Conversion from cartridge filter to screw on filter - Should I do it?

[Wuster]

A while back, I saw somewhere out there in cyber space, a link on converting the Mazda3's 2.3L cartridge filter to a screw on filter using a parts/adapter kit from the Mazda6 2.3L engine.

I drop my Mazda5 (which has the same 2.3L engine as the Mazda3) off at the dealership this morning for an oil change and they offered to make the conversion from cartridge to screw-on for “around $30”

Has anyone made this conversion and would like to share his/her experiences on how well it’s working (or not working)?

So I make this conversion? I figured that I can save a few bucks on filters down the road and probably make the oil change go faster. But the engineer in me is wondering about the degradation in oil filtering performance.

Thoughts?

[martman]

A while back, I saw somewhere out there in cyber space, a link on converting the Mazda3's 2.3L cartridge filter to a screw on filter using a parts/adapter kit from the Mazda6 2.3L engine.

I drop my Mazda5 (which has the same 2.3L engine as the Mazda3) off at the dealership this morning for an oil change and they offered to make the conversion from cartridge to screw-on for “around $30”

Has anyone made this conversion and would like to share his/her experiences on how well it’s working (or not working)?

So I make this conversion? I figured that I can save a few bucks on filters down the road and probably make the oil change go faster. But the engineer in me is wondering about the degradation in oil filtering performance.

Thoughts?

I may be wrong about this, but I have heard that the cartridge filter found on the MZR engine series actually filters/protects the engine better than the canister type filters found on most Honda and Toyota engines. If this were true, don't you think paying a little bit extra for the OEM Mazda filter be worth protecting your engine in the long run?

[Rocket]

they offered to make the conversion from cartridge to screw-on for “around $30”


You'll save $1.50 per filter, so it will take 20 oil changes to payoff. At 7,500 miles per change, that is 150,000 miles.

If it does not filter as well, you wont make it 150,000 miles.

Stick with what you've got.

[dommo_g]

The only reason for doing the conversion in the past, I've heard, what the cost and difficulty in getting the filters. This isn't a problem any longer, and the OEM filters from the dealer are not too much more than a normal filter at the parts store. I bought 4 when I went, and he gave them to me at a discount, cheaper than what a crappy Fram would've cost. And changing them isn't very difficult. You can get the big adapter for your ratchet, or you can get one of those rubber strap wrenches.

[Wuster]

I decided not to make the conversion.

The dealer "forgot" to mentioned that the '$30 bucks' was for labor only. The part itself was around $110. Which I call BS. Folks on the Mazda3 forum can get the same part for $40.

[bulwnkl]

IMPORTANT MESSAGE ABOUT THE CONVERSION:
The 2.3 MZR on the Mazda 5 has an oil cooler which routes coolant down to the filter cartridge housing. To remove that housing and change over to a screw-on filter will require disabling the oil cooler system, unless you find a spin-on head with a cooler built in. Having learned this fact, I personally will not even consider the swap.

Wuster: I know you already decided against the swap, so this post is not aimed at you in particular, but rather at anyone who is contemplating the swap.

[TheMAN]

no you won't
you only would if you followed the mazda3/6 how-tos which calls for a part that's WRONG for the 5

if you have searched you would've known that the 2005 tribute shit works because it also has an oil cooler

[TheMAN]

You'll save $1.50 per filter, so it will take 20 oil changes to payoff. At 7,500 miles per change, that is 150,000 miles.

If it does not filter as well, you wont make it 150,000 miles.

Stick with what you've got.

7500 miles is only for "normal" driving conditions... something which 99% of the people on this forum WON'T qualify for because they live in cities or drive their car "spiritedly" or in a harsh climate.... there are VERY specific things that are called for in "normal" driving conditions that are stated in the owner's manual which are more like ideals than anything else

so don't think just because you don't race your car, drive fast, don't drive your car "hard", etc means you're under "normal" conditions... its very misleading and its one of the major causes of poor vehicle maintenance in this country because people don't read their owner's manual carefully and/or are cheap asses thinking they can go longer without changing their oil

those "extended" intervals are there as a marketing ploy when people are car shopping... it's to exploit some of the car cheap ass car shoppers into buying a car thinking they don't have to do anything to it for 100000 miles when it's not necessarily true... what do they care after the salesmen makes their bucks? the service department can milk you dry when shit in your car breaks and they voided your warranty because you were too good to read the owner's manual carefully... or milk you anyway even if you've read the owner's manual and followed the "unique driving conditions" schedule.... do you seriously think they'd care about what the salesman told you about the magical 100000 mile thing or what you'd think of this deception? I think not

anyway, since a lot of you like the average american person won't read the manual anyway, I'll spare you the trouble... if you live in a city, don't even bother with the "normal" schedule, you'll fail to meet any of those conditions miserably... go with the "unique driving conditions" one to save you the trouble if you care about your car

[irloyal]

7500 miles is only for "normal" driving conditions... something which 99% of the people on this forum WON'T qualify for because they live in cities or drive their car "spiritedly" or in a harsh climate.... there are VERY specific things that are called for in "normal" driving conditions that are stated in the owner's manual which are more like ideals than anything else

Hey Man,
The general driving public has been duped into the "normal and harsh" driving modes. If you plan on keeping the car beyond the warranty period, go here:http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

A wealth of information regarding oils, air filters, oil testing, etc. I have my explorer on a 10K oil change interval using Mobil 1 and have never had a problem with oil breakdown or excessive wear. I test the oil every 50K miles. This all works out to about the same cost as changing the oil every 5 to 7 K, but I know what's up with my vehicle. BTW it has 179,000 on the ticker and runs just like the day I bought it.


so don't think just because you don't race your car, drive fast, don't drive your car "hard", etc means you're under "normal" conditions... its very misleading and its one of the major causes of poor vehicle maintenance in this country because people don't read their owner's manual carefully and/or are cheap asses thinking they can go longer without changing their oil

...snip...

go with the "unique driving conditions" one to save you the trouble if you care about your car

Words to live by if you are on a lease.

[bulwnkl]

Thanks for the Tribute information that DIDN'T show up when I searched, theman.

[TheMAN]

Hey Man,
The general driving public has been duped into the "normal and harsh" driving modes. If you plan on keeping the car beyond the warranty period, go here:http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

A wealth of information regarding oils, air filters, oil testing, etc. I have my explorer on a 10K oil change interval using Mobil 1 and have never had a problem with oil breakdown or excessive wear. I test the oil every 50K miles. This all works out to about the same cost as changing the oil every 5 to 7 K, but I know what's up with my vehicle. BTW it has 179,000 on the ticker and runs just like the day I bought it.


Words to live by if you are on a lease.

cheap fucking oil used by whatever oil change place is NOT the same as mobil1 or any decent oil for that matter... heat kills oil, short distance driving kills oil, and so does driving through a dust storm

WTF is wrong with changing oil every 3000 miles? it's cheap insurance and that shit gets recycled anyway... it's not like you're "polluting" more

I've seen oil at 7000 miles when someone followed the "normal" shit... and that shit is NASTY, enough said

[irloyal]

cheap fucking oil used by whatever oil change place is NOT the same as mobil1 or any decent oil for that matter... heat kills oil, short distance driving kills oil, and so does driving through a dust storm

WTF is wrong with changing oil every 3000 miles? it's cheap insurance and that shit gets recycled anyway... it's not like you're "polluting" more

I've seen oil at 7000 miles when someone followed the "normal" shit... and that shit is NASTY, enough said

So I guess ignorance is bliss..........(burnout)

[065]

IMPORTANT MESSAGE ABOUT THE CONVERSION:
The 2.3 MZR on the Mazda 5 has an oil cooler which routes coolant down to the filter cartridge housing. To remove that housing and change over to a screw-on filter will require disabling the oil cooler system, unless you find a spin-on head with a cooler built in. Having learned this fact, I personally will not even consider the swap.

Wuster: I know you already decided against the swap, so this post is not aimed at you in particular, but rather at anyone who is contemplating the swap.

Saw a thread on a Mazdaspeed6 (also with cooler) on this conversion.
The Ford Escape 2.3L (and probably Tribute) uses an oil cooler with a spin on filter. The part looks identical except that it's for a spin on filter. Pretty expensive though. I hate the cartrige filter, but it's really easy to do an oil change. Converted my 6i to a spin on, but I'll probably leave the 5 like it is.

[Ninty1GTiVR6]

synthetic oil is the way to go, most times even when you changed past the 5k mark, the oil is still clean. When people get synth oil and change every 3k, unless they use the car in traffic every day, in a dust storm, in the desert, it would be a waste of money. I put Mobil1 in my 1.8t(chipped, t/back) every 5k and the oil was sooo clean it was unbelievable. If you're worried about the 7.5k interval, next oil change get the 15k oil from Mobil1, they even have 10k and 20k oils. Your dime, your car, your call they way I look at it.

[TheMAN]

Saw a thread on a Mazdaspeed6 (also with cooler) on this conversion.
The Ford Escape 2.3L (and probably Tribute) uses an oil cooler with a spin on filter. The part looks identical except that it's for a spin on filter. Pretty expensive though. I hate the cartrige filter, but it's really easy to do an oil change. Converted my 6i to a spin on, but I'll probably leave the 5 like it is.

expensive? the part is only 35 bucks!

[065]

expensive? the part is only 35 bucks!
Didn't check. Sure that's for the oil cooler version? On the thread I saw it on they said it was like, I think $200 (my memory fails me, and to lazy to look for it), but like I said I never checked myself. May change mine over to spin on if it's that cheap!

[Wuster]

Didn't check. Sure that's for the oil cooler version? On the thread I saw it on they said it was like, I think $200 (my memory fails me, and to lazy to look for it), but like I said I never checked myself. May change mine over to spin on if it's that cheap!

That sounds right. The folks on the Mazda3 fourms are paying around $40 bucks for it.

My dealer wanted $110 for it.(pissed)

Another reason not to do it.

[TheMAN]

buy the parts and do it yourself, or have them install the shit for you

[Benfolio]

Get gasket part# LF01-14-342 for $5.85
Get filter body part# L311-14-311 for $35.80

Oh, and a spin on filter # LF10-14-302.

You don't have to worry about the cooler because it mounts to the top of the filter body (adapter), but the Tribute does use a different cooler than the MSP6, CX-7, and 5.

If you change your own oil, and don't want to worry about failed or torn o-rings, and don't care about your warranty, it's a easy mod.

[TheMAN]

the coolant does not have to be drained to do the conversion... just becareful around the seal that's under the oil cooler because it's NOT replacable

torque specs:
25.1-29.5 ft lbs for oil cooler to oil filter mount bolt
9-13 ft lbs for oil pressure switch
14.8-22.1 ft lbs for oil filter mount

[bulwnkl]

Thanks for the useful info, Benfolio.

I can't find any better filters for the spin-on number than the OEM cartridge, so I'm not changing over. I see that some folks have had trouble with o-rings, but I've had many, many, MANY applications with spin-on filters that use o-rings instead of flat gaskets and I've never had a problem (mainly hydraulic systems and engines on tractors, etc.).

The funny thing is that my experiences with this system seem to be so different from everyone else's. For example, this cartridge system is one of the messiest things I've EVER had to deal with, despite the drain plug in the canister. It's messier than any horizonal spin-ons I've had, and even messier than any of the spin-ons I've had that are mounted with their open ends poniting down. At the same time, I have absolutely no trouble with the o-rings. Perhaps my previous experience with o-rings in other things has helped me. Finally, if a person is concerned with the 1/3-second it takes for the oil pump to fill the tiny canister, I can't see a reason in the world why you can't pre-fill it just like you would a spin-on cartridge.

Okay, I'm done. Thanks for reading this (if you did).

[Benfolio]

Thanks for the useful info, Benfolio.

I can't find any better filters for the spin-on number than the OEM cartridge, so I'm not changing over. I see that some folks have had trouble with o-rings, but I've had many, many, MANY applications with spin-on filters that use o-rings instead of flat gaskets and I've never had a problem (mainly hydraulic systems and engines on tractors, etc.).

The funny thing is that my experiences with this system seem to be so different from everyone else's. For example, this cartridge system is one of the messiest things I've EVER had to deal with, despite the drain plug in the canister. It's messier than any horizonal spin-ons I've had, and even messier than any of the spin-ons I've had that are mounted with their open ends poniting down. At the same time, I have absolutely no trouble with the o-rings. Perhaps my previous experience with o-rings in other things has helped me. Finally, if a person is concerned with the 1/3-second it takes for the oil pump to fill the tiny canister, I can't see a reason in the world why you can't pre-fill it just like you would a spin-on cartridge.

Okay, I'm done. Thanks for reading this (if you did).

You want messy? Try changing the oil filter on an old FWD 2.5L "Iron Duke" 4cyl GM motor. There's a drain plug too, in the pan, but the filter is inside the pan hiding on top of a 6" round heavy chunk of threaded metal with a 24MM nut on it. Even if you CAN remove it (they tend to rust to the pan), and without making a mess, you're gonna get a bath when you try and pull the filter out of it's housing up inside the oil pan. Worst. Design . EVER.

[TheMAN]

Thanks for the useful info, Benfolio.

I can't find any better filters for the spin-on number than the OEM cartridge, so I'm not changing over. I see that some folks have had trouble with o-rings, but I've had many, many, MANY applications with spin-on filters that use o-rings instead of flat gaskets and I've never had a problem (mainly hydraulic systems and engines on tractors, etc.).

The funny thing is that my experiences with this system seem to be so different from everyone else's. For example, this cartridge system is one of the messiest things I've EVER had to deal with, despite the drain plug in the canister. It's messier than any horizonal spin-ons I've had, and even messier than any of the spin-ons I've had that are mounted with their open ends poniting down. At the same time, I have absolutely no trouble with the o-rings. Perhaps my previous experience with o-rings in other things has helped me. Finally, if a person is concerned with the 1/3-second it takes for the oil pump to fill the tiny canister, I can't see a reason in the world why you can't pre-fill it just like you would a spin-on cartridge.

Okay, I'm done. Thanks for reading this (if you did).

uhh, the mazda3, mazda6, tribute, escape, focus, ranger, b-series, etc all use the same spin-on filter... I seriously doubt there's not a "better" filter out there than the OEM one

[bulwnkl]

uhh, Exactly; they're all the same, so listing all the models out does not increase the number of OEM-replacement options, it just adds confusion to the question. There's already a Purolator PureOne available for the 5's cartridge for me and anyone else who thinks that's better than Mazda, no Amsoil EaO cartridge, and no EaO spin-on in the OEM size for the Tribute. Soo... like I said, there's nothing better than the cartridge system we already have, so I have zero reason to change.

[TheMAN]

the OEM filter is damn good enough, why waste money to get "better"?
the only reason to change this shit is because it's less messy to do oil changes plus its cheaper in the long run because there's less bullshit parts involved... plus there's less likelyhood of shit fucking up because you can't crack metal as easily as plastic ;)

"better filter" is not the reason people are converting

[bulwnkl]

I think I covered the 'reasons' you mention previously.

[narenji]

Get gasket part# LF01-14-342 for $5.85
Get filter body part# L311-14-311 for $35.80

Oh, and a spin on filter # LF10-14-302.

am i to assume that this is all ill need to convert to a spin on filter mount? what else is needed? thanks,
-naren.

[TheMAN]

RTV *grey* silicone sealant from the parts store in order to move the oil pressure switch over to the new part

[TheMAN]

FYI.... mazda is going to officially admit that the plastic cap in the cartridge oil filter housing is a piece of shit in the next month or so... they're currently building up stock of a new revised plastic cap which will have thicker walls in the plastic to reduce the tendency of cracking.... yes, the shit still cracks when you use the *proper* tool to R&R it! in fact, it happened yesterday at work!

so like I said... shit like this is more than enough reason to convert to the more reliable spin-on filter

[Rocket]

You guys are beating this up more than a trailer park whore. Let it go...

[narenji]

Get gasket part# LF01-14-342 for $5.85
Get filter body part# L311-14-311 for $35.80

Oh, and a spin on filter # LF10-14-302.

You don't have to worry about the cooler because it mounts to the top of the filter body (adapter), but the Tribute does use a different cooler than the MSP6, CX-7, and 5.

If you change your own oil, and don't want to worry about failed or torn o-rings, and don't care about your warranty, it's a easy mod.
the mazda dealer tells me that L311-14-311 is not a mazda part... he wanted to sell me the mazda3 filter housing, but that one doesnt have an oil cooler attached on top...

is this a ford part?

also the man says no coolant draining is necessary to do the conversion, but im guessing you have to remove the two coolant hoses going into the oil cooler right, isnt there any coolant in there? or does it only circulate if the motor is running?

[slvrsleeper]

A question for Benfolio and Theman both. I have got part # L301-14-311 but there is no provision to attach the oil cooler in my 5 to the top of it. Do I need a different part# for the filter body or is it OK to leave the oil cooler hanging in space?(uhm) BTW what is the part # for the Tribute, oil cooler equipped, spin-on filter mount?

[Benfolio]

Part number is L311-14-310 or 311. Both show up in Mazda's inventory for about $35.00, and that fits all Tributes with the 2.3L up to '08 even nd has the provision for the oil cooler on top.
The L301 you got is for a 2.0L Mazda 3, it will not work as that car has no cooler.

[slvrsleeper]

:D:D Dyslexia can be fnu, I mean nfu, hold on, ufn, ENJOYABLE! Onlinemazdaparts shows the Tribute specific part for 28.64 plus shipping. So we will try again, this time with the right part! Thanks Benfolio for the help.

[rodslinger]

You want messy? Try changing the oil filter on an old FWD 2.5L "Iron Duke" 4cyl GM motor. ....

Man I was just about to mention those things. They would make a HUGE mess. Those things were great for breaking in new oil techs. Whenever one would come in and we had a new tech we would hand him the impact wrench with the correct socket and let him go to town. It would spin that plug off and sling oil 20 feet. Best laugh you'd ever get.

[slvrsleeper]

I genuinely appreciate the fact that the Mazda doesn't have anything in the WAY of the stream of oil as it heads for the drain pan. My last car was an accursed VW Jetta w/ the 1.8T motor. That marvel of German engineering drained the oil right onto the wiring harness for the secondary air pump. Is it any wonder they threw emissions codes like chaff over Ploesti?