Unispeed
08-29-2006, 08:23 PM
Do you ever get the feeling that once you hit 10 psi and stay there for a while the car gets kind of sluggish at first and then gets goind shortly thereafter. Well, you're right... If you are using a HBC that's exactly what's happening. On one of the nipples (the one on the wastegate side) there is a small hole. As long as the boost controller is closed you're fine, but once it opens up and lets the pressurized air go to the wastegate 2 things happen contemporarely.
1) Air hits the wastegate actuator causing the wastegate to open and bring boost back to the right ammount.
2) The small hole that I just talked about lets air out and effectively causes a boost leak anytime you go over the pressure limit set on your manual boost controller.
There is a wrong and a right way to fix this.
Wrong Way... Replace that nipple with one that does not have a hole.
Right way... Route the air that comes out of that pin sized hole back to the intake ( i used t's )
If you do it the wrong way what will happen will be that air will get stuck between the diaghphram in the wastegate actuator and the now hole-less nipple on the boost controller, which is effectively acting as a check-valve (one way valve). Eventually this will pressurize that short segment of tubing that connects the Boost controller to the wastegate actuator to the point that the wastegate will remail always open, even when not in boost.
By routing that small ammount of air back to the intake though you end up with a car that feels just as sharp at 10 psi as when you are at 4 psi.
Pictures will be up soon. Hope this can be of help.
1) Air hits the wastegate actuator causing the wastegate to open and bring boost back to the right ammount.
2) The small hole that I just talked about lets air out and effectively causes a boost leak anytime you go over the pressure limit set on your manual boost controller.
There is a wrong and a right way to fix this.
Wrong Way... Replace that nipple with one that does not have a hole.
Right way... Route the air that comes out of that pin sized hole back to the intake ( i used t's )
If you do it the wrong way what will happen will be that air will get stuck between the diaghphram in the wastegate actuator and the now hole-less nipple on the boost controller, which is effectively acting as a check-valve (one way valve). Eventually this will pressurize that short segment of tubing that connects the Boost controller to the wastegate actuator to the point that the wastegate will remail always open, even when not in boost.
By routing that small ammount of air back to the intake though you end up with a car that feels just as sharp at 10 psi as when you are at 4 psi.
Pictures will be up soon. Hope this can be of help.