K&N Filter for the 5

[opus]

Has anybody tried to see if the K&N filter for the Mazda3 2.3 will work on the 5? The part number is 33-2293. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks.

[Medicman]

I would like to know as well !!

[dommo_g]

It's the same filter. Fram part number is the same, and the K&N part number is the same.

[Medicman]

Thanks.

[opus]

It's the same filter. Fram part number is the same, and the K&N part number is the same.

I have tried the K&N website, and they only show the typhoon cold air intake system for the Mazda5. I think it is funny on the Fram sight that when you search under air filters, it does not show any match, but when you look under general search it shows an air filter match. Might just take the factory filter up to Autozone and see if it matches the design and dimensions of the K&N that they have. Should make for an interesting project.

[WhitewaterPearl]

I have tried the K&N website, and they only show the typhoon cold air intake system for the Mazda5. I think it is funny on the Fram sight that when you search under air filters, it does not show any match, but when you look under general search it shows an air filter match. Might just take the factory filter up to Autozone and see if it matches the design and dimensions of the K&N that they have. Should make for an interesting project.

No need to do that. P/N: 33-2293 is the correct filter.

[dommo_g]

No need to do that. P/N: 33-2293 is the correct filter.
Yeah, no need to do that. Two people have already told you it's the same filter. You can verify on www.autozone.com if you want.

[mazdaFIVEmike]

Do the K+N filters really work as they claim? ie more horsepower...

If so, is it really noticeable? And is that the high performance model?

[irloyal]

Do the K+N filters really work as they claim? ie more horsepower...

If so, is it really noticeable? And is that the high performance model?

Try this link. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
It goes over cloth vs paper elements and allows you to make an informed decision.

[was98strat]

Try this link. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
It goes over cloth vs paper elements and allows you to make an informed decision.

After reading that article. I think I'll stick with the stock fiberous filters. The amount of particulate that the "high performancesfilters" passed was disappointing!!

But I guess there's not beating the physics of it. If you want to stop alot of dirt, the filter can't be really free-flowing!

[MD5]

Thanks for that link, it is very informative.

It reminds me of the throttle body/plenum tests I did on my 2003 Mustang GT for www.modulardepot.com It was a big PITA changing those out and dyno-ing the car. I'm glad I don't have to do that again.

Matt

[martman]

Do the K+N filters really work as they claim? ie more horsepower...

If so, is it really noticeable? And is that the high performance model?

Real world posts from various forums I am/was a member of indicates that you will 'feel' a modest gain from this minor mod. I personally have felt that with 4 cyl engines, installing a K&N filter robs the car of low end grunt (torque) but improves engine breathing in the upper RPM range (above 3000 rpm). I did find though (as well as other folks' observations) that the increased air being let into the engine results in better gas mileage.

So this is the trade off: better gas mileage (may be minimal) vs. losing a bit of low end power. It boils down to what your intentions are.

IMO, investing in a CAI might give you more performance for the buck. It will be a more involved install process, but the gains (more power and better fuel economy) may be worth it for you. I suggest too not to go with a SR as SR will only suck air from an already warm/hot engine bay which defeats the purpose of having a high performance filter in the first place.

[irloyal]

BITOG review of the filter is genuine hard data folks. Lots of annecdotal stuff out here on the web regarding "real world" and "seat of the pants" improvements are nothing but somebodies opinion.

If you really want to see a gain, you have to view the entire intake, combustion,exhaust as a system and modify it appropriately to get real results.

My advice (which along with $1 gets coffee at McDonalds) is if you REALLY want to get some extra HP/Torque gains, is to do an intake mod, get headers and a non-restrictive exhaust system, and get a reliable electronics mod to change the spark timing, O2 monitoring, and rev limiting in the electronics. Then you will need to do chassis dyno testing (before and after each mod) to really tell you if you are moving in the right direction. You also have to buy in to the fact that you'll need to get an oil analysis program going and get into more frequent oil changes. If you do it any other way, you risk a significantly reduced engine life. All IMHO of course.

[jandree22]

I did find though (as well as other folks' observations) that the increased air being let into the engine results in better gas mileage...
...IMO, investing in a CAI might give you more performance for the buck. It will be a more involved install process, but the gains (more power and better fuel economy) may be worth it for you.
I don't agree with this. While at first you'll be running slightly lean, it's my understanding that a car's engine will eventually "learn" the new air/fuel mixture and compensate back to spec by pumping in more gas, otherwise the engine would always be burning slightly lean... possibly causing damage over time. Therefore, anything that increases airflow should drop fuel economy. If I'm wrong with that reasoning, somebody please correct me.

Back on subject, just replacing the air filter to a K&N isn't worth it IMO... it's probably only good for a HP or two, which isn't really noticeable by the good 'ol butt dyno IMO. (moon)

[opus]

IMO, investing in a CAI might give you more performance for the buck. It will be a more involved install process, but the gains (more power and better fuel economy) may be worth it for you. I suggest too not to go with a SR as SR will only suck air from an already warm/hot engine bay which defeats the purpose of having a high performance filter in the first place.

I agree, but wouldn't the CAI void my warranty? I noticed substantially better high end breathing in my Saturn SW2 with the 1.9l twin-cam. No test data, just the old rump dyno readings to go on. I would happily put an aftermarket exhaust and intake on the vehicle, but I do not wan to void that precious warranty protection.

[MD5]

I don't agree with this. While at first you'll be running slightly lean, it's my understanding that a car's engine will eventually "learn" the new air/fuel mixture and compensate back to spec by pumping in more gas, otherwise the engine would always be burning slightly lean... possibly causing damage over time. Therefore, anything that increases airflow should drop fuel economy. If I'm wrong with that reasoning, somebody please correct me.
(moon)

A CAI won't make your car run lean. CAIs do make your car run worse, because it is taking in under hood air which is significantly higher than outside ambient air. It might take in MORE air, but it is HOTTER air. Why don't manufacturers make cars with CAI? This is why. The factory system takes in air that is NOT from under the hood.

Back to the lean statement. Your computer reads the incoming air and compensates for it. Period. The computer doesn't know where the air is coming from, nor does it care. It reads the stats and adjusts for it.

I had a 2003 Mustang GT, my first mod was full exhaust (ceramic polished headers, offroad X pipe, and Magnaflow catback. I dynod the car before and after and gained 19 RWHP and 23 RWTQ. Then I modded the intake (Accufab 75 MM throttle body and plenum and K&N style filter) and the results were significantly less than my exhaust (about 10 RWHP).

I've found that car manufacturers are pretty much squeeze every bit of HP practical that they can. I was able to get my car up to over 400 RWHP, but it took a Kenne Bell twin screw supercharger. I had it on for over 30k miles before I sold it, and it was still as strong as the day I installed the blower.

Matt

[jandree22]

Back to the lean statement. Your computer reads the incoming air and compensates for it. Period. The computer doesn't know where the air is coming from, nor does it care. It reads the stats and adjusts for it.
This was kind of my point. Even if you're some how taking in more air, the computer will compensate and start sucking more gas, too... consequently, in theory reducing the gas mileage.

[martman]

A CAI won't make your car run lean. CAIs do make your car run worse, because it is taking in under hood air which is significantly higher than outside ambient air. It might take in MORE air, but it is HOTTER air. Why don't manufacturers make cars with CAI? This is why. The factory system takes in air that is NOT from under the hood.

Matt

Uhhmmm I think you got your abbreviations mixed up, my friend. I am pretty sure you are referring to SR (Short Ram) intakes which is still the same cone style filter, but has a short tube leading to the thottle body intake. SRs as per my earlier statement is not something I would recommend as the nature of the short ram intake allows the intake to draw air from an inherently hot environment, your engine bay.

CAI (Cold Air Intake) as the name implies, draws cold air from outside the engine compartment. Usually, manufacturers like AEM, INJEN and SIMOTA, to name a few lead a pipe to the inner fender of cars where the filter will reside. Some manufacturers enclose the filter in a housing that also draws cold air from outside the engine bay.

So, your above argument really is incorrect, per the terminology you were using.

At the end of the day, aftermarket filters like K&N drop in filter may have minimal if not negligible benefits. As someone else had posted on here, to really get the performance gains, one might as well go all out and invest in a free flowing exhaust system, a less restrictive exhaust system, and tune the engine management system to optimize these mods.

While you're at it, you might as well mod the suspension with strut bars, lower the car, etc for better handling since your car is now that much quicker. But, that is for another thread.

Peace!

[MD5]

"CAI" has become synonymous with anything that has an open underhood filter.

You are correct that the best CAI has a housing, or puts the filter in the wheelwell, with a seperator to keep the hot engine air away from the intake.

The following is information from Kenne Bell:

LOCATION - When will the rest get this right? Never, never locate an exposed air filter in the engine compartment where the temperature can be 150° hotter (+10°=1%HP loss) and result in up to 50HP loss! We figured out a way to securely mount and protect it in the fenderwell where it's surrounded by cool air. And this is the only area large enough to accept the required 12" filter. The other major problem avoided with a fenderwell location is "fan wash" (fan air disrupting laminar air flow into the meter). Why do you think they put those little metal "shields" on the aftermarket MAF/"exposed" filters?

Matt

[mazdaFIVEmike]

Wow! Thanks for all the info guys. I didn't realize it was such a complicated matter. As I am not quite ready for a full exhaust mod - I think I'll stick with stock.

[dommo_g]

This was kind of my point. Even if you're some how taking in more air, the computer will compensate and start sucking more gas, too... consequently, in theory reducing the gas mileage.
Depending on the car, and how the ECU reacts to this situation, that may be true under full throttle conditions, but under normal, conservative driving, the easier the engine can pump the air, i.e., less restrictive intake and exhaust, the more efficient the engine can run. So if driving habits stay the same, a less restrictive intake and exhaust can improve fuel economy, and it can also reduce it by way of increased performance.

And the reason manufacturers don't use CAIs from the factory has nothing to do with whether or not they improve performance. Manufacturers for the most part don't design a car with performance as the priority when designing a car for the masses. Stock intakes on most any car is designed for low noise and emission reasons, while being able to pass the proper amount of air that the engine needs to run effectively.

[BastardMike]

Do the K+N filters really work as they claim? ie more horsepower...

If so, is it really noticeable? And is that the high performance model?

The horsepower is only raised with tthe cold air or short ram intake. +5hp. The air filter, 'Filtercharger' fits the oem specs beautifully. I put one in and in combo with Mobil 1 and some Bosch Plat +2 plugs I definately get more zoom zoom. Not hp, but some kick to the pedal/road ratio.

[irloyal]

The horsepower is only raised with tthe cold air or short ram intake. +5hp. The air filter, 'Filtercharger' fits the oem specs beautifully. I put one in and in combo with Mobil 1 and some Bosch Plat +2 plugs I definately get more zoom zoom. Not hp, but some kick to the pedal/road ratio.

Probably more noise than go.

[a10thunder]

I hate to bring the thread back from the dead, but Amazon is selling the K&N air filter for the Mazda 2.3L for $36.43 with free shipping. This is the cheapest price I've seen so far. K&N sells this filter on their website for $69.99 and Summit Racing sells it for $39.99 +$9 handling charge.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000CO9T60/ref=ord_cart_shr/104-3390702-3521549?%5Fencoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

I've used K&N filters before not so much for a performance gain but just for the low maintenance.

[smmra]

For those who are not aware - K&N air filter oil has a tendency to gum up throttle body sensors..........

[dommo_g]

For those who are not aware - K&N air filter oil has a tendency to gum up throttle body sensors..........
Source? Back it up with facts.

[the_saint]

While I was working at an undisclosed parts store we did see this. But we unprofesionally concluded that it was the result of dumbass end users who would over-oil the filters.

[antlind]

While I was working at an undisclosed parts store we did see this. But we unprofesionally concluded that it was the result of dumbass end users who would over-oil the filters.

You gotta love those dumb-ass end users.....Where would we be without them......We wouldn't anything to laugh at.
BTW, I purchased a Fujita CAI for the Mazda5 and haven't installed it yet. I read on another forum that some guys have had CEL issues when using CAIs on the 2.4L engine. Anybody out there in Mazda5-Land currently running a CAI, and have you experienced any pblms to-date?
Anthony

[monsta]

Therefore, anything that increases airflow should drop fuel economy. If I'm wrong with that reasoning, somebody please correct me.

Your thinking is correct with one caveat. If the increase in airflow is due to eliminating a flow restriction or reduces pumping losses you'll find that the enigne will not have to work as hard to injest the air in the first place. This can result in beter fuel economy for certain RPM ranges since the engine doesn't have to work as hard to make it's power.

A similar arguement would be to talk a brisk walk while breathing through a straw. Now take the same walk without the straw. Didn't have to work as hard the second time, right. :)

While it is true that most car's intakes are designed large enough to flow more than enough air at WOT (wide open throttle), some are choked a bit due to EPA noise regulations as well as packaging (ie space) in the engine compartment. I, personally, don't think the 5 suffers from either.

I would stick with the paper element. It flows more than enough air for that tiny little engine we got. :)

[dommo_g]

Pretty much what I said up there ^

Depending on the car, and how the ECU reacts to this situation, that may be true under full throttle conditions, but under normal, conservative driving, the easier the engine can pump the air, i.e., less restrictive intake and exhaust, the more efficient the engine can run. So if driving habits stay the same, a less restrictive intake and exhaust can improve fuel economy, and it can also reduce it by way of increased performance.

And the reason manufacturers don't use CAIs from the factory has nothing to do with whether or not they improve performance. Manufacturers for the most part don't design a car with performance as the priority when designing a car for the masses. Stock intakes on most any car is designed for low noise and emission reasons, while being able to pass the proper amount of air that the engine needs to run effectively.

[was98strat]

Pretty much what I said up there ^

If you look at the air filter tests on bobistheoilguy.com you might reconsider using an aftermarket filter. What you get in exchange for increased flow is les filtering, meaning more dirt gets past the filter and INTO the engine! I wasal set to "upgrade" to a K&N until I read that set of tests.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

[monsta]

Pretty much what I said up there ^

YUP! That's a fact, Jack! You said it first! :D

[geezerz99]

BTW, I purchased a Fujita CAI for the Mazda5 and haven't installed it yet. I read on another forum that some guys have had CEL issues when using CAIs on the 2.4L engine. Anybody out there in Mazda5-Land currently running a CAI, and have you experienced any pblms to-date?
Anthony

I am running with a fujita CAI since may. no CEL so far.