My car is down..again

[LinuxRacr]

Well, yesterday on my way home from work, I noticed my voltmeter giving me a low voltage warning, and hovering around 11 volts. The thought occured to me right away what was was happening. I must have broken my drive belt that goes to my altenator. I immediately shutdown the carputer, as to save some power. I was cruising along just fine, and then all of a sudden I notice that engine temp gauge needle was burried ABOVE "H". I pulled over immediately, and shut it down. What I had failed to realize was that my water pump was driven by the same belt. So I really overheated my engine. So after 3 years of running this built motor, it's not a thrown rod that has brought my MP3 down, but a mere drive belt. Dammage assessment coming soon. Thanks to Blakectx, Mental_MP3, and JDM Sam for helping me get my car off the interstate. Thanks also to my girlfriend for being there for me.

[ChiMSP]

Sucks some serious ass mang, good luck

[Kooldino]

Have you been running stock belts all this time? You gotta keep a closer eye on your stuff under the hood.

Hopefully there's no real damage to the motor.

BTW - Who's the new lady?

[LinuxRacr]

I would never reveal such info out here. I'm sure you understand. Yeah, the belts should have been taken better care of.

[LinuxRacr]

In case I didn't mention it, I need any help that can be offered. My pocket book aint what it used to be. If you have any leads on parts, or anything, let me know.

[AznXstazy]

is the car still ok? or is there something really bad? that sucks to hear man.

[LinuxRacr]

Well, the first thing we are going to do is replace the belts. After that, we will see if the compression is still fine. If not, it's headgasket time!

[laracroft]

We can always start a donation thread. I can give you $5. :D

I'm crossing my fingers for you man, so I hope all is well with your carrito. And congrats on your 'stand by your man' girlfriend. Two thumbs... way, way up.

[Bigg Tim]

www.onlinemazdaparts.com (http://www.onlinemazdaparts.com) They have good prices any anything over $100 is free shipping. I just placed an order, I can see if he will add a belt to it to keep some cost down for you.

Damn, I just checked and it shipped today, sorry dude. It's 15 bucks for a new one, 12 on his site.

[tekkie]

Patrick hopefully its just the belt man, it does not sound to serious so lets hope its not

[MP3Architect]

In case I didn't mention it, I need any help that can be offered. My pocket book aint what it used to be. If you have any leads on parts, or anything, let me know.
if you need parts from a dealer i have $170 in mazda gift certificates. i was wanting to sell them on here as i dont think i really need them but if you need something in that price range i could get it for you and charge you less for it. maybe save you like $20 or so. just a thought


although....what do you think may have gone wrong when you went into H? because actually this past weekend my car slammed into the H on the temp gauge and im still not sure what happened or if anything is wrong...im about to start a thread about it

[LinuxRacr]

It was my altenator/water pump belt breaking. If the water pump doesn't turn, then the water doesn't flow.

[Kansei]

Yeah that'll do it. Hopefully the new belt fixes everything. I'll never worry about my belts getting old because I replace things way before they need to be out of boredom.

[LinuxRacr]

Well today, I finally had time to go and change all the belts out except for the timing belt. Work has just had a grip on me. I checked the radiator, but it had no coolant in it. I will go refill tomorrow, and test it out. If it overheats, and the coolant ends up missing again, I know what I have to do. Head gasket replacement!

[LinuxRacr]

Car is up! I went by and started it, let it warm up, listened, checked, and did the coolant procedures. All is good. I haven't checked the compression yet, but all seems good! Went for a test drive, and the car ran fine.

[LinuxRacr]

The car is fine. Using Moeed's compression tester, we checked all 4 clinders. 150 across the board! Went for a drive. There seems to be a boost leak though. I need to find it. I mean there is a leak from the manifold where it doesn't mate up to the head flush, but other than that. God is good. I am posting this from the car.

[TheMAN]

yeah... you probably warped the manifold or the flange on the head... you might be able to get away with it by retorquing the manifold

[nealric]

How do you like linux for your carputer?

(Im assuming based on your name your running linux)

[LinuxRacr]

The exhaust leak has existed for a while actually. The manifold pulled the stud out of the head yet again. As for my carputer project, I am running XP for now. I have shamed my name... (sad2)

[LinuxRacr]

Ok, according to Moeed, we probably didn't do the test right. The cylinders are consistant though, but I neglected to do the test at WOT while cranking. It should be good if it's 150 with the throttle closed.

[TheMAN]

yes, fuck it, it's fine

[vindication]

hope all is good man. man has that car seen it's share of mishaps

[LinuxRacr]

The funny thing is that the compression tests read 150 with the throttle closed, on forged internals. The significance of this fact is that with forged internals, the piston has to expand to fill the bore when the car warms up, and the car wasn't warmed up. I am definitely good...

[LinuxRacr]

Well, my car is down yet again. This time the bearings in the turbo are shot. Last night, I was driving out to a meet, and I heard this stange whine, and I got a sudden, but gentle buck. I pulled over, to check out things under the hood. I noticed when ever I would turn the car off, there was this gurgle from under the hood, like something was boiling... I would find out what that sound was til today. There were no vaccum leaks that I could see. So I rolled home, and resolved to check the car out in the morning when it cooled off.

This morning I went and checked the turbo first, and BINGO! I spun the compressor wheel, and heard noise. I then checked the oil feed line. There is indeed oil getting to the turbo. The restrictor was NOT clogged, and oil was shooting out of the feed line when I turned car on. When I turned the car off that gurgling sound returned. I then watched the compressor blades spinning, and they have a direct relationship with the sounds. When the blades stopped, so did the sound. I'm screwed.

[k-lea]

i don't think it ever ends for you.

god has you turbo cursed, or something. yea..

[LinuxRacr]

If it's not the car, it's bullshit from my daughter's mom.

[k-lea]

If it's not the car, it's bullshit from my daughter's mom.
stories like yours make me scared to be turboed..


..and be in a relationship with an insane person.

[02PROTEGE2.0]

going back... u got lucky on the belt...

we did that wth my stepdads saab 95... drove it till we could pull it over safely... it started to steam a little...

turns out the whole crank pulley up and went... strange...

but none the less cost a couple G and then later we realized the head gasket was leaking oil bad...

so we traded it in and they didnt notice :)

then they called us a week later to let us know... haha... but it was too late... contracts were signed... oh well they still amde a killing off that car

[LinuxRacr]

Well, I'm going to need suggestions and options, and fast. If anyone can help, let me know.

[LinuxRacr]

Just talked to ATP Turbo. They tell me that for a new CHRA (Center Housing Rotating Assymbly), it will be $650 + $25 shipping = $675. I will keep looking for other options... At least I know this one.

[boostdprotegelx]

turbo off of ebay man...they aren't that bad.

[laracroft]

stories like yours make me scared to be turboed..


..and be in a relationship with an insane person.

Story of my life too. I think mine and Linux's car were made at the same exact factory. And everyone knows the deal with Ghost. lol

But my suggestion, go with a new turbo and check for other problems. The ball bearing turbo's are a b*tch to fix and they're expensive to get repaired. It's better off just buying a new one. You might be able to get away with a cheaper rebuilt one for less than what this guy will fix it for, but I'd just get a new one to be safe. Check for anything that also may have contributed to this thurbo's failure too while you're at it. You don't want to get a new turbo and have the same thing happen.

[mazdaspeed75]

Linux think about what we talked about , You could get my turbo setup and do a Nick upgrade man. Then my cars spirit would leave on . Anyway when you get back just let me know. Ill make the trip to the Big Dallas to bring it too you .,

[LinuxRacr]

I am weighing my options right now for bets price for what I get. I will let you know very soon (this week, if you haven't heard from me by the end, call me up!)

[LinuxRacr]

Once again, the return coming soon! As always, better than before! I LIKE POTATOES!!!

http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/74/IMG_1114.JPG

[altspace]

Disco Stu will rock your world!

[LinuxRacr]

POTATOES ROCK!!! (rockon) The return...wait for it......wait for it...

[Captain KRM P5]

good to see you are still plugging away patrick

[LinuxRacr]

Well, I took the GT28R turbo out today, and dropped the manifold off tonight to have it repaired. While I was there, I took off the internal wastegate (on the new GT28RS), and had the flapper shaft welded so that the the internal wastegate flap doesn't open anymore.

Pictures below of my old GT28R on the left vs. the GT28RS. I also know why my bearings failed. Oil got cooked!! Today's lesson = if you have a turbo with provisions for water lines, hook them up!!:

[low_psi]

Glad to see you found a replacement, sorry I couldn't help more. Give me a call if you need a hand putting the tater in.

[LinuxRacr]

Me too. Turbo has less than 2,000 miles on it.

[LinuxRacr]

Manifold repaired. I don't have the time or money to recoat it. The flange was also machned to be flat once again. Here are a few pics of the gastly manifold:

I only need water lines now, and I'm set.

[funktownp5]

Manifold repaired. I don't have the time or money to recoat it. The flange was also machned to be flat once again. Here are a few pics of the gastly manifold:

I only need water lines now, and I'm set.

Damn what happened to your manifold. If you need water lines for your turbo

call Stan at Fast-turbo.com, he should have water lines and fittings in

stock(tell him Albert told you). You can get a hold of him at 1-877-98TURBO if

you need them ASAP.

[LinuxRacr]

Where is Fast-turbo located? The manifold was stripped of it's jet-hot coating, so that it could be re-welded. That's why it looks so tore down. It won't be on my car for long probably though. I have plans for tubular cast.

[funktownp5]

Where is Fast-turbo located? The manifold was stripped of it's jet-hot coating. That's why it looks so tore down. It won't be on my car for long probably though. I have plans for tubular cast.

Its in Haslet, just north of Saginaw on 287. Give Stan a call tommorrow.

[LinuxRacr]

Thanks!

[Jeph]

Glad to see you're getting it up and running again. I sympathize with your problems. I had my fuel pump go out on me today, so ive gott aorder one in...

[LinuxRacr]

You have a thread detailing the symptoms you experienced when you fuel pump went out, so that others may learn (Cause I wanna learn)?

[LinuxRacr]

Assymbled again. Now I just have to re-tap the stud hole in the head that the threads got pulled out in, and put the assymbly in the car. Again, I am not going to a car show, it will just function now. So I don't want to hear about how ugly the manifold looks. I don't plan to have this manifold on too long.

[laracroft]

THAT MANIFOLD LOOKS LIKE HELL, YOU OUTTA BE ASHAMED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



jk :p Glad to hear it's nearly back up and running.

[NRRfrogmanP5]

haha there is always a critic in the crowd...nice job on gettin it running again

[LinuxRacr]

Here is a pic of the exhaust leaks the warped manifold caused:

[LinuxRacr]

Well, I just finished putting my car back together. All I need now is a new silicone coupler for my intake pipe to my compressor housing. The GT28RS has a bigger inlet. I will start her up tomorrow.

[LinuxRacr]

Ok, got the car started earlier, and it was running. It felt good. Then I saw little green drops falling under the car. It appears I have a coolant leak from somewhere around the water pump. WTF? (pissed)

[LinuxRacr]

See pictures below. Follow the wetness patterns that change with each picture angle. (nervous)

[LinuxRacr]

Looking at these pictures, the coolant is NOT coming from the head area, but from the thermostat housing:

[LinuxRacr]

The circled gasket is what I need it looks like. While I'm at it, I can put my JDM Mazdaspeed lower temp thermostat back in. The gasket is $5.70 + tax. No dealers stock it locally. :

[boostdprotegelx]

The circled gasket is what I need it looks like. While I'm at it, I can put my JDM Mazdaspeed lower temp thermostat back in:
what's the difference?

[Jeph]

My symptoms were pretty severe.
I couldn't hold a constant fuel pressure at idle.
I was bucking, spitting, and overall driveability went down the tube after the tune had been fine for months.

I know that it can be less severe, and not be able to provide enough fuel up top no matter how much you add. It would just feel like you hit a brick wall in the upper rpms when your pump can't keep up anymore.

[LinuxRacr]

My symptoms were pretty severe.
I couldn't hold a constant fuel pressure at idle.
I was bucking, spitting, and overall driveability went down the tube after the tune had been fine for months.

I know that it can be less severe, and not be able to provide enough fuel up top no matter how much you add. It would just feel like you hit a brick wall in the upper rpms when your pump can't keep up anymore.

I saw the thread finally.

[LinuxRacr]

what's the difference?

Here is a whole thread on that:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12753&highlight=Thermostat

[LinuxRacr]

The problem is worse than I thought. Can anyone find the problem in these pictures? I am screwed. (sad2):

[boostdprotegelx]

The problem is worse than I thought. Can anyone find the problem in these pictures? I am screwed. (sad2):
looks cracked to me.... am i correct?

[LinuxRacr]

Yep. Anyone know if I can get that re-welded?

[boostdprotegelx]

Yep. Anyone know if I can get that re-welded?
i really wouldn't see why you wouldn't be able to get it re-welded...it shouldn't be that big of a deal..except getting things out of the way in order to do it. or even taking the block out...that's a PITA.

[Titanium-99]

yeah it looks like you could re-weld it But how deep is the crack. Re-welding it only patches it on the outside surfice of the block. If the crack is all the way through the block wouldnt that cause you to burn coolant or possibly low compression?

I swear Pat it's cars like yours that keep me paranoid about mine!

[ELEmental59437]

Man I hope there isnt any unseen damage. That blows

[Jeph]

Ouch... That really really sucks

[Kansei]

oh sh*t.

... *stays naturally aspirated for a bit longer :P*

good luck getting everything back in working order.

[LinuxRacr]

Thanks. It's gonna take more than luck. Money is the problem, and this is my only car. Everyone is freaking out thinking it has something to do with boost. Remember folks, that a few of months ago my drive belt that drives the water pump came off, causing it to overheat? I think that is probably where this came from, but decided to show up now.

[Jeph]

Yeah, I don't think it came from boost, but from losing coolant flow for even that little bit.

[LinuxRacr]

A good friend *cough* gimpo *cough* of mine suggested JBWeld. Read this: http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

And see what you think. Anyone have experience wit JBWeld?

[gimpo2]

hahahaha *cough cough* i used it on my roor, its holding up pretty damn well. i'm sure its stronger than before it broke. i'll even let you use my left over tubes of it ;)

[Moeed]

Gimpo has gone mcguyver.

[gimpo2]

have you ever put jb weld on an engine to fix it......





























ON WEED??

[officerfarva]

I'm willing to bet that spot gets just shy of 500F.

[Jeph]

I guess JB weld could be a decent temporary fix til you can get a spare

[LinuxRacr]

After talking to a co-worker, I'm going to give it a try. He had used it to seal a crack in a cylinder wall that went all the way through without issue. It is worth a try. He just filled the hell out of the crack using a popsicle stick to make sure it was really jammed in the hole.

[Kansei]

Is your crack wide enough to be able to get a popsicle stick in there?? yikes

[boostdprotegelx]

start looking for a new block...shitty man.

[LinuxRacr]

Is your crack wide enough to be able to get a popsicle stick in there?? yikes

No, the popsicle stick would be used as a flat surface to push the epoxy into the crack. It is a small, hairline crack. Look at the pictures above. I am actually considering this stuff right here: QuikSteel (http://people.consolidated.net/cargochemical/prod_quicksteel.html)

[boostdprotegelx]

No, the popsicle stick would be used as a flat surface to push the epoxy into the crack. It is a small, hairline crack. Look at the pictures above. I am actually considering this stuff right here: QuikSteel (http://people.consolidated.net/cargochemical/prod_quicksteel.html)
"One square inch of QuikSteel can lift three cars."<~~find that hard to believe. but still try it out, if nothing better, JB weld the shit out of it.

[LinuxRacr]

"One square inch of QuikSteel can lift three cars."<~~find that hard to believe. but still try it out, if nothing better, JB weld the shit out of it.

Well, here are some other varieties. JACKPOT!! (http://www.derek.com.au/cargo.html)

[Kansei]

No, the popsicle stick would be used as a flat surface to push the epoxy into the crack. It is a small, hairline crack. Look at the pictures above. I am actually considering this stuff right here: QuikSteel (http://people.consolidated.net/cargochemical/prod_quicksteel.html)

oh ok I can visualize that, makes a lot more sense. Yeah from the pic it looked like a really tiny crack.

[boostdprotegelx]

Well, here are some other varieties. JACKPOT!! (http://www.derek.com.au/cargo.html)
there you go man. that works. there's one on there specifically for engine blocks. " seal up"..grab that stuff. better than the quick steel stuff.

[Jeph]

Yeah, the seal up looks promising

[boostdprotegelx]

post up pictures. let us know what the deal is. thanks.

[LinuxRacr]

I am looking for a local auto store that sells it. Anyway I can get a little help with my search, as my time is limited?

[TX Speed Demon]

Don't use the quick steel putty, use the epoxy. i used the putty on my old Taurus to try and seal a whole in the gas tank, I could never mix it right enough to get it to stick. It would stick for a little while, but when I put any pressure on it the whole piece would come off.

I ended up replacing it with JB Quick Weld later that day. That stuff heald up for months. I was even able to file it smooth on the outside of the tank without it breaking off. If it can take the temperatures I'd use that.

[LinuxRacr]

I'm actually probably going to go with the Seal-Up, and not the Quick Steel, since it is specially made for the applications for which I need it.

This discussion of JB Weld, and the cracked block has it's own thread now:

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2618358

<!--IBF.ATTACHMENT_811469-->Edit: I also read that how some of these fixes that you put into your coolant system internally could possibly clog up heater cores, pumps, and radiators if you don't follow the directions to the letter. I think that I am going to go with JB Weld on the outside first, and if that doesn't work, use the seal up or the K&W.

[LinuxRacr]

Read and be amused: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2620852#post2620852

[LinuxRacr]

I just finished putting my car back together again for the 2nd time this week. I am tired. Ended up using Thermostat Housing/Water Pump Permatex Gasket Maker. I will go pick up the new gasket from the dealer probably Friday (so I will have a backup), as there is only one in the metroplex right now.

[laracroft]

Dude, mucho props to you man. I'm not all that talented to custom make ANYTHING. Well... maybe if it involves playdoh...

[LinuxRacr]

She lives again!!! Last night, I put in coolant. Brian and Rashied showed up and helped me check for leaks. There were a couple from a hoseclamp not being tight enought, and the drain plug on the AWR Radiator wasn't tight enough. Fixed those. The car idles soooooo smooth now. No stalling, or RPM drops any longer!!!

[Kansei]

congrats!

[LinuxRacr]

All I need now are the water lines for the turbo. I am on the search.

[JDM Sam]

If you don't find them anywhere else I can order them.

[LinuxRacr]

I ordered the Banjo barbs from ATPturbo yesterday. Now all I need to do is buy some high-temp steel-braided teflon hose.

[JDM Sam]

well we can order that too.

[LinuxRacr]

Here are my new Hi-Temp Teflon Steel-Braided Lines. The lines are 3/8 inside diameter (ID). I ordered the Banjo Barbs from ATPTURBO (Banjo Fittings) (http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-004&Category_Code=BCS), and then went to Hose-Fast in Garland to have them make the lines by crimping in the barbs. The lines were $8 per foot. They also crimped some 3/8 in hose barbs at the ends so that I could connect rubber hoses to them, far away from the heat of the manifold. Hi-Temp teflon is overkill, but I still remember having to replace rubber lines on my old turbo kit periodically when they couldn't take the heat. Remember, the barbs have to be crimped on, if you don't want any leaks. You should be able to go to any hydraulic hose shop to get this done:

[JDM Sam]

Here are my new Hi-Temp Teflon Steel-Braided Lines. I ordered the Banjo Barbs from ATPTURBO (Banjo Fittings) (http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-004&Category_Code=BCS), and then went to Hose-Fast in Garland to have them make the lines:

looks good to me!

[LinuxRacr]

Here are some pictures of the install. I had to re-clock the turbo slightly to get the banjo bolt in on the backside:

[bazooka joe]

Here are some pictures of the install. I had to re-clock the turbo slightly to get the banjo bolt in on the backside:

good work, i gotta do this, where did you connect to the coolant system? is there a how to i can read? thanks man!

[LinuxRacr]

Get some 5/16 rubber fuel hose from AutoZone, because that is the size of the stock line (about 2 feet), so that you don't have to hack up your stock line. The pictures shose where I tapped in:

[Titanium-99]

so is the damn thing fixed yet?

[LinuxRacr]

Yes. Your die/tap set will be returned shortly.

[Titanium-99]

That's cool!

[808MP5]

Here are my new Hi-Temp Teflon Steel-Braided Lines. The lines are 3/8 inside diameter (ID). I ordered the Banjo Barbs from ATPTURBO (Banjo Fittings) (http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-004&Category_Code=BCS), and then went to Hose-Fast in Garland to have them make the lines by crimping in the barbs. The lines were $8 per foot. They also crimped some 3/8 in hose barbs at the ends so that I could connect rubber hoses to them, far away from the heat of the manifold. Hi-Temp teflon is overkill, but I still remember having to replace rubber lines on my old turbo kit periodically when they couldn't take the heat. Remember, the barbs have to be crimped on, if you don't want any leaks. You should be able to go to any hydraulic hose shop to get this done:

a bit lazy right now but how long are those hoses? or if anyone else in this thread know pls share :) I just ordered the fitting from ATP

[LinuxRacr]

I think they were at least 18 inches.

[CulRidr]

WTF? Replying to a 2 year old post? Fail! :P

[2.0t03speed]

lol it's his thread he can reply to it if he wants

[CulRidr]

I know, but I can still tease him about it :D