NEEDED: how to install a boost gauge in a ms3

[Nutari]

please? I bought a Autometer boost gauge.. it came with wiring but no vaccum tubing or anything. I need to know what to buy to get this thing working.

thank you!

------------------------------------------------------------------------

next up.. a turbo timer.

[Nutari]

anyone?

[cable43]

a hole.... rub it in why don't you

i'll keep an eye out

ask Juan @ highboost

[orlandomsp]

You can buy a tubing kit from 42draftdesigns.com, they have them for stewart warner gauges. I doubt there's a difference between the fittings.

Edit: Here you go, maybe someone else can verify if it will work with your setup. (peep)

http://42draftdesigns.com/product/42150851.htm (http://42draftdesigns.com/product/42150851.htm)

[Nutari]

You can buy a tubing kit from 42draftdesigns.com, they have them for stewart warner gauges. I doubt there's a difference between the fittings.

Edit: Here you go, maybe someone else can verify if it will work with your setup. (peep)

http://42draftdesigns.com/product/42150851.htm (http://42draftdesigns.com/product/42150851.htm)
thank you and I'll try to talk to juan also.

[mdl247]

check napa thats where i bought my vaccum lines for runing my boost gauge on my msp. they also got fittings if you need that would probably work or go to checkers and talk to cherry she would know also since she still has her turbo civic.

[Nutari]

check napa thats where i bought my vaccum lines for runing my boost gauge on my msp. they also got fittings if you need that would probably work or go to checkers and talk to cherry she would know also since she still has her turbo civic.
doh.. too late. I bought it from those 42draftdesigns guys.

only like $15. I just need to figure out how to install it now. Where to I tap to get a boost source?

[mdl247]

one of the easiest ways is to tee off before the stock bov. thats what i did until i found someone had it at another place then i moved it.

[CTGrey02]

Just make sure theres no leaks around the Tee. I ended up zip tieing all the rubber hoses to the vacuum lines/tee on mine. I'm shocked that the gauge didnt come with the line. Mine did back in 2003.

[Nutari]

Just make sure theres no leaks around the Tee. I ended up zip tieing all the rubber hoses to the vacuum lines/tee on mine. I'm shocked that the gauge didnt come with the line. Mine did back in 2003.
I bought it used. Can someone point out where to install it on this picture?

[910MSPRacer]

try this and tell me if it works

[Nutari]

try this and tell me if it works
What do you mean 'route back to the intake manifold?" dont I just splice into that?

[PRO 5]

Yeah that line pointed out in the pic is the vacuum line to the bpv. It should do the trick. Just tee off that line and you're golden.



Dave

[Nutari]

Yeah that line pointed out in the pic is the vacuum line to the bpv. It should do the trick. Just tee off that line and you're golden.



Dave
Thanks Dave!

[910MSPRacer]

i meant splice in that line and route it back that direction. i zip tied mine to that line to keep it out the way

[benzo]

Did you get it working yet?

[Nutari]

Did you get it working yet?
waiting for parts to come in..

[Nutari]

got the boost gauge kit from 42 draft designs.

ok.. the tubing is really small. I dont think it goes where you guys thought it did.

first two are without the cover .

third is where I 'think' it should go

last is the difference between the tubing and where you guys said it should go..

[pluto316]

(peep)

[k-lea]

being all mean to me..

[benzo]

Shouldnt you t-off a line closest to the waste gate. That way you know exactly what the waste gate is getting. But I know shiznit....

[Nutari]

cant I just use this? Would make life much easier.. is it a vacuum source?

[Vermilion]

I'd honestly use the line coming off the BPV. Thats how I did it on my STi.

[Nutari]

cant I just use this? Would make life much easier.. is it a vacuum source?
ok.. that is NOT a vacuum source. ghetto rigged it onto the line everyone said to.

boosts 10 in 1st and 2nd.. hits 14-15 in 3rd and 4th.. not sure about 5th cause I had to watch the road and not the gauge.

took everything off now.. need to hook it up right. I am NOT doing anything half assed on this car.. no zip ties.

[k-lea]

Are you making fun of my zip ties?!@#

[Nutari]

Are you making fun of my zip ties?!@#
nah.. I kinda ghetto rigged everything in the p5. I swore this car is going all top of the line.. in fact.. this Autometer gauge is going as soon as I have enough saved up for a full DEFI set...

[k-lea]

nah.. I kinda ghetto rigged everything in the p5. I swore this car is going all top of the line.. in fact.. this Autometer gauge is going as soon as I have enough saved up for a full DEFI set...
I have Defi, be jealous. ;p

[Nutari]

I have Defi, be jealous. ;p
pictures?

[k-lea]

I don't have any pictures of it setup (all). I have pictures when I took apart the interior to find a place for the unit to go. The boost gauge is being worked on. Trying to make it look a little better, just kinda slapped it in there and never thought about making it look any better.

It already looks different than it does in the picture. I put the vent ring around it and it's looks much better. Still needs some minor adjustments.

With this new job I'll be getting all the other gauges soon. ;p

PS: Uploaded most recent picture with the ring around it.

[Nutari]

I don't have any pictures of it setup (all). I have pictures when I took apart the interior to find a place for the unit to go. The boost gauge is being worked on. Trying to make it look a little better, just kinda slapped it in there and never thought about making it look any better.

It already looks different than it does in the picture. I put the vent ring around it and it's looks much better. Still needs some minor adjustments.
very nice.. are they bright at night?

[k-lea]

very nice.. are they bright at night?

You can adjust the brightness with the unit.

[Nutari]

You can adjust the brightness with the unit.
oh shit.. im sold. (ughdance)

[k-lea]

oh shit.. im sold. (ughdance)
ALSO you can hit the peak button to see your peak boost.

AND you can record runs and replay them. ;p

[orlandomsp]

Try and find another vaccum source on the intake manifold. The 42dd tubing is much easier to install if it's warmed up a bit. Disconnect the line off of the BPV and see what the ID is, the tubing kit might work.

[Nutari]

Try and find another vaccum source on the intake manifold. The 42dd tubing is much easier to install if it's warmed up a bit. Disconnect the line off of the BPV and see what the ID is, the tubing kit might work.
it works.. just.. with zipties.. the hose going to the BPV is almost twice the size of the gauge hose.

[Vermilion]

There is nothing wrong with zip ties. What are ya gonna do? Go special order the smallest hose clamps in the world? LOL

I've had zip ties on my STi for 1 1/2 years on my T connection and NEVER had a problem.

[benzo]

Zip Ties Rule!!!!!

[Nutari]

Are these plug and play or is there tons of wiring involved?

[benzo]

Tons of wires RULE!!!!!!

[mdl247]

Are these plug and play or is there tons of wiring involved?

not so much of tons of wires. if i can recall correctly 4 wires i think it was. ground, constant, 1 goes to e brake negative, and one on the ignition wire.

[ssinstaller]

Try and find another vaccum source on the intake manifold. The 42dd tubing is much easier to install if it's warmed up a bit. Disconnect the line off of the BPV and see what the ID is, the tubing kit might work.

There are only two lines you can tap for boost, the line coming directly off the turbo, or the line running to the stock BOV. Unfortunatly mazda decided to make every other damn line on the motor a hardline.


Are these plug and play or is there tons of wiring involved?

You don't need a turbo timer the K04 is oil and water cooled.

[Nutari]

There are only two lines you can tap for boost, the line coming directly off the turbo, or the line running to the stock BOV. Unfortunatly mazda decided to make every other damn line on the motor a hardline.




You don't need a turbo timer the K04 is oil and water cooled.
yup.. reading up on that now. Thanks again.

[mdl247]

You don't need a turbo timer the K04 is oil and water cooled.[/quote]

so are the msp's but everyone still suggests a turbo timer due to the fact of oil sludge build up in the oil lines that goes to the turbo.
well so i was left to believe(uhm).

[voiceKoil]

Kudos to ZipTies!!!!!!

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2497000-2497999/2497424_33_full.jpg

[speed3_813]

You don't need a turbo timer the K04 is oil and water cooled. so are the msp's but everyone still suggests a turbo timer due to the fact of oil sludge build up in the oil lines that goes to the turbo.
well so i was left to believe


The MSProtege has a Garrett T25 not a K04.

[mdl247]

The MSProtege has a Garrett T25 not a K04.

i know that but if you read the post i was referring to it just said the k04 is water and oil cooled which is same as the garrett, so i was just stating what the other people told me. there was nothing much else implied just what turbo and that its water and oil cooled.(enguard)

[speed3_813]

i know that but if you read the post i was referring to it just said the k04 is water and oil cooled which is same as the garrett, so i was just stating what the other people told me. there was nothing much else implied just what turbo and that its water and oil cooled.(enguard)

Then with that statement you are correct. My bad.(first)

[zoom-zoomhatch]

Where is everyone mounting the boost gauges anyway? I can't really find a place that it doesn't look just thrown in somewhere.

[clos561]

Where is everyone mounting the boost gauges anyway? I can't really find a place that it doesn't look just thrown in somewhere.
im proly gona mount when i get one on the windshield, buy 2 of those suckers and make a mount for it or put it right on the shifter lol

[speed3_813]

Get a single pod and put it on the A-pillar.

[Vermilion]

I'm probably putting mine behind the steering wheel on that cover.

[borderline]

Get a single pod and put it on the A-pillar.

I won't do that, MS3 have side air bag located in that A-pillar. This make things more complicated for us, MS3 owner's (pissed)

[clos561]

put it on the shifter..

[borderline]

put it on the shifter..
(braindead (braindead

[Nutari]

(braindead (braindead
yeah.. he makes stupid posts everywhere he goes. Im hoping he gets banned for being a dumb ass soon.

[zoom-zoomhatch]

I've seen people mount boost gauges behind the steering wheel like on top of the black cover on the back in front of the speedo, but how much of the speedo does it block? How about rigging something up like the miatas and del slos and mounting it in one of the roundish ac vents?

[Vermilion]

I've seen people mount boost gauges behind the steering wheel like on top of the black cover on the back in front of the speedo, but how much of the speedo does it block? How about rigging something up like the miatas and del slos and mounting it in one of the roundish ac vents?

I had mine 60mm Defi BF Amber boost gauge mounted on my steering wheel column on my STi.. I plan to do the same thing with my MS3.

Heres a pic of the gauge on my STi. This a pic taken above what you'd normally see. It ended up only blocking out 0-20 mph and the mileage which I could live with just fine. With the MS3's different cluster I will probably put it over on the left side as I don't wanna block the fuel gauge or anything. I'll have to see how and where i'm gonna mount it when I get my gauge for Christmas :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v394/FI_Hate/105_0520Small.jpg

[borderline]

Vermilion, You own a STI and a MS3?
Which one is faster on a 0-60? and what about top speed?

[Vermilion]

I sold the 05 STi for the 07 MS3. Most will call me crazy but, I needed something more comfortable, cheaper monthly payments, etc.

The STi wins in Power and Handling but, thats where it ends. It has a LOT of road noise and every bump feels like a foot deep pothole.

I only had intake, exhaust, and cobb accessport on the STi.. probably the same thing i'll end up doing to the MS3.

[quiet desperado]

I had mine 60mm Defi BF Amber boost gauge mounted on my steering wheel column on my STi.. I plan to do the same thing with my MS3.

Heres a pic of the gauge on my STi. This a pic taken above what you'd normally see. It ended up only blocking out 0-20 mph and the mileage which I could live with just fine. With the MS3's different cluster I will probably put it over on the left side as I don't wanna block the fuel gauge or anything. I'll have to see how and where i'm gonna mount it when I get my gauge for Christmas :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v394/FI_Hate/105_0520Small.jpg

Which gauge are you getting? Or is it gonna be a surprise? (Right, like we would really leave it to a spouse/gf to make such an important decision.) I was looking at the Defi Blue Racer since the blue would match the background lighting on the rest of the gauges. But the amber in your picture looks more red than orange and might come close to the red on the faces of the gauges. I was thinking I'd wait until next year but seeing your pic has me fired up to do it now.

It looks like the gauge could be mounted a little to the left of where your gauge was. There it would block just the seatbelt and battery lights and part of the trip meter, but nothing else. Especially with the 52mm Blue Racers. Is that the stock pod or did you buy it separately?

[Vermilion]

Which gauge are you getting? Or is it gonna be a surprise? (Right, like we would really leave it to a spouse/gf to make such an important decision.) I was looking at the Defi Blue Racer since the blue would match the background lighting on the rest of the gauges. But the amber in your picture looks more red than orange and might come close to the red on the faces of the gauges. I was thinking I'd wait until next year but seeing your pic has me fired up to do it now.

It looks like the gauge could be mounted a little to the left of where your gauge was. There it would block just the seatbelt and battery lights and part of the trip meter, but nothing else. Especially with the 52mm Blue Racers. Is that the stock pod or did you buy it separately?

Ah, i'm getting a 52mm Blue Racer Boost gauge. I love Defi's gauges and doubt I could ever own anything else. The only reason I wouldn't go with the BF Amber gauge is they are 200+ dollar AND you have to have the Control Unit II which is like another 120. Unless you PLAN on adding more gauges like EGT, Oil Temp, and Oil pressure.. I don't think its worth it. I had planned on and even bought the other 3 gauges but, never installed em. The Blue Racer doesn't require the control unit that the others do so its cheaper already.

Yeah i'm still not sure where I want to mount it. When I get the gauge in my hands and the mounting kit and all then I will have a better idea of where it would best be placed at. I honestly don't think the Blue Racer gauges will match as well as the BF Ambers but, I can live with it since i'm saving 150 bucks or so. I will be sure to start my own thread when I get the gauge and get time to hook it up.

[quiet desperado]

Ah, i'm getting a 52mm Blue Racer Boost gauge. I love Defi's gauges and doubt I could ever own anything else. ....

Yeah i'm still not sure where I want to mount it. When I get the gauge in my hands and the mounting kit and all then I will have a better idea of where it would best be placed at. I honestly don't think the Blue Racer gauges will match as well as the BF Ambers but, I can live with it since i'm saving 150 bucks or so. I will be sure to start my own thread when I get the gauge and get time to hook it up.

Great, I've decided my wife's getting me the Blues for Christmas also (hey, isn't there a Christmas song with that title?), so I'll look forward to seeing what you do. So, that's the stock mount for the AF Ambers? If so and it's the same for Blues, I'll be happy with it.

[Vermilion]

I ordered the Blue Racer Boost Gauge and Defi Mounting Kit for mine. The gauges afaik don't come with the mounting kit. Its only like 12 dollars more.

You CAN get the little sun visor like i had on the Subie.. but, I think i'm gonna try the Blue Racer without it. Plus I don't even think they make a 52mm sun visor.

[quiet desperado]

I ordered the Blue Racer Boost Gauge and Defi Mounting Kit for mine. The gauges afaik don't come with the mounting kit. Its only like 12 dollars more.

You CAN get the little sun visor like i had on the Subie.. but, I think i'm gonna try the Blue Racer without it. Plus I don't even think they make a 52mm sun visor.

Most of the product descriptions say a plastic pod is included which I think is this:

http://superstreetonline.com/techarticles/130_0610_13_z+1995_nissan_skyline_gtr+gauge_mounti ng.jpg

Not bad looking if it's in an inconspicuous location, but I'll probably look for something to upgrade to eventually.

[quiet desperado]

So, took the plastic shield off the IC and the heat shield off at the back of the engine bay. I can't see any line to tap into except the one going to the BOV.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=95655

Looks thick so I'll have to get a tee that fits. Anybody know what the ID is on the BOV line?

As far as sending the wires through the firewall, it's really tight back there. The only holes I could see were the ones for the heating and cooling lines. Looking back the other way, I could see only the hole where the hood release cable goes through. Could see where it comes out into the engine compartment. I don't know where the wiring harness goes through and will have to take another look tomorrow. Got to go to Christmas dinner at the in-laws.

[redms3gt]

best way I could se was take out glove box and lower dash and run it through the main wireing harness. I looked a lot it seems to be the easiest. Plus you gotta run the wires through the dash to get to the gauges somehow. Only issue is the harness is on the passenger side of the car and the BOV is on the drivers side. I ran the line behind the heatsheild toward the brake booster and then towards the bov. A little more work but it hides everything nicely.

[quiet desperado]

best way I could se was take out glove box and lower dash and run it through the main wireing harness. I looked a lot it seems to be the easiest. Plus you gotta run the wires through the dash to get to the gauges somehow. Only issue is the harness is on the passenger side of the car and the BOV is on the drivers side. I ran the line behind the heatsheild toward the brake booster and then towards the bov. A little more work but it hides everything nicely.

Great, thanks! I'll take a look at doing it that way.

[quiet desperado]

Great, thanks! I'll take a look at doing it that way.
Finally got my boost gauge in. I post some pix later. Boy, the first time doing something sure takes a long time. Looks pretty good mounted right b/t the speedo and the right-hand nacelle with the trip meter, etc., still fully visible.

Anyhow, big ole fat newb question. Did I mis-wire something or does the boost gauge normally spend a lot of its time in negative territory? I get the expected boost readings under hard acceleration, but I was expecting the needle to typically be going up and down from zero to whatever the permitted boost is. I assume that it goes to -30 for a reason, but I'm just a little surprised to get such crappy gas mileage when I'm apparently not on boost nearly as much as I thought!

[Vermilion]

Your boost gauge runs in the "negatives" because the its pulling vacuum even while idle. If you sit at idle and tap the gas or even rev it to revline it should only pop up to ZERO because the turbo doesn't pull boost when the car isn't under way or under load.

[quiet desperado]

Your boost gauge runs in the "negatives" because the its pulling vacuum even while idle. If you sit at idle and tap the gas or even rev it to revline it should only pop up to ZERO because the turbo doesn't pull boost when the car isn't under way or under load.

Yeah, it does pop right under load. Plus there's a diagnostic cycle to tell you if it's mis-wired and it's not telling me that. I'm enjoying watching the show and finally seeing what's going in boost-wise.

How's your install going? Going on 3 weeks since Christmas now. Since you have a previous install under your belt, I had been hoping you'd get yours done first and post to save me some hassle.

[Vermilion]

Yeah, it does pop right under load. Plus there's a diagnostic cycle to tell you if it's mis-wired and it's not telling me that. I'm enjoying watching the show and finally seeing what's going in boost-wise.

How's your install going? Going on 3 weeks since Christmas now. Since you have a previous install under your belt, I had been hoping you'd get yours done first and post to save me some hassle.

LOL I haven't even started yet. I'm going to throw a aftermarket BOV on my car first and then do the boost gauge probably. Where did you tap into for ignition, illumination, power, and ground? (my subaru was easy as the dash clock had all 4 wires right there in one little harness)

[redms3gt]

I just got the boost/vacuum combo to work perfect. No pops. no flutter. no noise. Its mechanical also. I had to take a small piece of a plastic peg a little bigger than the size of the line. The silicon one. This basically block the signal to the gauge. Then I drilled about a 1/32" hole through it. I also have a section of 5/16 hose to add some volume to the line after this so without this larger hose for a buffer you might have to drill smaller. Its Super smooth now. Just a touch of lag. 1th or 2 of a second but rock steady. Still reacts fast enough to show the spikes. I have a separate vacuum and boost gauge and the transition between vacuum and boost on the vacuum would make a buzz on the metal peg. Gone now. I would suggest this to anyone having this issue with any boost gauge. I think some electric gauges might smooth this out though so it would not be nessassary. I was getten so fed up with the noise I was gonna sell them and get electric but problem solved. Only time you go notice the lag is going from full boost to full vacuum. as this is basically instant with the BOV. I cannot notice any lag under boost as boost pressure comes up slower.

[quiet desperado]

LOL I haven't even started yet. I'm going to throw a aftermarket BOV on my car first and then do the boost gauge probably. Where did you tap into for ignition, illumination, power, and ground? (my subaru was easy as the dash clock had all 4 wires right there in one little harness)

I tapped in at the fuse box using Add-a-Circuits from Autozone. Pretty cool. It's a fuse-type unit with two fuse slots and a line out with a crimp-on connector. You pull the fuse out of the circuit you want to use and plug it into one of the fuse slots on the unit. Then you put in a fuse for your new circuit, attach your wire with the connector, and plug the unit right back into the fuse slot.

I don't know if it's optimal but I used the cigarette lighter fuse for ignition, the brake light for power and the instrument panel for illumination. Ground went to an existing ground behind the plastic panel on the upright at the front of the driver's door opening. It works fine but you turn the gauge on twice every time: once when you turn on the ignition and again when you start the engine. Next step is finding a circuit that gets power from the battery even when the starter is turning over.

As far as going through the firewall, I went a little crazy and decided to feed the sensor line through the rubber boot that the hood release cable goes through. It wasn't easy b/c it's a very tight fit. Eventually I realized I needed to: 1) detach the cable at both ends, 2) pull it about one foot farther into the passenger compartment, and 3) pull the rubber boot out of the firewall. Then I was able pull the sensor wire coupling through the boot and the hole in the firewall with a coat hanger and reinstall the boot and cable.

Good luck with your install. It has to go more smoothly than mine. Of course, now I could do it about one hour.

[Vermilion]

I tapped in at the fuse box using Add-a-Circuits from Autozone. Pretty cool. it's a fuse-type unit with two fuse slots and a line out with a crimp-on connector. You pull the fuse out of the circuit you want to use and plug it into one of the fuse slots on the unit. Then you put in a fuse for your new circuit, attach your wire to the connector, and plug the unit right back into the fuse slot.

I don't know if it's optimal but I used the cigarette lighter fuse for ignition, the brake light for power and the instrument panel for illumination. Ground went to an existing ground behind the plastic panel on the upright that's at the front of the driver's door opening. It works fine but you turn the gauge on twice every time: once when you turn on the ignition and again when you start the engine. Next step is to find a circuit that gets power from the battery even when the starter is turning over.

As far as going through the firewall, I went a little crazy and fed the sensor line through the rubber boot that the hood release cable goes through. It wasn't easy. Eventually I realized I needed to: 1) detach the cable at both ends, 2) pull it about one foot farther into the passenger compartment, and 3) pull the rubber boot out of the firewall. Then I was able pull the sensor wire coupling through the boot with a coat hanger and reinstall the boot and cable.

Good luck with your install. It has to go more smoothly than mine. Of course, now I could do it about one hour.

Where'd you mount your sensor? Inside the car or inside the engine bay?

[quiet desperado]

Where'd you mount your sensor? Inside the car or inside the engine bay?

In the engine bay attached to the front side of battery box using the hole for a grey attachment thingy that secures a battery cable inside the box. The cable seems to hang fine without being attached.

In case you're thinking about tapping into wires instead of the fuse box, I got this from a thread on installing Defi BF gauges:

Blue/Red stripe = constant voltage, comes from battery

Orange = switched voltage, comes from ignition

Black/Yellow stripe = variable voltage, controlled by dimmer switch

Defi BF wires should be connected is this manner:

RED ----> Blue/Red stripe
Orange ---> Orange
White ---> Black Yellow stripe
Black ---> grounded to radio chassis, or other location of your choice.

[Vermilion]

In the engine bay attached to the front side of battery box using the hole for a grey attachment thingy that secures a battery cable inside the box. The cable seems to hang fine without being attached.

In case you're thinking about tapping into wires instead of the fuse box, I got this from a thread on installing Defi BF gauges:

Blue/Red stripe = constant voltage, comes from battery

Orange = switched voltage, comes from ignition

Black/Yellow stripe = variable voltage, controlled by dimmer switch

Defi BF wires should be connected is this manner:

RED ----> Blue/Red stripe
Orange ---> Orange
White ---> Black Yellow stripe
Black ---> grounded to radio chassis, or other location of your choice.


Thanks man. I can handle almost every mod but, I hate messing with wires and electronics lol. Not that i'm gonna shock myself to death (yes I know remove battery cables) its that i'm not gonna get a good connection or its kinda make the horn blow when I flip on my high beams LOL.

[Vermilion]

Wheres those pics at! :D :D :D

I need some motivation to get my ass out and do it :)

[redms3gt]

Here some action footage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ox3oQXLaaoA

[quiet desperado]

Wheres those pics at! :D :D :D

I need some motivation to get my ass out and do it :)
I'll get some up tomorrow. The sticky tape mount sucks and is already coming up. I think I'll try some velcro.

[desperado-c]

Okay, I know I promised this awhile ago, but things have been a little crazy. FWIW, here's my step-by-step install of the Defi Blue Racer Electronic Boost Gauge.

A. Installing the Sensor Wire

The biggest issue is getting through the firewall. After looking around from the inside, I decided to go through the grommet that the hood release cable goes through. Since it's just a sensor wire and and not vacuum hose, the grommet is big enough. Here's the view from inside near the clutch pedal mount:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/fwinside.jpg

Here's the view from the engine bay, in behind the driver's side shock tower:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/fwengine.jpg

1. Space is very tight inside where the grommet is. So, to get better access to the grommet, I freed up both ends of the hood release cable. It's pretty easy to see how to do this if you just look at how they're attached. The end attached to the hood latch just pops right out, but then you have to manuever it around to get it free. There also two clips attaching it to the engine bay near the top of the radiator. You can just pop it out of those clips. Inside, it's just a matter of pulling the hood release handle and rotating the cable end up to where it will slide out. With the cable loose, you can now pull it into the cabin about 1 foot further than it is when installed. You can now pull the grommet out of the firewall and into the cabin, too. I think I ended up pushing it in from the engine side with big screwdriver (careful not to tear it).

2. Next I took the small blue coupling that attaches the sensor wire to the boost gauge and feed it through the firewall into the cabin. I attached it to a coat hanger since it's kind of far back and hard to reach.

3. The next part takes a little patience since the grommet opening is kind of tight. To get the coupling through, I took a philips head screw driver and stretched out the cabin-facing end, and then fed the blue coupling through the engine bay-facing end with a coat-hanger. I bent the coat-hanger around the front of the coupling so that the coat-hanger was the first thing pushing through the grommet. I still had to manuevered it through the accordian section of the grommet until I could grab it and pull it through. I then pulled the rest of the sensor wire through and left about 3 feet in engine bay, reinstalled the grommet in the firewall, and reconnected the hood release cable ends.

B. Installing the Boost Sensor Unit

1. I removed the TMIC cover to get easy access to the 1/4" BOV hose and attached it to one side of a 1/4" brass tee I got from NAPA. I then took two 4-5 inch sections of 1/4" vacuum hose and attached them to the tee. I attached one of the sections to the BOV and the other to a 1/4" to 1/8" reducer (also from NAPA). I then attached the reducer to the vacuum hose that goes to the sensor. Everything was secured with tiny zip ties.

Here's the end result:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/tinstall.jpg

2. Next I opened up the battery box and pulled out the grey clip that secures one of the battery wires inside to the front of the box. I then attached the sensor unit to the outside of the battery with small bolt and nut.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/sensorpos.jpg

3. Then I coupled the sensor wire that comes out of the unit to the section that goes through the fire wall and secured the coupling to the body near the back end of the fuse box.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/coupling.jpg

C. Attaching the Power/Ground/Illumination Wires

1. I removed the lefthand/righthand panels on the center console to allow me to run the power and illumination wires over to the inside fuse box under the glove compartment.

Lefthand panel removed:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/lhconsole.jpg

Righthand panel removed:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/rhconsole.jpg

2. The wires weren't long enough to run to the fuse box, so I attached about 3 feet of wire to each and attached them to fused lines using "Add-a-Circuits" from Autozone. We need 3 of the "mini" fuse versions, at $5-$6 each.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/fusebox.jpg

I used the brake light fuse for the red power wire, the cigarette lighter fuse for the orange "ignition-on" wire, and the "illumination" fuse for the white illumination wire. I used the 3 amp fuses for each since they draw a lot less than that. Ignore the color of the wires going to the fuse box since I used the same color wire for all the extensions.

3. Next I removed the plastic panel at the front of the driver's door and attached the black ground wire to the ground point there with a U-spade:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/ground.jpg

D. Attaching the Boost Gauge

I decided to attach the gauge to the righthand side of the steering column. This way I can still see the trip meter on the right of the gauge and all of the speedometer on the left, except maybe 0-5 mph. When I'm sitting normally, it does obscure one or two of the warning lights, but I can see them all if I lean forward and peer over the gauge. Also, I initially used the sticky tape provided with the pod, but it looks like crap and started to pull up after one day. I then tried velcro. Not much better. I decided to bite the bullet and use screws to attach the base. The screws aren't visible from most angles since they are attached to the part of the column that slopes down into the wide rubber piece.

1. I pulled the ends of the sensor and the power cluster up from underneath through the right side of the steering column. To do so, I uninstalled and lifted up the right side of wide rubber piece that covers the area where column pivots for adjustment. The rubber piece has a little channel that you can feed the wires into and then close up again.

2. I removed the front and side tabs of the base, leaving just the rear tab with the screw holes. I filed the nubs left by the missing tabs down a little and then touched up the bare metal up with a Sharpie. I then bent the rear tab down to match the angle of the plastic piece covering of the steering column where it meets the front of the wide rubber piece.

3. I then installed the gauge into the pod (wires attached) and positioned it so that it obscured as little of the speedo as possible while still allowing me to easily see the trip meter. Next, I marked the front and one side of the base with masking tape and, holding the pod firmly against the column, used an awl to make an indent in the center of the screw holes. Using a very stubby philips head screw driver, I inserted the screws where the indents were and secured the gauge.

Daytime view:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/dayguage.jpg
Nightime view:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o189/desperado-c/nightgauge.jpg

4. Lastly, I pulled the remaining slack in the sensor/power wires, looped them, and attached them to the lip that runs along on the underside of dash.

That's it! Sorry, I didn't take pix as I worked, but I had my hands full just figuring things out. It took me several hours and a lot of trial-and-error which I have not bothered to relate, but hopefully it won't take anyone else anywhere near that long. Good luck!

[Vermilion]

Awesome write up man.. Love the pics and everything. Good job!

[desperado-c]

Awesome write up man.. Love the pics and everything. Good job!

Thanks. I complain but it was still fun overall. Hey, you ordered a different pod, right? Let me know how it works out. I might want to upgrade the one that comes in the box since it looks cheap and the mount is pretty sucky.

[Vermilion]

I went out today and bought 3 of those Add-a-Circuits like you used. Anyway.. since you say the wires are to short to reach the fuse box what gauge wire did you use? I'm not good with electronics so this could be a dumb question if any type works as long as it fits into the add a circuit or whatever. Also, any type of wire should be fine right? I guess it all boils down to copper wire with a plastic coating huh?

[desperado-c]

I went out today and bought 3 of those Add-a-Circuits like you used. Anyway.. since you say the wires are to short to reach the fuse box what gauge wire did you use? I'm not good with electronics so this could be a dumb question if any type works as long as it fits into the add a circuit or whatever. Also, any type of wire should be fine right? I guess it all boils down to copper wire with a plastic coating huh?

Yeah, I used 22 gauge which is about the same as the wires coming out of the unit.

[Vermilion]

I'll be using the same pod but, just a different mounting kit. The mounting kit I bought is called the Defi Link Fitting Kit.

Defi Link Fitting Kit (http://www.defi-shop.com/product/op/op_fit.html)

For this kit you have to drill holes as the bolts that come with it do not have a point for you to hand turn it into the piece your working on. It has a rubber base which makes no noise plus won't marr or scratch your steering column (even though you just drilled two holes in it lol)

It also comes with a buffer which you install around the front of the gauge which keeps your gauge from turning side to side.

[Vermilion]

Just got done making a .PDF file of your how-to installation. I mainly made it so I can send it to myself at work and can print it out to use for this weekend for my own installation. But, if ya want I can email you the pdf file and you can upload it on here. I changed around some of the wording to make it more to the point but, thats all. Also, left out the night pic but, figured most people wouldn't print it all out in color.

[desperado-c]

Better yet, after you do it, make whatever changes you think make it easier and THEN we can post it in the how-to. Oh, and the mount you bought is a much cleaner install so maybe include it in the changes, too.

[Vermilion]

Gonna install my Defi BR Boost Gauge sometime this afternoon. :)

[Vermilion]

Got it installed last night.. took me longer than expected.. course I did have some buddies over and we were shooting the shit most of the time.

Anyway.. I had to end up using the double sided tape to stick my gauge on the steering column. What I wanted to ask you was how did you get the top part of the steering column off? I took the two screws out and I saw a 3rd in the back but not really anyway to get to it. I really want to mount it with screws as I don't see this tape lasting but a few days.

Thanks

[desperado-c]

Got it installed last night.. took me longer than expected.. course I did have some buddies over and we were shooting the shit most of the time.

Anyway.. I had to end up using the double sided tape to stick my gauge on the steering column. What I wanted to ask you was how did you get the top part of the steering column off? I took the two screws out and I saw a 3rd in the back but not really anyway to get to it. I really want to mount it with screws as I don't see this tape lasting but a few days.

Thanks

I think I got to the 3rd screw by pulling the steering wheel all the way up and all the way out toward the seat. Sounds like it will be a revelation to you like it was to me that the thing telescopes!

[Vermilion]

Ya know I thought I pulled on it thinking it did telescope but I guess I either didn't notice it or was too busy running my mouth :P

[javanc]

THe top of the steering column just pops off. Its held in with the little pressure clips, easy to get off. I made the mistake of pulling out all 3 screws to find that there was no point to it. Got my ProSport electric gauge in. Now i just have to go for a drive and see how it works. Thanks for the coat hanger idea BTW it worked great.

[Vermilion]

THe top of the steering column just pops off. Its held in with the little pressure clips, easy to get off. I made the mistake of pulling out all 3 screws to find that there was no point to it. Got my ProSport electric gauge in. Now i just have to go for a drive and see how it works. Thanks for the coat hanger idea BTW it worked great.

Yah, after I took the 3 screws out as well I noticed the 3 screws had nothing to do with holding it on.

[redms3gt]

Will an electronic boost gauge elimitate the need for a resticter to reduce flutter or vibration of the needle? I have mechanical gauges now but was thinking of upgrading.

[desperado-c]

Will an electronic boost gauge elimitate the need for a resticter to reduce flutter or vibration of the needle? I have mechanical gauges now but was thinking of upgrading.

No flutter if you fork over the big bucks for a Defi. I think it's the stepping function. So maybe any electric gauge with that function won't flutter?

[Vermilion]

I used the vacuum 'tee that came with the Defi gauge. I cut the vacuum hose running off the BPV in half, popped the tee in there.. got some zip ties and cut em extra tight, popped the vacuum like from the tee to the Defi Sensor and it works very nice for me. No flutter or vibration at all.

No reducers or restrictors or anything of the sort. Everything that came with the Defi gauges I used except the Add-a-Circuits from Autozone.

[2ManyCars]

With many thanks to AG DesignWorks and Desperado-C, I thought I would post a few pictures of my Prosport BG installation. Apologies for the quality of the shots. I basically used all of the tips from the long posting earlier in this thread. I did a few things a bit differently:

- I made a couple of wiring harnesses for the sections of wire from the engine and from the drivers side across to the fuse box. I did this to keep it clean and make sure I didnt miss anything.

- The engine-to-cockpit harness was about 5 feet long using 22 gauge green, black and red wires. I split the black ground wire off from the others about half way so that it would be able to run to the ground under the drivers side left kick panel.

- The drivers side to fusebox bundle was also about 5 feet long using orange, red and white 22 gauge wire.

- I also bundled the wires coming off the gauge unit with electical tape to keep that section running behind the steering column clean.

- I mounted the unit using a modified version of the mounting "cup" from Prosport. I did not want the gauge up high enough to block anything. So I basically wanted to use the cup but mount it almost flush with the steering column panel. So I very carefully measured exactly where I wanted it (using tape on the panel) and then cut a small 1" x 1/2" hole approx 1 1/2" back on the panel behind the steering wheel for the "feet" to go through. I also cut a small hole behind that rectangle for the wires. I then cut all but about 1/2" off the feet of the mounting cup and drilled a small hole through the portion of the both feet remaining. The trick is that the hole is drilled so that it's very close to being flush with the bottom of the panel when the feet are put through the larger rectangular hole. I put the feet through the hole in the panel and used a 2" cotter pin through the hole I drilled in the feet to secure the unit. The result is that it's rock-solid and the mount is completely invisible. It does not block anything on the other gauges.

I should mention that I'm still dealing with a glitch of some kind related to the automatic headlights. The unit's lighting works perfectly when the headlights are operated manually. But there is something in the interaction with the automatic headlights that confuses the unit and it often stays "white" instead of going "amber" when the headlights go on automatically at night. Not a huge deal though...

[nighthawk358]

I just installed my Prosport Electrical Boost Gauge and the Automatic headlight sensor stopped working and I dont know why..Its in auto and its at night and the headlights dont turn on. I used the Add a circuits and used Ig Sig for Orange and Red (did not use the white). Tomorrow Im going to check everything again and Im going to plug the Red in a Constant. Can anyone tell me what went wrong?