What Type Of Oil And Filter To Use For Ms6

[skylinemonster]

So, here's the deal. I have a new speed 6 and it's beginning to be about that time that the old oil must come out and new must be put in. Question is, I have never seen this level of difficulty determining what oil and filter should be used in a vehicle. This one apparantly is quite difficult to determine. So I do the sensible thing, call the dealer. They say that only conventional oil 5w-30 should be used along with their oil filter. Now thats all fine and dandy, but this is a speed 6. And a speed 6 is a turbo dual cam engine. So, the gears in my brain start turning and I ask the dealer, "what about synthetic oil", supposed to be the best right? He then asks another gentleman next to him who in turn asks another person. I can hear this debate in the background over the phone. The final consensus that is presented to me is that the synthetic oil is and i quote "too slippery" for the engine. Now im no rocket scientist, but isn't slippery what you want? Doesn't slippery mean less heat and friction? Is that just an ignorant comment? Please anyone chime in and give me some direction here. I also would like to add that I previously owned an evo8 that required mobil 1 synthetic. The oil cap itself said mobil 1 synthetic only and that engine layout is the same as the mzr. Personally I would think the mzr runs even cooler than the evo due to direct injection. The past threads on oil selection havent been that helpful. Let's straighten this out once and for all.

[Killer]

Mobil 1 is just about the best stuff you can put in any engine.
It's not "Too Slippery"
(lol)

[BOOSTR]

The OEM filter is good. Pureolator Pure one is also good. You've already broken in the engine with traditional oil. Switching to synthetic will not hurt it, since its a new engine. If it cost too much for you, go with a blend.

[Brian MP5T]

Royal Purple... I have cooked MOBIL easily in the P5. RP has never failed me.

[Redlinez]

Motorcraft semi synthetic is great oil for less money. If you change it every 3000-5000 miles, you'll be fine. Oil labs consistently tell people using quality oils that this OCI is fine. Castrol makes a 0/30 German blend that is fantastic. It's known as GC (German Castrol) available at certain Autozones.

[Killer]

Royal Purple... I have cooked MOBIL easily in the P5. RP has never failed me.If you dont mind paying out about 50 bucks in oil every change. PASS

[Raynman]

Err...The dealership geniuses don't know that the stock fill is already semi syn?

[BOOSTR]

You can get a 5 quart bottle of Mobil 1 from WalMart for $22. A PureOne filter will cost you $5. A lot of cars that come factory filled with Mobil 1 have engines worth more than our Mazda's. Does that make it the best, no. Point being you would not exactly put crap in a brand new Bentley Continental GT now would you.

[Klip]

I noticed with my choice to Mobil1 Super Syn/0w-30w, it gets blacker/dirtier much more quickly than any other oil I have ever used in any car. After the first oil change at 1500 miles for my MS6, within the next 500 miles (1500 to 2000) the Mobil 1 is already looking very dirty (blacker). Does this simply mean its doing its job? or am I reading too much into this? This car is driven about every other day and only driven normally ei: not raced or driven extremely hard for extended periods.
Previous oil's used in some of my other vechicles include Castrol Syntec and Valvoline Ext. mileage in a Nissan 4cyl and the wife's 98' 626. Both of these oils seem to stay cleaner (clearer/amber in color) than the Mobil 1 I am using in my MS6.
comments?

PS: I don't mean to drive this discussion into the ground, just looking for some simple explainations of these differences I've noticed from personal experience.

[Killer]

I noticed with my choice to Mobil1 Super Syn/0w-30w, it gets blacker/dirtier much more quickly than any other oil I have ever used in any car. After the first oil change at 1500 miles for my MS6, within the next 500 miles (1500 to 2000) the Mobil 1 is already looking very dirty (blacker). Does this simply mean its doing its job? or am I reading too much into this? This car is driven about every other day and only driven normally ei: not raced or driven extremely hard for extended periods.
Previous oil's used in some of my other vechicles include Castrol Syntec and Valvoline Ext. mileage in a Nissan 4cyl and the wife's 98' 626. Both of these oils seem to stay cleaner (clearer/amber in color) than the Mobil 1 I am using in my MS6.
comments?

PS: I don't mean to drive this discussion into the ground, just looking for some simple explainations of these differences I've noticed from personal experience.

Let me make it simple. I have run dino-oil or Mobile 1 in just about every car I have ever owned changing it every 3000-4000 miles and never had ANY internal engine problems EVER. I am in my forties and have owned at least 15 different cars in my lifetime. Two of them being turbocharged.

Don't over think the oil issue.

[Klip]

1killercls, Thank you for the response. I am confident in my choice of using Mobil1 oil. I came to this conclusion after much discussion/reading this forum. I was only wondering WHY is all...........

Why the Mobil 1 product seems to get blacker/dirtier sooner?

One of the biggest words in the english language is WHY? It is also gets me into more trouble when I ask it............(poke) lol

[II-Savy]

+1 for Mobil 1.

[Raynman]

Why the Mobil 1 product seems to get blacker/dirtier sooner?


Just because the oil is not honey-colored, it doesn't mean that the oil is not doing its job. Only a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) can determine whether the oil components has broken down and is not doing its job. It's possible for synthetic oils to turn darker faster than dino oil because of the higher concentration of cleaners in them, which means it's doing its job.

As far as M1, Mobil1 is indeed good but not as good as it used to be. Materials cost increases have forced Mobil to downgrade it from a Grp V (I think) oil to Grp III. For a while, Pennzoil Platinum was proving to be the Mobil1 giant slayer. It was Grp V, was cheaper than M1, and had similar UOA results to M1. Inexplicably, it moved down to Grp III as well along with other major synthetic oils. I think the only Grp IV and above oils are the specialty oils like Royal Purple and Redline.

As for me, I just use whichever synthetic is on sale or has rebates.

[RevLimitLaunch]

anyone know of a k&n oil filter number for these cars? no parts stores have anything listed for these cars yet. also, i did a lot of research on oil a long while back and the only true fully 100% synthetic oil, i found, is amsoil and royal purple.

[Afroman]

Synthetic Oil FTW. My last car I used Mobil 1 Super Syn since Day one and 96,000 miles later the cams still looked brand new and shiney.

As long as you change it when your supposed to you will be fine. Dont lose sleep over it.

[TexasSpeed6]

I was the store manager of a oil change place for a while, just because your oil gets dirty fast doesn't mean it is bad oil. Actually it means it is good oil, your oil *should* turn dark because this is the oil cleaning out the inside of your engine and then holding those hydrocarbons in suspension in the oil. If your oil is not getting dirty or it is not getting dirty as quickly as another brand, in the same vehicle, then the oil is not cleaning the engine as well and/or it is allowing more hydrocarbons to settle out inside your motor.

Synthetics are not "more slippery" than regular oil, I got a good laugh out of that one. Synthetics have more surface and film strength so your parts are less likely to contact each other, this lack of contact may make the oil seem slippery, but it is just the lack of contact not any slipperyness in the oil. As your oil's viscosity (thinkness) goes up or down its film strength goes up and down also, think grease vs 0w30. Also as your oil heats up and cools down its viscosity (thinkness) changes and its film strength also goes up and down, synthetics are much more stable than regular oils. When subjected to heat a synthetics film strength will out perform regular oils everytime.

I would also not recomend using a regular oil in any turbo engine because of the RPM that the turbines inside the turbo turn at. Regular oils just aren't designed to handle those kind of RPMs.

Also do not use any oils with additional additives, like "high mileage" oils, these are marketing gimicks and they actually generally do more harm than good. The oils with turbocharger anti-foming additives I have no experience with and can't honestly say anything about them.

In short I like Moble1, I have personally used Moble1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Redline oils and all perform great, but Moble1 I can get at Walmart for $22 for 5 quarts. If you have alot of money to blow and want the best of the best of the best then get the specialty oils, but if you want 5 quarts of exceptional oil for $22, stick to Moble1. Also if you don't like to change your own oil, most places carry Moble1, they don't generally carry the specialty oils.

On oil filters, I wouldn't really worry about them. I just get one of the better oils and usually the cheapest oil filter on the shelf, the reason is because the generics are just rebranded versions of the name brand ones, and other than the label there is no real difference in the filtering capability, at least as far as filtering anything that is going to actually harm the engine. Get a good oil and there wont be metal filings and chunks of deposits to filter, the blackness in the oil is to small to filter and does not damage the engine.

I don't recommend engine cleaners, just buy a good oil and it will clean the engine on its own.