View Full Version : Stiffen your Mazda 3, Speed 3 shifter - for $4
flyrevs
01-15-2007, 10:02 PM
Stiffen your Mazda 3, Speed 3 shifter - for $4
I noticed on my Mazdaspeed 3 and there is some sloppiness in the shifter. I read a post on how to change the "sponge bob" rubber bushings with TWM solid aluminum ones. It will cost you something like $26 bucks for the solid aluminum mounts and $12 shipping (what a joke).
I took the cover off the shifter and played with the shifter to see what I could find out about the cause of the slop. The sponginess is caused by soft rubber bushings.
It appears that the whole assembly can be stiffened up easily by filling the air gap around the soft rubber bushings with epoxy.
I had an extra tube of 6 min. epoxy left over from the "Stiffen your Mazda 3, Speed 3 rear engine mount - for $4" project so I decided to give it a go.
Here are the bushings (circled in red):
http://www.natattacks.com/ms3/shift2.jpg
Time required: The whole project takes about 25 min.
What you will need: 2 part 6 Min epoxy - Lowes $4 and an applicator:
http://www.natattacks.com/ms3/shift1.jpg
I used 6 min epoxy, but you have to work too fast, so use the 20 min stuff.
Note: Don't use 6 min. epoxy for this - you will be sorry (sets too fast) - use the 20 min stuff and life will be good.
I got the applicator from an ink fill re-fill kit.
If you take the shifter assembly out of the car you wont need the applicator, but I was too lazy to take it out. Use the applicator and you can do the whole project without taking anything out of your car.
I mixed the 2/3 of the tube of epoxy and poured it into the applicator. Take the applicator and fill the air gap around each of the 4 mounts. Only fill up to the top of the washer - don't get any on the nut.
The epoxy gel flows just right and entirely fills the gaps.
Where to fill:
http://www.natattacks.com/ms3/shift3.jpg
Fill like this:
http://www.natattacks.com/ms3/shift5.jpg
Finished (all gaps filled with epoxy):
http://www.natattacks.com/ms3/shift4.jpg
Now put the cover back on the shifter and you are all done!!!
In about 3 hours it will be rock hard (let it setup in a heated area) so wait at least this long before you test it out.
I think this solution is actually better than the solid shift mounts because the solid mounts will offer no isolation and therfore will probably transmit some vibrations to the shifter. This mod makes it stiffer, however you still have rubber for isolation of vibration.
For $4 this is a great mod. You can do this on the Mazda 3 as well.
This also saved a bunch of time not having to take the console out and remove the entire shifter assembly, ( if you are going to use the solid mounts you will have to take everything out).
Just took her out for a spin - wow she shifts a lot "crisper" now. The entire shifter feels more "solid" now. Definitely less sponginess. Sponge Bob is now gone! Awsome. :):):)
Sorry for the multiple posts on this, everytime I hit submit I got an hour glass, so I kept trying ended up with like 5 posts.
dread
01-16-2007, 02:20 AM
Can you get the shifter assembly out after you do this.
Nutari
01-16-2007, 03:04 AM
Great... another thing on the list of stuff to do tomorrow.. at least I got my TT working..
How I just need to find the RPM wire and speed sensor wire..
Bakrauf
01-16-2007, 03:53 AM
Kick ass! another thing to put on my to do list.
flyrevs
01-16-2007, 08:31 PM
Can you get the shifter assembly out after you do this.
Yes - definitely. The rubber grommet is smashed between the top of the plastic shift assembly and the metal insert. The epoxy will only be able to fill the air gap not leak down under the assembly.
Caution: If you get epoxy on the nut on top of the bushing you will have a real hard time getting the nut off (because you wont be able to get a wrench over it.)
benzo
01-16-2007, 10:54 PM
What happens when the short throw shifter comes out for it. Can you get the shifter out with no problems.
dread
01-17-2007, 12:23 AM
He says yes according to his last post, but if you are getting the shifter it comes with aluminum bushings anyway, so you will be taking out the rubber ones.
i will definatly give it a try... i dont feel my shifter is that bad but there is plenty of room for improvement.
mazda3mods
02-01-2007, 08:27 PM
I took apart the console and was looking at the base while shifting and I didnt see much movement. Does this really make a difference?
flyrevs
02-02-2007, 10:16 AM
I took apart the console and was looking at the base while shifting and I didnt see much movement. Does this really make a difference?
The movement that you see, will be 90% gone. The shifting will be stiffer, as there is less room for shifter movement on the rubber bushings.
It's hard to describe but it will feel firmer - less vague.
The nice thing is you can do the mod in like 20 min. and you don't have to take anything apart (besides removing the boot).
mazda3mods
02-02-2007, 10:41 AM
So the goal is NOT to get the epoxy on the metal washer and bolt, right?
If I then get the TWM down the line, will I still be able to take all it this out for the other bushings.
flyrevs
02-02-2007, 03:15 PM
So the goal is NOT to get the epoxy on the metal washer and bolt, right?
If I then get the TWM down the line, will I still be able to take all it this out for the other bushings. Don't get any on the bolt, if you do it will be a beoutch to get a socket over it when you do want to take the shifter assembly out. As far as the metal washer, I tried to keep it off also but this is not as important, once you take the assembly out in the future, a dremmel will easy remove any epoxy that is in the way if you are going with the solid inserts.
mazda3mods
02-03-2007, 06:04 PM
Don't get any on the bolt, if you do it will be a beoutch to get a socket over it when you do want to take the shifter assembly out. As far as the metal washer, I tried to keep it off also but this is not as important, once you take the assembly out in the future, a dremmel will easy remove any epoxy that is in the way if you are going with the solid inserts.
So the job of the epoxy is to toughen the rubber to the plastic base?
flyrevs
02-04-2007, 09:55 AM
So the job of the epoxy is to toughen the rubber to the plastic base? It keeps the rubber on top from being able to move which stiffens up the whole assembly. The bottom part of the rubber is not effected so there is still some movement (very little) and you still have isolation against vibration.
The yellow in this pic is the epoxy:
The top part of the black rubber bushing can no longer move.
http://www.natattacks.com/ms3/epoxyshifter.jpg
Olestra
02-05-2007, 01:56 PM
(first) on that pic. No problems understanding it at all! =)
dread
02-05-2007, 03:55 PM
I think the problem is the bottom part of the bushing, I really don't see how this will make a difference with the rubbery shifter, I recommend some aluminum bushings to anyone thinking of doing this. Its like cutting your airbox instead of getting a CAI. It may make a little difference but you can do better.
mazda3mods
02-05-2007, 04:02 PM
So the metal one is the same design, just aluminum? I think I will wait till I buy the SS kit.
dread
02-06-2007, 06:13 PM
So the metal one is the same design, just aluminum? I think I will wait till I buy the SS kit.
yes, they fit the stock shifter assembly(friday)
abun24
02-16-2007, 04:23 PM
Has anyone tried this on other models? Seems that the epoxy might breakdown after a while resulting in cracks and pieces of epoxy bouncing around under your console. Probably just messy. btw, seems like the fix may be the best of both worlds keeping the vibration out but maintaining the crips shifting.
nice
benzo
02-20-2007, 11:31 PM
If you get the heavy duty kind of epoxy with a rating in the thousand pounds area, I really dont think it is going to crack or breakdown. But strange things happen.
Damian
04-06-2007, 05:57 PM
A nice idea, but frankly, I've spent the $26. If the car was 10 years old, and a hobby car, I might scrimp on the bushings, but we're talking about a matter of $20.
elderlycoffee
05-04-2007, 03:53 PM
Call me a noob, But how do you remove your boot and so on?
BlackJack
05-04-2007, 04:10 PM
Unscrew the knob and the panel will snap off.
elderlycoffee
05-08-2007, 04:45 PM
just did it, i'm waiting on it to dry as i type this. can't wait to try it. i hope i notice a difference
Ninja Edit: Maybe I should have asked this before I did it. Do I have to worry about any voided warranty?
elderlycoffee
05-08-2007, 07:25 PM
Yay, I love it.
Now I need a new boot and shift knob and I'll be done with the shifter for a while.
But I think I'm going for exhaust or rims first.
Mz3FRS
05-10-2007, 08:37 PM
Did this today with some 80D epoxy from work... The difference is very subtle. IMHO not worth it if you have to buy the epoxy/aplicator (even @ $4). But if you've got the bits and pieces you need already, why not?
I posted this before my epoxy fully cured. See below
elderlycoffee
05-10-2007, 10:00 PM
Did this today with some 80D epoxy from work... The difference is very subtle. IMHO not worth it if you have to buy the epoxy/aplicator (even @ $4). But if you've got the bits and pieces you need already, why not?
I used 30 min gel epoxy with a weight capacity of 3000 pounds.
I felt the difference right away, It felt like a whole new car.
Mz3FRS
05-13-2007, 08:37 PM
Well, after it's cured a bit more (I used '5min' epoxy, but it takes 24 hours to reach that 80Dhardness) It's more noticeable then my first post.
I judged too soon! It's worth at least $5. :-) It has certainly crispened up the shifts a bit. And it's ridiculously easy to do.
flyrevs
05-14-2007, 11:13 PM
Well, after it's cured a bit more (I used '5min' epoxy, but it takes 24 hours to reach that 80Dhardness) It's more noticeable then my first post.
I judged too soon! It's worth at least $5. :-) It has certainly crispened up the shifts a bit. And it's ridiculously easy to do.
Hey man glad to see it worked out for ya. I don't know why more people don't give this a go...... (mj)
macserv
05-15-2007, 12:56 AM
Hey man glad to see it worked out for ya. I don't know why more people don't give this a go...... (mj)
Sweet, I'll have to try this while I've got the boot off for a different install.
I about dropped a brick when I saw your sig... I'm from Wadsworth too. Next time I'm up there, you can bet I'll be watching for a CB MS3 :D
SharkDiver
05-15-2007, 05:26 PM
How does that center consol come off?Is there any screws or just pop it off?
Thx
Shark
Also I bought Super Glue brand epoxy called Plastic Fusion.It rates at 4000Lbs and sets in 5-10 Mins.Im thinking this should be perfect,I guess Ill find out.
elderlycoffee
05-15-2007, 05:42 PM
How does that center consol come off?Is there any screws or just pop it off?
Thx
Shark
Also I bought Super Glue brand epoxy called Plastic Fusion.It rates at 4000Lbs and sets in 5-10 Mins.Im thinking this should be perfect,I guess Ill find out.
Don't use the plastic fusion, I was about to buy it but then I noticed it has corrosives that melt plastic and create a literal fusion bond.
You do not want this because it will fsk your console, Take it back and get the 30 min gel epoxy rated at 3500 pounds.
SharkDiver
05-15-2007, 05:50 PM
Don't use the plastic fusion, I was about to buy it but then I noticed it has corrosives that melt plastic and create a literal fusion bond.
You do not want this because it will fsk your console, Take it back and get the 30 min gel epoxy rated at 3500 pounds.
Roger That....
silver_ms3
06-19-2007, 03:34 AM
I did examine the shifter assembly before and didn't feel it's loose. But last week I decided to give it a try, since it's a cheap mod. Wow, the shifter does feel much firmer. Together with the rear engine mount mod, the car holds itself very well now during taking off or upshiftings/downshiftings.(cool)
Anyone have a link for the read engine mount fix for $4?
silver_ms3
06-19-2007, 12:37 PM
Anyone have a link for the read engine mount fix for $4?
http://www.mzspd3.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123654918
blacksheepms3
07-13-2007, 05:26 PM
pretty nice mod, it beats payin over $30 for bushings. I will be doin this. No harm with this mod atleast not that i can think of. Thanks
blacksheepms3
07-17-2007, 08:35 PM
pretty nice mod, it beats payin over $30 for bushings. I will be doin this. No harm with this mod atleast not that i can think of. Thanks
I did it and I found this urethane glue for marine application. it's harder than the rubber bushings. I put it around the bolt making sure not to touch the bolt. The bolt on the upper left is a pain to get too but i was able to do it. It feels more stiffer than before. it's pretty noticeable but it doesnt have the vibration. pretty cool. The marine glue cost me $7 and this thing expands so it probably filled up the air pocket. so make sure u have a margin away from the bolt. pretty cool mod.
edrive73
07-17-2007, 10:01 PM
pretty nice mod, it beats payin over $30 for bushings. I will be doin this. No harm with this mod atleast not that i can think of. Thanks
If you're gonna do something to a new car just do it right the first time. Cutting corners to try and save money will only cost you more in the end. Just my 2 cents. (thought)
qwertyspeed3
07-20-2007, 03:40 AM
Can you still install the TWM bushings if this epoxy mod was done? Or do you have to grind/scrape off the epoxy first?
Thanks. (five-0)
redspeed
07-21-2007, 12:13 AM
I did this a while back, and I could not be happier. TWM bushing are nowhere in sigh in my mods to do list.
flyrevs
07-21-2007, 09:26 AM
Can you still install the TWM bushings if this epoxy mod was done? Or do you have to grind/scrape off the epoxy first?
Thanks. (five-0)yes, you will have to remove the epoxy to install the twm bushings - probably with a dremel tool
Honestly, once you do the mod, you will not want to do the solid bushings - no need.
funkyman
07-24-2007, 01:42 AM
It seems that this Loctite Epoxy Gel is your best friend and a fix for everything,you don`t work for them by any chance do you.:-)
Falconx84
07-25-2007, 12:46 AM
just tried it out on mine, can't wait for it to dry
FYI: I tried a shortcut -- "self-mix" 5 min epoxy -- I do not recommend it, much to thin, I ended up going back to Lowes for the gel epoxy that was originally recommended
funkyman
07-25-2007, 12:57 AM
What does this actually do to the?Does it get rid of that horrible knocking sound that we have when changing gears.
Falconx84
07-25-2007, 01:21 AM
i have yet to find out
from what I can gather, it takes a little of the slop out of the gearshift w/o resorting to solid bushings
if nothing else, it helps me get to know my car more intimately (kiss)
I came from old-school hondas, so its kind of weird working on a new car.... you know, like dating a virgin (upbum)
slix2
08-11-2007, 11:40 AM
Hey guys,
I finished the mod yesterday afternoon, and i am waiting for it to fully cure before i try it, i can't wait!
But just as some advice for anyone who was having some trouble finding the syringes (like i had because i didn't want to spend the money on an entire ink refill kit), you can try a CVS or any other pharmacy and look for an Oral Syringe. I went up to the counter where the pharmacist is and asked for one. Then he just handed me two of them for free.
Another option for the syringes is go to Walmart and pay around $1.40 for one.
Your choice there (thumb)
EDIT: Just tried it out - and definitely much crisper! Awesome mod!
boosted3
08-13-2007, 05:27 PM
A nice idea, but frankly, I've spent the $26. If the car was 10 years old, and a hobby car, I might scrimp on the bushings, but we're talking about a matter of $20.
Werd to ya mutha!
You've just spend 20K+ on a new car and there's a(read: cheap) marketed fix for the sloppy shifter- but, you want me epoxy my console?.. come again?!
redspeed
08-13-2007, 06:41 PM
It's not about how much you're spending, is about the results. If I can get almost the same result for $4 (I already had some epoxi from previous projects), why I'm gona spend $26.
boosted3
08-13-2007, 08:10 PM
It's your car, pal.
flyrevs
08-14-2007, 09:36 AM
Solid bushings are solid and just like a solid motor mount they will transmit vibration. The epoxy just stiffens up the assembly while keeping the vibration isolating properties of rubber, so you get a stiffer assembly with little to no added vibration. A lot of the bashers keep referring to the cost ($30), well anyone who owns a MS3 $30 bucks is not the issue. Not only is the epoxy cheaper - it's better (no added vibrations) . I'm sure I'll get bashed but that's ok, anyone who has used the epoxy knows what I'm talking about. :D
mrlilguy157
08-14-2007, 01:40 PM
gee i feel like i need to do this!
Wuz Ranger
09-01-2007, 07:16 PM
Do you guys recommend this mod on a two day old MS3?
flyrevs
09-02-2007, 04:16 PM
I would do it as soon as you want to get rid of the spongebob shifter feeling.
Why wait?
drledford93
11-26-2007, 10:05 PM
This is the best, cheapest, easiest mod ever! It makes the car "buck" less while shifting the car into 2nd. It's so good now that even my wife said she wants to drive it more! (no)
Daniel
flyrevs
11-27-2007, 01:05 AM
This is the best, cheapest, easiest mod ever! It makes the car "buck" less while shifting the car into 2nd. It's so good now that even my wife said she wants to drive it more! (no)
Daniel This is the shifter mod thread, I think you are referring to the thread about stiffening up your rear mount with epoxy. The shifter fix won't make your car buck less just shift better, no more spongy feel.
Anyhow glad you like it.
drledford93
11-27-2007, 10:39 AM
No, I was talking about the shifter mod. Trust me, it helped in the "bucking" of the transmission when shifting. My wife hated driving the car because of it...it didn't do it after doing that one mod. (I hadn't done the motor mount yet...)
Daniel
flyrevs
11-28-2007, 03:24 AM
Ok , do the rear mount next to really feel an even bigger difference!
Glad it worked out for ya (headbang)
blacksheepms3
11-28-2007, 01:03 PM
yeah it's true what flyrevs is saying, it's not to be cheap, but to avoid transmission of vibration to the shifter while stiffening up the shifter feel. I did it a while back after reading this thread and I like it. If you are meticulous it wont be messy and if it's a little messy u wont see it anyway. We all know vibrations will give you hand pain, you'll get the same thing from playing games with a vibrating control pads for hours. hehehehe
northmiler89
11-28-2007, 11:16 PM
this is rediculous.. just did it and went through the gears real quick.. after 10 minutes of drying there is a noticable difference. Giving it over night to dry and cant wait to test it out!
enganear
12-15-2007, 10:22 PM
OK, here is an alternative to the epoxy method that avoids the mess but has the same effect.
-Expose the shifter mount.
-Remove the four screws that secure the shifter mount.
-With a pair of pliers or tool of your choice, remove the four metal sleeves that stick through the rubber isolators.
-Take 1/8" off the sleeve length with a grinder.
- Reinstall the sleeves and mounting screws.
The rubber isolator will now be compressed to the point that no motion is allowed.
I did this this evening while removing my shifter and bending it forward and to the left 1" each direction. Also, if anyone is interested, the shifter knob thread is 10mm - 1.25P
-enganear
flyrevs
12-16-2007, 09:40 AM
OK, here is an alternative to the epoxy method that avoids the mess but has the same effect.
-Expose the shifter mount.
-Remove the four screws that secure the shifter mount.
-With a pair of pliers or tool of your choice, remove the four metal sleeves that stick through the rubber isolators.
-Take 1/8" The rubber isolator will now be compressed to the point that no motion is allowed.
I did this this evening while removing my shifter and bending it forward and to the left 1" each direction. Also, if anyone is interested, the shifter knob thread is 10mm - 1.25P
-enganear
This will work, I like it, good find! Only an enganear would think of this :)
SpdFreak
12-17-2007, 08:10 PM
OK, here is an alternative to the epoxy method that avoids the mess but has the same effect.
-Expose the shifter mount.
-Remove the four screws that secure the shifter mount.
-With a pair of pliers or tool of your choice, remove the four metal sleeves that stick through the rubber isolators.
-Take 1/8" off the sleeve length with a grinder.
- Reinstall the sleeves and mounting screws.
The rubber isolator will now be compressed to the point that no motion is allowed.
I did this this evening while removing my shifter and bending it forward and to the left 1" each direction. Also, if anyone is interested, the shifter knob thread is 10mm - 1.25P
-enganear
Pictures?
enganear
12-18-2007, 07:03 PM
Pictures? I will try to open it back up next week and take a picture. The TWM shifter install instructions are the best I've seen for removing the console. It is really simple and the modification to the sleeves is very easy if you have access to a grinder.
-enganear.
Tooch
12-26-2007, 06:06 AM
couldn't you simply replace the rubber bushings with aluminum ones? aren't bushings just washers and would be for sale at a hardware store for like .40cents each? not sure but thats what it sounds like to me. lemme know what ya think...
TRMS3
12-26-2007, 08:33 AM
couldn't you simply replace the rubber bushings with aluminum ones? ...
That's what TWM sells for around $35.00... hence the reason for enganear's (and others) do-it-yourself-for-less mod(s)!
aren't bushings just washers and would be for sale at a hardware store for like .40cents each? not sure but thats what it sounds like to me...
TWM's bushings, unlike simple flat washers, have a 'step' in them to locate and fix the shifter's carrier frame to the car matching the bolt hole pattern on the tunnel to the larger ones in the carrier (which are sized to accomodate the rubber bushings). This fixes the carrier to the tunnel w/o having to apply excessive amounts of torque to the fixing bolts to keep the whole thing from sliding around. Do away with the bushings all together (rubber or aluminum) and you may have to apply enough torque to the mounting bolts that you risk cracking the plastic shifter carrier...
You could possibly, with careful selection of sizes, create a 'stepped' bushing like TWM's using a stack of off-the-shelf washers, but I doubt the tolerances would be tight enough to eliminate all side-to-side play in the carrier which is the whole point of replacing the oem rubber bushings... might be worth a try tho'... g/l
Tooch
12-26-2007, 06:28 PM
ahhh, well I'm probably going to get a short throw kit so it should come with them anyways right :D
SpdFreak
12-26-2007, 06:33 PM
If anyone knows exact specs of the solid mounts I can have them made.
I will need proof of the measurements before I have them made.
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