Bean's Beginner's Guide: Installing Rear Camber Links (No crossmember lowering!)

[thebeansoldier]

I've just finished installing my Mazdaspeed Camber Links (a bit disappointed the box didn't come with a decal). Started Friday night 4/21 and finished Saturday morning. I didn't want to push it before my alignment so after I did get it and, pushed it, for the first time I’ve heard a tire(s) squeal during an oversteer. Never heard that before, but I thought it was rather interesting, especially since I’m running with 225/40R18s.

UPDATE: I'm currently using 205/45R17 Potenzas and they rock compared to the ASX!

The rear now feels more “eager” to oversteer. The response is very good. If you wish to do the install yourself, like I did- take your time as much as possible. Took me at least 6 hours (taking a whole lot of pics, writing notes and timing how long it took to remove or take what), but I had lots of fun. You will too :) If you do get the MS Camber links, don't bother reading the instructions. It's only for a Mazda tech. You can also use this to install your SPC, or Eibach camber kits. The new links will look different but all come from the same company :)

* I'd like to thank sok07 for providing me torque specs on the camber bolts and for his overview pics.


NEEDED:
17mm deep and short socket
10mm ratcheting wrench [extremely important!]
Rachet wrench
Torque wrench
Jack(s)
Jack stands
Wheel chocks

OPTIONAL, BUT VERY HELPFUL:
Floor jack
17mm ratcheting wrench
Allen wrenches (5.5mm-7mm, optional but very helpful!)
2 long plastic zip ties
1 wire tie
Torx set [to remove the bracket off the auto leveling sensor]
3in extension

http://i3.tinypic.com/wcg4mo.jpg



RIGHT SIDE
I suggest doing the right side first. After you done, the left side should be cake :)

First we check out the right side’s camber:
http://i3.tinypic.com/wccu84.jpg


Raise the car and take out the wheel and find your first 17mm bolt:
http://i3.tinypic.com/wccxms.jpg


Then your second bolt:
http://i3.tinypic.com/wccyn6.jpg


Then the auto-leveling sensor (There’s a 10mm bolt that’s “hidden” that holds that sensor to the cross member):
http://i3.tinypic.com/wccz6g.jpg


Go under the car with your 10mm ratcheting wrench and spend about 30-40min taking out that stupid bolt.
Took me 1hr, taking pics and trying to find a faster way to get it out.
The ONLY way to get that out without lowering the cross member is to use the ratcheting wrench,
then your fingers (from both hands, I have small fingers and I can’t get in there with just one) to finish getting it out.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcd2fs.jpg


It’s a relatively long bolt (i think it's the same bolt as the one you took when removing the intake resonator).
Re-install it or find another way to hold that sensor there? ;)
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcd5hc.jpg


Push that damn sensor out of the way as far away from that camber bolt as possible. You will need all the room you can get.
It took me +20min to push it far enough to fit the 17mm socket and my wrench.
You get more room if you use the Torx driver to remove that bracket off the sensor.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcd7c2.jpg


Use a jack to raise the arm a little bit with a jack to reduce some tension [as I did here on the left side].
This will also help you align the new ones, but it was a little easier for me to align the holes while the arm wasn't raised.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wl7p78.jpg


Then start taking out the 2 bolts.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcdac7.jpg


Compare the links… make sure to orient the new one the same was as the old one
because it’s not stamped with IN. Basically the wider side is IN. Put in the new link.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcdb8p.jpg


Zip tie the two lines as they will get in the way of trying to align the holes.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wce72v.jpg


Put in the camber bolt to the part that’s IN, start threading it but don’t even come close to
tightening it because you’ll need that slack to help align the holes while you work with OUT.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcdeef.jpg


Aligning the holes is the “fun” part as it will take several tries to align the OUT bolt hole (took me almost an hour I think),
but make sure you’re wearing some type of breathing protection. I think I managed to breath in some brake dust,
and I know you wouldn’t want to do that. Use one of the allen wrenches to help you align the holes.
The bolt itself can do it, but it doesn’t have that “hook” you need to easily lift and push down on the camber link.
After aligning the holes, put in the OUT bolt and start tightening both of them at 75-80 ft-lbs.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcdzjn.jpg


I decided to use the 2 plastic zip-ties to tie down the sensor [running through the existing bolt hole of course]
to the cross member after giving up trying +20mins to put back the 10mm bolt.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wce3pc.jpg


Make sure everything’s tightened to spec, put back the wheel and tighten it to 85-90lbs/ft,
and lower the right side (or still keep them both up). But here’s what it looks like after you’re done.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wceao2.jpg
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcedlu.jpg


Done with the right side!!!
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcef5s.jpg


I accidentally dropped my lamp and broke the bulb (so I decided to finish the install the next morning).


================================================== =====================


LEFT SIDE


Now we start to work with the left side (much easier cause there's no sensor to get out of the way):
http://i3.tinypic.com/wceg44.jpg


Comparing the 2 links again... Remove the old bolts and install the new link the same way you did the right side.
If you forgot, take out the tie you used for the right side, and tie the two lines here too.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcffkn.jpg


My left side was actually trickier to than the right's install. This is why- look at how the link is situated.
It was very hard to align the holes and even harder to thread in the bolt on the OUT side.
While closely examining the bolt hole, I found out that the link was made by SPC, who also makes their own
and Eibach's camber link kit. Mine says "SPC" then "Lot 003" at the other end. You shouldn't have a problem with yours.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcej52.jpg


After about 3 hours of work JUST on the left side (i'm glad i waited till morning to do that side's install),
of mostly trying to align that hole on the and ruining my 5.5mm allen wrench, I finally finished.
I'm still in the process of removing that "Progress" decal's residue.
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcelw0.jpg


Check your work:
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcerzm.jpg


After my alignment (no difference really). It turns out the cambers were already spec'd at -1.1° at
the left and -1.0° at the right after my install. Now rear camber is -1.1°L -0.8°R. I could've saved $75!
Glad I did it though. It no longer pulls to the right... now it pulls to the left
(ughdance)
http://i3.tinypic.com/wcesub.jpg

Hope that helps :)

[goldwing2000]

Good write-up. Just a few points of contention, though:

It's not an auto-leveling sensor. The car doesn't have air suspension, what would it be leveling?

It's a carbon canister for storage of fuel vapor. The module attached to it is the purge solenoid.

Also, if you lift the vehicle from the center and support both sides by the body instead of the lower control arm, the hub assembly will flop around easily and will be much easier to align the outer bolt. No, the springs will not shoot out at you. The shock absorber keeps the lower arm in check. Just be sure to compress the spring before tightening the bolts in order to neutralize the bushing.

Also2, the reason you need to get it aligned afterwards is for rear toe, not rear camber. Camber is non-adjustable when using the factory or 'Speed links. Toe is what will cause the back end to feel loose and unsettled.

[thebeansoldier]

Good write-up. Just a few points of contention, though:

It's not an auto-leveling sensor. The car doesn't have air suspension, what would it be leveling?

It's a carbon canister for storage of fuel vapor. The module attached to it is the purge solenoid.


I could've sworn the ms instructions or the service manual called it an auto-leveling sensor. i will fix it.

[tsunami]

nice write up... really in a inner debate whether to get these or not...? should probably get my springs installed first... lol

[goldwing2000]

If you get the MS links, you'll definitely have to get springs first. If you get the adjustable links, you can get either one first. If you don't have springs, it doesn't make any sense to change the links, though.

[mario8402]

awesome write-up.. started at 2:30 finished at 4:15.. both sides!
i found a trick for the right side that is more cheating than trick, but it works.. i found that loosensing outside to get the bracket that holds the brake lines out of the way help w/ not cutting your arms up.. after doing that.. take the 3 torx screws out and push the sensor back, now grab the bracket and bend it down as far as you can... dont worry it will bend back easily, you will thank me.. bend it as far as u can down and now get your 10mm wrench OR ratchet wrench to get it out.. easier to break it loose which it isnt that tight at all and unscrew it with your fingers.. your arms will get cut the F up and u will be dirty as hell, but that part only took me 20 min.. I installed the eibach camber links btw.. going to get it aligned tomorrow so i will let u know how it turns out

[rbmazda3]

Who makes your rear sway bar and is that a GT Spec rear tie bar in there as well?

[rbmazda3]

Who makes your rear sway bar and is that a GT Spec rear tie bar in there as well?
Now that I think about it I bet the rear sway bar is Eibach given the red color.

[rbmazda3]

Now that I think about it I bet the rear sway bar is Eibach given the red color.
Wait a second...Eibach doesn't make sway bars for our cars.

[rbmazda3]

Who makes your rear sway bar and is that a GT Spec rear tie bar in there as well?
Ahh Hah! Racing Beat!! Do you have the front as well?

[silla3]

eibach does make sway bars for our cars its not on thier site yet you have to call them about it. i have seen them in one of the import mags before, and here on someones 3

[rbmazda3]

eibach does make sway bars for our cars its not on thier site yet you have to call them about it. i have seen them in one of the import mags before, and here on someones 3
I saw that after doing post research. I went to the Racing Beat website and ordered my rear bar today. It's frick'n beafy compared to the Progress rear bar. I've also got the Vibrant exhaust on the way.

Nice ride by the way! Looks familiar for some reason. (cool)

[rc_protege99]

hey guys! I'm just wondering if you can help me out.. I have a 99 protege 4dr and I need to replace the sway bars. What tools and parts do I need? Thanks.

[Kain]

lawl!

[RUMBLEFISH]

lawl!


Sometimes I can't even lol about comments or questions you see on forums. Its more like I get depressed at the complete stupidity of people and knowing that they are on the road scares me..

[RUMBLEFISH]

hey guys! I'm just wondering if you can help me out.. I have a 99 protege 4dr and I need to replace the sway bars. What tools and parts do I need? Thanks.

Dude it you need to know what tools you need do yourself a favor and go to a mechanic. You just might do something dumb like do it wrong and have your car come apart doing 70 on the highway and kill yourself of some family of 4 in a minivan going shopping and that would be a bad thing.

Start working on push lawnmowers then work your way up to self propelled ones. Before you know it you will be fixing little yard tractors then and only then start on the car. The entire country will thank you for not putting our lives in danger.(mj)

[fostersafb]

Ok, so I thought I'd bump this thread with an update. I just got finished installing some SPC camber links and was going to follow this how to until I got under the car and had a look myself.

I started with the right rear since everyone has been saying how hard it is with the purge solenoid in the way of the inner camber link bolt. I looked around, tried a couple different angles, then thought to myself that the bracket that holds the solenoid doesnt look too stiff and maybe I could bend it out of the way enough to access the bolt? Sure enough it bent toward the middle of the car leaving enough to fit a ratcheting 17mm wrench on the bolt and viola, it was out.

Installing the new link was just as easy and after torquing the inner bolt bent the bracket back to where it was and that was that. The right side took me about 30 minutes in total.

The left side was even easier. In total I spent about 15 minutes replacing the link.

I think the key element was touched on by goldwing2000. I did everything with the suspension unloaded, both sides on jackstands. The purge solenoid was in the way but is easily remedied.

So for those that have considered this and haven't done so because you didnt want to go through everything outlined in this how or the the other where the whole subframe had to be dropped, fear not, with the right tools and a little willingness to "bend the bracket" (Chevelle, anybody?) you can do the install in about an hour with ease.

Time for an alignment now.

[ericrapp]

I like where this is going. again love the forum because of this stuff

[fostersafb]

I like where this is going. again love the forum because of this stuff

Huh?? ^^

[ericrapp]

The information sharing, i like learning stuff! And its cool when folks help each other out. Thats what i meant to say.

[wolverine_man]

Sow how long does this install take, on average? Not too keen about using zip ties.