Mazdaspeed OEM Wastegate actuator = $$$$$$$$

[Allen]

So I just found out that my Mazdaspeed's wastegate diaphragm is toast and needs to be replaced. Also, the Mazda OEM wastegate actuator cost an arm and a leg to replace (~$500). I've been told that aftermarket wastegate actuators are quite a bit cheaper. Therefore, could someone point me to the right recommended aftermarket replacement?

I don't know much about the wastegate actuators so I'm trying to research it a bit more. I'm a bit confused about the huge price gap between the aftermarkets brands. For example is this the wastegate actuator or just the diaphragm?
Code: ATP-WGT-011B
Price:$59.00

Should I go ahead and replace the actuator or just the diaphragm that's shredded? Is the wastegate diaphragm different for each manufacturer?

Mechanics at the shop said it was a lengthy job to complete. So, I guess this wouldn't be something I could do on my own. The shop labor fee for this install isn't cheap either. It's not so much a problem that I don't boost all the time, but it's a pain when I can't boost at all.

Thanks!

[Rogue]

That part you've looked up is for the whole wastegate actuator. I have it on my car, and a friend of mine put it on his. As far as having a shop do it... it really depends on how mechanically inclined you are, and if you have some tools. PM Velocifero (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/member.php?u=14343) (Scott), he's done it on his car in his driveway. He can tell you what you need to know.

[Allen]

That part you've looked up is for the whole wastegate actuator. I have it on my car, and a friend of mine put it on his. As far as having a shop do it... it really depends on how mechanically inclined you are, and if you have some tools. PM Velocifero (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/member.php?u=14343) (Scott), he's done it on his car in his driveway. He can tell you what you need to know.

Thanks Rogue, I'm definitely not afraid of spending $60-$80 (prices seems to vary from different forum posts) if that takes care of everything to replace the stock part. When the mechanic told me that Mazda told him the replacement part was well over $450... I was shocked. He asked them how many they replaced and Mazda said none because everyone was buying aftermarket (no duh! $400-$500 for a part vs <$100 aftermarket? Just seems too ridiculous). If I read right, it looks like there is no need for any modification for the ATP replacement.

This would be correct the part to order as a replacement?
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-011B&Category_Code=WGT

I've PM'ed Velocifer (Scott) asking him for some help in this and waiting for him to respond back later. I did some more digging and Alejo_NIN makes it sound like not-to-bad-of-a-job. LOL

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123633646&highlight=Wastegate+Diaphragm


This wastegate acutator doesn't look too scary... how big is the actual size? I guess getting to it is a pain in the butt?
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=93630

Damn, wish someone had written a HOW-TO on the forum. (glare)

[Kansei]

It's positioned between the engine block and the turbo, so I'm assuming it isn't too accessible especially with intake piping and all that in the way.

[Kansei]

This isn't a really good picture of it, but here's where it is located on the turbo

http://picasaweb.google.com/clauretano/TurboProject/photo#5008021869009339778

it's sitting right below my boost controller in that picture, with the rod going straight down from it.

[Rogue]

yeah, that's the right part. To get to it, you'll have to take off your hot pipe and some other parts....shouldn't be too hard.

some pictures:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/millah97/Turbo%20Project%20-%20Day%208%20-%20Turbo%20and%20Piping/IMG_5333.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/millah97/Turbo%20Project%20-%20Day%208%20-%20Turbo%20and%20Piping/IMG_5350.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/millah97/Turbo%20Project%20-%20Day%208%20-%20Turbo%20and%20Piping/IMG_5340.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/millah97/Turbo%20Project%20-%20Day%208%20-%20Turbo%20and%20Piping/IMG_5338.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/millah97/Turbo%20Project%20-%20Day%208%20-%20Turbo%20and%20Piping/IMG_5339.jpg

Please note this is not the stock turbo. It is a GT28R, but it gives you an idea of where the WGA is mounted.

[Allen]

Thanks a lot Rogue and Kansei. I'll order the part tomorrow.

Alejo_NIN also provided me a great link:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123634567


Allen

[TheMAN]

the OEM shit *is* adjustable, that's where the price difference comes from

[Allen]

the OEM shit *is* adjustable, that's where the price difference comes from

I'm just running stock turbo, do I need to worry about that?

Thanks,
Allen

[MP3Architect]

i would also contact jdm sam ("jdm sam x" on aim). hes pretty knowledgeable on this and can get you a good deal on a replacement for sure.

[ChopstickHero]

off topic: rogue, what kind of coating is that on the manifold?

[orng1]

I can't see why the dealer doesn't just sell the ATP piece instead of trying to sell the part that is more than 5x the cost. Come on now wouldn't most people buy the part if it cost $150 instead. I had that problem with mine and after I replaced it once and it happened again I was done with that.

[jmv]

I've got the ATP replacement, yes its the one you put a link to, yes it works fine although it is not adjustable like the stocker. Installation for me wasn't too bad with the help of another person, although it took a long time if you consider it was just 2 bolts and a clip. I used a really long screwdriver or two to assist with the clip, and a ratchet with a flex joint to get at the bolts (its not easy to make everything fit and have room to turn the ratchet, but its possible.) I went at the top bolt from the top of course, and then for the bottom bolt one person was under the car with the ratchet, and the other person was up top holding onto the actual socket making sure it didn't slip off the bolt. Trying to get the socket on the bottom bolt was probably the hardest part, the rest was just time consuming.

[Allen]

Thank you guys for the info. (first) I'm sure I'll be back with more questions before I actually get it replaced. (ughdance)

[TheMAN]

I can't see why the dealer doesn't just sell the ATP piece instead of trying to sell the part that is more than 5x the cost. Come on now wouldn't most people buy the part if it cost $150 instead. I had that problem with mine and after I replaced it once and it happened again I was done with that.

because it's NOT the same!

its just like brake pads... people think brakes are brakes and just get the $20 autozone SHIT instead of paying $100 for OEM brake pads from the dealer

[Blackrose]

Rouge who coated your mani and DP and how long has it been like that?

[jmv]

because it's NOT the same!

its just like brake pads... people think brakes are brakes and just get the $20 autozone SHIT instead of paying $100 for OEM brake pads from the dealer

right, they are not the same because the stock piece is adjustable.... but if they hold very close to the same boost and serve the same purpose, and both are able to be bolted right in, is there really that much problem with going with the cheaper one?? I guess its personal opinion, but it wasn't a super big deal to me. I guess YMMV.

[Kansei]

right, they are not the same because the stock piece is adjustable.... but if they hold very close to the same boost and serve the same purpose, and both are able to be bolted right in, is there really that much problem with going with the cheaper one?? I guess its personal opinion, but it wasn't a super big deal to me. I guess YMMV.

I'd say typically the OEM one would probably be of better quality, but well with how unreliable people's wastegate actuators have been.. ugh

[Allen]

Yeah, OEM is about 7x the cost of aftermarket... unfortunately, it's not pocket change for me. So, hopefully the ATP isn't crap! Seeing how several folks (knowledgeable ones too) have used it, I feel better taking that risk myself. I should be able to find someone good with cars to help me install it.
Great, now it looks like it's going to get a bit nippy here in Texas... grrrr.

[Kansei]

ATP seems like a great all-around vendor, they have a nice selection of parts.

[orng1]

I see how it could be argued that the OEM piece is better because it's adjustable but if you set it to 6-7psi then your just spending money. I think that's what most people would want their low boost to be anyways so I'd save the money and go for the cheaper one. IF you set it too high or too low you'd have to take the thing off and set it up again, you know where you stand with the ATP.

[jmv]

Yeah, OEM is about 7x the cost of aftermarket... unfortunately, it's not pocket change for me. So, hopefully the ATP isn't crap! Seeing how several folks (knowledgeable ones too) have used it, I feel better taking that risk myself. I should be able to find someone good with cars to help me install it.
Great, now it looks like it's going to get a bit nippy here in Texas... grrrr.


hey if you're near austin i could always help.....

[Pmpkinhead]

My car started hesitating under WOT at 3000-4000 RPM. I took it in today and the dealer is putting in a new WGA!!! (warranty) I thought it was bad gas. I have no engine mods except Firsty's Grounding Kit and a Yellow Top Optima with Custom Alum Battery Cage from E-Bay. I never heard of a WGA until this thread started. Thanks Mazda Forums.

367 (mp3yellow

[Sspring89]

So, how exactly do you adjust the stock WGA? is there just a screw to up the boost, say, 1 psi?

[Kansei]

So, how exactly do you adjust the stock WGA? is there just a screw to up the boost, say, 1 psi?

well not reeeally. All you are adjusting is the length of it. If you tighten it, theoretically it'll take more boost to actuate it fully depending on how the stock actuator is.

Actually wait no.. no matter what your wastegate actuator should be open fully by 5.5-6.5 psi (don't know what stock msp is) so if you tighten it to let it boost a little higher, it'll just take longer to open. yeah just get a manual boost controller. Much easier, more precise, etc.

[orng1]

That is a much better option, boost controler. It would be too much of a pain in the a to keep taking the actuator off just to get a pound extra or less. I have a MBC and I just set it up higher lower it just takes a few seconds.

[TheMAN]

right, they are not the same because the stock piece is adjustable.... but if they hold very close to the same boost and serve the same purpose, and both are able to be bolted right in, is there really that much problem with going with the cheaper one?? I guess its personal opinion, but it wasn't a super big deal to me. I guess YMMV.

the OEM one just doesn't bolt right in... you have to adjust it to the proper length first before installing it, then testing to see if it's building the correct stock boost... which wouldn't be the same on all setups on a given same length due to manufacturing variations on all sorts of parts... the OEM shit is NOT pre-adjusted to the correct length from the factory!

[TheMAN]

I'd say typically the OEM one would probably be of better quality, but well with how unreliable people's wastegate actuators have been.. ugh


the fact that the original ones have been breaking on some people's cars is why mazda came out with an updated part, which shouldn't have problems like the original ones did

[jmv]

the OEM one just doesn't bolt right in... you have to adjust it to the proper length first before installing it, then testing to see if it's building the correct stock boost... which wouldn't be the same on all setups on a given same length due to manufacturing variations on all sorts of parts... the OEM shit is NOT pre-adjusted to the correct length from the factory!

thats true. Didn't really think about that. Well, from what i had read about the ATP some people said they saw about 2 psi increase, which i thought might be a little on the high side but still okay. Turns out when i got it it really only put me up 1 psi from when i was bone stock, which to me is just fine. The car feels like maybe it takes just a little more gas to build boost, but that could just be mind tricks from going from the leaking diagprham to a good one.

BTW Edwin, i'm not just trying to straight up disagree with you or anything, just pointing out how this seemed to be the best option for me given the cost.

[Alejo_NIN]

i thought i wrote a how to on replacing the atp wastegate...hmm....

MODS?!?!


oh wait, is on my sig (rtfm)
(glare)

[Pmpkinhead]

Thanks for the Waste gate writeup (How To). I would never attempt it! Anyway, my new WGA is installed (dealer warranty) and the the cars power feels so much smoother now. Wow. Do I have to go thru this every 40,000 miles? I wonder if the updated part is better? Oh well. Thanks again!

367 (mp3yellow

[ZenProtege]

It seems like I read the ATP WGA had a diaphram made out of a different material than the stocker( supposedly better). I don't know if there's any truth to that, but I thought I would mention it anyways... I don't know about anybody else, but getting the arm of the new WGA on the turbo took longer than anything else for me. I had the WGA bolts off in 10 min..I spent 5 or 6 times the amount of time trying to thread the arm onto the turbo. BTW...did anybody else have to slightly rotate the actuator rod to align it with the turbo's WG flap?

[jmv]

It seems like I read the ATP WGA had a diaphram made out of a different material than the stocker( supposedly better). I don't know if there's any truth to that, but I thought I would mention it anyways... I don't know about anybody else, but getting the arm of the new WGA on the turbo took longer than anything else for me. I had the WGA bolts off in 10 min..I spent 5 or 6 times the amount of time trying to thread the arm onto the turbo. BTW...did anybody else have to slightly rotate the actuator rod to align it with the turbo's WG flap?

yeah i had to rotate mine some. My main problem with fitting the rod to the WG flap was that it was like, a millimeter too short when in the closed position. So i jacked with it some, and then realized i had an old pump style bicycle tire pump sitting there in the garage.... hooked that to the vac line on the WGA, had someone give it a pump while i was under the car guiding it on to the wastegate. Worked like a charm.

[Allen]

Hopefully, I get the part next week and weather won't turn ugly so that I can work on it before the New Year comes around. Can't wait to keep up with the cars on the road again..... (ughdance)

[Allen]

Thanks for all the help here on the forum. Thanks to some cool friends who spent the time to help me install the wastegate actuator (also thx to jmv for offering to help out and JDM Sam for phone support).... also want to thank my producer, mom and dad ... LOL, feel like I just won an award.

It was a real PITA to install for such a simple part! I didn't have a camera handy, but I doubt that I was going to be able to take step-by-step photos of what we did (I wanted to do that in the first place). All the wires in the way, the steel pipes in the way, stripped screw, broken bracket that we had to deal with made the task that much more difficult... it wasn't as simple as "do this" and "do that" and be done with the replacement. One positive was that we did not have to remove the manifold at all. We removed the heatshield to remove the O2 sensor.

I didn't buy my car new, so I have no idea how some these misc items broke and others are missing. Could have been modification by previous owner? Or Mazda service department being careless handling previous repairs/inspection on my car (surprise, surprise ... not)? I'm not sure, but it does not keep the Zoom Zoom from running.

Some issues that we discovered:

I'm missing two bolts that holds the manifold heatshield in place, I'm missing one center bolt for the manifold (I can see someone not wanting to put the bolt back on... but still...), the bracket (with 3 bolts) that holds the J-pipe in place is cracked (need to find a replacement later) and chipped in one area (but still able to hold the J-pipe in place), had a stripped hex bolt (easily replaced) for a bracket that holds the tubes and steel pipes (3 of them, but I don't know what they are for) near the wastegate actuator... and finally the wastegate rubber tube (to the BPV?) was removed (mechanics chunked it away without telling me, they only said they cut and sealed it... had a spare tube that was used as replacement).

Removing the clip wasn't too hard but it was a bit of work trying to rotate it to get the screw driver wedged under the pin.

With three people helping (two was enough, but had room for extra hand, LOL) we were able to get the new actuator arm on and clip it back in place.

The nipple is facing upwards instead of downwards ... just like the photos Rogue posted... wasn't switched on purpose, I just wasn't paying attention until we were done struggling with it. We didn't really want to mess with it after getting the pin/clip placed on successfully.

Was wondering.. is the wastegate heatshield necessary to keep? I kept it anyways, but I see Rogue's photo doesn't have the heatshield.

I noticed that my air intake box has a big hole in the front and it's sucking in all the hot air from the radiator fan. I would like to research a bit more to see if I can improve this ... any suggestions would be great. Was thinking about CAI ... or something less expensive and homemade (aluminum duct hose to redirect the air intake to the wheel well, etc). hehe.

Hmm, that's basically it ... but we got the darn wastegate replaced... cleared the service engine codes with an OBDII scanner... I've been boosting all day to see if the engine check code would come back, but haven't had any problems yet. I can feel the boost kick in around 3500 rpm... but wish I had a boost gauge to tell the truth! haha... every time I fix something I get drawn to the idea of upgrading something else. Trying to find a picture of a stock engine bay to make sure that the rubber tube we replace is plugged into the right end opposite of the wastegate actuator nipple... should be the right spot though. Will drive it rest of this week and see if any issues pop up... great experience though, enjoyed working on the car, especially when things turn out well.
(drive2)

[Ryoga28]

I noticed that my air intake box has a big hole in the front and it's sucking in all the hot air from the radiator fan. I would like to research a bit more to see if I can improve this ... any suggestions would be great. Was thinking about CAI ... or something less expensive and homemade (aluminum duct hose to redirect the air intake to the wheel well, etc). hehe.

There is supposed to be an elbow to direct airflow to the driver's side.

[Allen]

There is supposed to be an elbow to direct airflow to the driver's side.

Bummers, didn't see that when I got the car. Grrrreat, something else to work on.... oh well, one step at a time. Thanks. :-)

[Pmpkinhead]

The elbow breaks off real easy!!! If you get another one (recommended), don't bump it.

367 (mp3yellow

[MSP608]

will the atp wastegate fit with the gt28rs? since you have to reuse your stock wastegate to make the disco potato fit i would assume the atp is transferable too?

[Pmpkinhead]

Thanks for the Waste gate writeup (How To). I would never attempt it! Anyway, my new WGA is installed (dealer warranty) and the the cars power feels so much smoother now. Wow. Do I have to go thru this every 40,000 miles? I wonder if the updated part is better? Oh well. Thanks again!

Car is going in again on Thursday (2-1-07). I think the WGA is gone again. It stumbles as soon as the engine hits 3000 RPM under ANY load. So much for the 40,000 mile deal. Maybe I didn't get the updated part.

367 (mp3yellow

[Warlock2X]

thats how much they are from mazda?!?!?! im glad i bought an extended warranty because mines either stuck about half way open or its toast like yours man and if they dont wanna cover it im gonna raise hell becasue i didnt pay an extra 1500 for a 100k mile warranty for nothing.

[MSP608]

thats how much they are from mazda?!?!?! im glad i bought an extended warranty because mines either stuck about half way open or its toast like yours man and if they dont wanna cover it im gonna raise hell becasue i didnt pay an extra 1500 for a 100k mile warranty for nothing.

well go break some shit, get your warranties worth haha.

[Warlock2X]

well go break some shit, get your warranties worth haha.

already have, the front driver strut is dying due to terrible streets where i live. and theres a leak in the turbo oil turbo return line, not to mention the "hardpipes" breaking where they usually so.

[ching714]

I have holes in my wastegate actuator. This is keeping me from passing emissions. Is it safe to blokck off the wastegate temporarily to pass emmisions? If so can someone tell me the safest way? Any and all help will be appreciated!!!

[Alamo1]

sub to keep these pics handy!

[kneedragger89]

Do not buy the forge wga.

[yudkib]

sounds like someone has an experience to share?

neither the forge nor the ATP is as good as OEM, but as stated, the prices are ludicrious.

[MSP-2003.5]

The stock WGA is a piece of crap, mine went bad at 30k miles. I now have 40k on my forge wga and it is still working like a charm

[destineal]

ATP here I come.

[destineal]

This e-clip is a S.O.B. and I want to fight it.

[steedspeed]

Nothing oem is worth the money. Their replacement turbo manifold is over $1000 for a cheap shit casting. BTW you are always better off spending money on tools rather than mechanics. Buy the tools and learn how to do stuff yourself because it isnt that hard.

[destineal]

Well I just finished the ATP WGA install.I still have my idle issues. Gonna go get some vacuum hoses to see how that goes. I dunno if the new WGA is bad or what. Peaks at 9-10psi and settles at 6psi..feels stronger though.

[MSP-2003.5]

any fuel cut after replacing the WGA? did you get the forge WGA? it has different selection of springs that may alter your spike

[destineal]

Me? I got the ATP WGA, but I have some underlying issues going on vacuum related i think.