Well guys, doing custom fmic setup next weekend

[mazdaspeed/se-r]

Just got all my stuff on order, 31x12x3 intercooler, yes im cutting the bumper and removing the bumper support, it will look clean, 2.5" diy piping kit, 2.5 pipe with turbo xs rfl flange, and 2 2.5"-3" couplers for intercooler inlet and outlet. Its going to fill the whole front end. should look mean as heck. Ill be running the maf on the pressure side pipe since thats the way to go now. Ill be running 10psi once that goes on, oh and custom intake straight over into the wheel well. Should kick nicely especially when the temps here are 110+ and still almost 100 at night. even bigger gain when it starts to cool down, i will defenetly get pics up, i havent seen anyone do one this big on their msp yet so it will be a little different which is nice, let me know what you guys think of the setup, oh and i got everything for under 300.00. t bolt clamps for the piping also. how bout that for price.

ps: anyone want the stock intercooler setup off my car once its done. if so pm me. thanks

[Orlandoech]

sounds nice post pics asap!

[69RMSP]

overkill no?

[mazdaspeed/se-r]

not really. it really doesnt make a difference but i just wanted to go that route.

[jmv]

well it certainly could be overkill, the bigger intercooler will lend itself to greater pressure drop, and even though you won't nessesarily see cooling gains over an intercooler of "x" size, which would most likely have less pressure drop. I'm not saying that it is, but that it could be.

[mazdaspeed/se-r]

well thats why it helps to get stats on the intercooler. the pressure drop at 8-10psi was only .2psi which isnt bad and about the same for most bar and plate intercoolers. cant be worse than the pressure drop from the stock crappy intercooler which is alot worse probably 1psi or more from what ive heard. Thats why just doing that, the boost should go from 8.5 to close to 10psi just doing the fmic and hardpipes. We'll see what happens. ill let everyone know how it works out and what the butt dyno says, haha

[dirtysouth_msp]

well thats why it helps to get stats on the intercooler. the pressure drop at 8-10psi was only .2psi which isnt bad and about the same for most bar and plate intercoolers. cant be worse than the pressure drop from the stock crappy intercooler which is alot worse probably 1psi or more from what ive heard. Thats why just doing that, the boost should go from 8.5 to close to 10psi just doing the fmic and hardpipes. We'll see what happens. ill let everyone know how it works out and what the butt dyno says, haha

You'll probably get some more hesitation, because it will take a lil longer to fill that huge intercooler with boost pressure.

[ZenProtege]

Your going have a hell of a time getting that core to fit...I hope the endtanks on your IC are nicely placed as well. I foresee you having two major problems: The first is going to be with routing the IC piping around the two lower foglights (03)/or plastic mesh (03.5) inlets on your bumper. If your unfamiliar with that area of your bumper now, you will soon be....lol...that 2.5" piping is overkill for the amount of boost you'll be running, however it may play in your favor some. If the setup your fabricating requires you to make some very sharp bends, the larger diameter piping will aid in reducing turbulance. On the other hand, that large of piping will be a PITA to route!I built my own front mount setup and I'm very familiar with the task at hand. It was arduous enough for me to route 2" piping throughout the speed's engine bay to a smaller core. I can't imagine routing 2.5" piping off a core with outlets that have 6" or less of clearence from the recessed points in the bumper. ......... Just be persistant and give yourself a few days to do the project. It may be a headache to make it all work, but it will be worth it in the end.

[mazdaspeed/se-r]

well im cutting the bumper out so that the total opening of the mouth of the bumper is 9" tall. It should look clean. there will be no bumper support. my model doesnt have fog lights, the stock black mesh is coming out, also all the bottom clips on the underside bottom front of the bumper is all getting trimmed off. the piping is going to route on top of the intercooler and u bend to the inlet and the outlet will go over and up through the drivers side fender well hole next to the coolant bottle and almost straight over to the intake, thats the shortest route piping possible and yes i made sure it will fit, im very familiar with my car, heck i work on them every day, im a tech for a mazda dealer, i know what i have to do to do it and i will make it look very clean. Yes i understand there could be a little more lag on the turbo spool but the stock intercooler and intake is restrictive enough to cause serious lag anyways, im still running the stock intake piping right now but when i do the fmic im making a short ram intake that goes right straight over next to the fender well. It should be very clean and a good setup thats different, i will defenetly get pics up and let you know on the gains and feel of the new setup compared to old.

[Alejo_NIN]

you better fukcing take pictures!!!

arrghh, i wanna do mine so bad...

[Maxx Mazda]

2.5" piping is too big man. I dabbled in a custom FMIC setup myself for a bit, but 2.5" will move your powerband WAY up so that you won't come on boost until like 5000RPM. The little T25 simply can't pressurize all that piping fast enough. Same with that HUGE IC core. I have a 24x6x2.5 on mine and it's more than enough man... Intake temps are nice and cool!

I drove viral_override's turbo P5 last summer, and he had huge piping like that, and it seriously didn't boost until 5000 RPM, and he had a bigger turbo than the T25.

[CitizenPro]

^ ouch!

[Alejo_NIN]

2.5" piping is too big man. I dabbled in a custom FMIC setup myself for a bit, but 2.5" will move your powerband WAY up so that you won't come on boost until like 5000RPM. The little T25 simply can't pressurize all that piping fast enough. Same with that HUGE IC core. I have a 24x6x2.5 on mine and it's more than enough man... Intake temps are nice and cool!

I drove viral_override's turbo P5 last summer, and he had huge piping like that, and it seriously didn't boost until 5000 RPM, and he had a bigger turbo than the T25.
i agree, 2.5 is overkille...
2.25 MAX and 2.0 ideal

but, the question is, is he planning on upgrading the turbo later down the road?? coz by then, he'll be able to use the big piping...

if you haven;t purchased the piping, better get 2.25...

that's the reason why 2.5 and 2.75 and 3.0 are so FRIGGING cheap on ebay..because the only people who would buy are Supra guys....and supra guys have money...and supra guys go to custom shops and pay big money..they don't ghetto-rig anything...

think about it...

[Maxx Mazda]

THere is a formula that I forgot, but going from 2" to 2.5" piping can be like adding an extra 2L or something like that of airspace that the turbo has to pressurize before the boost reaches the manifold.

[mazdaspeed/se-r]

well i do plan on doing upgraded turbo and manifold down the road along with a built motor. so yes it does benefit. but my friends 240sx with sr20det swap runs 2.5" piping and the same size intercooler im getting and he has a t25 also, he has no problems with his and actually hit full boost ealier than the stock silvia piping and intercooler. so yes there is more space that the turbo has to fill but it gets filled quick. There is a chance that spoolup or full boost could take a little longer but also because right now im running the stock intake also its hard to tell how its going to react. i mean if i had an intake on there right now then yeah you could say it will more than likely raise spool time since the intake lowers spool time significanly. but since im doing both i probably wont feel any diffence in spoolup.

dont get me wrong, you guys are correct when saying its more space for the turbo to fill but it fills quick. and with the modifications im doing compared to what im running now. the topend power will be insane diffence but spoolup will probably be close to the same, i will defenely let you guys know how it goes and gains and stats on it. Im putting it in saturday. Later guys

[ZenProtege]

^ I agree with you. IF the IC piping had no air inside it to begin with, there would be a significant amount of time before the car could reach full boost. Seeing as there is already air in the piping, and that the turbo just has to push it towards the engine to make pressure, there is much less. I doubt that extra cubic foot or so of air inside your piping will set you back more than somebody else who was 2" piping and foot or more of it on their setup.

I guess a good comparison can be seen with a garden hose . If you turned on the water for a garden hose and only air is inside of the hose at that time, there is a delay before there's any water pressure at the nozzle on the end. If the hose is already filled with water on the inside, once you cut on the hose there would be little delay before there is pressure at the nozzle on the end.
So if you cut on a 3/4" and a 1" diameter hose that are both already filled with water, how much longer will it take the 1" hose to have water pressure at the end compared to the 3/4"? my guess is probably not too much longer...I'd like to see pics

[mazdaspeed/se-r]

yeah i defenitly agree, i have several friends running way bigger piping and intercooler than they need, but hey its still efficient and they still reach full boost well before 3000rpms, right now i reach full 8.5psi at about 2700rpms, we will see what it hits 10psi full boost at when im done, but its not going to be done till next week, i messed the tranny up this morning, shifted into third and when i let the clutch out and gave it some gas it poped and the only gear i could get it into was fourth gear and then i stopped and i could get it to go into all the gears but if i wasnt in fourth it wouldnt move, being the tranny was locked in fourth gear, even with the shifter in neutral it was in fourth still, it wouldnt disengage fourth gear, im thinking either the shift fork for fourth either mis aligned or broke, i dont hear any rattling parts in the tranny and i can still drive it in fourth, but right now the cars at my work being i work at mazda, i still have 5k miles left on my extended warrany, sitting at 79998 miles. so the tranny will be getting completely rebuilt with all new gears, syncros, bearing and forks. which im kinda glad it went out completely now because i had a third gear grind for a while now and i wasnt going to fix it cuz it wasnt too bad, but now its all going to be fixed and i will be doing the fmic all at the same time now. so i will still have some pics up by next week hopefully. Keep a look out, the fmic is freakin huge. but its going to look sweet.

[jmv]

sounds like the exact same problem which happened to me, broken shift fork

[mazdaspeed/se-r]

yeah it sucks, im just waiting to hear back from the warranty company, the inspector came today, hes the only one in my city that does inspections for extended warranty companies, we know him really well and he was cool about everything, just took his pics and verified the problem, and called it into the company to say its legit. so there shouldnt be any problems, just have to pay 100.00 deductable. Oh well, at least now i get a fresh new tranny, and a nice fmic setup. later guys and i will keep you guys posted, i will try and take pics of the damage to the tranny as well.