How to:Installing AWR rear/bottom mount [Archive]

Nutari

12-04-2006, 07:07 PM

Tools needed:

1/2 Breaker bar
3/8 ratchet
17mm sockets
Rhino ramps
Jack

optional:
Safety Glasses
Gloves
Light
Hammer
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/toolsused.jpg

First, get your car up on some ramps. I use good ol' walmart rhino ramps.
Remember to put wedges behind your back tires for safety reasons. (Also remember to take them out when you are done.. >.<)

This is the new AWR SEXY mount. So very pretty.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/awrmount02.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/awrmount01.jpg

Put some peices of short 2x4's on a jackstand and jack it up just so it touches the tranny. Then pump it 1/4 just so it barely lifts the trans.
This is to support the motor while we remove the mount.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/jackpoint.jpg

We will be removing two 17mm bolts. They should come fairly easily. If not, use the breaker bar.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/oldmount.jpg

1st bolt out.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/1stboltout.jpg

2nd bolt out.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/2ndboltout.jpg

Now you have to manuever the mount out. This part took longer than the entire first half.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/pullingitout.jpg

Comparison of old and new. The stock mount is actually pretty firm. Much firmer than the stock Protege 5 mounts were.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/comparison.jpg

In goes the new. Also very hard. You need to make sure all the holes are lined up perfectly.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/lineupholes.jpg

Once you have everything lined up, just tighten everything down. I dont know the exact torque specs so if someone could jump in and add that, I will edit this part with that info.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/everythingtightend.jpg

There! All done. Should only take you 30 minutes.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y241/Deathwater/mazda/pretty.jpg
Additional Tips
I did this mod yesterday and have discoverd a way to make it MUCH easier.

First off, there is no need to support the tranny when the mount is removed. Without the mount things are quite stable.

Second, the three 19mm bolts shown in your 4th picture can be removed. These hold an adapter plate and with this plate out of the way, the old mount just slides out. Slide the new one in, put the plate back; no prying or shoving. Five bolts and you are done. It is helpful to start the threads in all five bolts before tightening any of them. At this point you might need to put a little upward pressure with a jack to line it up, but I found it unnecessary. The three 19mm bolts were pretty tight so torque them up well.

Thanks for the write-up and I hope this makes it easier for future implementers.

LOKTITE

L8R

12-04-2006, 07:10 PM

Very nice and much easier to install than the P5... So how does the new MM feel?

Nutari

12-04-2006, 07:17 PM

Shifts so much better! Hardly ANY cabin vibrations at all. Anyone who has installed the AWR MM in either their p5 or msp will know, those shook like crazy! I can barely tell the difference at idle.

Shifting feels much more .. 'crisp'(cant think of a better word). I love how you feel like you are really in touch with the car now.

I will be updating more as I 'break it in'.

stay tuned for the TMIC and Shift boot HOW TO's.

flyrevs

12-06-2006, 03:01 PM

Hughes412

12-06-2006, 04:37 PM

Man very good write up. Now do one for the protege! I'll be doing my this weekend.

Nutari

12-06-2006, 08:28 PM

Man very good write up. Now do one for the protege! I'll be doing my this weekend.
There already is one for the protege.. for both front and back.

flyrevs

12-09-2006, 11:04 AM

Did you go with the 70 or 88 durometer hardness?
Thanks!!!!:)

flyrevs

12-09-2006, 03:52 PM

I thought I had answered you already. There wasnt a choice when I ordered. It was a package deal with the TMIC. It can be ordered seperate but im not sure which one I got. I'll get in touch with ken and let you know
Ok thanks for looking into this for me. I'll probably get what you have. I just don't want a bunch of needless vibrations.

Thanks alot, Tony

voiceKoil

12-10-2006, 04:33 AM

Good write up......The durometer will top it off. I didnt look into the install that much but it looks super easy, Ill be getting one now for sure. Thats good it dosent vibrate that much.... GOOD DEAL!!!

Nutari

12-11-2006, 07:36 PM

Ok, Ken says I got the 70 duro mount. (first)

XTREMEJ26

12-30-2006, 03:27 PM

Hey Where Did You Get The Mount And Tmic From?

Nutari

12-30-2006, 07:18 PM

Hey Where Did You Get The Mount And Tmic From?
http://mazda3online.web.aplus.net/product_info.php?cPath=22_160&products_id=653

http://mazda3online.web.aplus.net/product_info.php?cPath=22_160&products_id=682

bbrich57

01-07-2007, 10:29 AM

Sorry, I thought I had answered you already. There wasnt a choice when I ordered. It was a package deal with the TMIC. It can be ordered seperate but im not sure which one I got. I'll get in touch with ken and let you know

Nice write up, as I too am thinking about doing something like this. From what I've read so far the 70 DM sounds like the best of both worlds... a nice compromise for us dual purpose drivers. :)
One minor critism though, if you keep your pics to a 5" width, not only will the text not spread out, but you will be able to see the whole picture on your screen, and someone who wants to do this will be able to print out your write up w/no loss of info.
Just my .02. :)

Has anyone heard of the cheaper alternative to doing this as in filling in the stock mount w/either silicone or epoxy? Two guys on the iMazda site did a write up and it seems to be working for them just fine. Still waiting for the longevity issues to surface though, but for around $4 this can be done too.
I haven't tried either... yet, just wondered.

Nutari

01-07-2007, 11:12 AM

Nice write up, as I too am thinking about doing something like this. From what I've read so far the 70 DM sounds like the best of both worlds... a nice compromise for us dual purpose drivers. :)
One minor critism though, if you keep your pics to a 5" width, not only will the text not spread out, but you will be able to see the whole picture on your screen, and someone who wants to do this will be able to print out your write up w/no loss of info.
Just my .02. :)

what resolution would that be? I made it big for clarity. Sorry if I went a little overboard. I like big clear straightforeward pictures.

ok, first post edited.

I shrank them down from 1024x768 to 800x600.

bbrich57

01-07-2007, 11:53 AM

what resolution would that be? I made it big for clarity. Sorry if I went a little overboard. I like big clear straightforeward pictures.
ok, first post edited.
I shrank them down from 1024x768 to 800x600.

Naw Man. It's all good. I was just hoping I could help you, and the others, writeups be more usable.
For the writeups and pics that I have posted (what? 2? :) ) I usually upload @ 91 dpi, due to monitor and hosting limitations. Using 91dpi resolution, 5" equals 455 pixels (width.) I've had good luck w/that setting and I am hoping that you would too.
No offense intended, and certainly no apology necessary.
Good write up, Man!! :)

Nutari

01-07-2007, 11:55 AM

Naw Man. It's all good. I was just hoping I could help you, and the others, writeups be more usable.
For the writeups and pics that I have posted (what? 2? :) ) I usually upload @ 91 dpi, due to monitor and hosting limitations. Using 91dpi resolution, 5" equals 455 pixels (width.) I've had good luck w/that setting and I am hoping that you would too.
No offense intended, and certainly no apology necessary.
Good write up, Man!! :)

I'll redo it that way then. Thanks for the heads up!

C-Bass

01-12-2007, 05:22 PM

Now you have to manuever the mount out. This part took longer than the entire first half.[/IMG]

Jesus, haha. Understatement of the year. I ended up having to pry mine out, lol. Fortunately it's easier to put the AWR one in than it is to take the stock one out.

JimmyMac

01-25-2007, 06:13 PM

Nutari

01-25-2007, 06:28 PM

I was gonna do this today. But my MS3 wouldn't go up on the rhino ramps! My front bumper is too low!! The ramps might have been at a bad angle/slope. I'll clean out the drive port for a nice smooth flat surface and try again tomorrow...
I have the same ramps. Just shove them harder. They will lift the bumper just a little but its fine. You wont break anything.

C-Bass

01-25-2007, 06:52 PM

You wont break anything.

QFT, same deal for me. If it bothers you too much though, you could consider getting some 2x4's to lay down in front of the ramps to raise the front end up a hair before you actually drive onto the ramps.

JimmyMac

01-25-2007, 08:21 PM

QFT, same deal for me. If it bothers you too much though, you could consider getting some 2x4's to lay down in front of the ramps to raise the front end up a hair before you actually drive onto the ramps.

Nice.... good idea... I'll have to do that. Good thing I get off work early. I just have bad flash backs when I had my winning blue MZ3 and parked up tooo close to a high curb. SSssscrruuunch! What a gut wrenching sound that was... I don't wanna recreate that sound on this car... hehe...

Nutari

01-26-2007, 01:12 AM

Nice.... good idea... I'll have to do that. Good thing I get off work early. I just have bad flash backs when I had my winning blue MZ3 and parked up tooo close to a high curb. SSssscrruuunch! What a gut wrenching sound that was... I don't wanna recreate that sound on this car... hehe...
Let me know how it goes.

JimmyMac

01-26-2007, 05:34 PM

Well all is said and done. I ended up using 2x4's in front of the ramps and it helped clear the bumper. The stock mount actually came out not as hard as I was expecting it to. One thing I did to help make the AWR mount slip in easier was to smear a dab of dish soap on the red bushing on both sides. This let the mount slip in easier. But I got kinda lost during the install and was wondering why it would not line up. I think I pushed the engine up too high with the jack. So I took the jack out completely and pulled the engine down to line it up. I was surprised at how easy the engine moves around in there with just my hands!!

Anyways.. everything is in there just fine. I will say starting up the car and driving it around, you could feel a little more vibration. At idle it wasn't as bad as I thought it might be. It's just mainly when you slowly come off the clutch into 1st gear at a light. The engine actually feels more planted in the car now.

Well we should see what happens once the Xede gets here... :D Oh yeah.. I have the 70 duro version.

C-Bass

01-26-2007, 06:18 PM

Anyways.. everything is in there just fine. I will say starting up the car and driving it around, you could feel a little more vibration. At idle it wasn't as bad as I thought it might be. It's just mainly when you slowly come off the clutch into 1st gear at a light.

I put most of my driving miles in behind the wheel of my CRX, and drive the MS3 on weekends. Either that vibration dissapears or it is so liveable that even somebody who rarely drives the car won't notice it after a few trips to the movies. If the vibration bothers you, don't worry. It won't for long :)

JimmyMac

01-26-2007, 09:49 PM

I'm not worried. I have a 93 Miata. So when I drive the MS3, it feels like a luxury car.. haha.... I guess when I'm done soup'n up this car... I'll go back and work on my Miata again. I had a GReddy turbo kit on it with a few other mods. But the turbo started to leak oil into the intake recently. So I pulled it off. Now that car just sits in the yard rusting while I have fun in my MS3....

Nutari

01-26-2007, 10:48 PM

I barely felt any vibrations at all when I installed the mount. Only when my A/C was running it was noticeable.

Doesn't the shifting feel nice and 'crisp' now?

Rotus8

02-12-2007, 12:47 PM

I did this mod yesterday and have discoverd a way to make it MUCH easier.

First off, there is no need to support the tranny when the mount is removed. Without the mount things are quite stable.

Second, the three 19mm bolts shown in your 4th picture can be removed. These hold an adapter plate and with this plate out of the way, the old mount just slides out. Slide the new one in, put the plate back; no prying or shoving. Five bolts and you are done. It is helpful to start the threads in all five bolts before tightening any of them. At this point you might need to put a little upward pressure with a jack to line it up, but I found it unnecessary. The three 19mm bolts were pretty tight so torque them up well.

Thanks for the write-up and I hope this makes it easier for future implementers.

Nutari

02-12-2007, 02:52 PM

Rotus8

02-17-2007, 09:23 AM

So the only motor mount to get is for the rear on the Speed3? There is no front motor mount?
There are three mounts, one on each side and one at the back. The one at the back constrains the whole motor/trans package from rocking fore and aft. Replacing it with a stiffer mount really tightens up the whole car. The stock one is really loose.

There are reports of the others (left one I think) breaking when the car goes into severe wheel hop, I don't think it needs to be stiffer, just stronger. The stiffer rear mount will reduce wheel hop, possibly alleviating the problem.

Nutari

02-17-2007, 09:52 AM

There are three mounts, one on each side and one at the back. The one at the back constrains the whole motor/trans package from rocking fore and aft. Replacing it with a stiffer mount really tightens up the whole car. The stock one is really loose.

There are reports of the others (left one I think) breaking when the car goes into severe wheel hop, I don't think it needs to be stiffer, just stronger. The stiffer rear mount will reduce wheel hop, possibly alleviating the problem.
Only ONE report so far of the passenger side 'breaking'. No actual proof or pictures yet.

drivers side has three reports (one with pictures/proof) of the bolt backing out due to mazda forgetting to put loktite on the bolt.

Turd Ferguson

02-17-2007, 10:11 AM

No loktite? Thats .. thats.. totally unbelievable! What the hell were they thinking?

BSTD3

02-17-2007, 11:32 AM

No loktite? Thats .. thats.. totally unbelievable! What the hell were they thinking?

It's an oversized hat see, its funny! Sorry I had to with the name Turd Ferguson.. :p

Nutari

02-17-2007, 12:57 PM

It's an oversized hat see, its funny! Sorry I had to with the name Turd Ferguson.. :p
Oversized Hat.. funny.

no its not

Yeah it is.. its funny cause its uh.. bigger than a uh.. normal sized hat.
look at that hah

Will you get away

bbrich57

02-17-2007, 03:23 PM

Thanks for the advice! I'll add it to the main post.

Yeah, good advice.
I have the 70 durometer mount in the shop, but am waiting for some better weather to do it in. This should save some time and aggravation.
Thanks Rotus8!!
BTW, and off-topic: Would love to see some pics of the Lotus7?

zoom-zoomhatch

02-17-2007, 04:01 PM

Only ONE report so far of the passenger side 'breaking'. No actual proof or pictures yet.

drivers side has three reports (one with pictures/proof) of the bolt backing out due to mazda forgetting to put loktite on the bolt.

My passenger side mount broke yesterday, and I already have the awr rear mount installed, it snapped right in front of the rubber part and I'll try to get some pictures.

Ferdball

02-17-2007, 04:11 PM

My passenger side mount broke yesterday, and I already have the awr rear mount installed, it snapped right in front of the rubber part and I'll try to get some pictures.

Thanks for keeping stats, Nutari.

Sorry to hear that, ZZH.

So, Speed3 owners? What are we to do? I'm already driving like a grandma.

Rotus8

02-18-2007, 12:32 AM

Thanks Rotus8!!
BTW, and off-topic: Would love to see some pics of the Lotus7?
[/color][/size][/font]
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123652792&page=3
Post #81

flyrevs

02-19-2007, 12:56 PM

My passenger side mount broke yesterday, and I already have the awr rear mount installed, it snapped right in front of the rubber part and I'll try to get some pictures. Hey I really hope they don't notice your AWR mount and try to blame the AWR mount as the cause of your busted front mount. Do you think they would try to put the blame on the AWR mount if they noticed it ?

WagonMan

02-19-2007, 01:07 PM

Hey I really hope they don't notice your AWR mount and try to blame the AWR mount as the cause of your busted front mount. Do you think they would try to put the blame on the AWR mount if they noticed it ?
I would say yes they will blame the AWR mount and yes they will notice it.

And I think it will be tough to argue that the AWR mount did not place additional stress on the other mounts. There is no question that one stiffer mount will place additional stress on the others.

I'm not saying the other mounts should break due to that additonal stress (they should be stronger then that), just noting the fact.

As well you can bet they will be taking a close look at all the mounts, so the AWR will stand out.

zoom-zoomhatch

02-19-2007, 02:02 PM

I hope they don't try to pull some crap like that, it actaully never crossed my mind till now sadly. I've heard of this mount breaking at least once before somewhere so hopefully they'll just rule that it needs to be replaced with a stronger piece and be done with it.

flyrevs

02-19-2007, 05:39 PM

Ferdball

02-19-2007, 06:50 PM

Put the stock rear mount back in only takes 20 min or so. (boom02)
Not if the rear mount is now bearing a load.

zoom-zoomhatch

02-22-2007, 11:58 AM

Actually I had to put the stock one back in because the awr is also broken after I got the other mount fixed.

Ferdball

02-22-2007, 12:05 PM

So, did they have a problem with the AWR mount installed? Was there any other damage to the car?

zoom-zoomhatch

02-22-2007, 02:01 PM

They didn't give me any problems over it, they fixed what they needed to fix and the only thing they wouldn't do for free is put the stock mount on in place of the busted awr, which wasn't hard anyway.

nondual

02-23-2007, 12:25 PM

Stupid noob question alert:

You DO have to loktite everything when you bolt the new one back on, yes?

Nutari

02-23-2007, 12:29 PM

Stupid noob question alert:

You DO have to loktite everything when you bolt the new one back on, yes?
Yup. Did I forget to mention that? Doh!

1st post updated.

JimmyMac

02-23-2007, 10:49 PM

Haha... I forgot to loctite mine.. But they haven't moved a bit. I did mark them so I'd know if they backed off or not..

red99pro

02-24-2007, 11:45 PM

ive read reviews that mention newer MM makes more vibration, and also less vibration. im guessing stiffer ones make more(like the 88), and the softer ones make less(like 70).

slikshoes

02-25-2007, 10:13 AM

What Torque did you guys set each bolt to? Thanks in advance.

Nutari

02-25-2007, 06:58 PM

What Torque did you guys set each bolt to? Thanks in advance.
No torque wrench yet. Just go as tight as you can get it. just the way I like my women..

redms3gt

02-27-2007, 11:22 PM

They were about 60-70 on the mount to take them off and about 80-90 on the bracket on the trans. These are just an est. I just tried to put em on slightly tigher then they came off.

bbrich57

02-28-2007, 11:57 AM

BTW: For those that haven't seen or don't know the differences between the mounts, here is a picture highlighting them.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l110/bbrich57/Virgin1/IMG_0706W.jpg

It looks like they take a std OEM mount bracket and welded in new metal for the smaller diameter bushing. Then installed the smaller, solid polypropylene bushing followed by the metal insert.

I installed mine easily. No problems @ all. The engine and trans assm hung nicely w/o any mount at all in place. I was able to lever out the old mount w/a large screwdriver and push the eng assm forward w/my hand.
The new bushing was a bit tougher. It's smaller, stiffer makeup made it more difficult to wedge back in, but it still was not that hard.
20mins wheels up to wheels down on a gravel driveway. Not bad, IMO.

ch77

03-06-2007, 04:23 PM

Thanks for posting this how-to! I will be doing this with my mechanic as soon as my mounts come in.

bbrich57

03-06-2007, 05:21 PM

Dude! Don't waste your money. This is so easy that even a non-mechanical person should be able to do it.

Rotus8

03-07-2007, 12:38 AM

I got my service manual and the two bolts on the mount itself should be torqued to 68.7 to 85.9 ft-lb. The three bolts holding the bracket to the transmission have the same spec.

C'ville

03-07-2007, 09:04 AM

Thanks Rotus8, I've been waiting on my manual to get these torque specs. before I put mine on.
Your number(first)

I got my service manual and the two bolts on the mount itself should be torqued to 68.7 to 85.9 ft-lb. The three bolts holding the bracket to the transmission have the same spec.

ch77

03-08-2007, 11:27 AM

bbrich57

03-08-2007, 02:42 PM

Sure, bbrich (by the way I really like your car) but I don't have a jack & jackstands, or ramps to drive the car up. Also, my garage is not at all level - frostheave years before we bought the house. My mechanic will end up charging about $30 for it, so that's worth it to me.

Thanks for the kudos, ch77. I have put a lot of myself into it, and w/a wife that doesn't always understand it's been hard just doing what I've done sometimes.
That's too bad that you don't have a place to do it, but I understand.
If it'll make you feel any better, I don't even have a garage and my driveway is what they call "calechi" here, which is really just a limestone sand/gravel/stone mix. Them rocks is SHARP, Man!!!
I did mine in the drive using a homemade pair of ramps (2"x6's and solid cement blocks.) 'Very sturdy, as long as you drive up on the blocks all the way.

Aloha808

03-10-2007, 02:53 AM

I just got my motor mount today hopeful tomorrow i can put it on and let u guys know what happened

ch77

03-14-2007, 12:18 PM

Took my mechanic 20 minutes; he said it was the easiest thing he's ever done. Of course, he's got a lift, and every tool he could need handy. Actually cost me only $25 to have it mounted.

What a difference it makes, especially with the TWM shifter base bushings - that I did myself in an hour. The car is just much easier to shift and toss at curvy roads..

Anyway, this tutorial definitely helped us out.

BlackJack

03-18-2007, 11:25 PM

Quick question: About the vibrations you guys keep saying, any way to get rid of them? Just loktite the whole thing real good before bolting it in?

MadOzodi

03-18-2007, 11:31 PM

I noticed the 3 19mm bolts holding the bracket in place did not show any residual loctite once I removed them; only the 2 17mm bolts showed any. So I made sure to loctite all 5 when I installed the new AWR mount. The vibrations are not caused by loose bolts. They are caused by the stiffer material used in the bushing for the mount.

If you don't want vibration, I'd suggest you only use the TWM shifter base bushings. I don't have them myself, but would imagine they help. It's amazing how much the engine moves when the tranny mount is off...you can wiggle the bejezus outta the engine!

BlackJack

03-19-2007, 12:31 AM

But what if I install the mount AND the new shift bushings?

Would that help with the vibration along with the "stiffen your Mazda 3 shifter - for $4" mod?

Nutari

03-19-2007, 12:33 AM

But what if I install the mount AND the new shift bushings?

Would that help with the vibration along with the "stiffen your Mazda 3 shifter - for $4" mod?
uh... if you did the 'stiffen your shifter' thing.. you cant put in the new bushings because you just epoxied them in there.

BlackJack

03-19-2007, 09:58 AM

I didn't do it yet, per se....I'm just wondering of ways to reduce the vibration.

Would it be better to do this engine mount or just epoxy the air space on the old mount?

knowledge007

03-19-2007, 10:25 AM

Rotus8

03-19-2007, 12:37 PM

I have the 88 and there is little vibration during idle and a slight inhance when the a/c is kicked on, but I can live with it considering all my mods and the turbo back soon be installed. Is a short shifter worth it guys, or would I be better off with just changing out my bushings to steel or aluminum???
AFAIK there is no short shifter for the speed3, at least not yet. You could do this: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123661188

Nutari

03-19-2007, 12:50 PM

I didn't do it yet, per se....I'm just wondering of ways to reduce the vibration.

Would it be better to do this engine mount or just epoxy the air space on the old mount?
I have both. The mount and the shifter bushings. Feels awesome together.

bbrich57

03-19-2007, 03:30 PM

Quick question: About the vibrations you guys keep saying, any way to get rid of them? Just loktite the whole thing real good before bolting it in?

Yeah! Go back to the stock mount. Thread locker (Loctite) won't do it. The smaller size of the bushing, the lack of air gaps in it and it's stiffness of the material is what does it.
I would like to see AWR make a 60D (+/-) mount for most of us, but I can live w/the 70. It's buzzy, but solid.
The 88D must be ridiculous for the street, IMHO.

BlackJack

03-19-2007, 04:12 PM

Well, I know Street Unit is currently making one so I am keeping my eye on their website. I keep hearing that their mount will be smaller than the AWR mounts.

EDIT: their website states 62A bushings. If that is true, I will be waiting for that!

bbrich57

03-19-2007, 04:28 PM

Smaller? That's liable to make it even stiffer yet? Using 62D material (Polyurethane) will only help if the bushing is the same size or larger than the AWR... unless the are talking about an overall rating, but I doubt it.

knowledge007

03-19-2007, 04:43 PM

Yeah! Go back to the stock mount. Thread locker (Loctite) won't do it. The smaller size of the bushing, the lack of air gaps in it and it's stiffness of the material is what does it.
I would like to see AWR make a 60D (+/-) mount for most of us, but I can live w/the 70. It's buzzy, but solid.
The 88D must be ridiculous for the street, IMHO.

Its cool, I can live with it...well see after I install my turbo back... see if I should go to the 70 or not...

MadOzodi

03-19-2007, 07:09 PM

IMO, the downside to the 70A AWR mount is more than outweighed by the goodside. So there's some vibe at idle, no biggy. For increased performance, you have to sacrifice a little comfort.

bbrich57

03-19-2007, 07:19 PM

Oh, I don't disagree w/you. Sometimes I like the primitive feel the car has now, but most ppl wouldn't understand. My wife, my mother and others who might ride w/me, for example.
And for day-to-day/every day driving is there really a need to have to put up w/the bad?
The truth be told, I gave up a slight vibration @ 50-55 MPH in the stock mount, 1) for a kick whenever I start the car, 2) steering wheel/body vibration @ idle and stoplights, and 3) generally more noise transmitted to the interior from the drivetrain.
Only crazy ppl, like us car nuts, would be able to appreciate all that.

MadOzodi

03-19-2007, 08:49 PM

What's great is that it's so gosh darn easy to put the stock mount back. Like I'll prolly do when I drive to Chicago to visit my bro. in June.

knowledge007

03-24-2007, 01:03 AM

I went over this thread real quick and I see some of u guys are already talking smack.

I just finish installing the MS-CAI I did it a little over a hour. I'm about to do the mounts then I will read all of ya'lls bitchin' :)

All I have to say to that is you are way behind...

Tjay

03-24-2007, 02:43 AM

All I have to say to that is you are way behind...

Sorry guy. I posted in the wrong thread.

Nikolai

03-29-2007, 06:45 PM

I would say yes they will blame the AWR mount and yes they will notice it.

And I think it will be tough to argue that the AWR mount did not place additional stress on the other mounts. There is no question that one stiffer mount will place additional stress on the others.

I'm not saying the other mounts should break due to that additonal stress (they should be stronger then that), just noting the fact.

As well you can bet they will be taking a close look at all the mounts, so the AWR will stand out.

The rear mount would more accurately be called a torque mount. For the same reason you don't need to jack up the engine when you replace the mount, a stiffer torque mount would not put other (weight-bearing) mounts under significantly more stress.