My First Oil Change

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[InFlames]

*note to self, never change oil on CX-7*

[1Sleepy93]

Oh joy. Least it more then makes up for all that effort in driving enjoyment.

[varek]

I THOUGHT YOU HAD THE MAZDA FIVE YEAR GOLD WARRANTY PROGRAM THAT INCLUDES OIL CHANGES UP TO 50,000 MILES WITH THE DEALER?
I CURRENTLY HAVE THE GOLD SERVICE PROGRAM AND IT INCLUDES SERVICE CHECK-UP AND REPLACEMENTS PARTS THAT ARE IN NEED OF CHANGE AFTER CERTAIN MILES OF USAGE.(drive2)

[G-Papi]

*note to self, never change oil on CX-7*

Ditto

Nothing worse than getting under a car, and then finding out that you've got to go and get something.

Definitely not a Jiffy Lube job either!

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[1Sleepy93]

I usually don't let anyone do my changes for me either. I just don't trust them to do it right.

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[TheMAN]

it's not only recommended by you, but required by mazda at the dealerships... there is a TSB released specfically stating you must use a cap type oil filter wrench to R&R the oil filter cover

[chasmanz28]

I strongly suggest that everyone have one of those oil filter covers on standby as a spare part, whether they change their own oil or not. Obviously, no mechanic will tell you that he broke the thing, but I can envision them coming up to you and saying, "you're gonna need a new oil filter cover, this one has a crack in it." (or stripped threads, or a leak, or is broken) And even a Mazda dealer might not have one in stock when you need it.is there an aftermarket filter you can buy, like K&N? or is it a special filter only from the dealership

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[Zoom49]

Is there an aftermarket filter you can buy?

Ready for my oil change, First change today by Mazda at no charge 3,200 mi.
Next change by me @ 6,000 with switch to synthetic. Purolator lists the standard L15505 as well PureONE PL15505 which come with new cover o-ring and o-ring for the drain plug. As noted earlier you should have a cap wrench for the plastic canister cap. There seems to be a bit of confusion if the size is a 74 or 76mm. I will try the 74mm size this weekend to make sure I bought the right one.

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[lllateralus]

Man, oil changes on the CX-7 SUCK!!!! I dont think ill be doing it again.
Thanks to the thread starter for the info though.

[Z_Monzter]

Ditto

Nothing worse than getting under a car, and then finding out that you've got to go and get something.

Definitely not a Jiffy Lube job either!

Jiffy Lube, OMFG, you are right, only crazy people trust those bastards. I do my own oil changes and my own maintenance in all my cars. That way I know for sure it was done right.

When its time, I will replace the oil with Mobile One Syntetic Oil and K&N Oil Filter.

[Z_Monzter]

I like to do my own oil changes so that I know it's done right and so I can inspect the rest of the car. I feel I can do a better inspection than a dealer in most cases.

I changed my oil after the break in period. I doubt if the dealer will do that for you. While I try to change the oil on regular schedule, I often change it after periods of extreme driving conditions. The dealer won't do that for free.

I also decided to use Mobil 1. I can get a 5 qt bucket at WallyWorld for $21. Even if the dealer got Mobil 1 for you, they'd charge you an arm and leg for each qt.

This is definately not a Jiffy Lube job. But if your dealer will do it on terms that you are satisfied with, that's cool.


Amen for that Brother, I also buy my Mobil 1 @ WallyWorld.

(first) By the way, awersome write up, great info, thanks a lot. Now I know what to expect when is time for me to do it.

At what mileage did you just change yours???

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[Z_Monzter]

I did it at 600, which the end of the engine break in period. From there, I'll go on a 6 month schedule. I'll do it again just before the weather gets cold and in early spring before the weather turns hot. Those are also the times I do major inspections on the cars too. Take out the spare and inspect it, take out the jack, test it and lube it, pull off each tire and check brakes and suspension, lube doors hoods and hatches, go over everything under the hood, light checks, lube seats, and go over just about everything. It takes all day and I always finish it with a very good wash detail job and a diet Michelob.


(shocked) WOW, that's what I am talking about!(omg)
That's a good car deserves to be taken care off.

[1Sleepy93]

I did it at 600, which the end of the engine break in period. From there, I'll go on a 6 month schedule. I'll do it again just before the weather gets cold and in early spring before the weather turns hot. Those are also the times I do major inspections on the cars too. Take out the spare and inspect it, take out the jack, test it and lube it, pull off each tire and check brakes and suspension, lube doors hoods and hatches, go over everything under the hood, light checks, lube seats, and go over just about everything. It takes all day and I always finish it with a very good wash detail job and a diet Michelob.

This is the kind of guy you would want to buy a used car from. (wow)

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[Z_Monzter]

Thanks Y'all, I work on airplanes for a living and have a deep appreciation for preventative maintenance


That explains everything, Preventive maintenance is a must in your career field.

Please keep posting write-ups, your information is very useful.
Thanks(first)

[Unit 91]

I also decided to use Mobil 1.

How many miles on the car? I never change to synthetic until 10k. Ever.

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[Unit 91]

I'm not saying it will be a bad thing. It's not automatic. I guess you could call me superstitious.

Likely you'll not have oil coke in the turbo because it's oil and water cooled. Even after you shut down the engine coolant is flowing a bit and keeping things cooler than not. Still, I always idle my car (usually too long, according to my wife) before I shut it off. Always have with a turbo, always will.

I'm hesitant to add a turbo time until I'm 100% certain I won't be having major issues with the car. Until then, I sit and stare or listen to the radio. Sweet.

[mixmasterlove]

I'm gonna wait till 3500 miles (3500 everytime after also), take it to the dealer, and use what the manual recommends; what do you guys think of that.

[mixmasterlove]

I'm gonna wait till 3500 miles (3500 everytime after also), take it to the dealer, and use what the manual recommends; what do you guys think of that?

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[mixmasterlove]

I pick up mine on Monday.

[5280_CX-7]

"It takes all day and I always finish it with a very good wash detail job and a diet Michelob."

DIET Michelob?!?!

Dude thats like putting Penzoil in your engine!! (notcool)

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[dj dlux]

I changed at the end of break in. aka 600 miles. I'm nearing 2000 now. I understand the theory of not changing until about 10k and I wont even try to dispute it. If I had bought a more mainstream car without a turbo, I would probably have waited much longer myself.

My theory at the time was to put a bigger focus on protecting the turbo from heat as well as protect from oil coking up in the turbo. Right or wrong, I gambled that the weakest link in the chain would be the turbo. I think that between my warm up and cool down procedures along with synthetic oil flow, I will put as many odds in my favor as I can in regards to the turbo lifespan.

With my theory comes faith in the engine. I know that they don't machine parts and build engines with the same tolerances and clearances as they did when I was a kid. I know the parts don't break in and seat the way they used to many years ago. The problem is that I don't know how they make them, I just know it's different than the old school method. My last 5 cars came with Mobil 1 from the factory.

It's a gamble I was willing to take and I have no regrets at this time.






My dealer handed me a service schedule card for the first oil change, which they said was due at 1500 miles. I've always thought the first should be done a bit earlier, especially with a turbo motor. I've always run synthetic in my cars, even in my 02 F-350 7.3L Diesel (picture the oil change bill for 15 quarts of synthetic diesel oil - ugh). So although i'll be bringing the car to the dealer for that change, and insisting on synthetic, i was wondering if anyone else had gotten the same recommendation as far as mileage before changing?
i only have 200miles on the car as of today, so...


thanks in advance - finding this forum is like wading in a stream and stubbing your toe on a chunky gold nugget!

[Otto]

Changed the oil on mine this weekend... the original writeup made things easierm thanks (thumb) Have a couple notes, one important one:

- the engine cover is easy to take off, all you need is a 10mm socket and a small flat screwdriver for the plastic pin. The oil drain plug is 17mm, the drain for the filer is a metric allen wrench (not sure what size).

- I bought a Valvoline #1 oil filter removal cap-type wrench, which seems to be the right fit but it kept slipping on the filter. I solved that by wedging a thin rubber mat between the filter and the wrench. Might order the wrench from Mazda to see of theirs is a better fit.

- Oil I used was Mobil1 Extended Performance Synthetic 5W-30. Supposed to last 15k miles but I wouldn't leave it in there more than 10. That said, such long oil change intervals are common in Europe on many cars - today's modern synthetic oils just last longer.

- IMPORTANT: The manual states that when changing both oil and filter, the capacity is 6 U.S. quarts. This is exactly what I put in, then drove the car for a bit, let it settle and checked the oil level. It was too high, way past the MAX mark!! After several more measurements, I decided to drain about half a quart (I'm guesstimating here) and now the level is right at the MAX mark.

Moral of the story: Put in 5 - 5.5 quarts, check oil level and add as necessary. Filling it with 6 quarts may lead to overfilling, which could potentially damage the engine.

Oh, and after removing the oil pan drain plug, the oil shoots out way farther than I expected (pissed) Make sure to cover a large area of the floor under the car (newspaper works well).

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[Otto]

Otto, mine was 6 quarts, exactly. Was your oil warm when you drained it? Was your car level when you drained it?

If the filter wrench slips, it's a hair too big. However, if you can make it work, good for you. Since the cap is plastic/bakelite/whatever, NEVER use one of those squeeze type band wrenches.
Yes, the car was warm and I let it drain for quite a while. The car wasn't level, the front wheels were up on a ramp so that may have possibly led to a bit of the oil not draining (although based on the position of the plug, it should drain completely). That might explain it, though.