thebeansoldier
09-19-2006, 05:31 AM
NA Power Stage 3
(rtfm)
(designed primarily for the Mz3)
Modifications
1. Balance Shaft Delete [BSD] (2.3L only)
2. Header
3. Lightweight Flywheel (MTX only)
4. Stronger Clutch (MTX only)
5. Upgraded Valve Body (ATX only)
6. Torque Converter (ATX only)
7. Fuel & Spark Tuning
8. Wideband O2 & A/F Gauge
We now move on to more in-depth installs and warranty-voiding parts. You get rotational weight reduction with the Balance Shaft Delete and Flywheel, removal of the pre-cat restriction with a Header, better shifting with upgraded ATX parts, and finally tuning your air/fuel ratio with a standalone ECU. All of the entries were contributed by our fellow members: tsunami, goldfish, keisukeMamoru86, BeefCake, and 909, so thank them for this great post.
1. Balance Shaft Delete [Cosworth BSD] by goldfish
Price: $25-30
Install: 2-4 hours (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123649153)
Pros: Faster Reving Engine due to less rotational mass, slight power gain, 1 quart oil capacity gain.
Cons: 2.3L only (2.0Ls doesn't have a BS), Difficulty of install, slightly louder engine, more noticeable in-cabin vibration, potential problems utilizing engine warranty at a dealership.
Peak Power Gains: +3 hp / +3 tq
The balance shaft delete kit requires someone somewhat skilled in the ways of the automobile. If this is the first mod you elect to ever do to your car and are new to modding in general it is HIGHLY recommended you get someone who has worked on cars quite a bit assist you or do the install for you while you watch. I would suggest this mod to anyone seeking everything they can out of their stock engine without tearing into very costly modifications like flywheels/clutches and the like. While the install time is still extensive and requires a bit of patience it's not near as difficult or as expensive as the aforementioned.
The brand of balance shaft delete kit I decided to go with was the Cosworth, for two reasons. It's removalable and two, it's made by cosworth. There are a few other balance shaft delete kits on the market, such as marcy motorsports and SCI makes one too. The balance shaft frees up some power up high in the RPM band much like a lightened flywheel would, only not as much. It also yields a more responsive throttle and RPMs raise and fall a bit faster. If you are worried about your car being louder or vibrating in cabin or best yet, engine warranty being voided when you see the dealer for service... this mod is not for you. The vibrating in cabin is very minimal and I can't feel it anymore, but there is a definite growl to your engine once the balance shaft is removed. The balance shaft weighs in 18lbs and 6 of those are rotational. The added quart of oil capacity is one more benefit, your oil will lose it's viscosity that much slower!
Where to Buy
SCI : http://sportcompactindustries.com
Cosworth: http://focussport.com
Dyno
This dyno gives a rough idea on how much a BSD can be gained. Look how the graph in both the low-end and mid-rage is so similar until it starts reaching the top end. This is where you see the benefit of losing the balance shafts which spins about twice the engine speed. Mods are listed in the image. Thanks to AzMz3 for providing the dyno run file.
3.5k = +2whp +1wtq
5.5k = +2whp +2wtq
6.0k = +3whp +3wtq
6.5k = +4whp +3wtq
http://i9.tinypic.com/35l8ewi.gif
2. Header [Thunder 4-1] by tsunami
Price: $300-$400
Install: 4-8 hours (http://www.draxas.com/docs/mazda3headerinstallation.doc) these are the draxas instructions and i only used these for a basic idea
Pros: Freer exhaust flow, more power
Cons: Removal of factory cat, illegal (off-road only), CEL
Peak Power Gains: +7whp / +4wtq (Thunder 4-1 header and stock exhaust)
The Header choice is limited to four companies right now.
Draxas: I think is out of production
Thunder: From Taiwan only one with a proven dyno. solid flex pipe must use spring bolts. stainless construction very well made
OBX: No flex pipe. you must get one fabricated at a local exhuast shop. construction seems to be better then the protege version of the obx header so quality may no longer be an issue
Vibrant: The most expensive of the bunch. stainless construction and high quality.
Every header will throw a cel. This is due to the removal of the cat and 02 sensor errors that result. There are a couple fixes for this the non fouler trick as well as a wiring trick with a small capacitor and resistor both can be found with a simple search. The thunder header had a built in elbow the same as the protege version to remedy this but from my testing it appears to be to far from the exhuast stream. i am getting work done soon to shorten the tube and see if it takes care of the issue.
Install advice
I read the instructions from Draxas but with talking with Juan from HiBoost he said the easiest way to remove the header is to remove the hood and then all the cowl pieces down to the stamped metal. (you must remove the wipers for this as well) then to remove the header from the block and slide it up out of the bay. The only hard part about this is the angle bracket that holds the header to the block is a B*TCH to get off. I hit it pretty good with "knock er loose" and then had to have a second set of hands. I was under the car with a box end wrench b/c of clearance you can't get a socket in where the bolt is. then i had help from top with another wrench attached to mine into a > shape and he was pushing as i was pushing and we were finaly able to crack the two bolts free. everything before and after that is a breeze, aslo be sure to follow the tq pattern and specs installing your new header.
Gains
Are noticable more in the mid rpm range then anywhere else. I deffinatly notice an improvement going up the big hills on my way to work i didn't have to downshift as i used to. Also it seems to have a nice kick with the vvt change over seems a bit more of an impact then it used to be.
Bean's note
Too loud after already having a cat-back, test pipe, and header? Have a muffler shop weld in a resonator or install an ECV (exhaust control valve) (http://**********************/index.php?topic=42320.0) to control the flow/volume of your exhaust setup.
Where to buy
Vibrant : http://vibrantperformance.com
Thunder: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123641294
OBX Racing: http://www.mazda3online.com
Draxas: http://sportcompactindustries.com
3. Lightweight Flywheel [Exedy] by keisukeMamoru86
Price: 300-$400. Install (if done separately from new clutch) is about $500.
Install: 5 hours at a shop
Pros: Quicker revs, slightly quicker acceleration (with a catch, see description), slightly better gas mileage.
Cons: (applies to NA vehicles) Excess clutch slippage is needed to get going, and this extra slippage adds to the massive vibrations of an AWR 70D engine mount.
Peak power gains: N/A
Lightweight flywheels are probably best used in conjunction with a stronger clutch, which are used for future forced induction setups. Almost like the aftermarket clutches, lightweight flywheels are sort of pointless for an NA vehicle, and can actually hurt performance more than help. An NA car will struggle to get the car moving with a lighter flywheel due to reduced rotational inertia in the flywheel. The stock flywheel is a good balance of performance and drivability, once you give it some gas, the stock fly's heavy inertia will help the car move forward when finessing the clutch. With a lightweight fly, more clutch slippage is necessary to get the car going. This slippage causes you to wait an extra second or two at any stop. Reason being is that a lightweight fly's reduced rotational inertia simply isn't enough to get the wheels moving, so you have to hold the clutch until the car begins to move.
Forced induction systems may have it different though. I haven't gone the boosted route as of yet, but I would assume that the massive power increase could assist in getting the car going much faster. A turbo would also take full advantage of your new clutch's holding power, as well as exploit any lost HP that was regained via a lightweight flywheel. An NA car must rebuild momentum in the lightweight flywheel during every shift, whereas a stock flywheel already has most of it's momentum ready to be used.
To make a long story short: don't switch to a lighter flywheel without forced induction in mind. I did it, and greatly miss my stock clutch. I hope the Mazdaspeed is still balanced between drivability and performance.
Where to buy
SPEC (8-8.5lbs) : http://nsnmotorsports.com
Fidanza (8.5lbs) : http://mazda3online.com
F2 (10lbs) : http://f2cars.com
Unorthodox (10lbs) : http://unorthodoxracing.com
Exedy (11lbs) : http://mazda3online.com
Mazdaspeed (13.8lbs) : http://mazda3online.com
4. Stage 1-5 clutches [SPEC Stage 1] by keisukeMamoru86
Price:usually between $400-$500 depending on the brand. Roughly $500 if a shop installs it for you.
Install: 5 hours. Strongly recommend taking it to the shop (unless you're comfortable dismantling the area around the tranny)
Review: http://**********************/index.php?topic=28493.0
Pros: Stronger clamp load, much stronger torque capacity.
Cons: Expensive, and almost pointless to do if you plan on staying NA
Peak power gains: none
Most aftermarket clutches (including Mazdaspeed's) claim around 40% clamp increase and 70% torque capacity. If you have plans to go the forced induction route, a stronger clutch would certainly compliment that. The stock clutch can only transmit so much power to the wheels before slipping up, and it would be both hazardous and embarrasing for your clutch to give out under heavy driving :). If a turbocharger is in your car's near future, invest in an aftermarket clutch - many clutches have been reported to hold up to 280-ish HP and torque. That's more than enough for a basic clutch upgrade. Should you boost over 300hp/tq, you're probably rich enough to dish out the cash on a higher stage clutch anyways lol.
Where to buy
SPEC: http://nsnmotorsports.com
Exedy: http://mazda3online.com
Mazdaspeed: http://mazda3online.com
5. ATX Upgraded Valve Body by 909
Cost: $400-$700
Install:1-2hrs
Pros: Quicker shifts, Less heat, Longer lasting transmission fluid and components
Cons: 5 speed ATX applications require $1000 core deposit or send your VB in to be modified. Shifts are harsher in city traffic driving.
Peak Power Gains: N/A
A modified valve body corrects issues found more when adding power to the 3. Engineers are faced with a compromise when building the ATX transmissions. This compromise is smoother shifting or longer lasting components. Usually this compromise is in favor of the driver comfort which creates a problem. When the ATX transmission shifts, there are ECU controlled solenoids that carry out the shift action. This action is similar to the MTX shifting where the clutches are released, and gears are changed, then the clutches are re-engaged. The ATX has no heavy pressure plate or hard to push springs so clutch engagement is done with hydraulics using the transmission fluid. With todays cars, we can often change shift patterns and pressures with changes to the ECU. Mother Mazda has prevented us from making changes to the factory ECU so we are really making changes to the hydraulics within the transmission through the valve body by changing solenoids, and enlarging holes to flow more fluid. The ECU doesn't know there were changes made inside so it continues to do it's thing just like stock. The modified VB does 2 things, Shifts are quicker and firmer (no more lazy 2-3 shift) and the line pressure is increased which is what engages the clutches. Both of these changes are designed to do 2 things, 1 is reduced clutch wear, and 2 is generate less heat. Both of these will make your transmission and fluid last a good long time.
Currently Lentech supplies the VB for the 4 speed ATX only. When Mazda went to the 5 speed ATX, they switched manufacturers to Jatco. Currently SCI is the only place to get the modified Jatco VB. The optional trans brake allows a 1/4 mile launch to happen. Simply put, you pull to the line, move the shifter into manual mode, stage, then push forward on the shifter stick. This will lock the transmission in place and not allow the car to creep forward. Then press down on the aaccelerator untill you reach launch RPM. When the light turns green, release the shift lever. You'll launch like a MTX car.
Where to buy:
SCI : http://sportcompactindustries.com
6. Torque Converter [Lentech 9"] by 909
Cost: $400-$800
Install:6+ hrs
Pros: Modified stall speed means you can launch your car at peak torque
Cons: Decreases gas mileage, makes the car less streetable, must remove engine to install.
Peak Power Gains: N/A
There are currently 2 torque converter options for the 4 speed ATX. 1 has a 16 spline hub, and the other has a 23 spline hub. The 23 spline is intended to be used with the hardened billett 23 spline Lentech input shaft. Both converters are custom stall speed so you can define where peak torque is for drag racing applications. This is the final step in ATX buildups and should only be used for a 1/4 mile car or stock stall used for street applications where you need an aftermarket TC replacement. These are currently not available for the 5 speed Jatco ATX.
Where to buy:
SCI : http://sportcompactindustries.com
(rtfm)
(designed primarily for the Mz3)
Modifications
1. Balance Shaft Delete [BSD] (2.3L only)
2. Header
3. Lightweight Flywheel (MTX only)
4. Stronger Clutch (MTX only)
5. Upgraded Valve Body (ATX only)
6. Torque Converter (ATX only)
7. Fuel & Spark Tuning
8. Wideband O2 & A/F Gauge
We now move on to more in-depth installs and warranty-voiding parts. You get rotational weight reduction with the Balance Shaft Delete and Flywheel, removal of the pre-cat restriction with a Header, better shifting with upgraded ATX parts, and finally tuning your air/fuel ratio with a standalone ECU. All of the entries were contributed by our fellow members: tsunami, goldfish, keisukeMamoru86, BeefCake, and 909, so thank them for this great post.
1. Balance Shaft Delete [Cosworth BSD] by goldfish
Price: $25-30
Install: 2-4 hours (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123649153)
Pros: Faster Reving Engine due to less rotational mass, slight power gain, 1 quart oil capacity gain.
Cons: 2.3L only (2.0Ls doesn't have a BS), Difficulty of install, slightly louder engine, more noticeable in-cabin vibration, potential problems utilizing engine warranty at a dealership.
Peak Power Gains: +3 hp / +3 tq
The balance shaft delete kit requires someone somewhat skilled in the ways of the automobile. If this is the first mod you elect to ever do to your car and are new to modding in general it is HIGHLY recommended you get someone who has worked on cars quite a bit assist you or do the install for you while you watch. I would suggest this mod to anyone seeking everything they can out of their stock engine without tearing into very costly modifications like flywheels/clutches and the like. While the install time is still extensive and requires a bit of patience it's not near as difficult or as expensive as the aforementioned.
The brand of balance shaft delete kit I decided to go with was the Cosworth, for two reasons. It's removalable and two, it's made by cosworth. There are a few other balance shaft delete kits on the market, such as marcy motorsports and SCI makes one too. The balance shaft frees up some power up high in the RPM band much like a lightened flywheel would, only not as much. It also yields a more responsive throttle and RPMs raise and fall a bit faster. If you are worried about your car being louder or vibrating in cabin or best yet, engine warranty being voided when you see the dealer for service... this mod is not for you. The vibrating in cabin is very minimal and I can't feel it anymore, but there is a definite growl to your engine once the balance shaft is removed. The balance shaft weighs in 18lbs and 6 of those are rotational. The added quart of oil capacity is one more benefit, your oil will lose it's viscosity that much slower!
Where to Buy
SCI : http://sportcompactindustries.com
Cosworth: http://focussport.com
Dyno
This dyno gives a rough idea on how much a BSD can be gained. Look how the graph in both the low-end and mid-rage is so similar until it starts reaching the top end. This is where you see the benefit of losing the balance shafts which spins about twice the engine speed. Mods are listed in the image. Thanks to AzMz3 for providing the dyno run file.
3.5k = +2whp +1wtq
5.5k = +2whp +2wtq
6.0k = +3whp +3wtq
6.5k = +4whp +3wtq
http://i9.tinypic.com/35l8ewi.gif
2. Header [Thunder 4-1] by tsunami
Price: $300-$400
Install: 4-8 hours (http://www.draxas.com/docs/mazda3headerinstallation.doc) these are the draxas instructions and i only used these for a basic idea
Pros: Freer exhaust flow, more power
Cons: Removal of factory cat, illegal (off-road only), CEL
Peak Power Gains: +7whp / +4wtq (Thunder 4-1 header and stock exhaust)
The Header choice is limited to four companies right now.
Draxas: I think is out of production
Thunder: From Taiwan only one with a proven dyno. solid flex pipe must use spring bolts. stainless construction very well made
OBX: No flex pipe. you must get one fabricated at a local exhuast shop. construction seems to be better then the protege version of the obx header so quality may no longer be an issue
Vibrant: The most expensive of the bunch. stainless construction and high quality.
Every header will throw a cel. This is due to the removal of the cat and 02 sensor errors that result. There are a couple fixes for this the non fouler trick as well as a wiring trick with a small capacitor and resistor both can be found with a simple search. The thunder header had a built in elbow the same as the protege version to remedy this but from my testing it appears to be to far from the exhuast stream. i am getting work done soon to shorten the tube and see if it takes care of the issue.
Install advice
I read the instructions from Draxas but with talking with Juan from HiBoost he said the easiest way to remove the header is to remove the hood and then all the cowl pieces down to the stamped metal. (you must remove the wipers for this as well) then to remove the header from the block and slide it up out of the bay. The only hard part about this is the angle bracket that holds the header to the block is a B*TCH to get off. I hit it pretty good with "knock er loose" and then had to have a second set of hands. I was under the car with a box end wrench b/c of clearance you can't get a socket in where the bolt is. then i had help from top with another wrench attached to mine into a > shape and he was pushing as i was pushing and we were finaly able to crack the two bolts free. everything before and after that is a breeze, aslo be sure to follow the tq pattern and specs installing your new header.
Gains
Are noticable more in the mid rpm range then anywhere else. I deffinatly notice an improvement going up the big hills on my way to work i didn't have to downshift as i used to. Also it seems to have a nice kick with the vvt change over seems a bit more of an impact then it used to be.
Bean's note
Too loud after already having a cat-back, test pipe, and header? Have a muffler shop weld in a resonator or install an ECV (exhaust control valve) (http://**********************/index.php?topic=42320.0) to control the flow/volume of your exhaust setup.
Where to buy
Vibrant : http://vibrantperformance.com
Thunder: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123641294
OBX Racing: http://www.mazda3online.com
Draxas: http://sportcompactindustries.com
3. Lightweight Flywheel [Exedy] by keisukeMamoru86
Price: 300-$400. Install (if done separately from new clutch) is about $500.
Install: 5 hours at a shop
Pros: Quicker revs, slightly quicker acceleration (with a catch, see description), slightly better gas mileage.
Cons: (applies to NA vehicles) Excess clutch slippage is needed to get going, and this extra slippage adds to the massive vibrations of an AWR 70D engine mount.
Peak power gains: N/A
Lightweight flywheels are probably best used in conjunction with a stronger clutch, which are used for future forced induction setups. Almost like the aftermarket clutches, lightweight flywheels are sort of pointless for an NA vehicle, and can actually hurt performance more than help. An NA car will struggle to get the car moving with a lighter flywheel due to reduced rotational inertia in the flywheel. The stock flywheel is a good balance of performance and drivability, once you give it some gas, the stock fly's heavy inertia will help the car move forward when finessing the clutch. With a lightweight fly, more clutch slippage is necessary to get the car going. This slippage causes you to wait an extra second or two at any stop. Reason being is that a lightweight fly's reduced rotational inertia simply isn't enough to get the wheels moving, so you have to hold the clutch until the car begins to move.
Forced induction systems may have it different though. I haven't gone the boosted route as of yet, but I would assume that the massive power increase could assist in getting the car going much faster. A turbo would also take full advantage of your new clutch's holding power, as well as exploit any lost HP that was regained via a lightweight flywheel. An NA car must rebuild momentum in the lightweight flywheel during every shift, whereas a stock flywheel already has most of it's momentum ready to be used.
To make a long story short: don't switch to a lighter flywheel without forced induction in mind. I did it, and greatly miss my stock clutch. I hope the Mazdaspeed is still balanced between drivability and performance.
Where to buy
SPEC (8-8.5lbs) : http://nsnmotorsports.com
Fidanza (8.5lbs) : http://mazda3online.com
F2 (10lbs) : http://f2cars.com
Unorthodox (10lbs) : http://unorthodoxracing.com
Exedy (11lbs) : http://mazda3online.com
Mazdaspeed (13.8lbs) : http://mazda3online.com
4. Stage 1-5 clutches [SPEC Stage 1] by keisukeMamoru86
Price:usually between $400-$500 depending on the brand. Roughly $500 if a shop installs it for you.
Install: 5 hours. Strongly recommend taking it to the shop (unless you're comfortable dismantling the area around the tranny)
Review: http://**********************/index.php?topic=28493.0
Pros: Stronger clamp load, much stronger torque capacity.
Cons: Expensive, and almost pointless to do if you plan on staying NA
Peak power gains: none
Most aftermarket clutches (including Mazdaspeed's) claim around 40% clamp increase and 70% torque capacity. If you have plans to go the forced induction route, a stronger clutch would certainly compliment that. The stock clutch can only transmit so much power to the wheels before slipping up, and it would be both hazardous and embarrasing for your clutch to give out under heavy driving :). If a turbocharger is in your car's near future, invest in an aftermarket clutch - many clutches have been reported to hold up to 280-ish HP and torque. That's more than enough for a basic clutch upgrade. Should you boost over 300hp/tq, you're probably rich enough to dish out the cash on a higher stage clutch anyways lol.
Where to buy
SPEC: http://nsnmotorsports.com
Exedy: http://mazda3online.com
Mazdaspeed: http://mazda3online.com
5. ATX Upgraded Valve Body by 909
Cost: $400-$700
Install:1-2hrs
Pros: Quicker shifts, Less heat, Longer lasting transmission fluid and components
Cons: 5 speed ATX applications require $1000 core deposit or send your VB in to be modified. Shifts are harsher in city traffic driving.
Peak Power Gains: N/A
A modified valve body corrects issues found more when adding power to the 3. Engineers are faced with a compromise when building the ATX transmissions. This compromise is smoother shifting or longer lasting components. Usually this compromise is in favor of the driver comfort which creates a problem. When the ATX transmission shifts, there are ECU controlled solenoids that carry out the shift action. This action is similar to the MTX shifting where the clutches are released, and gears are changed, then the clutches are re-engaged. The ATX has no heavy pressure plate or hard to push springs so clutch engagement is done with hydraulics using the transmission fluid. With todays cars, we can often change shift patterns and pressures with changes to the ECU. Mother Mazda has prevented us from making changes to the factory ECU so we are really making changes to the hydraulics within the transmission through the valve body by changing solenoids, and enlarging holes to flow more fluid. The ECU doesn't know there were changes made inside so it continues to do it's thing just like stock. The modified VB does 2 things, Shifts are quicker and firmer (no more lazy 2-3 shift) and the line pressure is increased which is what engages the clutches. Both of these changes are designed to do 2 things, 1 is reduced clutch wear, and 2 is generate less heat. Both of these will make your transmission and fluid last a good long time.
Currently Lentech supplies the VB for the 4 speed ATX only. When Mazda went to the 5 speed ATX, they switched manufacturers to Jatco. Currently SCI is the only place to get the modified Jatco VB. The optional trans brake allows a 1/4 mile launch to happen. Simply put, you pull to the line, move the shifter into manual mode, stage, then push forward on the shifter stick. This will lock the transmission in place and not allow the car to creep forward. Then press down on the aaccelerator untill you reach launch RPM. When the light turns green, release the shift lever. You'll launch like a MTX car.
Where to buy:
SCI : http://sportcompactindustries.com
6. Torque Converter [Lentech 9"] by 909
Cost: $400-$800
Install:6+ hrs
Pros: Modified stall speed means you can launch your car at peak torque
Cons: Decreases gas mileage, makes the car less streetable, must remove engine to install.
Peak Power Gains: N/A
There are currently 2 torque converter options for the 4 speed ATX. 1 has a 16 spline hub, and the other has a 23 spline hub. The 23 spline is intended to be used with the hardened billett 23 spline Lentech input shaft. Both converters are custom stall speed so you can define where peak torque is for drag racing applications. This is the final step in ATX buildups and should only be used for a 1/4 mile car or stock stall used for street applications where you need an aftermarket TC replacement. These are currently not available for the 5 speed Jatco ATX.
Where to buy:
SCI : http://sportcompactindustries.com