Exhaust Cutout? Good idea?

[Run for Cover]

I have a few friends with turbos.. and some have gone the route of doing the exhaust cutout trick.. there is a shop around here local that does a NICE job of doing it... just wonderin if there are in horror stories or anything? i saw it and heard it done on an msp.. was nice.. and its ALOT cheaper then buying a turbo back.. i was jyst going to get the s pipe and buy another oem jpipe and let them do the cutout... worth doing or no? thanks

[Velocifero]

i have vibrant's 3" spipe back and i just had an electronic cutout put on last night, so far i like it alot. since my exhaust was already upgraded I didnt see any huge gains but i can tell it pulls harder. i dropped it one time and definitely smoked more than previously, through 1st, 2nd and i let off in 3rd. it sounds bad ass, but i recommend doing an electronic cutout so you can close it when you want easily. check out dmhperformance.com good prices, shipped uber fast and good quality/ easy to install. since i just got it on last night i havent had time to make any film of it, but it is in the plans so you can see it out.

[Run for Cover]

there are do it yourself ones? yah the one shop around here installs a switch for you and its electric...

[sandspeed]

velocifero could you post some pics of the cutout when you get a chance, thanks man. I just seached the dmhperformance.com website. I've been researching cutouts for a little while so thanks for the link. When i was running open downpipe 4th gear pulled like a bastard..haha good times.

[03.5MSP]

I plan on getting a qtp electric cut out once i save up some cash.

[sandspeed]

I plan on getting a qtp electric cut out once i save up some cash.

I've heard of those, do you have a link?

[MP3Architect]

i run a cutout almost 24/7. been doing so since the summer of last year. i did it after hearing equinox, discreetspeed and citizenpro all running cutouts. whenever i close it up i feel so slow, theres quite a difference. i would HIGHLY recommend getting an electronic one though. i just installed a manual one right after the downpipe so whenever cops are around i always have to shove it in to top gear to keep her a lil quieter or just coast around till the po po is gone. its damn loud. and probably illigal in every state (it is in mine). heres some videos for your viewing pleasure. i LOVE my sound. plus i get a HELL of a ot less civics and other smaller cars trying to race me. i guess they all feel intimidated. and everyone always looks at me when im driving down the road.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8970917388158208664&q=mp3architect
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7029672670904533460&q=mp3architect
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=321739308510135853&q=mp3architect

[Puckpimp71]

I just read a post where a guy with the unichip and either SMIC or FMIC gained about 9whp with it open. He had stock cat-back, but bigger mid-pipe... can't remember where the post was, but I think it's worth it. I have the QTP and LOVE it. I keep it closed 99% of the time, but the sound alone it worth the money.

[03.5MSP]

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php

[Velocifero]

I plan on getting a qtp electric cut out once i save up some cash.
i was debating QTP as well, I really didn't like the switch they provide with theirs, it is a toggle switch, where DMH used a flat rocker switch. Just my two cents that if you get the QTP, ask for another switch or wire on a new switch yourself it looks real cheesy. I also liked DMH because for $20 extra you get the Race Ready cutout, and for the 3" Race Ready at Summit it was like $56. I know jack about welding so I went to a local fabrication shop and we worked it out together. I'll be sure to get some pics and a nice little video up as soon as I have some free time after work, since yesterday I have been running around like crazy.

EDIT: i looked at QTPs site and I see they also have a digital controller, that looks pretty nice and it does some pretty nifty things for you. Either way any body goes I think you'll be happy with it, as long as installed correctly. Don't be fooled though, it is real friggin loud! I had two brothers bouncing away to some loud music in a car next to me and they couldn't hear me at idle then when I accerated their heads just snapped over instantly, it was a classic look that I wish I had a camera on it. You get looks from truckers and just about everbody.

[Puckpimp71]

QTP switch isn't that bad.... You hold it for 5 seconds to open or close it and it's dimly lit, so at rest it's yellowish, when you open it, the light turns green and red when you close it. It's not very pretty, but it gets the job done.

[Velocifero]

I am not saying the switch is faulty, just not my style and doesnt flow with the interior of the car. In case we are looking at different pictures here is the DMH and QTP from the Summit website. I also like the adjustable direction you can turn the DMH at the mounting points, it made it a little easier to position mine under the car. I am not bashing anything here, just dont like the switch. I know QTP is quality, they have been around for a while and a lot of other car makes trust them.

[sandspeed]

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php

cool thanks.

Here another website that sells electric cutouts http://www.badlanzhpe.com/index.html

[SpeedBeaver]

Boutht mine at badlanz (link in post above)

My cutout midpipe build... and vids!
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123637780

[vxfilmer1000]

So this is just like running open dp.


Is there anything wrong with just unbolting your echaust from your dp and running open dp. I want get my car dyno'd and I think I might do that before I go to get a little extra power.

[SpeedBeaver]

So this is just like running open dp.


Is there anything wrong with just unbolting your echaust from your dp and running open dp. I want get my car dyno'd and I think I might do that before I go to get a little extra power.
There is nothing wrong about being open dp... problem is that if a cop is nearby you won't be able to close it and get the noise level back to stock, unlike a cutout.

But if you want to try it on a dyno, yeah, sure.

[Run for Cover]

i think i am going to have the shop do this.. better then spending 1200 on an exhaust.. ha ha now do you think i should get teh S and jpipe aftermarket? or say forget it and just leave those stock? thats my next decision.. i want the exhaust cutout.. but THe S and J pipe.. what to do what to do

[Myspeed12]

what size would the cutout inch have to be on the stock exhaust

[MSP608]

wont an electric cut out give you a CEL?? and then dont CEL's kinda hinder performance by kinda limiting everything on the car bc the computer thinks something is wrong.

[orng1]

No you shouldn't trigger a CEL, I've heard of people running the O2 just hanging but I personally don't know any of them. I have no cats on my car and still don't trigger a CEL. Yeah an S pipe upgrade would be a great idea.

[MP3Architect]

wont an electric cut out give you a CEL??
no. your O2 sensor wont read hardly anything at all since the exhaust will be shooting outside of the car and not into the pipe where the sensor is on. it only throws a cel when too many fumes are pushed through the sensor area.

[SpeedBeaver]

I just putted a set of non-foulers on the new midpipe and I never saw a cel since the beginning of the summer.

[MSP608]

no. your O2 sensor wont read hardly anything at all since the exhaust will be shooting outside of the car and not into the pipe where the sensor is on. it only throws a cel when too many fumes are pushed through the sensor area.

gotcha, that makes sense

[SpeedBeaver]

no. your O2 sensor wont read hardly anything at all since the exhaust will be shooting outside of the car and not into the pipe where the sensor is on. it only throws a cel when too many fumes are pushed through the sensor area.
I think he meant when the cutout is closed and the fumes are going throught the normal exhaust path.

[MP3Architect]

I think he meant when the cutout is closed and the fumes are going throught the normal exhaust path.
is true but i still never get a CEL even the few times im running closed.

[MSP608]

I think he meant when the cutout is closed and the fumes are going throught the normal exhaust path.

no, why would you get a CEL from when the exhaust is going where its supposed to. i just figured that if the o2 sensor did get anything itd freak out

[speedcicle]

no, why would you get a CEL from when the exhaust is going where its supposed to. i just figured that if the o2 sensor did get anything itd freak out


yea you would think if you open the exhaust the 02 sensor would read a lean condition and throw a cel......because no exhaust is passing it. Unless the 02 sensor is upstream of the cutout.

[chaos2015]

I just read a post where a guy with the unichip and either SMIC or FMIC gained about 9whp with it open. He had stock cat-back, but bigger mid-pipe... can't remember where the post was, but I think it's worth it. I have the QTP and LOVE it. I keep it closed 99% of the time, but the sound alone it worth the money.

yea that was my car. its unichiped smic. i am running a catless midpipe with stock exhaust. with full exhaust i put down 207 and with it open i put down 218

[SP33D]

well i ran mine at stock boost at the track and i ran slower, i think the spool time was longer... but i would bet at higher boost it works better.

[SpeedBeaver]

what I meant is that when the cutout is closed, at least in my setup (see pictures in the link I posted above), there is no cat before the o2 sensor, thus it could throw a cel. That is why I putted the non-foulers on.

[MP3Architect]

no, why would you get a CEL from when the exhaust is going where its supposed to. i just figured that if the o2 sensor did get anything itd freak out
because your cutout would be replacing your first cat (or at least it does in my setup). So when closed you would be missing a cat.

[MP3Architect]

and how can you throw a cel running lean? wouldn't you throw a cel idleing then?

[mazdaspeed/se-r]

Well i run open s-pipe because the performance is dyno proven, plus i love the way it sounds, loud yes but worth it even more. cops where i live dont care, i just ease the throttle when i see one anyways and its pretty quiet, neways my cel came on when i started running that way for the reason the O2 sensor isnt reading any exhaust gasses at all. The code it throws is 02 not reading. It doesnt make the car run bad at all. in fact my gas milage is higher than most at around 32 intown and ive gotten 41mpg on the highway usually averaging 38-39mpg. Now if you unplug the o2 sensor then yes you will throw a code and the car will run like crap because it will think there is a malfunction in the system causing the o2 not sending a signal back to the ecu.

[BoOsTiN]

try this guy...

http://atpturbo.com/root/releases/release091004.htm

[Velocifero]

try this guy...

http://atpturbo.com/root/releases/release091004.htm
alot of DSM guys use these, I wouldn't unless you wanted it open a lot. It opens when you go into boost. having an electronic controller gives you a lot more freedom to have it loud or quite when you want. I perfer the sound of the cutout under small loads anyways, but if it opened every time I went to boost, I dont know how long I coul take that. Plus that would draw a lot of unwanted attention.

[AFaceInTheCrowd]

you know i was thinking of using an electronic cutout to utilize an open wastegate dump tube. with the cutout closed, the wastegate would dump back into the exhaust system. with it open, it would go to atmosphere.

[Alejo_NIN]

gosh, makes me wanna have this

i think my next mod, after getting the hard pipes done properly, is an exhaust cut off, i think is cheaper than expending 600$ for a full racing exhaust...and that way i can put a muffler back in my car and have a quiet baby when not racing

:)

[Puckpimp71]

:-) If I can ever make it to a meet, I'll be happy to show you mine. I love it.

[cmahlig]

subn

[503MSP]

so does the cut out go right after the cat? and if so does this mean you can buy a mid-pipe from somewhere and put the cut-out on right after it?

if that is possible to me that is similiar to buying a 3" exhaust for almost half the price

[Velocifero]

so does the cut out go right after the cat? and if so does this mean you can buy a mid-pipe from somewhere and put the cut-out on right after it?

if that is possible to me that is similiar to buying a 3" exhaust for almost half the price
I have 3" exhaust and just recently put a cutout on it. I noticed a large difference so I would say that they aren't too similar.

[MP3Architect]

so does the cut out go right after the cat? and if so does this mean you can buy a mid-pipe from somewhere and put the cut-out on right after it?

if that is possible to me that is similiar to buying a 3" exhaust for almost half the price
no its not similar. i put my cutout right where my first cat goes. the point of a cut out is to get the air out asap! least resistance possible. even a 3" strait pipe will have more resistance. not too much mid you but it will. and of course any cats, resonator, muffler, etc will resist the air flow as well.

[jeremyfl]

Anyone have an answer for this. What size cutout would you need for stock set up??



i think i am going to have the shop do this.. better then spending 1200 on an exhaust.. ha ha now do you think i should get teh S and jpipe aftermarket? or say forget it and just leave those stock? thats my next decision.. i want the exhaust cutout.. but THe S and J pipe.. what to do what to do

[JOMO]

I'll be getting this soon. Iv'e wanted one for a while now.

Now, when I ran open dp before my stock motor blew, I noticed that my boost raised about 1-1 1/2 psi. Any of you experiencing this kind of spike with the cutout.

[SpeedBeaver]

Anyone have an answer for this. What size cutout would you need for stock set up??
Stock setup is 2¼", but I replaced the midpipe with a 2½" since I was at it... That way I can put the oem midpipe back for the winter so the salt and calcium won't damage the cutout.

[SpeedBeaver]

I'll be getting this soon. Iv'e wanted one for a while now.

Now, when I ran open dp before my stock motor blew, I noticed that my boost raised about 1-1 1/2 psi. Any of you experiencing this kind of spike with the cutout. 0.5 psi in my case...

[jeremyfl]

Thanks beaver, I dont believe they have a cutout for 2 1/4, guess i will see what midpipe in 2.5 costs. Thanks again for the help.


Stock setup is 2¼", but I replaced the midpipe with a 2½" since I was at it... That way I can put the oem midpipe back for the winter so the salt and calcium won't damage the cutout.

[SpeedBeaver]

Thanks beaver, I dont believe they have a cutout for 2 1/4, guess i will see what midpipe in 2.5 costs. Thanks again for the help.
QTP has a 2¼" but In my opinion, I would go for a 2½"

[jeremyfl]

I have not checked the site, I am looking for bang for the buck. If i do a 2.5 cut out I also need a midpipe in 2.5 where as if i go with 2.25 then i can use the stock equipment and just buy the cut out. Also can .25 really make that much of a performance diff.

[cosmo420]

has anybody seen the cut out from ATP? I beleive it works off vacum it opens when you are on full throttle and stays closed if you are driving around town, until you crack it and it opens up.

[cosmo420]

try this guy...

http://atpturbo.com/root/releases/release091004.htm
Oops it looks like someone beat me to it

[tekkie]

love my 3" qtp :)

[sbowers22]

can anyone provide a pic please, Are you guys replacing the first cat with a mid pipe and installing the cut out there or what.

[VA03Speed]

I have a q-tech that I am trying to sell for $140 shipped and it is brand new in box never been used. It is a 3'' inch cutout.

[Myspeed12]

what kind of rims do you have? Sorry for off topic just wanted to know

[Myspeed12]

i was referring to
vao3speed

[VA03Speed]

Raze R24 got them from www.edgeracing.com. But I have a 3 inch q-tech with the electronic flange for $140 if anyone is interested in getting one. The reason for getting rid of it is that I bought a 3 inch tb GHL and I am happy with that and the box just opened to see what it looked like then put away only had it for a couple of months. I just need to get rid of it to pay some bills with the money.

[503MSP]

i know it defeats the purpose of having a cut-out but then what do you guys think there would be any benefits if you were to put it right after a catted mid-pipe. Would it be the same has having a j-pipe back exhaust on command with and electric cut-out?

[Myspeed12]

So for the MSP the 2.25 cutout from QTEC fit?

[LinuxRacr]

I'm actually thinking about one of these now...

[chaos2015]

i know it defeats the purpose of having a cut-out but then what do you guys think there would be any benefits if you were to put it right after a catted mid-pipe. Would it be the same has having a j-pipe back exhaust on command with and electric cut-out?
i have a catless midpipe with a cutout running to the stock axleback, and i gained 10 whp on the dyno running it open. so yes is u have a restricive muffler

[MSP403]

Another questions to those with cut-outs....Do you see a psi change common when installing just a 3' catback associated with the cut-out? I would think less backpressure would result in maybe a minute psi increase???

[Yellow MSP]

Another questions to those with cut-outs....Do you see a psi change common when installing just a 3' catback associated with the cut-out? I would think less backpressure would result in maybe a minute psi increase???

In a N/A car, backpressure is certainly something that needs to be considered. However, if you are turbo, the turbo is the biggest source of backpressure you will ever need! Think about it, the turbo itself would be a huge restriction if it wasn't giving back the extra power. How do you think some cars exhausts end right after the downpipe? So, you should not see any real difference in PSI, just a sigh of relief that your car can now breath like it was supposed to.

[Myspeed12]

I just got my QTP, im excited to have this on, but Dont know how to set it up does anybody have an install guide or something.

[protegeric]

depending on the size of the turbo and how close the cutout is to the turbo (i gess piping size would also be a factor), a cutout could do harm to a turbo. so sure there are advantages, but the turbo might be unhappy. a good rule is put the cutout as close to the firewall as possible if u have room. if u dont have room, then ehh... just put it where u have room.
heers somethin that sound like a good idea... maybe? http://www.sptimes.com/2005/09/28/Tampabay/Nitrogen_in_your_tire.shtml


In a N/A car, backpressure is certainly something that needs to be considered. However, if you are turbo, the turbo is the biggest source of backpressure you will ever need! Think about it, the turbo itself would be a huge restriction if it wasn't giving back the extra power. How do you think some cars exhausts end right after the downpipe? So, you should not see any real difference in PSI, just a sigh of relief that your car can now breath like it was supposed to.

[Myspeed12]

where is everybodys switch located

[protegeric]

my switch = crawling on the ground and taking off 3 wing-nuts... old scool it and get a cable operated! thats all 70`s.


where is everybodys switch located

[Myspeed12]

is there any way to put next to the lighting adjustment on the left side of the steering wheel

[chaos2015]

my switch = crawling on the ground and taking off 3 wing-nuts... old scool it and get a cable operated! thats all 70`s.
thats the same switch i have(first)

[MSP403]

Thanks YellowMsp... I was wondering if maybe te cat on say the vibrant would hold the turbo back a little?? I guess with a high flow exhaust the small restrictions due not matter if the trubo is flowing well enough... This mod is in my future for sure...

[Velocifero]

is there any way to put next to the lighting adjustment on the left side of the steering wheel
I put my switch in one of the blanks next to the dimmer

[Myspeed12]

yea velocifero, thats how i want my setup...how did you get it their? What does it took to have the swtich their?

[SpeedBeaver]

yea velocifero, thats how i want my setup...how did you get it their? What does it took to have the swtich their? 12v source, drill, welds, and patience.

Here's mine:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/Speedbeaver/Cutout/30.jpg

[Velocifero]

yea velocifero, thats how i want my setup...how did you get it their? What does it took to have the swtich their?
I have a different style switch than Beaver, that is one reason I went with DMH for my cutout. mine is a flat rocker, so it sits pretty flush and isn't really that noticable. I'll snap a picture for you when I get home, or if you want to PM me your phone number and can receive pics from a tmobile phone I could take a pic on the phone and send it to you. For mine I took out the blank to work on it at a bench, cut the appropriate hole (dremmel or drill works easiest), installed the swtich into the blank then ran the wiring through the firewall and through the opening for the blank, connected the wire and switch, reinstalled the blank (just pushed it back in), ran the wire coming through the firewall to where the cutout would be, then since I don't have the tools or knowledge to weld I had a trustworthy exhaust shop here weld my cutout in place. WE actually decided to remove the highflow cat from my vibrant and install the cutout there, he put flanges on the cutout and on the removed cat so I can always drop the cutout off and rebolt the cat for emmisions or any other problem. It is definetely easy to do the wiring and switch yourself, but if you don't weld then get a good shop to do it.

[Myspeed12]

ok mines is gonna look like speedbeaver most likely, so what 12v source did you use, and how did you get rid of the black looking things that is originally connected to the switch?

[Velocifero]

ok mines is gonna look like speedbeaver most likely, so what 12v source did you use, and how did you get rid of the black looking things that is originally connected to the switch?
Ignition, same wire I used for my turbo timer, it is a blue wire that is left of the steering column, there are two red wires, I need to look at them to tell you which one I used. not sure of what you mean by the black thing originally connected to the switch?

[LinuxRacr]

Can yall repost your videos? I didn't get to see them.

[SpeedBeaver]

My friend was hosting them but it seems he removed them. I'm going to ask him tomorrow to send me a copy and I'll post them.

[Myspeed12]

cause on the switch theres already a mount that is connected to the switch on speedbeaver it looks like he just drilled a whole and put the switch through their. theres a link below, when you look at the picture theres a swtich, and the black thing im reffering to is what its placed on.

http://shop.quicktimeperformance.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=11

[SpeedBeaver]

Ok, I found the fly-by video, I had to zip it so I can attach it.


Oh and, tunnels for the win! (first)

The camera car was actualy a 2001 mustang GT with a 3" catless, muffler-less exhaust so that gives you an idea of how loud the cutout can be.

[Velocifero]

cause on the switch theres already a mount that is connected to the switch on speedbeaver it looks like he just drilled a whole and put the switch through their. theres a link below, when you look at the picture theres a swtich, and the black thing im reffering to is what its placed on.

http://shop.quicktimeperformance.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=11
I understand now, that is the actual switch you are refering to, the trigger for the switch is the lever coming off the black box, the lever is the part you actaully move to open and close teh switch. I assume that the black box of teh switch is behind the blank, beaver drilled a hole through the blank, then there is a small nut that comes off around the lever and you twist it off, put the lever through the backside and coming into the cabin, then you spin that nut back down and it holds the switch in place. Unless it uses some other type of system, I have seen switches like that for fogs and what not.

[Velocifero]

Here is my switch:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Velocifero/switch.JPG



I will need to work on getting my video back up from home later today.

[Myspeed12]

i see so basically just drilling a hole so the switch can fit in

[Myspeed12]

i see so basically just drilling a hole so the switch can fit in

[Velocifero]

i see so basically just drilling a hole so the switch can fit in
as far as I can tell from the pictures. Speedbeaver, any comment?

[SpeedBeaver]

as far as I can tell from the pictures. Speedbeaver, any comment? Yes, just drill a hole.

Personally I didn't even used a drill. If you go too quickly with a drill you'll end up breaking the plastic. What I used was an electric welder with a really sharp tip. So I melted the hole and the plastic didn't broke in multiple peices.

Then you just have to put the switch on, through the back, and screw the nut on the front.


Tip: do that in a well ventilated place... the fumes can get to you really quick and make you dizzy.... (stoned)

[SeR_Cyclops]

so they are a good idea? and what was that about it hurting your turbo? i want to get one and i was wondering where to put it? and is it a good buy?

[SpeedBeaver]

so they are a good idea? and what was that about it hurting your turbo? i want to get one and i was wondering where to put it? and is it a good buy?

What I did on my car:

I took the stock midpipe out and I had a new one custom made.
I replaced the cat closest to the downpipe by the exhaust cutout and the second one by a high-flow cat. I also putted non-foulers on the oxygen sensor so I don't get a CEL.

Result: closed - I sound bone stock. opened - well, you heard what it sounded like in the video above (glare)

And hurting the turbo??? First time I heard of it. The only thing that you might get is maybe 0.5 to 1.0 psi more boost when opened due to the backpressure loss. Just be sure not to spike above 9.5psi to be safe and you won't have any troubble.

You might also notice that the torque is slightly less in the lower rpms but there is going to be significant increase in the higher rpm range. Also, instant spool when you hit the throttle in 2nd gear.

To me It's only positive: all of the advantages of a downpipe-back, whithout the drawbacks of getting tickets for a loud exhaust. And of course, you could get everything done for about $300-$350 (if you put in a high-flow cat) vs $750+ for a downpipe-back.

[Myspeed12]

speedbeaver do you think you can help me out with the electrical part, how did you wire it from the cutout to the switch?

[SpeedBeaver]

speedbeaver do you think you can help me out with the electrical part, how did you wire it from the cutout to the switch?
What I did: I tapped into the fog light harness. Maybe that wasn't the best idea because for the switch to have current, the headlight switch need to be turned on and the dimmer need to be at zero (when I tested the juice I unplugged the dimmer switch so I didn't realized that it would be less than 12v if that switch was on).

Honestly, if I had to redo it all over, I would find another STABLE source to tap into. But on the plus side: when I go to the dealer I'm not worried that the mechanics will play with the cutout since they won't know how to get the juice to it.


Volcifero probably found a more reliable current source than I did.

[Myspeed12]

well I dont have the MSP 2003 I have the 03.5 so it didnt come with foglights

[SpeedBeaver]

well I dont have the MSP 2003 I have the 03.5 so it didnt come with foglights
In that case, tapping into the dimmer wires could be a good choice.

[Myspeed12]

but at night would the dimmer stay bright or will it turn off?

[Myspeed12]

is their any other sources that it can connect to?

[Velocifero]

is their any other sources that it can connect to?
ignition, no problems there and I have my cut out and turbo timer off it. I'll post up a pic tomorrow and a video of the cutout.

[SpeedBeaver]

but at night would the dimmer stay bright or will it turn off?
You can manually ajust the dimmer. That's not a problem.

But if I had to redo it, I'd use the ignition wires.

[Myspeed12]

ok...so ill just use the ignition wires...velocifero said he'll post up some pics on how to do this

[Kansei]

I just drove a car last night with a 3" electronic cutout and it wasn't at all loud. T3, 11-12psi, fast as hell, and much quieter than my Racing beat catback + mam catted midpipe + ractive header protege. He has the stock exhaust hooked up to the other side of the cutout so um yeah with it closed it's at least 60whp power loss but it's nearly silent at full throttle and still much faster than my protege. I was shocked at how much a turbo quiets things down.

[Velocifero]

ok...so ill just use the ignition wires...velocifero said he'll post up some pics on how to do this
yeah, its raining pretty hard here right now, so I can't take the pics here at work, but when I get home for sure.

[LinuxRacr]

I just drove a car last night with a 3" electronic cutout and it wasn't at all loud. T3, 11-12psi, fast as hell, and much quieter than my Racing beat catback + mam catted midpipe + ractive header protege. He has the stock exhaust hooked up to the other side of the cutout so um yeah with it closed it's at least 60whp power loss but it's nearly silent at full throttle and still much faster than my protege. I was shocked at how much a turbo quiets things down.

What kind of car?

[Kansei]

What kind of car?

Pontiac Sunbird GT Turbo Convertible :P :P. Came stock with a t25 nonintercooled @ 4psi lolz.

[VA03Speed]

I have a q-tech that I am trying to sell for $140 shipped and it is brand new in box never been used. It is a 3'' inch cutout.

[SergMSP]

I have a q-tech that I am trying to sell for $140 shipped and it is brand new in box never been used. It is a 3'' inch cutout.
if i have the 2.5" apexi downpipe + catted mid, where does the cutout go?

[Kansei]

^^ I've heard the q-techs are good too, good luck with the sale.. it would be pointless for me to get one because I'd put the cutout after my cat.. I won't go catless, no way no how.

[LinuxRacr]

I have a q-tech that I am trying to sell for $140 shipped and it is brand new in box never been used. It is a 3'' inch cutout.

Got link?

[SergMSP]

^^ I've heard the q-techs are good too, good luck with the sale.. it would be pointless for me to get one because I'd put the cutout after my cat.. I won't go catless, no way no how.

is it possible to put it before the cat? or does the qtec require a catless exhaust system no matter what?

[Kansei]

Yeah I would assume 99% of people would put it before the cat.

[SpeedBeaver]

Yeah I would assume 99% of people would put it before the cat.
Yup, the less restriction you have, the more power you get. For turbo that is, N/A cars have to keep some backpressure.

[Myspeed12]

how do you get to the blank next to the dimmer

[Myspeed12]

bump

[Myspeed12]

what does the ignition wire look like?any is there any way of tapping into a wire with out splicing it?Theres two wires that are with the qtec its black and red which is which?

[Velocifero]

what does the ignition wire look like?any is there any way of tapping into a wire with out splicing it?Theres two wires that are with the qtec its black and red which is which?
sorry, yesterday was a weather nightmare and I just got off work today, you still need assistance?
there are two blue wires and two red wires for ignition, you want one of the blue wires. You don't want to cut the wire! you want to buy the connections that just splice around the existing wire, no cutting involved. the red qtec wire is your power and black is your ground, just bolt that one to the chassis under the dash somewhere.

[Myspeed12]

do you have any pictures of the install, im a visual type of person..that would help

[Myspeed12]

and where do i buy the connections that splice around the wire?

[Kansei]

and where do i buy the connections that splice around the wire?

Any auto parts store.. in the aisle with light bulbs and fuses and crap.

[Velocifero]

up loading some pics, just a minute

[Velocifero]

first pic is the drop down panel under the steering wheel, self explainitory
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Velocifero/cutout/switch%20002.jpg

second pic is looking up between the steering column and the yellow arrow is the blue wire I want you to use, you can see my tap there. The red arrow is just there to say there is another blue wire towards the back of this bundle.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Velocifero/cutout/switch%20005.jpg

third pic is where to run the wire to take it to the cutout under the car. this is the driverside firewall grommet. The blue line is the clutch pedal to use for reference, the yellow arrow is the stock msp sub enclosure constant power wire, again for reference, the red circle is circling teh grommet that you are going to push your wire through. You can just force it through with a screw driver or I actually had to pull the grommet into the car and pass a large component through then replaced the grommet, the grey wire is the bundle of wires for my cutout.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Velocifero/cutout/switch%20003.jpg

Here is a picture of cheep wire splicers that don't require cutting the wire. These will work, but they aren't the greatest ones to get. I get mine from a auto electronics dealer so they are professional grade. This one isn't.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Velocifero/cutout/switch%20004.jpg

[Velocifero]

here is a poor, but informative video on popping the blanks out. I hate rapidshare but I used it anyways. click this link http://rapidshare.com/files/1076459/switch_006.avi

click on "FREE", wait for the 30 seconds or whatever, you'll see it counting down, then enter the code on the left usually like three letters/ numbers that are blurry, then click save

[Myspeed12]

that helps alot now I can use this for reference...in the third picture where it says push your wire through what do you mean by that?Is it just a hole thats free I can get to under my car?

[Myspeed12]

where do I put the black wire(which is the ground)?

[Velocifero]

the black wire is ground, and you can either loosen a bolt anywhere down there that is touching the chassis, or you can splice it to another grounded wire. usually they are the black wires, but if you find one you want to use, best to ask if it is alright. I used the ground for my turbo timer so I didn't need to find another spot, but there are plenty to choose from. the hoel that you are going to push the wore to comes out in the engine bay behind the battery against the wall there. you will see the black wire loom from that yellow amp power wire going through it, I can take another picture fo ryou if needed.

[Velocifero]

here is a poor quality video from my digital camera of the actual cutout. http://rapidshare.com/files/1079515/cutoutvids_002.avi.html
when I get time to edit my DV camcorder I'll make sure to put up teh better quality video then

[Myspeed12]

yea can you show me the black wire setup...or is their any way to get it to the cigarette lighter?

[SpeedBeaver]

yea can you show me the black wire setup...or is their any way to get it to the cigarette lighter?
You only have to use longer wires. Also, removing the center console can be quite a PITA if you don't know the trick. Easiest way possible:
push the two center vents all the way to the bottom(aming as low as possible) and use the gap created to grab firmly the center and pull it out. There is many fastenders (8 if I recall correctly). Beware not to pull too much before unplugging the different plugs and the ventilation controls.

[Myspeed12]

hahaha that sounds difficult speedbeaver, ill just use the black wires on the chassis if those are easier to get to, its just how to get to the black wires is now...im not sure about that part

[Velocifero]

hahaha that sounds difficult speedbeaver, ill just use the black wires on the chassis if those are easier to get to, its just how to get to the black wires is now...im not sure about that part
just pull some of the carpeting down a little and look around for any nuts or screws that are already attached to the floor board and wall. you will need to scuff up around the base of the bolt or whatever to insure you get a metal to metal connection, not metal to paint connection. beaver is right though that you will need to extend the wires unless you can distinguish a negative wire close to the switch

[Myspeed12]

so basically just connect the ground wire to any metal?i dont get it

[Velocifero]

so basically just connect the ground wire to any metal?i dont get it
your chasis is already grounded, if you follow all the ground wires from all the components in your car they will all attach to the chassis or block somewhere along the line. An easy example to find is the amplifier in the trunk, if you follow it's black ground wire you will see it only goes a couple inches to the sub deck bracket which is bolted to the chasis, direct line of attachment to the grounded chasis.

[SpeedBeaver]

FYI, I just removed my midpipe yesterday.

All the salt and calcium could badly damage the midpipe during winter so I won't take any chances.

I never realized that even closed the 2.5" midpipe gave that much gains. I'm already looking forward to Spring to put it back on.


I'm sad, my car is slowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww.....

[Myspeed12]

how much gains did it help?whp wise

[SpeedBeaver]

how much gains did it help?whp wise
Butt dyno says ±15whp

[Myspeed12]

hey speedbeaver how long did it take you to do the electrical part of the cutout

[Velocifero]

sorry MYspeed I am having difficulties gettting everything straight for you. I am in the process of laying hardwood flooring in my house as well in the middle of a battle with UPS over lost forged pistons, rods and a damaged expensively worked on crank. but I will get you there.

[Myspeed12]

no problem velocifero

[SpeedBeaver]

hey speedbeaver how long did it take you to do the electrical part of the cutout

I'd say a whole afternoon since I had no idea what wires to tap in, and how to remove the switch area. Personnaly, I prefer to take my sweet time than break something.

[Myspeed12]

if i mess up my splicing connection with my ignition, is their going to be a big problem?

[boostdprotegelx]

subbin.

[Velocifero]

if i mess up my splicing connection with my ignition, is their going to be a big problem?
as long as you don't cut entirely through the wire you should be just fine. I am working on those pictures for you too. If you want I can show you how to get to the lighter wires, but you will definetely need to extend the wires for that unless you want to mount the switch somewhere by the lighter.

[Myspeed12]

so would the switch of the cigarette lighter replace the idea of splicing the ignition wire, cause I dont really wanna splice my ignition wire, is their any other source?

[Myspeed12]

i would rather use the cigarette lighter as the 12v source and extend it

[Myspeed12]

i was bored so i was thinkin of doing the cig lighter as the ground and my radio fuse for the 12v source, is this possible?

[Velocifero]

as long as you know which one is which it sure will.

[niky]

How quickly does this open? Can you simulate the effect the ATP gives (only opening under positive boost) with an electric cut-out and MSD RPM activated solenoids?

[Velocifero]

you could if you just opened it right as you were boosting or right when you hit a certain RPM. Mine takes about one second to open completely. I didn't get a RPM or boost actuated one because I wanted to be able to open it whenever, or leave it closed whenever. If you have the actuated ones you can't really play around with it as much. It is fun to just open it up at low RPMs because you hear the turbo just spinning and it gets some looks.

How quickly does this open? Can you simulate the effect the ATP gives (only opening under positive boost) with an electric cut-out and MSD RPM activated solenoids?

[niky]

you could if you just opened it right as you were boosting or right when you hit a certain RPM. Mine takes about one second to open completely. I didn't get a RPM or boost actuated one because I wanted to be able to open it whenever, or leave it closed whenever. If you have the actuated ones you can't really play around with it as much. It is fun to just open it up at low RPMs because you hear the turbo just spinning and it gets some looks.

Darn... I was hoping to use it for an NA app, but putting it far up the pipe requires that it can be set to open at a certain rpm. Oh, well.. guess right before the muffler is my limit.

[505zoom]

Darn... I was hoping to use it for an NA app, but putting it far up the pipe requires that it can be set to open at a certain rpm...

Uhm, what?

[niky]

Uhm, what?

NA = no-turbo. Was hoping to place it after the midpipe and before the stock muffler and use an MSD Window switch to keep it closed below 4000 rpm. If it takes one or two seconds to open instead of a tenth of a second, it'll be too slow to respond. And if I leave it open all the time, no turbo = no torque at low rpms to make up for the lack of back pressure = teh suck.

My only other choice is to have it at the muffler, but if it's there, I can just use a screw-on cap. :)

I've got 90% of the bolt-ons I can do to the FS already, it's just that I need the stock muffler in place as my baby can't sleep in the back if I've got a big old fart can back there.

Oh well, go on with the turbo discussion... (peep)

[cmahlig]

i have a 3 inch downpipe and dont really want to weld into that. would i still benefit from a cutout after my downpipe

[Myspeed12]

I have the CDA-9855 and im using the power for my cutout to tap into the radio wire, does anybody know what color it is and to get to that wire?

[Velocifero]

I have the CDA-9855 and im using the power for my cutout to tap into the radio wire, does anybody know what color it is and to get to that wire?
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/500/500CDA9853.PDF
here is the manual, find out what color wire you need for your source, I'll look in the car for which wire you need and take a shot of a grounding point.

[Velocifero]

damn battery died, so it is charging. If you peel down teh carpeting on the passenger side you will see a large shint metal shield covering. This is covering your ECU. If you look to the top left or bottom left there are bolts connecting the shield to the chasis. You can ground on either of those bolts.
Another option would just be to use the radios ground. Black wire off the radio, I believe for your 12V source off the radio the wire is yellow or red, anybody else know which one would be better? I think the yellow is your Constant 12V memory wire and the red is switched, but I might be wrong, don't really remember because I always use a volt meter to check my wires when installing radios and that was awhile ago that I did mine.

[Myspeed12]

aww man that sucks, i believe its the red wire, i was doin some search to see which wire to use, but how do I get to that radio wire?

[Velocifero]

aww man that sucks, i believe its the red wire, i was doin some search to see which wire to use, but how do I get to that radio wire?
have you ever pulled a head unit out before? easiest way for me to do it is remove the small suround plastice from the radio and then if you have the keys to the head unit use those or if not you can use two butter knives, they insert down the sides of the radio and then you pull the whole thing out. pull it most of the way out, disconnect the wiring harness, antenae, rca connections and set the radio to the side while you work on the other wiring. pass the wires for the cutout through teh back behind the steering column reach through the radio hole and grab your wires pull them up and splice to appropriate wires. reconnect all the wires to the back of radio and slide radio back in, you might have to push it once it is mostly in to get it to lock back into its postion. replace the plastic trim. by plastic trim I am not referring to the cars plastice dash trim, i mean the small little ring of plastic surrounding just the radio, it should be the same color and texture as teh radio.

[Myspeed12]

ok perfect now i have a great idea of how to do this and alot of resources to make it right, do you know what size gauge are the stock wires so I can buy and extension for them?