couldn’t have possibly given me any more problems than they did. Try and do your best not to strip the nuts like I did.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring28.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring31.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring32.jpg

Remove the remaining hub bolts as on the fronts. The brake line and clip also need to be removed but they are on the inside of the strut this time.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring26.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring27.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring30.jpg

Once you have everything below removed remove the three bolts inside the car at the top of the strut to drop it loose. Once removed you should have this…

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring33.jpg

The rear is a bit different than the fronts, a few extra things and a different looking bump stop. Compress the spring just as you did with the fronts, the rears don’t have to be compressed as much to be taken off though. Once the springs appears to be loose start to remove the top nut…now aren’t you glad you broke it loose before? If the center shaft of the strut starts to rotate with the nut grab some pliers and get a grip on the medal plate right under the nut. It should stop it from spinning, allowing the nut to be removed, if that doesn’t help just grab the strut shaft and remove the nut. Pull off the strut cap and spring. Uncompress the spring.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring34.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring35.jpg

Damn the rears were dirty! Now the interesting part, the new springs may not need to be compressed to be able to replace the cap, mine did not need compressed. Put the strut assembly back together with the new spring. Make sure you line up the top threads correct because they don’t spin with the top strut bolt all the way tight so leave it loose a bit. For the right side the center of the 3 threads should be positioned at 1 o’clock to the outside of the car, it will be 11 o’clock for the left side. Replace the strut assembly into the wheel well and place the top strut nuts in place to help hold it up. Replace brake line and clip, end link nut, and the two blots holding the hub. Lift up on the strut and tighten the top three nuts inside the car at the top of the strut, then tighten the center strut nut as well. You may need someone to help hold the center strut rod so it doesn’t rotate as you try to tighten the nut fully.

Repeat process for rears on the other side.

Once everything is nice and tight replace the wheels and remove the car from the jack stands in the same manner as the fronts. Don’t forget to fully tighten the lugs once the car is on the ground again. Once this is done its time to put the interior back together, its rather simple as long as you make note of how you removed everything. Now drive straight to a tire shop and get an alignment, no test drive or any of that, your test drive will be to the tire shop! Now I guess I owe you pics of my lowered ride? Well it was almost past dusk when I was finished but here are a few teaser pics until I get her washed and aligned in the morning.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring36.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring37.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w189/jeg0024/Spring%20Installation%20Pics/spring38.jpg

I will have daytime pics posted up tomorrow, hope this helps anyone wanting to do this project them selves. If anyone has any questions about the install or if you think I missed anything let me know. Enjoy!

[jeg0024]

I would like to ask everyone to keep this thread strictly just questions and answers about the install. I will make a post tomorrow with before and after pics and everyone can bs and ask any other questions over there. Thanks!



Here is the link! http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123660216

[jomoyo069]

nice how to

[AKYellow]

Great Job on the How To!! Subbin for a later install!!

[DiS]

Absolutely Spectacular write up man! Definetly a keeper! Thanks for taking time and writing it up! (thumb)

[jeg0024]

Absolutely Spectacular write up man! Definetly a keeper! Thanks for taking time and writing it up! (thumb)

Thanks:) Anything to help out my fellow protege owners!

[Tasty]

Thanks jeg! Great contribution, and excellent write up...WITH PICS (the most important part).

[jeg0024]

Thanks jeg! Great contribution, and excellent write up...WITH PICS (the most important part).

Thanks man. The how to that I read before doing the install had only 5 steps!!! I dont know what they were thinking but theres deffinately more to it than that.


Oh, and I must add this bit of info... the springs have settled a bit and the ride had stiffened up a little. I checked the springs while I had the car up on jacks today and everything was still in its place:)

[Bala]

Good job man! I'd like to add a bit of information; no need to worry about the rear seatbelts retracting, let them do their thing. When it's time to bolt it back in above the rear strut, hold the assembly parallel to the ground (as it was bolted in car) and the belt pulls out no problem.

[jeg0024]

Good job man! I'd like to add a bit of information; no need to worry about the rear seatbelts retracting, let them do their thing. When it's time to bolt it back in above the rear strut, hold the assembly parallel to the ground (as it was bolted in car) and the belt pulls out no problem.

Thanks. And yeah I did find out that they would only pull out at an exact angle. I did have one roll all the way up on me and I guess theres more belt than can fit on the spool so its easier to keep some hanging out like I did, but if they do roll up dont spend any time messing with them untill the job is done. Thanks for the additional info man:)

[sam1]

nice write-up. When i did my spring install, I had a hell of a time with the endlinks. On one of them, I could not break the bolt attaching the endlink to the strut loose and ended up stripping the crap out of it, so I had to leave the endlink attached to the strut and unbolt it from the swaybar.

[jeg0024]

nice write-up. When i did my spring install, I had a hell of a time with the endlinks. On one of them, I could not break the bolt attaching the endlink to the strut loose and ended up stripping the crap out of it, so I had to leave the endlink attached to the strut and unbolt it from the swaybar.

Yeah, same happened with me, but on the other side I got the nut knocked half way loose so I had to sit there and finish it off.

[steve_protege]

Did you change out the struts as well? How easy would it be to do that after swapping out the springs?

[jeg0024]

Did you change out the struts as well? How easy would it be to do that after swapping out the springs?

I did not change the struts, probably should have though. If you want to change them after doing the job like im gonna have to do you have to do everything over again, it would have been a lot easier to just swap out the struts in the middle of the whole process.

[SprNater]

awsome writeup really helped me out with my install. Had alittle trouble with one endlink and just pushed and twisted real hard to get it to lay down to take off the spring. But your how to helped me breeze thru the install in no time. Thanks

[jeg0024]

awsome writeup really helped me out with my install. Had alittle trouble with one endlink and just pushed and twisted real hard to get it to lay down to take off the spring. But your how to helped me breeze thru the install in no time. Thanks

Glad I could help:) Yeah those endlinks are a mess lol, next time I touch them there gonna have to get new nuts lol.

[steve_protege]

I did not change the struts, probably should have though. If you want to change them after doing the job like im gonna have to do you have to do everything over again, it would have been a lot easier to just swap out the struts in the middle of the whole process.

Thats what I figured. So after you take off the wheels and hoses, then get the spring out, thats when the struts should be taken out, right? From the point the springs come out, what steps would be next to get the struts out?

[jeg0024]

Well the springs go over the struts. You remove the spring and strut as one, then you remove the springs off of the strut once you get it out and away from the car. In the 10th pic you can see the spring and strut once its off the car. At this point neither are really going back on the car if you are using new struts and springs. The 11th pic is the strut without the cap, spring, or bump stop and slieve.

[occytron]

Awesome how-to! I am going to tackle this over the coming weekend. Luckily a friend of mine has an impact gun, so hopefully it will go quickly. I am replacing the struts as well, so it will be good to get it all done at one time. One question, I have read other places that you should wait a week or so to let the springs fully settle before getting an alignment, anybody know if this is a good idea or not?

[jeg0024]

Awesome how-to! I am going to tackle this over the coming weekend. Luckily a friend of mine has an impact gun, so hopefully it will go quickly. I am replacing the struts as well, so it will be good to get it all done at one time. One question, I have read other places that you should wait a week or so to let the springs fully settle before getting an alignment, anybody know if this is a good idea or not?

If you have the time to do that and dont have to drive your car too much for a week then yes. I got mine alligned right after and they have settled some, but nothing that would throw an alignment off by much.

[99 Pro]

What does cutting the bump stop do? My friend did mine spring install for me, and I can't remember if we ever did anything with the bump stops.

[Bala]

What does cutting the bump stop do? My friend did mine spring install for me, and I can't remember if we ever did anything with the bump stops.

I'm not sure of the stock sedan bumpstops - but here are the bumpstops for the P5 and the MSP. Originally, I did not cut the bumpstops on my HP / Espelir install on my P5 and quickly determined I was literally just about riding around on the bumpstops (harsh ride / almost no suspension travel). I swapped the P5 front bumpstops with stock MSP bumpstops and put the stock front P5 bumpstops in the rear. Turns out this is a little too extreme for the rear and the tires will tuck with heavy loads over big bumps and slightly rub (deep, deep in the fender well). I'm still experimenting, but I think adding about 3/8" of material should give me the most rear travel with no bottoming out in the rear - I'm going to cut down the rear P5 bumpstops or even may add a urethane spacer from energy suspension.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Bala%20de%20Plata/Bump%20Stops%2001.jpg

[jeg0024]

The ones above listed as P5 bumpstops were the same as the ones on my car. I cut the front, I think I have a pic, so it looked like the MSP bumpstop, just cut off the top notch. And if I remeber correctly I didnt touch the rear stop.

Cutting the stops just allows for more travel in the strut. You dont wanna be sitting on just the stops but you still need to make sure you dont fully compress your struts either. Notice how the MSP stop is already shorter than the P5 one? Well its because the MSP comes a bit lower stock than the P5. Cut the stops acording to how far your gonna drop the car. Having the MSP heigth stops is good for a drop like mine, I probably should have cut the rear stop some but the rear strut doenst compress as much as the front and it seems to be getting enough travel in the rear.

[99 Pro]

So since I am on Teins, then the bump stops should have been cut down like 1.5" or so? Do the bump stops affect the ride height at all? Just curious cause my Teins seem to sit a bit higher than I think is normal.

can someone post a pic of the bump stop installed?

[Bala]

So since I am on Teins, then the bump stops should have been cut down like 1.5" or so? Do the bump stops affect the ride height at all? Just curious cause my Teins seem to sit a bit higher than I think is normal.

can someone post a pic of the bump stop installed?

You may bve riding on the stops ... Here: http://protege5.ugly.net/#susp
Sections 02-13 snd 02-14 (bound stoppers). The stops have the final say as to how far the suspension compresses.

[red99pro]

ive never seen/touched/heard my bumpstops

[jonlong]

subbing for future reference

Can I just trim down my stock P5 bumpstops when I upgrade to an eibach/tokico combo?

[Rome04]

Will I need to worry about torquing down all of the bolts to a certain amount of ft/lbs?

[jeg0024]

Im sure you wont have to worry about torquing the bolts, I didnt, but still im sure there are specs somewhere that specify what everything should be at. Ill see what I can come up with...

[daonly1around]

great write up jeg. how much and where did u get the smaller bumpstops?
also, i am in NO way saying anything about your write up or how you did it, i could never take them time to make an how to as good as this, but i just wanted to share how i changed mine... could be completely wrong but... we placed the car on jack stands, removed wheels, then placed a jack under the strut where it bolts to the spindle, and removed the top center nut, and lowered the jack to decompress the spring, didn't have to remove it as an assembly. i think we disconnected the sway bar links, but that was about it.
but like i said, great write up and good job, and sweet looking stance.

[red99pro]

when you do it that way, how did you, or did you have to compress the spring to put it back on. ive put on springs that were short enough to compress with your hand and tighten the top center bolt up.

[jeg0024]

Thanks, and yes, it is possible to take the springs off without removing the strut, but why not just remove 2 more bolts per strut and be able to work standing up and away from the car instead of crapmed up under the wheel well. Also I think its kinda a tight fit to do it that way on the front, I cant reacall though, but on either the front or the back there wasnt much room to lean the strut over to take the spring off. Anyting that gets the job done works though. And thanks for the comments on the write-up :)

[DarKrID3r]

so.. i own a 01 sedan, im going to install prokit+tokico Hp this week...

should i cut the bump stops???

[jeg0024]

Yep, Just do the same I did and everything should work out just fine. I didnt need to cut the rears and just cut the top notch off of the fronts.

[DarKrID3r]

Yep, Just do the same I did and everything should work out just fine. I didnt need to cut the rears and just cut the top notch off of the fronts.

why didnt you cut the rear? is it because the rear sedan bumps are shorter, just like the MSP bumps???

[jeg0024]

Well I didnt cut the rears because they kinda funny shape and theres really no notches to cut off, if you want you can go with the MSP rear stops but I know im not riding on my rear stops because I drove with a few people in the back and it still rode right. The rear strut just doesnt compess as much as the front and thats why you can get away with having a larger stop.

[erikmanx]

Great write up, just helped me out last night, I had to replace my rear strut mounts

[jeg0024]

Great write up, just helped me out last night, I had to replace my rear strut mounts

Thanks! Glad I could help:)

[hotrippr]

I am replacing with EibachPros and Tokico HP, will I have to take this part off and reinstall on new struts?:
http://img.techpowerup.org/070524/Untitled772.jpg

[DiS]

I am replacing with EibachPros and Tokico HP, will I have to take this part off and reinstall on new struts?:


no, you don't have to....that piece isn't removable unless you cut it off with a torch. New struts will have that (thumb)

[hotrippr]

Thank you, I was just worried because the pics I have seen on Retailer's sites just show the strut.

So these are reused:
1.Hardware
2.Bump stops (shortened or replaced w/MSP)
3.Top cover for struts
4.Accordion dust covers
5.Top plates
6.Brakeline clips
7.Rubber Spring seats (upper and lower)
8.Bearing
9.Mounting rubber

I am on the way to the dealer to get MSP bumpstops for the front and going to put the P5 stops on the rear. If they arent too expensive I will pick up some spare nuts for the endlinks just in case. I kinda stripped one while breaking it loose.

I highly recommend trying to get ALL of the endlinks loose FIRST, it is much better finding out that you will have to buy new nuts or endlinks sooner than later when you got all wheels off and a strut or 2 replaced. Endlinks are the hardest part of the job it seems.

[jeg0024]

Thank you, I was just worried because the pics I have seen on Retailer's sites just show the strut.

So these are reused:
1.Hardware
2.Bump stops (shortened or replaced w/MSP)
3.Top cover for struts
4.Accordion dust covers
5.Top plates
6.Brakeline clips? Or are they welded on new struts too?

I am on the way to the dealer to get MSP bumpstops for the front and going to put the P5 stops on the rear. If they arent too expensive I will pick up some spare nuts for the endlinks just in case. I kinda stripped one while breaking it loose.

I highly recommend trying to get ALL of the endlinks loose FIRST, it is much better finding out that you will have to buy new nuts or endlinks sooner than later when you got all wheels off and a strut or 2 replaced. Endlinks are the hardest part of the job it seems.

Yep, your list is correct. Im assuming the old brake line clips will work on the new stuts. Getting a few extra endlink nuts would be a good ideal too, I kinda wished I did.

[hotrippr]

Jeg
How thick are the back stops? Cause I was thinking about just sawing them off to the same size of the front. Then I would cut the front bumps down after that. I cant find a dealer with the MSP or Front MP5 bumps in stock, and if the sruts arrive tomorrow then I would install this weekend, dont have time to special order the bumpstops. Have heard of a few guys wishing they had shorter rear bumpstops.

Thanks for the great writeup BTW.

[jeg0024]

Jeg
How thick are the back stops? Cause I was thinking about just sawing them off to the same size of the front. Then I would cut the front bumps down after that. I cant find a dealer with the MSP or Front MP5 bumps in stock, and if the sruts arrive tomorrow then I would install this weekend, dont have time to special order the bumpstops. Have heard of a few guys wishing they had shorter rear bumpstops.

Thanks for the great writeup BTW.

Thanks man:)


Theres a pic on my first post somewhere near the end with the rear bump stop still on the strut. Its kind of an odd shape to be cutting smaller, you have a P5 right? Depending on how low you want the back to sit you might just wanna leave the rear bump stops alone. Im not quite as sure with the P5 but with the sedan the top of the struts in the rear are much further away from the tire than in the fronts and you can get away with a larger bump stop due to the fact that the strut doesn't compress as much as they do in the front.


3k post FTW:)

[hotrippr]

Yeah I will have to decide when I get under her, I think the rear of the P5 is heavier than your's. I was thinking of cutting them like so or even more in the middle of the second smaller piece. Wouldn't the car sit the same no matter how it is cut? It only contacts the stops when fully compressed right? Sorry, if I am complicating more than I should, this is my first time doing this, I just want to do it right the first time.
Congrats on 3K! I got 20!(enguard)
http://img.techpowerup.org/070524/Bump Stops 01.jpg

[jeg0024]

Yeah I will have to decide when I get under her, I think the rear of the P5 is heavier than your's. I was thinking of cutting them like so or even more in the middle of the second smaller piece. Wouldn't the car sit the same no matter how it is cut? It only contacts the stops when fully compressed right? Sorry, if I am complicating more than I should, this is my first time doing this, I just want to do it right the first time.
Congrats on 3K! I got 20!(enguard)
http://img.techpowerup.org/070524/Bump Stops 01.jpg

lol, thanks:)

It depends on how much you lower it as to weather or not your struts will ride on the bump stops. Just to be safe I would cut off about half of the smaller notch on the rear stops, and if you can kinda cut them to shape a little better so its not just cut straight across. It probably dont matter tho, I just wouldnt cut too much off.

[hotrippr]

Got my struts today!(rockon) After looking at the strut, Jeg's write up, and the uglyManual.pdf This seems pretty easy. I revised the list for idiots like me.

Things that will be reused for New struts:

1.Car(eek2)
2.Bump stops (shortened or replaced w/MSP)
3.Mounting rubbers
4.Accordion dust covers
5.Top spring seats
6.Brakeline clips
7.Rubber Spring seats (upper and lower)
8.Bearing

I would think about getting new:

1.Spare end link nuts ($2.50 each at stealership).
2.Mounting rubber
3.Spring seat rubbers (depends on how much they are or how worn)
4.End links if you have to break or cut them.

[jeg0024]

Got my struts today!(rockon) After looking at the strut, Jeg's write up, and the uglyManual.pdf This seems pretty easy. I revised the list for idiots like me.

Things that will be reused for New struts:

1.Car(eek2)
2.Bump stops (shortened or replaced w/MSP)
3.Mounting rubbers
4.Accordion dust covers
5.Top spring seats
6.Brakeline clips
7.Rubber Spring seats (upper and lower)
8.Bearing

I would think about getting new:

1.Spare end link nuts ($2.50 each at stealership).
2.Mounting rubber
3.Spring seat rubbers (depends on how much they are or how worn)
4.End links if you have to break or cut them.

Sounds good to me:) Hopefully you would re-use the car lol. $2.50 each for end link nuts? Damn. If your rubbers are used and not looking well it wouldn't hurt to get new ones, but it will take longer for the new springs to settle and you may need to wait a bit longer afterwards before getting an alignment.

[hotrippr]

Haha, my hands are swollen...need air tools.
Here are the problems I ran into:
1.Endlinks were a bitch, I had to dremmel a nut off of one of em.
2.Mazda put the bolt end of the strut bolt facing the caliper on the pass side, so in order to get the bolt off I had to loosen and slide the caliper.
3.The strut washer that keeps the rod from spinning kept stripping on the new rear struts, so I had to use a towel and vice grips to hold the rod until the washer got compressed to the bottom of the threading where it is thicker and finally could lock.
4. I had to reline up the top strut bolts correctly 2 times on the rears.
5.Had to reseat the springs on the top 2 times, (stupidity).
6.Had to recompress the springs twice as many times as I should have...take your time and make sure the springs are seated correctly, and that the rears are lined up with the top.

This is my first time doing anything like this, it was fairly easy except some of the problems I ran into with the endlinks. My Dad's neighbor showed up towards the end of the job with a 2' breaker bar which fit perfectly in the wheelwell to break loose the endlinks...wished I had that in the first place, it probably would have taken half the time!

Well after all that yesterday, it was worth it, now I have prokit/Tokico Hps and a rear strut tower bar. And driving home was fun whipping around corners like never before, now for some wheels.

Oh and I did cut the rear stops about a 1/2'' off the smaller notch. I cut the bigger notch off the front but the bigger notch holds the boot up, next time cut off the smaller end? Now the boot is saggy on the fronts. I may just replace it with MSP stops.

[jeg0024]

Pics?:)

[hotrippr]

Pics?:)
Sure, will post em this weekend. Although my P5 is nothing pretty, but it will give those an idea of how much drop with proKit/Hps.

[Action Jackson]

Doh!

Too late to contribute.

I used the stock MSP bumpstops on the rear struts, and cut off 1 level from the MSP bumpstop for my fronts.

[hotrippr]

Its never too late.

I am happy with the 1/2 inch cut off the smaller notch of rear stock bumpstops and the one notch from the front. I had the car full with people today, hit some dips and FLEW around the traffic circle with no rubbuing or slamming the susp. The stops length are perfect for me.
The only thing I dont like is that I cut off the top notches on the front stops which hold the dust boot up, I would cut the bottom notch or replace with MSP stops, if I were any of you that are going to be lowering.

[hotrippr]

Well I took a bunch of pics but it was too dark outside, here is one that came out ok, I will take some more and update it tomorrow.

If you look at the center of pic1 the camera is angled up, there is slighly less space between the wheel and fender than it shows. But you can see the blue beauty.

[jeg0024]

Looks awesome man! Im glad everything worked out well, those springs will settle a bit, expecially if you used new rubbers, but probably wont be too noticable. How do you like the way it rides?

[hotrippr]

Looks awesome man! Im glad everything worked out well, those springs will settle a bit, expecially if you used new rubbers, but probably wont be too noticable. How do you like the way it rides?
Well thanks for your write up(drinks) .
I didnt get new rubbers, I didnt want to wait for the special order, probably should have. About a month ago I got an alignment, now with this height and struts the car corners on rails, and is actually smoother than stock IMO. The alignment I got came with a 5year realignment policy...I am wondering if they will notice that my suspension has been changed. I'd hate to pay for another alignment when I just got it a month ago.(argh)

[jeg0024]

Well thanks for your write up(drinks) .
I didnt get new rubbers, I didnt want to wait for the special order, probably should have. About a month ago I got an alignment, now with this height and struts the car corners on rails, and is actually smoother than stock IMO. The alignment I got came with a 5year realignment policy...I am wondering if they will notice that my suspension has been changed. I'd hate to pay for another alignment when I just got it a month ago.(argh)

I wouldnt even tell them about it, just go in and tell them you think you need an alignment, they will more than likly find out though with the amount of negitive toe you will have if they are smart enough lol.

[hotrippr]

I hope they are stupid, or nice enough to offer a discount since I am redoing it.
Updated pics, btw.

[jeg0024]

Car looks nice man, not too low in the rear and just right up front.

[hotrippr]

Thanks. Everything is good except for the dent in my hood which some a-hole put in it the third day I had it.
Now so much more to do, waiting for my SLS mounts he said this week but I still yet to be charged, my Progress bar should be here tomorrow, yellow/amber fogs, I want to paint the calipers and hubs, I was thinking Tokico-blue for the calipers? If it werent for emissions every other year...I would do more.

[jeg0024]

Go silver on the calipers, I like mine:)

[hotrippr]

Go silver on the calipers, I like mine:)
Yeah I dont know, I really like black rims that I've seen on the P5. Not sure what color for the calipers with black rims?
I am looking at your site right now, dude your car has come along way! Looks so much better now than it did from the factory. Good job.

[jeg0024]

Yeah I dont know, I really like black rims that I've seen on the P5. Not sure what color for the calipers with black rims?
I am looking at your site right now, dude your car has come along way! Looks so much better now than it did from the factory. Good job.

Thanks bro! Yeah it sucks that the sedan had to come with such a shitty front bumper:( I see other sedans out on the road and can hardly believe myself that its the same car lol. My rims are part black and they look fine with the silver, I think the blue will stand out too much. Some people are looking to stand out, im just looking to look good but "OMG did u see that car?!" kinda thing lol. The silver just looks like really clean and well kept calipers, ive had people tell me they didnt even notice that they were painted. Its all what you want tho man.

[Sveivo]

Hey man, I have a couple questions here that you probably answered a million times before. Hehe.

1. So you did this with NO air tools?

2. Could you please emphasize once again the best way to take the top nut off the strut assembly, and how to avoid the spinning shaft? Thanks a lot.(thumb)

[jeg0024]

Hey man, I have a couple questions here that you probably answered a million times before. Hehe.

1. So you did this with NO air tools?

2. Could you please emphasize once again the best way to take the top nut off the strut assembly, and how to avoid the spinning shaft? Thanks a lot.(thumb)

The first time I removed the end link nuts I did use air tools, but I just did a sway bar install and used some PB blaster and they came right off. When your taking it apart the shaft wont spin because of the compression of the spring but when putting it back on you may need to hold onto it untill it gets the springs compressed a little bit. But remeber to break that bolt loose while the strut is still in the car because if you wait untill you have it removed it will be next to impossible to break it loose. If you need anything else just ask:)

[Sveivo]

The first time I removed the end link nuts I did use air tools, but I just did a sway bar install and used some PB blaster and they came right off. When your taking it apart the shaft wont spin because of the compression of the spring but when putting it back on you may need to hold onto it untill it gets the springs compressed a little bit. But remeber to break that bolt loose while the strut is still in the car because if you wait untill you have it removed it will be next to impossible to break it loose. If you need anything else just ask:)

Cool. Thank you for the response.

I want to test waters tomorrow. I want to jack up the car and see just how bad my bolts are and if I'm able to get any of them loose. I have PB blaster ready :)

This thread was good encouragement for me to get this job started ;)

Another question, how tight did you torque the bolts? Did you torque to a specific poundage or just until they were "tight enough"?

[red99pro]

haha@poundage

[Sveivo]

How did you get the rounded nut off?

[red99pro]

me? i compressed the spring and had air tool.

Didnt someone say something about jacking the wheel up with a floor jack, and then break it aloose so that way u wont have to compress it?

[Sveivo]

me? i compressed the spring and had air tool.

Didnt someone say something about jacking the wheel up with a floor jack, and then break it aloose so that way u wont have to compress it?

I meant Jeg, sorry. He had a rounded nut on the endlink.

[jeg0024]

I meant Jeg, sorry. He had a rounded nut on the endlink.

Well you can remove either nut on the endlink as long as you arent replacing the struts, if you are replacing the struts and you round off the one nut you have to remove you can try an allen wrench in the threads and a vice grip or something on the nut, if that doesn't work most people just cut off the endlink threads and just replace the endlinks. Just give it a good overnight soaking of the Pb blaster and you shouldn't have to worry about anything, and a 6 point deep socket would help out in preventing rounding out the nut. Only thing is you may break loose the nut and the threads at the same time, this is ok but then you are going to have to move on to the allen wrench and hand wrench to get it off. Just make sure you do the endlink nuts before you do any other nuts in the wheel well part of the project and it will be so much easier. Let me know how everything looks and how things go, im glad I could help out:)

[Sveivo]

Well you can remove either nut on the endlink as long as you arent replacing the struts, if you are replacing the struts and you round off the one nut you have to remove you can try an allen wrench in the threads and a vice grip or something on the nut, if that doesn't work most people just cut off the endlink threads and just replace the endlinks. Just give it a good overnight soaking of the Pb blaster and you shouldn't have to worry about anything, and a 6 point deep socket would help out in preventing rounding out the nut. Only thing is you may break loose the nut and the threads at the same time, this is ok but then you are going to have to move on to the allen wrench and hand wrench to get it off. Just make sure you do the endlink nuts before you do any other nuts in the wheel well part of the project and it will be so much easier. Let me know how everything looks and how things go, im glad I could help out:)

Hey man. Thanks for the response. I went ahead and swapped the springs without disconnecting the endlinks--that's a skill hehe.

I think I'll get the endlinks removed "professionally," because I'm so sick of dealing with it. I've worked for 2 days straight. (yupnope) All to find out that my struts are blown, so the drop looks like ass anyways. But mostly it's okay.

Oh well, paying to play FTW!(encourage

[jeg0024]

I think im in need of new struts too:(

[Sveivo]

I think im in need of new struts too:(

Do it :D. I got the HP's, and at first the were a bit stiff for my springs, but they wore in and feel pretty good.

To think, 2 months ago about this time was the time of agony for me (suspension-wise).

[jeg0024]

Yeah, im thinking about getting some springs with a 1.3 inch drop instead of these with the 1.5 inch and also getting some HP's. But thats going to be a while because im broke:( And im probably moving to Colorado without my car for 6 months as well this winter.

[Lewis7789]

Great How To, guys. And all the extra comments really helped too.

But just to be sure (I've got my Tein springs coming in on monday), I'm NOT removing my factory struts, so the dreaded endlink blots shouldn't need to be removed right?

[jeg0024]

I didn't replace my struts either. I've heard you can do it without removing the endlink but I found it so much easier to work with the strut removed from the car if possible.

[Sveivo]

Great How To, guys. And all the extra comments really helped too.

But just to be sure (I've got my Tein springs coming in on monday), I'm NOT removing my factory struts, so the dreaded endlink blots shouldn't need to be removed right?

Correct, you don't have to remove endlinks to just swap springs out. There is a way! You just have to get creative, and it's a bit of a pain too, but can be done.

[Sveivo]

I didn't replace my struts either. I've heard you can do it without removing the endlink but I found it so much easier to work with the strut removed from the car if possible.

This is correct also :D It's much easier if you can get the struts off the car completely to switch to new springs.

[jeg0024]

Correct, you don't have to remove endlinks to just swap springs out. There is a way! You just have to get creative, and it's a bit of a pain too, but can be done.

I think you have to compress the spring/strut to be able to fit it out and facing you in the wheel well to be able to remove the strut. Do it how you may, but I just think its easier to fully remove the strut. Endlinks will be SOOO much easier the next time around when it comes time to do a sway bar upgrade like I did, took 5 mins endlinks included:)

[Sveivo]

I think you have to compress the spring/strut to be able to fit it out and facing you in the wheel well to be able to remove the strut. Do it how you may, but I just think its easier to fully remove the strut. Endlinks will be SOOO much easier the next time around when it comes time to do a sway bar upgrade like I did, took 5 mins endlinks included:)

What I did is rotated the strut/spring assembly out of the wheel well and then compressed the spring, etc.

I only did it because I did not have the means to take the endlinks off, so I only recommend it in this case.

In other words, it's a ghetto way to do it, but it works, if it must be done.

[Lewis7789]

What I did is rotated the strut/spring assembly out of the wheel well and then compressed the spring, etc.

I only did it because I did not have the means to take the endlinks off, so I only recommend it in this case.

In other words, it's a ghetto way to do it, but it works, if it must be done.

That's actually what I was hoping to hear. I'll try to remove the endlink nuts for the easier install but if all else fails it's good to know I can still swap out the springs if I run into trouble.

[Sveivo]

That's actually what I was hoping to hear. I'll try to remove the endlink nuts for the easier install but if all else fails it's good to know I can still swap out the springs if I run into trouble.

Good luck man. Don't try too hard because they strip easily.

[jeg0024]

Good luck man. Don't try too hard because they strip easily.

I wish my gf did:)



lol, on topic. If you have an impact gun and some PB blaster use it, if not try to work around removing the endlinks. If you have questions you know you can ask here, im always around lol.

[Sveivo]

I wish my gf did:)



lol, on topic. If you have an impact gun and some PB blaster use it, if not try to work around removing the endlinks. If you have questions you know you can ask here, im always around lol.

bwahaha, I just realized how funny it sounds.

[Keno1542]

subs

[GBean]

so how much does this lowering spring setup affect your camber? Is it noticable?
Did it affect handling or tire wear?

[jeg0024]

so how much does this lowering spring setup affect your camber? Is it noticable?
Did it affect handling or tire wear?

It wasn't visibly noticable but im sure you would get some funny tire wear, our cars already wear the insides faster on their own anyways, this could just make it worse.

[Lewis7789]

There's always been a big debate about tire wear when lowering cars, that it's not actually the camber but the toe. I've lowered cars 2-3 inches and imediately got an alignment afterwards to adjust the toe in/out and the tires wear just fine without camber kits.

[GBean]

There's always been a big debate about tire wear when lowering cars, that it's not actually the camber but the toe. I've lowered cars 2-3 inches and imediately got an alignment afterwards to adjust the toe in/out and the tires wear just fine without camber kits.

I believe too much negative camber will wear a tire just as bad as too much +/- toe. That is why most smart 510 guys will get camber plates with their 280zx strut/brake upgrades to save their tires.
What kind of aftermarket camber stuff is there for the 3rd gen Protege?

[red99pro]

forget camber toe, and tire wear changes, just ride it(thumb)

[Lewis7789]

I believe too much negative camber will wear a tire just as bad as too much +/- toe. That is why most smart 510 guys will get camber plates with their 280zx strut/brake upgrades to save their tires.
What kind of aftermarket camber stuff is there for the 3rd gen Protege?

Yeah, camber plates are awesome. Anything that is adjustable is good stuff in my book. But if a cat is just dropping his car 1.5", I don't think it's necessary to worry too much about camber. But if someone is dropping more than that, I would get a camber kit, just to be on the safe side.

[GBean]

forget camber toe, and tire wear changes, just ride it(thumb)

And buy twice as many tires, thats a winner....(rlaugh)

[JonnyTheJet]

I need help guys! After installing my Tokico HP struts, on my P5, the rear doesn't seem right. There is a gap between the washer and the top of the plate that it is suppose to sit on. The piston of the strut rotated when I test drove it. It seems like the piston of the strut is too long or something. Did this happen to anyone else? What happened and how can I fix it?

[red99pro]

the washer is on backwards? i dont believe it matters if that rotates.

[Bala]

What happened and how can I fix it?

The center nut that comes with the Tokicos has less material beneath the threaded portion and will not allow full tightening of the assembly - reuse the OEM nut or throw a washer or two beneath the Tokico nut.

[JonnyTheJet]

Okay thanks for the suggestion. I'm gonna give it a try tomorrow morning. However, shouldn't the washer fall to the bottom and touch the plate regardless of the nut?

[Bala]

Okay thanks for the suggestion. I'm gonna give it a try tomorrow morning. However, shouldn't the washer fall to the bottom and touch the plate regardless of the nut?

It should. It can get hung up if you don't line up the corresponding flat spots on the ID of the washer with the strut.

[JonnyTheJet]

Bala - Thanks for your help! The washer got shifted when I originally put on the nut. I undid it and it was wedged up on the threads. Had to hammer it back out but now its flush with the bottom. And for good measure I used the OEM nuts. Thanks again!

[Bala]

Bala - Thanks for your help! The washer got shifted when I originally put on the nut. I undid it and it was wedged up on the threads. Had to hammer it back out but now its flush with the bottom. And for good measure I used the OEM nuts. Thanks again!

No prob bro (stash) I'm running Tokicos on both my Pro's (and had to learn the hard way).

[Not Jo3L]

Getting some goldlines hopefully by friday :)

[jeg0024]

Getting some goldlines hopefully by friday :)

Someone can buy mine when I get home...

[Lewis7789]

Bala - Thanks for your help! The washer got shifted when I originally put on the nut. I undid it and it was wedged up on the threads. Had to hammer it back out but now its flush with the bottom. And for good measure I used the OEM nuts. Thanks again!

I think that's my problem too. I put on my Teins STechs on some Tokico Blues last night and they rear sounds like the nut is loose on the strut shaft. I gotta pull everything apart and give it a gander later tonight. Here's crossing my fingers...

*edit* Yup, just slapped a washer under each strut shaft bolt and she's sitting pretty now with no rattle. I'll get an alignment tomorrow then I'll see what she can do.

[poonpower]

just ordered my tokico blues, and endlinks, got falken springs already. hopefully wont run into any trouble.
when do I tighten the center nut? when the strut is still off the car, or when the strut is put back onto the car and there is some compression on it?

[jeg0024]

Hand tighten while the compressors are still on the springs, then fully tighten when installed. Rears can be a PITA so do as much as possible before installing.

[poonpower]

is PITA short form for something, or does it literally mean pita, hahahaha

[jeg0024]

pain in the ass


sorry im lazy lol

[BadBandar]

Great write up. this is way better than the other write ups made. They werent as detailed as this one. Thanks bro, you saved me a lot of time and frustration.

[jeg0024]

Thanks:)

[Tzar177]

bumping an old thread....I know. Installed new struts and springs couple years ago with no problems. I forgot to reinstall the dust boots. So here recently, I decided to uninstall the strut to put back in the dust boots. I have all nuts as tite as they will go, but now everytime I go over bumps, the strut shaft will move up ever so slighty causing the bowl shaped washer and the regular washer(for the washer trick when using lowering springs)to become loose just for a sec and clunk against each other. Both sides are doing this. I uninstalled everything and installed it all back and it still clunks. I guess i've uninstalled everything too many times as now both bowl shaped washers on the flat side, have rounded off. I have new ones on order. Anyone have some insight here?

[Bala]

bumping an old thread....I know. Installed new struts and springs couple years ago with no problems. I forgot to reinstall the dust boots. So here recently, I decided to uninstall the strut to put back in the dust boots. I have all nuts as tite as they will go, but now everytime I go over bumps, the strut shaft will move up ever so slighty causing the bowl shaped washer and the regular washer(for the washer trick when using lowering springs)to become loose just for a sec and clunk against each other. Both sides are doing this. I uninstalled everything and installed it all back and it still clunks. I guess i've uninstalled everything too many times as now both bowl shaped washers on the flat side, have rounded off. I have new ones on order. Anyone have some insight here?

OEM nuts for the strut shaft. The aftermarket ones don't have enough "material" under the threaded portion of the nut and you have to use a washer(s) to get the entire assembly tightened up (or in your case ... not (lol2)). An OEM nut for each rear strut assembly will solve your issue.

[Tzar177]

I thought I was using oem nuts....? What do they look like? Any of these oem?

[Bala]

I thought I was using oem nuts....? What do they look like? Any of these oem?

The one on the left looks OEM - What struts are you running?

[Tzar177]

The one on the left looks OEM - What struts are you running?

I am running Illuminas

[Tzar177]

I ordered oem nuts. Reinstalled everything again and stilll it clunks

[sarrati]

I am having an issue with my rear passenger side strut. Every time I make a hard left turn, my tire scrapes the edge of the car's body. I changed the strut but it is still happening. Any insights on this? Are the pink stops inside the acordeon plastic over the strut absolutely necessary? Thanks.

[red99pro]

its probly your camber or your fender. what size wheel/tire and suspension do you have??

bought the car used? it may have been hit. You smash into anything on that side before? are your wheels/tires the same size/width/offset?

[sarrati]

My 4 wheels are 17" (exactly the same) and still have stock suspension except for the new strut. The car was working fine but I hit a hole hard with people in the rear seat and that did it, that's why I thought it was the strut. When I put in the new one I didn't replace the bump stop as it was torn apart. Is this absolutely necessary?

[Tzar177]

Did you get an alignment after the new strut install? Was there any body damage when you hit the pole? The bump stop or the dust boot was torn apart?

[sarrati]

It was the bump stop that got torn apart. Alignment was done, and the edge of the round body part that goes around the wheel was a little dented (you could tell the tire hit it).

[Tzar177]

hmm...I'm having trouble picturing how a bump stop could be torn apart

[ucMP3]

pics.