New Motor Mounts .... need them or not?

[SergMSP]

Hey All,

I keep hearing that it is necesarry to change the motor mounts in the MSP. But there are alot of pros and cons..anyone have an opinion on this? it is needed only if you have certain mods or no matter what?

(from what ive read)
Cons-
Makes car stiffer and you feel shake?
its a bitch to change rear motor mount


Pros-
Safety measure so engine doesnt crack or sumthin?
stock mounts are weak


also its 139$ for the set...which isnt bad but still...need input!

Serg

[zumzumzoom03]

I recently had some fun with the motor mounts. My shifter moved a lot and when I had it loaded up the shifter would almost pop but I think it was just the engine torquieng. To resolve that I installed RR front motor mounts which should be the least amount of vibrations. It fixed the issue but I did have noticeably more vibrations. Throttle response was better though. I just took my car into the shop to get the lsd replaced and had them look at the rear and it was shot. I believe that was the original issue with the shifter moving. I just put a bandaid on it with inserts. So the shop is replacing the rear motor mount and I am going to take the front motor mount insert out and see how it rolls. I don't like vibrations they cause rattles. Its just my opinion. If you are doing a race car or not a daily drive than inserts would be good. Mine is a daily driver however.

[SergMSP]

I recently had some fun with the motor mounts. My shifter moved a lot and when I had it loaded up the shifter would almost pop but I think it was just the engine torquieng. To resolve that I installed RR front motor mounts which should be the least amount of vibrations. It fixed the issue but I did have noticeably more vibrations. Throttle response was better though. I just took my car into the shop to get the lsd replaced and had them look at the rear and it was shot. I believe that was the original issue with the shifter moving. I just put a bandaid on it with inserts. So the shop is replacing the rear motor mount and I am going to take the front motor mount insert out and see how it rolls. I don't like vibrations they cause rattles. Its just my opinion. If you are doing a race car or not a daily drive than inserts would be good. Mine is a daily driver however.

hmm..is the rear still a bitch to change if you just do the inserts??

[zumzumzoom03]

Yes it is because you have to pull the engine mount out to put the inserts in.

[AgentOrange]

There's a great how to for this in the how to section, It didnt take me long to install the rear mount, theres a lil vibration but I dont mind it. Car feels alot better with all new mounts, 2 of mine were completely blown when I changed them. I just bent the wireing harness bolt out of the way when changing the rear one, took me about an hour to do, definately want to use some liquid wrench on the bolts

[PlatinumMSP]

wow this is a class A newb thread... but heres what you need to know

The stock motormounts are weak they allow for way too much engine movement which can damage your engine and transmition. It also decreases your torque and power, and general drivability of your car. Upgraded motor mounts come with different stiffness ratings (durometers). AWR offers 70,88, and 95 durometer motor mounts. ********** offers 60 durometer motor mounts and sells the AWR's as well. The higher the durometer the less your engine will move but the motor vibration you will get in the cabin. Its a trade off. The movement from your engine is moved to your cabin. For all practical purposes the 60 and 70 durometer motor mounts will do the job for you. Yes the rear motor mount is a bitch to install. Take it to a shop, they'll charge 1 hour of labor for it although it will take them 3-4 hours to do. You must change both the front and rear with the same durometer motormounts otherwise it will lead to the destruction of the lower durometer motormount. The side motormounts are optional, they significantly reduce the vibration on your car. If you only change one motor mount, the others will be ripped and broken within' a week of driving. My advice, get the ********** 60 durometer mounts, all of them.

[SergMSP]

wow this is a class A newb thread... but heres what you need to know

The stock motormounts are weak they allow for way too much engine movement which can damage your engine and transmition. It also decreases your torque and power, and general drivability of your car. Upgraded motor mounts come with different stiffness ratings (durometers). AWR offers 70,88, and 95 durometer motor mounts. ********** offers 60 durometer motor mounts and sells the AWR's as well. The higher the durometer the less your engine will move but the motor vibration you will get in the cabin. Its a trade off. The movement from your engine is moved to your cabin. For all practical purposes the 60 and 70 durometer motor mounts will do the job for you. Yes the rear motor mount is a bitch to install. Take it to a shop, they'll charge 1 hour of labor for it although it will take them 3-4 hours to do. You must change both the front and rear with the same durometer motormounts otherwise it will lead to the destruction of the lower durometer motormount. The side motormounts are optional, they significantly reduce the vibration on your car. If you only change one motor mount, the others will be ripped and broken within' a week of driving. My advice, get the ********** 60 durometer mounts, all of them.
Wow, nice write up, thanks. Appreciate the info, ill probably end up getting the AWR front and rear 70 durometer...
You confused me when you said that the side mounts are optional, but significantly reduce vibration.............vibration in the cabin, or in the engine? Thanks again, sorry for the newbness comin out of me...

[BOOSTR]

No its not necessary to change them IMO. Solid mounts will not allow for any flex or movement at all. The OEM mounts are designed to dampen the shock to the engine and drivetrain and they do a good job at that. Some people make it seem like the engine is going to jump out of the car. Mine has yet to do that with 61,000 miles on it. I'm curious how many people on the fucked up LSD list have changed there mounts.

If your trying to be the next John Force in your MSP, then by all means get some stiffer mounts. For most daily driver situations, the oem mounts will work just fine.

[SergMSP]

No its not necessary to change them IMO. Solid mounts will not allow for any flex or movement at all. The OEM mounts are designed to dampen the shock to the engine and drivetrain and they do a good job at that. Some people make it seem like the engine is going to jump out of the car. Mine has yet to do that with 61,000 miles on it. I'm curious how many people on the fucked up LSD list have changed there mounts.

If your trying to be the next John Force in your MSP, then by all means get some stiffer mounts. For most daily driver situations, the oem mounts will work just fine.
sweet...i think i will post on that LSD thread to see how many changed their mounts ....thanks man. im guessing you havent changed yours either...? Saw your mod list and my setup is pretty much the same as yours...

[BOOSTR]

Nope, I still have the OEM ones. When they go, I will use OEM mounts again. I am not saying that stiffer mounts are the cause of broken LSDs, but I would not be surprised if having them on and doing what you should not be doing to your LSD, only compounds the situation. Think about it, you've cemented the engine in place with the stiffer mounts, what do you think the weakest link is then? Just my opinion.

[PlatinumMSP]

No its not necessary to change them IMO. Solid mounts will not allow for any flex or movement at all. The OEM mounts are designed to dampen the shock to the engine and drivetrain and they do a good job at that. Some people make it seem like the engine is going to jump out of the car. Mine has yet to do that with 61,000 miles on it. I'm curious how many people on the fucked up LSD list have changed there mounts.

If your trying to be the next John Force in your MSP, then by all means get some stiffer mounts. For most daily driver situations, the oem mounts will work just fine.

I beg to differ man. My stock exhaust broke because I had the stock motor mounts. Let me prove it to you.... next time your on the freeway get in second or third gear and wide open throttle and get up to 5000 rpms and let off the gas completely, your car will lash like crazy! If you've ever seen our car with stock mounts on a dyno, you'll see the engine looking like it wants to jump out of the car. The weak motormounts contribute greatly to the lsd breaking on our cars. More often than not people find theyre stock mounts already ripped when they decide to finally change them. My front motor mount was torn to shit. They are necessary for all MSP's. Other protege's have much less power and torque and thats what the stock motor mounts were designed for.

[PlatinumMSP]

Wow, nice write up, thanks. Appreciate the info, ill probably end up getting the AWR front and rear 70 durometer...
You confused me when you said that the side mounts are optional, but significantly reduce vibration.............vibration in the cabin, or in the engine? Thanks again, sorry for the newbness comin out of me...

Hey its all good bro, I've learned everything about my ride from this forum and experience.... The side motormounts will lower the vibration in the cabin and help stabalize the side to side engine movement.

[69RMSP]

What are your thoughts on the SU motor mount kit. I think im going to get it :P


Hey its all good bro, I've learned everything about my ride from this forum and experience.... The side motormounts will lower the vibration in the cabin and help stabalize the side to side engine movement.

[PlatinumMSP]

What are your thoughts on the SU motor mount kit. I think im going to get it :P

I think the SU motor mount kit is the best one out there for a couple reasons. First off, it provides lower durometer bushings which are perfect for our cars. Higher durometer bushings are severe overkill, think about it... if you buy a 300 hp car from a factory do you feel vibration throughout the entire cabin? No I think not. 2nd... they look just badass compared to our stock and awr motor mounts. 3rd... well you get the idea... Ask Cullen over at ********** about them he sells the AWR's too so he can tell you whats up for sure, tell him i sent you.

[Black_Protege_5]

I would recommend them. All of my stock mounts were ripped and broken. My front one was in 2 pieces. The stock mounts do dampen the vibration obviously but they get destroyed. I am amazed your motor mounts are still good after 61k miles. Have you removed them to check? The street unit ones are going to be softer and create less vibration but are twice as much. The vibration is not that bad and I have already gotten used to it. But yes I would change them. This should be the first mod for every protege. And if you get an aftermarket exhaust the engine movement will crack it. Just don't get any S or J pipes until you replace them.

Also what platinumMSP was trying to say is that the side inserts are not that necessary. The main ones are the front and rear. But the side inserts will help to absorb some on the vibration. Mainly just replace the passenger side mount.

[SergMSP]

I would recommend them. All of my stock mounts were ripped and broken. My front one was in 2 pieces. The stock mounts do dampen the vibration obviously but they get destroyed. I am amazed your motor mounts are still good after 61k miles. Have you removed them to check? The street unit ones are going to be softer and create less vibration but are twice as much. The vibration is not that bad and I have already gotten used to it. But yes I would change them. This should be the first mod for every protege. And if you get an aftermarket exhaust the engine movement will crack it. Just don't get any S or J pipes until you replace them.

Also what platinumMSP was trying to say is that the side inserts are not that necessary. The main ones are the front and rear. But the side inserts will help to absorb some on the vibration. Mainly just replace the passenger side mount.

Sweet...good info guys. Thanks...I'm leaning towards changing them since I am getting the apexi downpipe and have a few mods that I dont want to ruin or damage because of the engine moving...I would get the SU set in minute but theyre too damn expensive man...ill ask cullen to see if he can hook it up...but if not, i can get the entire awr set for 194 and SU set is 329...thats 135 bucks i could spend on something else..you know?

[69RMSP]

Is the SU motor mount kit hard enought to not crack my cs s-j pipes?

[Black_Protege_5]

Is the SU motor mount kit hard enought to not crack my cs s-j pipes?

Oh yea. Just the way the casing is machined it allows for less vibration. Plus the mounts look much beefier. Is it needed not sure since my AWR's do a good enough job. The durometer is not much less then awr. If you don't want to spend money on motor mounts you can fill the stock ones but I don't know how long it will last.

But I would look for someone who has the street unit kit and ask them. My motor does not move at all. So I can recommend the AWR kit but don't have a lot of input on the SU kit.

[PlatinumMSP]

Sweet...good info guys. Thanks...I'm leaning towards changing them since I am getting the apexi downpipe and have a few mods that I dont want to ruin or damage because of the engine moving...I would get the SU set in minute but theyre too damn expensive man...ill ask cullen to see if he can hook it up...but if not, i can get the entire awr set for 194 and SU set is 329...thats 135 bucks i could spend on something else..you know?

yeah he sells both of them... theres a big price difference there too because he actually has side motor mounts and not just side inserts like awr..

[MP3Performance]

I was in the same situation as you are in now in spring with my MP3. I needed to replace the engine mounts since I had crazy backlash while letting off the gas, and the infomous "wheel hop". I was considering the AWR or OEM replacments. In the end I chose the AWR 70 durometer and side inserts. I had a mechanic install the rear, and I did the front and sides (not hard at all, just need a hour or two). The front and rear were both torn much worse then I expected. I was also suprised that the passangers side was starting to tear, but saw no damage to the drivers side one. I got the car only a couple months before that from a middle aged woman, and was only the second owner. I could only imagine what will eventualy happen to the mounts in MSP's after they start putting on decent milage, since I am without a turbo and LSD and had a decent amount of mount damage. I am glad I chose the AWR since they give awsome throttle response and no more stupid swaying motion from the engine. The only problem I have is when I have the lights and AC on. It starts to get a little ridiculas with the vibration, but thats only when standing at a light. Other then that I see no downsides. When driving there is almost no difference in cabin vibration compared to stock. If you chose the AWR or equal, be sure to get the side inserts, since they actualy do help to prevent damage to the side mounts.

[Black_Protege_5]

MP3Performance. Try and reduce the vibration at a light like this. Reset your ecu. Put it back in and start the car and turn on every thing that uses power. AC, highbeams, hazards and anything else you can think of. Leave it like that for about 5 mins. That way it will give enough time for the ECU to learn how to draw the power without effecting the idle. I have tried both ways and this really works. At night when you turn things one the idle won't drop and vibrate.

[SergMSP]

MP3Performance. Try and reduce the vibration at a light like this. Reset your ecu. Put it back in and start the car and turn on every thing that uses power. AC, highbeams, hazards and anything else you can think of. Leave it like that for about 5 mins. That way it will give enough time for the ECU to learn how to draw the power without effecting the idle. I have tried both ways and this really works. At night when you turn things one the idle won't drop and vibrate.

no fukin way, this really works? so looks like im leaning towards getting getting front & rear 70 durometer, and side inserts 70......damn i hope i dont regret it....getting a downpipe was the start of this...i really hope i dont regret it..

[Black_Protege_5]

I haven't and I have the 88 front and 95 rear.

[MSP403]

Word to platinummsp, jus changed the front, rear, and sides. Listen to this guy ^^^^ this writeup is 100% correct, if you are worried about vibration buy the lowest durameter!! Anything is better that the stock (DX, LX, P5 mounts) for our turbo application!!

[MP3Performance]

Blak_Protege_5, thanks for the tip. I never have heard of it before, but I will give it a try for sure. It does make sence so maybe it will work for me. :)

[SergMSP]

Blak_Protege_5, thanks for the tip. I never have heard of it before, but I will give it a try for sure. It does make sence so maybe it will work for me. :)
let us know!

[caseb4]

I just found out that my passenger mount is messed up. I think it is best to swap all of the mounts out at one time. This thread has definitely won me over to buying the ********** motor mounts. Thanks.

[69RMSP]

mawhahawhawh, im getting them for xmas :D

24 years young and my family still spoils me.


I just found out that my passenger mount is messed up. I think it is best to swap all of the mounts out at one time. This thread has definitely won me over to buying the ********** motor mounts. Thanks.

[yellowmsp035]

i have 68,000kms on my car, a fmic, a 3'' turbo back stainless steel exhaust (so with a dp) and a cold air intake under the hood and from some stupid ass reason i still havent changed mine. i have checked and they are pretty badly trashed. the two intakes(piping) are all scratched up becuase of the motor sway and banging into things... i just had to weld the end of my resonator back together when it got ripped off because engine movement stressing and yanking on it (will post pics tomorrow). and to top it all off i just found out that i now have a cracked exhaust manifold from the jerking. i was thinking about the AWR set but now i am torn between the SU set... all im trying to say is i am a perfect example of how dumb someone can be without changing them and what can happen... please don't follow in my footsteps. be smart replace your engine mounts.

[69RMSP]

I was in the same position. I didnt have motor mounts which resulted into a cracked mani. After the dealership repalced it I had them put it on alittle lose untill I put in the motor mounts. I know this caused loss in power due to a leak but I really didnt want to keep cracking the mani.

If your downpipe was made the same was corksports is, I suggest having a look at that aswell..



i have 68,000kms on my car, a fmic, a 3'' turbo back stainless steel exhaust (so with a dp) and a cold air intake under the hood and from some stupid ass reason i still havent changed mine. i have checked and they are pretty badly trashed. the two intakes(piping) are all scratched up becuase of the motor sway and banging into things... i just had to weld the end of my resonator back together when it got ripped off because engine movement stressing and yanking on it (will post pics tomorrow). and to top it all off i just found out that i now have a cracked exhaust manifold from the jerking. i was thinking about the AWR set but now i am torn between the SU set... all im trying to say is i am a perfect example of how dumb someone can be without changing them and what can happen... please don't follow in my footsteps. be smart replace your engine mounts.

[mickeyreategui]

go for them, even if you are not going to mod the car at all. i had the rear and front done with awr mounts and 70 durometer inserts, and it had crazy vibration when at idle and the air on. but then i got the side inserts and it knocked down the vibration to little bit more than stock. you can feel the instant difference once they are in, no more wheel hop and you can feel you shifts go smoother and to the ground faster. love them wish would have done them a long time ago.

[dnett15]

they are a must have, i have 90 dur. mounts, car does shake(something you have to get used to) but with the mounts i shaved .3 secs on my 1/8 mile time, helped with tire hop

[Black_Protege_5]

Unfortunaltly I will be selling my car soon so i will have some mounts up for sale.

As for the SU kit I would like to see the difference. Performance wise I don't think you will notice a difference but SU might be a little more comfortable. But for double the price I don't know if I can get myself to spend that much when I got all of my mounts for around $110.

Have you tried the battery reset?

[SergMSP]

thanks guys for all the posts, youve all collectively inspired me to get them for sure. I found the rear 70 durometer at a fair price here on the forums...lookin for front now...i hear that if you put in sides the vibration gets worse...which would make sense since your engine is locked in its place from all sides....how many of you guys have all 4 mounts changed?

[RenzoMSP]

I have the 95 front motor mount. Is it necessary to replace the rear? Will i gain anything? I still get wheel hop from time to time. Also will replacing the rear make the car vibrate even more?

[Black_Protege_5]

The rear is the big one. I have all around and am happy. Well worth it IMO. It is not fun to install the rear though.

[RenzoMSP]

Anyone have a rear awr mount for sale?

[lisevolution]

Anyone else try that battery reset trick yet??? Curious if that actually works since I definitely need to do something soon to stop the engine movement... the driveline lash is ridiculous!

[SergMSP]

Anyone else try that battery reset trick yet??? Curious if that actually works since I definitely need to do something soon to stop the engine movement... the driveline lash is ridiculous!
ridiculous really? what durometer are yours? i hear that the AWR 70 durometer (lowest you can go) front and back vibrate alot but after like 2-3 weeks it gets better and vibrates like stock with A/C on...can anyone validate this?

[MP3Performance]

I have 70 duro front and back with side inserts, and I can say that it does get better after a week or so of driving. BUT, atleast for me, having the A/C on especialy with the lights is not like stock at all. It does vibrate noticebly with the new mounts, with the stock ones there was almost no vibration. That being said, its not too bad, and if you care more about performance then comfort it is no problem at all.

[SergMSP]

I have 70 duro front and back with side inserts, and I can say that it does get better after a week or so of driving. BUT, atleast for me, having the A/C on especialy with the lights is not like stock at all. It does vibrate noticebly with the new mounts, with the stock ones there was almost no vibration. That being said, its not too bad, and if you care more about performance then comfort it is no problem at all.
sweet..thas my main concern also, performance and safety from cracks, etc that engine movement causes...thanks man! im goin to put on front and back first, once that settles ill probly put in the side inserts...

[MazdaSpeedSter]

Hey Serg. Street unit.com Has mounts for sale now... They're pretty nice looking. I'm getting mine in Friday! YAY...

Click <here (http://www.***************/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SUPAFRMM&Click=193)>

When you click on the link, replace the *********'s with street unit . com <--- no spaces
It's blocked on the site cause the 2 forums have some steak! lol...