forge b.o.v. problems. need help PLEASEEEE!

[mikesMSP12]

ok guys i just installed a forge bov in my car. everything is stock. but i rev it up and im getting no turkey gobbles or nothing! i am a little frustrated. and i switched to the green spring to see if that would owkr but still nothing. i have it in the right spot at the turbo to intercooler pipe, i used the silver stopper to block off the intake pipe too.so if u guys can tell me EVERYTHING you know about these and installation help me out.
ill apreciate any help!!!
thanks
mike

[jflo]

DID YOU HOOK UP A VACUUM SOURCE TO IT? ooops sorry all caps

[speedcicle]

ok guys i just installed a forge bov in my car. everything is stock. but i rev it up and im getting no turkey gobbles or nothing! i am a little frustrated. and i switched to the green spring to see if that would owkr but still nothing. i have it in the right spot at the turbo to intercooler pipe, i used the silver stopper to block off the intake pipe too.so if u guys can tell me EVERYTHING you know about these and installation help me out.
ill apreciate any help!!!
thanks
mike


Refer to the forge b.o.v installed pics thread in this same section. There are pics of the forge installed so you can see what it looks like.

[jflo]

also, go for a drive around the block real fast but don't go over 1 psi. drive with the windows up and the music off. if you installed the valve correctly you'll hear a kshhhh after every shift or throttle lift

[mikesMSP12]

ya ive put the vacumm line on. and all the pics look indentical to mine. i dont have a boost gauge so i cant see what psi im at though. any thing else perhaps

[jflo]

just drive a bit and see if you can hear it going off. if you bought the valve brand new, i doubt there's any problem with it. if you have the stock airbox on you won't hear much turkey. the only thing you should be hearing is the valve's kshhhhh.

also, the green spring should be in there since you're not boosting over 15psi

[mikesMSP12]

ya im all stock, i hooked it back up to the stock vacum source with new vacum lines to replace the shitty ones that broke when i was moving them..
would disconnecting the battery help any to reset the ecu.. cause i wanna hear the turkeyyy baddddand all my friends do.lol

[jflo]

you could try disconnecting the battery to clear the ECU i guess. if you want to elminate it completely you have to get some hardpipes. stock plastic pipes won't cut it 'cause they expand so much under boost

[mikesMSP12]

will a samco hose work with it?

[jflo]

will a samco hose work with it?

yes it will

[Jeph]

I'm confused why you even want to hear the turkey in the first place. Sure its a funny sound, but it makes the sound because the stock by-pass valve can't move enough air to keep the compressor from surging. It isn't a good sound... Most people get the forge BOV to run in conjunction with the stock BPV to STOP the turkey right?

[jflo]

i think he was saying that he couldn't get any sound out of the BOV, not particularly looking for the turkey

[patty AT forge]

Is this the valve that you have:
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=2002&product=FMDVMSP01

Try the leak test at the end of this pdf:
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/valve_service(1).pdf

[mikesMSP12]

yes that is the valve i bought.. but mine didnt come with an silicon vacum lines. are they supposed to? o well i gought new ones, ill try the leak test once it cools off a little cause i just got home from school

[mikesMSP12]

ok well i cleaned it and did the leak test.. still not hearing a single sound at all?

[ND4MSP]

Have you driven the car yet? I don't get much feedback from mine when the car is parked. Its also one of the quieter atmospheric bov's. You kinda need to get onto the throttle at stock boost to get a lot of feedback.

[mikesMSP12]

ya ive driven it like 4 or 5 times since i put it on.. i cant really hear anything. but i can deff. notice the throttle response and the faster spool times though. so i guess its working and i just need an aftermarket intake to notice it


Have you driven the car yet? I don't get much feedback from mine when the car is parked. Its also one of the quieter atmospheric bov's. You kinda need to get onto the throttle at stock boost to get a lot of feedback.

[Jeph]

i think he was saying that he couldn't get any sound out of the BOV, not particularly looking for the turkey

He DID want to hear the turkey...


cause i wanna hear the turkeyyy baddddand all my friends do.lol

[Jeph]

And if he is hearing no sound at all it is most likely it is stuck open because if it wasn't opening at the shifts he would hear the compressor surge even worse.

[patty AT forge]

A few things:
What spring do you have in the valve? You mentioned yours not having a silicon hose with it, so I assume that you either purchased it used or purchased a generic 004 instead of the MSP specific kit. We have springs rated for more than 30 psi, if one of those is in the valve it would only open a small amount at the boost that you are running if at all. You are going to need either the BLACK or the GREEN spring in your car.

You mentioned improved throttle response and spool, this would eliminate the possibility that the valve is stuck open and make it unlikely that the valve is stuck closed.

There are two pistons in this valve, the discharge piston and the idle piston. Each have their own spring and we have varying tensions for each. At idle the discharge piston will be pulled upwards by engine vacuum overcoming its spring, the idle pison is beneath the discharge piston with a spring sandwiched between the two. This spring pushes the idle piston downwards under vacuum (or very slight positive pressure) in the boost hoses to prevent a loss of metered air at idle. When shifting, the sudden vacuum in upped portion of the valve will pull the discharge piston upwards just like when at idle, this allows the idle spring to decompress thereby lowering its tension on the idle piston, at this point the charge air is pressurized and forces the idle piston up allowing the valve to vent. If the tension on that spring is to high the valve will not vent.

Sorry for the length of this post.

If you could send me some pics that would help out.

Give us a call at 407.447.5363 and ask for Patrick, its usually easier to handle this sort of thing on the phone.

[mikesMSP12]

i had a freind give it some gas when i looked at it under the hood. and i could see the silver piston move up and down as he let off the gas.. but is the second pison black? becaus ei only have one spring in the valve and its the green one?


A few things:
What spring do you have in the valve? You mentioned yours not having a silicon hose with it, so I assume that you either purchased it used or purchased a generic 004 instead of the MSP specific kit. We have springs rated for more than 30 psi, if one of those is in the valve it would only open a small amount at the boost that you are running if at all. You are going to need either the BLACK or the GREEN spring in your car.

You mentioned improved throttle response and spool, this would eliminate the possibility that the valve is stuck open and make it unlikely that the valve is stuck closed.

There are two pistons in this valve, the discharge piston and the idle piston. Each have their own spring and we have varying tensions for each. At idle the discharge piston will be pulled upwards by engine vacuum overcoming its spring, the idle pison is beneath the discharge piston with a spring sandwiched between the two. This spring pushes the idle piston downwards under vacuum (or very slight positive pressure) in the boost hoses to prevent a loss of metered air at idle. When shifting, the sudden vacuum in upped portion of the valve will pull the discharge piston upwards just like when at idle, this allows the idle spring to decompress thereby lowering its tension on the idle piston, at this point the charge air is pressurized and forces the idle piston up allowing the valve to vent. If the tension on that spring is to high the valve will not vent.

Sorry for the length of this post.

If you could send me some pics that would help out.

Give us a call at 407.447.5363 and ask for Patrick, its usually easier to handle this sort of thing on the phone.

[patty AT forge]

i had a freind give it some gas when i looked at it under the hood. and i could see the silver piston move up and down as he let off the gas.. but is the second pison black? becaus ei only have one spring in the valve and its the green one?


The second piston is a small black plastic disk, there should be a small spring between that piston and the aluminum one. I've sent you an email with cut-away pics of our single and double piston valves to help determine what it is that you have. Do you have the part number from where you bought it?

[Pyr0TeK]

I have a question also.. I just bought a polished Forge BOV on this forum. It is in mint condition. It came with the spring kit also. I took it apart to see what spring was in it and unless my eyes are tricking me, I could swear I have two yellow springs that look 100% identical. Is this green spring actually green or is it really close to the yellow color? Also, I am running the stock plastic turbo pipes with an Injen CAI. I have the Injen capped off on the loop side and the vac line attached to the top of the BOV just like where the stock bypass valve was connected. I still get tons of turkey, maybe even more now than before, and if I gas it and let off real quick while driving I can make it stall. What do you guys think I should do? I am going to replace all vac lines today when i get off (again). What causes the idle to drop so far it wants to stall after you gas it and let off real quick... I have stalled it twice since yesterday but I see others on here that don't have that problem. I do see some using the SAMCO silicone pipe... does that make that much of a difference? I want to go hardpipes but damn they are expensive... even thought about fabing my own.

Any suggestions well appreciated...

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Pyr0TeK/082506-Forge.BOV/Forge-01.jpg

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Pyr0TeK/082506-Forge.BOV/Forge-02.jpg

[mikesMSP12]

ok well i decided to go back to stock cause i didnt want to deal with all of the stalling issues.. runs perfect now im just waiting to get hard pipes and intake

[mikesMSP12]

the sudden drop is caused by the maf measuring the air to see how much fuel to put in the compression chamber.. but when the bov lets off it releases alot of the air so it has the wrong amount of air/fuel mixture.. thats why im gonna try and sell mine and buy a recurculating bov
edit: or and try and make ur vac lines as short as possible without creasing that will get rid of some turkey



I have a question also.. I just bought a polished Forge BOV on this forum. It is in mint condition. It came with the spring kit also. I took it apart to see what spring was in it and unless my eyes are tricking me, I could swear I have two yellow springs that look 100% identical. Is this green spring actually green or is it really close to the yellow color? Also, I am running the stock plastic turbo pipes with an Injen CAI. I have the Injen capped off on the loop side and the vac line attached to the top of the BOV just like where the stock bypass valve was connected. I still get tons of turkey, maybe even more now than before, and if I gas it and let off real quick while driving I can make it stall. What do you guys think I should do? I am going to replace all vac lines today when i get off (again). What causes the idle to drop so far it wants to stall after you gas it and let off real quick... I have stalled it twice since yesterday but I see others on here that don't have that problem. I do see some using the SAMCO silicone pipe... does that make that much of a difference? I want to go hardpipes but damn they are expensive... even thought about fabing my own.

Any suggestions well appreciated...

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Pyr0TeK/082506-Forge.BOV/Forge-01.jpg

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Pyr0TeK/082506-Forge.BOV/Forge-02.jpg

[Pyr0TeK]

I just redid my vac lines Friday... they can't possibly be any shorter. Real clean now all the way to the wastegate. Forge sent me 4 new springs to use. Ones others don't have yet. I am sort of R&D for this BOV. One spring they are sending me is for the idle spring. He thinks the idle spring needs to be a bit stronger to help the BOV recover after boost and close more solid. Should be here tomorrow.

the sudden drop is caused by the maf measuring the air to see how much fuel to put in the compression chamber.. but when the bov lets off it releases alot of the air so it has the wrong amount of air/fuel mixture.. thats why im gonna try and sell mine and buy a recurculating bov
edit: or and try and make ur vac lines as short as possible without creasing that will get rid of some turkey

[Pyr0TeK]

Patrick, I got the springs today (thanks!) and I am now running the green spring (which I do not think I had before) and the +25 idle spring. I think I may have a small leak in the hot pipe nipple so I epoxied it some more until I get afford a new hot pipe. I am going to take it for a spin in a bit and I'll post what the idle does. What will the black spring do? That one is shorter and much more limber... should I try that one also if I don't see much improvement? It seems to me that you would not want it constantly blowing off or am I incorrect? Hell I probably will call you tomorrow to get the full details so I am on the same page... thanks again for all your help thus far.

[Pyr0TeK]

Ok idle is still not right... idles low if I rev up to 4k+ rpms... lower than before... here is a clip of what I would like mine to sound like but I do not currently get much of a swoosh etc like in this clip...

[Pyr0TeK]

Spent 3 hours on it tonight and ended up going back to my stock BPV until I can find a solution for this.

[mgerst1]

subbin

[Jboost]

this is 2 years old good luck with any new info coming out of this.

[mgerst1]

^ i know i just wanted it in my subscribed threads because i just got a forge bov

[carbonkid]

me too...^^